EXP NO 4 MEASUREMENT OF RANDOM WAVES

02.02.2011
AIM:
To measure random waves in the 2m wave flume and compare the measured spectrum
with target spectrum.
APPARATUS REQUIRED:
Wave Flume with piston type wave maker
Wave Probe
PC with WS4 Software

INTRODUCTION:
A random wave is the wave which has many wave amplitudes and frequencies that are
arranged randomly in time. All ocean waves are random. In this experiment, the random
waves generated in the flume are measured for a given H
s
and T
p.
The wave spectrum is
obtained from the measured wave time series and a comparison was made with the
expected target spectrum for Pierson Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum.

(a) JONSWAP Spectrum:
The JONSWAP spectrum was developed during Joint North Sea Wave Project in
1973. The formula for the PM spectrum is given by the equation
( )
(
(

(
(

|
|
.
|

\
|
=
2
0
2
0
2
exp
4
0
5 2
25 . 1 exp ) (
te
e e

e
e
e o e g S

Where
o = ( )
22 . 0
0
076 . 0

X where
0
X is fetch or equal to 0.081if
0
X is unknown
e = angular frequency in rad/ s
2


0
e = Peak frequency, rad/ s
2

= Peakedness parameter, 3.3 (average)
t = Shape parameter (
a
t = 0.07 for
0
e e < and
b
t =0.09 for
0
e e > )
(b) Pierson-Moskowitz Spectrum:
The Pierson-Moskowitz Spectrum is given by the equation


4
5
2
4
0 0
( ) 5 exp 1.25 S
e e
e o
e e

(
| | | |
( =
| |
(
\ . \ .


Where H
s
=

Significant wave height

= H
s
/4
e = Angular frequency in rad/ s
2


0
e = Peak frequency, rad/ s
2


PROCEDURE:
The water depth was noted down accurately average of 5 points min.
The wave probe was fixed about 15 20 m from the wave maker. The wave probe
was calibrated.
The 2-D spectral generation option was selected in the WS4 software. Defined
spectrum is selected.
Values of the significant wave height, peak period are given as input to generate the
random time series and the generated random wave was recorded.
The experiment was conducted for different Spectra.
The power to the piston wave maker is switched on. The generated time series is
given as an input to the wave-maker.
The generated wave height - time series is measured using a wave probe.
FFT technique was incorporated to attain the wave spectral density functions..
The wave spectrum was obtained from the measured wave.
The theoretical and measured PM spectrum was compared.
The theoretical and measured JONSWAP spectrum was compared.
Compare P-M spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum.

RESULTS AND DISSCUSSION:
JONSWAP SPECTRUM

Figure 4.1: Theoretical JONSWAP Spectrum

Figure 4.2: The measured time series of the JONSWAP Spectrum
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
omega
s
(
o
m
e
g
a
)
-2 0 2 4 6 8 10
x 10
4
-8
-6
-4
-2
0
2
4
6
8
10
Time(milli sec)
e
t
a
(
c
m
)



Figure 4.3: The measured JONSWAP Spectrum

PIERSON MOSKOWITZ SPECTRUM

Figure 4.4: Theoretical P-M Spectrum
0.0
2.0
4.0
6.0
8.0
10.0
12.0
14.0
0.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 20.0 25.0 30.0 35.0
S
p
e
c
t
r
a
l

d
e
n
s
i
t
y

S
(

)

Angular frequency
Measured JONSWAP
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
omega
s
(
o
m
e
g
a
)

Figure 4.5: The measured time series of the Pierson-Moskowitz Spectrum


Figure 4.6: The measured P-M Spectrum



-2 0 2 4 6 8 10
x 10
4
-6
-4
-2
0
2
4
6
8
10
Time(milli seconds)
e
t
a
(
c
m
)
-0.5
0.0
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
0.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 20.0 25.0 30.0 35.0
S
p
e
c
t
r
a
l

d
e
n
s
i
t
y

S
(

)

Angular frequency
Measured PM

COMPARISON



Figure 4.7: Comparison of measured JONSWAP Spectrum and measured P-M Spectrum




Figure 4.8: Comparison of measured JONSWAP Spectrum and theoretical JONSWAP Spectrum

-2
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
0.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 20.0 25.0 30.0 35.0
S
p
e
c
t
t
r
a
l

d
e
n
s
i
t
y

S
(

)

Angular frequency
Measured JONSWAP
Measured P-M
-2
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
0.0 10.0 20.0 30.0 40.0
S
p
e
c
t
r
a
l

d
e
n
s
i
t
y

S
(

)

Angular frequency
Measured JONSWAP
Theoretical JONSWAP


Figure 4.9: Comparison of measured P-M Spectrum and theoretical P-M Spectrum



CONCLUSION:
The measured spectral density function of the P-M spectrum was compared with
that of the JONSWAP spectrum.
The theoretical JONSWAP spectrum was compared with the measured
JONSWAP spectrum.
The theoretical P-M spectrum was compared with the measured P-M spectrum.
-0.5
0.0
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
0.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 20.0 25.0 30.0 35.0
S
p
e
c
t
r
a
l

d
e
n
s
i
t
y

S
(

)

Angular frequency
Measured PM
Theoretical PM