Wave (and current) forces

WAVE FORCES


NON-
BREAKING
BREAKING BROKEN
WALL SAINFLOU
MINIKIN
GODA a.o.
p
m
= w d
b
/2
PILE MORISON
MORISON
+Slamming
MORISON
Circular
CAISSON
MC CAMUS
& FUCHS
MINIKIN -
RUBBLE
STRUCTURE
VAN DER
MEER
VAN DER
MEER
VAN DER
MEER
FLOATING
STRUCTURE
Potential
theory
Slamming Potential
theory

WAVE FORCES


NON-
BREAKING
BREAKING BROKEN
WALL SAINFLOU
MINIKIN
GODA a.o.
p
m
= w d
b
/2
PILE MORISON
MORISON
+Slamming
MORISON
Circular
CAISSON
MC CAMUS
& FUCHS
MINIKIN -
RUBBLE
STRUCTURE
VAN DER
MEER
VAN DER
MEER
VAN DER
MEER
FLOATING
STRUCTURE
Potential
theory
Slamming Potential
theory

Wave forces an a vertical wall
(Sainflou)
Ah
2H
wave crest
wave trough
H
H

z
Figure 2. Wave induced pressure on a vertical wall
SWL
SWL
h
cosh( ( )) cosh( ( ))
( , , ) cos( ) cos( )
cosh( ) cosh( )
cosh( ( ))
(cos( ) cos( ))
cosh( )
cosh( ( ))
cos( ) cos( ) sin( ) sin( ) cos( ) cos( ) sin(
cosh( )
i r
a g a g k z h k z h
x z t t kx t kx
kh kh
a g k z h
t kx t kx
kh
a g k z h
t kx t kx t kx t
kh
e e
e e
e e
e
e e e e
e
+ +
u = + +
+
= + +
+
= + +
( )
) sin( )
2 cosh( ( ))
cos( ) cos( ).
cosh( )
kx
a g k z h
t kx
kh
e
e
+
=
2 cosh( ( ))
cos( ) cos( )
cosh( )
cosh( ( ))
2 sin( ) cos( ).
cosh( )
d
a g k z h
p t kx
t t kh
k z h
a g t kx
kh
e
e
e
| | cu c +
= =
|
c c
\ .
+
=
cosh( ( ))
2 sin( ).
cosh( )
k z h
p gz a g t
kh
e
+
= +
a
r
= a
i
= a

Total reflection - Linear wave theory
Total reflection - Linear wave theory
clapotis height from nonlinear
theories
2
coth
H
h kh
L
t
A =
Ah
Ah
d = h
Ah
w = g
Approx Pressure
Distributions
2H
h
wave crest
wave trough
Ah = 0.66 m
H
H
F
b

F
t

F
c


z
Figure 2. Wave induced pressure on a vertical wall
gh
gh
SWL
1
cosh( )
gH
kh

Fb = force per unit width from the hydrostatic pressure against the leeward wall.
Fc = force per unit width for the wave crest in front of the wall
Ft = force per unit width for the wave trough in front of the wall
Stages in the development of
flow (from left to right) past a
circular cylinder from the rest.
The speed of the stream has
been increased rapidly and
then kept constant
Non-separated vs
separated flow
Drag and lift on a circular cylinder,
length l
Bernoullis equation
2
1
constant along a streamline
2
p gz U + + =
2
2
1
; the steady drag force
2
1
; the lift force magnitude
2
D D p
L L p
F C A U
F C A U

=
=
( )
0.3
D
C =
Low Reynolds number
Critical Reynolds number
_
+ _
+ _
+ _
+ _
+ _
+ _
+ _


+ _
+ _
+ _
+ _
+
b
eff
b
eff
( )
1.0
D
C ~
Drag and lift on en circular cylinder
U
0
F
F
D
F
L
Vortex shedding period T
o

is given by the Strouhals number: St=D/(U
0
T
0
) ~ 0.2
D
Flow patterns for flow over a
cylinder:
(A) Reynolds number = 0.2;
(B) 12;
(C) 120;
(D) 30,000;
(E) 500,000.
Alternating vortex shedding make
forces timedependent with typical
period given by the shedding
period T
0
for transversal forces (lift)
and T
0
/2 inline (drag).
This adds up to the steady inline
force we know from before as the
drag force.
(A) (B)



(C)


(D) (E)
DRAG COEFFISIENT (2 D)
Steady flow
2
;
1
2
D
p
A
F
C
bDU
=
=
Strouhal number versus Reynolds
number for a smooth non-vibrating
cylinder

0
Re
v
=
U D
0
0
0
0
1
=

t
f D
S
U
f
T
WAVE FORCES


NON-
BREAKING
BREAKING BROKEN
WALL SAINFLOU
MINIKIN
GODA a.o.
p
m
= w d
b
/2
PILE MORISON
MORISON
+Slamming
MORISON
Circular
CAISSON
MC CAMUS
& FUCHS
MINIKIN -
RUBBLE
STRUCTURE
VAN DER
MEER
VAN DER
MEER
VAN DER
MEER
FLOATING
STRUCTURE
Potential
theory
Slamming Potential
theory

Small diameter cylinder D < 0.2
Forces on
structures with
non-separated
flows.
The flow turns
back before the
vortex is
generated.
Potential theory
Keulegan Carpenter number
K = U
m
T/D<2
Orbital wave-motion less than the width of
the structure.
Potential theory
The solution for a fixed body in a given, external flow |
0
is
usually taken as a sum of |
0
and a diffraction potential |
1
, i.e.
|=|
0
+|
1
. (the velocities of the flow is given by )

Then the solution (assuming incompressible, irrotational,
inviscid fluid) must satisfy three following 3 requirements:
Laplace-equation V
2
| = 0 must be satisfied throughout
the fluid.
The normal component of the particle velocity on the
surface of the body (SB) must be zero, c|/cn = 0.
The velocity potential far from the body must approach
the incoming (undisturbed) potential |
0
.
u | = V
Potential theory - forces
At first we will consider the force which occurs in an
undisturbed wave, the Froude-Krylof-force.

This force is determined by integrating the pressure around a
virtual surface in the undisturbed wavefield. This virtual surface
coincides with the vetted surface of the structure.

Consider a fluid element limited by the same surface as the
structure. It may then be seen that the force on the surface of the
fluid element must be large enough to give it the acceleration.
Thus, according to Newton's 2. Law, the total force on the fluid
element will be (assuming the structure is small):
( )
0
0 FK water water
du d
F V V
dt dt
| = = V
Potential theory - forces
( )
0
( 1)
A water
S
d
F pndS C V
dt
| = = + V
}}
Next, the structure will disturb the flow and this disturbance is
given by |
1
. The force F obtained by integrating the correct
pressure around the structure surface will generally be larger
than F
FK
.


p is obtained by inserting | in Bernoullis equation.
is the normal unit vector at the structure surface.
C
A
is the added mass coefficient. Usually (C
A
+1) = C
M
n
Potential theory for cylinder in
oscillating flow (/D>5)
Froude-Krylov force
y
x
d
D
z
x
F P
d
cos u
P d
u
r
R=D/2
2
2
0
0
exp 0.2
cos
4
FK D
x
o
general ression in case of D
D
f p Rd u
t

t
u u
=
<
| |
= =
|
\ .
}
Potential theory for cylinder in
oscillating flow (/D>5)
2
0
cosh ( )
cos sin cos
cosh
a
g
g k z d R
t t k r
kd r
q
| e e u
e
=

| | +
= + +
` |
\ .
)
y
x
d
D
z
x
F P
d
cos u
P d
u
r
R=D/2
2
2 2
0
0
2 2
0 0
2
0
cos 2 cos
2 cos
(1 )
M x
A x
f g t kR d
R k g t C R u
C R u
t
e e u u
t e e t
t
=
=
=
= =
= +
}
2
cos
D
o
f p Rd
t
u u =
}
{ }
sin cos 2 cos
D o
r R
p g t t kR
t
c|
e e e u
c
=
= = +
For circular cylinder with 0.2 : 1; 1 2
A M A
D C C C < = = + =
C
M

D/
C
M
=C
A
+1
NB ! C
m
= the
added mass
coefficient
(= CA in
text)
Fixed bodies

V
R
is volume
per unit length
2b
h
2
2
2
1
|
.
|

\
|
+
h
a
a
h
NB ! C
m
= C
A

Solid bodies
0.64



0.64
b/a Cm



inf
12.75
7.0
3.0
1.5
1.0
1.0
0.99
0.97
0.90
0.76
0.64
b/a Cm
1.0
1.5
2.0
3.0
inf
0.58
0.69
0.76
0.83
1.00
0.5
a/b Cm


1.5
2.0
2.51
3.99
6.97
9.97
axia lateral
0.30
0.21
0.16
0.08
0.04
0.02
0.62
0.70
0.76
0.86
0.93
0.96
b/a Cm
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
10
0.68
0.36
0.24
0.19
0.15
0.13
0.11
0.08
3
3
4
a t
b a
2
6
t
( )
2 / 3
tan
1
u
t
b a
2
4
t
3
3
1
a
3
3
4
a t
b a
2
3
4
t
b a
2
Flat
plates
Bodies of
revolution
Square
prisms
m R FK
F C V u F = +
WAVE FORCES


NON-
BREAKING
BREAKING BROKEN
WALL SAINFLOU
MINIKIN
GODA a.o.
p
m
= w d
b
/2
PILE MORISON
MORISON
+Slamming
MORISON
Circular
CAISSON
MC CAMUS
& FUCHS
MINIKIN -
RUBBLE
STRUCTURE
VAN DER
MEER
VAN DER
MEER
VAN DER
MEER
FLOATING
STRUCTURE
Potential
theory
Slamming Potential
theory

Forces on slender
structures with
separated flows
Separated flow
Keulegan Carpenter number
K = u
o
T/D > 2
Orbital wave-motion larger than the width
of the structure.
Morisson formula
Forces on slender stuctures
The Morison formula
Dragforce (inline with flow):
Inertia force (inline with flow):
Lift force (transversal to flow):
2
D D
1
F C D u
2
=
M M
du
F C A
dt
=
2
L L 0
1
F C D u
2
=
A
D
Parameters governing drag coefficient C
D

Reynolds number (Re = U D/v)
Keulegan-Carpenter number (K
c
= U
m
T/D)
Roughness (k/D)
Distance between the cylinder and a fixed
boundary (H/D)

where
D = diameter.
H = clearance between the cylinder and
a fixed boundary.
T = wave period.
k = roughness height.
U = flow velocity.
U
m
= maximum orbital particle velocity.
v = kinematic viscosity of the water.
(R
e
= U.D/v ; v ~ 10
-6
m
2
/sec)
drag coefficient for circular cylinders
in steady flow
Parameters governing drag coefficient C
D

Reynolds number (Re = U D/v)
Keulegan-Carpenter number (K
c
= U
m
T/D)
Roughness (k/D)
Distance between the cylinder and a fixed
boundary (H/D)

where D = diameter.
k = roughness height.
steel, new uncoated
steel, painted
steel, highly rusted
concrete
marine growth
5.10
-5

5.10
-6

3.10
-3

3.10
-3

5.10
-3
- 5.10
-2

k (meters)
drag coefficient for circular cylinders
in steady flow
Parameters governing drag coefficient C
D

Reynolds number (Re = U D/v)
Keulegan-Carpenter number (K = U
m
T/D)
Roughness (k/D)
Distance between the cylinder and a fixed
boundary (H/D)

where
D = diameter of the structure.
T = wave period.
U
m
= maximum orbital particle velocity.
surface
elevation
particle
velocities
U
m
T

drag coefficient as a function of K for
cylinders in waves. (Re > 5.10
5
)
C
d
versus Re for rough cylinders, K = 20
Re
C
d
versus Re for rough cylinders, K = 100
Re
C
d
versus Re for smooth cylinders for
different K
Re
C
M
versus Re for smooth cylinders for
different K
Re
Parameters governing drag coefficient C
D

Reynolds number (Re = U D/v)
Keulegan-Carpenter number (K
c
= U
m
T/D)
Roughness (k/D)
Distance between the cylinder and a fixed
boundary (H/D)

where
D = diameter.
H = clearance between the cylinder and a
fixed boundary.



ex. :
pipe
Influence of a fixed boundary on the drag
coefficient of a cylinder in oscillatory
supercritical flow.
C
D
/C
D

Drag coefficients
2
2
D
D D
M M
M
1
C D u
F C D u
2
u u
F 2C A
C A
t t

= =
c c

c c
H cosh k(z h)
u sin t
2 sinh kh
+
= e e
2
u H cosh k(z h)
cos t
t 2 sinh kh
c +
= e e
c
D D
M M
F C H D cosh k(z h)
F C 4 A sinh kh
+
=
D
M
F D
0 nr 0
F A

Large volume structure
When body members are
relatively slender viscous
effects may be important and
the wave/current action may
be expressed as the
sum of a drag force and an
inertia force through the
Morisons equation, The wave
action on a length dz,

2
0.5
4
is a drag force
is the inertia force
D I w D w M
D
I
D
dF dF dF C Du u dz C udz
F
F
t
= + = +
dF
u, u/t
dz
z
When the structural member
moves, a modification to
account for the velocity and
acceleration of the member
(structure) have to be
introduced. The wave action
is then:


dF
u, u/t
dz
z
dz r C u C
D
dz r u r u D C dF
a M D
) (
4
) ( 5 . 0
2
+ =
t

r(z,t)
WAVE FORCES


NON-
BREAKING
BREAKING BROKEN
WALL SAINFLOU
MINIKIN
GODA a.o.
p
m
= w d
b
/2
PILE MORISON
MORISON
+Slamming
MORISON
Circular
CAISSON
MC CAMUS
& FUCHS
MINIKIN -
RUBBLE
STRUCTURE
VAN DER
MEER
VAN DER
MEER
VAN DER
MEER
FLOATING
STRUCTURE
Potential
theory
Slamming Potential
theory

Diffraction Theory
When the structural member
is large compared to the
wave orbital motion
separation does not occur
and the flow can be
modelled by potential
velocity field . All forces are
due to pressure variation
around the body surfaces,
and is obtained by the
integral of the dynamic
pressure p
D
around the
body surface.
( )
2 1
(Bernoulli's eq.)
2
is the surface unit normal directional cosine for the axis
j D j
S
D
j
F p n dS
where
p
t
n j

=
cu
= + Vu
c
}}
|
F
z
dS
n
link dir cos link unit normal
The velocity potential u
0
total incident wave scattered (or diffraction)
velocity potential velocity potential velocity potential
e.g. regular sinusoidal
wave velocity potential
s
u = u + u
( )
0
cosh cosh
Re sin( )
2 cosh 2 cosh
0 at the boundary of the fixed strucure
and usual boundary conditions at the free surface and at the bottom
i kx t
igH ks gH ks
e kx t
kd kd
n
e
e
e e

u = =
`
)
cu
=
c
The velocity potential - wide circular
cylinder (MacCamy and Fuchs)
( )
( ) ( )
( ) ( )
( ) ( )
( ) ( )
1
2 2
2 2
0
2 2
2 1 2 1
2 2
2 1 2 1
sin cos
cosh
1 cos 2
cosh
cos sin
cos(2 1)
m
m m
D m
r a
m
r a m m
m m
m m
Y ka t J ka t
gH ks
p m
t ka kd J ka Y ka
Y ka t J ka t
m
J ka Y ka
e e

o u
t
e e
u

+
=
=
=
+ +
+ +
' '
cu
~ =

' ' c +

( ' '
+
(
' ' +
(

( )
( )
( )
( )
1 (1)
(1)
0
cosh
Re cos
2 cosh
m m i t
m m m
m
m
J ka
H ks
i J kr H kr m e
k kd
H ka
e
e
o u

+
=

(
'

( u =
`
'
(


)

MacCamy & Fuchs

a
F

R

d

s

H
0
r 0
H
cos t;
2
2 gH cosh ks
f(z) A(ka)cos( t )
k cosh kd
=
q = e

= e o
a
12 12
1 1
1
A(k )
J (ka ) Y (ka )
=
+
1
1
J (ka)
tan
Y (ka)
'
o =
'
2
2 gH
F tanh kd A(ka )cos( t )
k

= e o
R kh sinh kd cosh kd 1
d kd sinh kd
+
=
s d z = +
R=moment arm
z

r
u
Ref Table at the
end of
compendium
MacCamy & Fuchs
a
F

R

d

s

H
2
M
0
r 0
f(z) C a u
gHk cosh ks
u cos( t ) (LWT)
2 cosh kd
H
cos t;
2
o
o
=
= t
= e o
e
q = e
2
M
F C gHa tanh kd cos( t )
2
M F R
t
= e o
=
R kh sinh kd cosh kd 1
d kd sinh kd
+
=
s d z = +
R=moment arm
z

r
u
See Figures at
page 254 and at
page 256 for C
M

and o respectively
SUMMARY
MacCamy
Fuchs