JOTHI LINKAM MD SENIOR DESINER SCHOOL OF FASHION DESIGN FDDI- ROHTAK

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
The samples decide the ability of

an exporter. The buyer will access the exporter and his organization only by the samples. If the samples are ofgood quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyers will be forced to place the order. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative

 By doing sampling the exporter

can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing more ever the manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doing sampling only the exporter can optimize the processing parameters for mass production, which helps to avoid

The Details Attached to the Garment Sample After theconfirmationof order, each sample
sent t 0 the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help ofa tag. It containsthe detailspertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim.
Ref no. Color Fabric Composition Description Quantity

 There may be a separate sampling

department in a company. But as the merchandiser is the person who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples and other requirements, this sampling department will work under the supervision of merchandising department. Also asthe samplesare to be made according to the buyers

SAMPLING TYPES
Salesmensamples or

promotional samples Proto samples or fit samples Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples Wash test samples Photo samples Fashion show samples Pre-production samples Production samples Shipment samples

Sampling Process
Theprocessof sample department

varies from context to context, and the development process covers a wide range of diverse products from new fibers, fiber blends, new yarns, fabric structures ,finishes and surface effects and all types of made up products such as knitwear, hosiery, cut and sewn garments, household products, technical and medical products. sampling; the first phase covers the

There are different phases of

 The second phase covers the

process following acceptance of the first prototype sample and includes the functions of sourcing and ordering component, testing the product and carry out trails once the finalized sample specifications has been drawn up, the third and final phase commences.

DESIGN DEPARTMENT
Fashionsketching

orfashionflats can be defined as a base templates one can use to create uniqueappareldesigns.
We have industry standard flat

sketches that demonstrate a professional and accurate illustration of garments and

What is Sketching or Designing?

 In thegarment manufacturingthe

first step is designingthe sketch for the dresses that have to be prepared. For this purpose the designer first draw several rough sketches in thesketch book. The designer does not go for details at this moment but he rather let his creativity flow on the paper and he draws many sketches. Later these sketches are analyzed by a panel of designers. They finally select few out of them. These few sketches are rendered in detail separately or in the form of asingle collection. The designer also drawsworking

Fashion sketching not only involves the act of drawing an initial idea but also the process of considering and developing the idea across the pages of a sketchbook. It is always best to have an idea of what you want to draw. In many respects afashion sketchis a problemsolving process, which brings together the visual elements of articulating an idea in its purest form. This can mean recording a

 Afashionsketch should seek to record

and make sense of an idea. This is largely achieved with any one or more of three components: Establishing the overall silhouette of a garment or outfit Conveying the style lines of a garment such as a princess seam or the positioning of a dart And representing details on a garment such as a pocket shape, topstitching or embellishment. Some sketches may appear spontaneous or similar to mark making but they should all be linked by a common understanding of the human form and

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Garment designers begin to

materialize their ideas using hand sketches, off-the-rack garments,technical drawings, threedimensional draping ondress forms, or computer-aided design (CAD). Many apparel companies hire both merchandisers and designers as part of their design and development team. Merchandisers often oversee and guide the design team to determine what, when, and how

 These concept boards are typically

collages of color and fabric swatches,fashion sketches, and magazines photos that capture the theme or mood of the design ideas. Designers begin to materialize their ideas using hand sketches, off-therack garments, technical drawings, three-dimensionaldrapingondress forms, or computer-aided design (CAD). CAD is becoming increasingly popular, partially due to the ease with which images can be redrawn, altered, and modified; and partially attributable to the

Developments in Product Design

CAD and CAMare two technologies that

have made prominent changes in the way garment manufacturingwas done in previous eras. Today all largegarment manufacturingcompanies have developed CAD/CAM system to do the process ofgarment manufacturing. CAD is an abbreviation for computeraided design and CAM for computer-aided machine. CAD/CAM is computer software that controls the production of garments. In CAD the designer designs the

 The expense and time is reduced in a

considerable manner when compared to the laborious manual work of designing. Designing can be done from anywhere as the designers are able to control the process from remote locations as well. The data can be easily stored, transmitted, and transported through computer files. Digital swatches can be saved on floppy disks, zip disks, CD-ROM or hard drive thus saving space. Moreover they can be easily organized for fast and easy retrieval.

PATTERN MAKING
The appearance and fit of a garment is

highly dependent on each process. Patternmaking is one of the earliest steps in the development of a garment. It is a craft that has evolved over the centuries into a skilled technical process. Today, patternmaking tools have been carefully tailored to quickly perform repetitive time-consuming tasks, allowing apparel companies to cater to the fast paced world of fashion. Now a days sophisticated software

Pattern MakingProcess
Once a designer has completed a

drawing of a garment, it is transformed into a sample pattern. "Patternmaking" is the process of creating all the correctly sized pieces needed to make a complete garment.
For many smaller

manufacturers,pattern makingis

 The patternmaker may use one of

the following techniques to develop a sample pattern. S/he may "manipulate" a new pattern by using geometric rules to modify or alter existing pattern pieces. S/he may translate a design that has been "draped" and pinned on a dress form by convertingthe shapesof the draped garment sections into paper pattern pieces.

 Although many firms still make

patterns by hand, larger manufacturers make production patterns on a computer using CAD software. Other systems have been developed that allow patternmakers to create patterns manually by using a lifesized, sensitized table and a stylus attached to a computer. As the patternmaker indicates

Types of Pattern Making in garment manufacturing 1) Block Pattern;

Block pattern is a basic pattern with

out any style features and incorporates the measurements, proportions andpostureof the body for which garments, developed from this pattern, are intended.

Block pattern can be developed by

2) The flat method; The components of the pattern, usually the body and sleeve, are constructed by a draft(technical drawing) which incorporates the measurements and proportions of the particular system used by the pattern maker. It cad be produced by a computer.

3) Modelling;
It entails the fitting of the block

garment usually in toile, on a workroom stand of the appropriate size, when the fit balance are satisfactory,motileis removed from the stand and each component is copied on to pattern paper and the necessary making up allowances

4) Garment Pattern

 The styled patterns used for cutting

the original sample garments can be developed by a variety of means, including the flat method, modelling or a combination of both. When using the flat method, the pattern maker introduces style lines of the garment on to a copy of the block pattern, performs the necessary manipulation and then adds the requisite sewing and other allowances to each component.

5) Computerizedpattern making

At most large manufacturers, patterns

are made on a computer with computer aided design (CAD) systems, the pattern maker manipulating small graphic patterns on the computerscreenwith a hand-held control device. Geometry drives can make an infinite number of changes tothe shapesand sizes the pattern including creating new design lines or adding pleats, fullness, andseam allowances. To allow pattern makers to make patterns manually on a computer,

 The stylish picks up the lines drawn on

the table and shows them on thescreen. Changes can also be made directly on thescreen. In both cases, patterns are immediately available for other operations such as grading and marker making. The essential features of this technology are pattern design and pattern generation systems. Patterndesign systemthe pattern maker inputs to the system all the block patterns in current use and with the aid of the computer can construct

GRADING SIZES
Pattern Grading:
PatternGrading is theprocesswhere by

patterns of different sizes are produced from the original masterpattern. This processcan be performed manually or automatically by a computerized system. Patterns are graded according tosize chartswhich presentthe sizesand the averagemeasurementsof the population group for which the garments are intended.

What isPatternGrading?
Patterns initially are made in only one

size. In order to produce clothing that fits various body types and sizes, thepatternpieces must be increased or decreased geometrically to create a complete range of sizes.
Theprocessof resizing the

initialpatternis called "grading." Each company determines its own grade specifications for each size, and size

 Grading is themethodused to

increase or decrease thesample sizeproductionpatternto make up a complete size range. For example, thesample size10 patterns must be made larger to accommodate sizes 12, 14 and 16 and smaller for sizes 8 and 6. Each company sets predetermined grade specifications, or rules.For

 Pre-programmed grade rules for

increase or decrease are automatically applied to the pieces of each grading location. Then the computer can print out thepatternin each new size. Manufacturers often use an out side service to make patterns, grade patterns, and make the marker. Although manysmall firmsstill use traditional gradingmethods, grading, like patternmaking, is becoming increasingly computerized. Using a CAD system, thepattern can

Shrinkage
When fabric is cut for making garments,

it is important to ensure that fabric is fully relaxed and is not subjected to any additional tension or strain during rolling or unrolling while layering for cutting.
So fabrics are often relaxed prior to

cutting to ensure that the shrinkage is minimized in a garment.

Garments which are unwashed and can

 Woven fabric garments typically

shrink just a little . This will usually be about 2-3% which is fairly unnoticeable. Knits that are not garment dyed will be more effected by washing and drying. Shrinkage forknit fabricscan be anywhere from 1-8% and 95% of this shrinkage will take place the first time it is laundered. In these cases shrinkage is incorporated in all the

Shrinkage adjusting
Shrinkage adjustments should not

distort the original shape and balance of the patterns. When shrinkage is applied to a panel in garment all corresponding patterns must also be applied with shrinkage adjustments.

MARKER PLANNING
Pattern Markings Marking refers to the process of placing pattern pieces to maximize the number of patterns that can be cut out of a given piece of fabric in order to make garments.
Pattern making is a highly skilled

technique which calls fortechnical ability, sensitivity for design

Marker;

Marker is a thin paper on which all

pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style ofgarmentsare drawn in such way that maximum fabrics will be used and fabric wastage will be minimum.
Objectives of Marker Efficiency:

-Examine how fabric utilization affects marker efficiency -Enumerate the factors affecting material utilization Factors of Marker Efficiency Fabric Characteristics

 Once the pattern is graded, the fabric

must be prepared for cutting. In order to spread the fabric properly, The spreader must know how the pattern pieces will be placed on the fabric. "Marking" refers to the process of placing pattern pieces to maximize the number of patterns that can be cut out of a given piece of fabric. Firms strive for "tight" markers largely because fabric is one of a manufacturer's most significantbusiness costs, often exceeding thecost of labor. Although markers can be made by

Pre-Layout Markings
Pattern Adjustment Lines: Twoparallel linesthat indicate where you can lengthen or shorten a pattern piece to maintain the original shaping. This should be done before layout. Waistline Marking: A short solid line that indicates the natural waistline of the wearer.

Cutting room for computer marker planning;

Master make pattern is made

according to the pattern from clients or information related to the design or pattern, all sizes have to be shrunk tests to determine diminished value. The redrafted pattern will then be read into the computer, using the latest version of the garment

Marking Standards;
Will have markings appropriate for

the fabric. Select a type and substance that will not damage the fabric and can be removed easily after construction. Shows only on the wrong side of fabric, or does not damage or compromise the appearance on the right side after construction is complete.

ROLE OF FASHION MERCHANDISER Fashionmerchandising is the

combination of the processes that a newfashionitem must go through to be available in mass quantities to the consumer after it is left the hands of the designer. Fashionmerchandising often gets confused withfashionmarketing and although they work together, they are two very different things. To understandfashionmerchandising completely, it is important to examine

 Afashionmerchandiserwill have

significant input on the types of fabrics used to make a piece of clothing.

Having a strong historical and socio-

cultural understanding of the fabrics, help change a designers vision into reality.
By applying their knowledge about

 Buying becomes part

offashionmerchandising when amerchandiserbuysfashionitems to be presented in a store. Afashionmerchandisermust be aware of the target market for the fashionitem and also very wellversed infashiontrend analysis and forecasting. This allows for more accurate

 The final component

offashionmerchandising is selling. Afashionmerchandiserthat works with a designer is responsible for sellingfashionitems to stores, who then sells to consumers. Again themerchandisermust have an idea about forecasting andmarket trendsso they may give their recommendation regarding production of the item. Creativity is important, because a

 Buying Financial Accountability Customer Knowledge Visual Merchandising Administration

TYPES OF SAMPLE
When we work with some buyers

continuously, we will have to keep on sending samples to them very often. Whenever they have enquiries, buyer may need samples. Buyers may like to see the garments in a new fabric. For one enquiry, they may need samples in different fabrics to choose from. If they want to develop new style in new fabric, then also we will have to send these samples. We may have to spend too much on these samples. But these samples are

1.Salesmen samples or Some buyer needs these samples for promotional samples

getting the orders from their customers. If the buyer is having 7 salesmen in his office, then the buyer will ask us to make 7 samples in each style. The salesmen will book the orders from their customers, by showing these samples. Buyer will place the order to us accumulating the quantities. If we have sent samples for 5 styles, some times, we may get orders for all 5 styles, 3 styles or 1 style. Some times,

 Normally the sampling will cost us

approximately 3 to 5 times of the garment price. We can not expect to get the full cost from the buyer. Of course these samples will help us for our business. Hence we can ask the buyer to accept 2 or 3 times of garment price as the sampling cost, for the styles which we dont get orders. Some

2.Photo samples or fit samples These samples are to be made after

getting the order sheets. These samples are needed to check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but in the actual measurements and specifications. Some buyers may need these samples if they want to print the photos of garments on photo inlays, packing box, hang tag, etc.

 The buyers will arrange the photo

shoot session, by spending hugemoneyto theadvertisingagencies. So the buyers will need these samples strictly on time. If they dont get samples on time, the buyers will have to pay more compensation to theadvertisingagencies and models. Buyers will ask us to make the photo samples according to the intended

3.samples or reference samples or approval samples

These samples are to be made in actual

fabrics with actual trims. If the order is for 3 colors, buyer may need samples in any one color and swatches (fabric bits) in other colors. These samples should be strictly as per the specifications in the order sheets. We have to get the approval for these samples from the buyer before starting production. After getting the approval, the approved samples should be followed in production.

4.Washtest samples
If these samples are sent before

starting production and if we get some remarks or comments on these samples, we can correct them in production. But some buyers will need us to send these samples from production before shipment. In this case, these samples may be considered as shipment samples.

5. Pre-production samples
These samples are almost like

approval samples. They have to be made in actual production fabric with actual bulk trims. They will represent that the production will be like these samples.

6.Production samples
These samples are to be sent before

shipment to get the buyersconfirmationfor shipment. Hence these samples are needed to be perfect in all manners. Buyer may check these samples for everything or anything. Some times, they may do wash test also. We should not get any remark or comment. We have to get only OK from the buyer.

7. Shipment samples
These samples are to be sent after

shipment. They should be sent in actual packing with all labels, tags, etc. (Generally these samples will not be tested by buyer for anything. And even if we get some comments from buyers, we can save ourselves by saying that these samples were sent from the left over garments after the shipment; hence there might be some mistakes.