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Sewing Machine

Fundamentals

Prepared by;
M.Salman
A basic sewing machine consists of the fundamental parts required to
form a stitch , sew a seam or stitching or to perform a particular sewing
operation.

• The major components of a basic sewing machine include;

1. The casting

2. Lubrication system

3. Stitch forming system

4. Feeding system

The speed at which a machine can operate depends on the engineering of


machine’ components
The casting
The machine casting is the metal form that provides the exterior
shape to the machine. Shapes of machine can vary according to the
type of bed and the sewing function that is to be performed and
how piece goods are to be prepared. The casting houses the
internal workings such as the gears, shafts, cams that operate the
sewing and feeding mechanism
The casting determines the bed type and location of the cloth plate.

Lubrication System
lubrication factors are the prime factors in maintenance,
downtime, efficient operations and long life time of various parts of
the machine. The mechanical parts of sewing machine like any
other mechanical parts are need to be lubricated (oiled) to reduce
friction and keep mechanical parts moving freely.
High speed and temperature increase the need for lubrication
because of increased friction.
There are two types of lubrication systems available.
Manual
Automatic
In the former case oiling is done manually. In these machines no
special mechanism for oiling is present. These machines are also
called as dry head machines. The conventional sewing machine at
homes is also an example in which manually oiling is done.
In automatic oiling systems different parts work in combination with
each other to ensure the effective supply of oil to the required parts
like.
• Oil Pump
• Wick
• Felt
• Oil Gauge and oil sight window
• Oil distribution network (oil pipes)
• Stitch Forming System
Stitch forming system are the mechanical parts that when correctly
synchronized forms stitches, seams and then stitching.
Various stitch forming mechanism are:
Thread control devices ( thread guides and thread tensions).
Needles
Bobbin case, bobbin and hooks
loppers
spreaders
Thread Control Devices
Thread control devices include thread guides, thread tensions
and take-ups which are necessary to provide uniform thread flow
Thread guides control the position and movement of thread.
Damaged or faulty thread guides can damage sewing thread and
cause thread breakage.
Tension Devices
Tension devices controls the flow and tension in the thread going to
form a stitch.
Tension in the thread determines the balance and tightness of a
stitch. Tensioning devices consist of a pair of tension disks, a spring
and a thumb nut that can be adjusted to control the ease with which
thread passes between the disks.
Thread take-ups
Thread take up control the supply of thread required to form each
stitch. It gives extra thread to the needle to form the stitch but takes it
away to set the stitch
Needles
Needles carry the thread through the fabric so a stitch can be sewn.
Hook
A hook is a rotating device encompassing the bobbin case that picks
up the needle thread loop to form a lock stitch.
Lopper
Lopper may or may not carry the lower thread in the formation of
stitch.
As in case of flat lock lopper holds the lower thread but in case
of single needle chain stitch it holds the needle thread.
Spreader
spreader work in conjunction with a lopper to assist in the loop
formation. They infact move the thread but did not carry the
thread.
Feeding System
The material handling components of machine are also called
as the feeding system. For a precise line of stitches to be formed
fabric must be moved through the stitch forming area of the machine
with accuracy and precession.
The feeding system usually consists of the following parts:
The presser foot
The throat plate
Feeding mechanism

The presser foot


The presser foot is the upper part of the feeding mechanism.
it is mainly responsible for applying pressure and proper
holding of the fabric
The presser foot also controls the amount of pressure as if light
fabric is being sewed than more pressure will be implemented
however if heavy fabric is being sewed than pressure in the presser
foot is lowered to some extent.
The throat plate
Throat plate is a metal plate that is present directly under the
needle. Throat plate has openings for needle and feed dogs.
Feed Mechanism
feed mechanism control the direction of fabric movement and the
amount of fabric movement for each stitch. Feed mechanism affect
stitch length and the rate of travel.

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