Pradeepan MP

Prospectus
of Quality Control in Apparel Industry
INTRODUCTION
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar
Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry
INTRODUCTION
For every industry or business, to get increased sales and better name amongst consumers and fellow companies it is important to maintain a level of quality. In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished garment. For textile and apparel industry product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibres, yarns, fabric construction, colour fastness, surface designs and the final finished garment products. "The systems required for programming and coordinating the efforts of the various groups in an organization to maintain the requisite quality". As such Quality Control is seen as the agent of Quality Assurance or Total Quality Control. The quality of the product may be obtained by testing a particular property of a material on different types of testing instruments. Because textile product meets various physical, chemical and mechanical processes during pre-production and various stresses put on the garment during post production. Quality control helps to ensure that all garment products meet production standards and match the original sample. Satisfied quality can be ensured from the customers point of view by providing: Right Product Right Quality Right Time Undamaged Condition Quality control helps to ensure that all garment products meet production standards and match the original sample There are two main aspects to quality of garment. Design Quality: It is concerned with materials, fit and construction methods. Manufacturing Quality: Manufacturing quality is concerned with degree to which the garment produced agrees with the sample or specifications. Who decides the quality level - The consumer of the number of the public who buys a garment from a retail shop also influences the quality requirements. In many cases this can be negative. i.e. he does not buy, all though in the bigger organization where marketing programs are carried out the consumer can effect the design quality.
In the majority of cases the customer decides the acceptable levels of quality both from design and manufacturing aspects. The customer may be a professional buyer for a large wholesale or retail organization. The main objective of quality control is to ensure that goods are produced to the first customer (Direct Order) and hopefully to the second customers(Re-order/Alter Order/New Order) as well. If both customers can be satisfied then the manufacturers products are more likely to be continued in demand. Satisfactory quality can only be ensured through( from the manufacturers point of view): Knowing the customers needs Designing to meet them Faultless construction Certified performance and safety Clear instruction manuals Suitable packing Prompt delivery Feed back of filed experience
PROBLEM DEFINITION
The quality is the major problem now a days in apparel industry. Senior management lacks the policies and visible support of a quality philosophy such as following an ISO 9000 Quality System It also shows up as a poor attitude about quality. Quality is viewed as add on, inspected in and is impedance to doing their job. Proper training is not viewed as a prerequisite to start a job which leads to unqualified people performing processes. These problems, as stated above include: lack of purchasing, design, and testing processes, inspections that are after the fact with out in-process controls or feedback loops. It also leads to a lack of product tractability, quality maintenance records of the equipment so improvement or stabilization data is not available.
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar 3
OBJECTIVES
The objectives to prevent errors by early detection and action are: The need to make the requirement complete and clear at all levels, from this specification of a large system to the individuals works construction and terms of reference. The detection error by monitoring both product and the method by which it is produced. The prevention of errors at the earliest (right at first time) The total involvement of all concerning the contribution to the final products quality. Establish a total forward or backward control system, allowing flexibility for change. To maximize the production of goods within the specified tolerances correctly the first time. To achieve a satisfactory design of the fabric or garment in relation to the level of choice in design, styles, colors, suitability of components and fitness of product for the market.
RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
The Research is based on secondary observations on the various quality parameters and standards 1. The primary data sources are the various editions quality reports presented by buyers and exporters to the House of Representatives, highlighting on Exim Policies, Quality Standards. 2. The Secondary data sources are various research papers on market scenario, research papers on apparel exports, buyers needs regarding quality, experts opinion on Apparel quality scenario.
RESEARCH SCOPE
The research relies on major outcomes of standardized organization of central ministry. The researcher considers only apparel exporting business. This research could possibly assist retailers in analyzing their scope in the Industries. It would also provide information on quality factors of the apparel industry. Thus give an idea about the level of acceptance and success of quality in the industry.
RESEARCH GAP
There has been a lot of research done on the quality aspects in context to the production sector. However, the researches done did not give complete idea about the opportunities that prevail in these industries and how to tap them effectively. With due respect to all the research done, this research work has been carried out to try and fill in these gaps.
HYPOTHESIS
The quality of the product can be controlled by the various of aspects measures taken in an industry. The quality of the product cannot be controlled by the various of aspects measures taken in an industry
REVIEW OF LITERATURE
1. MANAGING QUALITY IN THE APPAREL INDUSTRY Pradip V. Metha
This easy-to-follow reference book explores all aspects of quality for the clothing and apparel industry - detailing the fundamental principles as well as the latest topics in the quality profession. Presenting quality as an overall business strategy and management function, Managing Quality in the Apparel Industry explains what is quality, why quality is important, and describes how to build quality into products, shows how to evaluate quality of all the components that go into making garments, explains how to measure the cost of quality or rather poor quality, and shows how to begin to manage quality. Providing hundreds of excerpts, Managing Quality in the Apparel Industry is a practical source for quality control managers, supervisors, inspectors, technicians, and executives; and upper-level undergraduates and graduate students in these disciplines. -
2. Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn Product Analysis - Glock Ruth E., Glock

Practical and state-of-the-art in approach, this text provides fundamental-yet comprehensivecoverage of quality control concepts. Sufficient theory is presented to ensure that students gain a sound understanding of the basic principles of quality control. The substantial use of probability and statistical techniques is reduced to simple mathematics or is developed in the form of tables and charts.
3. Total quality management - Besterfield

Total quality management (TQM) is a revolutionary approach to effective management. The research in TQM has emerged from practical needs of organizations embracing this philosophy, and the literature is mostly conceptual and practitioner-oriented. There is a lack of sound theoretical framework classifying past efforts and guiding future research. To fill the void, a study of the published TQM literature is undertaken. The analysis of the literature presents pertinent developments in each of the seven criteria. In addition, it provides future research directions as well as a ready reference of the TQM literature. The suggestions for
research should guide future developments in the TQM field and help transform it into a formal discipline.
4. APPAREL TESTING AND TEXTILE TESTING: INTERTEK

If you work in the fashion industry, you are well aware that the quality of garments is extremely important. Therefore, our quality assurance policies must be strict and well disciplined. There is only way to truly be certain that the quality of your clothing and fabric is meeting the desired standards. All apparel manufacturers should do "quality testing". So, now that we are in agreement that testing is a requirement, we must decide where to conduct testing. Many manufacturers do their own private testing. However, Apparel Search suggests using third party testing facilities. The reason that Apparel Search suggests using third party resources is that "testing" is there primary business. In addition, because the test "result" does not effect their business directly, they can be very fair in regard to the testing result. They are not bias in any way
5. GLOBAL APPAREL INDUSTRY AT A ''TIPPING POINT''

The global apparel industry and market are "at a tipping point", with economic uncertainty casting doubts on levels of future growth, according to a new research report. The report, "Tomorrow's apparel industry: products, markets, sourcing and processes- forecasts to 2017", is a think piece about the future of the apparel industry, designed to encourage industry executives to consider what is going to shape their industry over the next few years. It analyses and provides future forecasts for the various different strands of the industry, discussing how trends have changed in the 18 months and speculating on what is likely to happen in the future.
Chapter 1 SAMPLING
GARMENT SAMPLING
Garment samples are inevitably important and are developed tested before starting the bulk production. It means making a sample of the garment /fabric which requires to be sold. Sampling is one of the main process in Garment Industry and it has a vital role in attracting buyers. Because the buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality of the samples
SAMPLING
The samples decide the ability of an exporter. The buyer will access the exporter and his organization only by the samples. If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyers will be forced to place the order. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and with optimum quality. The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk orders and also give some additional benefits to the exporters. By doing sampling the exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing more ever the manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doing sampling only the exporter can optimize the processing parameters for mass production, which helps to avoid all kind of bottlenecks. All these works are carried out by the sampling department, which us led by a sampling in charge. The Details Attached to the Garment Sample After the confirmation of order, each sample sent t 0 the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc. they have used (if applicable). Ref no. Color Fabric Composition Description Quantity Style n0/ Size Store
There may be a separate sampling department in a company. But as the merchandiser is the person who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples and other requirements, this sampling department will work under the supervision of merchandising department. Also as the samples are to be made according to the buyers price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has to advise sampling department suitably.
SAMPLING PROCESS
The process of sample department varies from context to context, and the development process covers a wide range of diverse products from new fibers, fiber blends, new yarns, fabric structures, finishes and surface effects and all types of made up products such ask it wear, hosiery, cut and sewn garments, household products, technical and medical products. There are different phases of sampling; the first phase covers the development of the initial concept or design idea through its approval by the customer and full review risk analysis by the development and production teams. The second phase covers the process following acceptance of the first prototype sample and includes the functions of sourcing and ordering component, testing the product and carry out trails once the finalized sample specifications has been drawn up, the third and final phase commences. The phase includes a range of activities that are carried out before large scale or bulk production capacity outside the home producer/developers wherever this is applicable.
SAMPLING TYPES
We have to send many samples to buyers. They are Salesmen samples or promotional samples Proto samples or fit samples Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples Wash test samples Photo samples Fashion show samples Pre-production samples
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Production samples Shipment samples
DEVELOPMENT SAMPLES OR ENQUIRY SAMPLES When we work with some buyers continuously, we will have to keep on sending samples to them very often. Whenever they have enquiries, buyer may need samples. Buyers may like to see the garments in a new fabric. For one enquiry, they may need samples in different fabrics to choose from. If they want to develop new style in new fabric, then also we will have to send these samples. We may have to spend too much on these samples. But these samples are inevitably important to develop business. Some times, even the buyer is not so confident of some enquiries, if our samples are good and attractive at reasonable prices, they will bring orders to us. Also we will have to send samples to the newly contacted buyers to show our workmanship, product range, quality standards and price level. These samples should be sent so that they would attract the buyers. So it is better for a company to have a separate sampling department so that they can create new styles in new fabrics to impress the buyers.
SALESMEN SAMPLES OR PROMOTIONAL SAMPLES Some buyer needs these samples for getting the orders from their customers. If the buyer is having 7 salesmen in his office, then the buyer will ask us to make 7 samples in each style. The salesmen will book the orders from their customers, by showing these samples. Buyer will place the order to us accumulating the quantities. If we have sent samples for 5 styles, some times, we may get orders for all 5 styles, 3 styles or 1 style. Some times, we may not get order for even a single style. Expected sales may not be possible, due to poor quality, unsuitable colors, improper measurements, unmatched prints or embroidery, etc. of salesmen samples. Or it may be due to local business recession or competition or unsuitable prices. Any way, we have to make these salesmen samples perfectly with sincere interest to get orders.
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We might have spent more money, time, etc. for making these samples. But as we dont get orders, we cannot blame the buyer. He too cannot help us in this regard. To avoid this embarrassing situation, it is better to discuss about the cost of these samples with the buyer before proceeding for sampling. Normally the sampling will cost us approximately 3 to 5 times of the garment price. We cannot expect to get the full cost from the buyer. Of course these samples will help us for our business. Hence we can ask the buyer to accept 2 or 3 times of garment price as the sampling cost, for the styles which we dont get orders. Some genuine buyers will agree for this.
PHOTO SAMPLES OR FIT SAMPLES These samples are to be made after getting the order sheets. These samples are needed to check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but in the actual measurements and specifications. Some buyers may need these samples if they want to print the photos of garments on photo inlays, packing box, hang tag, etc. These samples may be needed for local advertisement or buyers promotional occasions. In any case, the highly paid models will wear the samples. The buyers will arrange the photo shoot session, by spending huge money to the advertising agencies. So the buyers will need these samples strictly on time. If they dont get samples on time, the buyers will have to pay more compensation to the advertising agencies and models. Buyers will ask us to make the photo samples according to the intended models body fit. So it is important to strictly adhere to these measurements. Buyer may ask these samples to send either from production or before starting production.
COUNTER SAMPLES OR APPROVAL SAMPLES These samples are to be made in actual fabrics with actual trims. If the order is for 3 colors, buyer may need samples in any one color and swatches (fabric bits) in other colors. These samples should be strictly as per the specifications in the order sheets. We have to get the approval for these samples from the buyer before starting production. After getting the approval, the approved samples should be followed in production. Some
times, buyer may comment on fabric, measurements, making, etc. We have to follow his comments carefully in production. Some buyer will mention that the order sheets subject to the approval of counter samples. So these samples are very important.
WASH TEST SAMPLES If these samples are sent before starting production and if we get some remarks or comments on these samples, we can correct them in production. But some buyers will need us to send these samples from production before shipment. In this case, these samples may be considered as shipment samples. If these samples are rejected due to some complaints, then we will not have any excuse and we will be in real trouble.
PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES These samples are almost like approval samples. They have to be made in actual production fabric with actual bulk trims. They will represent that the production will be like these samples.
PRODUCTION SAMPLES These samples are to be sent before shipment to get the buyers confirmation for shipment. Hence these samples are needed to be perfect in all manners. Buyer may check these samples for everything or anything. Some times, they may do wash test also. We should not get any remark or comment. We have to get only OK from the buyer. Then only we can ship the goods and we can be sure of getting payment. So these samples are to be sent with more and more care.
SHIPMENT SAMPLES These samples are to be sent after shipment. They should be sent in actual packing with all
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labels, tags, etc. (Generally these samples will not be tested by buyer for anything. And even if we get some comments from buyers, we can save ourselves by saying that these samples were sent from the left over garments after the shipment; hence there might be some mistakes. If we expect any comments in these samples, it is better to inform the buyer during sending these samples).
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Chapter 2 INSPECTION
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INSPECTION
All the retailers want to buy high quality products from manufacturers, to sell the product to their customers. The quality of the garments may vary depends on the price ranges. So we need to follow various methods of inspection techniques, depends on the customers wants and needs. The inspection system gives the clear judgment of the quality of the garment. Quality Assurance process the bulk pollution is examined before delivery to the customer to see if it meets the specifications. The consumers want to get high quality products in low price. The products should reach the consumers with right quality depends on the cost. Quality assurance covers all the process within a company that contributes to the production of quality products. Which is conduct form beginning to end of the process (or) shipment? The inspect is carried out by representatives of the current production and the result record on control chart. Which is a process to Assure the product quality Acceptable or not. The aim of garment inspection is to visually inspect articles at random from a delivery in order to verify their general conformity and appearance with instruction/description and/or sample received.
TYPES OF INSPECTION
Once the samples are selected, each article is to be individually inspected. There are different types of inspection following by inspectors as requirement of consumers. PRE-PRODUCTION CHECK: This is done before production starts. Where then is a final verification of the material used; style, cut and workmanship of the garment or pre-production sample as per the customer Requirements.
INITIAL PRODUCTION CHECK: This is done at the start of production where a first batch of garments is inspected; to distinguish possible discrepancies/variation and to allow fro the necessary corrections to be made bulk production. The inspection is a preliminary stage covering mainly style and general appearance, workmanship, measurements, quality of fabrics, components, weight, colour and/or printing.
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DURING PRODUCTION CHECK: This is done during production to ensure initial discrepancies/variations have been rectified. This inspection is in fact the follow -up of the initial production check and is generally carried out a few days after the initial inspection, especially if discrepancies have been detected at that time. FINAL RANDOM INSPECTION: This is carried out when the production of the total quantity of an order or partial delivery is completed. A sample lot will be selected from the order and a percentage of the garments will be inspected, this percentage usually being stipulated by the buyer. The AQL sampling inspection may be applied or another inspection system designed by the buyer. AQL RANDOM SAMPLING INSPECTION: The AQL random sampling inspection was derived from the mathematical theory of probability and is based on the sampling scheme defined in military standard 105D (MIL STD - 105D). This method constitutes taking random sample from a lot of merchandise, inspecting them and depending on the quality of the sample inspected, determining whether the entire lot is acceptable or not. The MIL - STD - 105D (also BS 6001, ISO 2859, DIN 40080) provides the sampling plans; and these determine the number of samples of be inspected in lot size, in addition to indicating and the acceptable quality level (AQL) which represents the maximum number of defects per hundred units that, for the purpose of the sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average.
SINGLE SAMPLING PLAN - NORMAL INSPECTION: Assurance an AQL of 2.5 % and a lot size of 1200 garments and the sample size is 80 garments. If the number of defective garments found is 5 the total lot is "Acceptable" suppose if the defective garments found is 6, the total lot is "Reject/ Re-Check".
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DOUBLE SAMPLING PLAN - NORMAL INSPECTION: Assurance an AQL 4.0% and a lot size is 1200 garments and the sample size is 80 garments. If the Number of defective garments found is 7, the total lot is "Acceptable" suppose if the defective garments found is 8 the total lot is "Reject/ Re-Check".
ACCEPTANCE QUALITY LEVEL

In virtually every production batch, there will be defective products. It is true even after the manufacturer has checked each individual product and has repaired the defective ones. Thus, in a supplier/buyer relationship, the supplier cannot be expected to deliver defectfree goods. However, the buyer wants to control the quality of purchased goods, since he does not want too many defects. The limit, as described above, is called the AQL. It stands for Acceptance Quality Limit, and is defined as the quality level that is the worst tolerable (ISO 2859 standard). For example: I want no more than 1.5% defective items in the whole order quantity, means the AQL is 1.5%. In practice, three types of defects are distinguished. For most consumer goods, the limits are: 0% for critical defects (totally unacceptable: a user might get harmed, or regulations are not respected). 2.5% for major defects (these products would usually not be considered acceptable by the end user). 4.0% for minor defects (there is some departure from specifications, but most users would not mind it). These proportions vary in function of the product and its market. Components used in building an airplane are subject to much lower AQL limits. The AQL tables are statistical tools at the disposal of buyers (for product inspections). They help determine two key elements: How many samples should be inspected? Where is the limit between acceptability and refusal, when it comes to defective Products? The need for an objective measurement of quality Before using the AQL tables, you should decide on three parameters: The lot size. If you ordered different products, the quantity of each product is a lot size, and separate inspections should be carried out for each lot. If you ordered only one
product, the lot size is your total order quantity. The inspection level. Different inspection levels will command different number of samples to inspect. In this article, we will stick to the so-called level II, under normal severity. The AQL level appropriate for your market. If your customers accept very few defects, you might want to set a lower AQL for both major and minor defects. There are basically two tables. The first one tells you which code letter to use. Then, the code letter will give you the sample size and the maximum numbers of defects that can be accepted.
FIRST TABLE: SAMPLE SIZE CODE LETTERS
Here lets assume that the lot size is comprised between 3,201pcs and 10,000pcs, and the inspection level is II. Consequently, the code letter is L.
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SECOND TABLE: SINGLE SAMPLING PLANS FOR LEVEL II INSPECTION (NORMAL SEVERITY)
The code letter is L, so we have to draw 200pcs randomly from the total lot size. Besides, assume the AQL at 2.5% for major defects and 4.0% for minor defects. Therefore, here are the limits: the products are accepted if NO MORE than 10 major defects AND NO MORE than 14 minor defects are found. For example, if you find 15 major defects and 12 minor defects, the products are refused. If you find 3 major defects and 7 minor defects, they are accepted. In quality inspections, the number of defects is only one of the criteria. It is sometimes called quality, or quality findings. The other criteria are usually on the inspectors checklist, which typically includes: Packaging conformity (barcodes, inner packing, cartons, shipping marks). Product conformity (aspect, workmanship). Specific tests defined in the inspection protocol (they might not be performed on all samples).

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Chapter 3 DEFECTS
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DEFECTS
Is it simple to understand what is meant by quality a neppy and slubby fabric can be best quality fabric for fancy garment manufacturer. The same will certainly be considered as the poorest quality fabric for other garment manufacturers because their requirement may be o nep and slub free fabric. This clearly reveals that anything which is of top-most quality for someone may or may not be quality product others. Above describe that Customer satisfaction is basically the customer's perception of a degree to which the customer requirements have been fulfilled this is why the same product may satisfy one customer and dissatisfy- other .As per ISO 9000: 2000 quality is a degree to which a set of inherent characteristics fulfill requirements. Quality assurance is all the planned and systematic activities implemented within the quality system and demonstrated as needed, to provide adequate confidence that a product or service (in the case it apparel) will fulfill requirements for quality. It is not like the quality control, which only deals with the operational techniques and activities that are used to fulfill requirements for quality. Some quality control and quality assurance actions are inter-related. Quality assurance is for both internal and external. v Internal quality assurance within an organization provides confidence to the management. v External quality assurance provides confidence to the customers and others. It is now clear that one has to fulfill the requirements for quality and at the time he has to provide an adequate confidence to the customer.
MAJOR DEFECTS: Which fails to meet the mandatory regulations directly affecting the salability and safety of the merchandise as the point of view of the customer. Which affect the salability but also affect the value of the merchandise is considered as major defective, the major defects cannot be rectified. Ex: Fabric hole, Broken stitch, size Jumped, Dye patches, etc. MINOR DEFECTS: These defects shall deteriorate the serviceability of the merchandise with in few washing or laundry minor defects rectify. Ex: Stain, Skip stitch, wavy bottom hem. Etc.
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If the defect found front side of the garment (when packed) which is considered as major, if it is found back side of the garment which is consider as minor defects. Defects are considered major & minor as per the customer demands.
TYPES OF DEFFECTS
There are various defects that are seen in the apparel industry in various stages of production. The following are the major kind of defects in the industry v Yarn defects v Fabric defects v Dyeing defects v Compacting defects v Spreading defects v Cutting defects v Embroidery defects v Printing Defects v Stitching defects v checking defects v Ironing defects v Packing defects v Mis handling of product by the workers
YARN DEFECTS Slub - An abnormally thick places or lump in yarn showing less twist at that place. Snarl Yarn - Yarn which kinks (twisted on to itself) due to insufficient tension after twisting. Soft Yarn - Yarn, which is weak indicating lesser twist Oil stained yarn - Yarn stained with oil Crackers - Very small snarl-like places in yarns which disappears when pulled with enough tension or yam with spring-like shane Bad piecing - Unduly thick piecing in yarn caused by over end piecing
Hairness - Protrusion of fiber ends from the main yarn structure Kitty yarns - Presence of black specks of broken seeds, leaf bits and trash in yarns Foreign matters-Metallic parts, jute flannel and other similar foreign matters spun along with yarns Thick & thin places - Measurable by uster imperfection indicator and observable on appearance boards. Neppy yarns - Yarns containing rolled in fiber mass, which can be clearly seen on black board at close distance, measurable on user imperfection indicator. Spun in fly - Fly or fluff cither spun along with the yarn or loosely embedded on the yarn. Oily slub - Slub in the yarn strained with oil
FABRIC DEFECTS After sampling and approval of sample, company goes for fabrication. There are several aspects which give problem during knitting They are Broken filaments - It occurs when the individual filaments constituting the main yarn are broken. Rectification: Nonmendable Coloured flecks - Presence of coloured foreign matter in the yarn. Rectification: The coloured portion should be carefully removed from the yarn with a plucker. If that is not possible, then it should be cut with a thread clipper from both the sides carefully and the cut portion should be removed with a plucker. The resultant bare patch can be corrected by combing with a metallic comb. Knots - It occur when broken threads are pieced together by improper knotting. Rectification: Non-mendable. Slub - A slub is a bunch of fibres having less teist or no twist and has a wider diameter compared to normal spun yarn. Rectification: The slub should be cut with thread clipper from both the ends carefully and the cut portion should be removed with a plucker. The resultant
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bare patch can be corrected either by conibine with a metallic comb or by the insertion of a separate thread with the help of a fine needle.
DYEING DEFECTS Dyeing is the process of imparting colours to a textile material in loose fibre, yarn, cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye. The major dyeing defects are v Formation of Patches v Improper Shade variation v Greece mark spots v Colour Fastness v Poor quality of dyes v Machine faults v Unevenness.
COMPACTING DEFECT Compact spinning, the system that ensures better optimum utilisation of costly raw material with minimum loss and damages to the fibre improves the yarn quality tremendously, more importantly on the hairiness aspect. This helps the weaver, besides less consumption of costly wet processing ingredients, with better machine efficiency particularly on looms and with a much cleaner atmosphere. In compacting following are the considerable defects v Greece mark v Padding line v Needle drop v Patches v Shade variation v Compacting line v Steaming line v Fabric holes v Oil strain v Knitting mistake
CUTTING DEFECTS Frayed Edges : The amount of fraying depends on fabric construction and finish. Improper cutting tools or dull knives causes excessive fraying in a pattern as the section is cut. This can be improved or prevented by proceeding proper cutting tools, and tools, & one should periodically check the knives. Fuzzy Ragged or Serrated Edges : The result of poor cutting implements, such edges will impede sewing and decrease sewing quality. Such a condition is caused by faulty knife edges such as burns, chips or dullness. This can be improved by providing a proper knife with sharp blades. Ply to Ply Fusion : More common & trouble some. Adjacent plies in a block are fused together, which makes it difficult for the sewing machine operator to pick up a single ply of creakily fusion occurs due to heat created by excessively high speed of cutting or by the friction of dull knife. In order to prevent fusion, one should check the knife speed, keeping the knives sharp, placing fusion paper between fabric plies & by lubricating the cutting blade. Single Edge Fusion : Consist of a single ply whose cut yam ends are fused to form a hard brittle fun on the cut edges. Some times, there is desirable to prevent fraying. However, hardness & brittleness are undesirable if they impede sewing manipulation or may result is seam uncomfortable to the consumer.
EMBRIODERY DEFECTS Embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as metal strips, pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. A characteristic of embroidery is that the basic techniques or stitches of the earliest work chain stitch, buttonhole or blanket stitch, running stitch, satin stitch, cross stitch remain the fundamental techniques of hand embroidery today. v Stitch mistake v Long ,Short,Medium, Loose
v Foam cutting mistake v Stitch removing v Colour yarns v Needle break v Needle bend v Non - cleaning of machines v Poor quality of yarn.
PRINTING DEFECTS Printing is a process for reproducing text and image, typically with ink on paper using a printing press. It is often carried out as a large-scale industrial process, and is an essential part of publishing and transaction printing v Colour variations v Measurement deviation v Low quality of printing v Print breaking v Fastness v Print feeling problem v Colour missing v Screen holes v Closed holes.
STITCHING DEFECTS One unit of confirmation of thread resulting from repeatedly passing a strand or strands or loops of thread into or through a material is called a stitch. Stitch types can be formed by without a material, Inside material, Through material, On material. The major defects the happens during stitching are v Skip stitch v Oil strains v Handling strain v Needle holes v Fabric holes
v Puckering v Open seam v Stitching waves
CHECKING DEFECTS: Even during the process of checking there is a probability of getting defects as follws v Oil strain v Handle strain v Pen marking v Small holes
IRONING DEFECTS: When the garments are ironed in a heat, the defect would arise as like the following v Over heat v Uneven edges v Shrinkage v Body shape change v Pressing mark v Uncut threads v Measurement deviation
PACKING DEFECTS: At the final stage of packing, mishandling of product by the workers will create defects. v Handle strain v Low quality of poly bag.
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Chapter 4 STANDARDS
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DIFFERENT TEXTILE AND APPAREL STANDARDS

In an industry with so many segments and interests, communicating quality requirements and supplying goods of the appropriate quality level are difficult. Professional and trade organizations have developed to educate members and enhance communication among industry segments. Several organizations, which are available for quality standards identify and define terms, develop consistent practices within the field for describing and evaluating materials and process, encourage fair trade practices, Develop technological advances to remain competitive in the world market and promote the textile industry. Major organizations for Quality Standards are American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) American Society for Quality (ASQ) American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) TC2 Textile / Clothing Technology Corp American National Standards Institute (ANSI) International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)

AATCC is the worlds leading not-for-profit association serving textile professionals since 1921.AATCC is headquartered in Research Triangle Park, N.C., USA, providing test method development, quality control materials, and professional networking for thousands of members in 60 countries throughout the world. The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) was founded by Dr. Louis Olney of the Lowell Textile School in 1921. AATCC is the world's leading not-for-profit professional association for the textile design, materials, processing, and testing industries. It develops procedures to assess the characteristics of materials and their performance in the areas of Wet processing, Dyeing, Care, Biological properties and other related factors These procedures are sometimes described as wet tests because liquids, such as water and other solvents are used in preparing specimens or in the procedure. AATCC standards and test methods are developed by research committees after extensive investigation and inter laboratory comparisons. Development or extensive revision of a procedure reflects several years of work. Three level hierarchies approve test methods before they are published in the Technical Manual. A
test method is reviewed annually for its first three years of existence. After that it is reviewed every five years and reaffirmed, revised or withdrawn
American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)

ASTM International, formerly known as the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), is a globally recognized leader in the development and delivery of international voluntary consensus standards. Today, some 12,000 ASTM standards are used around the world to improve product quality, enhance safety, facilitate market access and trade, and build consumer confidence. ASTM is one of the oldest professional organizations in United States. ASTM was established in 1898. ASTM consists of more than 130 technical committees, is international in scope and supports the work of National Institute of Standards and Technology. ASTM Committee D-13 focuses on textiles; other committees focus on other materials or products, such as leather and building materials. ASTM procedures are used to identify physical characteristics and assess performance related to physical-mechanical procedures. These procedures are often referred to as dry procedures because the materials are most often tested in the dry state. ASTM also works with industry, government, and others interested in developing uniform standards.
American Society for Quality (ASQ)

The American Society for Quality (ASQ) is an organization of professionals who work to improve the quality of manufactured goods services and related factors. ASQ has developed a professional code of ethics to guide professional practices. ASQ has technical committees and a certification program for professionals. The society publishes a newsletter, On Q, ten times a year; Quality progress, a monthly journal that includes articles on quality methods and issues; several journals that examine technical, theoretical, and practical issues related to quality; and books related to quality issues. Fundamental Principles ASQ requires it members and certification holders to conduct themselves ethically by Being honest and impartial in serving the public, their employers, customers and clients Striving to increase the competence and
prestige of quality profession, and Using their knowledge and skill for enhancement of human welfare.
American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA)

The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) is the national trade association representing apparel, footwear and other sewn products companies, and their suppliers, which compete in the global market. AAFA members actively serve on some 14 committees, subcommittees, councils and divisions. The Committees are classified under the following Headings Government, Trade and Regulatory Issues Management Issues Divisions and Specialty Markets Technology Issues:
TC2 Textile / Clothing Technology Corp

TC2 was established in 1981 as a coalition of leaders in the U.S textile and apparel industry, Labor unions and government organizations. TC2 focuses on improving the sewn products industry to make it more productive, competitive and cost effective. It works with manufacturers to develop new processes, equipment, and implementation procedures
American National Standards Institute (ANSI)

The American National Standards Institute, which is a federation of many organizations, agencies, and groups, coordinates all national voluntary agencies that develop standards. It has an accredited certificate program. Certification attests that products have been tested and meet specified requirements. These requirements are usually based on minimum performance characteristics and often relate to such health and safety issues as strength of structural steel components used in bridges and buildings. Many ASTM procedures have been approved by the ANSI, and this is the indicated in the designation of the test method.
ISO Standard
ISO 9000 is a family of standards for quality management. It is maintained by the International Organization for Standardization and is administered by the accreditation and certification bodies. ISO 9000 addresses quality management standards as to what an organization needs to fulfill. It assesses the organizations ability to meet customer and regulatory requirements, quality management system, and provides guidelines for performance improvement. It is one of the renowned international standards that have been implemented by countless companies in more than 150 countries. ISO standards aim at: A set of procedures to cover all key processes in the business. Monitor the process and ensure its effectiveness. Quality requirements of customers. Checking outputs for defects, and taking corrective actions in appropriate places. Applicable regulatory requirements to enhance customer satisfaction. Achieve continuous improvement of performance.
ISO 9000:2000 and ISO 9001:2000: Earlier till December 2000, there used to be ISO 9000, ISO 9001, ISO 9002 and ISO 9003 standards. During December 2000, the International Organization for Standardization merged all of them into a revised ISO 9001 standard. To distinguish between the earlier standards and the revised one, the later was referred to as ISO 9001:2000 or ISO 9000:2000. For all practical purposes, ISO 9000 and ISO 9001 connote the same, and 2000 indicates the year of its revision.
APPLICATION IN THE TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRIES:

Textile and apparel industries have many complicated activities and challenges involved in the course of its operation. Their operation incurs heavy expenditure to the manufacturers. Many textile and apparel industries have implemented ISO standards to lower its operating costs and improve the quality of its output, ultimately increasing the level of customer satisfaction. Textile and apparel industries account for a sizable percent of manufacturing jobs in a global perspective. They employ
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millions of people directly and indirectly. They form a massive industrial complex and prove to be a big contributor among the manufacturing industries of any country. Some textile and apparel industries view ISO certification is only necessary as a factor for exports. But, the main matter of concern in textile industry is that an imperative relation exists between the quality of the materials and the quality of the final product. ISO standards enable the industry to enhance the quality of raw material input, thereby strengthening the quality of the ultimate product. This will result in a systematic approach to management, incessant performance improvement, factual approach towards the decision making process, and a mutually benefiting suppliers relationship. Thus is helps the manufacturers in 'Weaving a Quality Industry'.
MARKET FOR ISO CERTIFICATION:

As every day passes by, global competition is heating up. Textile and apparel industries are in the midst of major changes. To keep pace with the market scenario, industries rely more on quality and innovative fabrics, and apparels, and quick response to the needs of the customer. Innovations in the fields of Nano textiles, nonwovens, electro textiles, medical textiles, and geo textiles are providing new opportunities for the manufacturers and tap the market. Simultaneously, these opportunities also encompass them with critical challenges. Organizations today engage in many international trade activities, and this certification proves a pre-requisite for their survival in international competition. ISO certification helps the companies in market creation and penetration.
BENEFITS OF ISO:
Implementation of ISO helps the textile and apparel industries to enhance their product and process quality, minimizes defective supplies and reworking. Furthermore, it can also be used as a marketing tool. As it is a well-recognized standard for quality, it shows the customers that the company takes quality seriously. ISO certified companys focus more on the quality of its products and operations. It also motivates the employees in improving quality. The cost of implementing ISO is comparatively cheaper to the benefits derived out of it. Many ISO certified companies positively assert that their total costs went down to a considerable extent regarding quality maintenance after the implementation of ISO.
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To achieve the overall objective we shall need to establish, document and maintain a system capable of ensuring that products conform in total to standards, specifications and sealed samples. This will be required at every stage of manufacture. Records must be maintained to give objective evidence that the specified requirements. There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is based such as - performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment. Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost.
REVIEW OF THE QUALITY SYSTEM

To be effective the system requires planned periodic review by Senior Management to ensure its effectiveness is maintained. This will entail internal audits, which must be positive and not conducted solely as a matter of expediency resulting from a quality problem. By a Quality Standard we mean the establishment of the threshold at which level of severity a defect becomes unacceptable, i.e. a fault. It is the equivalent of tolerances applicable to measurable factors. Quality Standards like AATCC, ASTM, BS, DIN, JIS and ISO must be recognized and agreed by all levels of Management. In the absence of such agreement the operative does not know what is expected of him or her, becomes frustrated, and leaves, with the ensuing needlessly high laborturnover and training costs of new labor.
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CONCLUSION
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CONCLUSION
Quality control is a process employed to ensure a certain level of quality in a product or service. It may include whatever actions a business deems necessary to provide for the control and verification of certain characteristics of a product or service. The basic goal of quality control is to ensure that the products, services, or processes provided meet specific requirement and are dependable, satisfactory,and fiscally sound. Quality is ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. Good Quality increases the value of a product or service, establishes brand name, and builds up good reputation for the garment exporter, which in turn results into consumer satisfaction, high sales and foreign exchange for the country. The perceived quality of a garment is the result of a number of aspects, which together help achieve the desired level of satisfaction for the customer. Therefore quality control in terms of garment, pre-sales service, posts -sales service, delivery, pricing, etc are essentials for any garment exporter. Quality control program not only help spot and reject defective items, but more importantly they pinpoint production operations that need special attention, thereby reducing the number of defects in future production. This type quality control provides basis for management decisions in the manufacturers plant.
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BIBILIOGRAPHY
WEBSITES :
http://www.textileschool.com/School http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article http://www.gotapparel.com http://www.teonline.com http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com http://www.fashion-incubator.com
ARTICLES :
Cotton-textile-apparel sectors of India: situations and challenges Fibre to fabric Apparel online
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Pradeepan MP

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Prospectus

of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

2. Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn Product Analysis - Glock Ruth E., Glock

3. Total quality management - Besterfield

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

4. APPAREL TESTING AND TEXTILE TESTING: INTERTEK

5. GLOBAL APPAREL INDUSTRY AT A ''TIPPING POINT''

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

Production samples Shipment samples

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

ACCEPTANCE QUALITY LEVEL

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

FIRST TABLE: SAMPLE SIZE CODE LETTERS

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

v Puckering v Open seam v Stitching waves

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

DIFFERENT TEXTILE AND APPAREL STANDARDS

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)

Prospectus of Quality Control in Apparel Industry

American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)