What is Quality

Exceeding Customers satisfaction

Definition
Websters Dictionary that which belongs to something and makes or helps to make it is; characteristic element; any character or characteristics which may make an object good or bad; the degree of excellence which a thing possesses. Accrding to Websters II ---- Quality is essential character: nature, an ingredient, or distinguishing attribute: property, a character trait, superiority of kind, degree of grade or excellence.
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Different opinion------------opinion------------ The Best money can buy ( value for money) Meeting a specification or conformance to specification Craftsmanship The degree of excellence that an item possesses No more than 1% defective lot Anything Japanese or German
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Quality can also mean meeting or exceeding customer expectations all the time. John Rabbit the ability to exceed a customers expectations while maintaining a cost competitive market position

Quality is described as the total of characteristics that help develop the overall object or service

Quality from different perspectives

Product Based User Based Manufacturing based Value Based Perspective

Dimensions of Quality
Performance Features Reliability Conformance meets standards and specification Durability Serviceability Aesthetics Perceived quality
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Factors influencing consumers perception of quality

Price Technology Psychology Time Orientation Contractual Ethical

Importance Of Quality
Greater market share Higher earnings Loyal Customers Higher Growth rate Premium Price Highly motivated employees
Read Managing quality in Apparel Industry Mehta & Bhardwaj, Chap 1

Terms & Definitions

ASQ American Society for Quality Quality Management Quality System Quality Plan Quality Policy Quality Assurance Quality Control Statistical Quality Control Inspection Testing
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Inspection

Review of materials, partially finished or finished materials in relation to some standards, specification, or requirements

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Inspection Loop
Inspection Detection of Defect

Correction of defects

Feed Back

Determination of Causes
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Factors to consider while inspecting fabric

Fabric Fault Fabric Width Roll Length

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Fabric Inspection Machine

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Features in a Inspection Machine

INSPECTION MACHINES: Automatic edge alignment system Simple tension adjustment Cradle feed and rewind system Available counter in yard or meter Top and bottom illumination Maximum 83" (210 cm) in width Motor reversing switch to handle fabric which is rolled side in or side out

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Fabric Inspection System

1. 4-Point system (AAMA point grading system) 2. 10-Point system 3. Graniteville 78 system 4. Dallas system 5. Textile Distributors Institute system 6. 4-Point system revised
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4- Point system
Fabric Flaws or defects are assigned point values based on the following Length of defect in the fabric, either length or widthwise
Assigns penalty points to each defect
Upto 3 inches ----------------------- 1 Over 3 inches upto 6 inches ------- 2 Over 6 inches upto 9 inches ------- 3 Over 9 inches---------------- ------- 4 Holes and openings upto 1 inch ---- 2 Holes and openings over 1 inch ---- 4 100 Sq yard less than 40 defects - accepted

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4 Point system

of

ASTM D5430

Establish whether the fabric roll is acceptable not Fabric Roll 120 yards long and 48 inches in width has defects in the following dimensions 2 Defects upto 3 5 defects over 3 upto 6 1 defect over 6 upto 9 1defect over 9
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10 Point system ( 1955)

This system assigns penalty points to each defects depending on its length.

This points per defect length varies for warp and filling yarn

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In 10 points system a piece is graded a first if the points do not exceeds the total yardage of the piece. This piece does not allow for various width being inspected

Warp Defects 10 -36 5 10 1 5 Upto 1

Penalty 10 points 5 points 3 points 1 point

Filling Yarn Full width 5 to half the width of the goods 1 5 inches up to 1

Penalty 10 points 5 points 3 points 1 point

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Dallas system
Published in 1971, approved by Dallas Apparel Manufacturers Association. Determines whether apiece of knitted fabric is to be classified first quality or second This system defines second as more than one defect per ten linear yards

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Fabric Defects
Read the given material and discuss in the next class

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Inspection Procedure
Determine the amount to Inspect Select the roll to inspect Put the roll in the inspection machine or other viewing device

Inspect the fabric for visual defect

Check Fabric for Skewed, biased and bowed fabric

Predetermine the width tolerance you will allow Eg: width 45 -50 tolerance is 1 width 50 -60 tolerance is 1

Record the defects in the report 23

Fabric Inspection Report

Refer to MS word sheet

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Selection of Inspector
A good overall working knowledge Experience in more than one production operation is suitable Personal traits such as co-operative attitude, assertive, courage, poise, organized etc Ability to understand and identify fault or defect
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Quality Inspection of Sewing Thread

Construction Yarn count, Yarn ply, Twist Balance, Yarn strength, Yarn Elongation Sewability free from slubs, knots etc Finish Color Package Density Winding Yardage
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Quality Inspection for Zippers

Dimensions Top and Bottom Stop Zipper tape color Washability, Drycleaning ability Puller strength Slider should ride freely over the teeth Slider locks Care should be taken during processing of zippers Ratcheting Sewing Defect too close to the teeth Hump Popping opening at one spot Bartack
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Quality Inspection During Spreading

Marker Placement Shade Sorting Splice Marks Marker quality Ply allignment Spreading Direction Spread Tension Pattern Count Mitering Grain Line Line Defination Seam Allowances Notch Marks and Drills

REFER cHART

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Quality Inspection IN Cutting

Check for
Miscut Failure of the cutter to spilt the line Tolerance - +/_ 1/16 inches Matching of Plies check the top with the bottom ply, compare with hard pattern. Tolenrance - +/- 1/8 inches Ragged Cutting Notches Match the position with hard pattern. Tolerance +/- 1/8 inches Pattern Check
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Sewing Defects
Needle Damage Feed Damage Skipped Stitch Broken stitch Seam grin Seam pucker Pleated Seams Wrong SPI Staggered Stitch Unbalanced Stitch Oil Spots Open Seam Conspicuous seam repair Conspicuous pleat Wavy Stitch Fraying of material Runoff stitch Improper Thread Mismatch Thread Color Seam Closure Uneven (1/8 inch) Shirring not evenly distributed Binding Splice Unbalanced Collar Fullness or Tightness in the collar Varying Sleeve Length Fullness or Tightness in the Cuff Crooked Pocket or Dart Pocket placement, Dart Length Exposed Drill Holes
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Sewing Defects Contd Pocket Flaps not centered Flaps shorter in width Crooked belt loop Tight loops Missing loops Exposed Zipper tape when fly is closed Unbalanced Inseam measurements Insecure Bottom stop in Zipper Faulty slider or stop Impaired Zipper operation Defective Button Button Hole not completely cut Missing button or button hole Not secured button Low or HighSPI IN Button hole
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Sewing Defects Contd Fusing De lamination or Bubbling Discoloration of fabric Strike through or strike back Sleeve Setting Sleeve Reversed Snap Fasteners Defective or damaged snap Snaps not aligned causing noticeable bulge Missing Snap Extra Snap Distance between two snap

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Sewing Defects Contd Pressing Wrinkled Appearance Burned or Scorched Dirt Mark Ironing mark, sheen Trimming Untrimmed Garment Plymark Tickets/ Defect stikers

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Printing Defects
Improper Print Placement Over lapping of colors Improper coverage Odor Paint Splatter or Paint Spots Sticky Feeling Bleeding Burns Logos / Spelling Pin holes Bleed Through Cracking of Ink or paint Tacky or Sticky printed surface

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Embroidery Defect
Backing not removed Applique basting Logo mispalced Wrong thread color Applique not caught Bobbin thread showing Needle cut Stitch density Coverage Untrimmed thread Hoop ring impression Fabric Puckering Improper placement Marking Improper digitized embroidery
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How much to Inspect????????

No: of Inspectors should be decided by the volume of garments produced Level Quality projected for the final audit one inspector to every 30 operator All operator to be audited minimum twice a day
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Sampling Plan

statistically calculated number of sample items to inspect and the number of defects allowed

Skip Bundle Sampling

n= number of sample to be inspected from the bundle c = acceptance number or number of defective pieces allowed in n samples s = Skip Interval m = clearance Interval n= 12, c = 0, s = 4, m = 2 n = 30, c = 1, s = 4, m = 2

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JC Penney Inline inspection sampling Plan

Units in Bundle Upto 180

Units to be inspected 7

Defective units allowed 0

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Final Inspection
No Inspection 100% Inspection Spot Checking Arbitrary Sampling 10% Sampling Statistical Sampling

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Terminologies
Sample A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn from a lot or batch. The number of unit of a product is the sample size Lot or Batch collection of units of a product from which a sample is to be drawn and inspected to determine conformance with the acceptability criteria. Percent Defective = NO: of defective units/ no: of Inspected unit *100 Process average is the average per cent defective of a product submitted by the supplier for original Inspection AQL Acceptable Quality Level is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average.( 2.5. 4.0, 6.5, 10.0) 40

Statistical Auditing
When a sample lot is inspected from a lot of merchandise ( if the unit selected are true representation of the whole) the sample will give one a accurate projection of the true condition of the lot.

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Lot or Batch size

Sample size 2.5 Ac Re 1 1 1 1 2 2 3 4 6 8 11 15 Ac 0 0 0 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 21

Acceptable Quality level 4.0 Re 1 1 1 2 2 3 4 6 8 11 15 22 Ac 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 21 21 6.5 Re 1 1 1 2 3 4 6 8 11 15 22 22 Ac 1 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 21 21 21 10.0 Re 2 2 2 3 4 6 8 11 15 22 22 22

2 TO 8 9 TO 15 16 TO 25 26 TO 50 51 TO 90 91 TO 150 151 TO 280 281 TO 500 501 TO 1200 1201 T0 3200 3201 TO 10000 10001 TO 35000

2 3 5 8 13 20 32 50 80 125 200 315

0 0 0 0 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 14

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Table 2. AQL Sampling Table based on the Mil-STD-105D

Acceptable Quality Levels for Normal Inspection (% defective) Lot Size/ Sample Size .01 .015 .025 .04 .065 .10 .15 .25 .40 .65 1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0

Lot Acceptance (Ac) Number (maximum number of rejects to accept the lot) LS=2 to 8 SS=2 LS=9 to 15 SS=3 LS=16 to 25 SS=5 LS=26 to 50 SS=8 LS=51 to 90 SS=13 91 to 150 SS=20 151 to 280 SS=32 281 to 500 SS=50 501 to 1200 SS=80 1201 to 3.2K SS=125 3201 to 10K SS=200 10001-35K SS=315 35001-150K SS=500 150001-500K SS=800 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 2 3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 10 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 21 0 0 0 1 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 21 21 0 0 0 1 1 2 3 4 7 10 14 21 -

.01

.015

.025

.04

.065

.10

.15

.25

.40

.65

1.0

1.5

2.5

4.0

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Application AQL across the color

Production Lot
Color 8 Red 85 Blue 42 Black 42 Sizes 10 12 14 16 40 20 20 500 250 250 Total

Random Sampling
Color Sizes 8 Red Blue Black Total 3 1 1 5 10 4 2 2 8 12 5 3 3 11 14 3 1 1 5 16 1 1 1 3 16 8 8 32 Total

125 165 85 63 83 42 63 83 42

Total

169

251

331

169 80

1000

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