Surfer3 min readScience
Editor’s Note
I’m told that space is pretty big. Infinite, in fact. And in all that infinite space, there’s a whole lot of weird shit being discovered more or less all the time. In April of this year alone, scientists snapped the first-ever photograph of a black h
Surfer3 min read
And a Cartoonist Shall Lead Them
“Warrior’s Wake”, by Steve Barilotti SURFER Volume 33, Issue 1 It’s really hard to measure the impact of a single individual on our sprawling mass of a surfing culture. Yeah, Kelly Slater sold a million pairs of boardshorts and Tom Curren taught us w
Surfer1 min read
The Sphinkster
While young San Clemente surfer and shaper Nick Melanson has been making boards since he was 14, he’s still hungry to learn and was thrilled to get a master class with planing virtuoso Travis Reynolds recently on a trip in Northern Baja. The design t
Surfer4 min read
Surf Like Nobody’s Watching
We called him “Crazy Craig.” He was, or, presumably still is, a surfer in the Central California beach town where I surfed growing up. I don’t remember if his name actually was Craig, come to think of it. Maybe it was Carl. Might have just been a fun
Surfer3 min read
Cher Pendarvis, 68
With aging, surfing is even more precious. Every sparkling drop of water helps the stoke fire burn bright. Today, I mix it up more with swimming, bodysurfing, riding my surf mats and surfing my fishes and gliders. Also, just getting in the water, bei
Surfer14 min read
The Ghost of Waxed Windshields Past
“This is the road where locals would move cars,” said Leroy, as he crossed a winding, two-way street overlooking the ocean. Leroy, a second generation surfer at one of the most notoriously-localized spots in the U.S., told me about how, when he was y
Surfer9 min read
A SOFT Purgatory
“Beneath the rubble they lay hiding. Hideously disfigured and battling chronic drag-induced psychosis, they roam the underground trenches of this dystopian deep web of horizontal (and vertical) wave debauchery. Gathering in secret. Dragging abandoned
Surfer13 min read
Cold calling
I was standing in the middle of REI, turning a $45-dollar can of bear repellent in my hands, first taking note of the bloodthirsty antagonist from “The Revenant” depicted on the front before curiously looking at the ingredients on the back. The label
Surfer4 min read
Someplace like Home
You know that cheesy, old adage about home being where the heart is? Well, cheesy or not, every surfer who’s ever hit the road and found a wave perfectly suited to their approach knows that on some level that’s true. Although the surfy version of tha
Surfer24 min read
Surfboard Guide
Ex-pro snowboarder Colter Deupree breaks down his snowboard-inspired designs If you were to walk into the shaping bay of pro-snowboarder-turned-shaper Colter Deupree and pick up one of his boards, you might, just for a split second, believe you’re ho
Surfer6 min read
Accessory Guide
PRESENTED BY Special Advertising Section CAPTAINFIN.COM The Pack Mule Cinched Top Bag is a great all-around bag for your travel needs. We’ve included a wet/dry bag with a clamp roll top to keep your wet and dry goods separate. Keep your laptop safe a
Surfer3 min read
Editor’s Note
Shock and awe are feelings I’ve experienced in Hawaii many times before—usually due to the power of the waves, their proximity to the reef and how swells there are prone to doubling in size if you take your eyes off the horizon for even half a second
Surfer4 min read
Clueless to Ruthless
I simply could not believe it. This freaking guy. He’d barely scratch into a wave at the boil-ridden, sand-sucking point we were surfing before hilariously biffing the drop and getting pitched into the flats, board tombstoning. While he flailed aroun
Surfer3 min read
From The Streets To The Streets
Through the 1990s, there was indeed no slap on the North Shore feared more than that from Pipe commander Johnny Boy Gomes, the bruising power surfer who, at 5’9" and 200 pounds, was built like a bulldozer with a ferocious temper to match. He struck f
Surfer1 min read
The Kimbo Twin-Fin
“I’d been riding a lot of twin-fin eggs in smaller waves in the summer, but I wanted to make a bigger one for Blacks in the winter. So I was already planning on making an 8’0" round-tail egg, but before I did, my dog, Kimbo, passed away when I was ou
Surfer3 min read
Matt Hoy, 48
Just get out there and make a go of it. I was doing badly in amateur events as a teenager, but Luke Egan grabbed me and said, “Fuck that amateur stuff. Come have a go at the Tour.” I told my mom I was leaving school to try to make it as a pro. She fr
Surfer7 min read
Livin’enviably
“They let their surfing do the talking” has long been considered one of the highest compliments we, as a culture, can bestow upon a surfer. It implies a kind of humble disinterest in the spotlight of surf stardom, as if to say that how we ride waves
Surfer11 min read
The House That Pipe Built
If you’ve spent any time there at all, it may be difficult to imagine, but Pipeline wasn’t always the spotlight-illuminated headliner on surfing’s main stage: the North Shore of Oahu. Until the late ‘60s, that distinction belonged to the big, warbly
Surfer14 min read
No Manis An Island
poised to affect positive change along his home coastlines and beyond I WAS SITTING ON MY BOARD AT THE OPENING OF A RIVER MOUTH JUST OUTSIDE HILO, HAWAII, GETTING JOSTLED IN CLOUDY, BRACKISH WATER BY SIZEABLE SWELLS THAT HAD LOOKED MUCH MORE MANAGEAB
Surfer3 min read
Editor’s Note
I shaped a board once. Just once. I did it a few years ago, and, up until recently, I thought that was more than enough for this lifetime. It’s not that there was anything wrong with the board—a wide, thick, almost-rockerless, chop-tailed 5'5" quad t
Surfer2 min read
Proctor Surfboards Worldwide Custom
Shaper: Todd Proctor FACTORY / SHOWROOM LOCATION: 1920 GOODYEAR AVE. #A VENTURA, CA 93003 PHONE NUMBER: 805-658-7659 EMAIL ADDRESS: INFO@PROCTORSURF.COM WEBSITE: PROCTORSURF.COM BLOG: AMERICANSURFBOARDFACTORY.COM INSTAGRAM: @PROCTOR_SURFBOARDS DIMENS
Surfer4 min read
Master of Some
It was a fishing line that saved my life. A wisp of monofilament thread, just a hairsbreadth in width, nearly invisible to the naked eye, about as insubstantial as physical objects get. Nevertheless, it was strong enough. When I reached out and felt
Surfer3 min read
Two’s Company
There’s something about a twin-fin surfboard that just feels right. In the water as the rider draws a racy line or in the racks of your local surf shop just begging for a test-drive, twin-fins have a certain magnetism that perhaps no other fin config
Surfer12 min read
Handmade
“On day two I got some other tools, because the cheese grater wasn’t really cutting it,” deadpanned a dust-caked, purple-haired Andrew Doheny. He was describing his first handshaping experience—one that apparently involved various kitchen utensils—as
Surfer3 min read
Showcase Steve Sherman
About halfway through the recently-released HBO documentary “Momentum Generation”, a film by Jeff and Michael Zimbalist focusing on the New School crew’s swift rise to fame in the ‘90s, there’s a scene where Kelly Slater and Rob Machado recount their
Surfer3 min read
Editor’s Note
There’s an old saying about the band The Velvet Underground, which is that they didn’t sell many records, but everyone who bought one started a band. There’s some debate over who said it first, or if it’s actually just a misquote of Brian Eno, but ei
Surfer4 min read
There Goes My Hero
By JUSTIN HOUSMAN I grew up surfing in a place where it was pretty much standard to have the lineup all to yourself. Or, if you were lucky, you might have a couple of friends to trade waves with. (This was in California, by the way—South of San Franc
Surfer10 min read
The Descendent
Interview by TODD PRODANOVICH “The world is so fucking weird right now,” Noa Deane tells me over the phone from Australia, where he’s slept in past our original interview time, but is ready to wax philosophical now that the coffee is kicking in. He’s
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