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com June 2001

TM
Textile Month
The International Textile Magazine

Techtextil 2001
PLUS
Fabric finishing
Rapier Weaving

Silicone superiority
SILICONE softening agents have
been used in Asian textile
processing for more than 20
years, known for their ability to
deliver superior performance in
softening and a smooth, slippery
feel to textile fabrics. While they
are currently estimated as having a
50% share of the textile softener
market (the other 50% being
organic formulations), it has only
been in the last few years that
silicone softeners have begun to
see widespread use. As a result,
formulators are less experienced
with the unique features and
characteristics of these products.
Although they are recognised as
delivering premium softness,
conventional amino silicone
formulations have not been
without their limitations.They are
process-sensitive and must be
emulsified using specific techniques
to ensure stability. In addition,
Figure 1: Hand Evaluation Results
4.5
4
3.5
3 80
2.5
2
1.5
Rating (0-5)
1
0.5
0 0
Polyester woven P’cotton woven Cotton woven
Reprinted from TM June 2001
Finishing
Asia is now realising the benefits of a
new balanced softener formulation,
writes Dr WP Mei of Dow Corning
silicones are not compatible with
some textile additives and process
aids (certain permanent press
resins, for example), which can
lead to spotting problems if not
properly applied. In most cases,
processing difficulties and
compatibility problems can be
avoided with appropriate product
background and experience, but
silicone researchers have
continued to investigate new
product formulations to provide
more stable materials with
broader resin compatibility.
New formulation
To address these issues, Dow
Corning researchers have
developed a balanced softener
formulation with significantly
improved process stability and
wider compatibility with common
process aids and performance
additives.The organofunctional
material demonstrates high shear
stability, allowing it to be easily
formulated into a stable
microemulsion that can be applied
via jet dye exhaustion.
As one of the only silicone
softeners on the market that is
suitable for application by either
jet dye exhaustion or roller
padding, Dow Corning’s 8803
Softener can be added to the
same bath with durable press
finishing resins and can be used
for fabric softening in pigment
printing operations.The
organofunctional silicone fluid
provides softening performance
nearly equal to conventional
aminosilicone materials.The new
formulation imparts soft hand to
many types of fabric, including
woven cotton, cotton knit, woven
polyester and woven
cotton/polyester blends.
(See Figure 1.)
Cotton Knit
Supplied with a non-volatile
content of at least 95%, the new
softener has exhibited even less
yellowing than current
aminofunctional materials, for
improved fabric whiteness.The
whiteness index was determined
using a Hunterlab Colorimeter,
with an average of five readings
taken as a result. (Figure 2.)
The 8803 Softener has been
shown to be less hydrophobic
than current aminosilicone
softeners, as indicated in water
absorption testing. For example, a
drop of water placed on woven
cotton fabric treated with the
new softener will be absorbed in
about two minutes, whereas a
water drop on the same fabric
treated with conventional
aminosilicone will stand for more
than 30 minutes. Water
absorption test results are
illustrated in Figure 3.
Key
to graphs:
DOW CORNING 8803 Softener
Aminosilicone
Blank
Figure 2: Whiteness Index
(100% Cotton Knit)
90
70
60
50
40
30
Whiteness Index
20
10
 Finishing

Figure 3: Water Absorption Test Results prior to its initial use.The
equipment must also be cleaned
35 regularly to prevent accumulation
of any dyestuffs, process auxiliaries
30 or fibrous material.
After draining off all residual
25 water, the machine can be refilled
and started. Next, the emulsion
20 and acetic acid should be charged,
and the bath heated to 40°C.The
Absorption Time/minutes
machine should be run with the
bath heated to 90°C for sixty
minutes, then drained.The fabric is
rinsed with clean water
(neutralised by the addition of
acetic acid), then the bath should
be drained and rinsed again before
unloading the fabric for drying.
New advancements in silicone
softeners have led to the

15
machine should be run development of a unique
continuously for 20 minutes, then formulation designed specifically for
drained of water, after which the improved application process
10
fabric can be unloaded for drying stability and resin compatibility
and the equipment should over conventional aminosilicones,
5
be cleaned. without compromising the soft
0 A simple test of the emulsion hand and silky feel for which
Cotton woven P’cotton woven Polyester woven can then be used to determine its silicone products are known. Dow
suitability for jet dye exhaustion. It Corning 8803 Softener can be
Emulsification should be prepared by diluting to a easily formulated into a stable
Table 1
8803 Softener 15% Like other silicone fluids, the 2% solution, then moving to a microemulsion, which can be
SOFTANOL 70 15% organofunctional silicone 50°C bath and mechanically stirring applied via jet dye exhaustion or
SOFTANOL 1202 2.5%
Acetic acid 0.2% formulation must be emulsified to at 3000 rpm for 30 minutes. roller padding. As a result of its
Water 77.3% allow application via water-based At the end of this cycle, no oil broad compatibility, it can also be
1 Secondary alcohol polyoxyehtylene
processes. Known to be one of the should be observable on the applied in the same bath with
alkylether containing 7 EOs (HLB 12.1). keys to product stability, the solution's surface. durable press finish resins.Treated
2 Secondary alcohol polyoxyehtylene emulsification process is an fabrics have shown less yellowing
alkylether containing 12 EOs (HLB 14.5).
Softanol is a trademark of Nippon important step in assuring Durable press finishing and reduced hydrophobicity
Shokubai Kagaku Kogyo Co. efficient operation. The new softener formulation is when compared to conventional
For emulsification suited to the suitable for durable press finishing aminofunctional silicone
Table 2 Asian market through a systems using glyoxal resin/MgCl2 softener formulations.
Fabric:liquor 1:10
20% solids emulsion 2-7% owf phase-changed process using or DMDHEU resin/MgCl2. An The family of silicone polymers
(depends on type of fabric) surfactants, the ratios and mixing example of the process for wrinkle includes an extremely diverse
Acetic acid 0.05 g/l
operations shown in Table 1 should free finishing of cotton, rayon or group of materials, with literally
be strictly observed. blends of the two would be as thousands of variations. Silicones
Table 3 First, the silicone softener should shown in Table 3. are engineering materials which
Formulation
Ciba Knittex Fel1
be mixed with the Softanol 70, combine certain characteristics of
(DMDHEU, 70% active) 30-50 g/l followed by charging an acetic acid Re-dyeing both organic and inorganic
Dow Corning 8803 Softener 0.1% and water 3.5-4% mixture Occasionally the finished colour of compounds, at times able to offer
(20% solids) 10-30 g/l
PE emulsion 5-10 g/l and stirring until a phase change is a fabric is unacceptable and must the most desirable properties of
MgCl2 9-15 g/l observed. Next, charge 50% of the be re-dyed. If the fabric has been both. Copolymers based on
Process water and mix until the emulsion treated with a silicone softener, it methyl silicone and polyether
Padding ratio 60-90% becomes homogeneous, then must be removed with stripping chemistries are also popular in
Bath temperature Ambient
charge the Softanol 120 and mix agents specially designed for textile processing. Like any
Drying and setting well. Finally, charge the acetic acid removing silicones. Because of its formulation technology, silicone
1st stenter zone temperature ~110°C
2nd stenter zone temperature ~130°C
0.1% and the rest of the water, and water repellent nature, silicone will materials require a basic
3rd stenter zone temperature mix well. prevent the fabric from being understanding of their physical
(and above stenter) ~150-180°C re-dyed evenly. properties and effective processing
Total treating time 40-70 seconds
Jet dye exhaustion For cotton, poly/cotton and techniques to reach optimum
A key feature of the new silicone polyester fabrics treated with the performance.
Table 4
Formulation
softener formulation is the fact that new organosilicone softener, the Dow Corning develops,
Fabric:liquor 1:12 it can be applied using a jet dye following formulation is manufactures and markets a
Dow Corning 2-2862 exhausting process as a result of its recommended: See Table 4 diverse range of silicon-based
Stripping Agent 12 g/l
Dow Corning 2-2863 high shear stability.The suggested For lycra-containing fabric materials. Currently offering more
Stripping Agent 22 g/l formulation for the process is treated with the new than 10,000 products to
NaOH 2 g/l
shown in Table 2. organosilicone softener, the customers around the world, the
The first step is to ensure that all following formulation is company is a global leader in
Table 5
Formulation removable dyestuff is eliminated recommended when re-dyeing is silicon-based technology, with
Fabric:liquor 1:10 from the dyed fabric, once the necessary: See Table 5 shares equally owned by The Dow
Dow Corning 2-28621
Stripping Agent 2 g/l desired colour is obtained. A jet For any of the fabrics mentioned, Chemical Company and Corning
Dow Corning 2-28632 dye machine which has never been the process is the same.Water, Incorporated. More than half of
Stripping Agent 2 g/l
Na2CO3 10 g/l used for softener exhaustion must fabric, NaOH and stripping agents Dow Corning’s sales are outside
be cleaned with a scouring agent should be loaded in that order.The the United States. TM

Reprinted from TM June 2001