RECENT ADVANCES IN

COSMETIC DELIVERY
SYSTEMS

PRESENTED BY
MURTAZA.H.SHAKIR
T.Y.B.PHARM
NEED FOR NEW DELIVERY
TECHNIQUES
Cosmetics are substances used to enhance or protect the appearance or odour of the human body.

 Supply multiple benefits with minimal efforts.

 Cosumer perceivable benefits

 To optimize sensory attributes

Multifunctional products that focus on treatment as well as

aesthetic
APPLICATION AREAS IN WHICH
DELIVER SYSTEMS ARE USEFUL

 Sunscreens, anti-wrinkles, antioxidant

delivery.

 Flavour and fagrance delivery.

In hair care for nutrient delivery, antistatic

agents, conditioning agents.

 Humectants and Deodrants .

NOVEL COSMETIC DELIVERY SYSTEMS

1. Vesicular systems
 Liposomes
 Silicone vescicles and matrices.
1. Emulsions
 Microemulsions
 Multiple emulsions
 Nanoemulsions
 Pickering emulsions
1. Particulate Systems
 Microparticles
 Nanoparticles
 Cyclodextrin Comlexes
VESICULAR SYSTEMS

LIPOSOMES:
• Lipid vesicles composed of one or more lipid
bilayer surrounding an equal number of aqueous
compartments.

• Diameter 25-5000nm

• Ampiphillic molecules

• Most important are phospahtidyl choline and

phosphatidyl ethanolamine
WHY LIPOSOMES
 Very similar in construction to the
actual cell membrane.

 Helps to fix active ingrediant to the

outermost skinlayer.

 Empty liposomes to improve skin

condition.

 Decreases permiation rate.

LIMITATIONS

• Leakage of contents
• Presence of oxidation products
APPLICATION IN COSMETICS

 humectants. E.g. polyols

 Sunscreens. E.g. octyl methoxycinnamate

 vitamins. E.g. vitamin E, A and C.

 antidandruff. E.g. selenium salts

Sweet Almond Oil is rich in fatty acids and proteins to nourish

the skin. Aloe Vera stimulates the healing process, injured and
stressed skin is soothed. Ginkgo Biloba neutralizes free
radicals, one of the causes of aging. It also improves capillary
blood flow and strengthens tissues. Coconut Oil is also used to
decrease rough, dry skin.
 After Application EXTRASOME®
Before AQUA twice a day to the skin of
Application a male in his 40s

Powdery, bad-toned, Not powdery, well-toned,

rough, and dry skin moist, and fresh
SILICONE VESICLES AND
MATRICES
Cross-linked silicone polymer composed of polyether
modified dimethicone.(silicone elastomer blend, SEB)

 silicone resins reacted with certain silicone fluids.

 silicon hydride (SiH) reacts with a vinyl group

(CH=CH2)

Me3SiO-(MeSiO)x(MeSiO)y(Me2SiO)zSiMe3

(CH2)n R

Me3SiO-(MeSiO)x(MeSiO)y(Me2SiO)zSiMe3

 Diameter 0.05 to 1 micron

 WHY SILICONES?
Polyether

Silicone
 Highly flexible bilayer.

 Stable to high temperatures(90ºC).

Hydrophilic
Lipophilic Actives
 Quick evaporation of low mol. wt. cyclic Actives
silicones.

 High values of thixotropy.

 smooth, silky, non-greasy and reduced

irritancy.
APPLICATION IN COSMETICS
 Vitamins such as vitamin C, A, E and H
 conditoning agents such as gelatin
 Emolliants such as jojoba oil
 Humectants
 Antiperspirant Salts
Blush with silk-like texture
and sweat control formula
which makes your beautiful
makeup stay for long hours.
It contains Silicone
Elastomer, Low-melting
Point Wax and Sebum
Control Powder, which
effectively smooth and
brighten up your skin with
natural glow.
MICROEMULSIONS
Thermodynamically stable system.

 A system of water, oil and ampiphile.

 Diameter is less than 0.22µm

 Solubilize both hydrophilic and lipophilic agents.

Advantages and Cosmetic application:

 Avoids use of alcohol in pefuming products

 Vitamin E microemulsions are highly resistant to

oxidation in air

Low viscosity compared to other emulsions.

MULTIPLE EMULSIONS

 Globules of the dispersed phase encapsulate

smaller droplets.

 Two major types O/W/O and W/O/W.

Advantages and Application:

 Prolonged skin moisturizers.

 Incorporates two incompatible hydrophilic actives.

 O/W/O type has been used as sun protection cream.

NANOEMULSIONS

 O/W emulsion .
 For protection and makeup of skin, mucosa ,
hair and scap.
 Comprises of 2 to 15% of oil phase.
 Sufactants used are categorised as GRAS.

Bioxil Daily Cel-Repair is specially formulated to

provide an all-in-one solution to address skin damage
due to prolonged sun exposure, environmental
aggression and aging process. Contains a unique
blend of antioxidants from fruits and plant extracts,
and nano-emulsion of Co-Q 10 to increase skin
humidity, giving the skin a smooth and silky feel.
ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATION.
 High surface area.

Non-sticky, non-oily and easy to spread.

 Does not present phototoxicity and allergeniciy.

 Reduces Trans Epidermal Water Loss.

 High cepability of keeping skin moisturized

 moisturizing lotions
 perfumed water
 makeup remover
 hair products
 scalp products
 gels
PICKERING EMULSIONS

 Solid stabilized, surfactant free

emulsions.

 Nanometer sized particle of

biodegradable polymers.
Compound Emulsion Type Stabilized

Alumina W/O

Betonite O/W

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate O/W

Fat W/O

Magnesium Oxide W/O

Magnesium Trisilicate W/O

Titanium Dioxide (coated) O/W, W/O

Silica O/W

Tin Oxide O/W

ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATIONS
 Avoids the use of non-ionic or ionic surfactants.

 Non irritant due to use of biodegradable polymers.

 Paticles may themselves may have cosmetic application

(TiO2 or ZnO).

 Sunscreens
 Shamopoos
 Conditioners
 Vitamin formulations
MICROPARTICLES

 Conventional microencapsulation.

 Consist of inner core and outer coating material.

 Diameter in range of 1 to 1000µm.

 Protects, stabilizes or delays release of core.

 ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATIONS
 reduces the activity of core to outside
environment.

 Reduces evaporation to outside environment.

 Enhances topical absoption of actives and

Controled release of fragrances.

 Greasy feel and bad odour is avoided

Super Sun Protection

Dermatologic Cosmetic Labs introduces its UVA/UVB

Superblock SPF 30, a very water-resistant, broad-
spectrum physical sunblock featuring highly refined,
micronized titanium dioxide and transparent zinc oxide to
help prevent sunburn and protect against the visible signs
of aging.
NANOPARTICLES

 Submicron colloidal system having diameter of 0.003-1µm.

 Lipid vesicles formed by lipid bilayer.

Made of biodegrdable polymers.

Correlation of particle size with concentrations of lecithin and oil

Lecithin Particle Size Oil Core

2.5% 100 nm 18%

2.5% 200 nm 42%

4% 50 nm 10%

6% 40 nm 10%
ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATION
 Protection against degradation.

 Occlusive , without use of greasy oils.

 Enhanced hydration due.

 Nanoparticles shows UV-bloking potential.

 H2O H2O H2O H2O H2O

Small particles
Small pores
hydration
Skin

H2O H2O H2O H2O H2O

Large pores Water Large particles

evaporation
Skin
 sunscreens
 retinoids
 tocopherol
 perfumes
 Coenzyme Q10
CYCLODEXTRIN COMLEXES

 Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides containing a minimum

of six d-(+)-glucopyranose units attached by a glucosidic bonds.

 All the hydroxyl groups in Cyclodextrins are oriented to the outside of

the ring.

 hydrophobic inner cavity and a hydrophilic exterior.

The cyclodextrins, by themselves, are natural, non-toxic additives.

 ADVANTAGES AND APPLICATION
 Through CD complexation it is possible to obtain controlled
release of fragrances.

 Reduce or eliminate undesired odors

 Cyclodextrin (CD) complexation of fragrance materials increases

their solubility and reduces or prevents their evaporation.

 Protection against decomposition, oxidation, hydrolysis, or loss

by evaporation.

 prfuming products

 vitamims

 gels
Anti-shine day cream with Tea
Tree Oil for oily skins … An anti-
shine, sebum-regulating skincare
DELIVERY DEVICES

1) IONTOPHORESIS

2) COSMETIC PATCHES
FUTURE TRENDS

 Liposomes and nanoemulsion do not disturb the integrity of skin

lipid bilayer.

 evolution of cosmetic patches.

 sonophoresis and electroporation.

 Name Supplier Application
Natipide II Liposome Rhone-Poulenc Reinforces skin’s own moisture
retention capabilities

Photosome Applied Genetics Sun-care products

Microsponge Advanced Polymer System High payload; improves

cosmetic elegance of liquid

LipoCD-SA Lipo chemicals Able to deliver oils in powder form

Unispheres Induchem Less sensitive to pH and surfactants;

pleasing visual effect

Orgasol Elf Atochem Improves skin feel and adhesion,

offers controlled delivery. And
protection to variety of hydrophilic,
lipophilic substances
SUMMARY
 Potential to develop as the “New generation smarter carrier
systems”

 To enhance the safety, stability, extended efficacy and aesthetic

appeal.

 Consumer appeal.
THANK YOU