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FLEECE
WOOLENS
WORSTEDS
CARDING
CARDING
COMBING
DRAWING
SPINNING
SPINNING
WEAVING
WEAVING
FINISHING
FINISHING
WOOLENS
Short curly fibres carded only, slack twist, Weaker yarns, count less than worsteds
Indistinct patterns, usually plain weave, sometimes twills. Soft finishes, fulling, flocking, steaming nappingcan conceal quality of construction, are easily adulterated. Soft, fuzzy, thick
WORSTEDS
Long, straight fibres
Carded and combed, tight twist, greater tensile strength than woolens, generally yarn dyed Distinct patterns, chiefly twill weaves Hard finished, singed, steamed, unfinished worsteds - napped, adulteration more difficult - fillers would be easily discernible. Firm, wiry or harsh, smooth or rough
YARN
WEAVE
FINISH
WORSTEDS
Wrinkle less than woolens, more durable, hold creases and shape, become shiny with use, feel harsh when next to skin, more resistant to dust.
CHARACTERSTICS
USES
Generally winter use and less expensive than worsteds, sportswear, jackets, sweaters, skirts, blankets. Tweed, homespun, flannel, broadcloth, Shetland, cassimere
TYPICAL FABRICS
Burling or burling irons removal of loose threads and knots Specking remove specks, burrs and other foreign matter.
Objectives contd...
To achieve dimensional stability of the fabric
Relaxation shrinkage felting shrinkage, hygral expansion
functional finishes
Antistatic Mothproofing Anti shrink soil repellents
DRY FINISHES
WET FINISHES
Cleansing finishes
Development finishes
Special finishes
SCOURING
(wet, cleansing finish) (for wool, wool/cotton, blended wool and worsteds)
Objective
Removal of impurities present in grey fabric and to achieve a clean fabric for further processing Impurities
Spinning assistants (10% for woolens/ 2% of worsteds) olefins, neutral oils, emulsifiable mineral oils, Warp sizes - starch, modified cellulose products, Mineral oil stains, warp lubricants, soil and dirt. Unfixed dye residues
Surface hand, fullness, weave density, drape and elasticity. Colors become fresher general appearance of design improves.
Scouring process
Prepare liquor with detergent and add substrate Wash (10 - 90 mins)
Depends on level of soil or impurities, wt. of fabric
---------- -- - -
---------- -- - The contaminants released are transported away from the fibres to avoid redeposition Mechanical action brings about liquor interchange.
- - -- - - - - - - - Old liquor disposes the impurities and new liquor restarts the action. Detergents used in wool scouring anionic and non ionic( phenomenon of adsorption )
Machinery
Open width scouring machines for continuous process Avoid creasing. Rope scouring machines for lots Increased interchange of liquor, Better cleansing action Improved hand Simple jet rapid combined.
MILLING
Objective Consolidate the fabric in both in warp and weft direction. Obtain desired surface felting by mechanical action. Making the fabric fuller and denser Improves strength and hand of the fabric Providing a stable fabric base and makes fabric perfect for producing a raised finishes. Increases thickness and wt./unit area of the fabric Provides fullness to the fabric Shrinks the fabric
Principle of milling
Felting and elastic properties of wool are used to advantage Improved mechanical energy and agitation by saturation of fabric with highly concentrated liquor. 120% moisture on the wt of the fabric. High vol. of liquor buffers mechanical action.
Due to pressure protruding fibres interlock and entangle as they slide on each other towards the root
Types of milling
Soap milling for woolens
Oleic acid soaps maximum softness and full handle stearic acid soaps firm handle Liquor 5- 10% soap soln. 35 C For scoured fabrics M:L ratio =4:1 0.2 0.5 % sulphuric acid/ formic acid/lactic acid Ph- 2 Through rinsing is required Quick, produces stronger fabric but harsh feel
Problems
Too slow milling - Fibre loss and Irregular felting Improper milling may result from uncontrolled width and length Bagged fabrics may balloon excessively and tear.
Principle of carbonizing
chemical differences between the protein of wool and the cellulose and lignins of the vegetable matter. Wool is relatively stable to high concentrations of acid while cellulose is readily hydrolysed by strong acids.
Process
Impregnation
dilute solution of sulphuric acid (3-6%) + wetting agent
acidified fabric
baked at 130-140oC
hydrolysis
OH O OH
OH
OH
OH O
H2SO4
OH
O CH2OH O
OH
OH H
OH
OH
CH2OH
CH2OH
CH2OH
CRYSTALLINE
dehydrocellulose
Dehydrocellulose is removed
Rinse
Problems
Fabrics which contain cotton or rayon effect threads, cannot be carbonized Chemical changes in wool Reduction in yarn strength
Raising
Objective achieve desirable surface characteristics in the wool fabrics Lifting a layer of fibres from the surface of the fabric to form a hairy surface or pile. Improves warmth of the fabric Improves softness and fullness of the fabric Gives mat appearance to the fabrics
Principle
Obtaining surface effects by mechanical processes. Decrease in conduction of heat
Warmth air is a bad conductor of heat Trapped air does not allow heat to move outside. Volume occupied by the fabric is increased only erect fibres contact the skin. number of skin contact point decrease thus
Dry raising
Gives a more open mossy surface Fibre loss is much greater for short fibres Preferred for worsteds. faster than wet raising.
Card wire bent metal wires to catch and lift fibres out of the
plane of the fabric surface . Treats fibres harshly. Cuts lot of fibres instead of pulling gently
Medium and machinery Lubricant used Excessive lubricant, cause slipping. Speed of the fabric and rollers
applications
velours fleece fabrics flannel thermal wear meltons
Shearing
Objectives: i. To remove surface fibres ii. To control height of fibres ends above the surface of the fabric iii. To shorten and control pile height Principle: rapidly rotating cylinder containing 14-20 helical blades to cut the fibres projecting from the fabric surface to an even, or uniform, length.
Critical parameters
i. ii. Cutting angle Brushes (back bush, raising brush, laying brush) iii. Metal objects that may damage the cutting heads
Padding
Process of impregnating fabric with liquor. Objectives: Used to impart special properties to wool fabrics. Following properties are imparted to wool fabrics by padding: i. Anti-felt finishing ii. Improvements in handle and lustre iii. Improving weight of fabric iv. Flame resistant, water repellant, insect resistant finishes
squeezing i. Wet on dry application ii. Wet on wet application Critical parameters and problems: Amount of liquor. Pressure applied at squeeze rollers Composition of roller, covering
Process:
Drying
Objective: Remove water from the wool textiles via the application of heat energy Principle: o Mechanical principle: i. Hydro Extraction:
ii.
Scutcher: it is used when the fabric is treated in rope form. Application of heat Conduction (drum) dryers: Convection dryers: Radiation High frequency drying:
Machinery: Cylinder Drying: (conduction) Advantages: i. Small capital cost ii. Small floor space required Disadvantage: i. Fabric stretching occurs
Radio frequency drying: drying wool bales before sorting. Fabric placed between two electrodes connected to high frequency circuit. Advantages: i. Economical ii. Heat production inside the material iii. Reduction in heating time iv. Uniform drying
Singeing
Objectives: To remove the protruding fibers from the surface of the fabric. Principle: It uses a gas flame to burn away the surface of wool fibers. Advantage of singeing is that it removes fibres right down to the surface of the fabric structure
Process
Critical parameters and problems: i. Harshens the handle of the fabric ii. Piece dyed blends should be singed after dyeing iii. Metal contaminants must not be present iv. The goods must be dried uniformly v. Uniform tension vi. Fabric speed vii. Temperature of the flame
SOME INNOVATIONS AND INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT WOOLENS AND WORSTED FABRICS
WOOL AS A VERSATILE FIBRE can be used all the year round and can be designed for very specific purposes. Woolen sportswear Excellent vapour management of wool, absorbs 35% of moisture of its own weight. Scaly structure of wool and interlocking protein molecules gives it the ability to absorb moisture vapour.
NEW PROTEIN EXTRACTION TECHNOLOGIES FROM WOOL Reconstitution of extracted Keratin protein.
coloration technique employed type of goods seasonal nature of the trade variations in individual processes that may be necessary cost of the sequence in relation to profitability
(iii) Swelling Shrinkage -When hydrophilic fibers absorb water the longitudinal swelling is negligible while the transverse swelling is appreciable. -reversible.
(v) Hygral expansion -as a result of change in regain, and hence relative humidity.
-reversible
Shrinkage treatments
Objectives
Minimize the problems of relaxation shrinkage or Eliminate felting shrinkage
IWS SUPER WASH ProcessApplication of resin (Semi-durable finish) DEGRADATIVE PROCESSES ProcessChlorine gas or liquid chlorine compounds used (to partially dissolve the edges of the wool fiber scales) or Oxidative or reductive agents; or enzymes used
Critical ParametersChemical is destructive, thus should be carefully controlled.
Application of protease enzyme technology in wool processing results in considerable loss of tensile strength To overcome this disadvantage Enzymatic activity has been more targeted to the outer surface of the scales By pretreatment of wool with hydrogen peroxide at alkaline pH in the presence of high concentrations of salt.
Polymer- based process Principle- polymer coats the scales, inhibiting the inter-locking action ProcessApplication of thin polymeric layer to the surface of the fabric. (HERCOSETT is a branded process)
Combined treatments: (Canadian Kroy process- also known as the Chlorine- Hercosett Process.)
Continuous processchlorine treatment in acid medium (using chlorine gas or sodium hypochlorite)
BEFORE
rinsing
resin application (polyamide-epichloridrine resin) softener application
SUPERWOOL
Mothproofing treatments Chemical- Permethrin Stage of treatment- dyeing or scouring Semi- durable finish Critical parameterConcentration level for mothproofing
Anti-felt treatments oxidizing treatment (subtractive treatment) treatment with resins (additive treatment) Stage- most commonly applied on combed tops for specific endproducts (e.g. underwear).
Oxidizing treatments Principle- chemicals used attack the scales of the cuticles and chemically change the external structure of the fibre. Chemicals (chlorine-releasing agents) sodium hypochlorite sodium salt dichloroisocyanurate (most advantageous) active chlorine (no longer used). Chlorine-based agents form absorbable organic chlorine compounds. Alternatives- peroxysulphate, permanganate, enzymes or corona discharge
Reductive
Wool fiber has ability to recover from deformations and maintain its original configuration in space. This can be both a virtue and a problem.
Fibre deformed and bonds stretched: disulphide bonds broken by reducing agent
Physical
By combining reductive treatments with some physical fiber modifications such as pressing to create luster in fabrics or fiber diameter decrease in fibers through stretching
Additive
Involves additions to the fiber rather than true chemical manipulation of the fiber structure but is included to demonstrate the range of possibilities for modifying wool fiber properties. Flame Retardancy Wool fiber is reluctance to burn and tend to form a char Property is enhanced by The exhaustion of titanium hexafluoride or Zirconium hexafluoride into the wool fiber in a manner similar to dyeing Stain repellency PrincipleCoating the fiber surface with a polymer possessing low surface energy or wetting properties Treatment based on PTFE polymers give water, oil and soil repellency without effecting the handle or moisture management properties of wool.
Anti-static finish Chemicals- Quaternary salts, ammonium salts of anti-static agents or softening agents containing fatty acid radicals.
Setting
Objective to stabilize the position of individual fibers in the yarn and fabric. to impart smooth surface and improved handle Principle reduced forces acting at contact points between the fibers Yarn structure and the surface structure of the fabric are at equilibrium
CRABBING Usually for worsted fabrics (lighter weight) ProcessPreparations: -Pieces for crabbing are joined using a whipped seam -End cloths are added to avoid non- uniform treatment of the ends of the batch Fabric is run into boiling water Wound onto the lower roller Once batch is formed, the heating is discontinued Batch is rotated for 10-20 min with the pressure roller applied Batch is rewound and given a further boiling treatment Fabric is run-off and cooled by passing through a bath of cold water. Critical parametersBoiling water at 90-100 centigrade
BEAMING -Mild setting process (on top- dyes or yarn- dyed) to prepare for scouring -May also be done after scouring or dyeing to remove crease marks, to introduce smooth and lustrous surface (known as SMOOTHING) ProcessFabrics are immersed in warm water (containing setting agent) Wound on beam Allowed to cool on the beam
Critical parametersTemperature of water is selected according to the prior process (45 degree C for scoured goods, 60 degree C for piece dyed goods)
POTTING Mainly used for special fabrics (setting billiards cloth) ProcessPreparation: -Winding the fabric on canvas- covered roller -Wrapping the roll in canvas -Tying the ends with cords Rolls placed vertically in a tank of water (60 degree C for 3hrs to 3 days)
Fabric is cooled slowly on the roll (for highest luster) Critical parametersHigh standard of dye fastness (usually dyed with chlorine or premetallised)
FINISH DECATIZING
ProcessTensionless winding of fabric onto 800900nm diameter cylinder
wrapper is raised cotton
steam pressure is released within the large cylinder, so that goods are steamed at atmospheric pressure
water may be injected to ensure that the steam is not superheated. facilities to remove the condensate formed in the interior space of the cylinder
Controls mechanisms-
Wrapper tensionlower tension and softer wrapper. Steam direction Inside to outside is normal, but the reverse direction may also be used Steaming time With increasing time, more non- fast luster is removed Humidity of steam moist steam Post- steaming Two types of post- steaming may be carried out: the goods may be run off still hot but with the steam value closed, the goods may be run off with the steam value still open. Cooling on the roll After steaming, suction is applied and the goods are thoroughly cooled before unwinding. Doffing tension goods should be removed from the roll at lowest possible tension
Controls mechanisms-
Wrapper tensionlower tension and softer wrapper. Steam direction Inside to outside is normal, but the reverse direction may also be used Steaming time With increasing time, more non- fast luster is removed Humidity of steam moist steam Post- steaming Two types of post- steaming may be carried out: the goods may be run off still hot but with the steam value closed, the goods may be run off with the steam value still open. Cooling on the roll After steaming, suction is applied and the goods are thoroughly cooled before unwinding. Doffing tension goods should be removed from the roll at lowest possible tension
LUSTER DECATIZING
MachineryRollers with diameters in range of 250- 400 mm. Special steam installations Cooling after steaming is by suction. Control mechanismsWrapper tension The higher the tension, the greater is the luster Steam direction Inside to-outside flow is normal. Steaming from outside to inside gives a flatter fabric Steaming time A time of 2 min is normal. Longer times give more intense effects. Cooling As for finish decatizing. Post- steaming The goods may be run off in steam and cooled by suction on the doffing roller.
PRESSURE DECATIZING
Machinery-Station for winding (and unwinding ) the goods in a wrapper fabric. -Autoclave in which the fabric is subjected to a (multiple) cycle of steaming and evacuation. -Autoclave has a heated jacket, to prevent excessive condensation on the walls as the steam is introduced . Processheating up of the autoclave prepared roll of goods is introduced on a trolley and the door is sealed the steam valve is opened by an automatic timing device (multiple vacuum- steam cycles) steam enter the chamber by entering the goods from outside to inside until the require pressure is reached (chamber is evacuated before the steam is admitted) final evacuation serves to cool the goods
Control mechanismsType of wrapper Satin wrappers give flat lustrous goods; molleton wrappers give soft, bulky goods, and are used for woolens Wrapper tension Higher tensions give more luster. Steam pressure Higher pressures improve the level of set Steaming time Longer times (up to 6 min) give more set Cooling treatment Prolonged cooling enhances the luster and the level of set and different cooling techniques may be used the goods may be removed in steam cooling without suction on the decatizing roller outside the autoclave cooling by sucking air through the roll outside the autoclave cooling by suction inside the autoclave.
CONTINUOUS DECATIZING
Principle-Autoclave decatizing in a continuous procedure has to overcome the severe problem of sealing the inlet and outlet points for fabric. -Rely on wrapper tension to apply pressure to the goods. ProcessFabric is fed around a rotatable, heated cylinder between a backing cloth and a tension thrust belt. Variety of decatizing effects can be achieved by adjusting the temperature of the belt and cylinder, the tension of the belt, and the moisture content of the backing cloth and fabric.
DRY SETTING
Semi dry continuous decatizing process Machinery-Heated roller -A special back cloth which has an impermeable chemically resistant polymer coating, which allows the goods to be steamed at high temperature.
Plasma treatments
A plasma may be described as a mixture of electrons, ions and free radicals and is produced from an electrical discharge, either under vacuum or atmospheric pressure. Objectiveto increase the wettability (surface energy) of a substrate Advantages: They are surface specific, Totally effluent free