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LEE McCONNELL
THE 400M RUNNER ON THE OLYMPICS AND WEDDINGS

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At Edinburgh Napier University we are always looking for ways to improve the university experience for our students and no-one is better placed to tell us than you. We would like to open the oor to your new ideas on how to make academic life better. To enter, simply visit www.napier.ac.uk/openminds

THE NATION OF

THE FESTIVAL
summer

SCOTLAND
LOCATIONS INDEPENDENCE
summer 2012

FILM

THE FACE OF

2012

I
Turn this.

means youve picked up Issue three of buzz Magazine, the latest collaborative effort between MA Journalism and MSc Publishing students at Edinburgh Napier University. We aim to cover a variety of interesting stories and events for students and young professionals in and around Edinburgh. The previous issues over the last couple of years set an incredibly high standard, and weve worked hard to match that this time around. After weeks of commitment and effort from everyone involved, I am really proud of what the team managed to produce here. Inside youll find a great range of exclusive articles, including our interview with the guys behind BrewDog, one of Scotlands most interesting success stories of the last decade (page 28). Further in, weve got a look at some of the arguments behind the Scottish Independence debate (page 36), an interview with Olympic athlete and medal winner Lee McConnell (page 46), incredible fashion shoots around Edinburgh (page 60), and so much more. But its not just limited to the magazine. On our website you can enjoy our buzz extra content and articles, including tips for beating stress through meditation, a look at some of the people behind protest camps at Faslane and Bilston Glen, and a range of news and reviews from our team of writers. Check it all out at www.buzzmag.org. We think that, thanks to the hard work of everyone involved, this latest issue is easily the best yet. With buzz Magazine 2012, there really is something for everybody. Joseph Blythe

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CONTENTS
SUMMER 2012

48

12
06
06 08 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 25

arts & culture

MANY FEET MAKE LIGHT WORK EDINBURGHS LEAGUE OF HEROES BLENDING THE SOCIAL RULES TOP OF THE SCOTS FESTIVAL NATION THE COMPLETE FESTIVAL AVOIDANCE GUIDE THE BRIGHT SPARKS OF COMEDY AULD REEKIE GAINS NEW FANS DIGITAL DAWN A CLUB NIGHT WITH A TWIST

44
44 46 48

sport
ON THE EDGE... THE OLYMPIAN LEAP OF FAITH

50

travel
EUROTRIP SKYES THE LIMIT WANT TO SEE THE WORLD? SCOTLAND: THE SURPRISING HOME OF WIZARDS, SPIES AND KING ARTHUR

28

54

50 52 54 56

28
28 32

food & drink

ITS ALL ABOUT THE BEER CHEAP EATS IN THE CITY

60
60 64 66

fashion
FASHION CAPITAL BOUTIQUE CHIC LIFE AS A TOPMAN

34
34 36 38 40 42

in focus
SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GO? THE SHAPE OF INDEPENDENCE WHEN PROTEST BECOMES A LIFESTYLE MIND YOURSELF FOOD FACTS: THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE WEIRD

40

60

ARTS & CULTURE

MANY FEET MAKE

LIGHT WORK
An innovative arts event will light up Arthurs Seat this summer
WORDS DUNCAN MACLAREN PHOTOGRAPH ALAN MCATEER. COURTESY OF NVA

OR THREE weeks in August, Edinburghs famous extinct volcano will come to life through an ambitious event which combines sport with performance art. Every night of the International Festival, Arthurs Seat will be aglow not with flowing lava, but with a carefully choreographed display of runners, sporting custom-made light suits. Speed of Light is the brainchild of Angus Farquhar, Creative Director of the Glasow-based arts charity, Nacionale Vitae Activa, (NVA). A marathon runner himself, he is no more a stranger to sport than he is to art: Im usually fairly passionate

about the subject matter, certainly Speed of Light is pretty close to my heart. Im a really keen runner. If youre making a work with 4000 athletes, its really useful to be one, because you can see it from the perspective of those who will make the work. Farquhar has a wealth of experience in landscape art. In the 1980s he re-established the Beltane Fire Festival on Calton Hill (originally planned for Arthurs Seat). His more recent work has included dramatic installations of light, music and poetry at the Old Man of Storr on the Isle of Skye, and in Glen Lyon in Perthshire.

Each performance will use a different group of runners, making this a truly participative event. Spectators will have a birds-eye view from the higher slopes of Arthurs Seat. Purpose-built light sticks, designed to illuminate the path, will assist their climb, and add to the overall visual impact. At its simplest, the event will allow participants and spectators to experience how the feel of a space changes as they move through it. By doing this at night, using moving actors and sharp points of light, a dramatically modulated landscape will be created. As well as promising a unique visual spectacle, Speed of Light also hopes to explore some of the intriguing questions concerning what we gain from pushing ourselves to our limits. Farquhar wonders, for example, whether the exhilaration produced by physical endurance offers something like an alternative spirituality for today: Theres some very rich territory to explore around endurance, and how thats

used in a secular society; perhaps [not unlike] what the church used to do - things like this begin to become other ways that people can find space or deeper values in their lives. Already the idea has caught on. Thousands of volunteer runners have signed up to take part, a good indication for Angus Farquhar that the project has intuitive appeal: It is actually a complex piece of work; but something that people automatically get without cheapening the work, and were enjoying that. Speed of Light is one of four national projects commissioned to form part of the legacy of the London 2012 Olympic Games. The work will be further extended through a series of blogs, lectures, related events, and co-commissions, in partnership with eight of the Edinburgh festivals. It will run from Thursday 9th August to Saturday 1st September, 8pm to 1.30am. Tickets available from www.eif.co.uk

EDINBURGHS
LEAGUE OF HEROES
It is a question debated in playgrounds and pubs around the world: if you could have a super power, what would it be?
WORDS GEMMA MCCALLAN

Four of Edinburghs finest rising talents spoke to us about what theyre working on and more...

KAYLA MARIE HILLIER

Kayla Marie Hillier

Canadian-born Kayla is currently working on character designs for a project called No Romance. Im also working on a book about lady bits which will be written by [Singer] Rosin Tuohy. The proudest moments of her career so far include the 100-page webcomic Galavant, and acceptance into The Toronto Comic Arts Festival. Hillier believes that the medium of comics is very versatile: there are some things you can get across in a drawing that conveys an emotion words could never capture. American indie creator Jeffrey Brown has been a huge influence. I think my artwork is a bit different. Its very loose and kind of sketchy. Its honest, reflective and personal.

JAMIE WRIGHT

Wright is fairly new to the scene it wasnt until he started his apocalyptic fantasy web-comic Uncreation in 2010 that he began to take his craft seriously. Jamies proudest moment has been meeting comics legend, Frank Quietly, and discovering that the old pro is a fan of his work. A close second came when I found out someone had drawn [a] dirty picture of one of my characters on the internet thats basically a sign that youve made it! The medium is a perfect way of combining his love of art and storytelling; Ive got some strange obsessions and I like to depict the kinds of people that tend to get overlooked in comics.

T DOESNT TAKE X-ray vision to see the effect of comic books. Theyve been stimulating our imagination for over 150 years, using graphic images and imaginative story-lines that work in tandem together. The Adventures of Obidiah Oldbuck, published in 1837 in Switzerland is thought to be the first comic book, but the genre really took off after 1900 in the form of small strips in American newspapers, nicknamed the funnies. They have now evolved into a diverse and popular form of entertainment worldwide, varying from lighthearted and humorous accounts to stories with much darker themes. Many characters, such as the Green Hornet or Stan Lees X Men have been brought to life on the big screen, adding further dimensions to these iconic works. Even superstar songstress Madonna released a 32-page comic based on her life last summer. She is the latest celebrity to lend her name to the

Female Force series, which features influential women such as Hilary Clinton and Oprah Winfrey. According to statistics released by Diamond Comic Distributors, sales of comic books and graphic novels are increasing year on year, and it has been predicted that the multi-million pound industry will continue to grow. Humour is still the best selling genre: Dundee-based titles The Beano and The Dandy have entertained generations of families around the world, an old-fashioned staple of the Christmas stocking. Edinburgh is now arriving on the map when it comes to this blossoming industry. The city is home to a growing number of artists, resulting in the creation of the Edinburgh League of Comics last year. Describing themselves as a Hive Mind, the ELC is a meeting point for writers and artists to discuss their medium, and share their work with one-another.

PAUL MCCALLAN

After studying design at university and working in a comic book store, Irishman McCallan realised his passion was attainable if he was willing to work in his spare time, and devote himself to learning the craft. This resulted in Pauls work being published in the small Sci-fi comic Futurequake, which he hails as his proudest moment so far. He is working on a short story with a film-maker from Belfast, entitled Fallen Angels, and has recently completed the first issue of Nestor, a work written in conjunction with countryman Mike Lynch.

EDWARD ROSS

Writer and artist Ross is one of the original organisers of the ELC. Hes currently working on a comic for an Edinburgh-based malaria group, which has allowed him to collaborate with other talented individuals. Comics have a real potential to communicate interesting and difficult ideas, and its up to the creators to push forwards and see what they can do with the form. He adds Theres freedom and a frontier spirit thats cool to be part of. Youre also much more engaged with your work and your audience when all you really need is a pen and paper to make a comic

Summer 2012

Jamie Wright

arts & culture

Blending The Soci@l Rules

They say a stranger is just a friend you havent met yet...

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS KATE THOMSON and features a GPS, allowing your new friends, to see exactly where you are. Blendr has been an international success, even getting past strict censoring laws in countries like China. The tiny Pacific islands of Nauru and Tuvalu are now the only places the company hasnt penetrated. In the name of research, I wrote my profile, picked my interests, snapped a picture and dived in to see what the world loves about Blendr. Several of the strongest relationships I know met online. My friends, in their mid-twenties, use the Internet to find jobs and keep up with their friends. Theres no reason why the Internet cant be used to find romantic partners as well. But Blendr isnt the same as traditional dating websites. Its all about immediacy. Once Ive chosen a reasonably anonymous Blendr name, Im shown the list of people in my vicinity. The first thing that strikes me is the lack of women. In the spirit of friendship, Ive opted to see both sexes by ignoring the gender filter, but there are hardly any ladies on my list. So

TS NOT about sex, apparently. Blendr, the location-based mobile chatting app attempts to unveil opportunities for meeting people in your local area. Blendr claims to be the end of sitting in the park alone. But is this an attempt to glorify the promise of a quickie in the bushes? The idea is simple: download Blendr from the Apple store, create a profile and choose strangers with whom to chat from a list of pictures. Its like Facebook, but with a twist. Blendr operates in real time, involves people you dont know,

much for creator Joel Simkhais insistence that the friendfinding engine isnt purely for sex and dating. There are some really original opening lines (do you have any raisins? or I run with scissors), from men who provide funny chat for a few hours diversion, but these conversations tail off eventually. They are also few and far between; seriously outweighed by men whose corny shoutouts barely mask an agenda (hey gorgeous or what u doing right now?). Im surprised by the credentials of the users profiles. Their ages range from 18 to 32, and there are plenty of attractive profile pictures.

But is it, as Simkhai hopes, the icebreaker that enables people to meet and see if theres chemistry? Not for me. Opportunities were there but never felt right. On my first day I was chatting with EdinburghGuy (1.4km) when out of the blue he said, You want some company? Its on offer if u want it. Ur not to far away and I can b with u soon. I felt a bit betrayed wed been talking about kids TV shows and this sudden acceleration was uninvited. Most of all, it shocked me that this man could see how far away he was from me. One Saturday morning I woke up and was taken aback by a picture message of an

erect penis. I asked, does this usually work? He wrote back ha ha, usually. But obviously not with you. The distance display reassured me that there were 6.2 kilometres between us. No such luck for my friend, who received a similar photograph on Blendr while on the train home. The user distance said 0.8 metres. When she looked up, the man opposite was winking at her. She got off the train. I was jaded for the rest of my Blendr experience. Even after philosophical discussion about Karl Popper with a handsome Swede, I was suspicious when he asked if I wanted to go for coffee. Simkhai said We can blend you with people in your area who share your interests The idea that a company can tell us how to construct our relationships implies terrifying control over our personal lives.

We can blend you with people in your area who share your interests
After three days of Blendr I was tired of being accessible to any stranger who wanted to contact me. I was bored of random chats that either went nowhere or turned dirty, sad that I was less trusting, and beginning to realise how much I value my privacy. The app claims to put an end to solitude. Is it unacceptable these days to be alone with your thoughts or a good book? Im moving to Tuvalu.

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TOP OF THE SCOTS

With the summer ahead and jam-packed with festivals, here are five acts you should not miss
WORDS ALEXANDRA WINGATE PHOTOGRAPHY NIC SHANFELD

THE TWILIGHT SAD

H
AILING FROM KILSYTH, everything about this indierock-meets-electro-goth trio screams Scottish from their broad, unmistakable accents, to their melancholic melodies. With their latest album, No One Can Ever Know, anti-produced by Andrew Weatherall and selling on five continents, these guys are preparing to take over the world. Touring is the name of the game for The Twilight Sad in 2012; having played throughout both the UK and the US, theyll be spending April gigging their way through Europe.

ADMIRAL FALLOW
I
F THERES ONE THING that defines this Glaswegian band, its their ability to pull a crowd. Having supported the likes of Snow Patrol and Paolo Nutini, their headline Celtic Connections gig at the O2 ABC earlier this year was a sell out. And if thats not enough, theyre also gaining popularity on the other side of the pond; their single Squealing Pigs was used in an episode of NBCs Chuck, with an instrumental mix aired during the Super Bowl 2012. Recently signed to Nettwerk, their latest album, Tree Bursts In Snow, will be released on 21st May, coming at the end of a two-month tour of the UK and Ireland.

PEEPSHOW
T
HEY BURST ONTO the music scene last year, and already theyre making a name for themselves. After a self-promoted first album, their second LPs teaser tracks have received over a quarter of a million hits. With the release of Brand New Breeds first single, Let Go, the band made it through to the judging stage of Hard Rock Rising: The Global Battle of the Bands. Having supported the likes of Backyard Babies and CrashDiet to sell-out crowds, this year is all about PEEPSHOW: There arent really any bands in Scotland that are like us. Were not shoegazing indies; were all about theatrics and excitement.

RACHEL SERMANNI
S
HE MAY ONLY BE TWENTY, but Sermanni sounds like an older, wiser soul; one who knows the pain of a broken heart and the longing for an eternity with a soulmate. Being from the small village of Carrbridge in the Highlands didnt stop Rachel from topping the Coalition Singles charts (compiled by the top twenty independent record stores in the UK) earlier this year with her debut EP, Black Currents. Shes also had her music played on BBC Radio 1 and 2 and supported Elvis Costello, Ron Sexsmith and Michael Kiwanuka. The focus this year is to release her first album. All my current songs have been toured for a long time. Its time to set them free, and this is the right year to do that.

KID CANAVERAL
HEN AVALANCHE RECORDS Scotlands biggest independent music retailer announced they had the best-selling album of 2010, it was no surprise that Kid Canaveral were quickly snapped up by Fence Records. A year later and the two-boy, two-girl Edinburgh indie-pop group havent stopped: theyve gigged in New York and at SXSW, had daytime airplay on BBC Radio 1, played both Belladrum and T in the Park and toured with Fence label boss King Creosote.This spring sees the launch of a much-anticipated EP followed by their second album in October. Both full, the band promise, of more indie-pop tunes you can move around and flail your limbs to.

The Twilight Sad

arts & culture

Festival Nation

WORDS PAMELA PATERSON AND SAM KHAN-MCINTYRE

names are playing this year from 31st August to 2nd September, including Kickin Country, Carson City and Southern Boulevard. Tickets are 124 and available from David Urquhart travel at 0845 330 3747. Cumbrae is best reached by car. The trip includes a thirty minute ferry crossing. Hotel accommodation is easily available. eleCTriC FrOg A more contemporary option, this Glasgow electronic festival is celebrating its third year from April 7th to 8th. The organisers describe their line-up as iconic, last years event included exclusive appearances from Francois Kevorkian and Kode 9. Local DJs from Glasgows club community perform alongside emerging talent. The festival is held outdoors, with food and bar vendors contributing to the party atmosphere. This years festival will be held at The Peoples Palace and Winter Gardens, in central Glasgow. Tickets are available from Ticket Scotland at 0131 220 3234 or 0141 204 5151 and are priced at 25/day or 50/weekend. edinburgh Jazz and blues FesTival Held from 20th to 29th July, this 33-year old festival is an Edinburgh staple. Spread across various venues, this event showcases new talent, aiming to support Scottish musicians, while also featuring numerous international artists. The programme showcases a musical range from fusion to free jazz. Tickets are sold per event, and are available from the box office at 01314675200. Accommodation is tough to find, so book in advance!

Top Five European Music Festivals

The FesTival inTernacional de Benicssim, spain
Located between Barcelona and Valencia, Benicssim is Spains largest music festival, lasting four days. Acts confirmed this year include The Stone Roses, Florence + the Machine and The Vaccines. Dates: 12th - 16th July 2012 Cost: Around 150

OPENNER FESTIVAL

opener FesTival, poland

Gdynia on Polands northern coast will feature a wide range of artists, theatre groups and other performers at this four-day event. The 2012 line up includes Friendly Fires, Bon Iver and The xx, as well as several Polish bands. Dates: 4th - 7th July 2012 Cost: Around 80

INMUSIC FESTIVAL

Inter-Tunety playing at the Orkney Folk Festival in 2011

Tomorrowland FesTival, Belgium

This psychedelic dance-oriented festival takes place in the appropriately named Boom, in Belgium. Running since 2005, the festival boasts a fairy-tale theme. Some of this years acts include Calvin Harris, Pendulum and Fatboy Slim. Dates: 27th - 29th July 2012 Cost: Around 145

HE INTIMATE, calm atmosphere of small music festivals have made them increasingly popular with Scottish audiences. They offer a relaxed alternative to the evermore commercial world of larger festivals. Buzz has identified this seasons most promising lesserknown musical extravaganzas. The Orkney FOlk FesTival Held 31st May to 3rd June in Stromness, this far Northern festival is celebrating its thirtieth year. With thirty artists performing over four days, there is an intimate and friendly atmosphere. Visitors can also make music with the artists. Festival Organiser, Craig Corse, says: There are pub music sessions in an informal atmosphere which are free to attend, musicians rub shoulders with the artists. This is the folk

attitude, of experimentation and communal essence. The music is described as a mixture of traditional and more daring kinds of styles, because new audiences want to see something different. The ages of audience members are widely varied, but the festival is particularly popular with fifteen thirty year olds. Tickets are sold per event for under 15 from the Folk Festival office on 0185 685 1331. Stromness has a hotel, hostel, and campsite accommodation, but space and tickets are limited, so book your trip early! MendelssOhn On Mull This chamber music festival, held from 1st to 7th July on the Isle of Mull, offers relaxing, classical music. The musicians are young, ranging from teenagers to those in their late twenties. This festival is great for students, as amazingly,

its free. Jane Nicholson, PR for the festival, says: The idea behind it is to take these musicians out of solitary life and put them in a beautiful setting. Its an inspiration and a complete change, thus influencing the music. The standard is absolutely top notch. She adds that, The audience is of all ages, and includes families with young children. While there are events across the Isle, its best to stay in Tobermory, where there are plenty of bed and breakfasts, a youth hostel and camping. This port town is easy to reach via the bus or ferry service from Oban. MillpOrT COunTry and WesTern FesTival Set in the picturesque town of Cumbrae on the Isle of Millport, this three-day event is filled with bands and line dancing. Some big

inmusic FesTival, croaTia

Croatias biggest open air event takes place on an island in Lake Jarun near Zagreb. Lasting over two days, the festival has been rated as one of the best in Europe. Franz Ferdinand and Plan B will be among the acts appearing this year. Dates: 28th - 30th June 2012 Cost: Around 55

ROSKILDE FESTIVAL

roskilde european music FesTival, denmark

Known as Europes largest music and culture festival, Roskilde has been running since 1971 and is part of a non-profit organisation to promote music and culture. Originally an event for hippies, the festival has become much more mainstream, and can last up to a week, with 24 hour parties, organic Scandinavian food and experimental art included in the fun. 2012 sees Bruce Springsteen, Bjork and Wiz Khalifa taking to the stage. Dates: 5th - 8th July 2012 (the campsite opens on 30th June) Cost: Around 200
Photographs: Orkney Media Group; Tomek Kaminski (www.opener.pl); Julien Duval; A. Rawicz

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The BRIGHT sparks of comedy

WORDS SUZANNE NEILSON PHOTOGRAPHS FIONA LETHBRIDGE

Its a strange phenomenon when an enjoyable night out can be spent learning about the finer points of beetle sperm, tree engineering and crayfish; but that is exactly the kind of evening you can expect from the Bright Club...
NCE A month Edinburghs academics and researchers trade in their labcoats for the stand-up mic. Presenting their findings through comedy, these intellectuals prove that not only is brainy the new sexy, its also the new funny. Conceived by University College London scholars, Bright Club aims to engage public interest in university activities, giving audiences a good laugh in the process. Bright Clubs have since begun popping up all over the country; in Newcastle, Manchester, Cardiff, Dundee and now Edinburgh. A trial run followed by a successful, high-profile night in the BBC tent at the Edinburgh Festival kickstarted the club. But what attracts the academic to leave their natural habitat for the often hostile environment of the comedy club? We spoke to Bright Club performer and professor of English and Film at Edinburgh Napier University, Sarah Artt to find out. I think theres a lot of material for comedy in academic research. Stand-up and teaching have a lot in common. You do have to be concerned

Enjoying the comedy in Edinburgh

Sarah Artt

about keeping your audiences attention as a teacher but you get to swear. Artt has a penchant for film adaptations, particularly Jane Austen and it was this that made up the material for her first gig. I got to joke about how you wouldnt think you could wear out a DVD like it was an old porn tape from the eighties: watching Mr Darcy going in and out of the water over and over again and call it work, but you can! The transition from academia to stand-up isnt always easy, so in true university style prospective performers are given assigned readings to introduce them to the science of stand-up. Usually they give you a book called How to be a Great Standup and youre given exercises

like how jokes work. And the analysis doesnt stop there; All of the individual sets are always eight minutes, which is apparently the perfect amount of time for you to say something interesting and for people to not hate you if you suck. With all these elements in place, Bright Club seems to have the perfect chemistry for an evening of rapier-sharp wit and seemingly boundless knowledge. For those who have chosen the solitary profession of academic research, the pull to standup comedy may appear strange. Fiona Lethbridge, completing a PhD in the mating habits of beetles, believes stand-up keeps her

research fresh, I was getting to the end of my PhD and was feeling a bit disenchanted with it; I thought performing at Bright Club might help to make life more interesting. It did. Lethbridges set consists mainly of material about beetle sperm, including a song to the tune of Yellow Submarine, with the charming lyrics, We all live in a land of spunk and beans. Although her material goes down well with Bright Club audiences, shes not sure shes suited for a full-time comedy career. Im not sure Id make it as a comedian; the experience was great fun but theres only so much you can say about sperm With the success of TV shows like QI and The Big Bang Theory, geekery is fast becoming socially acceptable. As Sarah Artt explains The geeky role has been coming into the mainstream for a while now so all of those things that used to be marginal practices done by people in slogan t-shirts in their basements have become much more widely accessible.

In a male-dominated profession like stand-up, the Bright Club is even more remarkable in that it boasts a fair number of female performers. Artt is proud to be following in the footsteps of women she admires, like Margaret Cho, and believes

Stand-up and teaching have a lot in common, but at least in stand-up you get to swear
that women in the sciences are among the funniest she knows, A lot of it has to do with the fact that a lot of women in science who appear at Bright Club are young, vital researchers. They dont really have those stereotypes about the tweedy dignity of the professor so theyre completely ready to dispense with all that. The club is gathering momentum and increasing its audience all the time, with

performances at the National Museum of Scotland late night openings in February, to the Edinburgh Science Festival in April. Artt forecasts a return to the Festival in August; We do want to do a Fringe show but at the moment thats still in the ideas stage because weve had so many other shows and so many other offers that were still trying to do a new show every month. With so many shows coming up, Bright Club is on the hunt for academics, researchers and general clever trevors to help tickle Edinburghs funny bone, Its a balance between laughter and interesting facts that you didnt know. People are perfectly happy going along to Bright Club if its interesting, even if all the stuff doesnt leave you shaking with laughter so much that youre going to choke. It seems comedy is evolving. No longer dragging its knuckles along the ground, it stands upright, entertaining and informing. Bright Club showcases and celebrates geekery in all its glory reassuring audiences that its hip to be square.

For info on future Bright Club shows or if youd like to try a spot of clever stand-up yourself, visit www.brightclubedinburgh.blogspot.com

arts & culture

Auld Reekie gains new fans

Facebook page, Lost Edinburgh, notches up followers by showcasing the cities forgotten architectural treasures
WORDS SUZANNE NEILSON

Take a look around Lost Edinburgh on Facebook www.facebook.com/ lostedinburgh

The wid er pave ment a update nd the the sce busy ro ne out ads side Re gister H ouse.

AVID MCLEAN founded the Lost Edinburgh page with childhood friend, Mike Robertson, after a lifelong interest in the changing face of Scotlands capital. What really fascinated me were the changes that had taken place during the 20th Century, in living memory. It felt rather enlightening to see what the city had once looked like and I wanted to share what I had discovered with others who

perhaps had no knowledge of these changes. We didnt expect there to be too much fuss but we couldnt have been more wrong. The response was nothing short of a phenomenon and it made all the work that was put in prior to the launch overwhelmingly worthwhile. Lost Edinburgh proves that there are a lot of people out there who care about their citys history.
Tradition al makes way for th modern o e ultran Bristo S quare wit Universit h Edinburg ys new In h formatics building.

Allan Hailstone

David M

cLean

- Then ister House Outside Reg

Outsi

de Re gister

Hous

e - No w

ltural aces its multi-cu Edinburgh embr of the e opening identity with th e on Potterow. Mosqu

Stephen Hall

- Then Bristo Place

David McL

Bristo

ean

Place Now

David McL

ean

Stephen Hall

Then Potterow 20

Potterow

- Now

Summer 2012

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Grand Theft Auto III was released on mobile platforms last year.

DIGITAL DAWN
22 Summer 2012

The rise, fall and rise of Scotlands games industry

WORDS TOM FREEMAN PHOTGRAPHY SUNNY JOHNSON

ORGET THE BAY CITY ROLLERS, Sean Connery and Auld Lang Syne Scotlands most dominant cultural export is a video game. Those who dismiss the genre as the pastime of idle troglodytes, consider this: the controversial game Grand Theft Auto will likely top 150 million sales when the next instalment GTA V is released, due next year. Even Susan Boyle, with 18 million albums sold, couldnt dream that dream. Iconic film Trainspotting took $24 million from the box office worldwide, yet Grand Theft Auto IV made $500 million

within a week of release. This dwarfs what Braveheart made in its entire cinema release. It also has more genuine Scottish credentials it was made in Edinburgh. The Scottish video games industry is worth over 30 million annually to the Scottish economy and there is an increasing recognition of this importance, both in retaining talent and in maintaining its highly credible reputation internationally. Grand Theft Auto is a game in which the player embarks on a one-man crime wave. It was conceived in the 1990s by Dundeebased company DMA Design, under creative programmer Dave Jones. Freelancer Brian Baglow, who now runs the website scottishgames.net, was part of the original team. We had no idea what the hell we were up to, he admits, We were all 20-something guys, or thereabouts. It was tongue-in-cheek. We were having a laugh. Baglow joined DMA in 1995 as a writer, but quickly moved into PR after discovering that he was better at being fabulous in front of people, darling, than being locked in a small room being forced to code. He remembers how Grand Theft Auto courted controversy from the start, starting with a hidden bonus in which the player could mow down a line of Hare Krishna monks: One of the guys had created a little bit of code that made pedestrians follow each other. That was all that was. He thought what can we use this for? One of my friends used to wear a Gouranga be happy badge, and in Dunfermline where I grew up there was a little group of saffron clad gentlemen chanting their way down the high street. In Dunfermline too takes some guts. I thought theyre lucky this is pedestrianised The outrage over the games themes ensured Grand Theft Auto went on to considerable

success, and DMA design evolved into Rockstar North, an Edinburgh-based company who are now world renowned for their innovation. Rockstar went on to open development houses around the world: this summer their latest cinematic blockbuster Max Payne 3 (pictured) is expected to sell by the bucket-load. Recently however, the domestic games industry has been hit by global economics. Over the last two years it has shed almost 20% of its jobs in

A group of gentlemen in robes chanting their way down the street... that takes guts
Scotland, including the closure of Dave Jones new company Realtime Worlds in September 2010, which had nearly 200 staff. When I started in the industry there were five games companies in Scotland. Baglow tells us, They were all reasonably large, and theyre all gone. For such a rapidly evolving area of business, its really terribly conservative. Theyre sometimes actually pushed along by technology, kicking and screaming. Its really odd. Realtime Worlds suffered because they were working on a massive game using the old studio model. Over the last couple of decades if you wanted to create a video game you were more or less confined to high end dedicated devices. Very powerful hardware. You required investment and a relationship with a big publisher who will

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arts & culture

A CLUB NIGHT WITH A TWIST

WORDS JOSEPH BLYTHE ARTWORK JAMES LIGHTFOOT
Rockstars upcoming summer blockbuster Max Payne 3

stump up the cash up-front. This makes them riskaverse. One of the reasons BMG kept trying to kill Grand Theft Auto was it was a massive risk. It could have been a massive flop. If the publisher withheld money for whatever reason you could go to the wall. Its more or less what happened to a lot of the companies in Scotland. Despite this, Baglow doesnt subscribe to pessimists who lament the demise of the industry. Technology advances. Whats happened is in the last five or six years, weve started getting nondedicated devices hitting the market. You dont

There are massive reasons for optimisim because the future is consumer driven
need a console to play games. You just need a smartphone or a web browser, or a tablet, or even just [to] be a member of a social network. All of which have changed things for developers because now instead of having teams of forty people and up-front investment of several million dollars, two guys with a good idea and a bit of technological know-how can produce something, pump it out on the app store and sell 100,000 copies. The relationship with the consumer has been shortened massively. Weve now got close to sixty

companies making games up here. One of them, Denki, founded by three former DMA employees, is a perfect example of how Scottish talent has kept ahead of the curve, according to Baglow. Denkis BAFTA winning Quarrel was released on iPhone and iPad last year, and on Xbox live in January. Rockstar has also moved into the mobile market, re-releasing Grand Theft Auto III on the iPad last year. There are massive reasons for optimism, because the future is consumer driven, Baglow adds. Technology is becoming more widespread and available and its democratising, exposing more people than ever to games and gaming. The exciting thing Scotland has, and something no other country our size can boast, is so much potential. Weve got an existing industry thats already recognised as being a pioneer. Weve got four universities offering dedicated game design and development courses. Weve got the Dare to be Digital competition which has been running for twelve years, challenging students around the world to submit game concepts and make a prototype, and finally weve got recognition from the Scottish Government that this is a sector that has true value and massive potential. Last year industry body TIGA claimed that independence for Scotland would make a positive difference to the industry, a finding welcomed by the SNP. A cross-party Scottish Parliament group on the industry held its first meeting in March. Reasons for optimism then, as we switch on to a new era of gaming

OR GAMERS of a certain age the idea of playing retro classics in a club with their mates might seem too good to be true. But Dave Fade and Nicky Biscuit, the guys behind Nintendisco, have made it a reality. The nights are about bringing the experiences of gaming socially with your friends when you were younger to a more adult pub/ club environment, whilst also bringing big tunes and more vibes, says Dave, and its hard to deny that the premise sounds intriguing. Launched in Camden in 2010, Nintendisco offers people the chance to play classic games on a big screen, while at the same time enjoying a club night of dancing, drinking, and DJs. Dave and Nicky, two music industry veterans, came up with the idea behind the nights together. We wanted to combine our live music and promoting experience with our love for games, and make an event that everyone could enjoy. Sort of like gaming karaoke, or watching a football match on a big screen, but watching a

round of Mario Kart instead. So far its been a winning formula. Since their first night the Nintendisco team have put on a string of successful events around the country, garnering much praise and media attention. Their success resulted in them being asked by Nintendo themselves to help launch the 3DS console last year. For Dave and Nick, this was a step in the right direction. Working with Nintendo has been fun, it was great to be asked to host the launch of the 3DS and tour the summer music festivals and student freshers weeks with them. I ask if they can pinpoint what has made them so popular. I think the appeal lies in the social aspect of the events says Dave. Its actual social gaming: people in a room, sat down next to one another playing games! We get quite annoyed when we

hear the term social gaming thrown around to describe sitting alone playing a Call of Duty multiplayer with people all around the globe. We really cant see how that could be described as social. As for the future, Scotland is at least on their radar. Scotland is somewhere we would love to host something. Maybe well spend a few days up there and meet some like-minded people, see if we can get a regular event or show or something sorted. We can only hope it works out sooner rather than later. For more info check out: www.nintendisco.com

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My masters helped me get to where I am today in a job I love

FOOD & DRINK

ITS ALL ABOUT ITS all about THE BEER THE BEER
The against-all-odds story of a small Scottish company and its global success
WORDS BOYANA ATANASOVA

food & drink

Martin and James are on the top of the world in their first brewery. (Images courtesy of BrewDog)

T JUST OVER five years old, and already with a slew of awards to its name, BrewDog is undeniably a company on the up. Described as unique, attractive, innovative, and destined for glory, the small, Fraserburgh-based brewing company has quickly expanded into an ambitious project to revolutionise the British brewing scene. And its founders seem proud to wear the heavy crown of their achievements. BrewDog isnt just a beer brand; its a way of life, James Watt passionately explains. He is the self-described captain and co-founder of the company, and the person who has risked everything to work the job of his dreams. At first, the whole project seemed to be a mad investment. The financial crash in 2007 wasnt the most promising backdrop for the birth of a new business, but Watt and his friend Martin Dickie were confident. Martin and I both decided to try and brew our own beer from home when we were twenty-four, and, after getting in front of beer legend Michael Jackson, who told us to quit our jobs and open a brewery, we thought why not? We were bored of the industrially brewed lagers and stuffy ales that dominate the UK market. We decided the best way to fix this undesirable predicament was to brew our own beers. Back in the early days, James and Martin didnt have a clear idea of the size of their project. They had set some major goals, but the quick success of the project surprised even them. It soon became clear that they had chosen the right career path. Pinning down what made them so popular so fast is tricky. It might be the fact that, from the start, they have surrounded themselves with beer heads as passionate about the final product as themselves. Or perhaps its because they have spent a huge amount of time and energy developing the beer recipes of their dreams. You can also point to the strategy of opening their own branded bars, which has now seen them expand their presence across Scotland and beyond; or their innovative and subversive viral marketing campaigns, which have kept them close to their customers from buzzmag.org
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day one. Above all, it seems that the anti-establishment spirit at the heart of the company appeals to many people, tired of the big-name brands. As Watt puts it, Our branding is bright and bold and stands out against the dull, dreary, boring, oldfashioned, fusty, lame and generally uninspiring look of mainstream breweries. However, no matter how much you might like beer, you hardly ever understand the process behind its production. You cant really tell the difference between many mainstream brands, might have no idea how their strength is determined, and it is often hard to find someone to advise you based on your taste. BrewDog gave clear and clever answers to these kinds of questions, asked by the majority of beer drinkers. The numbers in their annual profit report show it was a smart decision. Another good idea was the close contact and collaboration with some experienced breweries:

BrewDogs co-founders celebrate their success at St Pauls, London.

We maintain strong relationships and friendships with a whole range of craft brewers from around the world, says Watt. We serve a broad selec-

tion of other breweries beers in our bars, and have collaborated with a number of them on some very exciting lines and products in the past. Were dedicated to

making cool, contemporary and progressive beers, showcasing some of the worlds classic beer styles. All with an innovative twist and customary BrewDog bite. In a way its overwhelming to interact with a man as energetic and ambitious as James. Still in his twenties, he and Mark have built an inspiring business model in a very short space of time. The process hasnt always been flawless; but James and Martin admit their mistakes and show confidence that they wont be slowed down. They are set to open at least three new bars across the UK during the coming months, and they have started work on a 7m project for a new brewery, funded by donations from their customers. It was a rip-roaring, targetsmashing, unprecedented success, says James of the scheme, which allowed thousands of people to become shareholders in Brewdog for a donation. We reached the 2.2million mark

well before the closing date. Our fans rock! Even if youre not the biggest beer fan, its difficult not to be swept up in James and Martins obvious passion for their dream. Their dedication and perseverance has brought a simple, but powerful, idea to international fame and recognition. Not only has it been a ground-breaking experience for the founders, but an incredible journey for their employees as well. When asked if any young people considering a similar project should pursue it as wholeheartedly as the Brewdog team have, their answer is simple: Do it. Now. Its this single minded focus in its founders that makes the Brewdog story such an interesting one. When they started five short years ago, their dream seemed improbable. For two young lads just out of uni, with little in the way of money and facing a global recession, the odds were stacked against them. But in a

You can fall in love with beer in BrewDogs bars.

true show of Scottish grit and determination, they have defied the odds to end up as one of the decades great success stories.

LOCAL INDIE BREWERIES

WEST Bar, restaurant and microbrewery WEST was opened in 2006 in Glasgow. It is the first UK brewery to produce all of its beers in accordance with the Reinheitsgebot, known as the German Purity Law. As a result their products are distinctively German in character, including the Lager St. Mungo, named after Glasgows patron saint. westbeer.com WILLIAMS BROTHERS Williams Brothers grew out of Heather Ale Ltd in 2004 when Scott joined brother Bruce and took over the Forth Brewery at Alloa. Fraoch, a heather ale brewed from a 4,000 year old recipe is popular in the USA, Canada, Germany and France. It is also their original hit. Their eighteen bottled varieties include other historical Scots beer recipes using seaweed and gooseberries. williamsbrosbrew.com BLACK ISLE BREWERY Nuzzled in the Highlands of Scotland, the Black Isle Brewery produces a host of award-winning ales. Founded in 1998, this fiercely independent brewery slogan save the planet, drink organic uses no pesticides in the production of their malt and hops. For a refreshing tipple, try the Goldeneye Pale Ale so light its practically a lager. Those after more of a punch, chose the thick and spicy Scotch Ale. Not for the timid! blackislebrewery.com

STEWART BREWERY Edinburghs only current independent brewery was founded in 2004, Steve Stewart started by drilling a hole in his kitchen wall to put a beer tap above the kitchen sink to beers he brewed in the coal cellar. The recipes he tinkered have developed into a fast growing business. Stewart now produces five permanent cask beers, six bottled beers and around twelve specials, he is currently in the process of moving to new premises to meet growing demand. stewartbrewing.co.uk

BORDERS BREWERY Game Bird took two weeks to become a bestseller at the Fox and Hound in Denholm. Its not a poultry dish, but the first ale from Borders Brewery, set up just last year by John Henderson in Ancrum. While young, the brewery has returned to the roots of Scottish brewing. Growing its own barley, using its own water and feeding the spent brewing grains back to its own cattle, the micro-brewery offers real ale brewed by traditional methods. To get a taste in Edinburgh, visit the Stockbridge Tap on Raeburn Place. scottishbordersbrewery.com

Left to right: Williams Brothers March of the Penguins; Stewarts Hollyrood; Black Isles Golden Pale Ale; and Wests St. Mungo. Borders Brewery does not currently bottle their beer.

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CHEAP EATS IN THE CITY

WORDS PAMELA PATERSON

THE MOSQUE KITCHEN 31 NICOLSON SQUARE A popular spot near Edinburgh University, the Mosque Kitchen combines a friendly atmosphere with reasonably priced curry. For 10 there is an all-you-can-eat option, with a range of dishes on offer; or for 5 you can enjoy a simple main course. The long tables and paper plates spark memories of school dining rooms and it is certainly not the place for a romantic date; but the food is so good, its certainly worth a visit. www.mosquekitchen.com 0131 667 4035. Open daily 11.30am 11.50pm

Feeling a bit peckish but short of cash? Luckily Edinburgh is full of eateries, both simple and adventurous, for those on a smaller budget
CHEZ JULES | 109 HANOVER STREET French cuisine is notoriously expensive and has a reputation for being more than a little pretentious, but Chez Jules on Hanover Street is neither of these. A cosy restaurant, right in the centre of town, it offers a relatively wide range of French foods, including the perennial frogs legs and snails, as well as steak, for under 10. Salad, bread, olives and cold meats welcome you on arrival, and just for a moment it feels as if youve been transported to Paris. This is a place with a fantastic atmosphere and delicious food to match. www.chezjulesbistro.com 0131 226 699 Open daily, Sunday to Thursday 12pm - 11pm, Friday and Saturday 12pm 12am

WANNABURGER | 7/8 QUEENSFERRY STREET Located in the West End, this American-style burger joint does exactly what it says, offering a range of quality burgers at surprisingly low prices. However, burgers are not all thats on the menu as Wannaburger also offers hot dogs and a range of breakfast dishes, including pancakes. All meals are priced under 10 and it is a delicious treat for any burger fan. www.wannaburger.co.uk 0131 220 0036 Open Monday to Friday 8am to 10pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am to 10pm

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S. LUCA | 16 MORNINGSIDE ROAD Creating mouth-watering ice cream is second nature to the owners of this small caf near Colinton Road. However, ice cream is not their only delicious secret. Upstairs visitors can find an array of light bites including sandwiches, soups, and a selection of delectable cakes. A popular place for families, this gelateria is not to be missed. www.s-luca.co.uk 0131 446 0233 Open daily 9am 10pm BONSAI BAR BISTRO | 46 WEST RICHMOND STREET Small, simple and Japanese. That is the most basic description of this restaurant, which is only a few minutes walk from the Royal Mile. A range of Japanese delights are on offer, both exotic and traditional, including vegetarian options for those who prefer to avoid raw fish. The prices are fairly competitive, with a set lunch costing around 5. The tables can be a little cramped, but the plum wine makes up for it. www.bonsaibarbistro.co.uk 0131 668 3847 Open daily 12pm - 3pm then 6pm - 11pm
Pictures: Roberto Tostes, Marina Avila, Sabine Fischer

If you want to learn how packing lunches can make you a famous blogger, dont miss our story on the 25-year old Vesselina and her lego-shaped lunch box. Visit our official website to see her buzz lunch,especially prepared for you: buzzmag.org.

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IN FOCUS

SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GO?

As swathes of new graduates join the crammed job market every year, should you sit tight in your first proper job, or join the big career ladder fight?

in focus

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS ALEXANDRA WINGATE

T SCHOOL the future looked a breeze: a BA (Hons) in Self Discovery at the University of Endless Parties; then saunter into a kick-ass job, work your way to the dizzying heights at the top of the company and laze away early retirement in a Tuscan villa. But life doesnt quite work like that - especially in the current economic mess where the inexperienced are taking the brunt of the unemployment, soaring debt, and unattainable mortgages. The job of your dreams seems like a myth from a bygone era. So what does the new career ladder look like in this uncharted territory? Caroline Burns, director of Edinburgh independent recruitment agency Time Recruitment, shares her insider knowledge. HOW LONGS TOO LONG? Careers advice before the economic crisis tended to suggest two or three years was long enough before you moved on to the next job. So should you be losing sleep if youre still sitting in your first job nearly five years later? The answer you may be relieved to hear is no. Caroline explains: I dont think the next employer will even think about it. The last thing theyre going to say is Why have you stayed here for four years? Theyll be

very pleased with that. If its too jumpy a year here, a few months here, a year there theres no consistency, theres no reliability. TELLING YOUR BOSS ITS TIME TO GO Telling your agony aunt of a manager that youve had enough and are preparing to ride off into the sunset can feel like kicking a puppy. With any owner-manager business, its like being part of the family, explains Caroline. Its quite a personal thing to suddenly say, you know what? I dont like what you give me every day, but they would probably respect your honesty. But in a large corporate environment your approach should be different; few people are likely to be in a position where they can pour their hearts open to their line manager. Sometimes you would be wise to keep your cards close to your chest, warns Caroline. Only you know the relationship you have with your employer, so go with your gut. You wont win any prizes for brutal honesty or masterful deception, but you also need to be careful not to burn your bridges. TAKING TIME OFF FOR AN INTERVIEW You can almost guarantee that the one day you pull a sickie is going to be the very

day you get caught. If you really cant tell your employer why you need a couple of hours off, its always better to use some of your annual leave. Youll have to think of something, explains Caroline. You need to prepare, you need to be organised. To get a job, you need to make space to actually have an interview. More often than not there will be a second interview and potentially a test. The worst thing you can do is spend hours brushing up your CV and finally getting invited to that all-important interview, only to realise you cant go. MONEY, MONEY, MONEY If a job ticks all the other boxes, will a side-step in salary be seen as a weakness by future employers? In the current market where salaries in most careers have not moved, many employees have had pay cuts and/or had their hours decreased, Caroline explains. If youre earning say, 23,000 per annum but with no benefits, and then you went to 21,000 per annum with benefits in a company that had more opportunity for that person, thats not going to be analysed.

While higher pay is increasingly becoming the key reason for people to move, Caroline warns: Youve got to be very careful looking elsewhere in the current market because sometimes youre better to stay with security. INTERVIEWS The rumours are true: the interview for your next job will be tougher than for your first. With an expectation of much more career-focussed input, gone are the glory days of sports achievements and Duke of Edinburgh Awards. The second time round theyre expecting more. suggests Caroline. In a move away from traditional tell me about yourself questions, the focus is increasingly shifting to competency based interviews with give me an example of a time... at their core. Its hard, says Caroline, and if the candidates dont know beforehand, theyve never interviewed in that style and they cant prepare. For case studies of people battling the Edinburgh job market, see buzzmag.org.

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in focus

DEFENCE

The shape of
The armed forces would be a Scottish defence force comprised of one air base (possibly at LOSSIEMOUTH), one naval base, and one mobile armed brigade. This is in line with what the UK Government is suggesting for the Scottish units as part of its defence review. This would total about 15,400 troops an armed force of an equivalent size to that of Kuwait

Independence
The biggest political battle since 1707 is on. We take a peek behind the slogans and imagine what an independent Scotland would look like
WORDS TOM FREEMAN AND GABRIEL NEIL Since the date of the referendum on Scottish Independence has been let out of the bag, the debate has centred on political points scoring, clashing personalities and party lines. In the great Salmond vs. Cameron contest, it seems an independent Scotland would either be a progressive utopia or a disastrous failure. But what might actually happen if the country votes yes?

Due to overwhelming public opinion, and SNP policy, an independent Scotland would surely be free of Trident. However, the lack of anywhere else to base the nuclear submarines means that the UK may try to buy some time in managing their withdrawal from Faslane.

CULTURE
Scottish art historian Murdo MacDonald claims that Scottish independence may open up the way for discussing British art and culture in a more meaningful way. He says, with independence, proper British studies will be possible for the first time, instead of English studies masquerading as British. Judging by the Irish model, Scottish culture could ibly be a more exportable asset than it is now, and it is likely that places such as INVERNESS and ABERDEEN would foster even greater individual cultural identities.

HEALTH
Scotlands reputation as the sick man of Europe would be hard to shake off even if a Scottish National Health Service is closer to its original model than in the rest of the UK. The SNPs continuing opposition to private investment and health already being devolved means that an independent NHS seems inevitable whatever the outcome of the referendum. In any case, independence is unlikely to dissuade Scots from continuing their poor health habits, particularly in GLASGOW, where life expectancy is the lowest in the British Isles.

POLITICS
Scotlands political landscape post-independence is likely to be dominated by the Scottish National Party in the EDINBURGH parliament, painting themselves as liberators. With their unifying policy of independence achieved, however, what would the SNP look like politically? Scots politics expert Professor David McCrone has shown that politics north of the border is characterised by a battle between centre-left parties, making Scotland likely to become a social democracy closer to the Scandinavian model. Theres every chance that there would be another referendum on a Scottish constitution soon after independence, like other former British dominions such as Australia and Ireland

BORDER CONTROL
Its an issue frequently brought up in debates, mainly by Unionists such as UK Europe minister David Lidington. In his view, there would probably be passport controls on the border with England, for example at JEDBURGH.

The UK opted out of the Schengen agreement that guaranteed free movement across borders in the EU in 1985. Scotlands likely membership of the EU would automatically opt them in to the agreement, to start with even if they applied to opt out at a later stage.

ECONOMY
The SNPs plan is that Scotland would continue to use Sterling in the short term, but there would be pressure to join the Euro, depending on how much of the UK debt it inherits. Which of Scotlands struggling banks would hold the nations coffers is anyones guess, but it is likely that since the nation holds 8% of the UK population, it would inherit 8% of its debt.

There has also been much speculation over how the ever-jittery markets would react to an independent Scotland, but its difficult to imagine a Scottish stock exchange anywhere else but EDINBURGH.

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When protest becomes a lifestyle

A glance into the life of occupants in two of Scotlands oldest protest settlements
WORDS SILVIA MONTES CAVANILLAS PICTURES HERMINIA BERNAL

in focus
by chaining themselves together, linking arms through concrete tubes, or even gluing themselves to the tarmac. These all represent attempts to impede the base from operating. As the UK government voted to renew the nuclear submarine system in 2007, the community had a permanent protest at the base every day of the year. Faslane 365 saw MSPs, reverends of the Iona community and Glasgow pensioners alike get arrested at the gates. Surprisingly though, over the years conviction rates have been very low. According to camp resident Clare: We are very passionate about the camp and the campaign so we try very hard to have a good public image. Its important to us that everybody who chooses to live here has a real concern with whats happening. We encourage all like minded people to get involved and come and stay at the camp if they wish. June marks the 30th anniversary of the camp, and the community is inviting groups from all around the world to take part in direct action. Another Scottish peace camp has its 10th birthday this year. Bilston Glen, a greenbelt site seven miles south of Edinburgh, is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). This protected ancient woodland houses the second longest active campaign in Scotland who are protesting against a Midlothian Council project to build a new road. The Bilston Glen community is similar to Faslane but protesters live in tree houses rather than in caravans. The settlement started as a small shelter under the local bridge, but today this site has a common area, a kitchen, a food store and more than ten tree houses. Campaigners confess the intention is to fortify the settlement as much as they can in order to make the eviction more difficult and expensive every time. The road project in Bilston has been temporarily stopped but the fight is still alive. The Faslane community tells us we will only leave the camp if the British government decides to decommission the base. The future for both camps is unpredictable, and with no end-date planned, their protests have now become a lifestyle. For many this would seem a great sacrifice, but for the people of Bilston and Faslane, its a source of great satisfaction. buzzmag.org
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EACEFUL SIT DOWN occupations as a form of protest have been on the increase in recent times. The wave of Occupy camps that swept the globe last September focused attention towards economic inequalities. Peace Camps are not a new phenomenon Faslane Camp in Scotland is the longest running example in the world. It was established in June 1982, when the UKs nuclear deterrent was upgraded at Faslane Naval base in Argyll and Bute. Margaret Thatcher had procured Trident from the United States to replace the existing system Polaris. All British nuclear weapons are now based on this part of the Clyde, and there are antinuclear campaigners camped alongside the naval base to this day. Despite being beside the A814 road, the settlement is well set-up. It has hot and cold water, a conventional toilet, a telephone, a large kitchen and living room, and 12 caravans that are the protestors homes. It has been a transient community. Hundreds of people from all around the world have been involved, encompassing a variety of backgrounds, genders and ages. The community describe themselves as an autonomous non-hierarchical group. As campaigner James says: There isnt any kind of leadership. We are a group of individuals with the same concerns, so all the decisions are made consensually. Equality and solidarity could be called our confines. The day-to-day life of these protestors can go from very simple to very demanding. James tells us. We mostly work on initiative, so if a job needs to be done then we do it. A lot of our days consist of doing activities which are important for survival such as collecting and chopping wood, or skipping. Skipping is when members of the community retrieve food waste from supermarket bins. Much of the stuff that they have on the site clothes, tools and many other things are also recycled in this way. However, the camps primary focus is the campaign. They run a weekly vigil every Wednesday outside the gates of the nuclear (Images courtesy of BrewDog) base. They have created a physical barrier

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Mind yourself
WORDS SUNNAH KHAN PHOTOGRAPHY GABRIELA SILVEIRA

Lets face it life can sometimes feel like an uphill struggle. We explore what it is like to face challenging times and what to do when you just dont know anymore
most common of these are depression and anxiety. Provision and support for mental health problems is widely available, yet acknowledging mental health problems is still taboo.

Y THE AGE of twenty-four, Linda had already battled reoccurring cancer twice and lost her only sibling to a long-term illness. Its strange. The first time I was thirteen and I didnt really think about it. I knew the C word was never a good thing to hear, but I was too young to let it bother me. Diagnosed with papillary cancer in her early teens, Linda has contended with more than youd expect for a young adult. The loss of her brother in 2005 left her shaken and unable to relate to her peers. Less than two years later, the cancer returned. At twent-four she struggled to put her traumas behind her, but repressing her feelings for so long finally caught up with her.

BREAKING POINT
Lindas turning point came after years of pretending to be okay. She became angry and overly sensitive as her confidence eroded. Pretending to be happy wasnt working. I went to see my doctor. It was the first time I said I dont know what to do instead of everything is fine. I just burst into tears. There was so much anxiety and emotion built up. Admitting she didnt know what to do was the first step. Through self-referral from her doctor, Linda chose to speak to COPE (Caring Over Peoples Emotions), a charity set up in Glasgow for those suffering from mental illness or distress. They helped her break things down and address what she felt she needed to do, showing her how to implement changes in her life. Although Linda had taken positive steps to deal with her depression, anxiety about the future lingered. When the cancer came back in 2011, she went through invasive surgery and the toughest round of radiation yet. After taking almost six months to recover, she went back to COPE. They provided a non-judgmental space but also practical skills to improve her quality of life. The first time I went to COPE it was about coming to terms with all the trauma. But this time helped me realise that those things dont define me. It was such a relief because you stop basing your life and personality on the things that have happened to you. You stop judging yourself and expecting other people to judge you. People relate to me for who I am, not what Ive been through.

FINDING HELP
Finding help is simple. Edspace, an Edinburghbased website run by the NHS, provides information on local mental health services. These include stress control classes, phone helplines, and face-to-face centres. The charity Health in Mind, offers a range of services. We provide information to people about mental health and on the help they can access. We run free information afternoons on subjects such as stress control, relaxation techniques and mindfulness which are free to the general public. The Mental Health (Care and Treatment) (Scotland) Act, 2003 created a new legislative framework for mental health care in Scotland. It emphasises recovery by supporting people to be active in managing their own healthcare, and to carry out everyday activities even with on-going symptoms. People can manage to live well even if they have mental health problems, and can find the best ways of improving their wellbeing. One way of dealing with problems can be to focus on things people can do themselves to stay well. Linda has started a new job and is looking forward to the future. Without the support of services such as COPE, she says, she would not be feeling as positive. I would never have applied for the job I have now if it hadnt been for them. If I had any advice for someone with mental health issues, I would say speak to someone, look on a website, pick up the phone, go to your doctor there are so many options out there. Take that first step. Society in general needs to get to grips with the fact that its okay to be sad and its okay to be happy. Both emotions need to be equally respected so that people dont try and pretend theyre okay when theyre not. I really think thats the worst thing you can do.

LEARNING TO PRETEND
When Linda was diagnosed with reoccurring thyroid cancer in 1999 she felt unsure of how to cope. I pretended I was okay to my friends and family. I felt like I had to be strong for them. It was only when I was alone that it would become hard to pretend to myself. I would slip into low moods, feel awful, and wonder why this happened to me. Pretending to be fine can aggravate feelings of detachment and isolation, and exacerbate symptoms of depression. Stigma is attached not only to asking for help, but also to letting others know youre not okay. I had this great support network of family and friends and I was so grateful for them. They all rallied together and were there for me, but I still felt alone. I didnt want to go on about how I was feeling. Everyone just wanted me to be better. Lindas circumstances may be exceptional, but her experience is not. In Scotland up to 850,000 people suffer from mental health problems at any one time. The

For more on mental health, check out Natalia Rodrguez Domnguezs piece on using meditation to beat stress at www.buzzmag.org.

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in focus
Coffee The Good: Once tut-tutted as a demon drink, over the past few years psychologists have found a cup o joe helps memory and cognition, whilst Harvard health boffins believe 4-6 cups a day reduces the risk of type II diabetes. The Bad: Coffee may cause calcium loss, so can be linked to osteoporosis. Taking it with milk tackles that one. The coffee industry is also renowned for exploiting its workers (pickers earn as little as 4 cents per pound of coffee picked). Make sure your java is fair trade. The Weird: Originally, coffee was consumed as a food, not a drink. Early Ethiopian tribes mixed the unhulled bean into animal fat, making an energy-ball designed to invigorate and sustain when hunting a sort of prehistoric proto-power-bar.

FOOD FACTS: The Good,

The Bad and The Weird
WORDS KATRINA CONAGLEN PHOTOGRAPHS NATALIA RODRGUEZ DOMNGUEZ Photographs - Natalia Rodrguez Domnguez Smoothies The Good: As well as blending together fruits, smoothies can also contain other healthy ingredients like milk, eggs and coconut oil. These provide the essential fats you need to absorb nutrients. The Bad: Proper smoothies not made from concentrate will hit your wallet hard. An Innocent smoothie, for example, costs 35p per 100mls, compared to 12p per 100mls for most store-brand fruit juice. The Weird: The crazy smoothie fad has seen websites spring up dedicated to bizarre combinations like broccoli and cucumber, lemon basil, hemp protein with tea, and cilantro and coconut. Muesli The Good: Created in the 1890s, muesli was designed Water specifically for ailing patients to eat as a light evening The Good: Though the conventional meal. Crammed full of fibre, its health benefits are well wisdom that its best to down eight glasses documented, but whats less touted is research suggesting of water a day has no scientific basis, it increases the libido, making muesli the sexy way to start theres no doubt water is essential to the day. physical well-being. The Bad: While the original recipe for muesli combined The Bad: The bottled water industry fruits, nuts, and oats to naturally-sweet, virtuous effect, is responsible for 1.5 million tonnes of beware of its evil cousin: toasted muesli. Tarted up with plastic waste each year. Estimates show refined sugars, its more appropriate for pudding than over 80% of that plastic hits the landfills breakfast. and is not recycled. With no nutritional The Weird: Muesli can often inadvertently contain moth advantages to bottled water over tap, and beetle larvae. If you throw a handful ditch the Evian and stick to the faucet. of dates into your morning bowl be The Weird: Scientists have found aware that 20% of imported dates evidence of liquid water beneath the contain small caterpillars. Dont icy surface of Jupiters moon Europa. despair though insects are The presence of water could represent a a fine source of protein, so potential habitat for life, so sci-fi fans are youre still fuelling your body. abuzz with speculation.
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SPORT

ON THE EDGE
Hung up on whether to try climbing? An experienced rock climber shows us the ropes
WORDS SONJA KLEIN PHOTOGRAPHS JANA EICHEL

OU FEEL PAIN in your arms, and know you cant hold on any longer. Although the wind is cool, your hands are sweaty, and slowly your fingers slide off the grip. The moment before you fall you know its coming. Its the moment you fear the most. The rope tightens when you drop into it. Youre safe. It is this spirit of freedom and adventure, the gruelling physical challenge and the chance to overcome fears that make people take up climbing. You must believe in your own ability, simultaneously trusting your partner with your life. This adrenaline rush, a natural high, is what attracts growing numbers of people to climbing. The British Mountaineering Club has seen an increase in membership by 280% over the last twenty years. More than two thirds of these participants are reported to climb both indoors and out. What used to be seen exclusively as a sport for the supremely fit has now become popular among all sorts. Ian Archibald, an experienced hobby climber from Edinburgh, tells Buzz, everyone can take up climbing, it doesnt matter how fit you are. I got into climbing through a friend who took me with her after I climbed her balcony in the middle of the night to get a pack of cigarettes out of her room for her. Ian climbs both with the Edinburgh University Mountaineering Club and privately with people hes met through climbing. He recommends that those interested in climbing go with someone

experienced, and begin at an indoor climbing centre, moving outside as they develop skill. Indoor climbing has the advantage that it allows you to train in techniques, feel safe with the rope and learn your limits. The advantage of outdoor climbing is youre not restricted to one colour but can use everything you can find to hold onto, he explains, referring to indoor climbing walls colour-coded routes that allow climbers to learn different techniques. You dont need to have much equipment in order to start climbing; just comfortable sports clothing, a water bottle and some food. Indoor climbing centres provide shoes and a

harness. Most centres also offer introductory courses that teach the basics of safe and efficient climbing. So, within a short period of time, you too can be out there conquering mountaintops.

INTERESTED?
Learn More Here: Edinburgh International Climbing Arena Ratho, South Platt Hill, Newbridge EH28 8AA. www.eica-ratho.com 0131 333 6333 Mountaineering Club of Scotland www.mcofs.org.uk

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sport
When youre training, you need to be efficient. You cant have any distractions. So I get it out of the way before training begins. Lees been this focussed for a long time. At thirteen, she knew she wanted to be an athlete; at twenty-three she went pro. It must have involved some difficult sacrifices. Ive never thought of it as a sacrifice, she says. Sometimes people in the pub will say Im weird if Im sitting there with a soft drink. But I think theyre weird! I love racing. I cant imagine the feeling, I say, thinking of the weekend struggle to pull my tattered running shoes on. Its maybe something like public speaking. The thought terrifies you, but you prepare, you work hard, and in the end Would she consider running longer distances? No. I love the 400m. So when I get older Ill give up competitive racing. The adrenaline isnt addictive? I suppose Ill miss the rush of competing. But Ill play volleyball and netball. Ill just be like everybody else, trying to keep fit. But Ill channel my competitive energy into my career. Id like to get into media, but there are so many great people already doing it. Lee speaks at high schools as part of the Champions in Schools programme, and sits on the Legacy Board for Glasgows 2014 commonwealth games. Its about making the most of the games, for the city for Scotland. Were looking at different aspects of how Glasgow can benefit from the games transport, for example. But mainly how we can get more kids into sport and healthy living. 2014 is going to be exciting. There are a lot of young female athletes who are doing really well. Id say Eilidh Child is one to watch. The future of Scottish athletics is looking good. One of the venues for 2014 is Hampden Park, just round the corner from where I grew up in Kings Park. It will be a proper home crowd! Between weddings, committees, and training for the ultimate test of sporting endeavour, Lee has piled a lot onto her plate. And at the finish line, its worth it.

Scottish runner Lee McConnell (left) is currently training for the Olympic trials in June. This could be her third Olympic competition.

THE OLYMPIAN
WORDS KATE THOMSON PHOTOGRAPH PAUL KELLY

I
46

waIted for the call. After

two weeks of bargaining I had secured twenty minutes on the phone with Lee McConnell. My disappointment at not being able to meet in person soon gave way to awe. The athlete has won bronze and silver at the Commonwealth Games in Melbourne and Manchester. In her twelve year long career shes competed at the Olympics twice. But Lee isnt ready to relax. This is a

busy lady. Were talking multitasking on a higher level than driving coupled with hands-free chatting about the Olympics, wedding bells and careers. Ive been training. For the Olympic trials. Theyre on the 24th of June. Lee is working hard to ensure she is one of the 900 athletes representing Britain. Is she optimistic? The 400m is a very strong event. So yes, Im confident.

Shes right to be self-assured. In the past, her elegant gait has carried her over high jumps and hurdles, but it serves her best on the flat 400metres and has made her the most medalled athlete in Scottish history. How does that feel? I dont really think about it! she pauses as if considering her sporting prowess for the first time. I just love competing against other athletes, running in front of a crowd.

Which big race was the most memorable? The race that stands out as my favourite is probably the Commonwealth Games. It was my first silver medal. And it was in Manchester a home crowd. So Im really excited for the Olympics. Its the biggest event in sports, and for it to be here in Britain is great! The Olympics isnt the only item on this years to-do list; shes getting married in November. Surely planning a wedding while youre training is hectic? Actually its all pretty much done. Shes not kidding last week, she tweeted, wedding rings bought, bridesmaid dresses ordered, event dcor booked and mens jackets picked.

training, I set myself goals, and when you achieve them, it makes you more confident

When Im

you have an amazing sense of achievement. I wonder if shes always had such a can-do approach. Everybody lacks a bit of confidence at times, but the more you compete, the more confident you become. When Im training, I set myself goals, and when you achieve them, it makes you more confident.

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RACE RTAN SPA

Leap of Faith
WORDS ALAGAPPAN MUTHU

LeveL one: Spartan Sprint

3.3 miles and 25 obstacles 99.9% complete it

sport

LeveL two: Super Spartan

7.4 miles and 30 obstacles 75% complete it

LeveL three: Spartan BeaSt

12 miles and 50 obstacles 35% complete it

This summer, thousands of Scots will join Gerard Butler in ticking the box: Have you ever been a Spartan warrior?

Jumping over fire, crawling under barbed wire, splashing through ice-cold water, throwing spears and battling gladiators

LeveL four: Spartan Death race

40 miles and over 70 hours of sheer brutality 10% complete it

N 26th AUGUST, Dalmeny House in South Queensferry will host Scotlands first ever Spartan Race. A fitting moniker indeed, this off-road, cross country mud run/obstacle course could be the nearest recreation the ideals Sparta was built on: fighting the odds through strength of body and will of mind. The Spartan Race is split into four levels Spartan Sprint, Super Spartan, Spartan Beast and the Spartan Death Race and each one makes the previous look like childs play. Case in point: The Sprint is a meagre 3.3 mile obstacle course whilst the Death Race is a forty mile survival test. And yet the Edinburgh sprint already boasts over 2000 participants looking forward to jumping over fire, crawling under barbed wire, splashing through ice-cold water, throwing spears and battling gladiators! exclaims Daniel Scott, Race Director. Having worked really hard to get myself fit over the last two years, Ive been looking for ways to test myself and the Spartan Race seemed perfect, said Phil Allen, a student of music at Edinburgh Napier University. But this race is a lot more than just a mad dash. The day is geared around being a Spartan. With a pre-race battle speech, cavalry charges and trophies, we offer an all-round

Spartan experience that everyone from gymgoing mothers to ex-Olympic athletes can take part in. announced Scott. Donna Kennedy, a thirty-nine year old veteran of endurance challenges ranging from triathlons to 10k runs emphatically claimed that, Spartan is king! You have no idea what is in front of you, so there is no time to think or worry about it, you arrive at an obstacle and just get on with it, she added. Her seven year old daughter is already desperate to follow in her mothers footsteps. Why on earth would a seven year old want to be a Spartan? One of Donnas best mates, Denise Eadsforth, another Aberdeen local and mother of

three offered the answer. When you are there and participating you can feel the energy and vibe. Everyone is so friendly and you almost feel part of a special exclusive club for complete nutters! Both women were so captured by the excitement that they decided to become ambassadors for the Spartan Race. However, charging through muddy plains and tackling unknown dangers does require its share of training. You need cardiovascular stamina, strength and not to be scared of mud! is the advice from Nichola Stevenson, a spinning and body conditioning instructor from Insch, Aberdeenshire and the other nutter in Donna and Denises crew. The need for training is made all the more pertinent considering the race attracts a large number of rookies. The same fact makes safety a prime concern for the organisers. Officials are placed at all the obstacle sites to ensure participants are not putting themselves in danger. In fact, less than 2% of our competitors get more than a scratch, assured Scott. So it is mostly safe. Its completely different. But possibly the best thing about the Spartan Race is that it gives a mad old story to tell.

Entry: 40 12 pm until: August 19th, Registration open r) e race gets close (fee increases as th ce.com www.spartanra
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Photographs: Spartan 48 Summer 2012 Race

TRAVEL

travel

W
EURO TRIP
a petrol-heads alternative to backpacking
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS PETE SWIFT

ANT TO take that European backpacking trip you always talked of as a student but never got round to? If the prospect of lugging a rucksack for 6,000 miles is a little off-putting theres an easier solution, one that doesnt require sleeping rough, packing light or prolonged backache. The answers simple: take a car. And before you mention the environment, a road trip is statistically better for the polar bears than flying. A pan-European automobile adventure is exactly what I undertook with my brother and three friends last summer. Setting off from Stirling in a Nissan 350Z, a Honda CRX convertible, a Nissan s13 and a Toyota Glanza, we drove south and took the Eurotunnel to France, the most convenient way to hop the channel. You can pre-book a spot on a specific train, but if you turn up early and theres room on a previous crossing then theyll accommodate you where possible. Within half an hour of the train departing, youll be driving down the off-ramp into the French sunshine. Cruising through the picturesque villages of northern France, we bore east through Belgium and down to Germany, where one of the most famous race tracks on the planet awaited our arrival. The sheer scale of the Nrburgring is incredible; every car manufacturer worth their badge has a test factory here, all tightly clustered around the central HQ complex. The 13-mile track was being used for a race day, so we booked a slot on the GP circuit. The session is an absolute free for all, and we were lined up against everything from Porsche GTs to Peugeot 307s. The mixed bag of cars and drivers made for an interesting experience, plus theres no mandatory insurance; so a youbreak-it, you-buy-it policy is in operation. This makes avoiding contact with the other

racers essential. The adrenaline rush is intense; until youve slid through a chicane at 130mph while praying for traction youll have to take my word for it. Even non die-hard petrol-heads will love the thrill. From Nrburg we travelled south to Switzerland, passing through the Alps. Evianfilled mountain lakes glisten, and snow-capped mountain peaks tower over lush green valleys and rolling streams. Tight winding roads snake through the hills, connecting small towns, ski resorts and mountain lodges. Waterfalls drop at a thunderous speed, drenching anyone who dares venture near them. Crossing the border into Italy, we were given a friendly warning about the local drivers. We soon saw why: in the following days we had more close calls than I could count. Trucks pose a continual danger, changing lanes without indicating and with the expectation that anything smaller will take evasive action. Vespa riders are the worst, weaving through the traffic without a care before disappearing into gaps so tight it makes you cringe. On our trip we were gifted the opportunity of seeing the national anti-insurance policy in action. At a set of traffic lights, the guy in the lane beside us neglected to use his breaks and smashed right into the vehicle in front. The driver emerged shaking his head, stormed up to the car behind, leaned in the window and smacked the guy full in the face. Continuing south, Venice was our next port of call. Despite the familiarity of a place that has been the setting for countless films, approaching the city by the ferry was still a rather special experience. The epic scale of the architecture, the statues, marbles and spires especially around St Michaels square and the canals that dissect the streets give the city a quaint, distinctive charm. In contrast our next stop, another famous racetrack, was a surreal experience. You cant hide money, or so the saying goes, but in Monte Carlo wealth is worn like a badge. Within two minutes of entering the city, wed seen three Ferraris and a Lamborghini. But the super-cars were nothing compared to what was lined up at the harbour. Some

of the boats were worth more than the average shopping centre, and had their own 24-hour security team. Dont plan to have a quiet time in Monte Carlo; the waterfront bars are just too inviting to resist! The sun was blazing when we pulled into Barcelona the next day, so we parked and went for a walk through the city. Theres a real sense of vibrancy and a pleasant buzz on the streets. The Camp Nou, home to Barcelona FC, is well worth a visit. Housing one of the most successful football clubs on the planet means that the stadium is a huge 100,000-seat coliseum with stands rising 160ft into the Catalan sky. The top rows are affectionately named the nosebleed section because of the altitude. From Barcelona we headed north, returning to France. After two weeks of sunshine, a dull hue and light rain greeted us as we approached. The lasting impression of the city isnt the ancient landmarks like the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe, but the modernity of the financial district. The office blocks look like something out of a sci-fi film next to the statues, sculptures and modern art lining the route to the city centre. We drove from Paris right through to Stirling, making it home in time for tea, all without the hassle of airports or ferries or any form of public transport. Driving 6,000 miles in 16 days isnt everyones idea of a holiday, and at nearly 2,000 just for fuel, it certainly wasnt a cheap alternative to flying. Sharing a car would work out considerably cheaper. As for fuel efficiency, the 350Z and Glanza TD4 probably only get 20mpg, but there are cars capable of four times that. In short, planes and trains are fine for hopping between cities, but the freedom of a road trip is priceless.

Nissan 350Z

Monte Carlo

travel

Skyes the limit

Rediscover your own country on a three-day bus tour to Skye
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS ROSIE HOWIE

Some of the locals

Tour nightlife

The Quirang, Isle of Skye

we set off, with hopes of a clear afternoon. At 10am we stopped at Eilean Donan Castle, before continuing over the bridge to the wonderful Isle of Skye. The island is mesmerising; tales of the wee folk, who live in the bogs of Skye, chimed with the feel of the place. Its clear to see why its such a popular location for filming (Stardust and The Wicker Man were shot here). Despite the rain that relentlessly soaked us to the core, everyone agreed that the Cuillins were the best views wed ever seen. As we drove back to Morags, the sun finally broke through the clouds, casting a new light on the landscape and ending a wonderful day. Day 3, and the first stop was a quick walk to the spectacular Invermoriston falls, where J.M. Barrie was inspired to write the Peter Pan novels. For the rest of the morning, we drove along the edge of Loch Ness, and stopped at

Culloden after noon. I always enjoyed history at school and have a little (albeit scattered) knowledge of the Jacobite rebellion. But standing in the field, and hearing the story of the last battle to take place on British soil, was a deeply moving experience. As we headed back to Edinburgh, I reflected on my weekend. Like any Scot, Im proud of my country Scotland truly is one of the most stunning places on earth. However, participating in this guided tour deepened my love and knowledge of my home. I learnt so much on this trip and Ill certainly bore my friends for many months with Scottish facts, stories, and terrible jokes. At 115 (or 109 with a student card), its not the cheapest way to travel; but letting loose and being a tourist in your own back garden guarantees that youll experience your home country in a whole new way.

TS 8:30AM and theres frost on the cobbles of the Royal Mile. Im sitting in the Haggis Adventures office awaiting the departure of my three-day Skye High guided tour of the Highlands. Already the questions are flying between the passengers: Where are you from? Where have you been? How long are you travelling for? My answer confuses them Youre from Scotland?! Yes, I explain defiantly, Ive travelled all the way from Newington to have a three-day weekend in my

own country. We begin our journey, and instantly I start seeing things from a new perspective. As we drive up to the Wallace Monument in Stirling, were regaled with witty stories about Scotlands history, many of which I must have slept through at school. The first day flies by in a haze of beautiful scenery. Its clear as far as the eye can see, and its amazing to hear people from all over the world gasp at the beauty of my country. We stop at Glencoe Ski Centre for lunch where we take

the chairlift, for a stunning view across the snow-covered glen. Further up the road, we hear the brutal story of the Glencoe Massacre, before a more lighthearted trip to the Ben Nevis Distillery. At 5:30pm we pull up to the hostel, Morags Lodge in Fort Augustus, which is to be our home for the next two nights. The rooms are film-themed, and whilst I was a bit concerned when I checked in to Trainspotting, the room itself was clean and cosy. After dinner,

we headed into town for the Clansman show, a demonstration of traditional Highland kilt and weapons. The performer, Ken, had a distinct Liverpool accent, but an endless knowledge of the Highlands. He dressed two of our group up, rather fetchingly, in traditional dress, before giving us a rather gruesome demonstration I loved it! On the second day, we head to Skye. Our glorious weather had vanished over night, but our guide Chris was full of life as

3-day bus tour to skye for 2 people worth 230*

WIN!

If you liked Rosies adventure and would like to live it yourself, for your chance to win go to: www.buzzmag.org/win
Closing date: 30/05/2012 *does not inc. accommodation

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Want to see
Travelling doesnt have to cost the earth not if youre prepared to put in a little hard work and teach your way across the world
WORDS MARK MCKINLAY http://www.teflscotland.co.uk/

the world?
position, teaching English abroad is not solely the realm of former professionals. Matt Whale, another twenty-three year old Scot who had previously only taught Thai Boxing, fell into the job in Ecuador. After travelling and partying for three months, I had fairly rinsed my bank account. Obviously there werent a lot of jobs I could do in a foreign country when I didnt speak the native language.

HETHER ITS Buenos das seor, Bonjour monsieur or simply Good morning Sir, most school days start the same

way. Increasingly, young Scots are regaining their ancestors pioneering spirit and setting off to discover this for themselves, by teaching English across the globe. From Guatemala to Guangzhou, Mombasa to Mumbai there is no region untouched by the English language. While Scots in the past scoured the globe for wealth and power, they now bring an empire of learning; spreading knowledge as the developing world seeks to catch up with the stagnant West. One such adventurer is Paul Galbraith, a twenty-three year old from Edinburgh who worked as a geography teacher prior to moving to Suwon in South Korea. His motivations were simple, I wanted to travel, I wanted to see part of the world that was different from home, and teaching was the best way to do that. Koreas government has been running a programme to recruit foreign English teachers for over 15 years, andattracted almost 7,000 instructors last year alone. For Paul, the opportunity was clear. There are not many jobs for teachers in Scotland at the moment. I felt if I was going to end up in some wee village, on an island or worse, then I may as well just go overseas. I wanted to live where the food and culture would be really different from Scotlands. The more I looked into Korea, the more I could see myself living there. Whilst Pauls experience helped him secure a

South America this year, Thailand the next, Ill get to see them all eventually
Luckily language schools are often very happy to take on native English speakers as it raises their profile. Unlike Paul, who teaches at a secondary school, Matt found himself being sent into offices to help improve employees English. It was a bit daunting at first walking into the head office of a global company and teaching their HR manager conversational English, but you get to meet some amazing people who have had hugely successful careers. And after dipping his toe into the water, Matt is keen to continue using teaching as a way of seeing the world. South America this year, Thailand the next. Ill get to see them all eventually. I plan to work in any job I can get to do the CELTA course and apply for more jobs. Courses such as the Certificate in English Language Teaching to Adults act as a gateway for interested individuals, providing them with skills to augment their lack of teaching experience. Scott Lawrie, a twenty-five yearold Fifer who attended such a course, took advantage of this option after his degree. After a one-day training

course, he found himself at a school in Cambodia. Its such a young country compared to Scotland. Most of the kids really wanted to learn, unlike here. Education is a privilege. Its a country in transition. Whilst theres huge amounts of poverty, many people have satellite TV and have developed a strange version of American culture. Whilst I was there I had to judge a talent show. None of them have ever been to the US but they presented a really skewed version of what they obviously thought it was like. Scott has fond memories of spending Christmas Day in Cambodia, where temperatures reached heights that would turn most Scots a special shade of crimson. Christmas isnt a holiday in Cambodia, but the ex-pats took the day off and met at the local bar. We managed to get hold of some potatoes and had a full roast. Great times and great laughs. Paul echoes these sentiments. It all feels quite normal now. I suppose thats because I have a good group of friends here so Im always doing something when Im free. Matt believes there is much to be learned from foreign cultures. Some of its good and some of its bad, but its definitely not Scotland. It can be frustrating: the hot water broke in our flat at Christmas and its only just been fixed. On the other hand, the parties, dancing and laid back lifestyle are immense. A lot of it I would take back home if I could. Its not all highs, but teaching English abroad gives young Scots the chance to work and see the world. And whilst the money you earn wont last forever, the memories definitely will.

Scott Lawrie in Cambodia

Photographs: Scott Lawrie, Manjt Suchdev

SCOTLAND
The surprising home of wizards, spies and King Arthur
WORDS PAMELA PATERSON

Lights, camera, action three little words that send your mind westwards to Hollywood, home of A-list celebrities, stunt doubles and action scenes. However, not every blockbuster was filmed in LA. Many have filmed their Oscar-winning scenes here

COTLAND IS a veritable feast for moviemakers, as its open, rugged scenery creates a colourful, mystical palette perfect for creating that next silver screen classic. While there are many films with an obvious Scottish connection (Braveheart), there are several others that might surprise the cinema-going public. Buzz presents a list of surprise movies locations that you can visit to see where the magic happened, and re-create some of Hollywoods greatest scenes.

follow in the footsteps of Harry, Ron and Hermione. The Jacobite runs from May 14th to October 26th daily.

Chariots of Fire (1981)

A film perhaps more famous for its theme music than for the story itself, Chariots of Fires iconic opening and closing scenes were filmed in St Andrews on the West Sands beach. The film chronicles the story of two British athletes aiming to compete at the 1942 Olympics. Particularly famous for its golf and royal ties, St. Andrews real claim to fame should be its beautiful beaches. While the town boasts three stretches of sand with West Sands as the largest, and most popular amongst locals and tourists alike, regardless of weather and season. The town is best reached by car, although there are several buses from major towns as well as trains which stop at Leuchars, which is a mere ten minute bus journey from St Andrews.

Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets (2002)

As the Hogwarts Express traverses north through the British countryside, making its journey from London to the mysterious Hogwarts school of Witchcraft and Wizardry, it passes through the Scottish Highlands. One of the most stunning locations was the Glenfinnan viaduct near Fort William. The town of Glenfinnan can be reached in approximately four hours by train from Glasgow and forty minutes from Fort William. Several walks are available in the area, which take in the views of the viaduct and nearby Loch Shiel, located just off the A830. During the summer months a steam engine chugs its way along the West Highland line from Fort William, allowing visitors to

Stardust (2007)
Several scenes in this incredibly romantic film, in which a young man promises to give his beloved a star, were filmed on the Isle of Skye. The picturesque scenery of this, the largest island of the Inner

Glenfinnan Viaduct Neil Marshall, Transport Trust

Tigh Beg Colin Mossman

travel
the Five Sisters of Kintail. The castle is best reached by car, just off the A87 from the east, or by guided bus tour. It is well placed for visits to the Isle of Skye and in nearby Plockton there are daily boat trips to see the local seals and other wildlife. The castle is open every day from March to October and admission costs 6 for adults. tors can stay in the newly furnished croft and enjoy its coastal views across the Firth of Lorn.

Kuch Kuch Hota Hai (1998)

Hollywood isnt the only movie mecca that has brought its casts and crews to Scotland. Bollywood has followed suit. Kuch Kuch Hota Hai, a film about a love triangle between friends, filmed its all dancing and singing opening sequence in a variety of Scottish locations, including Castle Tantallon in North Berwick. The castle, which sits forebodingly on a cliff overlooking the Firth of Forth, is just east of the borders town, on the way to Dunbar. Once owned by one of Scotlands most powerful barons, there is no denying its stunningly imposing charm. The castle is open daily and admission is 5 for adults.

Enigma (2001)
This World War II thriller starring Dougray Scott and Kate Winslet revolves around the cracking of the famous Enigma code. Tigh Beg Croft in Argyll acts as the backdrop for some of this films scenes. The croft is nestled next to the coast and is within a 6 mile drive from Oban, with the isles of Mull and Iona just a ferry ride away. Visi-

Hebrides, provides the backdrop for the magical land of Faerie. Locations used in the film include The Quiraing, an ancient landslip, and Loch Coruisk in the south of the island, deep in the Cuillin mountains. There are several ways to reach Skye, but the most visually stunning is the Road to the Isles from Fort William to Mallaig, where you board a ferry and sail over the sea to Skye. Once on the island, there are a range of walking tours and buses providing easy transportation. Minibus trips around the island are also available, allowing you to take in all the major sights.

Stirlingshire Monty Python sites, as they are all in a similar area. Arnhall castle, where a famous historian is decapitated, is near Bridge of Allan, while Sheriffmuir, site of the films final battle, is just east of Dunblane. For major film buffs it is even possible to find the cave where King Arthur encountered the Killer Rabbit of Caerbannog just outside Killin, at Tormnadashan mine. However, it is so hard to find that Michael Palin and Terry Jones both failed to locate it while doing an interview for the films DVD release.

i n g Ou t in 20 nch ra
A year of rsts

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The World is Not Enough (1999) Monty Python and the Holy Grail (1974)
Fetchez la Vache! Fans of surrealist comedy icons Monty Python shouldnt miss Doune Castle, where the group filmed much of King Arthurs quest for the Holy Grail. This medieval stronghold in Stirlingshire played the part of the interior and exterior of Camelot, Swamp Castle and Castle Anthrax in the film. The castle is located off the A9 and can be visited throughout the year. It is possible to do a driving tour of several Eilean Donan Castle, Scotlands most photographed castle, has appeared in several films, but not always as a castle. In Pierce Brosnans third appearance as superspy James Bond, Eilean Donan is the location for MI6s headquarters. The castle, which is often named Scotlands most beautiful, is located on a small island in Glen Shiel. The surrounding area is simply spectacular, with views from the castle reaching the Cuillins of Skye, and several nearby lochs as well as the Munros known as

Play for Children

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FASHION

fashion

CAPITAL
Strut with style into Spring/Summer 2012 in all the hottest trends from Scotlands fashionable capital
WORDS AND STYLING JILL GEOGHEGAN ASSISTANT STYLIST GEMMA MCCALLAN PHOTOGRAPHS BUZZ MAGAZINE

FASHION

Nicole Blouse, 10, Godiva Shorts, 110, Godiva Headpiece, Karen Reid, price on demand Cape, stylists own Necklace, stylists own

Brent Shirt, 14.50 Trousers, 15 Jacket, 49 Scarf, 14, all The Frayed Hem

Gavrielle Dress, 95, Those Were the Days Necklace, stylists own

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fashion

Brent Long sleeved T-shirt, 21, Godiva Jacket, 75, Those Were the Days Jeans, models own Boots, models own

Nicole Dress, 95, Lady JoJos Handbag, 9, The Frayed Hem Sunglasses, stylists own Gloves, stylists own Shoes, models own

Gavrielle Dress, 90, Athena Handbag, 35, Those Were the Days Headscarf, stylists own Boots, models own

Nicole Top, 35, Eden Shorts, 35, Those Were the Days Headpiece, Karen Reid, price on demand

MODELS: Nicole Abbott Brent Cosford, www.brentcosford.com Gavrielle Kirk-Cohen HAIR STYLIST: Katie Fotheringham, katief-@hotmail.co.uk MAKE-UP ARTIST: Susie Bloice, www.complexions-perth.co.uk CLOTHES PROVIDED BY: Athena, 96 West Bow, Edinburgh, EH1 2HH, www.athenaboutique.co.uk. Eden, 18 North West Circus Place Edinburgh EH3 6SX, www.edenretail.co.uk. Godiva, 9 West Port, The Grassmarket, Edinburgh, EH12JA, www.godivaboutique.co.uk. Lady Jo Jos, 11 West Port, The Grassmarket, Edinburgh, EH1 2JA, www.ladyjojosboutique.com Pie in the Sky, 21 Cockburn St, Edinburgh, EH1 1BP. The Frayed Hem, 45 Cockburn Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1BS. Those Were the Days, 26 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, Edinburgh, EH3 5AL, www.thosewerethedaysvintage.com.

Nicole Cover up, 50, Eden Top, 30, Godiva Shorts, 65, Godiva Necklace, stylists own Gavrielle Dress 47.99 Pie in the Sky

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BOUTIQUE CHIC
GODIVA Location: Grassmarket, Edinburgh Been around since: 2003 Shop style in 3 words: Fashion-forward, quirky and passionate. Stuff they sell: More than just a second-hand store, Godiva boasts a wide range of unique vintage pieces in mens and womens wear, as well as showcasing work from innovative local and UK-based designers. Celebrating ethical design and quality, Godiva has become a gallery for exquisite original style, combining vintage elegance, inspired design and up-to-the-minute trends. Any specialist features: The made-to-measure service is a must for anyone wanting to avoid the dreaded faux pas of wearing the same dress as someone else to a special event. Choose from a range of eight sample styles, pick a fabric to suit your taste, and Godivas designer will create an original masterpiece, tailor-made to suit you! Who would love this shop: Anyone seeking creative original pieces and bargain vintage steals. Celebrity match: Chlo Sevigny. THOSE WERE THE DAYS Location: St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, Edinburgh Been around since: October 2011 Shop style in 3 words: A vintage fashionistas paradise.

WORDS JILL GEOGHEGAN PHOTOGRAPHY PAMELA PATERSON

There comes a point, usually after bumping into our Topshop cable-knit for the third time, when independent shopping is the only way to go. From handmade splendours to vintage bargains, look to the treasure trove of boutiques scattered across the capital

Stuff they sell: This unique boutique boasts a handpicked collection of vintage fashions, bridal wear and jewellery, sourced from London, Paris and L.A. The vintage designer and high street pieces, spanning from the 1930s to the 1980s, are all lovingly cleaned and restored, and are sure to add glamour to any wardrobe. Any specialist features: With an eclectic daywear collection and fabulous accessories, Those Were The Days also offers stunning creations from high-end designers such as Chanel and Versace, and iconic labels Biba and Mary Quant. Who would love this shop: Anyone worth their fashion salt wont be able to help falling head over heels for this hidden gem. Brimming with high fashion and one-off delights, its a step ahead of your average vintage store. Celebrity match: Sarah Jessica Parker. LADY JOJOS Location: Grassmarket, Edinburgh Been around since: 2010 Shop style in 3 words: Sophisticated retro glamour. Stuff they sell: Lady JoJos is a haven of classic 1950s influenced fashion, specialising in chic silhouettes that ooze femininity and style. Championing the hourglass figure with full skirts and halter-necks, this boutique hosts irresistible, handpicked pieces that are sure to turn heads, for all the right reasons. Any specialist features: The in-store altering service means that you can tweak Lady JoJos

own fashion line to suit your personal taste and style, and with a new bridal range in the works this is one store not to be missed on any shopping spree. Who would love this shop: Young professional ladies needing a show-stopping outfit for any occasion that calls for looking fabulous, from summer weddings to cocktails with the girls. Celebrity match: Scarlett Johansson. PIE IN THE SKY Location: Cockburn Street, Edinburgh Been around since: Over 40 years! Shop style in 3 words: Funky, eclectic and wellcool. Stuff they sell: Catering for the rebel in all of us, Pie in the Sky is a mix of exciting and diverse fashion at affordable prices. Stocking niche brands such as Motel and Sugar Hill, its also home to the Skunk Funk collection, a range for those thirty somethings that still have their finger firmly on the fashion pulse. This established boutique is guaranteed to bring a punky edge to any outfit. Any specialist features: Cookie, Pie in the Skys sister boutique, is a real treat for Edinburghs style queens. Boasting pieces aimed at the sister of the bride market, their collection of floral dresses are fresh, cute and utterly delectable! Who would love this shop: Those who crave something a bit edgier than the high street norm, but still want to look stylish. Celebrity match: Kristen Stewart.

Interior: Godiva

Exterior: Those were the days

Interior: Lady JoJos

Interior: Pie in the Sky

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Ivy League Blood Sucker: Barber poses for Rollercoaster Magazine.

Life as a Topman
WORDS ANNA REDMAN PHOTOGRAPH WONDERLAND MAGAZINE

Name: Jake Barber Age: 23 Hometown: Cambridge Agency: Elite Models London How did you get into modelling: I was scouted, walking down the street in my hometown Companies Modelled for: Topman, Rollacoaster, Harpers Bazaar China, UnderUnderwear What hes doing now: MSc in the Environment, Culture, and Society at the University of Edinburgh

How old were you when you started modelling? Twenty-three actually, which is apparently pretty old, but thats what a baby face does to you!
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Whats the weirdest thing thats ever happened to you as a model? I had to wear a Burberry man skirt in the Harpers Bazaar shoot. The photo is currently doing the rounds amongst my friends on facebook, not fun!
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Would you recommend modelling as a student career, why or why not? It really depends. If you are early in your undergraduate studies, a little ambivalent about them, and you live in London then by all means yes. For most people modelling means being constantly on call, having to meet clients and going to castings. If you have the time to commit to it, you can make big money, but to establish yourself, youll have to work to the detriment of other commitments like your studies.
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Whats your least favourite part about modelling? Ive got to admit I never really enjoyed modelling all that much. Everything is quick turnover, quick friends, superficial smiles, and nasty bitching.
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Whats the best thing thats ever happened to you on a shoot? On the Topman shoot I spent the day with Duane Nasis whos just a lovely bloke and Harry Lampert whos hilarious, so that was just good fun.
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Have you ever turned down a modelling job? Since being in Edinburgh my Topman shots went live. After that I received a lot of interest and my booker (agent) kept calling me up but I felt like Id made the decision that furthering my studies is the thing I really want to do. As a result Ive turned down a lot of potential work and now the phone has stopped ringing.
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Whats the worst thing thats ever happened to you while modelling? The UnderUnderwear shoot was on the hottest day of the year and I spent all day in front of extremely hot industrial lighting...
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What do you like to do in your spare time? I play waterpolo, and if and when I have time I try to bust out the knitting.
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Whats one random thing that would surprise people about you? I hate having my picture taken.
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