TEARING STRENGTH AND BENDING BEHAVIOUR OF SOME FUNCTIONAL FABRICS

Project Guide Dr. A.Mukhopadhyay Scholar Garima Bhatia

INTRODUCTION
Functional finishes
Aesthetic values In terms of appearance, handle and feel Additional technological properties as per the requirement of customer Value addition to fabrics
Tearing strength and bending properties are adversely affected. Tearing external / mechanical stresses or outside exposure Bending Influences fabric handle, drape, aesthetic, appeal and tailorability. Functional finishes Increase in stiffness and Deterioration in fabric handle and tailorability.

Functional fabrics very expensive.

PROJECT OBJECTIVES
1) 2) To study the tearing strength of the functional fabrics. The fabrics differ in terms of the type of functional finishes such as Water repellent Stiff Wrinkle free Aroma Stain release Soil release Soft Flame retardant Antistatic Antipilling Combination of stain release - wrinkle free, water repellent wrinkle free, soft - wrinkle free and water repellent - flame retardant The composition and type of fabrics (suiting / shirting). To study the bending properties of the functional fabrics.
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3) To study the effect of laundering on the tearing strength of cotton and polyester/cotton blended suiting and shirting fabrics. 4) To study the effect of laundering on the bending properties of cotton and polyester/cotton blended suiting and shirting fabrics.

Type of fabric Cotton suiting Polyester-cotton (35/65%) suiting Cotton shirting Polyester-cotton (35/65%) shirting

Weave 3/1 twill 3/1 twill Plain Plain

Tearing strength of dyed fabrics (gf) Cotton suiting Polyester-cotton suiting Cotton shirting Polyestercotton shirting

warp

weft

warp

weft

warp

weft

warp

weft

2227.2

4236.8

2928

4170

976

652.8

855.3

608

Effect of finish on tearing strength of cotton suiting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 - Flame retardant, 9 Stain release - wrinkle free, 10 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 11 Soft - wrinkle free, 12 Water repellent - flame retardant)
3100 2600 2100 1600

Absolute change (gf)

1100 600 100 -400 -900 -1400 -1900 -2400 -2900 -3400 Finish Warpwise Weftwise 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Effect of finish on tearing strength of polyester-cotton suiting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 - Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 Antistatic, 9 Anti-pilling, 10 Stain release - wrinkle free, 11 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 12 Soft - wrinkle free )
3100 2600 2100 1600

Absolute change (gf)

1100 600 100 -400 -900 -1400 -1900 -2400 -2900 -3400 Finish Warpwise Weftwise 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Effect of finish on tearing strength cotton shirting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 - Flame retardant, 9 Stain release - wrinkle free, 10 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 11 Soft wrinkle free, 12 Water repellent - flame retardant)
760 660 560 460

Absolute change (gf)

360 260 160 60 -40 -140 -240 -340 Finish Warpwise Weftwise 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Effect of finish on tearing strength of polyester-cotton shirting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 - Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 Antistatic, 9 Anti-pilling, 10 Stain release - wrinkle free, 11 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 12 Soft - wrinkle free )
760 660 560

Absolute change (gf)

460 360 260 160 60 -40 -140 -240 -340 Finish Warpwise Weftwise 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Effect of laundering on tearing strength of cotton suiting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 - Flame retardant, 9 Stain release - wrinkle free, 10 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 11 Soft - wrinkle free, 12 Water repellent - flame retardant)
3100 2600 2100 1600 1100

Absolute change (gf)

600 100 -400 -900 -1400 -1900 -2400 -2900 -3400 Finish Warpwise Weftwise 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

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Bending properties of dyed suiting fabrics

Type of fabric

Bending length (cm)

Flexural rigidity (mg/cm)

Bending modulus(kg/cm2)

Face

Back

Face

Back

Face

Back

War p Cotton suiting 1.61

Wef t 1.13

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

Warp

Wef t 8.28

1.25

1.31

113.8 5 92.37

39.52

53.06

62.87

14.99

5.2

6.99

Polyester-cotton suiting

1.45

1.18

1.02

1.34

49.71

32.26

72.52

8.36

4.5

2.92

6.56

Bending properties of dyed shirting fabrics Type of fabric Bending length (cm) Flexural rigidity (mg/cm) Bending modulus (kg/cm2)

warp

weft

warp

weft

warp

weft

Cotton shirting

1.4

0.90

43.39

11.69

14.49

3.9

Polyester-cotton shirting

0.96

0.74

15.58

7.04

6.28

2.83

11

Effect of finish on bending modulus of cotton suiting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 - Flame retardant, 9 Stain release - wrinkle free, 10 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 11 Soft wrinkle free, 12 Water repellent - flame retardant )
25
25

20

20

15

15

Absolute change (kg/cm )

Absolute change (kg/cm )

10

10

0 1 -5 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

0 1 -5 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

-10

-10

-15

-15

-20 Finish Warp wise Weft wise

-20 Finish Warp wise Weft wise

(a) Face side

(b) Back side

12

Effect of finish on bending modulus of polyester-cotton suiting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 - Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 Antistatic, 9 Anti-pilling, 10 Stain release - wrinkle free, 11 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 12 Soft - wrinkle free )
25
25

20

20

15

15

Absolute change (kg/cm )

Absolute change (kg/cm )

10

10

0 1 -5 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

0 1 -5 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

-10

-10

-15

-15

-20 Finish Warp wise Weft wise

-20 Finish Warp wise Weft wise

(a) Face side

(b) Back side

13

Effect of laundering on bending modulus of cotton suiting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 - Flame retardant, 9 Stain release - wrinkle free, 10 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 11 Soft wrinkle free, 12 Water repellent - flame retardant )
25

25

20

20

15

15

Absolute change (kg/cm )

Absolute change (kg/cm )

10

10

0 1 -5 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

0 1 -5 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

-10

-10

-15

-15

-20 Finish warpwise weftwise

-20 Finish warpwise weftwise

(a) Face side

(b) Back side

14

Effect of laundering on bending modulus of cotton shirting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 - Flame retardant, 9 Stain release - wrinkle free, 10 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 11 Soft wrinkle free, 12 Water repellent - flame retardant )
10 7 4

Absolute change (kg/cm )

1 -2 -5 -8 -11 -14 -17 -20 Finish warpwise weftwise 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

15

Effect of finish on flexural rigidity of cotton suiting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 - Flame retardant, 9 Stain release - wrinkle free, 10 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 11 Soft - wrinkle free, 12 Water repellent flame retardant )
205 185 165 145
Absolute change (mg/cm)

205 185 165 145 125 105 85 65 45 25 5

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

125
Absolute change (mg/cm)

105 85 65 45 25 5 -15 -35 -55 -75 Finish Warp wise Weft wise

-15 -35 -55 -75

10

11

12

Finish Warp wise Weft wise

(a) Face side

Back side

16

Effect of finish on flexural rigidity of polyester-cotton suiting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 - Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 Antistatic, 9 Anti-pilling, 10 Stain release - wrinkle free, 11 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 12 Soft - wrinkle free )
205 185 165 145
Absolute change (mg/cm) Absolute change (mg/cm)

205 185 165 145 125 105 85 65 45 25 5

125 105 85 65 45 25 5 -15 -35 -55 -75 Finish Warp wise Weft wise 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

-15 -35 -55 -75

10

11

12

Finish Warp wise Weft wise

(a) Face side

(a) Back side

17

Effect of laundering on flexural rigidity of cotton suiting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 - Flame retardant, 9 Stain release - wrinkle free, 10 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 11 Soft wrinkle free, 12 Water repellent - flame retardant )
205 185 165 145
Absolute change (mg/cm)

205 185 165 145

Absolute change (mg/cm)

125 105 85 65 45 25 5 -15 -35 -55 -75 Finish warpwise weftwise 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

125 105 85 65 45 25 5 -15 -35 -55 -75 Finish warpwise weftwise 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

(a) Face side

(b) Back side

18

Effect of finish on bending length of cotton suiting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 - Flame retardant, 9 Stain release - wrinkle free, 10 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 11 Soft wrinkle free, 12 Water repellent - flame retardant )
0.85 0.65 0.45
Absolute change (cm)

0.85 0.65 0.45

Absolute change (cm)

0.25 0.05 1 -0.15 -0.35 -0.55 -0.75 -0.95 Finish Warp wise Weft wise 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

0.25 0.05 1 -0.15 -0.35 -0.55 -0.75 -0.95 Finish Warp wise Weft wise 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

(a) Face side

(b) Back side

19

Effect of finish on bending length of polyester-cotton suiting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 - Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 Antistatic, 9 Anti-pilling, 10 Stain release - wrinkle free, 11 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 12 Soft - wrinkle free )
0.85 0.65 0.45 0.25 0.05 -0.15 -0.35 -0.55 -0.75 -0.95 Finish Warp wise Weft wise 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Absolute change (cm)
Absolute change (cm)

0.85 0.65 0.45 0.25 0.05 -0.15 -0.35 -0.55 -0.75 -0.95 Finish Warp wise Weft wise 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

(a) Face side

(b) Back side

20

Effect of laundering on bending length of cotton suiting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 - Flame retardant, 9 Stain release - wrinkle free, 10 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 11 Soft wrinkle free, 12 Water repellent - flame retardant )
0.85
0.85

0.65

0.65

0.45
Absolute change (cm)

0.45

Absolute change (cm)

0.25

0.25

0.05 1 -0.15 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

0.05 1 -0.15 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

-0.35

-0.35

-0.55

-0.55

-0.75

-0.75

-0.95 Finish warpwise weftwise

-0.95 Finish warpwise weftwise

(a) Face side

(b) Back side

21

Effect of laundering on bending length of cotton shirting ( 1 Water repellent, 2 Stiff, 3 Wrinkle free, 4 Aroma, 5 Stain release, 6 Soil release, 7 Soft, 8 - Flame retardant, 9 Stain release - wrinkle free, 10 Water repellent - wrinkle free, 11 Soft wrinkle free, 12 Water repellent - flame retardant )
0.54 0.44 0.34 0.24 0.14 0.04 -0.06 -0.16 -0.26 -0.36 -0.46 Finish warpwise weftwise 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Absolute change (cm)

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CONCLUSIONS
There is an increase in tearing strength in soft finish while a decrease in tearing strength in flame retardant finish. Increase in tearing strength is due to use of softeners and lubricating agents which leads to increase in slippage and grouping of yarns. Polyester-cotton (suiting/shirting) fabrics higher changes in tearing strength than cotton (suiting/shirting) fabrics.

The effect of finish is greater on suiting fabric than shirting fabric.

Stiff finish large increase in bending modulus Soft finish decrease in bending modulus to a large extent. Laundering leads to a decrease in tearing strength, bending modulus, flexural rigidity and bending length.

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Thank you !

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