Public Services

Alfie Banks

Safety in Rock Climbing

Can you explain the following terms or techniques and why they are used in rock climbing.

1. Using the BMC website can you explain the sequence of

events that should take place before the climber starts on a route, i.e. climb when ready etc?
2. What is a re threaded figure of 8 knot and why is it used?

A figure-eight loop is a type of knot created by a loop on the bight. It is used in climbing and caving where rope strains are light to moderate and for decorative purposes. The double figure eight is used to put a loop in the end of a rope, or around an object. It is relatively easy to tie and is secure, but can become difficult to untie after heavy loading, and can jam badly in any rope type.
3. What is a stopper knot and why is it used? A stopper knot is tied at the end of a rope to prevent the end from unraveling, slipping through another knot, or passing back through a hole, block, or belay. Tying the end around the standing part helps prevent the knot from unraveling by not allowing the end to slide back into the knot. Examples of this usage are often seen in climbing, rope rescue, and other safety-of-life situations. 4. Explain how the belay device is threaded? To use a belay plate, a bight or loop of rope is pushed through the slot and clipped into a carabiner on your harness. This arrangement creates a lot of friction when both sides of the rope are pulled in opposition. 5. What does fall factor mean in terms of the climbing rope?

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Alfie Banks

In climbing, (specifically in lead climbing) using a dynamic rope, the fall factor f is the ratio of the height h a climber falls before the climber's rope begins to stretch and the rope length L available to absorb the energy of the fall. 6. Why is it important to use the correct belay device with the

correct thickness of rope? It is important to use a thick rope so the belay device is easily feed able in the control of the rope, rather than a thin rope because it would simply just slide through the belay device and have nothing to grab onto. As well as if you use a extremely thick rope it wouldnt be able to go through the belay device therefore you need to get the correct size rope in contrast to the belay device size.
7. How often should you change your climbing rope?

Depending on how often you use your rope will decide on if you should change your rope, if you use it once every two weeks then there would be no need, but if you used the rope twice a week then it would be crucial to change it.
8. Why is it important that during outside climbing both the

climber and belayer should wear a helmet? It is important for the climber and belayer to wear a helmet during climbing outside because of falling debris from the rock they are climbing.
9. The BMC are focusing on the ABC of climbing safety can you

explain each of these and include the posters?

The ABC of Safety MLTE has been working with the British Mountaineering Council to produce three posters for climbing walls to promote safe belaying and abseiling. The posters are available from MLTE or BMC and you can download a copy of the accompanying Safe Belaying and Abseiling leaflet from this page or from the Downloads page.

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Alfie Banks

A = Safe Abseiling Abseiling - Get it right! Many serious and fatal abseiling accidents are often preventable, and this poster aims to make people aware of three simple issues. B = Safe Belaying Belaying - Get it right! With the choice of ropes and belaying devices expanding, and more climbers getting into the sport through indoor walls, this vital skill needs more focus. C= Check or Deck Check or Deck! A revamp of the original 1997 poster campaign, and the message is very much the same - take time to check your knot!

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