Installing a radio in the CLKs is a walk in the park, doesn't matter if its a do uble din or single.

it takes about 30 minutes, and ive done all my stereos mysel f. currently i have a couble din fully loaded and it doesn't need a frame, all y ou have to do is is take off the old radio and the glove holder under the radio and cut the plate thats between the two off, no need to remove the center consul or anything. there are harnesses for the clk out there but when i did mine ther e was nothing available so i just cut the wires and heat shrinked them to the st ereo wires. Stop wasting your money by going to these stereo shops that do nothi ng but rip people off. key thing is not be affraid to take things apart, doesn't matter if its a Benz or a honda or a ferrari, they were put together by people like us so don't worry and take them apart and do the job yourself. after the jo b is done you feel better abhout saving money and the fact that you accomplished something. I hate to see people getting ripped off. Basics of stereo install: there are generally 4 wire colors for speakers that are3 in the following order Purple, Green. White and Gray they may be different colors but those are what 80 % stereo manufactorers use the way you can tell which wires are speaker wires is to look for a solid color wire and alos a wire in the exat same color but with a black line in it those two are matching wires for one side speaker and so on. in your radio manual it will tell you what wire is for what speaker. now on the car is a different story because auto manufactores use different colors, you wil l need a test light to find Ground/Ignition/Battery after you found those wires you can find what wire goes to which speaker by connecting a 9v battery to it an d you will hear a noic=se come through the speaker which means the wire that you are connecting the battery too is connected to that side speaker and thats how you find which speaker is connected to what wire. you do this process of you can 't find a harness but if you can get the harness it's just plug and play. I have something almost identical to this one, and i love it, sound quality is 9 0% dependant on your amp and speakers which mercedes CLKs come with a great setu p. i'm running this with my factory amp and speakers and sound quality is fantas tic, the unit also has GPS, Bluettoth(for phone and music), DVD,CD, Radio, TV, I pod kit, Rear view camera option, Usb input and an additional Sd input, the navi gation software comes on a SD card so you can use any other navigation software that you may like better, the chinese units normally come with Route 66 navi sof tware which is fine for me but if need be you are able to use a different softwa re. also the fact that it plays divix/mp3/mp4,mpeg4 is great because i download music videos from youtube via a free youtube downloader that i g=found on the in ternet and put them on a usb flash drive and just plug it to my stereo and boom i have music videos playing in my car or even movies. I really hope this answere d all the questions about the stereo issues, feel free to ask any questions you may have. my stereo: http://cgi.ebay.com/7-DOUBLE-DIN-CAR...item5adada590d For interior paint Contact Alan Vipond at info@viponds.com.au Believe me its simple, heres the instructions on removing the bumper from the ho w to section: Remove Front Bumper: You'll need an 8 and 10 mm ratchet, a 13 mm open ended and a phillips head screw driver. 1. You need to detach the fog light splash shields from the car (you can leave t hem attached to the bumper) using the screwdriver. 2. Using the 8mm, disconnect the 4 bolts around the headlights. 3. With the 10mm ratchet, remove the bolts on either side of the bumper where it

meets the fender (near the wheel). 4. To access the next two fasteners, you'll need to remove the side marker and p art of the impact strip (or remove it from underneath the car). They're elongate d bolts with a 10mm head on either side of the bumper. Loosen them until they dr op down but don't remove them from the bumper. 5. Finally, remove the front fan shroud and you'll be able to access the two 13m m nuts. Remove them. 6. CAREFULLY remove the bumper (it is advised to have 2 people do it so that you don't scratch the fender with the sides). 7. If you didn't disconnect the wiring and temperature sensor from below before removing all the hardware, then disconnect everything before you pull the bumper very far off the car. Make sure to organize the bolts so that you know where they go back. I drew a pi cture of the front of the car on a pad and placed the bolts on there so I rememb ered. It should take about 40 minutes the first time. The bumper is quite light, so it should just slide out. If it doesn't, then you forgot some bolts.

These are for the W208/209, other models may differ. After you get home from a d rive (20 minutes or longer), let the car idle for 60 seconds while in park with the AC on. Press and hold the "REST" button on the climate control. After approx imately 5 seconds, the display will change. You can now release the REST button. The left "auto" button will allow you to scroll through the menu. Here are what the codes mean: 01 The in-car temperature sensor. 02 The bumper temperature sensor. 03 The temperature of the left side heater core. 04 The temperature of the right side heater core. 05 The temperature at the evaporator sensor. 06 The engine coolant temperature. 07 The barometric pressure of the Freon. 08 The Freon temperature. 09 Blank. 10 The voltage at the heater blower control (normal is 08-6.0, which is .8 to 6 volts). 11 Emissions sensor voltage (to detect atmospheric gases and recirculate interio r air). W209 only 12 Sun sensor voltage (to shift airflow in car). W209 only 20 The current at the auxiliary fan (the electric fan on radiator, in milliamps or mA). 21 Engine speed (x 100 RPM). 22 Vehicle speed (km/h or mph depending on installation). 23 The percentage of battery voltage at terminal 58d (a percentage of total volt age, 99.0 = 99%). 24 Battery voltage (e.g. 12.8 = 12.8V). 40 The climate control software version. - V8 41 The climate control hardware version. - V5 Either turning the car off or pressing the REST button again will take the HVAC

out of diagnostic mode. Some notes. Common problems that can throw the Electronic HVAC for a loop are bad temperatur e sensors. Naturally, if the in-car temperature sensor (#1) is broken and reads low, the AC will cycle off early while in auto mode. If it s broken and reads high, you may f reeze to death while in auto mode. The evaporator sensor (#5) should be close to the in-car temperature sensor whil e the A/C is off, and a lot lower while the A/C is on. The Freon pressure sensor (#7) is a good way to determine whether the Freon is l ow. Low refrigerant pressure commonly causes the left side to blow warmer air th an the right side. Of course, the logical question is, "What s normal?" My Freon p ressure sensor (#7) reads as follows - when the car is started, and the AC is tu rned on, without touching the gas, it s as high as 15. It drops to 7 while driving , and is commonly at 11/12 while waiting at lights.