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Fall 2012

Sewing Solutions

Tips and Techniques for the Savvy Sewist


by Nicole vasbinder

Even the best sewists will encounter problems, snags, and little
glitches in their work. Expert sewist Nicole Vasbinders Sewing
Solutions is an indispensable reference filled with invaluable
advice.
Organized by stages, youll find:
Detailed advice for the sewing process, including pros and
cons, and basic considerations of working in each step.
An easy-to-follow layout providing basic information as well
as step-by-step techniques for making bias tape, sewing
trims, buttonholes, zippers, hems, and more.
Easy-to-navigate color-coded cross-references available for
quick referencing.
Troubleshooting tips that advise how to deal with every
sewing situation.
Whether choosing the right tools, reading patterns correctly,
or everything in between, Sewing Solutions will prove to be an
essential sewing companion.

Nicole Vasbinder owns and operates StitchCraft and an independent accessory line Queen Puff Puff. A founding teacher of Stitch
Lounge in San Francisco, she currently teaches at Stonemountain
and Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley. Her designs have been featured
in the Wall Street Journal, Adorn Magazine, JoAnn Magazine, Venus
Zine and Craft. She lives in Petaluma, California.

ISBN: 978-1-59668-598-7

Page Count: 192

Format: Flexibound

Trim Size: 5 8

US Price: $19.95

Release Date: December

Canada: $19.95

Season: Fall 2012

Sewing Solutions

Interweave books are sold and distributed to the book trade by Perseus distribution in the U.S. and Canada.
(800) 343-4499 | orderentry@perseusbooks.com

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT: NOTIONS AND

TRIMS

Bias Tape

Rickrack

FACTS

FACTS

SECTION TWO
What it is

Solutions
& Tricks

What it is

Bias tape or bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric, cut on


the bias or cross-grain to make it more stretchable than
fabric that is cut on the grain. It is used to make piping,
binding seams, and to finish raw edges. Many strips can be
pieced together to form a long tape. Bias tape widths can
vary from about to about 3 depending on what it is
being used for.
see p.143: What is cross grain?

Also called ric rac or rick-rack, rickrack is made by braiding


thread into a flat zigzag shaped tape, it is used as trim on
clothes and curtains. Typically, rickrack is made from
polyester and from a single color, and it has a dull or
matte finish. Rickrack can also be metallic, glossy, or
variegated with strips or gradations of color. Some
manufacturers add decorative details with embroidery or
paint to make rickrack more colorful.

Most commonly seen on

CHAPTER 5
FABRIC SOLUTIONS

Most commonly seen on

Aside from piping, binding, and finishing raw edges, bias tape is
most commonly seen on edges of quilts, placemats, bibs, as
dress or bag straps, and around armholes and necklines.

Q.
A.

Types of bias tape


Commercially available bias tape is usually of three types:
simple, single-fold, and double-fold bias tape.

Can you make bias tape?


Yes, its possible to make these at
home using bias tape makers,
which come in a range of sizes.

see p.73: Bias tape makers

Where to get it
Most fabric stores stock bias tape. Store bought bias tape
comes in a variety of widths and a huge range of colors, but
the majority of these are solid rather than patterned.every
crafter should knowHomemade bias tape is great if you
want a patterned bias to match the fabric used in your
project. Its also so simple to make that most crafters prefer
to use their own rather than store bought!
see p.142: Making bias tape

Q. Why use bias strips?


A. Most woven fabrics (unless they
have a bit of spandex blended
in) have no stretch. But if you tug
a piece of woven fabric along the

Rickrack is often used on quilts and curtains, but its


flexible enough to be used for almost any project your
imagination suggests. You can attach it along the hem of an
item, apply it as a top trim or insert half way into a seam to
create a scalloped edge.

to knit or crochet with fine

94

CHAPTER 7
SEWING SOLUTIONS

120

needles using thread that can hold

Where to get it

its shape.

Most craft and fabric stores sell rickrack, usually in an


assortment of colors and patterns to meet crafting
needs. In some cases, the material is available by the yard,
allowing crafters to select as much as they need. Other
stores sell rickrack in prepackaged lengths, which can result
in an excess of unused rickrack.

Q. How to apply rickrack?


A. Rickrack is usally applied by hand
using thread that matches the item
being decorated. If youre not

Every crafter should know

Its not that it stretches but it has

Other thread, such as silk or cotton, may be used, but the


resulting rickrack may be more expensive.

CHAPTER 8
EMBELLISHMENT AND
TRIMMING SOLUTIONS

138

CHAPTER 9
FITTING SOLUTIONS

162

CHAPTER 10
FINISHING SOLUTIONS

174

much for hand sewing, it can also


be straight stitched through the

bias, the fabric will give a little bit.


some ease to it. Tape made from

Q. Can you make rickrack?


A. Yes, the simplest options are

80

CHAPTER 6
PATTERN SOLUTIONS

middle by machine, or if the item


youre making wont be washed,
simply glue on the rickrack.

see p.150: Sewing on


trims

bias-cut fabric forms around


curves much more easily, without
causing fabric to pucker.

SEE ALSO

SEE ALSO

p.73: Section One: Chapter 4: Bias tape makers


p.142: Section Two: Chapter 8: Making bias tape
p.143: Section Two: Chapter 8: What is cross grain?

p.150: Section Two: Chapter 8: Sewing on trims

44

45

SOLUTIONS AND TRICKS: FABRIC SOLUTIONS

78

Bias Tape

Use the burn test to identify the fiber content of a mystery fabric.
This will help to sew, press, and care better for your project. Clip off
a 3 length of yarn or fabric, hold one end with sturdy metal tongs
and light one end of the sample. Observe the sample for the results
listed here to determine the fiber content.

Making bias tape: Method 1


YOU WILL NEED

Not self
extinguishing

selvage

GLASS,
ASBESTOS,
METAL

Self extinguishing

The bias
(diagonal to the
selvedge of the fabric)

Burns and chars

Smells of
burning grass

Burns briefly
and chars

Burns and melts

Smells of
burning paper

Soft, gray ash

LINEN,
JUTE, HEMP

Smells of
vinegar

Smells of
burning meat

Hard, black,
irregular bead

Soft, black,
irregular ash

Soft,
black beads

ACETATE OR
TRIACETATE

ACRYLIC (ORLON,
ACRILAN)

ACRYLIC (ZEFRAN,
ZEFKROME)

SILK

Soft, black ash

COTTON,
RAMIE, RAYON

MERCERIZED
COTTON OR
MERCERIZED

Burns briefly
and melts

Smells of
burning hair

Smells of
turmeric

Hard, black,
irregular ash

Soft, gray ash

Irregular,
dark ash

Smells
of celery

Smells of
burning
asphalt

Sharp,
chemical
odor

Open, lacelike ash

Hard,
gray beads

Hard,
tan beads

Hard, black,
irregular
beads

WEIGHTED
SILK

NYLON

OLEFIN

MODACRYLIC

WOOL,
CASHMERE,
MOHAIR, ALPACA

102

Linen

Acetate

Acrylic

Silk

Wool

Nylon

Rayon

First decide how wide your strips should be. If you are
making single fold bias tape, you want your strips to be twice
the width of your final tape minus 1/8 (so for 1/2 single fold
bias tape, you need 7/8 wide strips). For double fold bias tape
you want your strips four times the width of your final tape
minus 1/8.

bias fold

cut edge

1 yard of fabric
Bias tape maker
see p.73 Bias tape
makers
Quilting ruler
Iron
Tailors chalk or pencil
Rotary cutter
Cutting mat

Sweet,
chemical
odor

Hard, black,
round beads

VINYON

POLYESTER

Fold the selvage over to form a


triangle, creating a 45 degree
fold along the bias.

bias
fold

bias
cut edge

bias
cut edge

Polyester

103

142

4
bias
cut edge

A. Looking at the fabric diagram


cut from the big bolt at the
fabric shop) and the other
edges create fabric grain
lines. The selvage is

Cut along that fold and voila,


you have a bias cut edge!

But since most of us have a


small cutting surface, fold the
triangle in half along again,
creating another 45 degree
fold along the bias. This will
allow you to cut more of the
fabric at once on a smaller
cutting mat.

Q. What is a cross grain?

the cut edge (where it was

Then fold the triangle in half


again.

Im making wide doublefold bias tape, so I need to cut


2 wide strips. Remember that
youre cutting from the BIAS
CUT EDGE. Use your chalk to
mark which edge is which, if
you need to. Using a rotary
cutter, quilting ruler, and
cutting mat, continue cutting
your strips till you get to the
end of your fabric.

the lengthwise grain, while


the cut edge is the crosswise
grain. The bias is a diagonal
line in the middle of that,
creating a bias grain. It makes
two 45 degree angles with
the cut edge and the selvage.

FABRIC FOR
BIAS TAPE
Fabrics with small prints work
best, as large prints might not be

Now sew all the strips together. This can be tedious but this
method is fairly quickly and seems easiest to me.

obvious on a thin bias tape. Here


are some types of fabric you can
make bias tape from:

Take two strips of fabric that


have edges angled in the same
direction.
Overhang

p.73: Section One: Chapter 4:


Bias tape makers
p 146: Section Two: Chapter 8:
Making a Bias tape: Method 2

FABRIC TIPS

edge is the Selvage. Both

6
bias
cut edge

If you have a super long


cutting mat, you can start
cutting bias strips now along
the bias cut edge. Go straight
to Step 6.

If you need to make your


triangle even smaller still, cut
along the bias fold you have
created.

on the far left, one edge is


bias
cut edge

cut edge

bias
cut edge

Hard, black,
irregular
beads

SEE ALSO

Cotton

BURNS

Does not burn

MAKING BIAS TAPE

SOLUTIONS AND TRICKS: EMBELLISHMENT AND TRIMMING SOLUTIONS

FIBER CONTENT OF FABRICS

Determining the
fiber content

79

right
angle
90

Put the right sides of the fabric


together. You need the tip of
each strip to overhang a bit,
(youll see why in the next
step). The strips end up
overhanging about ) and
make a 90 degree angle with
each other. Try to be as exact

100% cotton
Cotton/poly blend
(I find this easiest to use)

Satin (or Polyester Satin)


Knits
Flannel, corduroy, and
cotton variations

143

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