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Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Chapter Pre-Requisites

Before reading this chapter, you should already:

Have read How to Use This Book, pages xxviii-xxxiii, and


understand the professional recipe format.
Be able to identify standard vegetables and fruits, and to evaluate
them for quality.
Know how to properly store standard vegetables and fruits in order
to retain quality.
Be able to fabricate standard vegetables and fruits, including the
use of classic cuts.
Be able to prevent enzymatic browning of vegetable and fruits using
various techniques.
Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Chapter Objectives

After reading this chapter, you should be able to:

Preserve texture, color, flavor, and nutrients when cooking


vegetables and fruits for cold service.
List the six changes that occur during the fruit-ripening process.
Identify specialty vegetables and fruits, and fabricate them for
various garde manger preparations.
Prepare vegetables to be served cold by the steaming, blanching,
poaching, stewing, braising, roasting, and grilling methods.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Chapter Objectives

After reading this chapter, you should be able to:

Cook vegetables to the appropriate degree of doneness for various


garde manger applications.
Manage the ripening of fruits through proper purchasing and
storage.
Create attractive fruit platters.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Vegetables in Garde Manger Work

Virtually every type of vegetable is used in modern North


American garde manger work.
In addition to standard European and North American
varieties, vegetables from Asia and Latin America also
have entered todays garde manger repertoire.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Vegetables in Garde Manger Work

Organic Produce

In order for the USDA to recognize a


vegetable or fruit as certified organic
produce, it must:
Be grown without the use of chemical
fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides
Not be subjected to biotechnology or
irradiation
Not be fertilized with reprocessed sewage
Come from a farm that is certified organic

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Applications for Cold Vegetables

Cold Vegetable Appetizers

Cold cooked vegetables are frequently served with vinaigrettes or


other salad dressings, and may be served with sauces other than
salad dressings.
Many vegetable stews are excellent served at room temperature,
and may be accompanied by bread or served in a pastry shell.
The versatile cold vegetable dip is also a popular appetizer.
Vegetable dips are typically served with chips or crackers but may
also be accompanied by raw or lightly cooked cold vegetables .

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Applications for Cold Vegetables

Cold Vegetable Side Dishes

In formal European dining, it is a rule that:


Hot main dishes are served with hot side dishes.
Cold main dishes are served with cold side dishes.

Cold vegetables figure prominently in buffet work, in which a


selection of cold vegetable side dishes typically adds color and
freshness to the display.
In casual dining, cold vegetable sides are sometimes served with
grilled and fried foods.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Applications for Cold Vegetables

Cold Vegetable Entres

Entres composed solely of cold vegetable preparations are less


common than hot vegetable entres.
In buffet work, including one or more vegetarian entres is a
thoughtful touch.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Understanding Vegetables

In culinary terms, a vegetable is a plant part that is


prepared and served as a savory (non sweet) food.
Also includes many foods such as beans and tomatoes, which in
the botanical sense are fruits.

To correctly select and serve vegetables, you must have


a thorough understanding of the major culinary
vegetable classifications and know when particular
vegetables are in season.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Understanding Vegetables

Vegetable Family Groups by Culinary Use

Leafy Greens
Lettuces, spinach, field greens, mustard greens, chard, leafy chicories,
the edible greens of root vegetables, leafy members of the brassica
family.

Brassicas
Cabbages, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, leafy cabbages such
as kale and collards.

Cucurbits
Cucumbers, zucchini and other summer squashes, winter squashes,
pumpkins.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Understanding Vegetables

Vegetable Family Groups by Culinary Use

Nightshade fruits
Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants.

Legumes
Beans and peas, including seed pods such as green beans and snow
peas as well as seeds such as lima beans.

Alliums
The onion family, including scallions, leeks, shallots, and garlic.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Understanding Vegetables

Vegetable Characteristics

Understanding the ways in which vegetable characteristics develop


will enable you to handle each vegetable in the correct way.
Vegetable Textures
Vegetables are composed of several types of cells whose structure is
primarily formed of cellulose, or plant fiber.
The amount and type of cellulose in the cell walls and the amount of
water and pectin (a sugar derivative) within the cells determines the
vegetables texture.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Understanding Vegetables

Vegetable Characteristics

Chefs typically divide vegetables into three texture groups.


1.
2.
3.

Hard vegetables, such as carrots, rutabagas, and winter squashes.


Firm vegetables, such as green beans, turnips, head cabbage, and
corn.
Tender vegetables, such as zucchini, eggplant, cucumbers, and
tomatoes.

The texture of a particular vegetable is also influenced both by its


state of maturity and its state of freshness.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Understanding Vegetables

Vegetable Colors

Vegetable colors are created by the presence of plant pigments.


Three main pigment groups are responsible for vegetable colors:
1.
2.
3.

Chlorophyll in green vegetables.


Carotenoids in orange and orange-red vegetables.
Flavonoids:
a)
b)

Anthocyanins in purple and purple-red vegetables


Anthoxanthins in most white vegetables

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Applications for Fruits and Fruit Dishes

The Six Categories of Garde Manger Fruit Preparations


1.
2.
3.
4.

Fruit platters
Fruit salads
Fruit accompaniments
Fruit dcor
a)

The bright colors and interesting shapes of fresh fruits make them particularly
appropriate for decorative use.

5. Fruit baskets
a)

Consists of whole, small, unfabricated fruits that can be eaten out of hand and
do not require constant refrigeration.

6. Fruit displays
Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Applications for Fruits and Fruit Dishes

Guidelines for Preparing Fruit Platters

Fabricate and arrange fruits to make them easy to serve and easy to eat.
Alternate shapes and colors on the platter.
Create height on the platter by using a tall fruit centerpiece (e.g., a whole
pineapple or a melon basket), and arrange the cut fruit in a cascading flow
from the center to the edge.
Treat fruits that may discolor from enzymatic browning with a coating of
citrus juice or an ascorbic acid solution.
Do not prepare fruit platters too far ahead of time.
To preserve the presentation appearance, have backup fruit fabricated and
ready to replenish
You may also prepare several smaller platters to exchange as necessary.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Understanding Fruit

A fruit is the reproductive organ, specifically the ovary, of a


seed plant.

Many vegetables are botanically classed as fruits (e.g., tomatoes,


squash, and avocados).
Maturity:
When fruit reaches its full size, it is considered mature.
For most vegetables, maturity is the optimal point at which harvesting
and consumption should occur.

Most fruits (including those classed as vegetables) undergo an


additional phase of development called ripening, which makes
them better to eat.
Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Understanding Fruit

Ripening

The process by which a mature fruit completes its life cycle.


Six important changes occur during ripening.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Skin color changes, usually from green to a warm color such as yellow,
orange, red, or violet.
Acid content decreases.
Sugar content increases.
Texture softens, and its flesh becomes juicier.
Characteristic aroma develops.
Characteristic flavor develops.

When all of these changes are complete, the result is a ripe fruit.
Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Purchasing, Storing and Managing Produce

Judging Quality
When purchasing vegetables and fruits, evaluate their:

Appearance
Feel
Aroma
Sound
Taste

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Purchasing, Storing and Managing Produce

Judging Ripeness

When evaluating fruits for quality, ripeness is also a consideration.


Fruits purchased under ripe may never properly ripen.
In some cases, it is necessary to purchase under ripe fruits ahead of
time and manage their ripening in-house.
Either way, these three characteristics help determine whether a
fruit is ripe:
1.
2.
3.

Strong aroma
Yielding texture
Color development

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Purchasing, Storing and Managing Produce

Guidelines for In-House Produce Management

To prevent under ripe fruit from ripening, store under refrigeration.


To prevent ripe fruit from becoming overripe or decaying, store
under refrigeration.
To allow under ripe fruit to ripen at a natural rate, store in an open
container at 5570F (1321C).
To speed the process of ripening under ripe fruit, place a cut-open
apple with the fruit in its carton and wrap the carton in a sealed
black plastic trash bag; store at 7080F (2127C). Check
twice/day.
Do not refrigerate bananas, as low temperatures cause their skin to
turn brown.
Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Purchasing, Storing and Managing Produce

Guidelines for In-House Produce Management

Gently turn refrigerated berry pints and half-pints upside down to


relieve pressure on the bottom berries.
Cull fruit packages daily to prevent the spread of decay.
Store uncut potatoes, onions, garlic, and shallots at cool room
temperature.
For best flavor and texture, avoid refrigerating tomatoes and
avocados.
Store asparagus and other costly stem vegetables standing upright
with cut stem ends in 12 in. (2.55 cm) water. Drape a clean, damp
towel over the tips.
Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Purchasing, Storing and Managing Produce
Guidelines for Cutting Vegetables and
Fruits

Pare the skin of the pineapple.

1. Cut produce into precise, uniform shapes.


2. When deciding how to shape a particular
item, keep in mind the cooking method to
be used.
3. Vegetables and fruits for garnishes or side
dishes should contribute visual interest to
the plate by adding a contrasting shape.
4. Vegetables or fruits that will be mixed
together in a salad or medley should be
roughly uniform in size.

Remove the eyes with the tip of a swivel peeler.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Fabricating Produce

Most vegetables and many fruits require


fabrication before they can be cooked or served.
Four basic steps are involved.
1.
2.
3.
4.

Washing
Trimming
Peeling
Cutting into shape

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Preparing Vegetables for Raw Service
Crisping Raw Vegetables

The most appropriate vegetables


for raw service are those harvested
slightly immature.
The classic French raw vegetable
dish, crudits, is traditionally served
only in spring and early summer,
when vegetables are young.

You can replace some lost moisture


and firm the texture of most
vegetables by immersing them in
ice water after they have been
peeled and fabricated.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Fruits in Garde Manger Work

While fruit preparations are most closely associated with the pastry
kitchen and are frequently served for dessert, fresh fruit is also an
important element of garde manger work.
Virtually all of the worlds fruits are now available to the garde
manger chef, and can be researched though the same sources.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruits

Doneness
Four factors determine the correct doneness to which a
vegetable or fruit should be cooked:
1.
2.
3.
4.

Intended use.
Cooking style.
Customer preference.
Vegetable maturity or fruit ripeness.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruits

Doneness
Chefs recognize three basic levels of doneness for
vegetables and fruits
1. Al dente

Al dente vegetables are cooked just enough to lose their raw taste
while retaining their crunchy texture.

2. point

: This literally translates as to the tooth.

: This literally translates as to the point.

point vegetables are cooked to a texture that is tender but with


just a little resistance to the bite.

3. Fork-tender: Some cold vegetable and fruit preparations are


cooked to complete tenderness, such that they can be cut with
the side of a fork.
Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruits

Primary Cooking Methods Used in Garde Manger


Work

Pressure steaming
Boiling/blanching
Poaching
Stewing
Raising
Roasting/steam roasting
Grilling
Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruits

The Three Basic Reasons to Blanch Fruit and Vegetables


1. To remove skins or peels.
2. For par-cooking.
3. To pre-cook
To quickly and efficiently stop the process of carryover cooking in
steamed and blanched foods, they must be transferred immediately
after cooking into a large vessel containing ice water.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruits
Special Vegetable Fabrication and
Cooking Techniques

Procedure for Preparing Roasted Peppers


1. Preheat a grill or broiler to the highest setting.
2. Prepare for steaming the peppers after
grilling: Use a pouch made of aluminum foil, a
heavy-duty plastic bag, or a hotel pan with a
lid.
3. Place a manageable number of peppers on
the grill or under the broiler and cook them,
turning often, until the skins are blistered and
mostly charred Do not allow the peppers to
burn through to the flesh.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruits

Special Vegetable Fabrication and


Cooking Techniques

Procedure for Preparing Roasted Peppers


4. Immediately transfer the peppers into the
steaming pouch, bag, or pan.
5. Spread the peppers to cool.
6. Lay 2 pieces of parchment paper on a work
surface. Prepare a freshly sanitized
container to hold the fully fabricated
peppers.
7. To clean the peppers, put on food-service
gloves. (This is especially important when
cleaning roasted chiles.)
Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruits
Special Vegetable Fabrication and
Cooking Techniques

Procedure for Preparing Roasted


Peppers
8. Place the peppers on one of the
parchment sheets. Using a paring knife,
scrape and pull off the charred skin.
9. Change to a fresh pair of gloves and
wipe the knife.
10. Remove the stem and core of each
pepper and open it out flat. Remove the
seeds and membranes. Cut into desired
shapes.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruit

Special Vegetable Fabrication and Cooking Techniques

DO NOT RINSE ROASTED PEPPERS!


Rinsing not only washes away valuable flavor compounds and nutrients
but also causes the pepper flesh to become waterlogged.
In most preparations, the flecks of charring that remain on unwashed
peppers add to the rustic look of the finished dish, and should not be
considered a flaw.
If the peppers are to be used as a garnish or dcor element, charred
bits can be wiped away with a clean, damp towel.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruit

Procedure for Poaching Blanc


1. Prepare iced refreshing water or an ice bain-marie large enough to hold the
saucepan you will use for cooking the vegetables.
2. Assemble the ingredients.
3. Prepare the blanc
.
4. Add the vegetables and wait for the blanc to recover a brisk simmer.
5. If necessary, weight the vegetables with a plate or nonreactive lid to keep
them submerged.
6. Simmer the vegetables until they reach the desired doneness. Check their
texture by inserting a knife into them.
7. Remove the vegetables from the blanc and refresh them in the ice water.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruit

Special Vegetable Fabrication and


Cooking Techniques

(A)

Procedure to prepare artichokes for stuffing


1. Cut off the artichoke stem flush with the
base. Drop the stem in acidulated water and
rub the cut base with a lemon half.
2. Cut off the top third of the artichoke and
discard. Rub the cut surface with lemon.
3. Using scissors, snip off the spiny top of each
leaf (A).
4. Gently press open the artichokes leaves
and scrape out the hairy choke (B) using a
demitasse spoon or parisienne scoop,

(B)

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruit

Special Vegetable Fabrication and


Cooking Techniques

(C)

Procedure to prepare artichokes for


stuffing
5. Immediately rinse the artichokes interior
under cold water, shake dry, and squeeze
in some lemon juice. Hold the artichoke in
acidulated water until ready to cook it.
6. Cook the artichoke in lots of rapidly boiling
water (C), weighted down so it stays
submerged, until the bottom is knife-tender.
7. To judge doneness, pierce the bottom of
the artichoke with a paring knife (D).

(D)

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruit

Special Vegetable Fabrication and


Cooking Techniques

Procedure to prepare an artichoke heart


1. To remove the artichokes outer leaves,
bend each leaf back until it breaks above
its fleshy base (A).
2. Cut off the top two-thirds of the leaf cone
(B) and rub the exposed surfaces with a
lemon half.
3. Using a flexible paring knife, cut off the
bottom of the stem and pare away all of
the stems fibrous green skin and flesh
(C). Rub the cut surfaces with lemon as
you work.

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

(A)

(B)

(C)

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruit

Special Vegetable Fabrication and Cooking


Techniques

(D)

Procedure to prepare an artichoke heart


4. With the flexible paring knife, trim away the fibrous
outer flesh of the artichoke base, leaving only the
pale, whitish interior (D).
5. Cut the artichoke heart in half lengthwise and rub
the cut surfaces with lemon. Insert the point of the
knife under the hairy choke and slice under it in an
arc(E). Pull the choke away from the bottom and
discard it. Drop the cleaned artichoke heart half
into the acidulated water.
6. Boil (F) and refresh the artichoke hearts, or poach
them blanc.

(E)

(F)

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruit

Special Vegetable Fabrication


and Cooking Techniques

(A)

Procedure to prepare an artichoke


bottom

1. Cut off the artichoke stem flush with


the base (A).
2. To remove the artichokes leaves, bend
each leaf back until it breaks just
above its fleshy base (B). Remove
enough leaves so only the inner leaves
with tender, pale bases remain.
3. Cut the leaves off of the artichoke
bottom (C) and discard them.

(B)

(C)

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruit

Special Vegetable Fabrication and


Cooking Techniques

(A)

Procedure to prepare broccoli spears


1. Using a paring knife, trim the hard,
healed end of the broccoli stalk. Slide
the knife under the skin and pull it
toward the crown (A). If it does not peel
away easily, pare the skin with the
knife.
2. Cut lengthwise through the main stalk
and branched stems to make slender,
even-sized spears (B).

(B)

Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruit

Special Vegetable Fabrication and


Cooking Techniques

(A)

Procedure to prepare broccoli crown or


florets
1. Broccoli crown: Cut the stalk just below the
place where it branches out (A).
2. Florets: Cut farther up the stalk (B).

Procedure to prepare broccoli stem shapes


1. Peel the broccoli stalk and trim it into a
rough cylinder. It can then be fabricated into
rounds, ovals (shown here), btonnets, or
juliennes.
Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

(B)

Chapter

Cold Vegetables and Fruits


Cooking Vegetables and Fruit

Special Vegetable Fabrication and Cooking Techniques

Procedure to prepare whole cleaned leeks

1. Cut the leek at the point where the flesh changes from pale green to dark
green (A). Reserve the dark green tops for stock. (Trim about in. (0.75 cm)
of the leeks root end.)
2. Cut vertically through the stalk about 1in. (1 cm) from the root end (B).
3. Fan open the leeks layers (C) and wash under cool running water.

(A)

(B)
Copyright 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

(C)

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