P5.

Selling Gold Jewelry

P6. All That Glitters

P7. Pearl Developments

P8. Sinkankas Symposium

NEWS SAN DIEGO

6/10
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Whats inside this issue

Our June issue is packed with many good tips and advice from industry experts. The San Diego chapter is working hard to put forward an educational emphasis and provide good information that benefits our members. All the ladies on our Board of Directors are thankful for the many contributors and for having access to the great images you see here. For our June issue we received many images from GIAs Visual Resources library, the San Diego Natural History Museum, AGTA and from photographer Robert Weldon. Our last issue, which appeared in March, was our first to go digital. We received good feedback and lots of tremendous suggestions. Our next issue goes out in September; please be sure to check out the upcoming articles by the industry experts such as Peggy Jo Donahue, an industry analyst, writer and consultant, and Elise B. Misiorowski, the SDNHM Exhibit Curator, (All That Glitters) and Gabril Mattice, our resident gem connoisseur and world traveler. It is going to be a good one! Orasa Weldon
San Diego Chapter: Newsletter

A view of the gem city Mogok, in upper Burma, a source for some of the worlds finest rubies and sapphires. photo courtesy of Bill Larson, Pala International, Fallbrook, CA.

April 2010 Program Recap Gem Crystals of Burma with Bill Larson
Bill Larson is one of the worlds most dynamic experts in the mineral and colored gemstone trade. He has lectured all over the world and is regularly in demand as a gem consultant. Items from his gem collection can often be viewed at some of the worlds most recognized museums (including at GIAs) and most recently at The San Diego Natural History Museum, Balboa Park. It was a great turn out for his talk. Attendees from far away drove all day to listen to him speak. Some decided to stay the night at the La Costa Resort & Spa, where the talk was held in mid-April. The talk was jointly organized by WJA and GIA Alumni from the San Diego Chapters. Larson was as energetic and enthusiastic as ever, capturing his audiences imagination with exotic tales about Burma (known as Myanmar). As expected, Larson also left his audience wanting more. Larson holds such distinctions and current positions as US Ambassador for the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA), and Board Member of the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), while leading his company Pala International, a highly respected distributor of fine and unusual colored gems. He is also recognized as the individual who put San Diego gem mining back on the charts with his mine ownership, significant mining operations and discoveries in the Pala gem mining district, beginning with his efforts in the 1960s.

Chair

ADVERTISE IN OR CONTRIBUDE TO OUR NEWSLETTER

Matched pair of Oregon sunstones and reach San Diegos most sunstones exhibiting schiller. Courtesy Rogue Gems. www. roguegems.com Increase exposure for your business Matched pair of Oregon To advertise or contribute to our newsletter, contact Orasa Weldon connected jewelry professionals. at owdesign1@mac.com www. roguegems.com

Welcome New Member

Kim Mayne-Hatzold Owner of UntamedSpiritStudios.com

Presidents Message
k, its June. Im not exactly sure how that happened, but here we are half way into the year. Looking back, Im impressed with my amazing board and the work theyve done to put together new strategies for growing and supporting our members, providing professional development, and fun networking events. Weve had 3 educational programs, a no-host happy hour every month, and weve lined-up several networking events that will take place in some of San Diegos most prestigious locations including the La Costa Spa and Resort and the Del Mar Races. In April I attended the 2010 WJA Chapter Presidents Retreat in Newark, New Jersey. There are many exciting advancements happening that will make a big impact on our chapters and our nationwide network of members. Soon, youll be receiving news about new member services including professional discounts in banking and shipping, an enhanced job board, additional online seminars, leadership development, corporate memberships, and much more. I cant emphasize enough how important your membership and involvement is to our chapter. So, once again, I want to give you my email address and let you know I welcome your suggestions and input. If you have ideas, questions, suggestions, or just want to touch base, please feel free to email me at dana@mmgoldsmith.com. Onward.

Member Grants 2010 recipient: Lisa Baker

I was very fortunate to receive a $100 member grant from WJA San Diego and a $500 member grant from WJA national. The timing could not have been more perfect. In April, I attended the Museum Store Association conference in Austin, and I used the grants for the registration fee and associated expenses. This was a significant learning opportunity for me as museum stores are becoming a large percentage of my clientele, and I am new to this segment of the retail industry. Thank you, Lisa Baker

Dana Meyer-Maxwell
dana@mmgoldsmith.com

Do You Want to Know About Member Grants? Heres how it works

WJA provides Member Grants in amounts up to $500, which are awarded each year. They may be granted to any female member of the association who is in good standing. There is no application fee. Applications are emailed to the membership in late September and must be submitted by the published due date (usually January 31st). The Grant Committee then chooses one winner from each chapter through a lottery process. Applicants must include a written paragraph and information on what the grant is intended for - this is to qualify them for the lottery. If a chapter comes up with no qualified applicants, the monies are awarded to a candidate from another chapter, until all the WJA national grant money is awarded for that year. Winners of the grant must use the money for professional development within the jewelry industry. Awards cannot be used to buy raw materials, such as gold, gemstones, etc. for your business. It can be used for marketing, business strategies, industry education, books, attendance at a trade fair, etc. However it does not necessarily have to be used for what was stated on your application. Life changes, we understand that, but the money does have to be used within the calendar year or the money reverts back into WJAs funding to be given away the following year. You must spend the money first then youll be reimbursed with proof of use, such as a receipt of your submittal. Reimbursements must be submitted by Jan. 31st of the following year. We want to encourage all of our members to submit for a grant this coming fall. It is definitely a great incentive to join our organization and to stay involved with WJA! If you have any additional questions or need help with reimbursements for this year, please call or email Jayne Schultz jayneschultz.w@gmail.com.

2 News San Diego June 2010

Womens Jewelry Association San Diego Chapter

l Want to know whats on the minds -- and desks

-- of todays top female jewelry professionals? We did. So we asked. And heres what they said. l

From the Desk

of Bran dee Dallo w

We spoke with Ann Arnold, CFO/VP of Lieberfarb, Inc., past WJA National President and WJA National Executive Board Member
1) What do you know now that you wish you knew then? To be patient and things always work out and not to get overwhelmed and feel alone; you are not alone, there is always someone you can turn to, if you just think about it. 2) What do you see as a new trend in the jewelry industry? Social Networking has really exploded into the mainstream in every industry, and the jewelry industry is no exception. There is a group [from our industry] that is totally into it, and yet there are a lot out there that are just dabbling. I think that this trend will continue to grow and have an impact on not only our businesses, but also how we do business. 3) If you could offer one piece of advice to women jewelry professionals what would it be? My favorite saying: Its OK to have dust in the corner! - I heard this saying at my first Women in the Know Conference, and it totally liberated me. At the time I had two very young children, I was running my company and just trying to keep my head above water. When I heard this, I realized, WOW it is not just me! You mean I dont have to be perfect in everything? I can have dust in the corners! My later realization was that the beds dont need to be made everyday either. Very liberating! 4) Who most influenced you in the jewelry industry? Well, I have to say my father, Mark Schonwetter. He is a Holocaust survivor. He immigrated to the US in the early 60s and the first job he found was sweeping floors in a jewelry company. Within 5 years he was factory foreman, and within another 5 years the opportunity presented itself, and he bought our company, Lieberfarb. He has always taught my sister Isabella and me that we can accomplish anything as long as we really want it. He showed me that adversity can be overcome by will. Things may not always work out the way you plan, but they do work out. He is my inspiration and my hero. 5) Whats your favorite gemstone or piece of jewelry? When my sister and I were young, we had my father make us two identical rings, sister rings. They are yellow gold rings with a diamond horseshoe. In the middle of my horseshoe is a blue sapphire, and my sisters [contains] a light blue topaz. When I was younger that was my special go to ring. Now I have passed it down to my daughter. My sister, who had only sons, plans on giving her ring as a gift to my other younger daughter. We hope that they will continue the tradition we started and that these rings will continue to pass through the generations to come.
June 2010 News San Diego 3

5 Questions in 5 Minutes

Right now, my desk is filled with anything and everything Las Vegas Show related -printed signage, booth documentation, badge and hotel forms, advertisements, marketing concepts, etc. I always laugh when we hit May each year as it never seems there is enough time to get everything done despite having had the year prior to prepare. Luckily, in the end, we land in Las Vegas, the clutter goes away, and its time to have fun!
Brandee is the Director of Marketing & Communications, Julius Klein Group

From The Desk Of Becka Johnson Kibby

At this moment, I have several projects on my desk that need my attention ASAP with the Vegas shows quickly approaching! The one that needs my concentration the most is the presentation that I am giving on Friday, June 4th at 10:00am, called Increasing Sales by Romancing the Experience. I need to refine my notes and my PowerPoint to make it even more exciting than last years presentation! The other big ongoing project is promoting the company I joined in January called The Q Report. I know retailers will love all the benefits it offers, so I have my list of contacts that I am slowly getting through! See everyone in Vegas!
Becka Johnson Kibby, G.G. National Sales and Training Manager The Q Report becka@qreportusa.com

Contributors for June 2010

Entrepreneur, Speaker, Writer blaire@designsbyblaire.com Independent Appraiser www.geolat.com

Blaire Beavers,
Blaire lectures and writes extensively on pearls, rare pearls and latest trends in the pearl industry and owns and operates a pearl business. She has visited pearl farms in Mexico, French Polynesia, New Zealand and Australia and maintains contact with pearl entrepreneurs and enthusiasts the world over. A distance student at GIA, Blaire is working toward her Graduate Gemologist Diploma, and is president of the San Diego Chapter of the GIA Alumni Association. She was recently published in JCK Online and will be speaking to the Manhattan GIA Alumni Chapter on rare pearls in August.

Patti J. Geolat
Patti Geolat, founder & CEO of Geolat Companies, is a widely known authority on appraisal, brokerage & sale of fine jewelry. Her clientele includes many of the top jewelry houses globally, as well an extensive network of private & industry collectors. She has a reputation for excellence, confidentiality & ethics in the private world of jewelry and gemstones, giving her access at the highest levels.

Jewelry Appraiser, Designer and Goldsmith info@vickieriggsdesigns.com

Gemologist, Appraiser, Speaker and Writer jocole2@cox.net

Vickie L. Riggs
Vickie is a Graduate Jeweler Gemologist and has been designing and fabricating her own jewelry line since graduating from GIA. In 2008 she launched her Jewelry Appraisal service. Vickie has served as the WJA newsletter editor for six years, has won local and nation design competitions and is currently working with Adorn Gallery in downtown San Diego to bring national recognition to creative designer jewelry in San Diego.

Jo Ellen Cole
Jo Ellen has been involved in the jewelry industry for over three decades. After earning her Graduate Gemologist Diploma in 1979, she continued her studies with the prestigious Gemmological Association of Great Britain, passing her F.G.A. examinations in 1982. After working for several years in both retail and wholesale venues Jo Ellen returned to her love of laboratory work when she accepted a job at an appraisal laboratory. This led to a management position with Guild Laboratories in Los Angeles. After many years in the appraisal industry, she took a position as research librarian at the Gemological Institute of America in 1991. In 1994 Jo Ellen became Curator of the Permanent Stone Collection at GIA and held the position for seven years. In March 2002 Cole Appraisal Services was established and continues to offer appraisal reports, identification reports and museum and display consultancy services.

2010 Calendar of Events

*HAPPY HOUR Last Thursday date: June 24th time: 6:30p.m. Details to Come.
For more information and to register for these events, visit our WJA San Diego Chapter website at: wjasdmemberlodge.com

Come and join us

MEET THE MEDIA date: June 29th time: (Details to come) Join us for an evening with Mia Stefano, assistant publisher of San Diegos Ranch & Coast magazine.

womensjewelry.org
WJA AWARD FOR EXCELLENCE GALA date: July 26th WJAs Award for Excellence Gala Dinner and Ceremony will once again be held at Chelsea Pier in New York City. For more
information and sponsorship opportunities, call 212-687-2722 or visit our national website at: http://www. womensjewelryassociation.com

San Diego Chapter

A DAY AT THE FAMOUS DEL MAR RACETRACK date: August 1st Join us for our annual Day at the Races at the Famous Del Mar Race Track! Check back for information and for early bird ticket prices.

4 News San Diego June 2010

Womens Jewelry Association San Diego Chapter

Need to know + Selling Gold Jewelry

Selling Gold Jewelry

The Buyers Expertise Counts
by Patti J. Geolat

Late last year, I read the news that a class

action suit was filed against Cash4Gold, a wellmarketed, long-distance buyer of pre-owned gold jewelry. The suit alleges that Cash4Gold purposely undervalued gold jewelry or made it impossible for customers dissatisfied with Cash4Golds valuation of their jewelry to reject the offer and have their jewelry returned to them. I have no comment on the specific allegations in this case, and Cash4Gold has denied them in the jewelry trade press. But I do know a lot about consumers who try to sell jewelry and gemstones. Ive dealt with them for years in my appraisal business. They often come back to complain to me, after they have attempted to sell the items I had appraised. They tell tales that raise the hairs on the back of my neck. I want jewelry owners to feel good about their purchases, both when they buy, as well as it when it comes time to part with their precious pieces. Unfortunately, too many consumers end up feeling confused, angry and taken for a ride instead. Its a pity, because if both sellers and buyers of jewelry and gemstones followed some basic, common sense rules, backed up by facts and ethics, wed all be a lot happier, and the business of buying and selling pre-owned jewelry could boom. A new generation of consumers is getting very comfortable buying, selling and trading all kinds of personal property, from electronics and designer clothes to handbags and jewelry. They need to be reassured that theres an above-board way to complete these transactions. But first, let me be clear: I know members of the jewelry trade who purchase jewelry ethically. I deal with them regularly as part of my other business - in which I broker the sale of pre-owned fine jewelry between willing buyers and sellers through my Private Treaty Auction system. But there are individuals and businesses that are either uneducated about the factors that go into valuing fine jewelry or are only too happy to exploit sellers who might not understand those factors. Finding a well-informed,

than melting them down. He or she will be able to identify signed pieces, or those made by a popular designer. Conversely, an experienced buyer of pre-owned jewelry will also be able to assure you when a piece has no further intrinsic value beyond its metal content. CD Honesty. Retailers should honestly acknowledge if they do not regularly trade in pre-owned or estate goods. They are also happy to refer their clients to a professional who is knowledgeable. Or sometimes a jeweler does not have the cash flow to buy an item at a fair price, but will turn over a client to another dealer who does. CD Pricing Transparency. The general public does not fully understand that theres usually a vast difference between the price they pay in a store to buy a piece of jewelry, versus the price at which a professional buyer of pre-owned jewelry would be willing to purchase an item. Ask your prospective buyer if he or she can value your jewelry in two ways: 1.) the price at which he or she believes it could sell to the public, and 2.) the price at which he or she would buy it from you. Once consumers understand the buyers need to make a profit from the transaction, as well as pricing in the pre-owned jewelry market, the numbers become transparent.

professional and ethical buyer should be the goal of every consumer considering the disposition of fine jewelry. Remember, youre looking for someone who can determine not only the price of gold or the amount of gold in a piece of jewelry - but also whether your pieces might garner more dollars being sold as estate jewelry. So here are some guidelines to consider. CD Credentials. Does the buyer youre considering have the expertise to truly evaluate jewelry? Accreditation as an expert in the gems and jewelry field by a respected appraisal organization, such as the American Society of Appraisers or the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers, can help. It means that your buyer is experienced in looking at a piece of jewelry from all perspectives - not just its value as scrap. CD Estate Jewelry Experience. Does the buyer regularly take in pre-owned jewelry for resale? Those with such experience know the value of estate jewelry and may be able to garner a better price for your pieces by reselling them rather

Top: Assortment of yellow gold jewelry: chain necklaces, ring, bracelets, Photo: GIA. Reprinted by permission.

5 News San Diego June 2010

Womens Jewelry Association San Diego Chapter

San Diego Natural History Museum in Balboa Park.

All That Glitters: the Splendor and Science of Gems and Minerals is now open
The heart of the exhibit is a focus on the gem and mineral wealth of California including tourmaline, benitoite, and other gems from this wonderful state as well as gold. Throughout the exhibit are carvings, jeweled objects and jewelry fashioned in natural history themes: jeweled flowers, insects, birds, mammals, reptiles, and sea creatures will bloom, fly, wriggle, swim and prowl in every case providing a unique thread for visitors to follow. The exhibit will remain on view for two years through April 2012 and the exhibit is free with admission to the San Diego Natural History Museum. The gold specimen seen here is crystallized gold from the Eagles Nest Mine in Placer County, California. The specimen is courtesy of Irv Brown and can be seen at the San Diego Natural History Museum.

6 News San Diego June 2010

Womens Jewelry Association San Diego Chapter

Photo: Robert Weldon

Business of Pearl

Recent Pearl Developments G

by Blaire Beavers

ewelers have been hit with a one-two punch: a devastating economic downturn and the increasing cost of precious metals. The question is how to maintain an inventory without a corresponding revenue stream. Nimble merchants are using cultured pearls to fill the gap. Cultured pearls are one of the best values providing a comfortable margin and ongoing popularity with consumers. There has never been a better time to buy them.

Resourceful Chinese growers continue to do whatever it takes to keep their share of the market. The good news is that there have never been better and more interesting pearls available, and at prices that even the smallest retailer can afford. To get an idea of Chinese ingenuity, you only have to look at three of the innovations in Chinese cultured freshwater pearls that have recently appeared: Floppy Coin Pearls Most people are familiar with the keshi, cornflake, petal or reborn pearls that result when a harvested mussel is returned to the water with empty nacre sacs that collapse to form flattened pearls. Floppy coin pearls are thicker and much larger than regular petal pearls. They are made by inserting a piece of flexible plastic -- or in this case -- a piece of vinyl leatherette into the nacre sac. Souffl Pearls First introduced at the Tucson AGTA 2010 show by Sea Hunt Pearls, souffl pearls are second-generation pearls that have been nucleated by dried pond muck. While the Chinese have been inducing colors by using metals for some time, the metallic oxides naturally present in the soil may be the cause of the extreme iridescence and vibrant colors present in the top baroque souffl pearls. Exotic Metallic Pearls Tissue-nucleated pearls with luminous metallic skins and beautiful colors have been appearing with increasing frequency. From baroques to perfect rounds in 6 to 13mm, they give women yet another good reason to buy new pearls. Upon closer inspection, they look very different from traditional pearls.
Top Left: Exotic Metallic Pearl Strand. Photo: Blaire Beavers, Center: Baroque Exotic Metallic Pearls. Photo: Blaire Beavers. Far right: Baroque Souffl Pearls. Photo: Blaire Beavers Bottom: Broken Floppy Coin Pearl. Photo: Sarah Canizzaro, Kojima Company

Tahitian Cultured Pearls

The loss of pearl farms is widespread, and a sad fact. Tahitian pearl farmers find that it costs more to produce pearls than the price for which they can be sold. For those farmers that can hang on, this has lead to stockpiling goods until prices rebound. For many others, it portends the end of their business. The government of French Polynesia is working to exert more control over the market, and their efforts show promise, but the effects will take time. The flood of pearls to market in recent years, has caused overall pearl prices to deflate or to remain at low levels. Even as large South Sea pearl producers are working to keep prices stable, small producers in Indonesia are selling pearls for any price they can get. Chinese Freshwater Cultured Pearls The Chinese market has not been immune. Their enormous volume of production combined with their responsiveness to market conditions has moderated the effect. Unfortunately, thousands of tiny family farms, situated wherever there is a pond or patch of water, are no longer viable.

7 News San Diego June 2010

Womens Jewelry Association San Diego Chapter

Education + Gemology

Sinkankas Symposium
April 17, 2010 : Features Feldspar by Jo Ellen Cole
gave an insightful lecture on the archaeogemology of amazonite, noting that amazonite is one of the oldest carved gem minerals found in dated texts. Following her, noted lapidary and Spectrum Award winner Meg Berry followed, giving expert pointers to those in the audience who practice lapidary and the glyptic arts. She illustrated each of the steps involved in cutting feldspar, from rough to polished of several different feldspar gems. There were ample opportunities to examine the cases in the lecture room during breaks. The showcases held superb examples of rough, loose gem and jewelry items containing different feldspar gems. Also present were several book dealers offering new and used books and journals. Rock Currier, a well-known gem and mineral dealer began the afternoon sessions. Always interested in a new find or source, Mr. Currier has traveled around the world looking for worthwhile specimens and gems to offer to his educated clientele. Images of amazonite mining efforts in Colorado, U.S.A. and Ethiopia helped explain just how difficult this process can be. This was followed by Bill Larson of Pala International, who showed the audience what a world-class collection of gem feldspars looks like by showing image after image of spectacular moonstones, sunstones, labradorites and amazonites, rough and cut; all part of his incredible personal collection. GIAs inclusion expert, John Koivula went next, eliciting exclamations from the audience with his remarkable and beautiful microphotography and fascinating explanation of feldspars as inclusions (in other minerals), as well as inclusions within feldspars. The last two lectures of the day related to one another. Dr. George Rossman, Professor of Mineralogy in the Division of Geological and Planetary Sciences, California Institute of Technology began with an explanation of the causes of color in the different feldspars. Then the floor was given over to Shane McClure, Director of West Coast Identification Services at the GIA Lab in Carlsbad, California. Mr.

he Sinkankas Symposium series began in 2003 to honor the late John Sinkankas, gemological Renaissance man extraordinaire, and to perpetuate his questing nature into the world of gemstones and minerals. Each year a specific gem species or group of gem species is selected to be analyzed gemologically, economically, chemically, physically and generally admired for the wonderful natural creation it is. The San Diego Mineral and Gem Society, Chairman Roger Merk and the San Diego Mineral and Gem Society produce this event. At the eighth symposium in this series, the spotlight was squarely on the feldspar group with heavy emphasis on moonstone, sunstone, labradorite and amazonite. As always, attendees at the symposium received a booklet containing articles and photographs focusing on the gemstone or group of gemstones being discussed. Enthusiastic and well-known gemologists, mineralogists, chemists and archaeologists perused every aspect of feldspar under extreme scrutiny, all within the environs of the Gemological Institute of Americas beautiful campus in Carlsbad, California. Keynote speaker, Robert Weldon began the day with an impressive slideshow and an overview of the feldspar group. The images of gems were also taken by Mr. Weldon showed beautiful rough, cut and mounted specimens of the different gem feldspars. Particularly noteworthy was his photograph of a group of Burmese moonstone jewelry and loose moonstones from the Bill Larson collection, all displaying wonderfully intense adularescence in the same shot. A returning and particularly engaging speaker, Dr. Skip Simmons of the University of New Orleans, then gave an enlightening and easily digestible lecture on the crystallography of gem feldspars, followed by a slideshow of his trip to Madagascar to collect sanidine crystals. The venerable Si Frazier along with his lovely wife Ann then transported the audience to Finland via slides on a tour if its spectrolite mine. Lisbet Thoresen, formerly the Associate Curator of Antiquities at the J. Paul Getty Museum

McClure described the complexities involved with properly and responsibly identifying feldspars, with an emphasis on andesine, which appeared so prevalently at the Tucson shows in the last eight years. He noted that the evidence overwhelmingly points to diffusion treatment of these red and green colored material from China. Mr. McClure said that the real identification challenge would be if someone starts to treat Oregon sunstone by diffusion, explaining that this could be a particularly hard separation to make. Lastly, Dr. Rossman returned to speak on natural and lab-induced color in feldspars with specific comments on the coloration of Chinese red and green andesine. The afternoon sessions concluded yet another exciting and educational Sinkankas Symposium. visit www.sinkankassymposium.net, for more information about the next Symposium

Top: Feldspar necklace design by Alan Friedman and a 59.09 ct. Moonstone from Burma, Courtesy of Boston Gems. Both photos by Robert Weldon 2010

8 News San Diego June 2010

Womens Jewelry Association San Diego Chapter

Education + Gemology

Seen at The Sinkankas Symposium t Carlsbad, California t

April 17, 2010 : Features Feldspar

Top Left Smoky quartz spires rise from a nest of amazonite crystals. From the classic locality in Teller Country, Colorado. Bill Larson collection. www.palagems.com Center Left Twinned moonstone crystal showing adularescence from Mogok, Burma. Bill Larson collection. Bottom Left: A 21.55ct. moonstone from Africa. Courtesy of Boston Gems. www.gemsboston.com Top Right Sunstone, Plush, Oregon, 15.86 ct, by Award - winning cutter, Meg Berry Center Right Unique adularia faden from Fich, Switzerland. Bill Larson collection Bottom Right A brillant display of rainbow colors in pearshaped moonstone from Sri Lanka. Courtesy of Boston Gems. www.gemsboston.com All photos by Robert Weldon 2010

June 2010 News San Diego 9

AGTA Spectrum and Cutting Edge Awards Winners find inspiration from Feldspar
A

A. Michael Endlich Pave Fine Jewelry, Oakland, CA.

Platinum ring featuring a 2.85 ct. rainbow Moonstone cabochon accented with Diamonds (.20 ctw.). 2009-Manufacturing Honors, Bridal Wear B. Evelyn Clothier

Evelyn Clothier Jewelry, New York, NY. Platinum earrings featuring blue Moonstone cabochons (48.82 ctw.) and Diamonds (4.75 ctw.). 2010-Platinum Honors Bridal Wear C. Nandu Nichani Temple Trading Co. Encinitas, CA. Pair of silver pear-shaped Moonstones (107.09 ctw.). 2009-2nd Place B - Pairs & Suites D. James W. Currens

J.W. Currens, Inc. New York, NY. Platinum and silver Empress ring featuring a 15.58 pear-shaped Moonstone accented with color-change Garnets (19.36 ctw.), oval Moonstones (6.40 ctw.) and Diamonds (2.46ctw.). 2010-1st Place Evening Wear

E. Michael Endlich Pave Fine Jewelry, Oakland, CA. 18K rose gold ring featuring a 9.93 ct. rainbow Moonstone accented with two Diamonds (.23 ctw.). 2010-Manufacturing Honors Business/Day Wear F. Dalan Hargrave Dust Devil Mining, Spring Branch, TX 61.0 ct. tri-color Sunstone. 2010-1st Place. D - Carving G.Frederic Sage Frederic Sage, Great Neck, NY 18K white and green gold Empress ring featuring a 32.05 ct. Moonstone accented with Diamonds (1.04 ctw.). 2008-Honorable Mention Business/Day Wear H. Arun Bohra Arunashi, Los Angeles, CA 18K white gold ring featuring a 13.77 ct. silver Moonstone accented with champagne Diamonds (2.11 ctw.). 2008-1st Place Bridal Wear Images courtesy of the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA); all photos by Robert Weldon www.agta.org, for more about the Spectrum and Cutting Edge Awards

H 10 News San Diego June 2010

Womens Jewelry Association San Diego Chapter

Education + Gemology

/
by Vickie L. Riggs

Archaeogemology
An Emerging Branch in Gemology
Lule and together, as well as through seeking additional experts in our area, we were able to help him properly identify and establish value for his stones. Appraisal of jewelry and gemstones is never dull, and archaeogemology is clearly becoming an important factor when appraising antiquities.

ewelry Appraising...it has more twists and turns than one would expect! And that is exactly what makes it so much fun. I wanted to share a new concept that I learned at one of the conferences this last February in Tucson.

Archaeogemology!
Archeo What? You might wonder. Here is what I learned: Archaeogemology is a new concept that uses non-destructive analysis and modern gemology in analyzing archeological gem discoveries. The speaker at the conference was Dr. Cigdem Lule PhD, who is a gemology instructor at GIA in London. She has dedicated a significant part of her professional career to the identification of gem findings from archaeological sites, with an emphasis on origin investigation. Archaeogemology is like being a detective. It solves problems and unknowns, opening new areas for research and human understanding. The use of gemological skills in a museum is gaining awareness. For instance: lets say a museum has a beaded necklace purportedly from the Roman Empire days. The question: is that really so? Now, on closer examination, the beads are identified gemologically as chalcedony, which you know was NOT common to that area; but was in great supply in China. How did it get from China to Rome? What trade routes existed that could have transported the chalcedony beads? Does this verify a previous

Dr. Cigdem Lule, PhD has been a gemology

theory about a possible trade route? These are the kinds of challenges an archaeogemologist might face. In a sense our appraisal business is related. I had heard Dr. Cigdem speak at an earlier conference about the characterization of gems in antique jewelry. This arena is similar in that it involves research about historical gem sources. Knowledge gained about historical sources can be applied to verify the feasibility of an antique piece, or to distinguish it from a replica. To illustrate that point, one day I received a call from a gentleman who had what he thought were two ancient stones dating to Egyptian Pharaohs. I got in touch with Dr.

instructor at GIA London since 2004. She has dedicated a significant part of her professional career to the identification of gem findings from archaeological sites, with an emphasis on origin investigation. Dr. Lule is well known in this area of research, contributing time to several archaeological studies during the past decade. In addition to her PhD in mineralogy, Dr. Lule also earned her FGA and DGA in 1998 and her GG in 2005. Prior research positions include: The Chevening Scholarship for PhD. research at the Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology, Oxford and the Natural History Museum, London both in the United Kingdom, awarded by the British Council of Turkey in 2000. She also worked as a research assistant in the Geological Engineering Department of Ankara University between 1998 and 2001.More
about Dr. Cigdem, go to. www. accreditedgemologists.org Top: Ancient Egyptian necklace ca. 1400 BCE - 100 CE (Late New Kingdom). Made of carnelian, faience, and glass. 40 cm in length, 3.8 cm wide, and .7 deep. Part of the collection of the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada. Photo: GIA. Reprinted by permission.

This year, San Diego will act as the Parent Chapter for Rocky Mountain. During this year, well support Rocky Mountain as it develops its Board of Directors and grows its membership. Right now, were looking for Rocky Mountain chapter members to fill key positions on the board, including: an Ambassador (acting President), treasurer, membership, programs, and more.This is a unique opportunity to get involved and have a direct impact on creating a thriving and exciting WJA chapter. For more information, contact Dana Meyer-Maxwell at dana@mmgoldsmith.com

New Member: Rocky Mountain Chapter Hilary Halstead Scott Halstead Bead, Inc., Vice-President www.HalsteadBead.com

June 2010 News San Diego 11

WJA Member reports + Lisa Baker

Top Left: Necklace with black organza ribbon and hammered gold plated link. Reversible resin cube contains image by Chobunsai Eishi, Tomkiawa Otami of the Matsubaya, c. 1800 Top Right: Necklace with silver plated chain and freshwater pearls. Reversible resin cube with image by William Bouguereau, The Young Shepherdess, 1885 Left: Adjustable silver plated ring base with image by Gustav Klimt, The Virgin, 1913

Lisa Bakers Passion for Art

Since graduating with a BA in Fine Art from Cal. State Long Beach, Lisa Baker has continued her studies in art history. Her jewelry line, Lisa Confetti, is based upon these studies. Baker has worked as an arts administrator at the LA County Museum of Art, and at the Spoleto Festival USA, an internationally acclaimed performing arts event in Charleston, South Carolina. In September 2007, Lisa was inspired to launch her jewelry line when she discovered a tiny jewelry shop in Venice, Italy, and bought a bracelet from the shop owner, who had designed and crafted Venetian glass jewelry. Lisa Confetti incorporates stone beads, freshwater pearls and plated metals with images of historic masterpiece paintings encased in resin. The collection is sold online at lisaconfetti. com and in womens clothing boutiques, crafts galleries and museum stores.

Lisa recently had her largest sale to date. Windstar Cruises purchased the Lisa Confetti Madonna Collection for their ships sailing in the Mediterranean. The Madonna Collection incorporates iconic images of the Madonna and Child into jewelry.
CONTACT INFORMATION Lisa Confetti, Post Office Box 3568 San Diego, CA 92163 619-795-0437 619-501-2700 FAX lisa@lisaconfetti.com

www.lisaconfetti.com
Top: Necklace with gold filled chain and freshwater pearl. Reversible resin cube with image by Andrea del Sarto, Madonna of the Harpies, 1517 Bottom: Adjustable silver plated ring base with Byzantine image of Madonna with Child, 16th century

12 News San Diego June 2010

Womens Jewelry Association San Diego Chapter

San Diego Chapter

WJA Member reports + Allison Neumann

Allison studied jewelry fabrication and manufacturing with Jay Whaley of Whaley Studios in San Diego and is a graduate of GIA in Applied Jewelry Arts. Her pieces are carried at Capricorn Boutique in La Jolla, and she is the most recent addition to The Glashaus, an artist collective located in downtown San Diegos Barrio Logan neighborhood. Her upcoming body of work, The Montana Sapphire Project, is set to launch September 2010, and will be showcased at the boutique and studio locations. The focus of the project are sapphires from a private collection accumulated over 20 years. Also set for 2010, furniture and jewelry collaboration with furniture designer at Glashaus, Jamie Huffman of Surface. www.allisonneumann.com, allisonneumann@me.com. 858.717.2803, The Glashaus, 1815-b Main St., San Diego, CA 92113
Left: Sterling Silver with Garnet. Also available in 18K Gold with Diamond

*HAPPY HOUR Last Thursday

Every last Thursday of the month, WJA San Diego will have a Happy Hour at different locations throughout the county. Heres how it works: each one of our board members have volunteered to lead a Last Thursday Happy Hour. That means the leader picks the location and is at the venue at 6:30pm. Participants buy their own food and drinks. These get-togethers provide an opportunity to meet in a casual environment, invite guests, and socialize. So, whatever you do this year, dont forget: it is every last Thursday! Visit our website for more intormation or contact any of our board members (listed on page 13). We will be happy to accompany and introduce you to our energetic and friendly members.

pSan
President Dana Meyer-Maxwell Partner Mark Maxwell Designer/Goldsmith www.mmgoldsmith.com dana@mmgoldsmith.com Immediate Past President Alexandra Hart Metals artist-designer goldsmith www.alexandrahart.com info@alexandrahart.com President-Elect Kate Donovan, G.G. Manager, Sales Gemological Institute of America katedonovan14@hotmail.com

Diego Chapter Board of Directors 2010o

Treasurer Sheila Netti Designer/Metalsmith Netti Designs www.nettidesigns.com sheila@nettidesigns.com Secretary / Communications Chair Judy Colbert Manager of Visual Resources Gemological Institute of America jcolbert@gia.edu Marketing Co-Chairs Kimberly Vagner In-Kind Gifts Coordinator Gemological Institute of America kimberly.vagner@gia.edu Dani Oliver Marketing Manager danicaoliver@gmail.com Programs Co-Chairs Rose McKenna Manager, Alumni Relations Gemological Institute of America rose.lonidiere@gmail.com Natalie Zacharia Freelance Writer / Luxury Industry natalie.zacharia@gmail.com Membership Co-Chairs Rebecca Boyajian, G.G.,A.J.P. Roberto Coin Boutique rebecca@coinusa.com Lisa Baker Owner/ Lisa Confetti www.lisaconfetti.com lisa@lisaconfetti.com Publicity Chair Jessica Sachariason Public Relations Coordinator Gemological Institute of America jessicasach@gmail.com Newsletter Chair Orasa Weldon Photographer Graphic Designer owdesign1@mac.com Scholarship and Grants Co-Chairs Lisa Slovis Mandel Lisa Slovis Metalsmithing lisa@lisaslovis.com Jayne Schultz Owner JayStone jayneschultz.w@gmail.com

June 2010 News San Diego 13