Fabric Finishing Techniques

and Innovations

Objective 1.02
Fabric Finishes

Any special treatments that are applied to

fabrics.
May be permanent or temporary.
Purposes of Fabric Finishes

Reduce undesirable characteristics.

Improve desirable characteristics.
Create specific designs.
Offer smoother or firmer hand.
Add specific properties, such as: wrinkle
resistance.
Greige Goods

Refers to fabric right off the loom.

Dyeing Textiles

Dyes
Compounds that penetrate and color
fibers.
Different fibers require different types.
Methods of Dyeing

Stock
Solution
Yarn
Piece
Product
Kinds of Dyes
Synthetic fiber dyes: dye depends on type of fiber
Acid dyes: Acid producing compound is used in the
dye bath. Used on wool, mohair, angora, and silk.
Fiber reactive dyes: Dyes react to the molecules of
fibers. Used on cotton, rayon, linen, hemp and silk.
Disperse dye: used on polyester and acetate fibers.
Colorfast

Color in a fabric will not change.

Printing Textiles

Involves transferring color to the surface of

a fabric to form a pattern of design.
Types of Printing

Roller
Screen
Rotary
Heat transfer
Resist
Roller Printing

Design is etched on copper rollers.

Each color in design requires separate
roller.
Simple and fast.
Expensive
Screen Printing

Earliest known
method.
Uses a screen to
transfer print.
Different screen for
each color.
Rotary Printing

Combines both
roller and screen
printing methods.
Heat Transfer

Dyes are first printed

on paper.
Paper is placed on
fabric and with heat
and pressure, the
design is transferred
to fabric.
T-shirts are commonly
printed with this
method.
Resist Printing
Resist printing involves a two-
step procedure in which a
design pattern is printed on a
white or dyed fabric with
chemical or wax that will
prevent the dyes from
penetrating the fabric. When the Resist
fabric is dyed, the color is Printing-
uses wax or
absorbed only where there is no chemicals
resist. Then the resist is
removed.
Wood Block Printing

Earliest form of printing

Slowest method
Digital Printing

Ink jet based

method of
printing
colorants onto
fabric.
Structural Design

Woven directly into the fabric.

Provides an interesting texture.
Example: jacquards
Finishes Affecting Appearance and
Texture
Stone Washing
Acid washing
Napping
Flocking
Brushing
Embossing
Stone Washing and Acid Dyes
Stone Washing:
Hugely popular in the
1980s.
Pumice stones used to
create a faded fabric look.
Acid Dyes:
Introduced to produce same
effects as stone washing.
Not environmentally
friendly.
Enzyme Washes or Bio-Stoning

Less harmful for the

environment.
Various effects can
be achieved.
Can be used to
soften fabric.
Napping
Raises the fiber ends to the
surface to be clipped,
brushed, or left raised.
Creates a softer, fuzzy
texture to the fabric.
Common fabrics include:
fleece, suede flannel,
corduroy, and velvet.
Flocking

Surface design
Applied to the
fabric.
Applying texture
by depositing
many small fiber
particles onto a
surface of fabric.
Brushing

Mechanical Finish
Fabric passed through
wire rollers.
Produces soft and
fluffy fabric.
Common fabric:
fleece
Embossing

Fabric is passed
through engraved
rollers.
Creates a raised
design.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5
yJOb8XmjE
Performance Finishes

Antimicrobial/Antibiotic/Antifungal
Anti-static
Durable press (Permanent Press)
Shrinkage control/Sanfordized
Mercerization
Stain release/Stain resistant
Performance Finishes

Water repellent and waterproof

Flame-resistant
Mildew resistance
Moth resistance
Wrinkle resistant/
Crease resistant
Innovations in Textiles

Microfibers
Polor fleece
Bamboo fabric-biodegradable
Lyocel (Tencel)- Made from wood pulp
from trees grown in replanted forests.

http://www.bambooclot
hing.co.uk/why_is_bam
boo_better.html
Innovations in Textiles
Biocotton- developed fiber that is non-allergic.
Nanotechnology- molecular structure of the
chemicals used to form fibers has been altered.
Micro Encapsulation
Particles are filled
with active ingredients
and applied to the
fabric or garment.
Examples- moisturizers,
insect repellents
Green Fabric Finishes

Reduce the health and environmental

impact by lowering the amount of
chemicals and other harmful substances
used in the finishing process.
Smart Fabrics

E-textiles (Electronic
Textiles)
Fabrics that enable
digital components to be
embedded.
Wearable technology