Cutting Room

Objective of Cutting Room

Planning and Reproduction of marker

Spreading
Cutting
Preparation of cut work for the sewing room

Planning, Drawing &

Reproducing Marker

Marker planning placement of pattern

pieces to meet technical requirements

Marker Planning

Larger patterns are positioned first.

Smaller patterns fitted in thhere gap
Skill lies in finding the edges which fits toget

Requirement of Marker
Planning

Nature of the fabric and desired result

Requirement of quality in cutting
Requirement of production planning

Nature of the fabric &

desired result

Pattern alignment in relation to fabric grain

Symmetry and Assymetry
Design Characteristics of finished garment

Requirement of quality in
cutting

Type of cutting machine

Pattern count
Correct labeling of cut garment parts

Requirements of Production
Planning

Total no. of pieces and size and color ratio

Marker Utiliztion

Marker Utilization= Area of Patterns in marker plan X100

Total area of marker plan

How to maximize???

Reducing seam allowances

Placing a pattern 1/2degree off grain
Fabric Width

Methods of Marker Planning

Manual Marker Planning

Computerised Marker Planning

Your Assignment

Spreading

To place the no. of plies of fabric that the

production planning process has specified to
the length of the marker plan in the colors
required, correctly aligned as to length and
width and without tension

Basic requirements

Strong tables
Steel rails at the edge of the table for
movement of spreading machine
Table top is laminated, in some cases
vaccum facility.

Requirements of spreading
process

Shade Sorting
Correct ply direction and adequate lay
stability
Ply alignment
Correct ply tension
Elimination of fabric faults

Cutting Machines

Portable Knives
Stationary Cutters

Straight Knife

Elements of Straight Knife

Base Plate: usually on rollers

Stand carrying Knife
Blade
Electrical Motor
Handle
Sharpening Device

Machine Power is required for up and down

movement of blade
Operator power drives the knife through the
lay
Blade height: 10cm-33cm
Blade Stroke: 2.5-4.5 cm

Versatile
Portable
Cheap
Accurate at Curves
Easy to use

Rotary Knife

Cutting Knives

Blade Dia: 6-20 cm

Not suitable for cutting curved lines
Use to cut straight lines only
Very few plies

Band Knife

Continuously rotating steel blade mounted on

pulleys
Blade is fixed
Narrower blade than straight knife
More accurate cutting
Templates of plastic or heavyboard or plastic
may be placed on a sectioned block

Notchers

Notches required to allign garment parts

during sewing
Guide lines up the notcher with the cut edge
for consistent depth of notch
Hot Notcher

Drills and Thread Markers

Requirement of reference marks away from

the edge of fabric
Cold Drill/ Hot Drill
Hypodermic drill
Thread Marker

Die Cutting

Most accurate cutting

Preshaped metal outlines with one cutting
edge
Placement of fabric, positioning of die on the
fabricand engaging the machine to press the
die into the fabric
Used for collars, pocket flaps, appliques,
gloves etc.

Automated Cutting machines

Laser Cutting
Water Jet Cutting
Plasma Cutting
Automated Blade Cutting

Laser Cutting

Focuses a powerful beam of light projected

on to a minute area to cut fabric by
vaporization
.004 inch wide
Very high speed
High Accuracy
Heat produced tends to seal edges
Single ply cutting

Water Jet Cutting

Propelling a tiny jet of water (.0010-0.0015

inch)
Multiple ply cutting without fusing but edges
may fray/entangle

Plasma Jet Cutting

Same features as laser jet but at lower price.