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Sewing Solutions
Even the best sewists will encounter problems, snags, and little
glitches in their work. Expert sewist Nicole Vasbinders Sewing
Solutions is an indispensable reference filled with invaluable
advice.
Organized by stages, youll find:
Detailed advice for the sewing process, including pros and
cons, and basic considerations of working in each step.
An easy-to-follow layout providing basic information as well
as step-by-step techniques for making bias tape, sewing
trims, buttonholes, zippers, hems, and more.
Easy-to-navigate color-coded cross-references available for
quick referencing.
Troubleshooting tips that advise how to deal with every
sewing situation.
Whether choosing the right tools, reading patterns correctly,
or everything in between, Sewing Solutions will prove to be an
essential sewing companion.
Nicole Vasbinder owns and operates StitchCraft and an independent accessory line Queen Puff Puff. A founding teacher of Stitch
Lounge in San Francisco, she currently teaches at Stonemountain
and Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley. Her designs have been featured
in the Wall Street Journal, Adorn Magazine, JoAnn Magazine, Venus
Zine and Craft. She lives in Petaluma, California.
ISBN: 978-1-59668-598-7
Format: Flexibound
Trim Size: 5 8
US Price: $19.95
Canada: $19.95
Sewing Solutions
Interweave books are sold and distributed to the book trade by Perseus distribution in the U.S. and Canada.
(800) 343-4499 | orderentry@perseusbooks.com
TRIMS
Bias Tape
Rickrack
FACTS
FACTS
SECTION TWO
What it is
Solutions
& Tricks
What it is
CHAPTER 5
FABRIC SOLUTIONS
Aside from piping, binding, and finishing raw edges, bias tape is
most commonly seen on edges of quilts, placemats, bibs, as
dress or bag straps, and around armholes and necklines.
Q.
A.
Where to get it
Most fabric stores stock bias tape. Store bought bias tape
comes in a variety of widths and a huge range of colors, but
the majority of these are solid rather than patterned.every
crafter should knowHomemade bias tape is great if you
want a patterned bias to match the fabric used in your
project. Its also so simple to make that most crafters prefer
to use their own rather than store bought!
see p.142: Making bias tape
94
CHAPTER 7
SEWING SOLUTIONS
120
Where to get it
its shape.
CHAPTER 8
EMBELLISHMENT AND
TRIMMING SOLUTIONS
138
CHAPTER 9
FITTING SOLUTIONS
162
CHAPTER 10
FINISHING SOLUTIONS
174
80
CHAPTER 6
PATTERN SOLUTIONS
SEE ALSO
SEE ALSO
44
45
78
Bias Tape
Use the burn test to identify the fiber content of a mystery fabric.
This will help to sew, press, and care better for your project. Clip off
a 3 length of yarn or fabric, hold one end with sturdy metal tongs
and light one end of the sample. Observe the sample for the results
listed here to determine the fiber content.
Not self
extinguishing
selvage
GLASS,
ASBESTOS,
METAL
Self extinguishing
The bias
(diagonal to the
selvedge of the fabric)
Smells of
burning grass
Burns briefly
and chars
Smells of
burning paper
LINEN,
JUTE, HEMP
Smells of
vinegar
Smells of
burning meat
Hard, black,
irregular bead
Soft, black,
irregular ash
Soft,
black beads
ACETATE OR
TRIACETATE
ACRYLIC (ORLON,
ACRILAN)
ACRYLIC (ZEFRAN,
ZEFKROME)
SILK
COTTON,
RAMIE, RAYON
MERCERIZED
COTTON OR
MERCERIZED
Burns briefly
and melts
Smells of
burning hair
Smells of
turmeric
Hard, black,
irregular ash
Irregular,
dark ash
Smells
of celery
Smells of
burning
asphalt
Sharp,
chemical
odor
Hard,
gray beads
Hard,
tan beads
Hard, black,
irregular
beads
WEIGHTED
SILK
NYLON
OLEFIN
MODACRYLIC
WOOL,
CASHMERE,
MOHAIR, ALPACA
102
Linen
Acetate
Acrylic
Silk
Wool
Nylon
Rayon
First decide how wide your strips should be. If you are
making single fold bias tape, you want your strips to be twice
the width of your final tape minus 1/8 (so for 1/2 single fold
bias tape, you need 7/8 wide strips). For double fold bias tape
you want your strips four times the width of your final tape
minus 1/8.
bias fold
cut edge
1 yard of fabric
Bias tape maker
see p.73 Bias tape
makers
Quilting ruler
Iron
Tailors chalk or pencil
Rotary cutter
Cutting mat
Sweet,
chemical
odor
Hard, black,
round beads
VINYON
POLYESTER
bias
fold
bias
cut edge
bias
cut edge
Polyester
103
142
4
bias
cut edge
FABRIC FOR
BIAS TAPE
Fabrics with small prints work
best, as large prints might not be
Now sew all the strips together. This can be tedious but this
method is fairly quickly and seems easiest to me.
FABRIC TIPS
6
bias
cut edge
cut edge
bias
cut edge
Hard, black,
irregular
beads
SEE ALSO
Cotton
BURNS
Determining the
fiber content
79
right
angle
90
100% cotton
Cotton/poly blend
(I find this easiest to use)
143