Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management

Emerald Article: Youth identity ownership from a fashion marketing perspective Tracy Diane Cassidy, Hannah van Schijndel

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To cite this document: Tracy Diane Cassidy, Hannah van Schijndel, (2011),"Youth identity ownership from a fashion marketing perspective", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. 15 Iss: 2 pp. 163 - 177 Permanent link to this document: http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/13612021111132618 Downloaded on: 15-05-2012 References: This document contains references to 25 other documents To copy this document: permissions@emeraldinsight.com This document has been downloaded 2001 times.

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Youth identity ownership from a fashion marketing perspective

Tracy Diane Cassidy and Hannah van Schijndel
Department of Clothing Design and Technology, Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester, UK
Abstract
Purpose The purpose of this paper is to investigate the inuence that marketing has on teenagers and their development of identity and question the ethical implications of this inuence. It aims to explore the extrinsic identity and the intrinsic identity using Eriksons model of identity versus role confusion; to identify passive and active personality types within adolescents; and to establish the importance of local community compared with web-based communities. Design/methodology/approach The views of developmental theorists are discussed and correlations between teenagers characterised as active; those who would be identied as being cool, and passive characters; those lacking cool are drawn. This is then applied to the theories of the self and the empty self, a concept arguably used by marketers who wish to encourage notions of the empty self through negative references to being uncool, with the aim of stimulating a demand for the cool sustenance that they supply. Data were gathered from a questionnaire survey comprising 79 secondary school teenage pupils. Findings The ndings, though limited to only one locality, show that the majority of the sample was identied as being passive, implying that the majority of these teenagers were aspirational in their quest for cool. In addition, more of the participants felt a part of web-based communities such as Bebo than of their local community. The study suggests that marketers, ethically or otherwise, are able to target the passive majority by encouraging feelings of being un-cool encouraging the empty self to then prot from the sales of a cool fullling product. Research limitations/implications The localisation and survey sample size impose limitations on the generalisation of the ndings for a national or even a regional location. Also, the primary research provides only a snap shot of the tastes and personality traits of individuals taking part in the survey at that point in time that are susceptible to change as is the denition of cool. However, the evaluation of the ndings offer some interesting and valuable indications of support and contradictions to the theories discussed. Originality/value Through an understanding of the strength of the inuence marketing has on a teenage demographic and the importance that the teenagers surveyed attached to social network sites, some indication is given of the quest for identity of the youths of today in a UK locality. This study therefore provides a small but valuable stepping stone for a much larger investigation of this concept on a regional or national scale. Keywords United Kingdom, Youth, Consumer behaviour, Social networking sites, Fashion, Identity, Marketing strategy Paper type Research paper

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Received January 2010 Revised January 2010 Accepted May 2010

1. Introduction It is thought that a teenagers expression of identity is largely through the clothing they wear, with style usually indicating membership of a group or tribe (Balet, 2006). This tribalisation may be inferred in a growth in the teenage clothing sector (Mintel, 2003). Even though this growth was later predicted to shrink again due to the more recent economic recession, for marketers, teenagers would still appear to be increasingly lucrative

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management Vol. 15 No. 2, 2011 pp. 163-177 q Emerald Group Publishing Limited 1361-2026 DOI 10.1108/13612021111132618

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consumers (Mintel, 2009). Moreover, teenagers are a target for considerable marketing investment as fashion companies attempt to gain long-term loyalty from potentially afuent emerging adults. The short- and long-term inuence that marketers have on this highly receptive group is undeniably powerful (Solomon, 2004). This study explores the teenagers quest for identity in a local community and how they redene themselves as adults through the constant change in trends imposed by the fast paced fashion industry. The inuences that shape a teenagers choices and the wider challenge that they face to conform to the concept of being cool are explored. In this study, cool is interpreted in its broadest context in relation to being fashionable through clothing, music tastes and social community groups that participants of the survey identied themselves with. While attempts were made through the survey to ascertain individuals understanding of the meaning of cool due to its subjective nature and transient associations with aesthetic style and appearance, and attitudes and behaviours which may often be attached to or implied by marketing, product availability and societal inuences at any one time, the meaning still remains uid and supercial, thus imposing a limitation in the depth of this research. In addition, through a literature review, the study looks at the role of the cool-hunter and internet marketing techniques used to inuence teenagers, before evaluating the ethics of such practices. What identity is and why the quest for identity is most prevalent during adolescence is highlighted. The secondary research considers the views and suggested concepts of developmental theorists such as Erikson and Loevinger (Kroger, 1996), and correlates these views with the role of the cool-hunter and that of marketing in general, thus exploring in theory, the strength of the inuence marketing has on the teenage demographic and the ethical implications of this. The evaluation draws upon the theories discussed to evaluate the signicance of the intrinsic and extrinsic factors in the development of identity in adolescence. Eriksons identity versus role confusion model (Kroger, 1996) and Goldsmith et al. (1999) self-concept study were the key models used to explore the intrinsic development of identity within adolescence, though it is acknowledged that other models exist including those by authors Herbert Blumer and Ted Polhemus. The extrinsic development of identity was considered through the impact that popular culture, the role of the family and social groups have on a teenagers development. Early ndings suggested an apparent need for teenagers to feel cool and appear cool and that the industry responds to this supply and demand opportunity, thus suggesting that cool is a commercial commodity. The notion of commoditised cool is further explored through an example of an advertising campaign observed on a social networking site. The study suggests that marketing methods promote Cushmans (1990) concept of the empty self, at least within the selected teenage demographic surveyed, that essentially encourages feelings of emptiness before offering a sustenance that may appear lling. However, it can be argued that this sustenance is under-nourishing and thus creates a perpetual hunger for what is deemed by marketers as cool. 1.1 Aim and objectives The aims of this study were to investigate the inuence marketing has on a teenage demographic as they develop their identities and to question the ethical implications involved. This was achieved through exploring: . the intrinsic inuences identied as personality traits, the self and the empty self concept;

. . .

the extrinsic inuences identied as family, social groups and popular culture; the affect of these factors on the development of identity during adolescence; and The key marketing methods used to reach teenagers and their quests for identity with consideration to the ethics behind the commoditisation of the concept of cool.

Youth identity ownership

1.2 Methodology A questionnaire survey was used to explore and in part, measure the intrinsic and extrinsic development of teenage identity in a suburban locality through three key factors: identity and group association; active/passive identities and; the importance of community. A questionnaire survey was conducted in a large UK secondary comprehensive school using a sample of 79 pupils aged 12-18, and of mixed gender, ethnicity and social grouping. The questionnaire used a Lickert scale and a funnelling technique with the rst question being very general enquiring into the participants musical taste and each question thereafter probing further and deeper (Oppenheim, 1992). The questionnaire is shown in Figure 1. The type of graphic design that teenagers are generally exposed to on popular social networking sites was used for the questionnaire design using a similar font to that used on the highly popular site Bebo (Cellen-Jones, 2008). The length of the questionnaire was deliberately short and appropriate popular teenage
Who I Am . Name: Form:

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Please answer the following 5 questions by circling the relevant bullet points or numbers 1. What type of music do you like best? Please circle one A. Indie / Guitar B. Rock / Heavy Metal C. Emo D. Soul E. Hip / Hop / Rap G. Dance / House H. Pop I. Drum & Bass J. Garage O. Other F. R&B

2. What group do you think your friends and class mates would describe you as being part of? Please circle one A. Trendy B. Goth C. Emo D. Chav E. Skater F. Greb G. Punk O. Other O. Other

3. Why do you think this is? Is it your A. Personality B. Clothes C. Music preference

D. All three

4. Please state how strongly you agree/disagree with the following statements. Please circle the relevant number using the following key 1 = Strongly Agree, 2 = Agree, 3 = Disagree, 4 = Strongly Disagree A1. My friends are really important to me; they understand me more than my family 1 2 3 4 B2. I dont like having to make a decision, Im indecisive 1 2 3 4 C3. It would be embarrassing if people in my class criticised my clothes and hair 1 2 3 4 D4. My friends can usually persuade me to go out, even when I dont feel like it 1 2 3 4 E5. My friends and family are equally important to me 1 2 3 4 F6. I have my own unique style, people either like it or not, I dont care 1 2 3 4 G7. break time is rubbish if I cant find my friends 1 2 3 4 H8. Im a good judge of character, I can tell what sort of person they are by looking at them 1 2 3 4 I9. I dont need friends or family, Im happy on my own 1 2 3 4 J10. I talk to everyone even if they are much younger/older or from a different social group than me 1 2 3 4 5. Please read the following statements and circle the relevant number using the key below, 1 = Strongly Agree, 2 = Agree, 3 = Disagree, 4 = Strongly Disagree K11. I feel very much a part of my local town/village community 1 2 3 4 L12. I feel very much a part of my school community 1 2 3 4 M13. I feel very much a part of web communities such as Bebo, Facebook and My Space 1 2 3 4

Figure 1. The questionnaire

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terminology was used. Observational research was also carried out on web-based social networking sites such as Bebo to explore the type of marketing that teenagers are generally being exposed to. 2. Identity Identity is viewed as a process that develops through ones life span and is heightened at the stage of adolescence. Kroger (1996) questions the concept of adolescence and the quest for identity during this period of development, suggesting that adolescence is a construct of western culture. Developmental theorist Erikson (1970) proposed identity versus role confusion with passive or active sensibilities as the stage of identity development in adolescents (Kroger, 1996). Passive is dened as the acceptance of role confusion or foreclosed acceptance of others choices, recommendations or expectations. The characteristics of a passive adolescent include traits such as: low self-esteem, low social adjustment, limited analytical ability, lack of family interaction and affection. In contrast, the active adolescent is described as warm, compassionate, ethically consistent, with high self-esteem, secure attachments, socially mobile, socially active and capable of probing and expressing feelings (Archer, 1994). 2.1 Intrinsic development of identity the self and the empty self The intrinsic development of identity can be examined through the concept of the self and the empty self. Krogers (1996) argument that adolescence is a construct of Western culture is based upon a concept lacking community, tradition and shared meaning having created conditions for an empty self. Kroger cites Cushman (1990) who suggests that the only way to ll up this void is through consumer products, and that advertising and psychotherapy are the two professions responsible in an individuals attempt to heal the empty self. Chaplin and Roedder (2005) investigated the development of self-brand connection in children and adolescents. Their ndings support the case that identity is intrinsically linked, and even dened by consumer products in adolescents. Furthermore, a correlation between the cognitive developments of an early adolescent and their understanding of brands on a deeper conceptual level is suggested. Their study concluded that the use of clothing brands was the preferred method of answering the question who am I? and demonstrates how a teenager makes a direct link to the self and clothing. 2.2 Extrinsic development of identity the role of the family According to Papini and Sebby (1988) the role of the family has a large inuence on teen identity (Archer, 1994). Papini suggests that the quality of the parent/adolescent attachment can affect the identity exploration of a teenager, where a secure background provides the adolescent with a safe foundation in which to explore and make self-chosen commitments. An adolescent from a secure background could therefore be identied as active according to Eriksons (1970) model and one could deduce from the active prole that the characteristics encapsulate what it is to be cool. Furthermore, it is the active adolescent that would appeal more to a marketer to promote their products. By default, the passive adolescent is the most susceptible to marketing as they search to become cool, or to be perceived as being cool as a means of gaining acceptance by a group. The search for sustenance in the quest for identity becomes a quest for cool resulting in the passive adolescent buying products modelled by their cool active counterparts.

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2.3 The role of social groups A second extrinsic factor believed to inuence the development of identity during adolescence is social groups and the shift in balance between the self and others throughout the progressive stages of adolescence. Loevinger (1976) describes the identity quest in teenagers as the shift back and forth between self-interest and conformity within social groups. This is supported by Kegans (1982) view that through adolescence identity formation is lost, then reformed, a process he suggests that uctuates between a balance of emphasis in the self and others. Young adolescents are only concerned with their own interests and needs; however the mid-adolescent can reect on their own interests and co-ordinate them with others. In late adolescence, the balance returns back to an emphasis on the self (Kroger, 1996). Through the shifts in balance the needs of the teenager change through adolescence and therefore marketing approaches need to adapt to t this changing nature of the teenage identity development. For the mid-teenage demographic, the literature suggests an increased reliance on group membership. Cotterell (1996) supports this and suggests that during adolescence relationships can be viewed as horizontal social groups, such as peers and friends and vertical social relations, such as teachers and parents that are seen as secondary. This would suggest that the most accessible method to teenagers is on a peer level. 2.3.1 Types of social groups. There are different factions of groups that a teenager may belong to. Cliques are tight knit groups of around three to six members of generally the same age and sex. This type of group is thought to be prevalent between the ages of 10 and 14 (Cotterell, 1996). It is through cliques that one can identify a similarity in clothing and appearance. When describing the shopping habits and trends of teenagers, Mintel (2003) reported that only 13 per cent are likely to buy the same item as a friend. Whilst clothing and hair are crucial to provide a sense of belonging in terms of being part of a clique, the individual will seek some differentiation within the parameters of the groups dress code, even if it is merely a difference in colour or pattern. An important group in terms of marketing is the reputation-based group. Balet (2006) explores the concept of reference groups through trends adopted by teenagers from European schools and suggests that when studying individuals, it becomes evident that the specic signs, labels and icons also reect the code of the tribe to which that individual belongs to. There is therefore a contradiction between wanting to express individuality and having the strong need to adopt the codes of their group which underlines their quest for identity. 2.4 The role of popular culture and subcultures A third extrinsic factor is the role of popular culture and the formation of subcultures. From the safe platform of belonging to a group, the membership of which is communicated through the extrinsic factors, such as a type of clothing, Barnard (1996) argues that individuals are able to construct an identity by means of communication. Concurring with popular developmental theorists concepts that teenagers require a secure and safe foundation from which to explore and experiment with their identity. Balet (2006) touches on what inuences each tribal group listing music, models, ideals and ethnic sensibilities as some of the inuences. Brakes (1985) discusses the reasons behind youth culture and cites Murdock (1974) when he suggests the importance placed on popular culture, looking beyond the relationship between school and youth culture to a commercial youth subculture. Brakes (1985) suggests that subcultures

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provide a space to express ones identity free from the restrictions of class, school or occupation for a temporary period. 2.5 Marketing the role of the cool-hunter Cool-hunters identify new and cool trends emerging on a street level, adapting them to instigate commercially viable products. Southgate (2003) describes the cool-hunter as appearing to be a manipulative and preternatural cultural puppet-master. This suggests that the role of a cool-hunter can be interpreted as preying on vulnerable target markets. While adolescents are not the cool-hunters only intended market, they are the source from which new trends and fads are interpreted as being cool. Cool-hunting can be interpreted as a process of taking concepts from teenagers, then commercialising them into mass market products, which in turn feeds back to the group that made it cool in the rst place, resulting in a cycle that ultimately creates a prot for the fashion industry from the quest to be cool. Brands pay cool-hunters to pursue cool in order to fuse cool onto the persona of their product (Southgate, 2003). Designer brands commonly use positive recognition as a form of marketing in the form of celebrity endorsements. In a similar way, marketers who highlight the cool groups within, for example, a school environment are using positive recognition on a more local level, associating the cool kids with products that will become cool through the very fact that the cool kid is being seen in it. Southgate (2003) goes on to dispel the role of the cool-hunter claiming that the role fails to provide an understanding of the underlying dimensions of cool consumerism, preferring to perpetuate the shrouding myth that it dees analysis. He argues that the real challenge for brand owners is not to observe cool people, but to create new cool products, services and experiences. However, both strategies appear to prey on the vulnerability of a teenage demographic by perpetuating the importance of being cool and providing a protable commercial product to ll-up a teenagers quest for identity. 2.5.1 Other marketing efforts. In a report on children and the ethics of marketing, Bergadaa (2007) concurs with the view that encouraging young people to consume cool is ethically questionable, arguing that due to underdeveloped analytical skills and the lack of ability adolescents have to discern the empty promises of advertising, marketers have the potential to exploit. Bergadaa refers to the fashion retailer Zara and their constant pursuit and promotion of new fashion trends, encouraging young people to consume. Bergadaa claims that this form of marketing deects the importance away from the purchase of the product, to the importance on the experience of buying, thus shifting from buying to own to buying to buy, with a greater focus on the brand itself. The consumer, claims Bergadaa, becomes more interested in the kudos of the brand which gives them access to a group or the perception of belonging to a certain tribe. This context relates to Cushmans (1990) concept of fullling the empty self through the signicance of a brand and the consumption of cool, therefore being cool. 3. The survey ndings In the rst instance, the statements given in question 4 of the questionnaire (Figure 1) were used to determine each participants characteristics as being either active or passive. Those scoring 50/50 were appropriately labelled as being active/passive. To assist with the analysis, the statements in questions 4 and 5 were allocated a letter and a number and are referred to by their allocations here-on-in. The results shown in Figure 2 clearly show that the majority of the respondents were passive and the hierarchy shown in Figure 3

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Active

Passive 5% 0%

Active/passive

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27%

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Figure 2. Total percentage analysis of active, passive and active/passive in the sample
68%

Active Active/passive Passive

Figure 3. Diagram representing the hieracy of active, passive and active/passive within the sample

clearly depicts the broad base of the passive majority against the fewer, and arguably more select actives. In a more in-depth exploration of the completed questionnaires, patterns could be observed in the strength of answers given by the participants. Referring back to the questions shown in Figure 1, active participants strongly agreed with statement F6, whilst consistently disagreeing with statement C3. The passive participants also agreed or strongly agreed with statement F6, yet contradicted this statement by always agreeing or strongly agreeing with statement C3. When asked what type of music was preferred (question 1, Figure 1), 32 per cent favoured R&B, 16 per cent preferred Rock/Heavy Metal and 13 per cent Pop music. From the 32 per cent who chose R&B music, 75 per cent of the respondents were identied as being passive, 21 per cent as active and 4 per cent active/passive. Of the 16 per cent who selected Rock/Heavy Metal, 58 per cent were characterised as being passive and 42 per cent as being active, none were active/passive. The Pop music contingent consisted of 70 per cent passive, 30 per cent active and none were active/passive. The results and relationship of characteristics are shown in Figure 4. In response to question 2 (Figure 1), 53 per cent of the sample associated themselves with the social group trendy, 70 per cent of which were identied as being passive, 23 per cent as active and 7 per cent as active/passive. 21 per cent selected other and did not associate with the listed social groups; 75 per cent of which were characterised as being passive, 19 per cent as active and 6 per cent as active/passive. Only 1 per cent of the sample

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Number of respondents

25 20 15 10 5 0
In di Ro e/ gu ck ita /h ea r vy m et al Em o H ip ho p

170

Figure 4. Analysis of music categories and adolecent characteristics

R D an &B ce /h ou se

Po p D ru m

associated with the Goth social group and was identied as being active. Conversely, all the 9 per cent who identied with the Chav group were found to be passive. A comparison of the groups and their active/passive characteristics is shown in Figure 5. When asked (question 3, Figure 1) what aspects the respondent felt likely to make them a part of the group they identied with in question 2, it was found that 32 per cent of the sample attributed this association with their personality (intrinsic), 12 per cent with their clothing (extrinsic) and 7 per cent exclusively to their music preference. About 5 per cent of the sample attributed all three options (intrinsic, extrinsic and music preference) and 2 per cent indicated two relevant choices, all but one of which highlighted personality and clothing as the two attributes. The results are shown in Figure 6. Figure 7 shows the percentage of the sample that agreed or strongly agreed that they felt part of their school community, web community and local area (question 5, Figure 1). The percentage of passive, active and active/passive respondents that agreed or strongly agreed to this statement is shown in Figure 8.
40 35 Number of respondents 30 25 20 15 Active 10 5 0 Trendy Other Chav Emo Skater Goth Active/passive Passive

Figure 5. Social group percentages, active, passive and active/passive

an d

ba se G ar ag e O th er

Number of respondents

25 20 15 10 5 0
ic ic ic ic ns ns us us tri tri M na m tio n

Active/passive Passive Active

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Figure 6. Statistical analysis of intrinsic, extrinsic, music and other attributes to participants identity

In

Ex

an

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rin

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ns

In

tri

Web based

lte

ic

rn

at

iv ec

om

bi

Local area

School

39%

35%

26%

Figure 7. Community

70 Number of respondents in agreement 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 School Web based Local area Active Active/passive Passive

Figure 8. Percentage analysis of active, passive and active/passive characteristics correlated against community data

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4. Evaluation The ndings were evaluated in relation to the intrinsic and extrinsic development of identity. 4.1 Intrinsic development of identity The ndings revealed 68 per cent of the sample to have passive characteristics, which supports the general theoretical argument that the majority of the teenage demographic are passive. Furthermore, adolescents with passive characteristics were found to be the intended audience for the marketing of cool in the literature review. The smaller percentage highlighted as active adolescents in the survey further supports the theoretical argument that the actives are used for the portrayal of cool as they are identied as the popular people and thus used to promote cool to the passive audience. Exploring this theory further, correlations can be made with the adopter categories of the diffusion of innovation concept that is popular with marketing theorists that has evolved from consumer purchasing behaviour drivers and the product lifecycle; the ve stages generally begin with the innovator category, followed by the early adopters, the early majority, the late majority and nally the late adopters or laggards (Brassington and Pettitt, 2006). One could draw a correlation between the characteristics of the passive with that of the late adopter and the active with that of the fashion innovator. In a study by Goldsmith et al. (1999), it was found that the majority of research into the characteristics of fashion innovators focused on variables such as demographics, lifestyles, attitudes and social communication. They cite Malhotras (1981) self-concept scale that denes the characteristics of female fashion innovators as being: excitable, indulgent, contemporary, formal, colourful, dominating and vain. Goldsmith et al. (1999) also cite Gordon et al. (1985), who dened the characteristics of fashion innovators as being self perceived animation, friendliness, impression leaving and drama. The identiable attributes of fashion innovators are akin to the characteristics of the active adolescent as there appears to be a strong correlation between the active adolescent and their self-perception of uniqueness, combined with feelings of ambivalence of how others perceive this unique self. The self-concept studies suggest fashion innovators do have a unique self-image which would support the possibility that active adolescents will go on to become fashion innovators. However, whilst Goldsmith et al. (1999) focus on studies that highlight fashion innovators as the audience for marketers, the research carried out in this study focuses on the theory that marketers are in fact focusing on the passive adolescents who, by default, would be closely associated with the late adaptors in the self-concept theory; and rather than marketers developing advertising for the teenage market that appeals to the fashion innovators, it is the late adopters that are the audience, thus encouraging the empty self of the passives rather than promoting adverts that are aimed at encouraging the self image of the actives. 4.2 Extrinsic development of identity The extrinsic development of identity was evaluated in relation to the roles of popular culture, family and social groups. However, it must be taken into account that the survey was localised and that while a sample of 79 respondents can be considered a relatively signicant sample size, when breaking the sample down into smaller subsets then many groups have insufcient numbers to make generalisations. The ndings are therefore only signicant to this particular sample and a much larger scale survey

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is needed to make general inferences. It should also be noted that the results are real-time providing a snap-shot of what was happening in that locality at that point in time. It cannot be presumed that the tastes of the teenagers surveyed will remain constant for any given period of time nor can it be assumed that the sample is typical of all UK localities. However, the evaluations of the ndings in relation to the theories show some interesting support and contradictions that are valuable considerations in themselves. 4.2.1 The role of popular culture. Popular culture, for the purpose of this study was represented through the music preference of the participant. The majority had preferred R&B music, a genre currently popular in the UK, above all other genres listed. Rock/Heavy Metal music also proved to be popular amongst the sample. However, when comparing the percentage of active and passive participants within the two music genres of those choosing R&B music 70 per cent were passive and only 28 per cent were active compared to those with a preference for Rock/Heavy Metal where 58 per cent were characterised as being passive and 42 per cent were active. Both music categories are considered to be relatively mainstream however, a distinct difference in style and appearance for the two groups was evident through observation. People who listened to R&B music tended to dress relatively mainstream, for example wearing well-known sports and designer brands, whereas fans of Rock/Heavy Metal music tended to have a much more distinct and radical appearance having long hair and wearing dark clothing. 4.2.2 The role of the family. The role of the family was measured through the analysis of question 4 and used as a signicant identier of whether a participant was categorised as passive or active. The increased percentage of active participants in the Rock/Heavy Metal genre supports Papinis theory that identity exploration is more prevalent in teenagers who have a more secure background (Archer, 1994). This is further reected in the fringe social groups, Goths and Chavs, where the Goth was characterised as active and the mainstream Chav characterised as passive. However, in terms of marketing one could argue that, although people who reside on the fringes of the mainstream in music taste and dress code may be more likely to conform to an active prole, they would not necessarily appeal to the marketer, who is aiming towards the majority mainstream. Therefore, the actives highlighted within the R&B group are more likely to be the sought after targets, as a means of accessing the larger proportion of passives within this mainstream group. 4.2.3 The role of social groups. The ndings show a high proportion of participants identied with a social group. The ndings show that the intrinsic factor, personality, was the most common choice. The extrinsic factor, clothing, scored lower than anticipated, which would seem to contradict Chaplin and Roedders (2005) self-brand connection study that teenagers identify themselves predominantly through clothing and brand names. However, further analysis of the results showed 23 per cent of the sample felt that both intrinsic and extrinsic factors attributed towards how they identied themselves. Clothing and physical appearance is important to teenagers, however they have a need to be seen as individuals on a personal level and are perhaps more aware of a sense of self than the self-brand study allows. Developmental theorists such as Loevinger (Kroger, 1996) suggest a ux between the self and others in the development process of identity during adolescence. It is at the mid-teen stage (aged 13-14) that developmental theorists suggest adolescents experience an increased need for acceptance and approval from peers (Cotterell, 1996). The responses from the questionnaire clearly show the importance of friends, no one disagreed with statement I9 (question 4, Figure 1). The emphasis on having friends may

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have resulted in a high proportion of the sample associating with a social group. However, 21 per cent selected other when asked to choose a social group which could imply a rejection of being categorised or pigeon-holed into a preconceived social group and thus question the view of teenagers placing importance on belonging to a group. Only one respondent could be seen to be rejecting the notion of being part of a social group by responding to question 2 (Figure 1), none, just me. The other respondents giving alternative answers categorised themselves within alternative groups for example casual, normal and gangster. Some of the other responses were weird and random, which would suggest feelings of alienation from a social environment, a characteristic of the passive prole. This is supported by ndings that 75 per cent of those who selected other were passive. If adolescents are conscious that individualism is associated with being cool, the selection of other could reect an aspiration to be cool, rather than a reection of feeling personal marginalisation. 4.3 The marketing methods and how is cool commoditised Cool appears to have a high value to both the marketer and the teenage demographic. The ndings of this study appear to support the developmental theorists view that the teenager changes their emphasis between self and other through the development of their identity. These changes appear to relate to their age, and therefore would suggest the appropriate method of access to the mid-teen age group would be horizontal, i.e. through peers and social groups. Evidence that marketers respond to this sensitivity and increased receptiveness to social groups and peers can been seen on social networking sites such as Bebo. Observations from the Bebo web site highlight suggested methods employed by marketers to gain access and inuence teenagers. Social networking sites emphasise the importance of being social, having many friends and expressing personal interests. These sites enable teenagers to feel a sense of belonging to a social group through having a prole and thus appealing to the teenagers need for acceptance from their peers. This is supported by 72 per cent of the sample who agreed with statement M13 (question 5, Figure 1), which suggests a large audience for such sites. The audiences entertainment is through social interaction with personal friends, etc. However, Bebo offer additional entertainment, through videos and on-line series such as, Soas Diary and Kate Modern and applications offering free gifts and other reward incentives. It is through this additional entertainment that advertising appears to play a key role. First, advertising appears through what can be perceived as an open and regular approach, such as intermitting video clips with adverts and offering prizes. However, other methods have been observed offering another dimension of interest to this study. Individuals with a Bebo prole can create a skin for their prole which enables the expression of identity through the personalisation of ones prole. However, such skins are endorsed by brands such as Nike, Adidas and football clubs, etc.; placing the brand at the forefront of the prole and facilitating wide reaching access by the brand to specic target markets. Furthermore, the idea of choosing a branded skin arguably encourages teenagers to identify themselves with brands in order to achieve cool status from their peers. Additionally, certain brands have a Bebo prole, for example, Nike Women and Lynx deodorant, these proles create a virtual personality for the brand. For example, the Lynx deodorant prole adopts the same format as a regular prole, stating likes, dislikes, activities, interests, etc.; as with other proles you can also make Lynx deodorant your friend. The Lynx deodorant prole could be seen as an example of how marketers access and manipulate

the teen market on two levels, by accessing teenagers horizontally and by using active adolescents to promote to the passive adolescents. Accessing teenagers horizontally, applies Cotterells (1996) view that teenagers in mid-adolescence are most receptive to the inuence of peers and friends, rather than vertical social relations such as teachers and parents. This approach could be seen as a shrouded marketing approach. The Lynx deodorant prole is not hiding the fact it is a brand, nor is it a pop-up message, therefore it does require an element of optional participation to open the advert. However, one could argue that by targeting teenagers on a one-to-one personal level, within their personal domain, the brand is appearing as their friend and as peer relations are seen to have greater inuence in this age group the angle could be interpreted as rather sinister. Furthermore, as stated by Erikson (1970), passive adolescents have weak analytical skills and will be less likely to be able to analyse the advert as a piece of marketing. This is supported by Bergadaa (2007) who suggests that teenagers lack the ability to discern empty promises. In-depth analysis of the Lynx deodorant prole enables an evaluation on how marketers target the passive adolescent through the use of the active, in order to promote cool consumerism. First, the theme of the advert is highly masculine and sexually condent, which is in keeping with the actives characteristics. It claims that a male teenager will not succeed in nding a girlfriend. As this is advertised on a social networking site, the interaction with friends and possible love interests is predominantly via e-mail and wall-posts, thus striking a cord with the passive reader and encouraging the empty self by making them feel uncool, whilst simultaneously offering a lling commercial solution. To reinforce the point, there is an image of an alternative cool lifestyle, the emphasis based very much on the supercial, for example getting buff at the gym, rather than t and healthy, buying cool clothes and of course, in-keeping with the product. The prole goes further to promote cool by stating that his greatest fear would be not having the coolest, most girl-friendly pulling tools a direct statement that buying the product will make you cool, and by association inferring that not buying it will make you uncool. This direct marketing on the cyber playground is an example of the ethics questioned by Bergadaa (2007), targeting the vulnerable in their own domain. 5. Conclusion The aim of this study was to investigate the inuence marketers have on teenagers in their quest for identity and to examine the ethical implications of this possible inuence. This was achieved through an investigation into the intrinsic and extrinsic inuences on a teenagers identity development and the methods used by marketers to manipulate the teenager demographic. The concept of cool had an important role in this study, its signicance to both teenagers and marketers became even more apparent from the interpretation of advertising that featured on social networking sites such as Bebo. Cool is a lucrative commodity and is greatly sought after. The very existence of the role of the cool-hunter highlights the importance of cool and the necessity for brands to be aware of, and indeed incorporate, what is perceived to be cool into their products. However, there appears to be a grey area in dening who is responsible for initialising concepts of what is deemed cool, as well as the inherent problems imposed by the mutability of a denition for cool. Cool-hunting of the teenage demographic suggests a stealthy pursuit of up and coming trends from cool teenagers and a process of commercialising these trends for the majority of hungry teenagers aspiring to be cool. Supercially this would appear to be a self perpetuating cycle of supply and demand. However, this study questions who

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is actually deciding/determining what is cool? The prey of the cool-hunter is rather subjective; cool after all is based on personal opinion which leads to the conclusion that there is no set formula, but rather a wide spread appreciation amongst teenagers for the need to be cool. When the sample were questioned about what was cool, they appeared to place a high value on being cool as it would lead to acceptance from their peers, which as Loevinger (1976) suggests is very important at the stage of adolescence. However, interestingly the participants were more easily able to identify what was not cool and appeared to have strong views on this. This would suggest that being cool is more about being accepted and less about a specic product, and therefore one could begin to draw conclusions upon how cool is commoditised. The empty self-concept was discussed in this study as a possible basis from which marketers manipulate the path taken by teenagers on their quest for identity. The theory of the empty self, it is suggested, is a result of the absence of community, tradition and shared meaning (Kroger, 1996) a void which is conveniently lled through consumer products. If this is indeed the case, the empty self is arguably an ideal status from which marketers can manipulate and access the teenage demographic. If cool is not formulaic, then the role of the cool-hunter could be perceived as rather hit or miss and their success would appear to be reliant on the whim of the consumer. However, through the manipulation of how the consumer sees themselves, through the use of the empty self, the marketer has a much greater degree of control. They are in the position to create the need with one hand, and supply that need with the other. This process is arguably a valid means of marketing a product. However, when applying this approach to teenage demographic, it is important to highlight the increased impact such an approach could have. First, it is arguably exploitation of their increased vulnerability and their sensitivity to being accepted by their peers and society. Second, the marketers covert approach through social networking sites arguably plays on the teenagers lack of analytical understanding (Bergadaa, 2007) through a stealth approach to advertising. Finally, this approach could be seen as imposing a pernicious inuence on a teenagers quest for identity, forming their foundations of their identity on supercial and commercial considerations. Imposing restrictions and encouraging an insatiable appetite for commercial products in order for teenagers to feel a sense of belonging, arguably denies teenagers the possibility to explore their identity organically. The manipulation both overtly and covertly of the teenage demographic seems to continue unchecked and to be increasing an apparent psychological need for consumerism in adolescents. This study has attempted to address the issue of youth identity ownership, however due to the relatively small scale survey in one location larger scale surveys covering many locations are now necessary in order to make strong generalisations about the topic.
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