INTRODUCTION

Anglo French Textiles (AFT) is one of the leading

composite textiles mills in South India. It was established in the year 1898 in collaboration with the British government and the French government. Today it is the flagship industry at Pondicherry, employing around 3000 workmen and staff.

There are three branches of the mill

A Unit

Comprising of spinning, sizing, weaving, processing and packing - started in 1898. Area = 25.40 acres B Unit Comprising of modern Automatic looms and Grey inspection warehouse started in 1970. Area = 11.98 acres C Unit Comprising of spinning and wider width shuttle less looms started in 1988. Area = 13.22 acres

LOOMS
TYPE OF LOOMS Non-Automatic Plain/Drill Automatic Howa Heavy Duty Picanol Picanol Dobby Ruti 'C' Type Projectile LOOM WIDTH 40" to 84" 44" to 60" 48" to 111" 48" to 79" 71" to 110" 130" to 154"

SPINNING

BALE COTTON WEIGHING TESTING MIXING BLOW ROOM (LAP) CARDING (CARDED SLIVER) DRAWING-I PASSAGE (BREAKER) DRAWING-II PASSAGE (FINI SHER) (DRAWING SLIVER) SPEED FRAME (ROVING) RING YARN IN COPS CONE WINDING (WARP AND WEFT)

PROCESSES IN BLOWROOM
1. Bale Breaking 2. Super cotton cleaner 3. Porcupine beating 4. Cotton opener (vertical beater) 5. Dust chamber with grid bars 6. Double opener (two bladed beaters) BALE BEAKER: 2 MACHINES

(3 persons per shift of 8 hrs) PRODUCTION RATE: 2200 kg/3men/8hrs MACHINE MAKE: Platt. Bros and co.ltd

CARDING
During this process a web is formed which is converted into

carded SLIVER which is rolled onto a spring placed in a can. MACHINE MAKE: Platt Bros. and co. ltd. (A unit) SPEED: semi low speed NUMBER OF MACHINES: 45 CAN CAPACITY: 16kg MACHINE MAKE: Lakshmi graf (C unit). SPEED: 22 rpm (semi high speed) NUMBER OF MACHINES: 16

DRAW FRAME
The parallelization of fibers and the blend of several SLIVERS into one

obtaining a uniform SLIVER where the output is combed SLIVER. MACHINE MAKE: platt Bros. and co. ltd.(A unit) SPEED: semi low speed NUMBER OF MACHINES: 45 CAN CAPACITY: 16kg

SPEED FRAME
In this process the thickness of the fibre is reduced to thin strands

called bobbins and the length is increased in the drafting zone with relatively high speed. A light twist is imparted to the fibres and compact packing is done in the form of bobbins producing 120 bobbins per machine. 8Lakshmi L F 1400 A, 4 platt bros. &co.england& 1 lakshmi reiter machines are involved in this process.

RING FRAME
The roving, on bobbin, is placed in the speed frame where

it passes through three types of roller called top roller, middle roller and front roller running at successively higher rates of speed and is finally drawn out to yarn of desired thickness. This is the final stage where 3 types of machines are used. 14 machines of Platt bros. and co. ltd. With 400 spindle per machine (A unit). 9 machines of Lakshmi Reiter with 432 spindle per machine.(C unit). 20 machines of NMM with 400 spindles per machine.

PREPARATORY TO WEAVING
CONE WINDING (WARP CONES)

WARPING (WARPER'S BEAM) SIZING (WEAVERS BEAM)

DRAWING-IN (DRAW BEAM)

WARP LOOMS GREY CLOTH

WARPING
In warping 400-500 cones are kept in creel and are drawn to a

cylindrical drum called weaver beam and length of 6000-20,000 yards of yarn is rolled and then send for sizing. Warping is done according to the number of ends. MACHINE MAKE: Allen ,Kaluamoto NUMBER OF MACHINES: 4

SIZING
To apply (size) starch, gum etc to the warp sheet or warp yarn to increase the strength of warp yarn to withstand the strain during weaving on the loom. It is applied on the surface of the warp with the help of high temperature and pressure. CHEMICALS USED FOR SIZING WATER CAUSTIC SODA FABROOF MAIZE WELTEC PLASTOSIZE PAP SOAP RAN XL(C) R BIND (PS2) BINDER (PA 505) P.V.A (for polyesters)

WEAVING PROCESSES
SHADING

Raising of specific yarn by the means of the heddle frame

PICKING

Insertion of the filling or weft yarn

BEAT UP

Reed pushing the filling yarn Close, against the woven fabric.

PRINTING
ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING Rotary screen-printing machine is an improved version of printing the main advantage of these machines is more amount of cloth can be printed in less time. PREPARATION OF ROTARY SCREEN Rotary screen is made of nickel-perforated screen. This screen is heat set on curling chamber at 160C for about one hour.
DIMENSIONS OF ROTARY SCREEN
Circumference = 642 mm Length = 1750mm, 2530mm, 2590mm, 2650mm.

PRINTING
FLAT BED SCREEN PRINTING MATERIALS AND CHEMICALS REQUIRED FOR FLAT BED SCREEN PRINTING Metal screen (of size 48x80) Nylon bloating cloth (monofilament 140, 120, 100 mesh) poly vinyl alcohol (PVA) ammonium bi chromate cello coat adhesive kerosene(thickener) titanium di oxide or white poster color(used as optical brightener) doctor blade for coating the screen stretching machine used for making the screens at proper tension exposing machine used to expose designs on the screens lacquer with drawing machine is used to withdraw the unwanted lacquer from the screen screen drier machine to dry the screen

DYEING
DYEING OF COTTON FABRICS WITH VAT DYES JIGGER

MATERIAL NEUTRALIZED WITH CH3COOH PAD THE MATERIAL WITH VAT DYE IN PADDING TRANSFER THE MATERIAL FROM PM TO JIGGER 20-25 LITRES DYE SOLUTION IS TAKEN TO JIGGER ADD 10-15 LITRES NAOH AT R.TEMP. ADD 1 KGS HYDROSE AT 50-70C IN 2 INSTALLMENTS WORK THE MATERIAL FOR TWO ROUNDS OXIDATION SOAPING COLD WASH

FINISHING
Depending on the end use, the various finishes like stiff and soft

finishing are given to the fabric.

STIFF FINISHING The chemicals used are either anilose starch or polyvinyl acetate or poly vinyl alcohol. There four stenters used namely, famatex, narrow width artos and two wide width artos. For the dyed fabrics stiff finishing is given with the help of only anilose starch. SOFT FINISHING The chemicals used are aminose silicon or poly ethylene emulsion and the machines used are famatex and wide width artos. PRODUCTION RATE: 15000 metres/8 hours SPEED: 30 40 meters/min

QUALITY ASSURANCE
Weighing - machine make: ADVENTURER
Strength of yarn - machine make: EUREKA Variation of yarn Unevenness percentage to find the unevenness of

SLIVER, roving and yarn. The machine used is evenness tester and machine make is: ET 2000s PLUS Thin and thick places Neps (white particles)

Thank you