Coastal Sediment Transport

CEPD03
Lecture 6
Prof. Dano Roelvink
Dr. Jan van de Graaff

Contents

Overview of problems
Bed shear stress by waves and current
Sediment transport by waves and current
Longshore sediment transport
Coastline changes
Cross-shore sediment transport
Dune erosion
Sedimentation in channels and trenches
Stability of channels and inlets

Cross-shore transport
Example comparison Delft3D with Delta
Flume test
Hs= 1.4 m, Tp = 5 s
Barred profile
Lots of measurements
Prototype conditions

Delft3D

Process-based model
2Dh, 2DV or 3D
This application 2DV
Based on wave and roller energy balance,
3D shallow water equations, 3D advectiondiffusion equation
Hydrodynamics and concentrations
reasonably well modelled
Sediment transport rate difficult

Initial profile

Wave and roller energy

Velocity

Sediment concentration

Example:
hindcast of
Delta Flume
test with
Delft3D

HRMS
1.5

0.5

0
0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

160

180

200

120

140

160

180

200

120

140

160

180

200

120

140

160

180

200

DEPTH
6

0
0

20

40

60

80

100

ETA
0.6
0.4
0.2
0
-0.2
0

20

40

60

80

-5

100

STOTX

x 10
4
2
0
-2
-4
0

20

40

60

80

100

Concentration profiles
CONCX100

CONCX102

CONCX115

0
0

0
0

CONCX130

CONCX141
1

0.5

0.5

0
1

CONCX170
0.5

0.5

0
0

0
0

CONCX160
1

CONCX145

Velocity profiles
RTFX100

RTFX102

RTFX115

0
-0.2

-0.1

0
-0.2

RTFX130

-0.1

-0.2

RTFX141
1

0.5

0.5

0
-0.2

-0.1

0
-0.2

RTFX156

-0.1

0.5

0.5

0
-0.1

-0.1

RTFX170
0.5

0
-0.2

-0.2

RTFX160

RTFX145

-0.1

0
-0.2

-0.1

-0.2

-0.1

Dunes as coastal protection

Dune erosion
Fast process
Dominated by undertow that brings sand
offshore
Development of steep scarp
Undercutting by waves followed by
slumping of scarp
Eventually rather flat equilibrium profile

Dune erosion behaviour

Behaviour in time

Scale laws

Scale series

Equilibrium profile Vellinga

Distance dune foot-limit profile

Dutch dune erosion method

Scarp 1:1
eq. profile acc.
to 8.4.1
ends at 8.4.2
seaward slope
1:12.5

sensitive parameters

Applying method

Put equilibrium profile over existing profile

compute area eroded and area accreted
if eroded>accreted: shift seaward
if accreted>eroded: shift landward
find location where eroded=accreted

Tide and storm surge

Exceedance frequency

UCIT

Universal Coastal Intelligence Toolkit

Developed at Delft Hydraulics
Matlab environment
Includes data, analysis tools and models
Integrated environment
Open
Easy to extend

Overview of JARKUS profiles

x 10

5.5

4.5

3.5

-1

-0.5

0.5

1.5

2.5

3.5

4
x 10

Momentary CoastLine MCL

MKL zone

Hoogteligging [m tov NAP]

30

Xmkl LZK : 100.3457 m tov RSP-lijn

20
10
0 GLW

-10
-20
Xmkl

-30
5000

4000

3000
2000
1000
Kustdwarse afstand [m]

-1000

Trend in MCL = TCL

Momentane Kustlijnen en de te Toetsen Kustlijn (met 95% betrouwb.int.)

150

Kustdwarse afstand [m]

140

Xtkl(LZK) : 93.8311 m tov RSP-lijn

BKL : 89 m tov RSP-lijn

130
120
110
100
90
80
70
60
1965

1970

1975

1980
Jaren

1985

1990

Dune erosion computation

-4

Raai: 4000 Jaar: 1987 Methode: Leidraad Duinafslag - nu (-) Norm: 1 10 per jaar

Hoogteligging [m tov NAP]

20
15

A : 471.9604 m 3/m 1
T : 137.9377 m 3/m 1
P : -108.7258 m tov RSP-lijn
R : -118.2268 m tov RSP-lijn

10

0
-5
-10
-15

depositiezoneafslagzone

-20

beschermingszone zeezijde
kernzone

800

600

400
200
0
-200
-400
Kustdwarse afstand [m tov RSP]

-600

-800