SAMPLING AND PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT

ACTIVITIES :
This department is basically responsible for developing the patterns and various samples, which may vary from buyer to buyer. It is the most important aspect of business. Hence, utmost care must be taken to do an excellent job in sampling. It is the department to develop the pattern for the style based on the measurements and style details given in the spec sheet provided by the buyer. Shrinkage and shade test is done in the testing laboratory .The pattern is then altered according to the shrinkage of the fabric. Patterns are developed through CAD by the pattern master, and this plays an important role in determining the orders. All the samples made by the department are approved by the merchandizer or the buyer. Samples, must be made in time and quality standards must be abided by while due care should be taken to keep commercial angle in mind. GSM/ colors/ prints/ labeling etc should be as specified and specific of the instructions received from the buyer in development of new samples. Comments are given in by the buyer to the merchandiser,and sampling department will make the necessary changes accordingly,to meet the buyers requirements and obtain approval. This department has its own SNLS, DNLS, fusing, flat lock, over lock machines Each operator is responsible of making a whole sample garment by themselves.

FLOW PROCESS :
RECQUISITION SHEET (Tech pack,trimdetails,wash fabric details,fabric shrinkage)

UNCONFIRMED ORDERS

CONFIRMED ORDERS

APPROXIMATE SHRINKAGE ADDED ON PATTERN

CPT OF SAMPLE YARDAGE,TEST SHRINKAGE 50x

COSTING CONSUMPTION + MINIMARKER DEVELOPED

MAKE PATTERN

PROTO/FIT DEVELOPMENT SAMPLES / WASH SAMPLES

QC CHECK

SALESMAN SAMPLE (SMS) / PHOTOSHOOT

BULK FABRIC SHRINKAGE REPORT FROM TESTING LAB

PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE

QC CHECK

SIZE SET

QC CHECK

SUBMIT FOR BUYER APPROVAL

PATTERN CHECK

START BULK

 After QC check if passes will be submitted to buyer for approval, and if failed sample will be remade.

For making every sample,arecquisition sheet is received and trim details and fabric swatch .For size set a trim card is received from the concerned merchant.

DETAILS OF SAMPLES :

Development sample: Samples developed for a particular buyer based on his sample order sheet are treated as Development Samples. Generally most of the specifications are provided by the buyer but can also be given by the design department of the company for their in house designs.

Proto/ Counter sample: This is developed according to the indications sent by the buyer. This may not be in the actual raw material and is just an interpretation of ideas. This is a sample made by the manufacturer that reflects the styling features, fabric, trims and construction details. A Counter Sample may have resulted from a request made by Chicos or may have originated from the vendors own product line or collection.

Fit sample: This sample is an actual representation of the measurements provided by the buyer to check the fit of the garment as the name suggests. Photo sample: This garment, which is sent to mail order and catalogue houses, is made in actual raw materials with the correct specifications. The buyer takes its photograph to enable the customer to get an idea about the merchandise.

Size set: In the size set, the garments are stitched in each size. In this sample the measurement, color, combination, style, quality and finishing should be perfect as specified in the spec sheet. The size set samples will be stitched only after the confirmation of the order. It is done before the bulk production.

Pre production sample: The PP sample is made for all sizes with actual fabrics and trims. This is mainly for the purpose of end products production

study. After final approval and receiving production order, all thepatterns, reference garments and files containing specification sheet is sent to the Production Department. a sample made by the manufacturer for a specific order that reflects the style ordered. The garment must be made with approved bulk fabric (correct color, print and hand feel) and approved bulk trims (correct quality, size, color and correct placement/size/quality of embellishments). The sample submitted must be suitable to fit on a live model, therefore all measurements must be within tolerance and match construction. Vendors suggestion for improved construction/quality/specs should be noted on the PP ID tag.

PP TAG
DOCUMENTS USED/RECORDS MAINTAINED :
Internal PO Spec Sheet Production File

MARKER MAKING:
Marker making is the process of developing the diagram consisting of all garment components in their required cut quantity and the required sizes which is then superposed on the top of a fabric lay (superposed fabric plies) as a guide for cutting these plies of fabric into the required component parts of the final garment. Marker Planning is done to utilize the minimum fabric while cutting the desired number of pieces from the lays. It can be done manually as well as through CAD. The job of the pattern master in case of CAD marking is reduced as he does not have to check whether all the pattern parts are placed and whether all the notches are properly marked. CAD marking is usually more efficient than manual marking, except for some cases like check fabric, and for fabrics having complicated designs.

The marker planning done here is mainly through CAD, manual marking is carried out for fabrics with checks, stripes those that are used for waistband interlining, pocket bags. The plotted markers developed through CAD are placed on the lay to enable the cutting of the garment parts. In case of manual marking the pattern pieces are developed through CAD, plotted on a sheet, and the sheet is cut into individual cut components which are then placed on the top ply of the fabric lay to make a marker, through trial and error methods for optimum marker efficiency and maximum fabric utilization with less waste. The cutting master determines the lay width and the lay length depending on the order quantity, styling of the garment and the amount of the fabric.

GERBERS ACCUMARK CAD SOFTWARE

It is the apparel industry's leading pattern design, grading and marker making software. AccuMark enables designers to apply their distinctive talents, individual
techniques and creativity in a computer-aided environment that offers all the flexibility of manual pattern making.

Features of the software:

Accelerate pattern design.

New functionality to easily create and edit darts All measurements update with pattern changes Improved annotation capability Multiple asymmetrical folds Grade pleats and merge pieces more easily More choices for turn back hems Modify grading on multiple points and pieces simultaneously

Easy Planning

Facilitates creation of simple cut plans Open models directly from AccuMark Explorer Plans the markers and generates orders automatically for maximum material utilization

Calculates model combinations based on the sizes, quantities and fabric type in each marker

Submit orders to Batch to automate process Helpful to quickly calculate fabric usage

 Easy Order
Create orders and process markers quickly and easily Experienced users can define order templates and select lay limit options for each piece

Easy Marking
Import fabric prints at actual scale, define repeats and use this information to match pattern pieces visually Enter fabric weight to calculate material costs more accurately, particularly with knit fabrics User configurable work area, including colors, hot keys and tool bars.

Accelerate nesting.
AccuMark helps us to generate the most efficient nests to optimize material utilization and reduce material costs. Accelerate the digitizing process by typing pattern piece data into a simple form in the AccuMark system rather than entering character by character at the digitizer

GERBER PLOTTER and DIGITIZER:

It is a high speed plotting system to plot and cut patterns. It includes solution to quickly transform hard patterns into digital format for use in CAD systems. The GERBER plotter offers state-of-the-art inkjet technology. It boasts high productivity and performance at a low cost of ownership.

The GERBER plotter is also available in a 2.2-meter-wide configuration.

Features: Fast, quality plotting.

The GERBER plotter plots at speeds up to 95-square-meters per hour at 300 dpi print resolution with an accuracy of +/- 0.1%.

Low maintenance
Gerber plotter uses proven HP inkjet technology and standard, off-the-shelf HP inkjet cartridges. The system remotely monitors ink and paper usage and issues an alert when it detects low ink or paper levels.

Versatile
The system plots on a variety of materials including recycled paper, bond, Kraft paper and Mylar. Choose to plot face-out or face-in, with or without taking paper up onto a roll.