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Barcelona
Zodwa Kumalo-Valentine pays a Visit to this charismatic catalan city and shares 10 ways to maKe the most of it
TRY NOT TO EAT AT THE SAME PLACE TWICE
QUIMET I QUIMET (Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes, 25) Theres nowhere to sit in this intimate space and you have to shout your order across a small counter to an impatient owner, but dishes like the prawn, caviar, yoghurt and cherry pepper on toasted bread will keep you willingly standing around for hours. CIUTAT COMTAL (Rambla de Catalunya, 18) Around the corner from one of the most central squares, Plaa de Catalunya. Expect a healthy mix of tourists and locals. The selection of tapas, wines and beers is formidable but easy on the pocket. CAL PEP (Plaa de les Olles, 8) Forget about booking a table wait in line (get there early) for a seat at the counter. Chef Pep, the owner, might even serve you the restaurants sublime seafood specialities himself. Calpep.com EL XAMPANYET (Calle Montcada, 22) Try the tortillas (Spanish omelettes), Iberian hams and pan con tomate (bread smeared with fresh tomato and garlic). Priced for a student budget. Knock on the wooden door a few buildings further along the road to discover one of the best settings to enjoy flamenco.
TOP TIP: Dont settle for the first good place you happen upon hunt for the famed menu del dia (set lunchtime special) that offers you a drink and a three-course meal for under 10 (about R100). Also dont forget that Spaniards eat dinner late, so dont be suprised if places are empty if you walk in before 10pm.

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GET YOUR BEAUTY SLEEP

CHIC AND BASIC BARCELONA (Calle Princesa, 50) Youll find this unusual three-star bed and breakfast in the El Born district. Help yourself to free breakfast, free WiFi and free bottled water in the gym, and enjoy the quirky dcor and laid-back reception. Chicandbasic.com HOTEL SIXTY TWO (Passeig de Grcia, 62) An elegant little boutique hotel perfectly located in the heart of the highstreet shopping district. Three Zara stores can be found along this boulevard Sixtytwohotel.com
From top Hotel Sixty Two; Chic and Basic.

The days are long and the nights even longer so its important to find a hotel to suit your needs. Whether location or quiet luxury is your priority, here are some choice hotels in which to get your sleep quota.

HOTEL BAGUES (La Rambla, 105) Overlooking popular tourist strip La Rambla, this luxury hotel is in the heart of all the action. Watching the sun go down while enjoying a cool beverage and taking in the sights and sounds of Barcelona is a great way to unwind after a busy day out. Derbyhotels.com ME BARCELONA (Carrer Pere IV) Located on the outskirts of the city centre, ME is an oasis of luxury and a respite from the sometimes maddening crowds. Me-Barcelona.com

TOP TIP: Before booking your accommodatioin, decide where youd like to be based near the high street, on the tourist strip, far from the city centre, or in the hippest part of Barcelona. If you dont get to bed until dawn, dont feel guilty about taking a siesta in the afternoon its a national pastime.

Eating out is one of the most exciting things to do in Barcelona. And following the best-restaurant trail will have you exploring the hidden treasures of the city. Spain is the famous home of tapas which offer the most authentic means of sampling the best food and combinations chefs have to offer. The word (from tapar, to cover) originates from the small plate laden with delicious morsels traditionally placed on top of your glass of cava (sparkling wine) or beer. Some bars have a no-food, no-booze policy, but who would forgo a little snack with a glass of after-work cava anyway?

ENJOY COCKTAIL HOUR

Cocktail hour is particularly long in Barcelona. The sun sets late and patrons only eat dinner well after 9pm, so theres plenty of time to fortify yourself with a leisurely preprandial drink or two.

TAKE ADVANTAGE OF SALE SEASON

We happened to be in Barcelona in August, just as the ridiculous summer sales hit (Buy three T-shirts for R30 each at H&M), but if youre looking for something unusual, try these.

LA BOQUERIA (La Rambla, 91) One half of the world-famous chef duo of elBulli fame, Ferran Adris brother Albert (now chef-owner of Tickets and 41 cocktail bar) has built his home above this market, which inspires his recipes and feeds his love for food. La Boqueria (right) dates back to the early 18th century and youll find the freshest ingredients ranging from meat and fish to home-made pastas, fruit and vegetables. There are counters and stools dotted about, where vendors encourage you to pick ingredients from their stalls and prepare tasty meals while you wait. Grab a packet of fresh cherries to nibble on as you walk around the market. Boqueria.info ANIMA (Carrer dels ngels, 6) Anima is situated in the exciting El Raval neighbourhood. Pick a table under the trees on the sidewalk and sample its ever-changing menu that experiments with different flavour combinations.
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W HOTEL (Plaa de la Rosa del Vents, 1 Final Passeig de Joan de Borb) Not so long ago, the W (the locals call it hotel vela vela means sail in Spanish) was a source of contention, threatening to ruin the beautiful Barcelona skyline. Now not only does it define it, it also is one of the best spots for a cocktail and a 360-degree view of the entire city from the 26th floor. W-barcelona.com MORRO FI (Carrer del Consell de Cent, 171) Join locals as they unwind after a days work. Try a plate of mojama (dried tuna) and ask the owner for a glass or two of his vermouth.
TOP TIP: The locals are not ones to get plastered, so if you have a wild drinking habit, keep it in check when visiting local hang-outs.
ZODWA KUMALOVALENTINE.

LOVE VINTAGE (Carrer de Bertrellans, 5) Look for vintage dresses, bags, shoes and more. Lovevintagestore.com KLING BARCELONA (Carrer dels Banys Nous, 14) Shop for pieces from the past in a very stylish setting. Kling.es EL RAVAL This is a rejuvenated barrio (neighbourhood), home to many incredibly priced vintage spots. EL BORN This up-market barrio showcases the work of top local designers.
TOP TIP: Check whats happening in Barcelona before deciding what time of year youd like to visit maybe youll fancy the Sonar Music Festival along with the crazy summer sales.

TICK THE CULTURAL CHECK LIST

TOP TIP: Some

MACBA (MUSEU DART CONTEMPORANI DE

BARCELONA) (Plaa dels ngels) A peek at Barcelonas contemporary art scene. If youre so inclined, bring along your skateboard and have a go in the adjacent park. Macba.cat LA SAGRADA FAMILIA (Calle Mallorca, 401) Its now legend that Spanish architect Gaud dedicated the last 14 years of his life to building this iconic church which is still a work in progress. The goal is to finish construction by 2026, in time for the 100th anniversary of Gauds death. Pictures dont prepare you for the reality of this awe-inspiring building (right). Get up super-early to queue among the throngs of tourists. Sagradafamilia.cat FUNDACIO JOAN MIR (Parc de Montjuc) A museum that pays tribute to Catalan artist Joan Mir while promoting contemporary art. Take a walk in the pleasant surrounds and end the day with a sundowner at the hidden bar at the top of the park. Fundaciomiro-bcn.org

hotels offer pocket books of discounted tickets to get into various museums and tourist spots. Take advantage!

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TAKE TIME OUT (BCN.CAT)

BARCELONETA BOARDWALK Take a lazy stroll or Rollerblade along the promenade. Have a dip in the sea and sun yourself at one of the beach cafs, where DJs usually play sundowner sessions. PARC DE LA CIUTADELLA is located near Barcelonas Arc de Triomf (right) and is a perfect spot for reading, sunning or picnicking. Get your supplies (cured meats, cheese, bread, fruit and wine) from the Mercat de Santa Caterina (food and restaurant market). PARQUE DEL LABERINTO Barcelonas best-kept secret an exquisite labyrinth park, far from the masses.

GET OUT OF TOWN

FEAST YOuR EARS AND EYES

entrance 5, deckchair rental 3. Screenings Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 10pm SONAR FESTIVAL An electronic-music feast that draws fans from around the world. Sonar.es PRIMAVERA SOUND FESTIVAL Offering the best upcoming and well-established indie stars, this outdoor music festival has a jampacked programme (last years line-up included James Blake, Outkast, Fleet Foxes, PJ Harvey, Jarvis Cocker and more), so youll be entertained from the afternoon until the birds start tweeting, over a full four days. Primaverasound.com

Several idyllic seaside and country spots are a mere train ride or short drive away. Take advantage of the special packages on offer if youd prefer to take the thinking out of your city escape or do a self-drive and explore at leisure.

CATCH UP ON LOCAL

LITERATURE AND MOVIES

Many trips to Barcelona are inspired by books or movies that have been set there. If you find yourself stuck indoors on a rainy afternoon, stay in travel mode with: Carlos Ruiz Zafns novel The Shadow of the Wind the perfect read for a train trip. Biutiful, Vicky Cristina Barcelona, The Spanish Apartment or In This Tricky Life rented on DVD.

TOP TIP: Some cinemas show movies with English subtitles or in the original language with Spanish subtitles; check before buying your ticket.

HOW TO GET THERE Lufthansa flies daily from Joburg to Barcelona with its flagship, the A380. With flights that leave Joburg in the evening and convenient connections via Frankfurt, youll arrive in Barcelona early enough to enjoy a whole day there. Visit Lufthansa.com to check out special offers for Marie Claire readers.

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AdditionAl text Zanele Kumalo PhotogrAPhs CorBiS/greaTSToCK and Zodwa Kumalo-valenTine

SITGES This gay-friendly seaside town (pictured below), 45 minutes by train from the city, offers quaint bars and eateries, great beaches and lots of culture for a day trip or weekend escape. FIGUERES Home to Salvador Dals surreal museum. Buy your ticket before you leave Barcelona and book for the last entry in the early evening, when most tourists start leaving. Spend the day exploring neighbouring Girona and visit Dals Pbol Castle, which later became a mausoleum for his wife, Gala. MONTSERRAT The mountains provide a great hiking destination after a visit to the magical monasterial retreat.

MONTJUC DE NUIT (Montjuc Castle Gardens) Every summer in July and August, Montjuc castle is transformed into a huge outdoor cinema and concert venue as hundreds head there to escape the heat. The repertory of films runs from classic picks to the best of recent months and in 2011 this meant that Some Like it Hot followed A Prophet, and Nosferatu shared the bill with The Ghost Writer. Before the movie starts, there is live music bossa nova, flamenco, R & B and fado. Bring a blanket (or hire deckchairs there) and a picnic. Salamontjuic.org,

meTro toP tiP: Buy THe T10 u wHiCH allowS yo paSS, per THan 10 TripS. iTS CHea SeS. Buying one-day paS

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EXPLORE THE CITY

Walk instead of taking the metro or the bus its great exercise and the best way to see the city. If youre travelling across town, use the metro. Be aware that residents speak Catalan and Spanish, and menus and signs can be in either language. Service providers in popular tourist spots speak English, but if you plan to go off the beaten track, learn a few Spanish phrases before you set off and carry a map so you can point to where you need to go.