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HEMR| FLdCHERE
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Under the general edi tors hi p of
V E R A R . WE B S T E R
GLEM PRt55 MtV YRX
Western Publ i shi ng Company, I nc.
Raci ne, Wi scons i n
FORE WORD
I have tasted nearl y al l the wi nes descr i bed i n t hi s
book at one ti me or another . Some are, al as, ei t her
geogr aphi cal l y or economi cal l y beyond my reach. For
these I have based my reporti ng on the opi ni on of
fri ends and experts whose wine sense and di scri mi nat
i ng pal ates I trust compl etel y.
Si nce, i n t he fnal anal ysi s, a wi ne i s eval uated sub
jecti vely, I h ave tried t o refrai n fr om maki ng stat ements
refecti ng my very personal l i kes and di s l i kes, l eavi ng
the ul t i mate j udgement of any wi n e t o you, dear
reader and fel l ow-adventurer i nto t he del i ghtful wor l d
of wi ne. A votre sante!
H. F.
Copyr i ght G 1973 by Western Publ ish i ng Company, Inc. Al l r i ghts reserved,
i ncl udi ng ri ghts of reproduct i on and use i n any form or by any means, i nc l ud
i ng the maki ng of copi es by any photo process, or by any el ectroni c or mec hani
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permission in wr i t i ng is obtai ned from t he copyri g ht propri etor. Produced in the
U.S.A. Publ ished by Gol den Press, New York, N. Y. l i brary of Cong ress Cata l og
Card Numbe" 72-85934.
C ONT E NT S
WINE MAKING
THE GRAPE Maj or Vari eti es The Grape Berry e e e e e e
BASI C STEPS TO WI NE MAKI NG Harvest i ng Crus hi ng
Sul f ur i ng Pres s i ng Fermentat i on Cl ar i f i cat i on
Agi ng o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o
THE WINE MAKERS ............................... o
UNI TED STATES Cal i forni a and i ts Wi ne Di st ri ct s Readi ng
a Cal i f or ni a L abel New York Other Stal es . . . . . . .
FRANCE Bordeaux Burgu n dy Al sace Provence The
Rhone Vol l ey Champagne The L oi r e and Ot her Regi ons
GERMANY Ger man Wi ne Laws L abel s The Great
Regi ons o o o o o o o o o o o o e o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o
LUXEMBOURG o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o
I TALY Gover nment Control s Wi nes and Wi ne Regi ons . .
SPAI N Pl ace- names Sherry The Scl era System . . . . .
PORTUGAL Regi onal Wi nes Port o o o o o o o o
GREECE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . o
AUSTRAL I A = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
CANADA o o o o o o o o o o o o o o
HUNGARY o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o
AUSTRI A o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o
YUGOSLAVI A o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o
THE SOUTHERN NEI GHBORS Mexi co Argent i na Chi l e
6
8
1 6
26
28
52
72
77
78
82
86
89
90
94
96
98
99
Brazi l Uruguay o o o o o o o o o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 00
e o AND MORE DI STANT NEI GHBORS Russi a North Afri ca
Sout h Afri ca Japan o o o o o o o o o - o o o o o o o o o o o + o + 1 04
ENJOYING WINE e e e e e . e e . e e e e e e e e e e . . e . . e . . e . . 1 06
SHOPPI NG, STORI NG, AND SERVI NG - 1 07
THE WI NET ASTI NG PARTY o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 8
WI NI NG AND DI NI NG OUT o o o o o o o 1 22
WI NE AND WEDDI NGS o o o o o - 1 24
WI NE AND FOOD Appeti zers Soups Si mpl e Di s hes
Beef Lamb Veal Fresh Pork Ham Fowl
Seafood Game Sal ads Desserts Cheese Frui t s
Nut s Wi ne Punches Buffets Pi cni cs o . . . . . . . . . 1 26
WI NERI ES AND MUSEUMS o o o o o o o o o o o o o 1 42
WINE LANGUAGE o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o 1 48
GLOSSARY o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o . . . . . 1 50
SUGGESTED READI NG . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 54
ACKNOWL EDGMENTS - o o o o o o o o o . . . . . . 1 55
I NDEX o o o o o o o o o o o o o o 1 56
INTRODUCTION
I n t he fortun ate regi ons of t he worl d where favorabl e
conditi ons for grape cul tivati on exi st, generati on s of
men and women have enj oyed wi ne, wi thout fuss or
posturi ng, as part of thei r dai l y meal s . I n the countri es
of these regi ons wi ne i s consi dered a food.
Most of t he wi ne produced t hroughout the worl d i s
a good, pl ai n, and rel ativel y i nexpensi ve beverage,
much l ike the pl ai n food i t usual l y accompani es so
agreeabl y. Fancy, premi um wi nes are rarer, s omewhat
m<re expensive, and trul y great wi nes ar e rarest, and
most expensi ve, dr unk on speci al occasi ons by those
who can aford i t.
The wor l d' s wi ne regi ons are l ocated, wi t h few except i ons, wi th i n
t he nar row c l i mate bands s hown i n t he map bel ow, where t he aver
age annual temperature i s between 50 and 68 Fahrenhei t .
Taste preferences difer from one regi on to another,
and from i ndi vi dual to i n divi dual , i n wi ne as wel l a s
food. Nature, ai ded by man, has met thi s chal l enge wi th
a profusi on of gr ape vari eti es. Cl i mate, soi l , and other
vari abl es cause further di ferences i n t he taste char
acteri sti cs of t he wi ne produced by any gi ven grape,
provi di ng an al most i nfni te range of taste sensati ons.
Some wi nes are bi g and robust, l i ke I tal y' s B ar ol o;
some are l i ght and del i cate, l i ke t he Chenin Blanc of
Cal i for ni a; some are sweet, and some are austerel y
dry. I n between these extremes l i es a whol e range of
del i ghtful taste gradati ons, provi di ng a choi ce for
every pal at e' s sati sfacti on and preference, and bl end
i ng wi t h t he vari eti es of t he worl d' s foods.
A f ew regi ons s uccessfu l l y manage t o grow wi ne grapes beyond
t he i deal c l i mat e bands i n each cont i nent because of speci al
weat her condi t i ons, or by pl ant i ng resi stant vari et i es of vi nes .
The evi dence of man' s di scovery of wi ne l i es sti l l
buri ed i n some dar k antedi l uvi an strata, but archeol o
gi sts have unearthed fossi l i zed grapes l eaves, seeds,
and other fragments showi ng that a grape vi ne, cl osel y
resembl i ng today' s speci es, awaited man' s comi ng.
We can sur mi se that t he great di scovery was made
short l y after man l earned t o make contai ners that
woul d hol d l i qui ds safel y.
Hi stori cal l y there i s ampl e evi dence of the anci ent
cul tures' appreci ati on of wi ne. The E gypti ans depi cted
scenes of viti cul ture and wi ne maki ng in friezes dati ng
back t o ci rca 2,500 BC. The Bi bl e i s repl ete with ref
erences to wi ne, wi ne maki ng, and wi ne dr i nki ng.
THE GREEKS of Homer' s ti me had mastered t he art
of maki ng non- porous pott ery whi ch enabl ed t hem to
age thei r wi nes and shi p t hem to di stant pl aces s uch
as E gypt whi ch had by then l ost the art of wi ne maki ng.
6
THE ROMANS were qui ck to l earn from the Greeks,
and under the Pax Romano vineyards fouri shed from
I t al y to E ngl and. Pl i ny, t he Roman natural i st, descri bed
9 1 grape vari eti es and ove' r 50 wi nes .
THE GAULS were beer dri nkers but soon l earned to
pref er wi ne. Good coopers, t hey used thei r barrel s
when they swi tched from brewi ng to wi ne maki ng. T he
gal l i c wi nes became so famous that, in a ft of parochi al
pique, the emperor Domi ti an decreed t hat t hei r vi nes
were t o be uprooted. The Gaul s revol ted, and s i nce
no occupyi ng Roman real l y wanted to enf orce t he
decree, the vi nes conti nued t o fouri s h.
IN THE DARK AGES, f ol l owi ng t he fal l of R ome, t he
monasti c orders establ i shed t he great tradi ti ons of
wi ne maki ng sti l l uphel d to t hi s day. Many of t he
fnest vi neyards were started by t he monks, parti cu
l arl y the Cart husi ans, and have conti nued t o produce
some of the worl d' s fnest wi nes.
THE GRAPE
"Good wine begins with good grapes," is a vintner's
maxi m backed up by t he fact t hat a wi ne of superior
quality has yet to be made from inferior grapes. There
are t housands of grape varieti es but t he limited number
of high quality grapes cultivated for t he fnest wines
are all derived from t he genetic stock of t he old-world
speci es, Vitis vinifera, except for some outstanding
varieti es of Vitis /abrusca in Nort h Ameri ca.
The hybri ds are mostly man-made varieties, ceated
as a countermeasure to t he dread Phylloxera, a burrow
ing plant louse whi ch all but wi ped out vinifera vine
yards all over t he world in the late 1800's. The /abrusca
species are resistant to t his plague. Almost all hi gh
quality grapes grown today, in any of t he world's wine
regions, are grafts of V. vinifera on disease-resi stant
root stock, or hybri ds. Agricult ural research stations
are improving and developing disease-resistant stock.
8
MAJOR VARIETIES of grapes, both pure stocks and
hybrids, are shown here and on the pages following,
with a listing of some of the wines made from them.
Only a few can be shown, or li sted, because of space
limitations, and their order has no bearing on their
relative quality, i mportance, or popularity.
Note that some grapes produce both red and white
wines, and someti mes roses as well. Some produce gen
eric wines, some varietals, and some both. There is a
strong trend in wine making today toward i ncreased
production of high-quality varietals, particularly in
California and the Eastern United States.
PI NOT CHARDONNAY. One of
the greot whi te wi ne g rapes. I n
France i t produces t he famed
Chabl i s, Poui l l y-Fui sse, Corton
Charl emagne, Montrachet and
other great white Burgundi es, as
wel l as Champagne. I n New
York and Cal i forni a i t i s usual l y
l abel ed as a varietal , a nd some
goes i nto the fnest U.S. cham
pagnes. L i ke most of the fne va
ri eti es, it has a smal l yiel d,
maki ng the wi ne expensi ve.
PI NOT NOI R. Thi s i s the grape
of the great red Burgundi es, t he
Romanee-Conti, Carton, Cham
berl i n, Pom mard, Nui ts-Sai nt
Georges, etc. , the excel l ent Cal i
fornia varietal s and the fnest
Cal i forni a Burgundi es. I t al sa
produces top qual ity roses and
whi tes, and a maj or portion of
French Champagnes. Thi s l ow
yiel d grape i s pl anted in t he
Loi re Val l ey, Al sace, Germany,
and many scattered l ocations
throughout the worl d.
9
CABERNET SAUVI GNON. The
best and most wi despread of
the Cabernet variety, respon
sible for the fnest Medocs ond
the best cl arets of Cal i forni a,
Australia, and many other re
gi ons of the world. CABERNET
FRANC I not shown), a close rel
ative, makes a softer wi ne. I I is
not yet planted i n the U.S. but
enjoys a slowly growi ng popu
l arity i n the Medoc, Graves, St.
Emi li on, and Pomerol regi ons,
and in the Chi non reds and
roses of t he Loire.
RI ESLI NG grapes produce the
most di sti nctive white wi nes of
the Rhei ngau, Mosel l e, and Al
sace. II i s a wi del y grown vari
ety i n s uch diferent c l i mates os
Austral i a, Austri a, Chi l e, Cali
forn i a, New York and Switzer
l and. 'he name often appears
on the l abel , and in Cal i forni a
where the SYLVANER variety
can, for s
O
me obscure reason,
be l egally cal l ed Riesl i ng, the
name given the true vari ety i s
JOHANNI SBERG RI ESLI NG to
diferentiate i t from i mitati ons.
SAUVI GNON, al so called Sau
vi gnon Bl anc, a superb white
wine grape, i s the major i n
gredient of the best Graves,
and a consti tuent of Sauternes
with Semi l l on and Muscadel l e.
I I yi el ds the Loire' s Poui l ly
Fume, Soncerre, and Qui ncy. I n
Cal i forni a' s North Coastal Re
gi on i t makes a ful ler-bodied
wine than its French rel atives,
but retai ns the fragrant bouquet
and frui ted favor. I ts qual ity is
surpassed onl y by the Chardon
nay and the true Ri esl i ng.
10
GRENACHE. A good quali ty,
hi gh-yiel d sweet grape produc
i ng wi nes hi gh i n al cohol wi th
O di sti ncti ve bouquet. I n France
i ts best wi nes are the rases of
Tavel and t he Rhone. I t i s
blended i n the Choteauneuf - du
Pape, and wi th O speci al vi ni f
cati on i s made i nto t he heavy,
sweet Banyul s. In Cal i forni a it
makes excel l ent roses, usual l y
l abeled vari etal l y, and su
perior grades of Port. I t i s
pl anted extensivel y i n the
Ri oj a di strict of northern Spai n.
BACO NO. 1 . A French hybri d
i zer, Mauri ce Boco, has gi ven hi s
name, fol l owed by nu meral s and
letters to a number of hi s
creations. Baco No. 1 i s bei ng
successful l y grown i n the U. S.
Northeast, produci ng a very
pal atable, dark and robust red
wi ne. I t is us ual l y l abel ed as
"'Boca Nai r." I t i s quite papul ar
wi th home wi ne makers and
growers. I n France BACO NO.
22A (not shown!, a crass of Fol ie
Bl anche and Noah, i s now used
i n maki ng Armagnac brandy.
PALOMI NO, or Gol den Chas
sel as as i t i s known in Cal i
forni a, i s one of t he fnest t abl e
grapes. I n Jerez it i s t he chi ef
consti tuent of Sherry, but el se
where i n Spai n i t i s used onl y
for lesser, l i ght wi nes. I n Cal i
forni a both l i ght tabl e wi nes and
hi gh- qual ity sherries are made
from i t. The wi ne has O del i cate
bouquet, but does not keep wel l
because of t h e l ow ac i d content.
Related varieties are the Gute
del of Germany and the Fen
dan! of Switzerl and.
1 1
O T H E R I M P O RTA NT W I N E G RAPE S
ALIGOT i s a Burgundi an whi te
wi ne grape of secondary qual ity
yi eldi ng an ordi nary but qui te
agreeabl e vin de carafe. It i s
usually overpri ced i n the U.S.
BARBERA i s a red wi ne grape
of Pi edmont, cultivated to some
extent i n Cal i forni a. There, as
wel l as i n i t s nati ve I tal y, i t
makes a deep-col ored, robust,
f ul l -bodi ed wi ne which i s at
its best when quite young.
CATAWBA, a li ght-red g rape,
probabl y an acci dental hybri d
of wi ld Ameri can vari eti es,
makes a white wi ne of pro
nounced labrusca favor. I t is
grown extensi vely i n the north
eastern Ameri can regi ons for
maki ng champagne.
CHENI N BLANC i s an excellent
white wi ne grape, al so known
as Pi neau de I a loi re, and i n
correctl y os Pi not Bl anc, or
Wh i te Pi not, as i t i s not a true
Pi not variety. I n t he French prov
i nces of Tourai ne and Anjou i t i s
the predomi nant grape, produc
i ng the Vouvray and Sau mur
wi nes. The earl y- mat uri ng Cal i
forn i a vari etal i s a wi ne of great
fnesse and fne favor.
CLAI REnE. Thi s good quality
white wine grape i s wi dely
grawn in the south of France,
and to a lesser degree i n Cal i
forni a. Al though white, i t i s
bl ended i nt o red Chateau neuf
du-Pape, and i n roses of Tavel;
a del i ghtful transformati on.
1 2
DELAWARE is probably an
other acci dental l abrusca hybri d.
I t makes a fresh, pal e, whi te
wi ne wi th good bal ance and
much l ess oppressi ve favor
than other lobrusca wi nes. It
is much used in Eastern U. S.
champagnes, and i n t he best
tabl e wi nes of New York State,
Ohi o, and Canada.
ELVI RA i s a native labrusca
ripari a cross di s covered toward
the end of the ni neteenth cen
ury i n Mi s souri . The si zable
plant i ngs in the Fi nger lakes
Regi on of New York produce a
fresh-tast i ng, very pl easant wh i te
wi ne af pronounced foxy favor
but consi derable di sti nction.
FOLLE BLANCHE. Th is whi te
wi ne grape is al so known as
Pi cpoul and Gras Pl ant i n i ts
nat i ve France. There are a num
ber of pl ant i ngs of t hi s variety
in northern Cal i for ni a. I t pro
duces a cl eantast i ng l i ght wi ne.
FURMI NT i s the famous fne
wh i te grape of Hu ngary, t he
pri nci pal i ngredient of t he re
nowned Tokay. I t produces other
fne Hungar i an wi nes and i s
bl ended i nto some German
wi nes .
GAMAY i s t he r ed gr ape of
the popul ar French Beauj ol ai s
and of t he fne Cal i forn i a "Go
may du Beaujol ai s, " whi ch i s
not to be confused wi t h an
ordi nary Cal i forni a wi ne of l es
ser qual i ty sol d as "Gamay. "
GEW0RZTRAMI NER. Thi s pi nk
i sh wh i te wi ne grape of the
Tra mi ner fa mi l y yi el ds a rat her
soft, very heavi l y perf umed and
spi cy wh i te wi ne i n Al sace,
where i t i s wi del y pl ant ed, and
i n Ger many an d luxembourg. I n
Cal i forni a t he wi ne retai ns al l
t he t r ue c haracteri sti cs but i s
somewhat l es s s pi cy t han i ts
Ol d Worl d counterpart.
GREEN HUNGARI AN i s a Cal i
forni a whi te wi ne grape of un
certai n ori gi n whi ch yi el ds a
pl easant , l i ght wi ne. Some of it
i s sol d u nder its vari etal name;
the bul k i s used i n bl endi ng.
MERLOT i s a fne r ed wi ne
gr ape used to gi ve softness
and f r ui t i ness to many Bor
deaux and Cal i f orni a c l arets.
I t i s sel dom vi ni fed al one, ex
cept i n parts of nort her n I t al y
where i t produces a soft , fra
grant and very pl easant wi ne.
NEBBI OLO. Thi s i s I t al y's out
standi ng red wi ne gr ape, re
sponsi bl e for the s u perb Barol o,
Barbaresca, and I nferno. When
f ul l y mat ured i ts f ul l - bodi ed
wi nes have great di st i nct i on.
NI AGARA. One of t he ol dest
Ameri can hybri ds, t hi s wh i te
wi ne grape i s pl anted c h i efy
i n t he Fi nger lakes Regi on of
New York and i n Canada. I t
makes a rather sweet, gol den
t abl e wi ne of pronoun ced fox i
ness, very agreeabl e Ia those
who apprec} ate t he fragrance.
PEDRO XI MENEZ. Thi s Spani s h
grape i s t hought to be t he
Rhi ne Val l ey' s Ri es l i ng brought
t o Spai n i n t he 1 6t h cent ury. I n
Mal aga a n d t he Sher ry count ry
it is vi ni fed di ferentl y, produc
i ng t he best sweet ener for Sher
ry. I n Mant i l l a it is made i nto
a fne dry wi ne. A sweet vari ety
is dr unk strai ght as a l i queur.
1 3
SANGI OVESE. Thi s fne qual i ty
red wi ne grape of I tal y is the
pri nci pal (70%) const i t uent of
Chi ant i , and i n ot her regi ons of
I t al y it yi el ds a very good but
s horter-l i ved wi ne. I n t he t i ny
republ i c of San Mar i no i t i s
served and cons u med wi t h great
enjoyment. There are some
pl ant i ngs in Cal i forni a, but i t
i s not us ed i n t he Cal i forni a
Chi anti s.
SCUPPERNONG. Thi s i s a uni que
Amer i can vari ety, a Muscadine
grape of the sub-genus Rotundi
folia. I I i s c ul tivated excl usivel y
in t he Carol i nas for both tabl e
use and as a wi ne grape.
SEMILLON i s an excel l ent
white wi ne grape of southwest
ern France where i t i s widel y
pl anted, and of Cal i forni a to a
much s mal l er extent. It gives
best res ul ts when vi ni fed wi t h
anot her grape vari ety, parti cu
l arl y Sauvi gnon Bl anc such as
i n Graves and Sauternes. I I i s
general l y most s uccessful as a
sl i ght l y sweet wi ne; when dry
it has a tendency to bi llerness
especi al ly when grown i n warm
regi ons.
SYLVANER i s a very producti ve
premi u m whi te wi ne grope
grown extensi vel y i n such di f
ferent parts of the worl d as
Al sace, Austri a, Cal i forni a,
Chi l e, Germany, I tal y, luxem
bourg, and Switzerl and. The
wi nes i t g ives, us ual ly l abel ed
vari etal l y, are l i ght and pl eas
ant . For s ome strange r eason i t
can l egal l y be cal l ed "Ri esl i ng"
i n Cal i forni a.
1 4
SYRAH, al s o s pel l ed Si roh, is
an excel l ent vari ety of red
wi ne grape grown exten si vel y
i n t he Rhone Val l ey. I t is t he
grape of t he renowned Her
mi tage, and is one of t he t hi r
teen wi nes bl ended i nto Cho
leauneuf- du- Pape. Syrah is al so
grown in Austral i a, Cal i for ni a,
Sout h Afri ca, and Switzerl and.
Thi s s uperi or qual ity grape
shoul d not be confused wi t h
PETI T SYRAH whi ch makes O
very sati sfactory, f ul l -bodi ed
wi ne of l ess di s t i nct i on. I n
Cal i forni a s ome vi nt ners have
made excel l ent vari etal s wi th
Peti t Syrah, but most of i f i s
bl ended i nto "Burgu n dy."
TREBBI ANO i s on I t al i an whi te
wi ne grape of many names,
produci ng a pal e, dry wi ne.
I n France i t i s cal l ed Ugni Bl anc
(see below) and s ome of i t is
grown in Cal i forni a. In I t al y
it i s a consti tuent of Whi te
Chiant i , and when bl ended wi th
Mal vasi a it yi el ds t he sweet
Orvieto, and Yi n Santo.
UGNI BLANC (see above) has
s t i l l another name i n Fra nce, St.
E
mi l i on. Wi del y pl anted i n t he
s out h of France, i t s bes t wi ne
i s t hat of Cassi s. I n Cal i fornia
it fnds i ts way i nto bl ends.
ZI NFANDEL. Thi s red wi ne
grape of u nderler mi ned ori gin
is t he most ext ensi vel y pl ant ed
vari ety i n Cal i for ni a. I I i s de
servedl y a very popul ar wi ne,
fresh and pl easant wi t h a di s
t i ncti ve "berry" favor, t he
Ameri can counterpart to France's
Beaujol ai s. I I is wi del y bl ended.
THE GRAPE BERRY
VITIS VINIFERA
VITIS LABRUSCA
LUl
LYcK
THE GRAPE BERRY is ful l of the j ui ce and pul p con
tai ni ng the sugars, aci ds, tanni ns, aromati c compounds,
mi neral s and even vi tami ns, al l gi vi ng wi ne i t s uni que
character and qual i ty. On the ski n i s a waxy l ayer,
the frosty " bl oom, " whose functi on i s to trap ai rborne
yeasts and enzymes res ponsi bl e for fermentati on .
To make wi ne, al l pr i mitive man had to do was to
break the ski ns al l owi ng t he wi. l d yeasts to contact t he
sugary j ui ce. I t was Mot her Natur e' s Sel f- Packaged I n
stant Mi x. Fermentati on took pl ace and after a few
days he coul d down a heady l i qui d unl i ke anythi ng he
had ever tasted. Overi ndul gence resul ted i n t he condi
ti on known as " Stoned i n t he Bronze Age. "
Man t hen l earned t o strai n t he unwanted s k i ns , pul p,
seeds, and anythi ng el se that may have fal l en i n hi s
fermentati on pot, obtai ni ng a sl i ghtl y t ur bi d but more
sati sfyi ng beverage. Later he mastered t he art of stor
i ng it and, by tri al and error, i mproved i t unti l it
reached t he degree of excel l ence where poets woul d
si ng i t s prai ses. These refnements took centuri es to
achi eve, and the search for perfecti on conti nues to
thi s day.
1 5
THE BASIC STEPS TO WINE MAKING
The basi c steps i n t he process of tran sfqr mi ng grapes
i nto wi ne are essent i al l y the s ame i n every wi ne- maki ng
reg i on of the worl d.
The grapes are harvested at a gi ven t i me an d must
arri ve qui ckl y and i n good condi ti on at the wi nery.
They are cr ushed, thei r j ui ce i s fer mented, t he fer
mented j ui ce i s pressed, sedi me nt i s removed, the
cl ari fed wi ne i s rested, aged, and event ual l y bottl ed.
Whi l e the above appl ies to the maki ng of al l sti l l
table wi nes, there are other steps i n maki ng speci al
wi nes , such as Champagne, spar kl i ng wi nes , s herry,
and othe r forti fed wi nes.
Techni ques and equi pment for t hese basi c opera
ti ons can, and do, vary from regi on to regi on, and
from vi ntner t o vi ntner . Some appl y t he l atest tech
nol ogi cal advances i n methods and use sophi sti cated
equi pment; others cl i ng to t i me- honored procedures
an d equi pme nt . Both can, an d do, make good wi ne.
1 6
|
|A
\------=
HOW WINE IS MADE
"MUS T" FOR WHITE WINE MAY BE DRAWN
OFF BUT Will BE SEPARATED FROM SKINS AND
SEEDS BY PRESSING BEFORE FERMENTING.
FkE55
lARGE SOliDS
REMOVED
The red and gol d l eaves on the
vi nes ( at ri ght) si gnal t he ap
proach of a busy harvest ti me
i n t hi s Cal i forni a vi neyard.
THE SCI ENTI FI C APPROACH to
wi ne maki ng, l eavened wi t h
s ome i nheri t ed i nt ui ti ve tradi
t i onal met hods i s typi cal l y Amer
i can. The c ombi nat i on is bei ng
adopted gr adual l y i n many at h
er parts af the wor l d as new
met hods of vi t i cul t ure and vi ni
c ul ture wi t h new s ophi sti cated
equi pment reach the f urthest
corners of t he gl obe.
HARVESTING begi ns when the vi neyardi st deter mi nes
that t he grapes have reached t he preci se ri peness for
the type of wi ne to be made. He makes per i odi c l ab
oratory tests for sugar contents and aci dity as wel l as
t he tradi t i onal checks wi th si ght, feel , an d tast e dur
i ng t he growi ng season. The vi ne and i ts frui t are con
st ant l y under hi s watchful eye.
!CLARIFICATION CONTINUES!
PI CKI NG the grapes is sti l l very
muc h af O hand operati on i n
most of the worl d' s vi neyards.
The vari et i es from whi ch t he
fnest wi nes are made ore us
ual l y t hi n s ki n ned and mus t nat
be brui sed or broken before
t hey arri ve at t he crushers. The
wor k of a grape pi cker requi res
speed, a certai n a mount of
manual dexteri ty, and a strong
back.
Large n u mbers of pi ckers are
necessary O do t he j ob qui ckl y,
for a rel at i vel y s hort peri od of
empl oyment. The l abor probl em,
wi t h i ts attendi ng economi c com
pl exi t i es, has become i nc reas
i ngl y di fcul t to sol ve where
great i ndust ri al growth and
u rban i zati on are on t he ri se.

MECHANI CAL HARVESTERS may
be part of t he sol uti on. These
mac hi nes may be in common use
i n t he near fut ure, mechani zi ng
t he pi cki ng as tractors mechan
i zed t he pl owi ng and c ul t ivat
ing. A number of harvesters are
now in u se in New York State
and Cal i f or ni a.
The machi ne requi res a spe
ci al spaci ng of t he r ows of vi nes
and a di fer ent s upporti ng trel
l i s. The newl y pl anted vi neyards
i n Cal i for ni a, New York, and
other parts of t he Uni ted Stales
are bei ng l ai d out to accommo
date the g i ant machi nes .
The mechani cal harvesters
seen from t he front and rear in
the pi ctures at l eft ore operat i ng
i n a Tayl or vi neyard. The ber
ri es

are gent l y shaken l oose

from t he vi ne and conveyed di
rectl y t o a tractor- drawn gon
dol a i n t he adj oi ni ng row .
TRANSPORTI NG the grapes to
t he crusher requi res a strong
back and s ure foot on the very
steep sl opes of some h i l l s i de
vi neyards , s uc h as t hos e of t he
Rhei ngau an d t he Rhone.
The pi cker' s harvest i s col
l ected i n boc k-bas kets and car
ri ed to l evel ground where it
is transferred to ani mal - drown
carts. Where the ground is l evel
and modern tech nol ogy ap
pl i ed, tractor-drown gondol as
ci rcul ate t hrough t he rows col
l ect i ng t he ac c umul at i on.
I NSPECTI ON t akes pl ace a t t he
wi nery. The gropes or e wei ghed,
and on on- t he- spot t es t of thei r
s ugar content i s t oken t o de
termi ne t he pri ce for those sup
pl i ed by outsi de vi neyards. The
gropes ore t hen unl oaded,
was hed, and conveyed to a
stemmer, a mac hi ne whi ch can
separate 20 t ons of berr i es from
t hei r stems i n one hour. The
stems are pu l veri zed and pl owed
i nto t he vi neyard soi l as mul c h
and organi c fert i l i zer.
THE I DEAL LOCATI ON for a
wi nery is on a hi l l si de, wi t h
t he grapes ar ri vi ng at t he hi gh
est l evel , and t he presses and
f er ment i ng ta nks on successi ve
l evel s bel ow. The processi ng of
the grapes and t hei r j u i ce con
t hen be efected, or ai ded by
gravity, avoi di ng pumpi ng as
much as poss i bl e.
Where t he l and i s too fat t o
per mi t t he us e of gravity as a
transport i ng force, bel t convey
ors are used to move t he gropes,
and pumps to move t he j u i ce
from t he presses to t he tanks .
CRUSHI NG fol l ows t he r emoval of st ems , or i s done
s i mul t aneousl y i n a crus her-stemmer . Cr ushi ng convert s
t he berri es i nto a pul py mass cal l ed " must. "
SULFURI NG, t he n ext step, consi st ed i n t he ol d method
of bur ni ng sul fur candl es i n t he casks to produce sul fur
di oxi de. Today t he st er i l i zi ng gas i s added to the must
in preci se amounts from metal cyl i nder s. Sul fur di oxi de
control s unwanted mi croorgani sms, i n hi bi ts t he brown
i ng efect of enzymes, and retards oxi dati on .
PRESSI NG extracts t he j ui ce from t he grapes. Many
types of presses are used, from t he fami l i ar an ci ent
s l otted wooden basket wi t h screw-operated pi ston t o
i ngeni ous equi pment such as t he Wi l l mes bl adder press,
efectivel y separati ng t he j ui ce from the sol i ds, cal l ed
" pomace, " consi st i ng mai nl y of ski ns, seeds, and pul p.
Thi s press, whose sl otted s i des ar e too s mal l t o pass s ki ns and
seeds, contai ns an ai r- i nfatabl e r ubber bag whi ch squeezes t he
must agai ns t t he s i des . The j u i ce i s drai ned of at t he bott om an d
t he dry pomace expel l ed before t h e operati on i s repeated.
RED WI NE deri ves i ts col or from
t he grope s ki ns whose pi gment s
gradual l y di ssol ve i nto t he fer
ment i ng must . Ot her desi rabl e
characteri st i cs of red wi ne are
deri ved from t he ot her sol i ds.
FOR WHI TE WI NE to be pr o
duced t he j u i ce mus t be sep
arated from t he pomace before
fermentati on by pres s i ng. Th i s
avoi ds col or and taste charac
terist i cs unwant ed i n wh i te wi ne.
Onl y t he j ui c e i s ferment ed.
SEPARATI ON of fuid from sol
i ds occurs dur i ng t he fermenla
ti an of red wi ne. I t i s possi bl e
to drai n of a bout 2/Jrds of t he
wi ne from settl i ng tan ks. Thi s
port i on i s cal l ed "free-run" as
apposed to "press-run," when
t he rema1n1ng porti on i s
pressed. The end por t i on of t he
press i ng i s l ess des i rabl e and
may be sol d as l ower grade
wi ne, di st i l l ed far i ts al cohol ,
or used i n bl endi ng.
Tradi t i onal oak open-top f er men
tati on tan k s i n us e at the Pl eas
ant Val l ey Wi ne Company, New
York (above}.
The newest i n j acketed stai nl ess
steel tan ks (left). I n t he favor
abl e c l i mates of Aust ral i a and
Cal i forni a, some vi nt ners i ns tal l
t he tan ks outdoors.
Gi ant g l ass-l i ned st eel tan ks ,
eac h hol di ng 1 00,000 gal l ons of
wi ne, i n us e at t he Tayl or wi n
ery, New York (be/awl.
FERMENTATI ON becomes qui te acti ve wi t hi n about 1 2
hours a n d st ops aut omat i cal l y when pr acti cal l y al l t he
sugar has been converted t o al cohol , usual l y a max
i mum of 1 4 to 1 5 % al cohol by vol ume. I t can be
stopped by t he wi ne maker i n a number of ways.
For control l ed fer mentati on a sel ected wi ne yeast i s
added to t h e sul fured must and thoroughl y mi xed. H eat
i s generat ed duri ng fer mentati on but must not be
al l owed to reach a temperature sl owi ng t he yeast ' s ac
t i on to t he poi nt where fer mentati on stops. A "stuck"
fermentati on can be a real di saster. Smal l fermenta
ti on contai ners are l ess l i kel y to overheat than t he bi g
t an ks of t he l ar ge wi neri es. Cool i ng devi ces such as
heat exchangers and i mmersi on coi l s may be used t o
control t he heat and rat e of f ermentat i on .
FERMENTI NG TANKS, l ar ge or
s mal l , ar e fl l ed from ' to 3f
capaci ty to al l ow for expans i on
and t he ac c umul at i on of foam
caused by t he I orge vol ume of
carbon di oxi de gas pr oduced.
Speci al l y desi gned j acketed
stai nl ess steel tan ks wi th pre
ci se aut omat i c temperature con
t r oi s ore i n us e i n wor m r e
gi ons . El sewher e di ferent meth
ods are used to cont rol t he rate
and heat of f er mentat i on. Pres
suri zed f er mentors are favored
i n Germa ny, whi l e i n Cham
pagn e an d Burgu n dy fer menta
t i on rooms are somet i mes heat ed
when t he weat her turns col d
dur i ng t he vi nt age season.
Fer ment i ng r ed wi ne i s ' pumped
over' t he hard crust of pomace
that has been pushed to t he t op
of t he f er mentat i on vat by t he
escapi ng carbon di oxi de gas.
Casks and wooden vats where
wi ne settl es for t he success i ve
racki ngs , an essent i al step i n
cl ari fcat i on. Si mi l ar contai ners,
as wel l as s mal l er barrel s are
used i n agi ng wi ne.
Fi lter pads are i nserted between
fl ter pl ates to catch s uspen ded
s edi ment, O st ep i n t he process
of cl ari fcation. Not al l wi nes
are fl tered; s ome are racked
several t i mes, and t hen bottl ed.
CLARI FI CATI ON begi ns after fer mentati on i s c om
pl et ed, or has been st opped. The pomace i s separated
from the t u rbi d fui d whi ch st ands unt i l a l ar ge port i on
of t he fne suspended mat eri al , most ly yeast cel l s, col
l ect s at t he bott om of t he set t l i ng t an k as lees.
RACKI NG now begi ns . I n t hi s
un i versal l y used process t he rel a
ti vel y cl ear wi ne i s careful l y
drawn of by si phon i n g or pu mp
i ng wi t hout sti r r i ng up t he l ees.
The process i s repeated several
ti mes, some vi nt ners goi ng no
fu rt her than rac ki ng to cl arify
t hei r wi ne. Cl ari ty, part i cul arly
i n Ameri ca, is a qual i ty c ri ter
i on. Some vi ntners fne and
fl ter as wel l O5 rock.
FI NI NG i s a t r adi t i onal method
of cl ari fyi ng wi n e t hrough t he
use of a vari ety of s ubsta nces
s uc h as egg wh i tes, i s i ngl ass,
casei n, and s peci al t ypes of
c l ays, notabl y Bentonite.
The fn i n g medi um is added
to t he previ ousl y racked wi ne.
It settl es to t he bottom carryi ng
wi t h it t he fn e s us pended par
t i cl es. Wi th cl oys, fl t er i ng i s
usual l y requ i r ed.
23
Thi s oul omol i c, hi gh- s peed bot
t l i ng machi ne fl l s more than o
dozen bottl es of once.
BOTTLI NG t he wi ne i s on al
most c ompl et el y oul omoled
pr ocess, not onl y i n t he h i gh l y
mechan i zed wi ner i es of t he U. S. ,
but in al l wi ne-growi ng reg i ons
of t he worl d. Thes e mach i nes
hove mode t he I orge wi nery
possi bl e s i nce fl l i n g, l abel ing
and pocki ng t he mi l l i ons of
bott l es by hand wou l d be on
endl ess t as k.
AGI NG RED WI NES begi ns at t he wi nery, but con
ti nues unti l t he cork i s pul l ed. Dependi ng on the type
and qual i t y, t he wi ne remai ns i n agi ng casks for a
peri od r angi ng from weeks to years. A rel at i vel y l arge
number of vi nt ners produci ng hi gh qual i t y r ed wi nes
age thei r bot t l ed stock an addi t i onal year or more.
Wi n ery workers pl ace decorati ve and protect i ve l ead foi l capsul es
on newl y- corked bott l es. label s wi l l be added, most l y by machi ne,
i n t hes e, t he l atter stages of proces s i ng t he wi ne to t he cons umer .
Mac h i n e l abel i ng, s ame hand l abel i ng, and t he fnal i n spect i on
I above left). Addi t i onal bottl e- ag i ng i n t he caref ul l y t emperat ure
cant ral l ed wi nery warehouse Iabove right!.
BOTTLE-AGI NG is a prerogat i ve of t he cons umer . A
fne red wi ne, pur chased as soon as avai l abl e and kept
i n a sui tabl e "wi ne cel l ar " shoul d i mprove and grow
i n val ue unt i l i t reaches ful l mat uri t y. A good wi ne
cel l ar i s wi thi n t he s cope of a modes t budget, and
buying wi ne for s t or age wi l l be di scussed l at er on .
Thi s Cal i for ni a vari et al wi ne, a Pi not Bl anc, reac h es i t s f n a l dest i
nat i on: graci n g t he host's tabl e. Properl y c h i l l ed, i t wi l l add t o t he
enj oyment of t he wi ne- poac hed shr i mp i t accompan i es.
We l i ve in an age where ol d-fashi oned craft s mans hi p
and i dent i fcati on of t he maker wi t h hi s product i s
r api dl y di sappear i ng from many professi ons . One whi ch
has , t o a l ar ge ext ent, avoi ded t hi s deper sonal i zati on
i s t hat of t he wi ne maker .
Throughout t he worl d wi ne makers conti nue to
i dent i fy wi t h t hei r del i ghtful product , proudl y s i gni ng
t hei r name t o t he l abel as an art i st si gns hi s canvas pro
clai mi ng : "Thi s i s my wor k. " More often t han not i t i s
a heredi tary professi on, parti cul arl y wi t h t he s mal l er
vi neyards, passed on from father t o sons, generati on
aft er generati on .
The i nfni t e vari et y of wi nes produced is al l based
on growi ng vi nes t o produce good cr ops of grapes,
ferment i ng t he j ui ce and ski l l ful l y nursi ng t he wi ne unt i l
i t i s ready t o bott l e for t he consumer .
I n t he cl i mate bel t s of bot h t he nort hern and sout her n
hemi spheres, where t he grape vi ne grows, t he wi n e
26
maker s' pri me concerns ar e t he weather and t he char
act er of t he soi l . They must sel ect t he gr ape t hat wi l l
mak e t he best wi ne under these two condi ti ons over
whi ch t hey have no efect ive control. The E u ropeans,
aft er cent uri es of tri al and er r or , have sett l ed on t he
vari et i es best sui t ed for each r egi on but i n t he r el a
t i vel y new wi ne wor l ds of Ameri ca and Aust r al i a t he
i deal combi nat i ons ar e now bei ng found wi th a st rong
assi st from i mproved sci enti fc vi ti cul tur al met hods.
Wi n e maker s' methods vary t o some extent from
regi on t o r egi on, but t he basi c procedur e r emai ns t he
same. The s hi ny n ew equi pment i s usual l y onl y a l abor
savi ng refnement of t he tradi ti onal devi ce. Centri fuges,
i on- exchanger s and rotati ng fer mentati on t an ks are
defni t el y i nnovati ons, but these ar e st i l l somewhat ex
peri ment al and not yet i n gener al use.
We s hal l see, i n t he pages t hat fol l ow, t he wi de
var i et i es of wi nes that ar e made, t hei r characteri sti cs,
and t he met hods used to mak e them.
27
T HE U NIT ED S TAT E S
The hi st ory of wi ne i n t h e New Wor l d begi ns wi t h t he
expl orers . There i s no evi dence t hat t he I ndi ans made
wi n e from any of t he wi l d gr apes growi ng i n t hei r terri
tor i es. The abundance of wi l d grapes found by Li ef
Eri cson and hi s s hi pmat es caused t hem to name t hei r
di scovery "Vi nel and, " but i t was l eft to t he l at er s ett l er s
t o cul t i vat e t he nat i ve vi ne and make t h e f rst Ameri can
wi ne from i t s ber r i es. Judgi ng from ol d recor ds of t he
col oni sts it was qui t e a poor and unrewar di ng bever
age. Col umbus brought hi s own wi ne, most l y Sher ry, i n
h i s s hi ps , and t h e mi ssi onary mon ks wh o accompani ed
t he l at er Conqui st adores br ought t h e European grape
vi ne wi t h them. They pl ant ed t hei r vi neyar ds as t hey
est abl i s hed t hei r chai n of mi ssi ons nort hward from
Mexi co al ong t he Pacifc coast.
The n ew sett l ers were eager t o make wi ne wherever
t hey est abl i s hed t hei r new homes , some wi t h the native
grape, and some wi th the transpl ant ed European vi nes .
I n t he Eas t t he har sh wi nt ers qui ckl y destroyed t he
i mport ed vi nes, unused t o t he ext reme col d, but t he
s ame Vitis vinifera fouri shed happi l y i n what i s now
Cal i forn i a. For many years t he set t l er s i n t he East and
Canada cul t i vat ed and i mproved t he nat ive Vitis
labrusca, t he onl y vi ne vari et y whi ch successful l y wi th
stood t he ri gors of t he cl i mat e. Wi l l i am Penn ' s gar
dener , J ohn Al exan der, is credi t ed wi t h t he ear l i est
Amer i can hybri d whi ch bears hi s name. His success in
creati ng a vi abl e vari ety capabl e of maki ng pal at
abl e wi ne - great l y encouraged others to devel op t he
E l vi r a, Concor d, Cat awba, Del aware, and a few ot her
earl y cross i ngs st i l l very popul ar i n Ohi o, New York
St at e and Canada.
28
Unt i l recentl y t he per capi ta wi ne cons umpti on i n
Amer i ca was so l ow t hat i t was not cons i dered a wi ne
dri n ki ng country. Over t he past few decades t he i n
crease has been s pectacul ar l y r api d, as evi denced by
the total quanti ty (i n round fgures) of commer ci al l y
pr oduced wi ne enteri ng U. S. di stri buti on channel s :
1 00 mi l l i on gal l ons in t he peri od j ust after WW I I
1 50 mi l l i on gal l ons ( aver age) t hrough t he 1 950' s
200 mi l l i on gal l ons ( aver age) t hrough t h e 1 960' s
250 mi l l i on gal l ons by 1 970
400 mi l l i on gal l ons ( esti mated) by 1 98 0
B y 1 969 t h e U. S. h ad r i sen to sevent h pl ace i n worl d
producti on of wi ne, wi th I tal y frst, France second, and
Spai n t hi r d . Wi t hi n t he n ext decade i t i s l i kel y t hat i t
w i l l move up another pl ace.
As cons umpti on i ncreases, Amer i cans ar e becomi ng
mor e knowl edgeabl e and di scri mi nati ng by for mi ng
tasti ng cl ubs and j oi ni ng s uch cons umer- ori ented groups
as t he Ameri can Wi ne Soci ety.
The f amous Amer i can author, Washi ngt on I rvi ng, was a great an d
di scri mi nat i ng con noi s s eur. Hi s wi ne cel l ar was f amed among hi s
f r i ends who were entertai n ed at hi s char mi ng home, 115un nysi de,"
on the banks of the Hudson Ri ver at I rvi ngt on, N.Y.
CALIFORNIA
Cal i for ni a' s ferti l e val l eys and sl opes provi de an i deal
setti n g for grape cul ti vati on . The cl i mate even per mi ts
open- ai r wi neri es i n some l ocati ons. Whi l e the gr ape
can be grown i n most of t he state' s 58 counti es, t he
pr i nci pal wi ne areas are : t he cool Nort her n Coastal
Regi on around San Franci sco, produci ng mostl y tabl e
wi nes; t he much war mer Great I nl and Val l ey Regi on
where, unt i l recentl y, the emphasi s was on forti fed
wi nes; and t he Southern Regi on, reach i ng eastward
from Los Angel es, produci ng wi nes whi ch compar e
favor abl y wi th t hose of t he French Mi di .
The hi story of Cal i forni a wi nes begi n s wi th t he chai n
of mi ssi ons and t hei r adj oi ni ng vi neyar ds, establ i shed
i n t he l atter part of t he 1 8th Century by t he Franci scan
monks. E vent ual l y t he chai n reached from t he Mexi can
bor der to Sonoma. Later, other European i mmi grants
brought t hei r wi ne maki ng s ki l l s and other vari eti es of
Vitis vinifera to the new l and of wi ne. Col onel Agoston
Har aszthy, i n 1 86 1 , brought some two hundred thou
san d vi n es and c utti ngs he col l ected from t he famous
E u ropean vi neyar ds. Hi s experi mental pl anti ngs made
a substant i al i mprovement t hroughout t he state and
deservedl y ear ned hi m the ti tl e of " Fat her of Cal i
for nia ' s moder n wi ne i ndustry. "
On t he map, opposite, t he pr i nci pal wi ne growi ng
regi ons are shown i n red . The Nort hern Coastal Regi on,
from Uki ah t o Sol edad, i s cool ed by Paci fc breezes.
The Gr eat I n l and Val l ey, cr adl ed between t he Coast
Range and the Si erra Nevada, extends from north of
Sacramento to Bakersfel d. The Sout her n Regi on, from
Ventura to E scondi do, i nc l udes the Los Angel es and
Cucamonga di stri cts .
30
N
`

`.
`
X
`
BERNARDINO
Oego
The mi d-ei ghteen hundreds saw t he foundi ng of
many wi neri es operati ng today, some under t he di rec
ti on of the founder ' s descendants. To name but a few:
Mi rassou, Al maden, and Paul Masson i n Santa Cl ara;
Schrams berg i n Cal i stoga; Charl es Krug, The Chri sti an
Brot hers, Beri nger Brothers, and I ngl enook i n Napa;
t he I tal i an- Swi ss Col ony, and Kor bel i n Sonoma; Wente,
and Concannon i n Al ameda; and i n 1 900, the foundi ng
of Beaul i eu Vi neyards i n Napa.
A number of near di sasters pl agued t he i ndustry;
frst, the phyl l oxera attacked the E uropean vi nes but
the di scovery t hat grafti ng the Vitis vinifera onto t he
nati ve Vitis labrusca rootstock avoi ded a compl ete dec
i mat i on; t hen two wi ne depressi ons caused by over
pl ant i ng and producti on of poor qual i ty wi ne severel y
damaged the reputati on of the wi nes. The crushi ng
bl ow came wi th the Ei ghteenth Amendment. Grape
producti on was mai ntai ned to provi de grapes for home
wi ne makers, sacramental wi ne producti on and a few
other uses sti l l permitted by t he "dry l aws . "
These unhappy t i mes for Cal i for ni a vi ntners ended
wi t h Repeal . Wor ki ng i n cooperat i on wit h bot h state
and feder al govern ments they rebui l t t hei r g reat i n
dustry on a sound basi s.
The Cal i forni a wi ne regi ons are far and away the
l argest producers i n the Uni ted States. Duri ng t he
earl y year s of the r ebi r t h, fol l owi ng Repeal , about 75%
of t he wi nes were dessert or forti fed wi nes, the remai n
i ng 25% divi ded between tabl e wi nes and spar kl i ng
wi nes. The proport i on has changed radi cal l y i n the
past few decades so that by 1 970 t abl e wi nes had out
stri pped dessert wi nes by more than 40 mi l l i on gal l ons.
Thi s i s a st rong i ndi cati on of t he ser i ous i nterest i n
Ameri can t abl e wi nes as an i ntegral part of a meal .
32
Unl i ke t hei r European count erparts most Cal i for ni a
wi neri es made as many di ferent types of wi nes as
possi bl e. The r es ul t was, too often, great vari ety at t he
cost of i ndi fer ent or i nferi or qual i ty. A reversal of t hi s
pol i cy i s gai ni ng popul ari ty, parti cul arl y wi t h some of
t he s mal l er growers who ar e l i mi ti n g t hei r pr oducti on t o
two or t hr ee outstandi ng wi nes i nstead of t he for mer
assort ment of a dozen or mor e types. The l ar ger
growers may be fol l owi n g s ui t as t hei r extensi ve recent
pl anti ngs of premi um vari eti es come to mat uri ty. The
most recent pl anti ngs, both l ar ge and s mal l , have been
chi efy of t he grapes whi ch produce t he super b vari etal s
such as Caber net Sauvi gnon. Careful sci ent i fc studi es
of soi l and cl i mate have enabl ed growers t o pl ant t he
premi um var i eti es bes t sui ted for t hei r l ocati on .
The n umber of hi gh qual i ty Cal i for ni a wi nes is i n
creasi ng every year, and t he amount produced i s al so
growi ng s i gni fcantl y. Whi l e some are di fcul t to obtai n
outsi de of Cal i for ni a, t he hope i s t hat i ncreased pro
ducti on wi l l remedy thi s si tuati on .
33
THE SONOMA-MENDOCINO, NAPA-SOLANO DIS
TRICTS rank high i n t he nu mber of bonded wi neri es,
produci ng vast quanti ti es of good standar d qual ity
t abl e wi n es, pri nci pal l y reds, and a number of top
qual i ty premi um wi nes and champagnes . A parti al
l i sti ng of i ts wi neri es fol l ows :
MAA vALLzY
WMWWWY
""'DUCID arO . .IAUUIU 'IMUAIO
AT ll11Oi0. NA"A COUHTT, Coi UI'I HIA
AL0186R+Nma
BEAULI EU VI NEYARD was
fou nded i n 1900 by Georges
de Latour. Al l i t s wi nes ar e
marketed under t he Beaulieu
Vineyard (8VJ l abel , and bear
the Napa Val l ey appel l at i on of
ori gi n. Al most all are estate bot
tled and the back l abel states
exactl y what grapes have been
used. The vari etals are usual l y
1 00% of t he grapes named.
Red Table Wines: Cabernet Sau
vi gnon and Cabernet Sau
vi gnon Private Reserve, Beau
mont Pi nel Nair, and Burgundy.
Whi te Table Wi nes: Beaufort
Pi nal Chardon nay, Beaucl ai r
Johan ni sberg Ri esl i ng, Dry and
Sweet Sauterne, Chabl i s, and
Ri esl i ng.
Rose Table Wines: Beaurose,
and Grenache Rose.
34
Sparkling Wines: Private Re
serve Champagne Brut, BY
Champagne Brut and Extra Dry,
and Rouge (Spar kl i ng Burgundy).
Aperitif and Dessert Wines:
Sherri es, Port, and Muscat de
Fronti gnan.
BERI NGER BROTHERS, I NC., was
founded in 1 876 by two broth
ers, Jacob and Frederi ck Beri n
ger. To i nsure u ni form character
and qual ity Beri nger wi nes are
wel l aged and bl ended. They
are now concentrat i ng on vari
etal s. Beri nger "Private Stock,"
i s t he feat ured brand.
Red Table Wines: Barenbl ut
(Blood of t he Bear), a house
speci al ty, Cabernet Sauvi gnon,
Grignol i no, Pi nal Noi r, Zi nfon
del , and Burgundy.
White Table Wi nes: Dry and
Sweet Sauterne, Johan n i sberg
Ri es l i ng, Grey Ri esl i ng, Cheni n
Bl anc, Sauvi gnon Bl anc, and
Chardonnay. Beri nger makes t he
usual aperi ti f and dessert wi nes,
and a speci al ty, Malvasi a Bi
anca. They al so feature Brut
Champagne, Pi n k Champagne,
Sparkl i ng Burgundy and Beri n
ger Bros. Brandy.
BUENA VI STA VI NEYARDS was
once t he home of Agoston Ha
raszt hy, the Hungari an nobl e-
man credi ted wi th starl i ng
modern Cal i for nia vi ti cul ture. I n
1 861 he col l ected over 300
grape vari eti es in Europe and
pl anted them her e. A seri es of
di sasters haunted the vi neyard
and i ts owners u nt i l 1 943 when
i t was revived, and now markets
its premi um wi nes under t he
Buena Vi sta l abel .
Red Table Wines: Cabernet Sau
vi gnan ( Estate Baffl ed), Pi nal
Nair, Zi nfandel (wh i ch g rew to
fame in t hi s vi neyard), and
Burgundy.
White Table Wines: Pi nal Char
donnay, Whi te Ri es l i ng Johan
ni sberg, Trami ner, Sylvaner,
Grey Ri esl i ng (al l Estate Baffl ed),
Sonoma Semi l l on, Green Hun
gar i an ( a speci al ly), Chabl i s,
and Vi ne Brook ( from Sylvaner
grapes). Two roses are made,
Rose Brook ( Estate Baffl ed, from
Cabernel Sauvi gnon grapes),
and Grenache Rase.
A baff l e fermented, Estate
grown Pinal Chardonnay Cham
pagne Brut i s al so made, as
wel l as Sherry and Vi ntage Part.
CHAPPELLET WI NERY, one of
the newest i n t he regi on, was
establ i shed by Donn Chappel l el
i n 1 969. The pyrami d- shaped
wi nery houses t he gl eami ng
modern equi pment and tradi
ti onal agi ng barrel s for t he
premi um vari elal s made from
the estate' s own pl ant i ngs. Pro
duction is l i mi ted to t he types
best sui ted for t he area sur
roundi ng t he wi nery. The pl ant
i ngs are restri cted to such vari
etal s as Cabernel Sauvi gnon,
Cheni n Bl anc, and Ri esl i ng.
THE CHRI STI AN BROTHERS, a
Roman Cat hol i c leac hi ng order,
started thei r Cal i forni a wi ne
maki ng operati ons i n 1 882.
Thei r ext ensi ve pl ant i ngs and
wi neri es i n t he Napa Val l ey
ond Los Gatos enabl e them to
produce great quanti fi es and
vari eti es of premi um wi nes , and
sacrament al wi nes .
The Brothers do not vi ntage
t hei r wi nes, preferri ng to bl end
f or uni form hi gh qual i fy. Thei r
bul k wi nes, i n gal l ons and hal f
gal l ons, are exactl y t he same
qual i fy as the wi ne baffl ed i n
ffths and s mal l er contai ners.
The bul k of the Brot hers '
wi nes an d brandy are sol d
under The Christian Brothers
l abel , except the sacramental
wi nes whi ch are baffl ed under
the Mont La Salle brand. The
Novitiate of . Los Gatos markets
some tabl e, aperi t i f, and dessert
wi nes under t he Novitiate l abel .
The vari elal s i ncl ude:
Red Table Wi ne: Cabernet Sau
vi gnon, Gamay, Pi not Noi r, and
Pi nal St. George.
White Table Wines: Dry and
Sweet Sauvi gnon Bl anc and
Semi l l on, Pi nal Chardonnay,
Cheni n Bl anc, Johanni sberg
Ri es l i ng, Ri esl i ng, Sylvaner,
Grey Ri esl i ng, and Chateau La
Sal l e, a l i ght muscat. The usual
assort ment of premi um gener
i cs such as Burgundy, Sauterne
and Chabl i s are al so made.
35
HEITZ WI NE CELLARS is owned
by Joseph and Al i ce Heitz. Us
ing t hei r extensive knowl edge
of wi ne, they sel ect, bl end, ma
lure and bottl e other producers '
wines and sel l t hem under t hei r
own l abel .
Red Table Wines: Barbera, Bur
gundy, Cabernet Sauvi gnon,
Gri gnol i no, Pi nal Nai r, and
Ruby Cabernet.
White Table Wines: Chabl is, Jo.
hanni sberg Ri es l i ng, and Pi nal
Bl anc. The above are sol d un
der t he Heitz Cellar I obei , u nder
t hei r Cellar Treasure l abel o
Tawny Port and an Angel ica.
I NGLENOOK, an ol d stone wi n.
ery, is a Napa Val l ey show
pl ace bui l t in 1 879. It was t he
frst wi nery to l abel vari etal s
as such. Al l t he wi nes are
36
marked wi t h t he vi ntage year;
some corry t he cas k n umber.
Red Table Wines: Cabernet Sau
vi gnon, Pi nal Nai r, Pi nal St.
George, Gamoy, Zi nf andel , and
Charbon a.
White Tabl e Wines: Grey Ries
l i ng, Wh i te Pi nal, Trami ner,
Pi nal Chardon nay, Sylvaner, Jo
honni sberg Ri es l i ng, Cheni n
Bl anc, Ri esl i ng, Dry Semi l l on.
I ngl enook al so makes Naval l e
Rose, Vi ntage Champagne and
dessert and appeti zer wi nes.
ITALIAN SWISS COLONY,
fou nded in 1 88 1 is now one of
the gi ants of t he wi ne i ndustry,
a cooperati ve produci ng as
much as 25% of U. S. vol u me.
The bul k of its producti on i s
i n medi um pri ced wi nes of good
qual i ty, but i t al so markets some
premi um wi nes u nder i ts Private
Stock l
a
bel . Generi c wi nes are
sol d u nder t he Tipo brand.
the usual assort ment of tabl e,
aperi ti f, and dessert wi nes are
marketed under t he Gold Medal
Reserve and Private Stock
l abel s. The I tal ian Swi ss Col ony
is now part of t he giant combi ne
under United Vi ntners, I nc.
F. KORBEL & BROS. is t he home
of champagnes rat ed among the
best i n t he country. The origi nal
wi nery was bui l t i n 1 886.
Marketed under t he Korbel
brand are: Korbel Nature (very
dry), Korbel Brut (dry), Korbel
Extra Dry and Korbel Sec (both
medi um dry), Korbel Rouge, and
Korbel Rose. The tabl e wi nes i n
cl ude: Chabl i s, Sauterne, Grey
Ri esl i ng, Rose, Burgundy, Co
bernet, and Pi nal Nai r.
CHARLES KRUG WI NERY, dat i ng
back to 1 86 1 , i s now run by t he
Mondovi fami l y and has been
completel y moder ni zed. The
mai n accent i s on premi um tabl e
wines, sol d under t he Charles
Krug l abel , with less expensi ve
wines sol d under t he CK and
Mondovi Vintage l abel s. Bes i des
the usual generi c wi nes the fol
l owi ng vari elal s are made:
Red Table Wi nes: Cabernet Sau
vi gnon, Gamay, Pi nal Noi r, and
Mountai n Zi nfandel .
White Table Wines: Dry, and
Sweet Semi l l on, Sweet Sauvi
gnon Bl anc, Wh ite Pi nal, Cheni n
Bl anc, Pi nal Chardonnay, Tra
mi ner, Gewurztrami ner, Syl
vaner, Grey Ri es l i ng and Jo
hanni sberg Ri es l i ng.
Fttp Mm t WlWy
LOUIS I. IARTINI
LOUI S M. MARTI NI wi nes are
a mong Cal iforni a' s best.
Red Tabl e Wi nes: Vi ntage Cab
erne! Sauvi gnon and Vi ntage
Mountai n Pi nal Noi r. Al so, Bar
bera and Zi nfandel .
White Table Wines: J
o
hannis
berg Ri es l i ng, Mountai n Ge
wurzlrami ner ,
M
ount ai n Syl
vaner, Mountai n Fol i e Bl anche,
and Mountai n Dry Semi l l on. Al l
are Vi ntage.
Al so: Mountai n Ri esl i ng,
Mountai n Dry Cheni n Bl anc, and
Mountai n Pi nal Chardonnay.
A number of gener i c t abl e
wi nes, t wo r oses, and four
aperi ti f and dessert wi nes are
al so produced. Avai l abl e onl y
at the wi nery are same speci al
vi ntage tabl e wi nes and an ef
fervescent Moscat o Amabi l e.
MAYACAMAS VI NEARDS are
l ocated on lap of MI. Veeder,
an ext i nct vol cano. The rel ati vel y
smal l wi nery produces some out
standi ng wi nes, under t he May
acamas l abel , al l T OO% of t he
vari ety s hown on t he l abel .
Producti on has been l i mi ted Ia
a few vari eti es grown an t he
estate, Cabernel Sauvi gnon,
Pi nal Chardon nay, Cheni n Bl anc,
and Zi nfandel .
ROBERT MONDAVI WI NERY
was started in 1 966 by Robert
Mondovi and his son to pro-
. duce the fnest Napa Val l ey
wi nes possi bl e. The grapes are
purchased from ot her growers
and vi ni fed by a j udi ci ous use
of innovative and tradi t i onal
methods. Al l t he wi nes pro
duced are vari etal s.
Red Table Wi nes: Cabernet Sau
vi gnon, Gamay, Pi nal Nai r, and
Zi nfandel .
White Tabl e Wines: Chardon
nay, Chenin Bl anc, Fume Bl an c,
Ri esl i ng, Sauvi gnon Bl anc, an d
Traminer.

` .
SCHRAMSBERG VI NEYARDS,
made famous i n l i terature by
Robert loui s Stevenson i s now
produci ng onl y premi um qual
i t y battl e fer mented sparkl i ng
wines. The vi neyards have been
repl anted i n Pi nal Nai r and
Chardonnay, t he pr i nci pal vari
eti es used to make t he French
Champagnes.
Blanc de Bl anCs~a blend of
Char donnay and Pi nal Bl anc.
Cuvee de Gamay-A l i ght, pink
sparkl i ng Napa Gamay wi ne.
Blanc de Noir-A White Cham
pagne made of Pi nat Noi r
grapes.
SAMUELE SEBASTIAN! i s the
oldest wi nery i n Sonoma Val l ey
operated conti nuousl y by one
fami l y. I n 1 954 t he son of t he
founder deci ded t o change t he
operati on fr om producti on of
bul k wi ne to premi um vari eti es.
Under t he Sebastiani l abel are
produced tabl e wi nes, aperi ti f,
dessert wi nes and vermout hs, as
wel l as bottl efer mented s park
l i ng wi nes. Feat ured wi nes i n
cl ude: Barbera, Cabernet Sauvi
gnon, Gamay Beauj ol ai s, Pi not
Noi r, and Green Hungari an.
SOUVERAI N CELLARS, founded
i n 1 943 by J. lel and Stewart
have successful l y ach ieved t he
ai m t o bl end t he best ol d-worl d
tradi t i ons wi th t he l atest modern
Cal i fornia methods of wi nemok
i ng. Wi nes marketed under t he
Souverain brand i ncl ude:
Red Table Wines: Burgundy,
Cabernet Sauvi gnon, Petite
Si rah, and Mountai n Zi nfandel .
White Tabl e Wines: Johannis
berg Ri es l i ng, White Pi not,
Green Hungari an, Cheni n Bl anc,
Fl ora, and Chardonnay.
There i s al so a Grenache Rose.
THE ALAMEDA, CONTRA COSTA, and SANTA CLARA,
SANTA CRUZ, SAN BENITO DISTRICTS i ncl ude the
cel ebrated Livermore Valley where the fnest Cal ifor ni a
Sauterne-type Yi nes are produced, the equal ly famous
Al ameda region around Mission San Jose, and the
great Vi Heyards of Al maden and Paul Masson.
ALMADN VI NEYARDS is one
of t he gi ant s of Cal i forni a. The
Pai ci nes and Val l i ant pl ant i ngs
a l one cover more t han 4,000
acres. The storage s heds at Pai
ci nes hol d about 60 mi l l i on gal
l ons of wine. I ts bi gness does
not detract from qual ity as t he
compl ete sel ecti on of premi um
wi nes marketed under t he Alma
den l abel attests.
38
Red Table Wi nes: Cabernet Sau
vi gnon, Pi nal Nai r, Gamay Beau
jol ai s, generi cs such as Moun
t ai n reds, and Estate- Bott l ed
Vi ntage vari etal s.
White Table Wi nes: Pi not Cha r
don nay, Pi nal Bl anc, Johanni s
ber g Ri es l i ng, Dry Sem i l ion,
Trami ner, Syl vaner, Gr ey Ri es
l i ng, Cheni n Bl anc, Sauvi gnon
Bl anc and white generi cs.
onnnon
Y

$MW MMY
PETITE SIRAH
M M W
MWMM

CONCANNON VI NEYARD was
founded i n 1 883 by James Con
cannon, and i s sti l l run by hi s
descendants. Here the emphasi s
i s on Johan ni sberg Ri esl i ng, Pe
tite Si rah, and Cabernet Sauvi
gnon. Top qual i ty generi cs and
varietal s are produced, as wel l
as aperi ti f, dessert and bottle
fermented sparkl i ng wi nes.
Red Table Wi nes: Cabernet Sau
vi gnon, Peti te Si rah, Li vermore
Red Di nner Wi ne.
White Table Wi nes: Sauvi gnon
Bl anc, Johanni sberg Ri esl i ng, Dry
Sauterne, Chateau Concan non,
Chabl i s, Mosel l e, and Liver more
White Di nner Wi ne.
LLORDS & ELWOOD WI NERY,
bui l t in 1 955, uses propri etary
names for its vari etal s.
Red Table Wi nes: Cabernet Sau
vi gnon, Vel vet Hi l l ( Pi nal Nair).
White Table Wines: Castle Mag
i c (Johanni sberg Ri esl i ng), and
The Rare Chardonnay.
Sherries: Great Day D-r-r-y
Sherry, Dry Wit Sherry, and The
Judge' s Secret Cream Sherry.
Port: Ancient Proverb Port.
Rose: Rose of Cabernet.
CRESTA BLANCA wi nery was
bui l t i n 1 883. I t features whi te
tabl e wi nes from the Li vermore
Val l ey and reds from Napa and
Sonoma. Al s o marketed under
the Cresta Blanca l abel ar e pre
mi um sherri es., ports and ver
mouths.
Red Tabl e Wines: Cabernet Sau
vi gnon, Pi nal Nai r, and Zi n
fandel .
White Table Wi nes: Premi er Se
mi l l on, Dry and Sweet Semi l lon,
Sauvi gnon Bl anc, Pi nal Chardon
nay, and Grey Ri esl i ng.
The sparkl i ng wi nes are bot
tl e fermented.
PAUL MASSON i s a great name
i n the hi story of Cal iforni a
wi ne. Establ i shi ng hi s fr st vi ne
yard i n 1 852, the young Burgun
di an who gave hi s name t o t he
company won a gol d medal for
his wine in Paris in 1 900.
Recent expansi ons and exten
si ve pl ant i ngs such as the 330-
acre San Ysi dro Vi neyard, and
t he 1 ,500-acre Pi n nacl es Vi ne
yard have assured i ts pl ace as
one of the l argest wi ne makers.
Paul Masson produces a com
pl ete gamut of generi c and
varietal tabl e wi nes, sparkl i ng,
aperi ti f, dessert wi nes, ver
mouths and brandi es.
The varietal s i ncl ude:
Red Table Wi nes: Cabernet Sau
vi gnon, Gamay Beauj ol ai s and
Pi nal Noi r. Two propri etary reds
of speci al meri t are t he Baroque,
a Burgundy type, and Rubion,
a ready-to- dri n k cl aret bl end.
White Table Wines: Pi not Bl anc,
Pi nal Chardonnay, Chateau Mas
son (Sweet Semi l l on) , and Em
er al d Dry.
39
MI RASSOU VI NEYARDS: The
ffth generati on of Mirassous i s
now r unni ng t hi s unusual oper a
t i on. Or i gi nal l y t he vi neyards
produced premi u m qual ity var i
etal wi ne and c hampagne stock
for sal e Ia other wi neri es. Now
an i ncreasi ng proporti on of the
harvest i s made into wi ne under
the Mirassou l abel . The Mi rassou
vari etal s a re bottl ed at approxi
mat el y 1 00% from t he named
vari etal , far exceedi ng t he l egal
requi rement of 51 % mi ni mum.
Red Table Wines: Peti te Si rah,
Pi nal Nai r, Cabernet Sauvi gnon,
Gamay Beauj ol ai s, Zi nfandel .
White Table Wi nes: Pi not Bl anc,
Chardon nay, Whi t e Ri esl i ng,
Chen i n Bl anc, GewUrztromi ner,
Sauvi gnon Bl anc, Ri esl i ng, Syl
van er, and Semi l l on. A Gre
nache Rose an d s par kl i ng wi nes,
bottl e- fer mented a re al so bot
t l ed u nder thei r l abel .
MARTI N RAY, a s uccessful
stoc kbroker, real i zed hi s a mbi
t i on to become a wi ne maker i n
1 936. He and hi s son have de
voted t hei r s ki l l s to the produc
ti on of fne t abl e wi nes and
champagnes. The wi nes are al l
40
1 00% varietaL Two red
tabl e wi nes made ar e Pinot Nair
an d Cabernet Sauvignon. Char
donnay i s the onl y whi t e. The
bottl e f er mented c hampagnes
ar e: Madame Pi not, a bl anc de
noi r made f r om f r ee r un j u i ce;
Blanc de Nair, t he costl i est Mar
t i n Ray c hampagne; Sang de
Pinal; Champagne de Chardon
nay, a bl anc de bl ancs.
SAN MARTI N VI NEYARDS CO.
was founded i n 1 932 by Brun o
Fi l i ce. A f ul l sel ect i on of tabl e
wi nes, s par kl i ng wi nes , aperi t i f,
dessert wi nes, vermout hs and
frui t wi nes i s marketed under
t he San Martin and Castlewood
l abel s :
Red Table Wines: Caber net Sau
vi gnon, Cabernet Ruby, Gamey
Beau j ol ai s, Pi nal Nai r, and Zi n
fandel .
White Table Wines: Pi not Char
donnay, Dry Semi l l on, Syl vaner
Ri es l i ng, Emer al d Ri es l i ng, an d
Mal vasi a Bianca.
Gener i cs i nc l ude a Mount ai n
Gr enache Rose Chi ant i .
WEI BEL, I NC. , fou nded i n 1 939,
i s f amous for its cha mpagnes,
and produces premi u m tabl e,
aperi ti f, and dessert wi nes.
Champagnes: Bottle-fermented
Chardonnay Brut, Extra Dry, Sec,
Pi n k Champag ne ond Spar kl i ng
Burgu ndy. Al so Crackl i ng Rose
and Moscato Spumante.
Red Table Wi nes: Pi nal Nai r,
Cabernet Sauvi gnon, Royal ty,
Zi nfondel . Al so red generi cs.
White Tabl e Wi nes: Chardon
nay, Johan n i sberg Ri esl i ng,
Chen i n Bl anc , Gr een Hungar i an,
ond Grey Ri es l i ng, pl us whi te
generi cs. A Gr enache Rose i s
avai l abl e, al so Vi ntage Pi nal
Nai r and Chardonnay.
A speci al ty, Tangor, has the
favor of t anger i nes .
WENTE BROS. i s one of t he
great names i n t he h i story of
Cal i f or ni a wi nes . Car l H. Went e,
t he f ounder, bui l t hi s frst wi nery
i n 1 883. The gravel l y vi neyards
are wel l s u i ted to the fne vari
eti es pl anted t here. The Wentes
produce onl y tabl e wi nes . Thei r
whi te wi nes, i n t he opi ni on of
many experts, are uns urpassed
i n Cal i forni a. Al most al l t hei r
vori etol s carry t he vi ntage date.
White Tabl e Wi nes: Pi not Char
don nay, Pi not Bl anc, Chabl i s ,
Dr y Semi l l on, Sauvi gnon Bl anc,
Chateau Wente, a bl end, Grey
Ri es l i ng, ond le Bl an c des
Bl ancs, made of Chen i n Bl anc
and Ugni .
Red Table Wi nes: Bur gundy,
Pi nal Nai r, Go rey Beauj ol ai s,
and Rose.
THE GREAT I NLAND VALLEY and SOUTHERN CALI
FORNIA REGI ONS have the cl i mate and soil t hat
produce t he great Cal i for ni a aperi ti f and dessert wi nes
as wel l as many of t he other vari eti es. I t i ncl udes t he
di st ri cts of Lodi- Sacramento, Escalon-Modesto, Fresno
San Joaqui n Valley, Cucamonga, and Los Angeles.
BROOKSI DE VI NEYARD CO. ,
fou nded i n 1 832 i s sti l l opera
ted by the Bi an e fami l y. They
operate 28 wi ne cel l ars where
sal es are made di rectl y to the
consu mer.
Brooksi de pi oneered th e
branch wi nery sal es tasti ng
cel l ar concept. They ofer a
choi ce of al l types of wi nes :
over a dozen Brookside Estate
wi nes; ni ne Vache wi nes, twenty
odd Assumption Abbey wi nes ;
as many u nder t he Brookside
Cellor l abel , ond s par kl i ng
wi nes, sherri es, brandi es, etc.
4 1
CUCAMONGA WI NERY c
l
aims
the honor of bei ng t he frst wi t h
t he Cucamonga name. I t pro
duces onl y red and whi te t abl e
wi nes, and vermout hs, a di s
t i nct i on i n an area where great
vari ety i s t he rul e. They are al l
of premi u m qual i ty and are di s
tri buted i n t he East and Mi d
west.
Un der the feat ured brand
Romano Cucamonga ar e t he
us ual generi c wi nes , Ch ianti ,
Dry Muscat and red varietal s i n
cl udi n g: Barbera, Gri gn ol i no,
and Zi nfandel .
E. & J. GALLO WI NERY i s per
haps t he best- known name
among Cal i forni a brands . I t i s
al so one of t he bi ggest opera
lions in the state. The Gal l o
brothers bel i eve t hat Ameri can s
wan t wi nes made t o t hei r taste,
that i t must be i nexpensi ve, and
t hat t he product s houl d be vi gor
ousl y adverti sed. They founded
t hei r wi nery and have act ed on
t hei r ph i l osophy, bui l di ng t hei r
company to gi ant s ize. They
market some forty t ypes of
wi nes, some tradi t i onal such as
t he popul ar generi cs, some spe
dal l y bl ended for "t he Ameri can
taste" i ncl udi ng compl etel y i n
novative types s uc h as t he
" pop" wi nes . Whi l e there are
many who depl ore the Gal l o
product s and phi l osophy, they
have cont ri buted and cont i nue
to cont ri bute t o t he popul ari za
t i on of wi ne i n Ameri ca.
GUI LD WI NE COMPANY, for
merl y known as "Wine Growers
Guild," i s O federat i on of co
operati ve wi neri es represent i ng
42
about 1 ,000 members, 9 maj or
wi ne brands , 6 s par kl i ng wi ne
brands, and 5 brandi es. Al l are
bottl ed i n lodi , but a re made at
wi neri es i n Uki ah, Woodbri dge,
Fresno, Guasti , and lodi .
The handsome Winemasters
Guild l abel , adopted in the earl y
70' s, may u nify some of t he mul
l i t ude of brands produced by
t he Gui l d. These i ncl ude: Tavola,
Ceremony, Famiglia Cribari,
Mendocino, Garrett, Alta, C. V. C. ,
and Virginia Dare.
PETRI WI NERI ES are a part of
the s uper- gi ant Un i ted Vi nt ners,
market i ng arm of Al l i ed Grape
Growers, a cooperati ve wf t h
1 ,800 members . Brands i ncl ude
G&D, I tal i an Swi ss Col ony, Petri ,
Mi ssi on Bel l , Greystone, Cel l a,
and many others.
The Petri l abel i s found on the
regul ar tabl e, dessert, and aper
itif wi nes. Marco Petri i s used
for t he Vino Rosso Pastoso, a
mel l ow I t al i an-type tabl e wi ne.
ROMA WI NE COMPANY, fou nd
ed in 1 890, expanded t o gi ant
s i ze i n t he 1 930' s. The wi nery
areas al one exceed 50 acres,
and can store 25 mi l l i on gal l ons.
Roma wi nes are s ound stand
ard qual i ty, marketed nat ional l y
and exported u nder vari ous
brands such as Roma Reserve,
Romo Estate, and Roma Select.
Al most all Roma aperi t i f and
dessert wi nes ar e made from
grapes g rown i n the San Joa
qui n Val ley. Tabl e wi nes i n
c l ude: Vino d' Uva, Vino Bianco,
Barberone, Chianti, and Zinfan
del, al l u nder the Roma Pride
of the Vineyard l abel .
RE ADI NG A CAL I F ORNI A WI NE LABE L
AMERI CAN WI NE LABELS a re cl ear an d expl i ci t . Most
of the i nfor mati on i s stri ctl y prescri bed by l aw, j ust
as is t he case wi th many of t hei r forei gn counter parts .
The Cal i for ni a l abel s exempl i fy "truth in l abel i ng. "
1 . Name of t h e Maker-The
reputat i on of t he maker ri des
on t hi s i dent i fcot i on.
2. Vintage-1 00
%
of t he wi ne
must have been produced i n t he
year stated.
3. Origin-No i denti fcat i on of
ori gi n i s al l owed un l ess at l east
75
%
of t he wi ne comes from
grapes grawn an d ferment ed
i n t he desi gnat ed regi on.
4. Alcoholic Content-Stat ement
requi red by l aw. Tabl e wi nes
and sparkl i ng wi nes average
1 2
%
al cohol by vol u me; aperi t i f
ond dessert wi nes average 20
%
.
5. Produced and Bottled by . . .
-Pos s i bl y t he most i mportant
statement. " " Produced" " means
!hot at l east 75
%
of t he wi ne
must have been crushed, fer
mented, matured an d battl ed by
the vi nt ner named.
I f t he wor d " " Made" " i s used, i t
can mean that as muc h as 90
%
may have been produced by
others.
I f " " Estate Bottling" " i s used, i t
s i gn i fes t hat 1 00
%
of t he wi n e
has been made by the estate.
6. Type-I ndi cat es whether the
wi ne i s a vari etal , generi c, or
a propri etary brand. A vari etal
desi gnat i on, by l aw, mean s
t hat i t mus t contai n at l east
51
%
of t he vari ety named.
Some vi nt ners l i s t t he vari
et i es used on the back l abel
wi t h a descri pt i on of t he wi ne.
43
NE W YOR K
The ear l y settl ers made wi ne from t he wi l d gropes
they found growi ng i n abundance, but i t was so un
pal at abl e that t hey sent for European vari eti es of
vi nes, whi ch promptl y di ed i n t he harsher cl i mate of
the New Wor l d. Native vari eti es were cul ti vated and
devel oped, produci ng excel l ent wi nes havi ng t hei r own
di sti n ct favor and character, qui te di ferent from those
mode i n Europe.
Commerci al wi ne maki ng i n t he New Yor k regi on
began i n 1 860 at t he head of Keuka lake, around
Hammon dsport wher e thi rty year s ear l i er t he frst cul ti
vated wi ne gropes hod been successful l y pl anted. A
number of unsuccessful attempts were mode to g row
Eur opean groje vari eti es over the years, but i t was not
unt i l qui te recently that Dr . Konstonti n Fron k demon
strated that Vitis vinifera coul d be grown i n New Yor k
State. Other New Yor k growers hove establ i s hed si z
abl e pl anti ngs of French hybri ds al ong wi th t he exten
si ve Vitis labrusca pl anti ngs traditional t o t he region .
Most New Yor k wi nes ore extensi vel y bl ended, pro
duci ng a consi stent unifor m qual i ty di ctated to a I orge
extent by t he consumers. I n general , New Yor k spar
kl i ng wi nes ore outstandi ng, cl osel y fol l owed by t he
vari etal whi tes. A number of r ed wi nes ore i mprovi ng
year by year, s ome of t hem reachi ng t he qual ity l evel
of t he whi tes.
The rather strong fragrance of t he Vitis labrusca i s
often modi fed by bl endi ng, al t hough some vi ntners
conti nue to produce wi n es wi th t he ful l native favor,
cal l ed "foxi ness " by its criti cs. The vi ni fera wi nes ore
compl etel y free of that taste, as ore t he French hy
br i d wi n es.
44
.c / ( 1
1c
C
A
V
'!R0I
IP

l. lo
1 . BULLY HI LL VI NEYARDS
Z. GOLD SEAL VI NEYARDS
3. HAMMONDSPORT WI NE CO.
4. PLEASANT VALLEY WI NE CO.
5. TAYLOR WINE CO.
. VI NI FERA WI NE CELLARS
n n
onporI
Z. BOORDY VI NEYARDS
8. CANANDAI GUA
INDUSTRI ES
9. WI DMER'S WI NE CELLARS
1 0. HI GH TOR VI NEYARDS
1 1 . HUDSON VALLEY WI NE CO.
The map s hows t he pri nci pal wi ne- growi ng ar eas of
New Yor k State. The l argest by far is t he Fi nger Lakes
Regi on where t he great maj ority of wi neri es are lo
cated, parti cul arl y al ong t he wester n s hore of Keuka
lake. The ot her r egi ons i ncl ude the Hudson Ri ver Val
l ey, Chautauqua, and Ni agar a. The Chaut auqua wi ne
g rowi ng bel t extends al ong lake Er i e, t hr ough Pen nsyl
vani a and wi nds up i n Ohi o. The pl ant i ngs consi st
mostl y of Concord grapes, much used for Kosher wi ne.
Some of t he Ni agara wi ne r egi on l i es i n Canada as
wel l as New Yor k between Lakes Er i e and Ontari o.
45
I
.

.
I
.
I

THE FINGER LAKES REGION vi neyards a nd wi neri es
are cl ustered chi efy ar ound Lakes Keuka an d Canan
dai gua. There are some pl anti ngs near Seneca, Ca
yuga, and Heml ock. The water has a temperi ng efect
on t he har sh wi nter, produci ng a nearl y i deal cl i mate
for viti cul ture. Years ago there were many s mal l wi n
er i es her e. Today there are l es s t han a dozen .
GOLD SEAL WI NERI ES, fou nded
i n 1 865, entered t hei r modern
phase of wi ne maki ng i n t he
1 940' s wi t h t he arri val of
Charl es Fourn i er, o Chi ef Wi ne
Mast er from France. He set
about i mprovi ng t he wi nes, se
l ect i ng nat ive vari etol s ond,
wi th Phi l i p Wagner, pl ant i ng
hybri ds sui ted to t he New York
cl i mate. Next he enl i sted t he
ai d of Dr. Konstant i n Frank
who, despi te t hree centuri es of
fai l ures by ot her vi nt ners, be
lieved and proved that vinifera
coul d be grown in New York
State. All t hree approaches
were crowned wi th success.
Gol d Seal ' s top premi um
wi nes, marketed under t he
Charl es Fourni er si gnat ure, i n
cl ude t he Chablis Nature and
the sparkl i ng Fournier Blanc de
8/ancs, both made wi th Char
donnay grown in t he Fi nger
Lakes Regi on.
46
A l arge sel ecti on of premi um
vari etal s, generi cs, and cham
pagnes ar e sol d under t he
Gol d Seal l abel , such as:
Red Table Wines: Cat awba Red,
Concord Red, and Burgundy.
White Table Wi nes: Catawba
Whi te, Rhi ne, and Sauterne.
Rose Tabl e Wines: Catawba
Pi nk, and Rose.
Sparkl i ng Wines: Gol d Seal
Brut, Extra Dry, Pi nk, Sparkl i ng
Burgundy, and Col d Duck.
A lower-pri ced sel ecti on of
s t i l l and s parkl i ng wi nes is sol d
under t he Henri Marchant l abel .
GREAT WESTERN i s t he rost
famous of t he wi nes mode by
t he Pl easant Val ley Wine Com
pany, a l eader i n New York
wi nes s i nce 1 860. A wi nner of
many i nternati onal awards,
Great Western recei ved its frst
Gol d Medal in Paris in 1 867.
Great Western, l i ke many
Eastern vi ntners, pri des i tsel f on
the qual ity and fragrance of i ts
nati ve grape wi nes. A number
of French hybri ds have been
added, as wel l as some Ameri
can hybri ds. The vi ntners use
tradi t i onal methods careful l y
coordi nated wi th modern tech
no l ogy.
Al l Great Western Cham
pagne i s fermented i n t he bot
tl e in the tradi t i onal manner.
The Sherri es and Ports are
bl ended and aged in sol eras
started a n umber of years ago,
produci ng wi nes of di st i nct
qual ity and u ni que favor.
Red Table Wines: Varietals
Chel oi s, Baco Nai r ( Burgundy),
and Vin Rouge. One generic is
made, the Pl easant Val l ey Red.
White Table Wi nes: Varietals
Aurora ( Sauterne) , Dut chess
( Rhi ne Wi ne), Del aware, Di a
mond, and Yi n Bl anc Sec.
Rose Tabl e Wi nes: I sabel l a
Rose, and Pi nk Catawba.
Champagnes: Brut , Speci al Re
serve, Extra Dry, and Pi nk.
BULLY HI LL VI NEYARDS, on t he
si te of the ori gi nal Tayl or Wi ne
Company, i s awned and oper
ated by the hi ghl y i ndi vi dual i s
ti c Wal t er S. Tayl or, a di rect de
scendant of the famous New
York State wi ne fami l y.
I n 1 970, onl y two wi nes were
made usi ng nat ive and French
Ameri can vari eti es. The grapes,
grown on the estate and ad
j oi ni ng l ands l egal l y cl ai m t he
Estate- Bottl ed appel l at i on.
The B ully Hi l l Whi t e Wine i s
a bl end of Del aware, Aurora,
and Seyval Bl anc vari eti es.
The Bully Hill Red Wi ne i s a
bl end of seven vari eti es.
To these two ori gi nal wi nes a
Rose and s i x vari etal s have been
added: Del aware, Baco Nai r,
l ves Nai r, Aurora Bl anc, Seyval
Bl anc, and Di amond.
Wal ter Tayl or i s j ustl y proud
of hi s wi nes, cl osel y supervi si ng
each st ep of t he process i n t he
vi neyard as wel l as i n the wi n
ery. A man of many tal ent s, he
i s proudest of hi s ti tl e af "vi
gneron. ' '
Vi neyards on t he sl opes of Lake Keuka, one of the Fi nger Lakes.
r-
TAYL@
I
. lV W 8'\'
; ~~
_mIF| lQIlT,
THE TAYLOR WI NE COMPANY,
the l argest in t he state, and one
of t he l argest i n the country,
operates its wi nery in a
s moothl y meshed combi nati on
of tradi t i onal wi ne maki ng meth
ods and t he l atest tech nol ogi cal
advances.
Wal ter Tayl or' s ori gi nal seven
acres, bought i n 1 880, have
mul t i pl i ed more than a hun
dredfol d, and several thousand
acres of nei ghbori ng vi neyards
hel p fl l the many gi ant ferment
i ng tanks i n t he modern wi nery.
Extens ive French hybri d pl ant
i ngs are suppl ement i ng and
someti mes repl aci ng the nati ve
grape. The wi ne from the hy
bri ds i s bl ended wi th ather
wi nes, creati ng total l y new
wi nes wi t h a vari ety of favors
never known before.
L i ke the maj ori ty of New York
wi nes, Tayl or' s are l i ght and
fragrant. Through careful bl end
i ng, the di ferent wi nes ofer a
rat her wi de range of the char
acteri sti c labrusca fragrance.
48
I n the l ate '60s Tayl or i ntro
duced a new wi ne, Lake Coun
t r y led, fol l owed by a Lake
Country Whi te and a Pi nk.
Besi des t he t abl e wi nes and t he
j ustly f amous champagnes, Tay
lor makes a f ul l l i ne of dessert
wines and two vermout hs.
Red Tabl e Wi nes: Bur gundy,
Cl aret, and Lake Country Red.
White Tabl e Wi nes: Sauterne,
Rhi ne Wi ne, and Lake Country
Whi te.
Rase Table Wi nes: Rose, and
Lake Country Pi nk.
Sparkl i ng Wi nes: Dr y Cham
pagne, Brut, and Pi nk. Spar
kl i ng Burgundy and Col d Duck.
Appeti zer Wi nes: Pal e Dry
Cocktai l Sherry, Dry and Sweet
Vermouths.
Dessert Wi nes: Port, Tawny
Port, Sherry, Cream Sherry,
White Tokay, and Muscatel .
WI DMER'S WI NE CELLARS were
founded i n 1 88 2 by Joh n Jacob
Wi dmer i n the h i l l s of Napl es,
at the foot of Lake Canandai
gua. Hi s son Wi l l made t he
wi ne.
The Wi dmer phi l osophy was
that the wh ite wi nes made from
the nati ve grape were uni que
and, careful l y vi nifed, woul d be
the match of any other wi nes.
The Wi dmers enl i sted the ai d
of Phi l Wagner and ot her hy
bri di zers and were among t he
pi oneers of fne hybri d stocks
i n the East.
Among the large choi ce of
wi nes and champagnes are:
Varietal Whites: Del aware, Ri es
l i ng, Moore' s Di amond, Ver
gen nes, and El vi ra.
VI NI FERA WI NE CELLARS and
vi neyards are t he home of Dr .
Konstant i n Frank, t he passi on
ate apostl e of Vilis Vinifera i n
t h e Eosl. Dr . Fran k' s German
parents had establ i shed vi ne
yards i n t he Ukrai ne where he
devel oped hi s consi derabl e
ski l l s , bri ngi ng t hem t o t he
Fi nger Lakes i n the '40s. There
he was befri ended by that other
great wi ne maker, Charl es Four
ni er, and was abl e to prove hi s
contenti on t hat vinifera coul d
be grown i n t he Northeast, us
i ng the t hree hundred years of
previ ous f ai l ures as an exampl e
of what s houl d not be done.
Dr. Fran k' s s i xty acres are al l
pl anted i n European vi nes, al l
of t hem t hri vi ng.
He has made al l ki nds of
wi nes f r om these grapes, some
for marketi ng, some j ust to
prove hi s poi nt , such as t he Jo
hanni sberg Trockenbeeren Aus
l ese whi ch sol d for forty-fve
dol l ars a bott l el
Al though h i s wi nes are on
the market, pri mari l y the Jo
hanni sberg Ri esl i ng Not ur Spat
l ese, Pi not Chardon nay Natur,
and GewUrztrami ner, hi s oper
ati on can not be consi dered a
true commerci al enterpri se. He
i s al ways demonstrati ng, for t he
beneft of the vi nt ners
w
ho wi l l
fol l ow hi m, t he s uperl ati ve ex
cel l ence of vi ni fera wi nes an d
t h e demand t hey create a mong
di scri mi nati ng consumers.
He has al so produced Caber
net Souvi gnon, Pi not Gris from
the onl y commerci al pl ant i ng of
t hi s Al sat i an grape, Pi not Noi r,
a sweet wi ne from t he Russi an
grape Sereksi a, Gamay Beau
j ol ai s, and Al i gote. The l ast i s
a Burgundian grape produci ng a
l i ght, fresh wi ne with a pl eas
ant tartness. The mere exi stence
of these vari eti es . i n New York
State caused a mazement in t he
1 960's, and t he next st ep for
thei r maker was to make the
publ ic. real i ze t hei r excel l ence.
Dr. Konstont i n Fronk exami ni ng
hi s Ri esl i n9 grapes after t he
frst frost, i n Hammonds port.
49
THE HUDSON RIVER VALLEY'S wi neri es of note are
on t he maj esti c ri ver' s western ban ks, from t he Tappan
Zee opposi te Tarrytown north t o Hi ghl and. Al l are rel a
ti vel y s mal l , but each has its dreams and pl ans of ex
pansi on to meet the ever-i ncreasi ng demand for fne
New York State wi nes.
Pdanbob|eatmwim
highVinqams|n.,9.oumnP
MOq,RkTno 0nq, WYK
H|Chm.wP
V| N1AE JY7\
ROCK ROE
A li g, dry wi
HI GH TOR VI NEYARDS, on t he
sout hern sl opes of t he moun
loi n i mmortal i zed by Maxwel l
Anderson and from whi ch i t
tokes i t s name, i s consi dered by
many t a be t he best vi neyard
of the di stri ct. I t was founded
by Everell Crosby, a wri ter
turned vi ntner, and sol d i n the
1 970' s to Ri c hard Voi gt wha
pl ans to expand and conti nue
the fne wi ne maki ng tradi t ion
establ i s hed by Crosby.
The vi neyard i s pl anted in na
ti ve grapes and hybri ds from
the Wagner nurseri es and onl y
t hree wi nes, a red, a wh i te, and
a rose are produced i n modest
quanti ti es.
50
Crosby had named hi s wi nes,
i n proud s i mpl i ci ty, Roc kl and
Red, Rockl and Whi te, and Rack
l and Rose. A speci al sel ect i on
made i n outstandi ng vi ntage
years bears the notati on, "Spe
ci al Reserve," and the year.

`1L`
BLANC de BLANCS
THE HUDSON VALLEY WI NE
COMPANY i s l ocated on a bl uf
overl ooki ng t he ri ver. I t was
founded i n 1 907 by the Bol o
gnesi fami l y. The grapes grown
ore the nati ve varieties wi t h a
predomi nance of Del aware and
Catawba. The wi nes are estate
bolll ed.
Tabl e Wi nes: Pi nk Catawba,
Pi nk Chabl i s, Burgundy, Chabl i s,
Haul Sauterne and Sauter ne.
Sparkl i ng Wi nes: Bl anc de
Bl ancs Champagne, Brut, Extra
Dry, and Pi nk Champagne.
Ther e i s al so a Spar kl i ng Bur
gundy and Col d Duck.
BENMARL VI NEYARDS is a n un
usual organ i zat i on, a s mal l co
operati ve grope-growi ng asso
ci at i on formed to produce fne
wi nes f or i ts members, The Ben
marl Societe des Vignerons.
The Soci ete, whose members
are mostl y busi ness, academi c
and professi onal peopl e mai n-
lai n a model vi neyard estate
and wi nery. The vi nes are
French- Ameri can and vi ni fera
vari eti es. Members hi p i s by pur
chase of "Vi neri ghts, " each
Vi neri ght represent i ng two ac
t ual grapevi nes, produci ng one
case of wi ne each vi ntage year
for i ts owner.
THE CHAUTAUQUA AND NIAGARA REGI ONS may
prove to be t he next area of expansi on for French
hybri ds i n New York St ate. I t has been traditional ly
pl anted in Concord and other Ameri can vari eti es, but
pl anti ngs of hybri ds may total ly change t hi s regi on .
BOORDY VI NEYARDS made a
bi g j ump from Ri derwood, Mary
l and to Pen n Yon, N.Y., ond t he
Yaki ma Val l ey i n Was hi ngton.
Producti on i s supervi sed by Joc
el yn and Phi l i p Wogner, who
founded t he ori gi nal Boordy
Vi neyard in 1 943.
The frst vi ntage was a Red
Wine, resembl i ng French Beau
j ol ai s and a fragrant whi te
cal l ed Boordybl u mchen, soon fol
l owed by a dry White Wine,
and a Rose Wine. I n t he earl y
' 70s a number of vari etal s and
propri etary wi nes were added.
OTHER STATES a l so
p
roduce wi nes, but i n much
s mal l er quanti ti es than New York and Cal ifor ni a. There
are the Boordy Vi neyard of Maryl and, Mei er' s Wi ne
Cel l ars of Ohio, a cl uster of wi ner i es around Eri e,
Pennsyl vani a, The Ameri can Wi ne Company of Mi s
souri , and Wi ederkehr of Ar kansas, to name a few.
There is pr omi se in experi mental pl ant i ngs of wi ne
grapes i n frui t-growi ng areas of Oregon, Washi ngton,
Georgi a, and I l l i noi s. The research of t he var i ous agri
cul tur al stati ons such as Davi s, Cal i for ni a, and Geneva,
New Yor k, combi ned wi th t he pi oneeri ng wor k of
Charl es Four ni er, Dr . Konstanti n Frank, Maynard Am
eri ne, and V. l. Si ngl eton provi de a store of k nowl
edge for a br i ght future for Ameri can wi nes.
51
F R A N C E
For centuri es French wi nes have enj oyed and de
served t he reputati on of bei ng the best i n t he worl d.
The g reat French wi nes ar e sti l l unmatched and unex
cel l ed. Whi l e the l esser French wines are bei ng chal
l enged, wi t h mor e or l ess success, t hey sti l l hol d thei r
promi nent posi ti on in the mar ketpl ace.
I deal cl i mate and soi l condi ti ons for vi ti cul t ure give
French wi nes a g reat and unchangi ng advantage. The
sel ecti on of t he grape vari ety best suited for the par
ti cul ar l ocati on, arri ved at t hrough centuri es of tri al
and error, i s another pl us. Sci enti fc advances i n agron
omy and vi ti cul ture are hel pi ng to cl ose t he gap on
t hi s advantage i n other countri es . Fi nal l y t here i s t he
super b s ki l l of t he French vi ntners, passed fr om father
t o s on t hr ough generati ons al ong wi th an al most mysti
cal si xth sense of rel ati onshi p that the "vi gneron" has
wi th hi s g rapes. Al l t hese combi ne to produce the wi nes
whi ch have del i ghted generati ons of wi ne l overs al l
over t he worl d.
Al l French gr apes ar e of t he Vitis vinifera group.
The so-cal l ed " nobl e" grapes, such as t he Pi nots and
the Caber nets, produce the g reat wi nes. lesser strai ns,
such as the Gamay, produce wi nes of excel l ent qual
ity and t he great vol ume of the good, honest vin ordi
naire whi ch graces most French t abl es.
Al l wi ne- produci ng count ri es make some i nferi or
wi ne. The French ar e not i mmune from thi s defect. Be
cause they produce so much wi ne, there i s al ways a
s i zabl e quanti ty of medi ocre to out- and-out poor wi ne
whi ch i s foi sted on both t he French and export mar
kets by unscrupul ous wi ne merchants or poorl y t r ai ned
wi ne buyers for export fr ms.
52
Wi ne gropes ore grown over most of France by i ndi vi dual g row
ers for t hei r own needs. Onl y the maj or areas, produci ng wi ne
f or commerci al purposes ore shown on t hi s mop. The wi ne regi ons
ore st ri ct l y l i mi ted by l ow, as ore t he names of t he wi nes grown
i n any area. The geographi c extent of a wi ne- produci ng area i s
not necessari l y on i ndi cati on of i ts i mportance, t he a mount of
wi ne i t produces, or t he rel ati ve excel l ence of t he wi ne. More de
toi l ed mops ore found on the pages fol l owi ng.
53
B ORDE A U X
The wi nes of Bordeaux date back twenty centuri es,
to t he ti me of I mperi al Rome. I n 1 1 52, El eanor of
Aqui tai ne marri ed Henry I I of Engl and an d for t hree
hundred year s Bor deaux was u nder Engl i sh domi na
ti on. The Engl i sh grew fond of t he wi ne they named
claret, establ i shi ng a maj or mar ket for it to t hi s day.
The Bor deaux Regi on i s actual l y t he 2. 5 mi l l i on
acre French Depart ment of t he Gi ronde. I ts vi neyards
cover about 300, 000 acres, produci ng about hal f of
t he qual i ty wi ne of France i n its 39 i ndivi dual l y recog
ni zed di stri cts. The map shows some maj or di stri cts .
The wi nes r ange across a very broad spectru m of
taste, from t he el egant and del i cate Medoc reds to
the ri ch and suave Choteau d' Yquem, t he ki ng of t he
Sauternes.
I n 1 855, an ofci al cl assi fcati on of t he greatest
chat eaux wi nes of the Medoc, Sauternes, and Barsac
di stri cts was drawn up. I n t he 1 950' s those of Graves
and St.
l
mi l i on were added. There has been a wi de
spread feel i ng that t he cl assi fcati on shoul d be revi sed
and i ncl ude most of the other di stri cts. Of t he more
t han 2, 000 chateaux of Bordeaux some 200 have
been cl assi fed at one ti me or another . The cl assi fca
tion has some use for the cons umer, but i t i s no l onger
an accurate yardsti ck for compari son.
The whol e regi on i s compl etel y wi ne-centered. Wi ne
fraterni ti es abound and provi de more t han a touch of
col or wi th t hei r medi eval costumes at festi ve occasi ons.
Most date back to t he Mi ddl e Ages, such as t he J urade
of St.
E
mi l i on, whi ch recei ved i t s charter from John
lockl and, Ki ng of Engl and, i n 1 1 99. Al l are united un
der t he Grand Consei l de Bordeaux.
54
1
f
'
!
'
The regi ons above are but a part
of the Department of the Gi ronde,
the l argest i n France. The wines
produced i n the Department may be
cal led "Bordeaux" i f certai n
mi ni mum requirements are met.
THE FIRST GREAT GROWHS of Bordeaux, ei ght reds
and one whi te, are consi dered by many connoi sseurs
to be t he greatest wi nes i n the worl d and the peers of
the Grand Crus of Burgundy. These wi nes take several
years to devel op. They are usual l y aged from two to
three years i n t he cask and an addi ti onal fve years
or so i n t he bottl e. I n the great vi ntage years t hey may
need a decade to reach thei r peak, and wi l l then hol d
i t, conti nui ng to devel op more subtl e nuances for an
other t en years or more. These wi nes are rare, much
sought after, and as a resul t, qui te costl y.
These great chateaux wi nes are l i sted wi th t hei r di s
tri ct, commune, and the average yearl y producti on i n
cases ( at 1 2 bottl es t o a case} .
Haut-Bri on
lafte-Rot hschi l d
Latour
Mouton- Rothschi l d
Margaux
Cheval - Bl anc
Ausone
Petrus
d' Yquem
56
Graves, Pessac 1 0, 000 cases
Medoc, Pauil/ac 1 5, 000 cases
Medoc, Pauil/ac 1 6, 000 cases
Medoc, Pauillac 1 1 , 000 cases
Meoc, Margaux 1 2, 000 cases
St. Emilion 1 2, 000 cases
St. Emilion 3, 000 cases
Pomerol 2, 500 cases
Sautenes 9, 000 cases
L i ke O fai ry-tal e castl e, t he bat
t l ements and ivy-cover<d tow
ers of the Chateau d'Yquem
r i s e above the pl ai n, domi nat
i ng t he countrysi de as i ts ex
traordi nary wi ne domi nates the
Saut ernes di stri ct. Thomas Jef
ferson, a great wi ne connoi sseur
of hi s t i me, prai sed i t as "t he
best white wi ne of France. " I t
i s the onl y Bordeaux whi te
awarded the cl assi fcat i on of a
Fi rst Great Growth.
THE MDOC, a n arrow tri an gl e
of l and extendi ng northward
from the ci ty of Bordeaux, is
consi dered t he greatest wi ne
di strict i n t he worl d. I I pro
duces more wi nes of hi gh qual
i ty t han any other, t he best of
them from t he southern port i on
cal l ed "Haul Medoc. " The wi nes
are someli mes l abel ed Haut
Medoc, more often under t he
name of t he communes of Mar
gaux, St. Julien, Pauil/ac, or
St. Estephe, and most often
under the name of the chateau.
Margaux wi nes are bi g and
f ul l , need several years t o ma
ture and ar e s uperi or com
pani ons to meat di shes and
turkey. Some of its best cha-
teaux:
Brane- Cantenac
Conte merle
Chasse-Spleen
Giscours
Lascombes
Palmer
Rausan-Segla
Prieure-Lichine
Kirwan
Boyd-Cantenac
Marquis- de-Terme
Ville george
Sai nt-Jul ien wi nes
del icate, rel ati vel y
Some of the best:
a re l i ght,
s hort- l i ved.
Beychevel/e
Branaire- Ducru
Ducru-Beaucai//ou
Lon goa-Barton
Leoville-Barton
LaTour-Cornel
Leoville-Poylerre
Belgrave
Moulin- Riche
The Chateau Pi chon- Longuevi l l e,
an exampl e of beauti ful arc hi
tecture of t he Medoc di stri ct.
Pauil l ac wi nes are l ong- l ived
and renowned for t hei r bal ance.
Al ong wi t h the th ree Fi rst
Great Growths of t hi s com
mune ar e these outstandi ng
chateaux:
Duhart-Milon
Lynch- Sages
Pichon- Longuevil/e
Pontet-Canet
Haut-Batail/ey
Haut-Bages-Liberal
Calve-Croizet-Bages
Pedesclaux
La Couronne
Batail/ey
Grand-Puy-Lacoste
Clerc-Milon-Mondon
Sai nt-Estephe wi nes are consi d
ered the f ul l est wi nes of the
Medoc. Some of its outstandi ng
chateaux ar e:
Caton-Segur
Cos d'Estournel
Cos - labory
Phe/an-Segur
Montrose
Ormes-de-Pez
De Pez
Rachel
57
THE SAI NT-EMI LI ON wi nes were
not cl assi fed unt i l 1 955, al
t hough i ts wi nes were famous
as far back as t he 4th cen
t ury. I t i s pl anted wi th over
1 6,000 acres of vi nes and today
produces more hi gh qual ity
wi nes than any ather di vi si on.
The wi nes are sturdy, generous,
and many are pl easant when
young. The great chateaux bot
t l i ngs of t hi s divi si on ore the
equal s of the Medocs.
The Premiers Grands Crus of St.
Emi l i on i ncl ude:
Beausejour-Fagouet
Belair
Canon
Figeac
Pavie
Cheval-Blanc
Ausone
Clos Fourtet
In addi ti on to the dozen First
Great Growt hs produced from
its vi neyards, St.

mi l i on has
some si xty-odd Great Growths,
and al most a thousand wi nes
whi ch are cl assi fed as Pri nci pal
and Lesser Growths.
ENTRE-DEUX-MERS i s one of the
maj or di vi si ons of Bordeaux. I ts
name, meani ng "between two
seas is a s l i ght mi snomer, as
i t i s l ocated between two riv
ers, the Garonne and the Dor
dogne. I t produces a vast
a mount of whi te wi ne, a l most
ten mi l l i on gal l ons i n a good
year, whi ch i s i nexpensi ve and
of good everyday qual i ty. The
red wi nes of t hi s di vi si on are
sol d as Bordeaux or as Bordeaux
Superieur.
58
POMEROL wi nes are not yet of
fci al l y cl assi fed. Chateau Petrus
i s recogni zed as the Great
Growth of the regi on wi th t he
fol l owi ng ch6t eaux rated close
behi nd:
Beauregard
Certan-Girauc
Certan-ce-May
Gazin
La Consei//ante
La Croix
Lafeur-Petrus
Lagrange
Vieux-Chateau-Certan
Latour-Pomerol
l'iglise Clinet
I'Evangile
Petit-Village
Nenin
Rougef
rotanay
La . Pointe
There are some twa hundred
pri nci pal growths of the Pomerol
regi on i n addi ti on to those l i st
ed above. These wines are gi ven
t he appel ati ons Pomerol and La
lande de Pomerol.
SAUTERNES AND BARSAC pro
duce the sweet ri ch gol den
whi t e wi nes of Bordeaux. By
defn i ti on t here is no French
"Dry Sauternes. " The average
producti on of the di strict is
about 300,000 cases a year. The
Sauternes and Barsac di strict i s
a stri ctl y del i mi ted area con
s isti ng of the fol l owi ng fve
townshi ps: Prei gnac, Bommes,
Forgues, Barsac, and Sauternes.
The vi neyards were cl assi fed
i n 1 855 wi th the great Chateau
d'Yquem cl assed as the onl y
Fi rst Great Growt h. El even
Fi rst Growths are l i sted, and
twelve Second Growths. Some
of the best known are these
chateaux:
La Tour-Blanche
Lafaurie-Peyraguey
Rabaud-Sigalas
Climens
Arche
Filhot
Suau
Over three hundred Mi nor
Growths are al so l i sted, some
as Chateau, some as Crus, and
s ome as Clos, whi l e a few are
l i sted as Domai nes.
FRONSAC i s a relatively smal l
di strict of Bordeaux produci ng
about 400,000 gal l ons of ro
bust wi ne s i mi l ar, but of sl i ght l y
l ess fnesse t han the Pomerol s.
The best bear t he appel l ati on
Cotes-Canon-Fronsac, and a
sl i ghtl y l ower grade carry
Cotes-de-Fronsac on the l abel .
The combi ned total produced
from thi s di stri ct is sl i ghtl y over
one hundred Pri nci pal Growths.
These wi nes have not yet been
ofci al l y cl assi fed.
GRAVES i s one of t he l arger
districts of Bordeaux, produci ng
an average of two mi l l i on gal
l ons a year. About one quarter
of this amount i s red wine, t he
rest i s whi t e. The Chateau
Haul-Bri an, t he greatest among
the red wi nes produced i n the
di strict, was cl assi fed i n 1 855
with the Medacs, and al l the
other wi nes were i gnored u nti l
they were at l ast cl assi fed in
1 953 and 1 959.
There are thi rteen cl assi fed
red wi nes of Graves, i ncl udi ng
Haul-Bri an. Same of the better
known chateaux of the di stri ct
are l isted below:
Bouscault
Carbonnieux
Domaine de Chevalier
La Mission-Haut-Brion
Smith*Haut-Laftte
La Tour-Haut-Brion
Olivier
Pope-Clement
Haut-Bailly
There are ei ght cl assi fed while
wi nes of Graves:
Bouscault
Carbonnieux
Domaine de Chevalier
Couhins .
La T our-Martillac
Laville-Haut-Brion
Malartic-LagravUtre
Olivier
There are over four hundred
other Pri nci pal Growths i n the
Graves di strict. Some of these
produce only red wi ne, some
produce only whi te, whi l e a
large number produce both red
and whi te wi ne.
THE COTES DE BL YE i s the re
mai ni ng large di stri ct of Bor
deaux, located on the ri ght
bank of t he Gi ronde estuary,
opposi te the Medoc. I t produces
about four mi l l i on gal l ons of
average to medi ocre qual ity
wine, mostl y whi le. The best
grades, ei ther red or whi te
are sol d as Premieres Cotes de
Blaye. The others are usual l y
l abel ed Bordeaux Blanc, and
Bordeaux Rouge. I n mos t years
the red is better than the white.
59
B U RGU NDY
For more t han 2, 000 years t he Burgundi ans have
tended t hei r vines, proud i n the knowl edge that t hei r
wi nes are among the very greatest i n the worl d. The
regi on i s not l arge, and the amount of wi ne made i s
rel ati vel y s mal l . I t amounts t o l ess t han 2% of the total
French producti on.
Al most hal f of the wi ne produced i s Beaujol ai s. A
thi rd is good honest wi ne of no great di sti nction . The
remai ni ng one-fft h, or a l i ttl e more than fve mi l l i on
gal l ons, i s the total producti on of al l t he great wi nes
such as the Chabl i s, Chamberti ns, Cortons, Montra
chets, Meursaul ts, Pommards, etc. , sought by gourmets
al l over the worl d.
The two pri nci pal grapes produci ng t he great wi nes
are Pi not Noi r and Chardonnay, both h avi ng a very
l ow yi el d of wi ne per acre. The Gamay is the grape of
Beauj ol ai s. Thi s grape is a more generous bearer, but
i t i s pl anted al most excl usivel y i n the Beauj ol ai s regi on .
The character of Burgundi an wi nes, whether red or
whi te, vari es from one vi neyard t o another. Each wi ne
i s a t r ue i ndi vi dual , bei ng qui te di sti nct from i t s nei gh
bor. Whi l e t hi s di sti nctiveness ofers t he wi ne l over a
wi de spectrum of taste, it does not permi t much scope
i n the way of general i zations about the characteri sti cs
of the wi nes.
The great red Burgundi es have an unsur passed com
bi nati on of ful l ness and fnesse wi th characteri sti cs of
war mt h, bouquet, frui ti ness and favor al l present i n ex
qui si te bal ance. The great white Bur gundi es are dry,
cl ean and fresh tasti ng. They are al so remar kabl y ful l
and beautiful ly bal anced. Burgundi es have been favo
rites of gourmets for years and years .
60
CHABL I S
COTE
Te Maconnais and Beauj ol ai s
regi ons overl ap sl i ghtl y. The
famous twin vi l l ages of Poui l l y
and Fui sse ore at the southern
tip of the Moconnoi s, and the
Beauj ol ai s vil l ages producing
the outstandi ng wi nes range from
St. Amour south to Brouilly.

{
MACONNAI S
BURGUNDY is di vi ded i nto fve maj or wi ne-growi ng
areas : Chablis, separated from t he l ong narrow stri p
of the Cote d' Or, some seventy mi l es nort hwest of
Di j on; t he Cote de Nuits, the home of the great Cher
berti n, Vougeot, and Vosne-Romanee; the Cote de
Beaune, with its share of great names; t he ti ny Cote
Chalonnaise, and further south its l ar ge nei ghbor, the
M&connais. At t he southernmost poi nt l i es the regi on of
the ever-popul ar and abundant Beaujolais.
CHABLIS i s a wi ne name appropri ated by eNery
wi ne-produci ng country in the worl d for every possi bl e
type of white, and even pi nk, wi ne. True Chabl i s i s one
of t he worl d' s most di sti nctive wi nes. I ts taste defes
descri pti on and i s so unusual that some who l i ke the
i mi tati ons may fnd the real thi ng too much for t hem.
Grand Cru Chablis i s a long
l asti ng, st rong wi ne. It has a
greeni sh cast when young, be
comi ng gol den- green wi th age.
I t comes from onl y seven smal l
vi neyards: Bougros, Les Preuses,
Vaudesir, Grenouil/es, Va/mur,
Les Clos, and 8/anchot.
Premiers Crus are a httl e l ess
i ntense than t he Grands Crus,
s l ightl y J ess al cohol i c, and cor
respondi ngly J ess i mpressive i n
favor and aroma. Some of the
best are: Montee de Tonnerre,
Cote de Lechet, Monts de Mi
lieu, Fourchau me, Vaillons, Beau
roy, Vaucoupin, Vosgros, and
les Fourneaux.
Somewhat Jesser wi nes bear
the Chablis appel lati on wi thout
a vi neyard name. These are very
good wi nes but a step down i n
character and strengt h from t he
Premi ers Crus.
Fi nal ly there i s the Petit Cha
blis produced i n the outs ki rts of
the area. I t i s pl easant but un
di sti ngui shed, often aci d, and
weaker i n favor and strengt h.
THE COTE DE NUllS, ra ngi ng from Fi xi n in the north
to Premeaux i n the south, has some of the worl d' s
greatest r ed wi nes. The fnesse and vel vety warmth of
i ts Grands Crus are consi dered uti mate perfection by
many gour mets. Very l ittl e whi te wi ne i s made but i t
shares t he qual ity of t he presti gi ous reds .
The Grands Crus o f the Cote de
Nuits i ncl ude: Le Chamberlin,
Chombertin-Cios de Beze,
Chormes-Chambertin, and si x
others beari ng the name of the
vi neyard fol l owed by t he magi c
name of Chamberli n; C/os de
Tart; Les Bonnes Mares; Clos
de Ia Roche; St. Denis; Les Mu
signy; Les Petits Musigny; C/os
de Vougeof; Les Echezaux; Les
Grands Echezaux; La Tache; Le
Richebourg; La Romanee-Conti;
La Romanee; and Romanee-St.
Vivant.
Premiers Crus abound on t hi s
northern end of the Gol den
Slope and many of t hem come
very close to the qual i ty of
t hei r nei ghboring Grands Crus.
The wi nes of Fixin deserve to
be better known. They bear a
strong resembl ance to thei r
more famous neighbor, Gevrey-
Chamberlin. In the l atter town
s hi p there are about a dozen
Premier Cru vi neyards. Morey
St. Denis has about twice as
many. In Chambol/e-Musigny
there are two vi neyards whose
names are expressi ve of t he
wi nes produced, Les Charmes
and Les Amoureuses. A score
of other vi neyards, l ess poeti cal
l y named, al so produce wi nes
of great charm and di sti ncti on .
So much of Vougeot and Vosne-
Romanee is t aken up by Grands
Cr us t hat one can tend t o forget
the superb wi nes of surroundi ng
vi neyards. The wi nes of Pre
meaux are mar keted under t he
name of t he l ar ger commune of
Nuits - St. Georges. The wi nes
are bi g and of very hi gh and
consi stent qual ity. At t hei r best
they beor a strong resembl ance
t o the Chambert i ns.
63
THE COTE DE BEAUNE produces, in addi t i on to t he
super b r eds typi cal of the Cote d' Or, t he great Bur
gundi an whi tes of Carton and Montrachet. From t he
dul l l i ttl e spa of Santenay, whose good but rat her un
di sti ngui shed wi nes are overshadowed by the spectacu
l ar ones to t he nort h, to the ti ny vi l l age of Pernand
Vergel esses, Premi er Cru vi neyards crowd the sl opes.
The Grands Crus begi n at
Al oxe-Corton wi th t he greot
vi neyards of Carton- Charle
magne: Le Carton; Les Chaumes;
Le Clos du Roi; Les Perrieres;
Les Renardes; Les Meix; Les
8ressandes, ond several others.
I n Pul i gny-Montrachet we fnd:
Le Montrachet; Chevalier-Mon
trachet; and Batard-Montrachet.
Premiers Crus are everywhere,
the best usual l y al ongsi de the
Grands Crus vi neyards. Many
of these wi nes are sol d at the
annual Hospi ces de Beaune
auct i on t hat i s a tradi t i on of
the regi on. Both reds and whites
are forceful , memorabl e wi nes,
and cl assed among the best i n
Burgundy.
THE CHALONNAIS and THE MACONNAIS a re t he
s mal l est and l argest sl opes, respectivel y, i n Burgundy.
As the demand for Burgundy wi ne has i ncreased, t he
wi nes of these two l ess di sti ngui shed regi ons have
hel ped fl l t he need. The best of t he Chal onnai s, the
.
red Mercurey and the white Montagny, have won
meri ted approval . The pl ai n, honest wi nes of Macon
have al so come i nto thei r own . At the southern end of
t he Maconnai s is t he remar kabl e di stri ct of Pouilly
Fuisse and its Chardonnay whi te wi nes.
64
THE BEAUJOLAI S REGI ON, much hi l l i er than the
Cote d' Or, i s t he souther nmost part of Burgundy. I ts
grani ti c and cl ayey soi l works a subtl e mi racl e on the
Gamay gr ape, whi ch i s vi rtual l y outl awed i n the rest of
Bur gundy. The resul t i s t he del i ghtful , frui ty, l i ght wi ne
so popul ar everywhere. I t i s now t he fas hi on to dri nk
t h e wi ne very young, but many connoi sseurs con si der
that the better Beauj ol ai s are at thei r peak wi t h some
agi ng, i n t he bottl e as wel l as i n the barrel .
THE BEST BEAUJOLAI S are
those beari ng t he names of the
fol l owi ng ni ne vi l l ages : Broui /ly;
Cote-de-Brouilly; Chenas; Chi
roubles; Ffeurie; Julienas; Mou
lin- a- Vent; Morgan; and St.
Amour. I n good years these wi l l
have di sti nct characteri sti cs set
ting them apart from the
oceans of mare ordi nary Beau
j ol ai s. There are 26 ather vi l
l ages produci ng better- t han-av
erage qual ity wi ne, and these
are cl assi fed as Beaujolais
Villages, enti tl ed to that appel
l ati on an t he l abel .
Fl euri e and Chi roubl es are t he
most l usci ous and t he l i ghtest.
Morgan i s l ongest l i ved.
Juli enas has body and vi gor.
Moul i n-a-Vent, consi dered by
many the "best" Beauj ol ai s, i s a
dark, strong wi ne, and has a
reputati on for very good keep
i ng qual i t i es.
St. Amour i s l i ght and fragrant .
Broui l ly and Cote-de-Broui l ly
are grapey and ri ch.
Chenas i s t he strongest.
Beauj ol ai s Superi eur i s a good
grade of wine wi th a bit more
al cohol i c content than t he ordi
nary vari ety, 1 0% as agai nst
9 /o , mi ni mum.
Good ordi nary Beauj ol ai s i s
a very pl easant wi ne, al l too
easy to gul p down. I t makes up
a l arge port i on of t he 1 5 mi l l i on
gal l ons produced yearl y.
AL S AC E
The fne wi nes of Al sace, the anci ent border provi nce
of France, deserve to be better known . The cl i mate
and soil are very si mi l ar to those of the nei ghbori ng
Rhi ne val l ey vi neyards, and even t he g rape vari eti es
are the s ame, wi th a few excepti ons . Whi l e the Ger
man vi ntner tries for sweetness, the Al sati an l ooks for
strengt h and body. He may be maki ng a "Germani c"
wi ne, but he makes i t t he French way. Hi s i s a wi ne t o
accompany t he super b and savory cui si ne of Al sace,
one of France' s great gastronomi c regi ons.
Unl i ke t hose of ot her wi ne regi ons of France, the
wi nes ar e usual l y named after t he vari ety of grape
used. The pl ace- name i s secondary.
THE VI NEYARDS stretch al ong a
narrow st ri p, run n i ng al most due
north-south for 70-odd mi l es. The
s mal l central port i on, between
Guebvi l l er and Ri beouvi l l e, pro
duces the fi nest wi nes. Al most
al l Al sati an wi ne is wh i le; pl us
some rose and gris.
THE CHIEF VARI ETI ES of grapes
ar e: Ri esl i ng; Gewirztrominer;
Pi not Gris, or Tokay d' Alsace;
Sylvaner; Muscat d'Aisace; and
Pinot Blanc.
k P P | | k T | 0 8 k k 0 0 0 8 I 8 0 | |
0rW
teziu irtttrr|Mtiem rit t'utm tetztt
66
THE FAMOUS WI NE TOWNS,
often on t he l abel fol l owi ng t he
vari etal nome, ore: Ri quewi hr,
Berghei m, Ammerschwi hr, Ri
beauvi l l e, Kaysersberg, and
Guebwi l ler.
The AlsDti an Riesling i s a dry,
fresh-tast i ng, fruity wi ne capabl e
of great f nesse.
Gewirztrami ner, O very spi cy
whi te, is strong in bouquet and
taste. I t i s, wi t h Chabl i s, one of
the two most i ndi vi dual -tast i ng
French whi te wi nes.
Sylvaner, best when young, i s
a l i ght, fresh whi te wi ne.
Tokay D'Aisace, no rel ati on to
Hungari an Tokay, i s a ful l -bod
i ed dry or sl i ghtl y sweet wi ne.
Pi nal Bl anc fesembl e8 the Syl
vaner, but has more body.
Zwicker is a bl end of great
and common vari eti es.
Edelzwicker is a bl end of great
or 1 1 nobl e" vari eti es onl y.
P ROVE N C E
The wi nes of Provence refect t he character of thi s re
gi on of gai ety and sunshi ne, the l and of the trouba
dours and t he Courts of love. Wi t h i t s sun- drenched
sl opes faci ng t he Medi terranean, Provence stretches
from Marsei l l e t o Ni ce. About 1 50 mi l l i on gal l ons of
wi n e ore made i n t hi s regi on every year . Much of t he
wi ne i s rose, rated among t he best i n France. The reds
bear some resembl ance to I t al i an wi nes, and are l i vel y
and heady. The whi tes have a qual ity descri bed as
"tarpaul i n edged wi th l ace. "
A profusi on of grape vari eti es are used i n maki ng
Provencal wi nes . The most practi cal i ndi cati on of qual
ity i s t he pl ace- name.
BANDOL, a smal l fshi ng vi l
l age, l ends i ts name to an area
of about 300 acres of vi neyards
produci ng some 1 00,000 gal l ons
of most l y red and rose, wi t h
some whi te. They are typi cal l y
pl easant and vi gorous.
CASSI S, another l i ttl e seaport,
hal fway between Bandol and
Marsei l l e, makes t he mos t re
nowned rose and whiie, t he
i deal compani ons for t he
bouillabaisse of Marsei l l e.
BELLET, j ust a few mi l es north
east of Ni ce, grows its wi nes
i n a fi nty soi l whi ch i mparts a
del i ght ful taste to t he reds,
roses and whi tes made there.
PALETTE, near Aixen Provence,
al so produces red, rose, and
whi te wi nes. The whi tes ar e
among the bes t i n t he regi on.
COTES DE PROVENCE i s the l e
gal appel l at i on of s l i ghtl y l esser
wi nes t han t he four above, al
t hough t hey are very pl easant
and of good qual ity. I f t hey
meet t he proper standards they
bear the V. D. Q.S. ofci al stamp.
The l etters stand f or Vins Deli
mites de Quolite Superieure, or
"Del i mi ted Wi nes of Superi or
Qual i ty. " Th i s cl assi fcati on i s
not l i ght l y gi ven and i s a rea
sonabl e guarantee of a secon
dary range of t he better wi nes.
tw1
COTES E PNOVEMCE
MOS
:.
8PtttcAzo C
67
T H E R H O N E VAL L E Y
The fast-fowi ng Rhone, a s it cut its val l ey from Vienne
t o Avi gnon, created t he si t e of some of t he fnest vi ne
yards i n southern France. The vi neyards fal l i nto a
nort hern and a southern group. I n t he north, frui t trees
are i nterspersed wi th the vi nes; i n t he south, ol i ve trees
add a touch of s i l ver to t he ri otous vi ne col ors .
The Rhone wi nes are made from a great number of
g ra
p
e v ari eti es; Chatea uneuf- du- Pa
p
e i s a bl end of
t hi rteen ! The great reds can reach vel vety smoothness
and g reat depth of favor, the whi tes can be exqui sitel y
del i cate and yet heady.
Too often Rhone wi nes are not kept l ong enough t o
reach t hei r ful l maturity, whi ch often takes a ful l dec
ade. They ar e general l y cheaper t han other g reat
French wi nes and ar e often a bargai n by compari son .
COTE ROTI E mean s "roasted
s l ope," and i ts grapes, Syrah
and Viagnier, sun t hemsel ves on
the steep terraces. Its two parts,
the Cote Brune and the Cote
Bl onde, were named after t he
brunette and t he bl onde daugh
t er s of t he origi nal owner. The
sl opes, l egend has i t , t ook on
the characteristics of thei r
comel y namesakes.
The wi ne i s red, though a
l i ttl e whi t e Viognier is added
to t he Syrah to add fnesse.
Chateau Gri l let, rated among
the besl of t he Rhone Val l ey' s
whi te wi nes, i s - the smal l est
French vi neyard havi ng i ts own
Appellation Controlee. I t i s dry,
f ul l , and wel l bal anced. The
grape used i s the Viognier.
68
CONDRI EU' S heavi l y perfumed
whi te wi nes, l ong pract i cal l y un
known outsi de t he di stri ct, are
becomi ng famous, and thei r
di st i nctive t aste, due to the
gr ani t i c soi l , makes t hem ac
cl ai med by con noi sseurs . The
Viognier grape i s used to make
t hi s del i cious wi ne, whi ch can
be fai rl y dry or moderatel y
sweet dependi ng on t he vi ntage
and t he vi nt ner.
HERMITAGE wi nes, both red
and wh ite, develop a soft and
vel vety bi gness wi th agi ng. The
red wi ne grape i s the Syrah,
the whi te, mostl y Marsanne.
The red forms a heavy sedi
ment i n agi ng, and shoul d be
decanted. The whi te i s one of
t he l ongest-l i ved dry whites.
The vi neyards are among the
ol dest i n France. St. Patri ck i s
reputed to have pl anted vi nes
t here when he came to Gaul .
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE i s one
of the Cotes du Rhone' s fnest
red wi nes. A l i ttl e whi te wi ne is
al so made, very di st i nctive and
pl easant but rel ati vel y unknown.
Unl i ke other Rhone wi nes,
Chateauneuf-du-Pape i s a bl end
of 1 3 grape vari eti es. I t varies
therefore from grower to grow
er, each havi ng h is own form
ul a for hi s bl end, wi t hi n the
most stri ngent regul ati ons i n
France. Some of t he outstandi ng
vi neyards of Chateauneuf-du
Pape are: The Domai nes of
Fines Roches, de Ia Nerthe, de
Na
l
ys, de Saint-Prefert, and des
Senechaux; t he C/os-Saint-Jean;
Chateau de Vaudieu; Chateau
Fortia; La Gardine; and Clos
des-POpes.
4fP f #M8
P 9 I 4 ! 4
w - uW
f Pt: # Pt
f !Pf M9 M M W4 w
SAI NT-PERAY is renowned for
i ts sparkl i ng wi nes, much in de
mand by the French who t hri ft
i l y substi tute them for Cham
pagne. The st i l l wh ite wi nes
have consi derabl e body and
bouquet .
TAVEL makes roses excl usi vel y.
The Grenache grape i s t he ma
j or consti tuent, and there i s l it
tle vari ati on in vi ntage years.
Tavel i s the worl d' s best- known
rose wi ne. Choteau d'Aqueria i s
probabl y the best Tavel ex
ported. Tavel s shoul d nat be
aged; they are at t hei r best be
tween one and fve years ol d.
Shown above i s a t
y
pi cal l abel
far a Tavel rose prepared for
export to a wi ne merchant i n
t he Uni ted States. Not e desi gna
t i on : Appellation Contro
l
ee.
OTHER COTES DU RHONE wi nes
of i nterest and di st i nct i on are
those of Cairanne; Rasteau; Gi
gondas; of Vaqueyras, and of
Beaumes-de- Venise. These are
al l pl ace- names subj ect Ia the
Appellation Contro/ee. The
wi nes vary a good deal ; mast
'
are roses, t he others reds and
whi tes .
69
C HAMP AG NE
The most famous wi nes i n t he wor l d, an d t he onl y ones
wi th a l egal ri ght, under French J aw, to t he name
Champagne, are grown on s ome 3 7, 000 acres i n a
stri ctl y del i mi ted area of t he ol d French provi nce of
Cha mpagn e. Sti l l wi nes are al so made but ar e not
exported.
The un i que qual ity of t he wi nes i s due i n great part
to cl i mate, t he chal ky soi l , and t he s ki l l of t he vi nt ner s.
Most Champagne i s a bl end of red and whi te vari eti es,
mostl y Pi not Noir an d Pi not Chardonnay.
Besi des t hose si mpl y l abel ed Champagne, t her e are
Blancs de Noirs, or whi t e wi n es made from bl ack
gra pes, and Bl ancs de Blancs, made fr om whi t e g rapes.
Most ar e made i n t he caves of t he bi g fr ms cut i nto
t he chal k s ubstrata under t he ci ti es of Rei ms and
Eper nay.
Vi neyard or di stri ct names ar e of much l ess i mpor
tance than t he brand name as an i ndi cat i on of qual i ty.
Vi nt age Champagnes must be tasted and approved by
an ofci al commi ttee of experts before they ar e
s hi pped. No vi nt age wi n e may be shi pped before i t i s
t hr ee years ol d.
Some of the pri nci pal Cham
pagne s hi ppers are: Ayaf a
Montebef f o- Duminy; Bollinger;
Charles Heidsieck; De Castef.
fane; Hei dsieck- Monopofe; Hen
ri ot; l rroy; Krug; Lonson; Mer
ci er; Moet et Chandan; Mumm;
Perrier-Jouet; Pol Roger; Roe
derer; Taitti nger; Veuve Cfic
quot; and Veuve Laurent-Perrier.
Champagne i s sol d in a great
vari ety of bottle si zes:
70
SI ZE
6.4 oz.
1 2. 8 oz.
16 oz.
26 oz.
2 qt s.
4 qt s.
6 qt s.
8 qt s.
1 2 qt s.
1 6 qt s.
20 qt s.
NAME
Spl i t
Tenth
Pi nt
Quar t
Magn u m
Jeroboam
Rehobaam
Methusel ah
Sal manasar
Bal t hazar
Nebuc hadnezzor
T H E L O I R E AN D O T H E R R E G I O NS
Al ong t he banks of t he beauti ful Loi re River, dotted
wi th the most pi cturesque chateaux of France, are t he
vi neyards of Vouvray, Anj ou, and Muscadet . The wi nes
ar e col l ecti vel y known as Vins de /a Loire. Al l types of
tabl e wi nes, r eds, whi tes, and roses, are made t here,
but t he best are t he sti l l whi tes. Large amounts of
s par kl i ng and semi - spar kl i ng whi tes, such as t he popu
l ar Vouvray, are al so produced.
More t han a dozen grape vari eti es are pl anted,
some excl usi vel y i n parti cul ar di stri cts. The pr i nci pal
vari eti es are : Chenin Bl anc, or Pineau de /a Loire;
Cabernet Franc; Chasse/as; Muscadet; and Sauvignon
Bl anc. The var i et al names sel dom appear on t he l abel .
THE MAJOR DI STRI CTS are:
ANJOU. Red, rase and whi te
wi nes are made t here, wi th t he
sweet wh i les defni tel y t he best.
MUSCADET. The dry whi te wi ne
bear i ng t he di st ri ct ' s name i s
fast gai ni ng popul ari ty.
TOURAI NE. Reds, whi tes, and
roses are made. The whites are
sweet or dry. Home of t he
fa med Vouvroy.
QUI NCY. The dry whi te wi ne
wi t h a very d i st i ncti ve cl ean
t ast e meri ts wi der recogni t i on.
POUI LLY-SUR-LOI RE i s the home
of Pouilly- Fume, a dry whi te
wi ne resembl i ng t he Quincy.
Chambord, one of the spl endi d
chateaux i n t he Loi re Val l ey.
OTHER REGI ONS and pl aces
wort h not i ng i ncl ude:
ROUSSI LLON, borderi ng on
Spai n, i s a maj or producer of
vin ordinaire, and t hree-quarters
of French forti fed wi nes.
JURA, between Burgundy and
Switzerl and, has great di versi ty
i n wi nes, but not great qual i ty.
SEYSSEL, a s mal l town i n the
upper Rhone Val l ey, produces
sparkl i ng wi ne of fne qual i ty.
GE R MANY
Al l t he Ger man wi nes of di sti ncti on are whi te. They are
gener al l y l i ght and fragrant, rangi ng from 9 to 1 2 per
c ent i n al cohol . The vi neyards al ong t he Rhi ne, Mosel ,
and Mai n ri vers are near the nort her nmost l i mi ts of the
c l i mate bel t for grape growi ng. Often l ocated on steep
s l opes to catch every ray of t he northern sunl i ght, t hey
are pi ctu resque but physi cal l y exhausti ng to cul ti vate.
The great wi nes made there represent a tri umph of
Teutoni c tenaci ty and ski l l pi tted agai nst overwhel m
i ng odds .
The grape vari eti es, n umberi ng l ess t han a dozen,
ar e of pri me i mportance. The Riesling i s by far the
best_ and al l great German wi nes ar e made wi th i t.
The extens i ve pl anti ngs i n the Rhei ngau and al ong t he
Mosel produc e wi nes of u n i que character. The Sylvaner
i s softer and mi l der than the Ri esl i ng, yi el di ng twi ce as
muc h per acre t han that smal l -yi el d ari stocrati c vari ety.
The Gewirztraminer, or Traminer, has fnesse and an
u n mi stakeabl e spi ci ness, quite pronounced i n German
pl anti ngs but consi derabl y di mi ni shed i n pl ant i ngs
abroad.
Th e wi ne- g rowi n g di st"ri cts, as shown on t h e map
opposi te, are : t h e Palatinate, or Pfalz, t h e l argest pro
duc er of the four maj or di stri cts; the Rheingau, the
s mal l est, but produci ng the l argest number of trul y
great wi nes; t he Rheinhessen, al most t he si ze of t he
Pfal z; and t he Mosei- Saar-Ruwer area, whi ch produces
the most del i cate wi nes i n al l Germany.
German wi ne bufs l i ke t o dri n k t he wi nes at any
ti me, not excl usi vel y wi th meal s or snacks. The wi nes
are parti cul arl y good wi t h por k Delikatessen speci al
ti es, fowl , fsh, and seafood.
72
GERMAN WI NE LAWS, t hough
stri ct, ar e aug mented by t he
qual i ty-control acti vi t i es of t he
Yerband Deutscher Naturwei n
Yersteigerer, t he German Wi ne
Associ at i on. The l aw, i n t rue
German styl e, goes i nto meti c
ul ous detai l s, someti mes bor
deri ng on t he l udi crous but gi v
ing the cons umer a l arge meas
ure of protecti on.
Kabi nett: Wi ne made onl y from
ful l y matured grapes, wi t hout
added sugar, i n l i mi t ed di s
tri cts.
Spatlese: Wi ne made from
grapes that have been " l ate
pi cked " after harvest, gi vi ng
mor e favor, frui t i ness, and
del i cacy t o t he wi ne.
Ausl ese: Wi ne made fr om onl y
t he best bunches of grapes,
` whi ch are sel ected and pressed
THE RECENT LABEL LAWS, evi -
separatel y.
denced on t he 1 972 l abel s, add Beerenaus/ese (berr sel ec-
more i nformat i on whi l e s i mpl i - li on) and Trockenbeerenaus/ese
lying i t for the consu mer.
(dry berry sel ecti on) i ndi cate
There are now t hree qual ity
that the grapes used in the wi ne
cl asses of German wi ne:
maki ng have reached t he hi gh
. Table Wi ne (Deutscher Taf
e/weinJ, s i mpl e, pl easant every
day wi nes made from approved
grape vari eti es i n del i neated
areas. The l abel shows the
name of t he regi on but not t he
vi neyard.
2. Quality Wi ne of Desi gnated
Regi ons I Qua/ititswein bestim
mler Anbaugebiete). Above
average i n qual i ty, made from
approved grope vari eti es i n
desi gnated regi ons, thi s wi ne
can carry t he name of t he vi l
l age, vi neyard, or speci fc area.
A control number, appeari ng on
t he l abel , i s assi gned by t he
stale agency.
3. Quality Wines with Speci al
Attributes I Qualititswein mit
Pradikat!. Thi s i s the hi ghest
cl assi fcat i on, granted to t he
best German wi nes. A control
number i s assi gned each wi ne
and appears on t he l abel wi t h
t hes e ot her attri butes :
74
est degree of concent rat i on of
sugar and favor.
Every qual i ty wi ne must l i st
t he bottl er IAbfillerJ, and i f
t he wi ne i s bottl ed by t he pro
ducer-owner t he l abel wi l l stal e:
Erzeugerabfill ung (bott l ed by
t he producer) and aus ei genem
Lesegut (from the producer' s
own grapes) .
A typi cal Ger man wi ne l abel
for a superi or wi ne bear i ng
t he i nformat i on requi red by t he
new l abel i ng l aws. Not e t he
control nu mber.
THE GREAT REGI ONS, fol l owed
by the most i mportant pl ace
names and t he outstandi ng vine
yards i n each regi on, are l i sted
bel ow:
THE RHEI NGAU
El tvi l l e-Sonnenberg, Lan*
gensick.
Erbach-Marcobrunn, Sie
gelsberg, Steinmorgen.
Gei senhei m-Rothenberg.
Hal l garten-Deute/sberg,
Schonell.
Hallenhei m-Steinberg,
Nussbrunnen, Wissel
brunnen.
Hoc h h ei m-Domdechaney.
Johanni s berg-Sch/oss Jo
hanni sberg, Holle, Kl aus.
Ki edri c h-GrCfenberg,
Wasser rose.
Oestr i c h-Eiserberg.
Rauent hai -Baiken, Gehrn.
Rudes hei m-Berg Brannen,
Berg Lay, Berg Burgweg,
Berg Rottland.
Wi nkei-Schloss Vollrads.
THE RHE I NHESSEN
Bi ngen-Eisel, Rochusberg,
Rosengarten .
Bodenhei m-Bock, Ebers
berg.
Di enhei m-Falkenberg,
Nackenhei m-fngelsberg,
Rothenberg.
Ni erstei n-(col l ecti ve names
are now used) .
Oppenhei m-Kreuz, Sack
trager.
THE PFAL
Bad Dur khei m-Michels
berg.
De i des he i m-Herrgottsack
er, Grai nhibel, Lei n
hohl e.
Forst-Kircheustick, Jesuit*
engarten, Freundstick.
Koni gsbach-Bender, ldig.
Ru pperts berg-Hoheburg.
Wac hen he i m-Gerimpel,
BCchef.
THE MOSEL
Bern kastei -Doktor, Lay.
Brauneberg-Juler, Fal ken
berg.
Erden-Treppchen, PrClat.
Graach-Josephshof, Him
melreich.
Pi esport-Goldtropfchen,
Lay.
Urzi g-Wirzgarten,
Schwarzlay.
Wehl en-Sonnenuhr, Non
nenberg.
Zel t i ngen*Hi mmelreich,
Schlossberg.
CONNOI SSEURS OF GERMAN WI NES who del i ght
i n t he fragr ant subtl eti es of t he great vi ntages-and
who can aford them-have a tendency t o l ook down
t hei r noses at two very popul ar wi nes, Liebfraumifch
and Moselblumchen. Nonethel ess t hese two i mports are
t he best- known German wi nes i n t he Uni ted States, and
whi l e there are a n umber of rather poor exampl es,
some certai nl y do not deserve t he contemptuous atti
tude accorded them by cri ti cs-and by wi ne snobs.
LI EBFRAUMI LCH means "Mi l k of
the Bl essed Mother, " and was
ori gi nal l y t he wi ne of Li eb
frauenki rche and Worms. The
nome i s now used for any wi ne,
or bl end, from al mos t anywhere
i n Germany. Most often i t i s a
product of Rhei nhessen or t he
Pfal z. Some s hi ppers market
. very good wi nes from Ni erstei n,
Oppen hei m, Nackenhei m, and
other regi ons as Liebfraumilch.
The name of t he shi pper, and
somet i mes t hat of t he producer,
i s the consumer's mast rel i abl e
gui de Ia t he qual i ty of t he
wi ne. Occasi onal l y a Liebfrau
mi lch l abel wi l l al so speci fy
t hat it is Spat/ese or Aus/ese,
an addi t i onal i ndi cati on of bet
ter t han average qual ity. Goad
Liebfraumilch i s very pl easant,
part i cul arl y i n s ummer when i ts
l i ght ness i s best appreci ated.
MOSELBL
0
MCHEN means "Fl ow
er of t he Mos el " and i s the
name gi ven to the l esser wi nes
of t he Mos el Val l ey. L i ke Lieb
fraumi lch, it is usual l y a bl end,
wi t h some sugar added, and
somewhat l i ghter and more fra
grant. The pri nci pal grape used
i s the Sylvaner. I t i s never es
tate-bottl ed, and t he consum
er' s best gui de t o i t s qual i ty i s
t h e n ame of t h e s hi pper.
FRANKENWEI N i s made from a
vari ety of gropes and is often
t he best buy i n t he cheaper
German wi nes. I t i s sol d i n the
stubby Bocksbeute/. The most
famous sl ope, the Steinberg,
has become synonymous wi t h
Frankenwein. The name Stein"
wein is properl y appl i ed on l y
to t he wi nes of Wurzburg, the
capi t al of t he regi on.
L U X E MB O U R G
About twenty mi l es of t he eastern border of the ti ny
Grand Duchy of Luxembourg i s formed by the Mosel l e
Ri ver as i t f. ows from France i nto Germany. The pretty,
gentl y rol l i ng l eft banks are pl anted in some 3, 000
acres of vi neyards, mostl y Riesling, Sylvaner, and El
bling. The producti on vari es dr amati cal l y from year
t o year due t o t he changeabl e nor t hern cl i mate. The
whi te wi nes resembl e bot h the Al sati an and German
Mosel s, rangi ng from l i ght and fragrant t o vel vety and
el egant . The Luxembourgers wi sel y dri n k most of t hei r
del i ci ous producti on, but more i s bei ng exported t o
t he Uni ted States, where t hese wi nes are begi nni ng t o
recei ve cri t i cal approval .
THE LABELS i ndi cate t he t h ree
types of l egal desi gnat i ons for
bottl ed Luxembourg wi nes :
1 . Vi n de Ia Moselle Luxembour
geoise, fol l owed by t he grape
vari ety, categori zes t he wi nes of
ordi nar qual i ty.
2. Place-name, wi th vi neyard
name and grape vari ety, desi g
nates t he mi ddl e category.
3. Appellation Complete, whi ch
corresponds to the French Ap
pellation Controlee, i s reserved
for t he fnest wi nes. In t hi s cote-
gory the label must show the
vi ntage year, pl ace- name, grope
vari ety, vi neyard, and the
grower' s name and address.
There are ot her exacti ng con
trol s and ofci al ta;t i ng tests
to ensure cons i stent qual i ty.
THE BEST WI NES are us ual l y
those made of:
Ri esl i ng-Di st i ncti ve, ful l and
el egant. From Wormel dange,
Ehnen, Wi ntrage, Schengen, and
Remi ch.
Trami nerFul l , vel vety, and
s pi cy. From Ahn, Wel l enst ei n,
Schwebsi ngen, and Machtum.
Ri esl i ng and Sylvaner-Li ght,
wi th a s l i ght Muscat taste. From
Wel l enstei n and Remerschen.
Pi nots-Ful l and generous
wi nes. They i ncl ude Auxrrois,
Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris va
ri eti es. From Wel l enstei n, Schen
gen, and Remers chen.
77
I TAL Y
I t i s sai d that I tal y i s one vast vi neyar d. Smal l er than
Cal i for ni a, i t produces more wi ne t han any other coun
try i n t he wor l d, and is the t hi rd l argest exporter . I tal
i ans are nat ural wi ne dr i nkers, wi th a per capi ta con
s umpti on of al most 30 gal l ons a year . Most I tal i ans
dri n k t hei r wi ne casual l y, j ust as casual l y as many of
t hei r vi nt ner s grow the grapes and make t he wi ne.
But t her e ar e an i ncreasi ng number of excepti ons to
t hi s easy-goi ng atti tude, and I tal i an wi nes are getti n g
better al l t h e ti me. I mproved control s have hel ped.
Most of the bi l l i on gal l ons produced each year i s
qui t e ordi nary, muc h of i t pl easant, s ome excel l ent,
and a l i ttl e whi ch can be cl assed as great.
Al most al l I tal i an wi nes are named after t he grape
vari ety used, the name of the town, or t he di stri ct of
or i gi n . Label i ng is usual l y dependabl e, except for
vi nt age i ndi cati on . The I tal i ans remai n casual about
vi ntage years, consi deri ng t hem of l i ttl e i mportance.
Car eful l y made wi nes ar e more subj ect t o di scerni bl e
vari ati ons from year t o year t han t he more or di nary
wi nes made wi th typi cal I tal i an abandon.
The i mportant wi ne regi ons of I tal y i ncl ude: the
Abruzzi, on the Adri at i c; Apulia, the great southern
pl ai n; Calabria; t he Campani a around Napl es; Latium;
Lombardy; Piedmont, home of some s uperb wi nes; Um
bria, Trentino- Aito Adige, Tuscany, Veneto, and SiCily.
Si nce one out of every ei ght acres has vi nes on i t, the whol e map
of I tal y, on t he fac i ng page, coul d be col ored wi t h a vi nous t i nt.
The pl ace of ori gi n of the better- known wi nes is i ndi cated by t he
numeral s keyed to the l i st of thei r names. The pri nci pal regi ons
are s hown i n capi tal l etters. A few of t he fa mous I tal i an ci t i es are
shown for the reader' s ori entati on.
78
Hb
bbbK-KMLWM
WlMb:
Agl i ani co del Vul ture
Aleotico Z
Asti Spumonte 3
Barbera 3
Borboresco 3
Bardol i no 4
Barolo 3
Castelli Romani 5
Chianti 6
Cinque Terre Z
Est! Estll Esti ll 8
Froscati 5
Gottinara 9
Lac rima Christi 0
Lambrusco
Marsala Z
Moscato 3
Orieto 8
Songiovese 4
Soave 4
Volpolicella 4
Verdicchio 1 5
1 3

GOVERNMENT CONTROLS, i nsti tuted i n I t al y i n 1 963,
have gone a l ong way toward correct i ng t he non
chal ant attitude toward nomencl ature whi ch prevai l ed
unt i l then. The l ack of safeguar ds for pl ace- names,
combi ned wi th haphazard methods of vi ti cul ture and
vi ni cul t ure. had rel egated I tal i an wi nes t o a l ower
status than they deserved. Today t he new control s,
both govern ment al and sel f- i mposed, and a more seri
ous attitude toward wi ne maki ng, are bui l di ng up the
reputati on of I tal i an wi nes at home and abroad.
Three denomi nat i ons o f oro go n
control s have been establ i shed
i n I tal y:
1. Si mpl e Denomi nazione di
Ori gi ne Si mp/ice i s for ordi nary
wi nes grown tradi t i onal l y in a
decreed area. Thi s carri es no
qual ity rat i ng.
2. Controlled Denomi nazione di
Ori gi ne Controllata i s reserved
for wi nes meet i ng st i pul ated
standards of qual ity.
3. Controlled and Guaranteed
Denomi nazione di Origine Con
trollata e Garantita i s gi ven
onl y to fne wi nes meeti ng qual
i ty and pri ce standards set by
govern ment agenci es. Once
awarded, t he reci pi ent i s under
cont i nuous control .
VOLUNTARY CONTROLS are ex
erci sed t hrough the Nati onal I n
sti tute f or t he I ns pecti on of De
nomi nati on of Ori g i n ( l nstitu
tione del Comi toto Nozionale
per Ia Tutela delle Dominazione
di Origine}. For exampl e, the
l nstituto Nazionale per I' Espor
tazi one I I . N. E. J awards t hi s
f ami l i ar s eal to I t al i an wi nes
authori zed for export.
80
Contrary to popul ar noti on,
al l red I t al i an wi ne does not
taste l i ke Chiant i . There i s a
weal th of taste di ferences rang
i ng from t he maj est i c Barolo
t hrough the subtl eti es of aged
Chianti Classico to t he l i ght,
fragrant Valpolicella. The roses
are l i ght and fresh, del i ghtful
when young.
The wh i tes run a great gamut
of taste, dry through sweet,
some l i ght , some bi g- bodi ed.
Besi des t he famed Vermouths,
excel l ent and un i que dessert
wi nes, wi th a ful l range of taste
characteri sti cs, are al so made i n
I tal y. Spar kl i ng (spumante}, and
s l i ghtl y spar kl i ng (frizzante)
wi nes have a speci al charm.
Some of t he best wi nes of I tal y,
l i sted by regi on, i ncl ude:
ABRUZZI-Montepulciano, red;
Trebbiano, whi te.
CALABRI A Ciro di Calabria,
red; Greco di Girace, sweet
whi le.
CAMPANI A-Falerno, red and
wh i te; Lacrima Christi, whi te.
EMI LI A-ROMAGNA -lombrusco
and Sangiovese, both reds.
LATI UM-The wi nes of the Cas
telli Romani, dry whi tes, are
consi dered among I tal y' s best.
Frascati and Est! Est! Est! are
the best known.
LOMBARDY-Sasse//o, Grume//o,
Fracia and I nferno are al l reds.
Chiarello i s an outstandi ng rose.
LUCANI A ( or Basi l i ti ca)-One of
the best wi nes of southern I tal y
i s t he red Agl i an i co del Vul t ure.
PI EDMONT-Th e great Barolo
and Barboresco are I t al y' s fnest
reds. Freise, Barbera, Gattinara,
Grignolino and Nebbiolo, al l
cousi ns t o t he great pai r, are
products of thi s fne wi ne re
gion, al ong with the sparkl i ng,
sweet Asti Spumante.
TRENTI NO-ALTO ADI GE-Mostl y
wh i tes made of Ri esl i ng and
Traminer vari eti es.
TUSCANY-Home of the true
and best Chianti and t he sweet
wh ite Vin Santo.
UMBRI A-Orvieto, cons idered
the best wh i te i n I tal y, i s now
made dry as wel l as sweet.
SARDI NI A-The best are the
Muscats and Malvasias, sweet or
fortifed dessert wi nes.
SI CI LY-Wh i te Mamertino, red
Faro, whi te and red Corvo di
Casteldaccia and Etna. The best
i s t he superb Marsala.
VENETO-The best of the re
gi on are t he wi nes of Verona,
t he red Valpolicella, Valpan
tena, and Bordo/ina, and the
s mooth dry wh ite Soave.
ELBA-The sweet an d generous
Aleatico di Portoferraio i s a
great dessert wi ne.
8 1
SPAI N
Al most four mi l l i on acres, or better than one-tenth of
t he total area of Spai n, i s pl anted i n vi neyards . The
yi el d i s approxi matel y 500 mi l l i on gal l ons of wi ne each
year . Thi s i s a rel ati vel y smal l yi el d i n proporti on to t he
total acreage. The r eason for t he l i mi ted producti on
i s t he country' s ari d cl i mate.
Sherry i s t he most famous Spani s h wi ne but repre
sents onl y a ti ny percentage of the total amount of
wi ne produced. I t i s a uni que wi ne, made, bl ended,
and aged by speci al processes, and i s compl etel y di f
ferent from al l other Spani s h wi nes .
The best tabl e wi nes ar e those made i n t he Rioja
di stri ct, hi gh upl and country with severe wi nters . The
reds her e are better t han t he whi t es, and both bear a
super fci al resembl ance to Bordeaux wi nes. Next to the
Ri oj as are t he wi nes of Valdepeias, a

maj or wi ne di s
tri ct south of Madri d. The regi on of Andalusia, at the
southern end of Spai n, i s t he producer of t he famed
Sherry and of t he superb Malaga_ whi ch i s no l onger
t he fas hi onabl e wi ne i t once was .
Onl y a l i ttl e spar kl i ng wi ne, cal l ed Xampan and
pronounced "Champagne, " i s produced. I t i s rat her
sweet and i s made sout hwest of Barcel ona.
Spani s h wi nes ar e usual l y i nexpensi ve, representi ng
a very good val ue for t he pri ce. Spani s h wi ne control s,
establ i s hed some years ago, are bei ng enforced more
vi gorousl y, and whi l e a certai n amount of rather i nferi or
wi nes have been exported, t he better ones are becom
i ng more and more avai l abl e. Spani ar ds are j ust as
casual as t he I tal i ans when i t comes to l abel i ng for
vi ntage years. The producer ' s name, or br and, i s the
best gui de to t he qual i ty of the wi ne.
8 2
PLACE-NAMES, establ i shed UO-
der t he regul at i ons of t he De
nominaci6n de Ori gen, are
s hown i n t he map.
ANDALUSI A-Jerez or Xeres
(Sherry); Montil l a- Moriles; M6/ a
ga; Huelva; Monzani lla; Sanl u
car de Barrameda.
CENTRAL SPAI N-La Mancha,
Noblejas; Manzanares.
EAST COAST-Malvasi a de Sit
ges; A/lela; Alicante; Tarragona;
Priorato; Valencia; Panades;
Utiei* Requena; Cheste; Conca
de Barbar6; Barcelona.
GALI CI A-Ribero; Valdeorras.
NORTHERN SPAI N-Cari iena
Rioja; Navarra
WESTERN SPAI N-fstramadura;
Rueda; Taro.
The l andscape of Spai n, one
of pi cturesque and vi ol ent con
trasts, i s refect ed i n t he great
di versi ty of i t s wi nes. Spani s h
vi nt ners ar e very s ki l l ed bl end
ers, obtai ni ng wi nes of pl easant
characteri st i cs from di feren t
vi neyards and even from di fer
ent parts of the country.
83
MUCH OF THE SPANI SH VI NE
yARD l and is parcel l ed out, and
t he nu mber of s mel l properti es
i s so great as to defy ofci al
computat i on. The smal l pl ots ore
not sui tabl e for mechani zat i on,
and most of t hei r owners are
too poor to aford more than
t he most r udi mentary form ma
ch i nes. The cooperat ive system
was i ntroduced, and there ore
now some 700 O 800 operat i ng
cooperati ves. The bul k of pro
ducti on for export i s wi ne
s hi pped i n t he cask to Engl and
and Bel gi um.
Exports of Spani sh wi nes to
the Uni ted States have grown
s i gni fcant l y i n t he post few
years but, wi th t he excepti on of
s herry, bul k wi nes are sti l l the
maj or export.
Some of the most i mporlant
Spani s h frms exporti ng t abl e
wi nes to t he New Worl d and to
other countri es are: Rene Bar
bier; J. de Berger; Bodegas Bi l
boi nos; Bodega El Faro; Bodega
Torres; Bodega Ri oj onos; Bo
degas La Ri oj a Al ta; Castel l del
Bosch; Lopez Heredi a; Marques
de Murri eta; Marques de Ri scol ;
and Momp6.
SANGRI A, a wi ne punch whose
i ngredi ents may vary at t he
whi m of t he maker, i s usual l y a
refreshi ng mi xt ure of red wi ne,
ci trus frui t j ui ces, sugar, and
soda water. A popul ar hot
weat her dr i nk i n Spai n, i t has
met wi t h great success i n th
'
e
U. S. , where several Spani sh
brands ore i mported.
TRUE SHERRY is made on l y i n t he stri ctl y del i mi ted
di stri ct around the char mi ng Andal usi an town of Jerez
de I a Fronter a. "Sherry" i s t he Angl i ci zed pronunci a
ti on of J erez. The pr i nci pal grape used i s t he Pal omi no.
Aft er fer mentati on t he wi ne i s al l owed t o r emai n i n t he
s ame vats. Ther e t he yeast causi n g t he i ni t i al fermenta
ti on for ms a fl m, cal l ed for, on t he s urface of the
wi ne, and produces a vari ety of pl easantl y odorous
products and al dehydes. The wi n e has now become
for sherry, or Fino, one of t he two maj or cl assi fcati ons
of s herry.
I f a fl m does not form, or i s prevented from for mi ng
by t he addi t i on of wi ne spi ri ts t o bri ng t he wi ne t o an
al cohol content of 1 8 % or more, i t wi l l become an
0/oroso, t he other maj or cl assi fcati on .
Both Fi nos and Ol orosos undergo a good deal of
bl endi ng and agi ng before they are ready for mar ket.
84
T HE S OL E R A S YS T E M
l
V
U
(
z

0
7
THE SOLERA SYSTEM is the
agent whereby s herri es ore si
mul taneousl y aged and bl ended.
I t creates t he u ni formi ty of qual
i ty and of t ype of t he vari ous
Spani sh s herri es t hat remai ns
consi st ent year af t er year.
Thi s 4-barrel solero operates
i n the same manner as a 5-
or 8- barrel system: The aged
wi ne is drawn I Step 1 ) from
the ol dest barrel (A). The
wi ne i s repl aced by drawi ng
from the next al der barrel
!Bl, unti l barrel A i s agai n ful l
(Step 21. Barrel B i s repl eni shed
from barrel C, and so
on up the l i ne. The
new wi ne, speci al ly bl ended
for thi s particul ar so/era,
goes i nto the top barrel .
0

L
N
U
~
Fino so/eros r emai n at about
t he some al cohol i c strengt h,
but oloroso so/eros wi l l often
reach hi gher concentrati ons, go
i ng as hi gh as 2 2 ". The fnos
ore dry and pungent, t he ol o
rosos sweet and creamy.
85
P O R T U G A L
J ust as Spai n i s popul arl y known for i ts Sher ry, Portu
gal i s known for its Port, the most famous of al l dessert
wi nes. A bare 2 % of al l Portuguese wi ne i s Port, and
mor e t han hal f of i t i s exported. Madeira, a favori te
of our Col oni al forbears, i s no l onger popul ar i n t he
Uni ted States .
The mos t i mportant tabl e wi nes are t he Vinhos
Verdes, cal l ed "green wi nes" because of t hei r fresh
l i vel i nes s; t he Daos, ful l -bodi ed red and whi t e wi nes;
Co/ares, a very pl easant l i ght red wi ne; and t he some
what sweet Bucelas, a white wi ne made near li sbon .
The Portuguese roses and spar kl i ng roses have become
very popul ar i n the United States.
The better Portuguese wi nes carry the ofci al Certi f
cate of Ori gi n, l i ke the French Appellation d Origine,
and i ncl ude: Buce/as, Carcave/os, Co/ares, Dao, Mas
cote/ de Setubal, and Verde.
THE VI NHO VERDE vi neyards
ar e mas t u nus ual i n t hat t he
vi nes grow on trees or h i gh
trel l i ses, t he l an d us e bei n g at
a h i gh premi u m.
The wi n es are l i ght, wi t h an
average al cohol cont ent between
8 and 1 1 %, ond a bi t of bub
bl y efervescence whi ch i s very
pl easant and refres hi ng. They
are begi n n i ng t o be exported i n
s i gn i fcant quanti t i es.
The Moscatel de Setubal can
onl y be made i n t he boroughs
of Setubal and Pcl mel a. A
Frenc hman once descri bed it
as " bott l ed s u n l i g ht . " It is forti
fed wi th brandy and l i ght er
t han Mal aga.
86
THE D
A
O WI NE vi nes are pro
tected by mountai n ranges
s hi el di ng t hem from t he sea
borne wi nds and t he i nl and
heat . The s ai l i s mai nl y grani t i c,
t he c l i mate for from i deal , but
t he wi nes are s moot h and
s uave. The l ul l - bodi ed r eds
hove an al cohol cont ent of 1 2 %,
a vel vety taste and a beaut i ful
ruby red col or.
The l emony-col ored whi te
wi nes are l i ght, aromat i c an d
fres h.
THE COLARES WI NES g row i n
one of t he l ovel i est t ouri st i c re
gi ons of Port ugal , wi th O range
of h i l l s on one si de and t he
Atl ant i c Ocean on t he ot her . The
vi nes grow in sondy ground,
wi th roots goi ng deepl y down
i nto very ol d slrolo. Pl ant i ng
vi nes oft en requi res di ggi ng to
a depth of ni ne to len feel. I n
addi t i on, reed screens must be
erected to protect t he vi nes
from t he wi nds bl owi ng i n
from t he Atl ant i c. The resul t
i ng wi nes hove been descri bed
as " havi ng a femi ni ne compl ex
i on but a vi ri l e energy. "
CARCAVELOS WI NES are hi gh
i n al cohol content, averagi ng
1 9%, and t hey are sel dom ex
ported from Port ugal today.
BUCELAS WI NES, rather rare
outsi de Port ugal i tsel f, are best
wel l aged, wi t h i ncreased bou
quet and ri ch gol d col or.
Granj o i s a sweet white wi ne
whose sweetness comes from the
Botrytis cinera, or nobl e rot, al
l owed to devel op on t he l at e
pi cked grapes, t he same met hod
used for Saut ernes and Spotl ese.
IMPRTBO Y
AOST| N. N| CHCL5 & C. | NC.
M8WYO=M,V ,
$LE DtSTI BOTOR9 FOR U. B A.
Al most 8 % of the arabl e l and
of Portugal i s devoted to vi ne
yards. The vari ati ons of soi l and
t he Atl anti c cl i mate produce a
great vari ety of tabl e wi nes, as
wel l as the famous forti fed
wi nes. The pri nci pal wi ne
growi ng areas are shown i n
red on the map.
PORT, by both Port uguese and Bri t i sh l aw
,
is t he
wi ne made i n the Upper Dour o regi on, forti fed by the
additi on of Portuguese grape br andy and s hi pped from
Oporto, the seaport whi ch has gi ven the wi ne its name.
Over 90 % is exported, much of it to Scandi navi a,
some to France and Engl and, and ver l i ttl e to the U. S.
THE VI NI FI CATI ON of Port dif
fers from ot her wi nes in t hat i t
i s arrested at s ome careful l y
determi ned poi nt, obaut hal fway
in the fermentati on process, by
drawi ng af the j ui ce i nto casks
contai ni ng grape brandy.
Thi s arrested fermentati on
produces a sweet wi ne wi th a
1 9 to 2 1 % al cohol content .
The fol l owi ng year the wi ne i s
sent i n Part "pi pes," casks con
tai ni ng 1 38 gal l ons, to the wi ne
l odges across the r i ver from
Oporto.
In O great year the maker
may deci de to make Vintage
Port. In that case the wi ne wi l l
be s hi pped, us ual l y t o Engl and,
and bottl ed i mmedi atel y. Vi n
t age Ports are aged i n the bot
tl e for ten to ffteen years, some
t i mes more. They are expensi ve.
WI NE NOT RESERVED for Vi nt
age Port i s bl ended and ma
tured i n oaken casks. The bl end
i ng i s a del i cate, even i ns pi red,
operati on resul t i ng i n a true-to
type wine for a parti cul ar
brand, but di ferent from every
other brand.
As t hi s wi ne ages i t frst be
comes Ruby Port, then with
more agi ng becom'es Tawny
Port, a wine of great el egance.
Port made from whi te grapes
i s, not surpris i ngly, cal l ed
White Port. Ruby and Whi te
Ports are someti mes bl ended to
gether to make Tawny Port.
True Tawny Port i s aged i n
wood to acquire great el egance.
GR E E C E
Thi s anci ent l and of wi ne has t he cl i mate and soi l to
produce wi nes that shoul d l i ve up to the l egendary
nectar s Homer prai sed. That is not t he case, however, at
present, but there i s hope that new regul ati ons and
control s, ai ded by the I nstitute of Tasters, wi l l si gnif
cantl y i mprove t he over al l qual i ty of Greek wi nes.
Gr eek wi ne makers may be di vi ded i nto t hree mai n
groupi ngs : s mal l i ndi vi dual producers; cooperati ves;
l ar ge pri vate compani es .
The Peloponnesus i s the l argest wi ne di stri ct, ac
counti ng for a quarter of the total producti on . Next in
si ze i s Attica, accounti ng for 1 5 % of the total . The
bal ance i s produced by the i sl ands of Crete, Samos,
and Santorin, and the regi on of Macedoni a.
Some of the best Greek wi nes come from t he Pel o
ponnesus, notabl y t he l usci ous Mavrodaphne. The best
whi te wi ne i n Greece i s reputed to be that of a s mal l
estate, Pallini, i n Atti ca. An outstandi ng sweet wi ne, t he
Muscat of $amos, i s made on the i sl and of t hat name.
Samos i s one of t he few pl ace- names protected by
Gr eek l aw.
RETSI NA i s a name which
seems to appear on al most every
bottl e of Greek wi ne. I t i s not
the name of a type of wi ne,
but s i mpl y means t hat the wi ne,
ei t her rose or whi te, has been
treated wi t h pi ne res i n. Te
r ed wi nes do not receive t hi s
strange favori ng.
Greeks, parti cul arl y t hos e of
the central and southern parts
of the country, seem to be gen
ui nel y fond of the taste. Those
who di sl i ke i t, here or there,
say i t remi nds them of turpen
t i ne. Touri sts 1 1 QOi ng nati ve"
profess a great l i ki ng for i t.
There are many t heori es, most
defyi ng concl usi ve proof, of
how the retsina favor i ng came
about. The most preval ent one
i s that the anci ent Greeks pre
served t hei r_ wi ne by usi ng pi ne
gum and got accustomed to t he
taste.
Those who l i ke i t say i t shoul d
be drunk cool . Those who don ' t,
say ski p i t.
89
A U ST R A L I A
The great subconti nent of Austral i a i s so uni que i n its
fauna and fora that i t i s not sur pr i si ng that Austral i an
wi nes have a di sti nct character, thei r own pecul i ari
ti es, and t hei r own vi rtues . They have str ange, won
derful names whi ch hei ghten thei r i ndivi dual i ty.
Austral i a' s wi ne hi story starts in 1 78 8 when the frst
vi nes, careful l y trans ported, were pl anted i n eart h whi ch
had n ever nouri shed any ki nd of gr ape.
As i n t he ot her new wor l d of Ameri ca t here were
fal se starts, di sasters and successes. Unti l 1 8 20 wi ne
maki ng i n Austral i a was a ri ch man' s hobby. I n t hat
year t he frst commerci al vi neyard was started by the
pi oneer i ng John Macarthur . From that moment, encour
aged by hi s s uccess, vi nes were pl anted i n the Barossa
Val l ey, i n Berri and Ruthergl en, the Swan Val l ey,
Corowa, and the Hunter, Murray, and Eden val l eys.
Al most every type of wi ne i s
produced. Because of t he ethni c
groups ori gi nal l y sett l i ng t hi s
great count ry, the proportion
of wine types produced refects
t he preferences of Angl o-Saxon
taste.
Canada and Great Bri tai n are
the best customers for Austra
l i an wi ne at present. The
Ameri can mar ket i s new but
seems promi s i ng. Unti l the mi d-
1 960' s fortifed and dessert
wi nes l ed Austral i an wine pro
ducti on , but now the lead has
been taken by tabl e wi nes, the
best wi nes made t here today.
Al most hal f the total produc
ti on i s di st i l l ed as brandy or
al cohol . Much i s used i n maki ng
t he forti fed wi nes.
90
The wi ne i ndustry i n t he
Paci fc new worl d bears a re
sembl ance to that of the
Ameri can new worl d. The Aus
tral i ans have been qui ck to
adapt tech nol ogi cal advances
and modern equi pment to t hei r
wi ne- maki ng procedures.
They, t oo, are operat i ng thei r
wi neri es and vi neyards wi th a
bal anced mi xture of t he tradi
t i onal and t he new.
As t he market for Austral i an
wi ne grows, expansi on br i ngs
more s hi ny stai n l ess st eel equi p
ment i nto handsome modern
pl ants, and new vi neyards are
pl anted wi th an eye to modern
harvest i ng and cul ti vati on .
Most new pl ant i ngs refect the
demand for more t abl e wi nes.
SOUTH
AUSTRAL I A
. ,
. ,.
, _, -.
'
'
f
NEW
SOUTH
WALES
3
1
8
'
7
6
4
1
7
-
- '
5
'

1 4
8
* 1 1 "
'"'
1 5
1 0
1 2 .
VI CTORI A 9 \
As can be seen in t he map, above, t he wi ne-growi ng regi ons
l i e al most ent i rel y i n t he southeastern earner of the conti nent. The
t wo notabl e except i ons are Swan Val l ey i n t he st at e of Western
Austral i a and Rome i n t he stale of Queensl and. The names of
the ot her di stri cts, keyed to the numbers on the map, are:
1 . Hunter Val l ey 9. Rutherg l en 1 5. Langhorne Creek
2. Raaty Hi l l Wahgunyah- 1 6. Coonawarra
3. Muswel l brook Corowa 1 7. Barossa Val l ey
4. Mudgee 1 0. Tahbi l k 1 8. Cl are
5. Murrumbi dgee 1 1 . Shepparton Waterval e
Val l ey 1 2 . Gl enrowan 1 9. Adel ai de
6. Swan Hi l l Mi l awa Metropol i t an
7. Robinval e 1 3. Great Wester n 20. Swan Val l ey
8. Murray Val l ey 1 4. Southern Val es 2 1 . Roma
91
The new, modern wi nery of the
Rothbur Estate, whi ch won the
Royal Austral i an I nsti tute of
Archi tects' award, i s i n the
Hunter Ri ver val l ey of the state
of New South Wal es. I t i s sur
rounded by a vi neyard of more
thon a thousand acres.
The ol d, handsome bui l di ngs of
the Seppel t wi nery at Seppel ts
fel d, i n the Barossa Val l ey of
t he state of South Austral ia,
stand on the si te of the origi nal
wi nery establ i shed i n 1 85 1 .
Tradi t i onal methods are a hal l
mark of t hi s wi nery.
Generi c names, such as Bur
gundy, Chablis, and Hermitage,
ore on Austral i an wi ne l abel s
but ore
'
usual l y wri tten i n s mal l er
t ype t han the regi onal or pro
pri etary names whi ch precede
them-for exampl e, Cholombor
Burgundy. The use of the gen
eri c nome i s t o be taken onl y
as a general gui de far o cate
gory of taste.
Vari etal names ore an the
i ncrease, i n keepi ng wi th t he
growi ng i nterest i n tabl e wi nes.
The Brit i sh i nfuence shows i n
the number af wi nes l abel ed
as Claret

and Hock, t he I otter

used far Rhi ne-type wi nes.
Austral i an reds ore general l y
sturdy and deep in col or. The
best of t hem are s moot h, wi t h
o pronounced vi nous favor. The
Cl arets come very cl ose to t he
characteri sti cs of t hei r ori gi nal
Bordeaux forebears. The Bur
gundy-type reds bear very l i ttl e
resembl ance to thei r French
model s, but ore good enough
t o st and on t hei r own mer i t
al one.
The qual ity of the whi tes
seem to vary much more t hon
t hat of t he r eds. Some ore l i ght
to t he poi nt of bei ng t hi n, and
some ore as robust as t he reds.
Three general types domi nate
the whites : the sauternes,
rangi ng from s emi -sweet to
sweet; the chablis, usual l y
quite dry ond bi g- bodi ed; and
t he hocks, or riesli ngs. The best
of the l atter are l ight and fro
grant, usual l y dry. The roses con
be remarkabl y bi g i n favor and
body. The versati l e soi l pro
duces, i n di ferent regi ons, com
pl et el y di ferent wi nes.
Most Austral i an vi nt ners make
some s parkl i n g wi nes . Some or e
made by t he tradi t i onal i n- t he
bott l e f erment at i on, or Ch ompe
noi s process, and some use one
of t he bul k f ermentat i on proc
esses. The bott l e- fermented
wi nes ore general l y better and
al so mor e expens i ve t han those
produced by bu l k f ermentati on.
Vari ety, rat her t han s peci al i
zat i on, s eems to be t he rul e i n
Austral i a. Mos t vi ntners produce
as wi de a sel ect i on of wi nes
sti l l , fort i fed, and s par kl i ng
as possi bl e. The c l i mate an d
s oi l l end t hemsel ves t o t hi s mul
t i pl i c i ty of wi ne types.
The same vi ne, pl anted i n
di ferent parts of t he wi ne
growi ng reg i ons, wi l l res ul t i n
wi nes of very di ferent an d di s
t i nct character.
Very l i ttl e Austral i an wi ne i s
exported as yet to t he Uni ted
States. The House of Seppel t i s
one of t he pi oneers i n export
ing t hes e u n us ual and di st i nc
ti ve wi nes t o our s hores . We
can l ook forward to an i nc rease
over t he next few years .
Some of t he l eadi ng bra n ds
are, S. Wyn n Co. , Penf ol ds,
Sal tra m, L i ndeman ' s, Yal u mbo
( S. Smi t h Son) . McWi l l i a m' s ,
Gramp' s Orl ando, Kai ser Stu h l ,
and Angove' s . Al l ore i n t h e
sout heast corner of t he cou n
t r y and ofer a wi de s el ect i on
of t abl e, dessert, and s par kl i n g
wi nes. Chat eau Tobi l k and Mc
laren Vol e do not make fort i
fed wi nes .
Austral i ans ar e an xi ous t o
have t hei r wi nes j udged on
t hei r own mer i ts, wi t hout c om
pori son-j ust as one woul d not
compare t he warotoh fower of
New Sout h Wal es wi t h on En
gl i s h rose.
C ANAD A
Canada' s rel ati vel y smal l wi ne producti on and per
capi ta consumpti on have both been growi ng steadi l y
over the past t en year s. The home- grown grapes are
mostl y Vitis labrusca vari eties, with more hybri ds bei ng
added every year . Wi ne grapes are al so i mported i n
si gni fi cant quanti ti es from the Uni ted States. A si zabl e
amount of wi ne i s made from fruits and berri es other
than grapes . Very l i ttl e Canadi an wi ne i s exported to
the U. S. ; Canadi ans are so fond of thei r own product
that they dri n k most of i t themsel ves, and suppl ement
it wi th i mports .
I n gener al , Canadi an wi ne is l i ght, fragrant, and
very pl easant . There do not s eem t o be any great
Canadi an wi nes as yet, but there are many fne, de
l i ghtful ones , as can be attested by the many touri sts
who have vi si ted our great nei ghbor to the nort h.
A refres h i n g honesty on d l ack of pompous pretens i on i s evi denced
i n t hese Conodi an wi ne l abel s, represent i ng most of t he Canadi an
wi ne compani es . Wi t h few except i ons a wi ne wi l l be cal l ed j ust
what i t i s : o red wi ne i s l abel ed Red Wi ne, and i t i s descri bed as
dry, s emi - dry, s emi - sweet, or sweet, us ual l y i n Engl i sh and Frenc h.
OKANAGAN
VAL L EY
REGI ON
Canada' s wi ne- growi ng areas are: . t he Ni agara Pen i nsul a, whi c h
graws 80% of t he grapes used i n Canadi an wi n es, and 2. t he
Okanagan Val l ey of Bri t i sh Col u mbi a. Despi te t hei r nor t her n l oca
t i on, bot h hove more s uns hi ne t han many of t he worl d' s renowned
vi neyards. Pl ease note t he d i ferent "Scal e of Mi l es" on t he maps.
The pr i nc i pal wi neri es of On
tari o ar e: Bar nes , t he ol dest ;
Bri ght ' s, t he l argest; Cast l e;
Chat eau Cart i er; Chateau- Gai ;
Jordan; l ondon; an d Tur ner .
Bri t i s h Col u mbi a' s i nc l ude:
Andres; Grower s' ; Vi l l a; Col ona;
Casabel l a; and Uncl e Ben' s.
I n ot her parts we fnd: Castl e
i n Saskat chewan ; Danforth i n
Mani toba; an d Andres an d
Chal et i n Al berta.
Mast of t hem ofer a com
pl ete s el ect i on of sti l l , s par
kl i ng, and forti fed wi nes .
Canada does not produc e
"vi nt age" wi nes . Cl i mat i c con
di t i ons i n t he grape-growi ng
regi ons are rel at i vel y s tabl e,
maki ng for grapes of good,
even qual i ty each year. The
wi nes of di fer ent years' harvests
are oft en bl en ded to obtai n a
consi sten t character an d qual i ty.
Canadi an wi nes ar e aged at
t he wi neri es i n a vari ety of
contai ners of t he wi ne makers'
c hoi ce unt i l ready for s hi p
ment. There i s comparat i vel y
l i t t l e agi ng i n t he bott l e.
95
HU NGAR Y
Wi ne mak i n g has al ways been a great tradi t i on i n Hun
gary, al ong wi th l ove-ma ki ng t o t he romanti c mus i c
of s obbi ng gypsy vi ol i ns .
Wi ne- ma ki n g sta ndards a re c la i med t o be among
t he hi ghest, and H ungary pi oneered t he r egul ati on s af
fect i ng plac e- na mes an d vari etal regulati ons .
Top qual i ty H unga rian wi nes are classi fed as First
Great Growths, subj ect to stri ngent control s, or Great
Growths, subj ect to l ess stri ngent control s . The control s
are exerci sed at the source and there i s no notati on
on t he label . E xcept for Tokay and a very few other s,
c lassi fed wi nes carry t he na me of t he g rape vari ety
prec eded by the plac e name.
The most i mportant whi te wi n e grape i s t he Furmint,
used in ma ki ng the great Tokay a nd a number of other
super b Hungaria n whi te wi nes . The outstandi ng red
vari ety i s the Kodarka, whi ch produces most of t he
h i gh qual i ty red wi nes a nd i s one of the var i eti es
bl en ded i n t he famous Egri Bikaver, or Bul l ' s Bl ood .
TOKAY, or Tokaj in Hu ngar i an,
i s Hu ngary' s greatest wi ne an d
on e of t h e worl d ' s greatest too.
It is as u ni que as france' s Cha
t eau d' Yquem and Germany' s
greatest Trocken beerenous l es en.
I t s un i queness i s t he product
of a c ombi nat i on of a grape,
t he Furmi nt, whi c h res ponds
i deal l y to t he c l i mat i c condi t i on,
a vol can i c soi l wi t h el ements of
fel dspar, cl ay, and porphyry,
an d a speci al met hod of vi ni
fcat i on. The s oi l i s cons i dered
so preci ous t hat no one from
outs i de i s al l owed i nto the
g rowi ng area.
96
The Tokay f ur mi nt grope i s
al l owed t o bec ome overri pe,
devel opi ng t he Botrytis mol d,
concentrat i ng t he sugar s to a
maxi mum. Si nce berri es r i pen
u nevenl y i n a c l u st er, t he over
ri pe berri es are separated an d
pl aced i n bas kets cal l ed put
tonys.
When Aszu Tokay i s made,
a g i ven nu mber of pullonys are
added to t he r i pe berry run.
The n u mber of puttonys i s
s hown on t he neck l abel of t he
bott l e. The l arger t he n u mber,
( from 3 to 5) t he more concen
t rat ed t he wi ne.
Tokay Szamorodni is a ful l
bodi ed whi te wi ne made ei t her
dry or sweet . L i ke Aszu Tokay,
i t comes from Furmint grapes
but t he berri es are not segre
gated, t he whol e vi neyard har
vest bei ng f er ment ed together.
There i s no i nd i cati on of put
t ony strength and t he vi nt age
year i s an i mportant factor.
Egri Bi kaverg Bul l ' s Bl ood of
Eger, i s the d ra mat i c nome of
the best-known Hungar i an red
wi ne. I t i s dark an d heavy,
t ends to be dry, an d wel l - aged.
Good vi ntage year s devel op a
vel vety s moot h ness bl ended
wi th i ts feri ness. I t i s a bl end
of the Kodarka, Medoc Noir
and Burgundi grape vari eti es.
Debroi Harslevel i i s Q gol den
sweet wi ne made from t he Hun
gar i an grape, Harsleveli . I t
has been l i kened t o a medi um
qual i ty Saut ernes by s ome ex
perts. On t he s hores of lake
Bal at on, t he l argest European
l ake, are t he vi neyards produc
i ng s ome of t he best Hu ngar i an
wi nes avai l abl e i n t hi s country.
Badacsonyi Keknyel is the
best known of t hat regi on. I t i s
a dry, pal e green wi nf whi c h,
i n a good year, has a qual i ty
re mi ni scent of fne dry Mos el l e
and Rhi ne wi nes.
Badacsonyi Szurkebarat, or
Grey fri ar of Badacsony, i s a
l i t t l e sweeter, mel l ow and gol d
en. I t i s made f r om t he Pinot
Gris grape vari ety.
Szeksz6rdi Voros, a c l aret type,
i s typi cal af t he best reds
grawn on t he sl opes near the
Yugosl av border. I t has a fne
fragrance, i s pl easant l y dry,
and is not too heavy. It was
sai d to be one of fr anz Li szt ' s
favori t e wi nes . Whi l e t he Hun
gari an word voros i s t h e En
gl i sh equ i val ent of Cl aret, t he
grape var i ety used i s t he Ko
darko. The s ame g rape i s used
f ar t wo ot her f ul l - bodi ed reds :
Szekszardi Kodarka and Villan
yi Kadarko.
Des pi te t hei r al most u n pro
nounceabl e names, these ore
al l wi nes whi ch mer i t more
t han j ust a casual acquai ntance.
*W r
A U S T R I A
The l and of Strauss wal tzes, Sachertorte, and Baroque
ar chi tecture has pr oduced wi ne for n earl y a thousand
year s . The better Austr i an wi nes are predomi nantl y
whi te, l i ght i n al cohol , and fai rl y dry.
Austri a i s a wi ne- dr i n ki ng country, and much of i ts
wi ne i s con sumed wi thi n i ts borders. Not enough wi ne
i s made t o quench t he Austri an t hi rst, and i mports,
mai nl y from nei ghbor i ng I tal y, exceed exports . There
are four wi ne- produci ng regi ons : Lower Austria, wi th
more than 50, 000 acres of vi neyar ds; Burgenland, a
sout heast ern provi nce, once part of Hungary; Styria,
bor deri ng on Yugosl avi a; and Vienna i tsel f.
AUSTRI AN WI NE LABELS s how
t he name of t he di stri ct or vi l
l age of or i gi n, somet i mes t he
nome of t he i ndi vi dual vi ne
yard, or t he name of t he grope
vari ety. The notat i on naturbel
assen i ndi cates that the wi ne i s
a nat ural wi ne, unsweetened.
Gerebelt means that the gr apes
are hand- pi cked.
The bottl es are t he l ong s l en
der ones associ ated wi t h Ger
man wi ne, and they are ei t her
green or brown.
THE GRAPES u sed i n maki ng
t he whi te wi nes i ncl ude several
types of Ri es l i ngs , s uch as
Rhei nriesling, Ri esl i ng- Sylvaner,
and Welsch- Ri esl i ng; al s o Fur
mint; Muscat-Ottonel; Gruner
Veltliner, and Traminer. For red
wi nes the grapes i ncl ude 8/au
frankisch; 8/ auburgunder; Sankt
Laurent; Wildbacher, and Ka
darka.
98
THE WHI TE WI NES are gener
al l y t he best. Among t hem
s houl d be noted: Gumpolds
kirschner, a l i g ht , fragran t wi ne
l ong a Vi en nese favori te; t he
Sandwei ne of t he l ake di stri ct
of Burgen l and; t he st i l l or spar
kl i ng wi nes of t he Kl och di s
t r i ct of Styri a; and t he Gruner
Veltli ner vari etal s of Vi enna.
THE RED WI NES, t hough rated
l ower t han the whi te, are pl ea
sant and unusual . Among t he
mor e i nteresti ng are t he Vos
lauer Rotwein, from the Wei n
erwal d-Stei nf el d di stri ct; t he
fery Kadarka, from Maltersburg;
and the dark red Styri a n Schil
cherwei n.
VI ENNA' S l i tt l e wi ne vi l l ages,
now i n i ts s uburbs, produce
pl easant wi nes dru n k young at
the source by Vi ennese and
touri sts i n the wi ne gardens.
Y U G O S L A V I A
The l and of the southern Sl avs produces about 1 25
mi l l i on gal l ons of wi ne yearl y and ran ks, i n producti on,
wi t h t he Uni ted States and Greece. Exports mor e t han
doubl ed i n t he 1 950' s and conti nue to r i se.
The country pr oduces a l ar ge vari ety of wi nes from
such i mported vi nes as Mer/of, Riesli ng, Sauvignon,
Sy/vaner, and Traminer, as wel l as from hybri ds and
many n ati ve vari eti es s uch as Prokupac, Smedervka,
and Ezerjo. Most wi nes are bl ended and vi ntages ar e
rel ati vel y uni mportant . Yugosl av wi nes ofer a great
and vari ed range of taste, from t he robust southern
reds to t he l i ght fres hness of the whi tes of Sl oveni a.
THE WI NE-GROWI NG DI S
TRICTS are: Serbia, produci ng
al most hal f of the total mode
i n t he country; Croatia, account
i ng for about 35%; Sl ovenia
and Macedonia, l ess t han 1 0%
each. The di strict of Bosnia
Herzegovina produces a l i ttl e
wi ne. Montenegro's producti on
is ol most ni l .
SERBI AN wi nes ore mostl y
reds, some roses, and a few
whi tes. Not many ore exported,
but some of these names may
become better known i n t he
fut ure: Zupa, for robust, heavy
reds; Kraji no, mostl y reds, wi th
one wh i te, t he Bagrino of Kro
jina; Smederevo, for good
whi tes made from the Smederv
ka grape.
CROATI AN wi nes are of two
types-those of the i nl and di s
tri cts and t hos e of the Adri ati c
coast. The i n l and sl opes pro
duce l i ght, pl easant wi nes such
as Vinica, Varazdin, and Med
j ugorica. The Adri ati c vi ne
yards produce bi g red wi nes,
f ul l of tanni n, and wi th very
l i ttl e aci d. They ore usual ly
l abel ed as vari etal s together
wi th the pl ace- name, such as
" Pi avac of Vi s, " made from the
Pl avac grape i n the Vi s regi on .
The wi nes of t he l stri an Pen
i nsul a show a strong I t al i an
i nfuence. One of t he better
known wi nes of that regi on i s
the Mal vazya, made from the
I tal i an Malvasia grape.
Most of t he grape growi ng i s
done by peasant vi ti cul t uri sts
whose hol di ngs, l i mi ted by l aw
to 25 acres, amount to 95% of
t he total area pl anted i n vi nes.
A few authori zed exporters con
t rol wi ne exports to t he I ron
Curtai n countries anc t he rest
of the worl d.
99
T H E S O U T H E R N N E I G H B O R S
MEXICO was t he f rst count ry on the North Amer i can
Conti nent to rai se grapes from European stock, but i t
i s not today a wi ne- dr i nki ng country. Some 40 com
pani es make wi nes, both sti l l and spar kl i ng, or br andy
fr om the 200, 000 tons of grapes grown there annual l y.
Mexi cans have a per capi ta consumpti on of about a
half pint of wi ne annual l y compared to, say the I tal i ans '
nearl y 30 gal l ons ! Mexi can vi nters are a hopeful l ot,
so that cons umpti on of thei r product can onl y go UP !
The wi ne- growi ng regi ons of
Mexi co are in the northern part
of t he country. Aguasca/ientes
i s the most i mportant. Among
the ot her regi ons are La La
guna, De/icias, Baja California,
Saltillo, Chihuahua, Queretaro,
and Torre6n.
The vi neyards and wi neri es
are pri mari l y fami l y afai rs.
Among t he pri nci pal ones are:
Vinico/a de Aguasca/ientes; Mi
si 6n de Santo Tam6s; Vinico/o
de Saltillo; Madero, and Verge/.
The I otter i s the youngest and
fastest-growi ng wi ner.
THE ARGENTI NIAN i s i ndeed a wi ne dr i nker . Hi s
country r anks fourth among the worl d' s wi ne producers,
wi th an average yearl y output of over 500 mi l l i on gal
l ons , and he dr i nks practi cal l y al l of i t ! Hi s consumpti on
represents wel l over 22 gal l ons per capi ta.
The Spani sh mi ssi onari es brought the vi ne to Ar gen
t i na i n 1 566, but the devel opment of the i ndustry was
l eft to the I tal i an i mmi grants. I n the 1 9th Century they
began i r ri gati ng the desert l and of Mendoza and cre
ated a new vi nel and.
Two regi ons produce nearl y al l t he wi ne: Mendoza,
contri buti ng about 70 ", and San Juan, over 25 " .
Red wi nes far outnumber the whi tes and roses, and
vast quanti ti es of vermouth ar e al so produced. Spar
kl i ng wi nes are made by al l three methods-bottl e
fermentati on, bul k fermentati on, and carbonation.
1 00
Right, An Argent i ni an vi neyard,
s howi ng a typi cal method of
trel l i s i ng the vi nes. Note the
wi de al l eys ond fol i age hei ght .
Below, Argent i ne gauchos, i n
t hei r costumes, parade i n the
fest i ve Vendimia, the cel ebra
t i on of the grape harvest.
Argent i ne wine makers have
chosen , wi t h a few excepti ons,
t o use modern mass producti on
met hods to process t he yi el d
f rom t hei r more t han 600,000
acres of vi neyards. I mmense
ferment i ng vat s, some hol di ng
mor e t han 250,000 gal l ons, ore
current l y used. The rest of t hei r
wi ne- maki ng equi pment i s on a
correspondi ng scal e.
Thi s makes a l ot of wi ne,
qu i ckl y and economi cal l y, but
i t does not make f or a very
hi gh quol i ty product . I n produc
i ng s uch huge quant i t i es, i t i s
i mposs i bl e to use t he l ovi ng
car e and i n di vi dual attent i on
gi ven t o fne wi nes made i n
smal l l ots.
However, t here are some Ar
gent i ne bodegas speci al i zi ng i n
qual i ty wi nes, carefu l l y made
i n rel ati vel y s mal ler quant i ty.
The grape vari ety whi ch dom
i nates t he red wi ne producti on
i s t he Malbec, a French export
from the Bordeaux regi on. I t
produces about two-thi rds of
al l red wi nes i n Argent i na. The
bal ance i s made wi t h ot her f a
mi l i ar European types, most l y
I tal i an and French. The domi
nat i ng grape for wh ite wi ne i s
t he Criol/as, one of the vari e
ti es i mported by t he earl y mi s
si onari es. Ot her vari eti es i n
cl ude t he Spani s h Pedro Xime
nez, Malvasia, Pinot Blanc, Ries
ling, Sauvignon, and Semi//on.
Argent i na, l i ke France an d
Germany, h as establ i shed a n
excel l ent body of l aw regul at
i ng the bott l i ng and l abel i ng
of i t s wi nes. The Argent i ne con
s umer i s wel l protected agai nst
fraud and mi s representati on.
One sect i on, whi ch coul d be
taken as a model by al l ot her
wi ne count ri es, forbi ds t he use
of famous pl ace- names s uch as
Chabl i s, Rhi ne, Bordeaux, etc. ,
unl ess the wi ne i s i mported
from that regi on. A place-name
can be used onl y i f t he wi ne
came f r om t here and has i t s
t ypi cal characteri sti cs. No for
ei gn wi ne may be bl ended wi t h
Argent i ne wi ne.
1 01
CHI LE'S 275, 000 acres of vi neyards
p
roduce t he best
wi nes of South Ameri ca, and r ank i t among the frst
dozen or so in worl d producti on. The soil and cl i mate,
combi ned wi th a good i rri gati on system, are good for
the wine gr ape. A great tradi ti on of careful wine mak
i ng was l eft to t he Chi l eans by t he French, who pl anted
t he better vi n eyards.
No great wi nes have emerged as yet, but Chilean
wi nes are greatl y appreci ated everywhere. They are
very good and so reasonabl y pri ced that t hey consti
tute one of t he best wi ne bargai ns .
There are three maj or wine growing areas : the
Northern Region where fortifed wi nes domi nate; the
Central Region, speci al i zi ng i n good- and hi gh-quality
t abl e wi n es, and t he Southern Region, whi ch produces
ordi nary t abl e wi nes.
THE NORTHERN REGI ON,
stretchi ng some 350 mi l es, pro
duces Chi l e' s best tabl e grapes
and the wi ne grapes for forti
fed wines made to resembl e
Port, Madei ra, or Sherry.
THE CENTRAL REGI ON, about
1 50 mi l es l ong, makes the coun
try's best wi nes. The Aconcagua
and Mai po River val l eys pro
duce the regi on' s hi ghest-qual
i ty wi nes. The Bordeaux i nfu
ence i s very strong, and the
Cabernet grapes produce strong,
stabl e red wi nes, wel l bal anced
and of di sti nctive fnesse. Fi ne
white wi nes ar e al so made,
mostl y from Pinot Blanc, Sauvi
gnon, and Semi//on grapes.
THE SOUTHERN REGI ON pro
duces ordi nary, everyday wi nes,
good but wi th l i ttle di sti ncti on.
A l i ttle Riesling is made there.
Chi l e's Riesli ng i s one of its
best wh ite wi nes. When frst
sol d i n the Uni ted Stoles, i t
was an outstandi ng bargai n,
pri ced under one dol l ar a bot
tl e, and met wi th greot op
provol . Despi te its good recep
tion abroad, however, Chi l ean
vi ntners have cut Ri es l i ng
producti on, fndi ng i t uneconom
i cal t o grow.
Other white wi nes are now
made in greater quanti ti es from
such grape vari eti es as Pinot
Blanc, Sauvignon, and Semi//on.
The wi ne i ndustry i n Chi l e i s
very strictl y control l ed. Whi l e
some regul at i ons are part of
an attempt by the govern ment
t o combat al cohol i sm, wi ne age
control s and export rul es pro
tect the consumer abroad.
Excess producti on can not be
marketed i n t he country. Export
i s an obvi ous sol uti on, but to
prevent the dumpi ng of i nfe
ri or Chi l ean wi nes abroad the
govern ment has rul ed that ex
ported wi nes must have a mi ni
mum al cohol i c content-1 2 %
for whi te, 1 1 .5 % far red-and
al l mus t be at l east one year
ol d. Export wi nes are al so sub
j ect to age control s under four
cl assifcations : Courant, for one
year-ol d wi nes; Special, for two
year-ol d; Reserve, for four-year
old, and Gran Vino, for si x
year-old or ol der.
Most of the exported wi nes
carry the vari etal names, and
ofer a good val ue.
BRAZI L, t he l argest count ry i n South Ameri ca, has al
most 200, 000 acres i n vi nes. Because of the cl i mate,
Brazi l i an wi ne makers have pl anted mostly Vitis Ia
brusca and Ameri can hybri ds, with a few careful ly
tended European vari eti es. There has been a consi der
abl e expansi on of the wi ne i ndustry to meet the i n
creasi ng i nt er nal demand. Very l i ttl e i s exported at
present but the si tuati on may soon change.
URUGUAY, the s mal l est count ry i n Sout h Amer i ca,
has a wi n e producti on al most equal to that of Brazi l .
The Ur uguayan enj oys hi s wi ne; very l i ttl e i s exported .
Whi l e Ur uguay al so uses North Ameri can hybri ds,
there ar e consi derabl e pl anti ngs of European vari eti es
such as Cabernet, Barbera, and Nebbiolo.
Most Ur uguayan wi nes are named after the l ocal ity
where t hey are made or after the vari etal name.
1 03
. . . AND MORE DI STANT NEI GHBORS . . .
RUSSI A, a l ways an i mportant wi ne producer, i s ai m
i ng at an annual producti on of over 250 mi l l i on gal
l ons. Most of t he wi ne i s grown and made i n a vast
crescent of southern Russi a, from the fronti ers of Chi na
and Mongol i a t o the Rumani an border . The fnest wi ne
regi on i s the Crimea, whose smal l producti on i s compen
sated by t he qual ity of i t s sweet and dessert wi nes.
The other i mportant wi ne regi ons ar e i n t he Sovi et
Re publ i cs of Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Georgia. The
amount of Russi an wi ne exported to any country seems
t o be di rectl y rel ated t o the pol i ti cal cl i mate. Wi t h i m
proved rel ati ons, more good Russi an wi nes may reach
the U. S. i n t he future.
The Russi an taste, predomi nant l y
for sweet wi nes, extends t o
spar kl i ng wi nes. The best i s
reputed to be t he Cr i mean
Kafi a. Near Roslov, i n t he Don
Val l ey, t he vi neyards are i m
porlan l producers of bot h red
and whi le sparkl i ng wi nes.
Armeni a makes l arge quant i t i es
of natural tabl e wi nes, forli fed
wi nes, and brandi es.
Pl ace- names are regul ated by
stale decree, al though t he des
i gnat i ons permit usi ng s uch
names as Port, Tokay, and Ma
de i ra.
NORTH AFRI CA, under F rench i nfuence, beca me a
maj or producer of wi ne, parti cul ar l y i n Al ger i a. I n
recent years, however, t he wi ne i ndustry i n Al ger i a,
under the control of t he Mosl em popul ati on , has de
teri orated t o a cri ti cal poi nt. Tuni si a conti nues nor mal
producti on, and qual i ty control s have been establ i shed.
Morocco, whose wi ne i ndustry accounts for one- quarter
of i ts agri cul t ural i ncome, has i naugurated a sound
progr am of control s from vi ne t o fni s hed product. Most
North Afr i can wi nes are reds, heady and rough, al
though a few of good qual ity ar e produced i n al l of
t hese th ree countri es .
1 04
SOUTH AFRI CA has a n excel l en
t cl i mate for g ra pe
growi ng, but t here has been l i ttl e i ncenti ve to make
good wi ne, s i nce t he popul ati on i s mor e i nterested i n
har d l i quor t han wi ne. The country has had, for s ome
t i me, t he worl d' s l ar gest per capi ta cons umpti on of
al cohol . The wi nes were, unt i l recentl y, extremel y rough
and devoi d of di sti ncti on, but t he pi cture i s changi ng.
JAPAN'S wi ne i ndustry i s one of t he wor l d's newest,
and, characteri sti cal l y, the Japanese are i ndustri ousl y
expandi ng i t . Thei r hope i s that wi ne dri nki ng may
check t he drai n on grai n suppl i es caused by t he enor
mous consumpti on of sake and beer made from grai n .
Th e pr i nci pal wi ne- growi ng regi ons are t h e di stri cts
of Osaka and Yamanas hi , on t he i s l and of Hons hu.
Whi l e European, Asi an, and Ameri can grape vari eti es
can grow there, t he aci d soi l and dampness ar e not
conducive to t he producti on of hi gh- qual i ty wi ne.
Typi cal Japanese vi neyards an d
wi ner i es are s mal l . Thei r per
son nel are often i nexper i enced
for whi l e t here i s a great tradi
t i on i n agr i cu l t ure, t here i s none
i n wi ne maki ng. However, i f t he
h i story of ot her Japanese enter
pri ses i s a gui de, t he i nqui si t i ve
ness and i ndust ri ousness of t he
Japanese wi l l work wonder s.
There are many cooperati ves
and l arge compani es , such as
t he Sado-ya Cooperati ve i n
Ya manas h i and Suntory, whi ch
ar e maki ng si gn ifcant progress
i n t he product i on of pl easant
wi nes f r om European and ather
gr ape vari et i es.
General l y, t he dessert wi nes
are more s uccessful t han t he
tabl e wi nes.
Ant i sept i cal l y-garbed Japanese
gi rl s harvest grapes i n one of
t he Suntory vi neyards. Note t he
overhead trel l i s i ng, for max i mu m
exposure t o s unl i ght .
1 05
I n the precedi ng chapters we have seen how wi ne i s
made, where i t i s made, and who makes i t. The l i mi
tati ons of s i ze and scope of t hi s book make i t a pri mer,
cover i ng as si mpl y as possi bl e the maj or hi ghl i ghts of
wi ne l ore. As in al l human endeavors whi ch have been
refned t hrough the ages, one need not be a profes
si onal wine taster to enj oy a gl ass of wi ne, any more
t han one need be an Ol ympi c champi on to enj oy sports
or a vi rtuoso to enj oy pl ayi ng a musi cal i nstrument . The
degree of enj oyment normal l y i ncreases as your knowl
edge and ski l l i ncreases. You l earn most about wi nes
by dr i nki ng t hem, and what a pl easant st udy t hat i s !
A l i st of suggested addi ti onal readi ng i s i ncl uded
( page 1 54) for t hose who have been sufci entl y i n
tri gued t o want mor e extensi ve gui dance on the fasci
n at i ng as pects of wi ne. And now we wi l l expl ore t he
pr acti cal consumer arts of buyi ng, stor i ng, and us i ng
wi ne for maxi mum enj oyment.
1 06
SHOPPI NG for wi ne is basi ca l l y t he some as sho
p

pi ng for any other ki nd of food for your t abl e. Your

choi ce i s gui ded pr i mari l y by your t ast e preference
and your budget.
Assumi ng that you l ive i n on area of reasonabl y con
ven i ent s hoppi ng faci l i ti es, you wi l l normal l y go where
you have confdence in t he honesty and competence
of t he mer chant . You have l earned to trust hi s recom
mendat i ons and you l i ke the qual i ty and choi ce range
of hi s wi nes, whi ch are probabl y di s pl ayed i n on at
tractive and i ntel l i gent manner .
The above cri teri a appl y t o wi ne as they do t o a
roast, a basket of frui t, or any other foodstufs . Your
choi ce of food i s deter mi ned by t he occasi on, and so
shoul d your choi ce of wi ne. A s i mpl e meal cal l s for a
s i mpl e wi ne, a feast for a corres pondi ngl y festive vi n
tage. There are stapl e wi nes, j ust as there ore stapl e
foods . Some wi nes ore for cons umpti on soon after pur
chose and some for storage, to be used at a l ater date
when i t wi l l reach ful l maturi ty.
JUG WI NES, i n gal l ons an d
hal f- gal l ons, ar e general l y of
good qual i ty, qu i te sati sfactory
for everyday use. They often
ofer t he best val ue in t he low
pri ced, readi l y avai l abl e Amer
icon tabl e wi nes.
There i s no advant age i n
stori ng t hese wi nes as they are
ready O dr i nk at t he ti me of
purchase, an d are not l i kel y to
i mprove with age. By buyi ng
these l arger contai ners and
transferri ng t he cont ents i nto
as sorted s mal l er bottl es, you
can save a l i tt l e money and
have a usef ul range of si zes
for your tabl e and ki t chen.
Most Ameri can vi ntners make
j ug wi nes. Among those whi ch
have found wi de acceptance
are: The Christian Brothers'
wi nes, bottl ed in ffths or j ugs;
Charles Krug' s CK and Man
davi Vintage products; Alma
den' s Mountain wi nes and some
generi cs; Louis Martini's Moun
tai n Red, White, and Rose; Ital
ian Swiss Colony's Chianti and
Rose; Gallo's Hearty Burgundy,
Rhine Garten, and Paisano;
Guild's Famiglia Cribari, for
rather sweet wi nes, Vino de
Tavola for sl i ghtly drier and
f ul l er wi nes, and the generi cs
bottl ed under thei r Winemasers
l abel ; and Paul Masson' s gen
eri cs, bottl ed only i n hal f- gal
l ons. The above are al l Cal i
forni a wi nes.
I n New York and other parts
of the country vi nt ners are
l i kel y to fol l ow t he l ead of
Taylor, Great Western, and Gold
Seal i n bott l i ng thei r wi nes i n
l arger contai ners. A few i mports
arrive as jug wi nes, parti cu l arl y
Spani s h and I tal i an brands . The
qual i ty has been u neven, and
vari es from year to year. Some
very good buys have appeared
from ti me to t i me.
1 08
When expl ori ng t he j ug wi ne
fel d, t he buyer s houl d ascer
tai n i f the u n known wi ne whi ch
i nterests hi m i s avai l abl e i n
ffths, and i f so, he s houl d pur
chase t he s mal l er bottl e for test
i ng. I f no ffths are avai l abl e,
try t he hal f-gal l on. I f you l i ke
t he wi ne, t he mos t economi cal
way to buy i t i s by t he case of
four gal l ons., di vi di ng t he gal
l ons i nto s mal l er screw-cop con
tai ners at home.
I n buyi ng better qual ity
wi nes whose price i s corre
s pondi ngl y hi gher, the cons um
er s houl d l ook f or more t han
t he enj oyabl e, everyday dri nk
i ng sui t abi l ity of the i nexpen
si ve j ug wi ne. The cost shoul d
be a gui de to t he degree of
fnesse, compl exi ty of taste, and
other qual i ty characteri sti cs.
Premi um Ameri can wi nes,
parti cu l arl y t he vori etol s, often
ofer t he best bargai n, dol l ar
for dol l ar, compared wi th i m
ports. I f these wi nes are prop
erl y stored and aged i n the
cons umer' s wi ne cel l ar, they
wi l l often t urn out to be spec
locul ar val ues and for s uperi or
to the i mport of equal pri ce at
the t i me of purchase.
READ THE LABEL when buyi ng
any but a wi ne you know wel l .
I f you need hel p, ask t he
storekeeper. I f he can ' t give you
a sati sfactory transl ati on of the
s i gn i fcant i nformat i on you seek,
don' t buy the wi ne. Most coun
tri es requi re honest l abel i ng
and usual l y enforce i t. Beware
of too general descri pt i ons and
vogue ter mi nol ogy.
HOW TO BECOME A SUCCESSFUL WINE SHOPPER:
1 . Be advent urous . Toke advantage of every o
pp
or
tunity to taste di ferent wi nes. Attend wi netasti ngs
whenever you can, or i nvi te a few fri ends t o a share
t he- expense wi netosti ng party at home. Go on wi ne
shoppi ng s prees; i t i s not expensi ve, and i s fun .
2. Learn to read l abel s . El sewhere i n t hi s book you
wi l l fnd hel pful poi nters on readi ng forei gn and Ameri
can wi ne l abel s for perti nent i nformati on .
3. When t ryi ng a wi ne for t he f rs t t i me, buy s mal l
bottl es, i f avai l abl e. Choose a s i ze t hat you ar e l i kel y
to fni s h at one si tti ng. Few t abl e wi nes wi l l keep t hei r
attracti veness for more t han a day once opened.
4. Try t he l ow- pri ced wi nes a s wel l as the more ex
pensi ve ones . When you fnd a type to your taste, try
several di ferent br ands i n vari ous pri ce ranges before
you buy i n any I or ge quanti ty.
5. Once you hove found a wi ne you l i ke, at a fai r
pri ce, buy as much as you can store safel y, and i n
proporti on t o your future needs. Be s ur e t he wi ne i s
fr om t he s hi pment you tasted and l i ked .
6. Lear n somet hi ng of t he kee
p
i ng characteri sti cs of
any wi ne you want to " put down " for a year or more.
Remember : Whi tes usual l y have a s hort l i fe; reds oft en
i mprove wi th addi t i onal agi ng.
7. Keep a ce/lar book for l abel s an d your notati ons
on al l wi nes you wont to remember, ei ther good or
bad . You shoul d note t he date of purchase, price,
deal er, dote tasted, and your i mpressi ons of col or,
aroma, bouquet, taste, aftertaste, body, aci di ty, dry
ness, etc. Your notes con be as el aborate as you wi sh,
i ncl udi ng t he food you had wi t h t he wi ne, or other
peopl e' s opi ni ons.
1 09
S T OR I N G WI N E
Wi ne i s stored by the con sumer for a vari ety of good
reasons-conveni ence, economy, and i mprovement of
the wi ne i tsel f. Whether hi s wi ne cel l ar i s a cl oset i n an
apart ment or a separate room i n t he basement, t he
benefts and t he basi c requi rements appl y.
The conveni ence of havi ng a ready-to- dri n k as sort
ment of wi nes at hand i s obvious . Bei ng abl e to buy
wi ne at a good pri ce and stor i ng it for l at er use can
be advantageous i n ti mes of ri si ng pri ces.
Most wi nes, parti cul arl y the reds, beneft by addi
t i onal agi ng . A wi ne of moderate appeal can t ur n i nto
a superb one in a few years. Al l wi nes beneft from a
few days ' rest after bei ng transported.
The most i mportant requi r ement concerns t empera
t ure. Next i s avoi dance of di rect sunl i ght, and l astl y,
cl eanl i ness to avoi d mol d formati on and odor s.
I ns pect i ng an agi ng r ed wi ne
f ar t he a mount of sedi men!
th rown al ong t he bottl e s i de.
The hori zont al pos i t i on of t he
bottl e i s mai ntai ned.
THE TEMPERATURE of t he st or
age area s houl d be, i deal l y,
between 55

and 60

F. An
area where t he t emperature
ri ses above 70

or fal l s bel ow
45

i s not advi sabl e. The
even ness of t he temperature i s
very i mportant . Vi ol ent changes
are to be avoi ded.
Si nce t he wi ne i s to r es t un
di sturbed, t he l ocat i on must be
free from vi brati ons whi ch
coul d agi tate t he wi ne and pre
vent t he sl ow depos i t of s edi
men! . The bott l es are l ai d on
t hei r s i de, s o t hat t he wi ne cov
ers t he cork, keepi ng it wet and
swol l en. Thi s way no ai r gets
i nto the bottl e. I f the l abel i s
posi t i oned at t he top, t he sedi
men! wi l l be readi l y vi s i bl e.
SEDI MENT is t h rown in the nor
mol process of agi ng. I t i s o
preci pi tate of s ol i ds and crystal s
and, parti c ul arl y i n red wi nes,
a si gn t hat t he wi ne i s agi ng
properl y. Wh i te wi ne of t en has
a d

epasi t, much l ess abundant ,

and us ual l y i n t he form of t i ny
cl ear c rystal s . Nei t her ki nd of
deposi t i s to be consi dered a
defect. Cl oudi ness or cont i nued
l ack of cl ari ty ar e s er i ous de
f ect s an d may i n di cate a wi ne
i s not ft to be dr unk.
SPACE LI MITATI ONS al l owi ng
far storage of 24 bottl es or l ess
can be sol ved by t he use of
any n u mber of wi ne racks,
readi l y avai l abl e i n st ores or
from mai l - order houses. Because
of the smal l amount stor ed, i t
i s not l i kel y t hat any bottl e
wi l l l ang remai n. Pi ck t he cool
est conven i ent s pot, away f rom
any di rect s un l i ght, vi brat i ons
or j ol t i ng di st ur bance. A more
sat i sfactory sol ut i on, where
space al l ows, i s to use a c l oset,
away from heati ng pi pes or ap
pl i ances. Strong, i nc h- t hi c k
s hel vi ng can be i nstal l ed ac
cordi ng to t he s uggested s c heme
s hown i n t he d i agra m bel ow.
STORAGE RACKS AND BI NS come i n every si ze and
s hape, and i n pri ces rangi ng from very reasonabl e to
ri di cul ous. The author coul d not resi st i ncl udi ng hi s
own desi gn, s hown on the opposi te page, for a modu
l ar wi ne r ack requi r i ng onl y a l i ttl e ski l l i n car pentry,
made of i nexpensi ve pl ywood, and very fexi bl e i n
space requi rements. As many as 1 2 modul ar units,
stori ng 72 bottl es, can be stacked safel y on top of
each other.
THE BASE MODULE di fers from
the other modul es, establ i s hi ng
t he bose f or a verti cal pi l e of
ti l ted 6-bottl e rocks. The di
mensi ons of t he t wo si des, and
t he bac k pi ece or e di ferent.
They are shown i n the l eft bot
tom corner of t he s ketch. Note
the di ferent angl es for the
si des. The feet, i ndi cated as
2" X 2" l umber, ore opti onal ,
and can be made hi gh enough
t o per mi t sweepi ng. One base
modul e i s needed for every
stock. A stock of 8 modul es, i n
cl udi ng t he base, s tands about
fve feet hi gh and has proven
most conveni ent. Hi gher stocks
make t he top racks hard to
reach.
ALL THE OTHER MODULES are
s i mi l ar to each other and l ock
securel y to each other and to
the base modul e. The bottl es
are t i l ted toward the neck at a
sl i ght angl e ( 1 0

), i nsur i ng a
thorough ly wet and t i ght cork.
The same efect i s accompl i shed
wi t h t he bott l es compl etel y hor i
zontal -the angl e hel ps to se
cure the stabi l ity of the struc
ture.
1 1 2
label s can be afxed to t he
face of t he racks, i dent i fyi ng
the wi ne cl earl y wi thout t he
necess ity of s l i di ng the bottl es
out of the l ower racks. Sel f
s t i cki ng l abel s or Dymo pl ast i c
stri p l abel s have been fou nd
very efecti ve.
The home crafts man, espe
ci al l y i f a tabl e saw i s avai l
abl e, can make and assembl e
an 8- modul e rack i n one day
or l ess.
A good deal of ti me con be
saved i f s i mi lar pi eces are al l
cut at t he s ame t i me. The angl es
or e more l i kel y to ft perfectl y
i f the same setti ng i s used for
maki ng t he c uts, rather t han
tryi ng to mat ch t he setti ng at a
l ater t i me.
The hol es for the bottl e necks
ore adequate for most bottl es.
They s houl d not be made any
s mal l er t han 1 %
"
in di ameter.
The fn i shed modul es can be
pai nted, stai ned and varn i shed
or l eft raw. Attracti vel y fn
i shed, t hey can be us ed as a
room di vi der in a s mal l apart
ment , provi di ng that t he heat
and s unl i ght requi rements ore
observed.
MODULAR WI NE R ACKS
r
4
1
4

USE PLYWOOD THROUGHOUT.
%" FOR BACKS AND BOTTOMS
" FOR NECK RESTS
1" FOR SIDES
OVERLAPPING THE
BACK PIECES AND
FRONT RESTS BY
" LOCKS EACH
MODULE TO
THE ONE
BELOW
SIDES FOR
BASE
MODULE
ONLY.
MAKE Z
FRONT
RESTS
FOR
NECKS
S E R V I NG WI N E
A l ot of nons ensic al " rul es, " ostentati ous ri tual , and
meani ngl ess proc edures have, f or too l ong, un n ec es
sar i l y compl ic ated the si mpl e bus i ness of servi n g wi ne.
Li ke any ot her food, c ertai n commons ens e proc edures
are fol l owed for t he c onveni enc e and enj oyment of
those who are to partake of i t. The c ons i derate hosts
serve the food in the usual or der, eac h di s h c ool , c ol d,
or hot , as i t s rec i pe requi res, and i n t he type of pl ate,
bowl , or c u p best sui ted for i t. A guest woul d have
good reason to be c onc er ned about the s anity of a
host who took t he temperature of t he soup wi t h a ther-
mometer, and t hen proc eeded to serve it i n a saucer !
There are wi ne t her mometers on sal e, pr obabl y next
door to the shop s el l i ng thi mbl e- si zed c ol or ed stem
war e as "wi n e gl asses . " Let' s t h row out t hi s fool i s h ness
and exami n e some mor e s ens i bl e al t er nati ves :
TEMPERATURE. Most whi te
wi nes taste better when cool .
The degr ee of cool nes s , or col d,
i s compl et el y a matter of per
sonal preference. The del i cate
favor and fragrance of a fn e
wh i te wi ne c an di sappear i f i t
i s served t oo col d. A poorer
wh ite wi ne, havi ng l ess to l ose,
can t ake more c h i l l i n g than a
f ner vi ntage. The te mperature
can be deter mi ned by feel ,
ei ther on the hand, or hol di ng
t he bottl e agai n st t he cheek.
Ros es , l i ke wh i tes, s houl d be
served cool , and t he observa
ti ons above appl y ta them.
Reds a r e s upposed t o be
served "at room temperature. "
Thi s i s a ph rase whi c h has con
f used many peopl e, s o l et ' s l ook
1 1 4
at what it real l y means . It ori g i
nated i n t he days before cen
t r al heat i ng and ai r- cond i t i on
i ng, when wi ne c el l ars were
real l y col d rooms bel ow g rou n d
l evel , a n d di ni ng rooms were
heated by a frepl ace.
A r ed wi ne shoul d reac h
" room temperat ure" af ter bei n g
brought f r om a cool er c el l ar or
storage cl oset by standi ng for
an hour or two i n a room
where t he te mperat ure i s be
tween 70

and 80

F. The wi ne
i t s el f s houl d not be 70

, much
l ess 80

1 Never t r y to speed t he
process by appl yi ng any heat.
The wi ne wi l l warm i n t he gl as s
af t er a f ew moments. Her e
agai n , t he t emperature i s a
matter of per sonal preferenc e.
OPE NI NG THE BOTTLE. Red
wi nes s houl d be opened about
one hour before servi ng. Thi s
enabl es t he wi ne to come i n
contact wi t h t he ai r and re
l ease t he compl ex fragran ces
of i ts bouquet. I t i s cal l ed . . l et
t i ng the wi ne breathe. . . The
better t he red wi ne, t he more
i mportant thi s procedure be
comes. Wh i te wi nes do not
seem to need thi s l ang peri od
of breat hi ng and may be
opened a few moments before
servi n g.
Whenever possi bl e, t he wi ne
shoul d be opened at t he t abl e,
provi di ng a pl easurabl e ant i ci
pat i on for t hose who are t o
s hare i t. The caps ul e can be
torn of, or for those who en j oy
the l ooks of a wi ne bottl e, i t
may be cut caref ul l y j ust be
l ow t he batt l e' s l i p. The cork
i s then wi ped wi th a damp
s ponge or c l ot h t o r emove any
mol d or at her matter whi ch may
have accu mul ated u nder the
capsul e and wou l d be l i kel y to
i mpart a bad taste to the wi ne.
The cork i s t hen extracted
and, if necessary, t he l i p i s
wi ped. Pul l i ng t he c or k can be
don e wi t h a four i s h or i n em
barras s i ng, fu mbl i ng i gnomi ny,
dependi ng on whether you
have a good corkscrew or not.
Al l t he l everage devi ces on
corkscrews are good and a
great hel p i n extract i ng t he
someti mes t enaci ous bar r i er be
tween you and t he wi ne. The
s ame can n ot be s ai d about t he
. . worm, . . t he bus i ness end of
t he tool and t he real l y i mpor
tant part. Too many corkscrews
are real l y augers whi c h bore a
hol e i n t he cork, weakeni ng i t
or even tear i ng O gapi ng hol e
down t he center.
A proper worm i s a coi l ed
s pi ral of steel wi re, wi th t he
poi nt exactly i n line wi th t he
s pi ral , not centered on i t. The
open s pac e i n t he mi ddl e of
t he spi r al mus t be l ar ge enough
t o al l ow an %
"
- wi de paper
match to be i nserted. Fi nal l y
t he wor m s hou l d be 2 %
"
l ong,
t he si ze of t he l ongest corks.
1 1 5
Hovi ng opened t he bott l e,
t he host wi l l pour s ome wi ne
i nto h i s gl oss, exami ne i t wi t h
out maki ng a " product i on, "
sni f i t , and taste i t before he
pour s for hi s g uests. Thi s i s a
s ens i bl e and graci ous tradi t i on.
Hi s g l oss wi l l cat ch any stray
bi ts of cork present , and he
wi l l as s ure hi ms el f that t he wi ne
i s ft to serve to hi s guests.
There i s another "trad i t i on, "
hopeful l y on i ts way to obl i vi on,
of wrappi ng t he bot t l e i n a
napki n, a poi nt l ess and s i l l y
afectat i on. Al l i t does i s t o hi de
t he l abel from t he i nterested
g uest who i s curi ous about the
wi ne.
WI NEGLASSES p rovi de a fel d
day i n t he exerci se of fool i s h
ness and t he expl oi tati on of
credul ous i nnocents.
I n t he i sol at i on of medi eval
t i mes , every wi ne- growi ng re
g i on devel oped i ts own type of
dr i nki ng vessel , and l at er i t s
own des i gn i n wi negl asses. The
eye does pl ay a por t i n our en-
1 1 6
j oyment of wi ne, and any wi ne
worth dr i nki ng s eems to taste
better i n a cl ear, c rystal l i ne
l ong-stemmed g l oss t han i n a
t i n cup. But t here is no need
to hove cl osets ful l of assorted
gl osses to match the types of
wi nes served. The al l - purpose
wi negl ass, a graceful t ul i p
s haped bowl at op a wel l - pro
porti oned stem, i s adequate and
sati sfactory for servi ng al l
wi nes. I t was pi oneered by t h e
l ate Harol d Gros s man and other
s ens i bl e wi ne l overs and i s now
mode by a n u mber of gl os s
manufacturers . The pr i ce i s rea
sonabl e and i t con be f ound
i n any good depor t ment store.
I f a l i tt l e more vari ety i s de
s i red, two othe r gl osses s hown
bel ow ore recommended. Wi ne
gl asses shoul d be I o rge enough
t o hol d a f our-ounce servi ng
when hal f - f ul l , and cl ear to ap
pr eci at e t he col or.
You con use t he t h i mbl e- si zed
wi negl asses Aunt Mary gave
you as a weddi ng present to
serve cordi al s .
DECANTI NG is necessar y when
servi ng a red wi ne whi ch, i n
t he course of agi ng, has t hrown
a deposi t of s edi ment on t he
s i de of t he bottl e. I t i s poi nt
l ess to decant a cl ear wi ne.
One wi t h a ver y s l i ght deposi t
may be poured di rectl y by t he
exerc i s e of care or wi t h t he
hel p of a wi ne basket.
Decant i ng requi res O f unnel ,
a source of l i ght, a decanter,
and a steady hand. The l atter
deter mi nes the proporti on of
cl ear wi ne obtai ned before
pour i ng has to stop.
The bottl e to be decanted can
be ta ken d i rectl y f rom t he
storage rac k, gentl y so as not t o
di st urb t he s edi ment deposi t ed
on t he si de, and decant ed. I f
t i me al l ows, i t may be stood
upr i ght for a few days, al l ow
i ng t he depos i t to s l i de gentl y
dawn t he si de i nto t he groove
at t he bottom. Thi s us ual l y i n
s ures a greater amount of cl ear
wi ne to be extracted.
Decanti ng nor mal l y proceeds
as out l i ned i n t he fol l owi ng
fve steps '
1 . The ent i r e caps ul e i s r e
moved so t hat t he wi ne pass i ng
t hr ough t h e n ec k can be cl ear l y
seen.
2. The neck and cor k a re wi ped
cl ean of mol d on d ot her matter.
d. The cork i s extracted.
. A l i ght s ource, a s mal l fas h
l i ght or c andl e, i s posi t i oned s o
as t o s h i ne u p t hrou gh t he neck
of t he bott l e as t he wi ne i s
poured t hroug h t he f unnel i nto
t he decanter.
5. At t he frst si gn of sedi ment
t hread or part i cl es swi mmi ng by
i n t he i l l u mi nat ed por t i on of
t he neck, pour i ng s t ops . Car e
f ul , steady pour i ng s houl d r e
s ul t i n al l but an ounce or two
of muddy l i qui d bei ng l eft i n
t h e bott l e. Do n ot attempt to
sal vage the remai ns by f urt her
decant i ng or f l teri n g. The wi n e
i n t he decanter s h ou l d be
s par kl i ng cl ear . The fool i s h ri t
ual of s mel l i ng t he cork i s one
we cou l d al l do wi t hout . Si nc e
t he hos t h as t he frst dr i nk
poured i n hi s g l as s , h e can tel l
from i t whet her t h e wi n e i s
"corky" or not .
1 1 7
T H E WI N E T AS T I NG P AR T Y
Over the past few years thi s pl easant and temperate
form of entertai nment has become i ncreasi ngly popu
l ar. I ts great fexi bi l ity adapts to any si ze crowd, any
si ze pl ace, and any si ze budget . The wi ne provi des
conversati on pi ece for even the shi est guest. New taste
har moni es are di scovered. The party provi des a most
pl easant way to l earn more about wi nes. A few sug
gesti ons fol l ow, only to poi nt the way, for t he vari ety
of possi bi l i ti es i s al most i nfnite, l i mi ted on l y by the i n
genuity of t he host or hostess i n both t he wi nes that. are
served and the food that best sets of the wi nes .
THE NUMBER OF WI NES to be
served can vary from a mi n i mum
of f our t o a max i mu m of ei ght.
Si x wi nes hove proven to be
j ust about t he most popul ar as
sort ment t hat non- professi onal s
con cope wi t h. The i deo i s t o
taste, exchange i mpressi ons, and
en joy t he wi nes .
THE AMOUNT OF WI NE i s, of
course, di rectl y rel ated to t he
number of peopl e at the party.
For tasti ng purposes, a bottl e
of wi ne i s gen eral l y esti mated
to serve from 1 2 to 1 8 persons .
Eac h get s about two ounc es of
t he wi ne, an a mount s ufci ent
to deter mi ne t he c haracteri sti cs
and form on i mpr essi on. Thi s
does nat al l ow f or seconds, but
i f s i x wi nes are presented, each
guest wi l l consu me t he equi va
l ent of a hal f-batt l e. Thi s i s a
sati sfyi ng amount but not
enough to i mpai r facul t i es, espe
ci al l y when t he wi ne i s token
wi th adequate food.
1 1 8
THE CHOI CE OF WI NE to serve
at a wi netos t i ng party i s l i mi ted
onl y by avai l abi l i ty and bud
get. Even wi t h i n t he l i mi t at i ons
of a very modest budget t he
t hemes and var i at i ons are al
mos t un l i mi ted. The wi nes can,
f or i nstance, be al l reds, al l
whi tes, or a combi nat i on. They
may be wi nes of one country
or of several count r i es, or a
vari etal from sever al reg i ons ,
or assorted vi ntage year s of a
s i ngl e wi ne, or d i ferent wi nes
of a g i ven year, et c.
THE FOOD, l i ke t he wi nes, con
be as s i mpl e or as el aborate as
t he host s, or group, deci de.
The us ual , s i mpl est, and
l east expensi ve i s bread or
crackers wi t h ass orted c heeses.
Usual l y t he mi l der c heeses
whi c h set of wi ne to best ad
vantage wi thout overpower i ng
t he mor e del i cate ones ar e
recommended: Swi s s , Gouda,
Muenster, Font i na, Br i e, and
Camembert are among t hose
easi l y obtai nabl e.
Hot hers d ' oeuvres, ca napes,
fresh fru i t, and raw vegetabl es
wi th di ps are more el aborate
accompan i ments. Sti l l more
el aborate i s a bufet chosen lO
accompany the sel ected wi nes .
Each cour s e of t he bufet can
have i t s own wi ne. Aga i n , t he
host s' i magi nat i on can r ange
far and wi de, re member i ng t hat
t he maj ori t y of wi nes are made
to accompany food.
GLASSES, unt i l recent l y, were a
probl em for t he hosts of a home
wi nelasti n g. Not everyone has
a hoard of stemwore to serve
s i x or more wi nes to a score
of guests. Rent i ng g l asses from
a cater i ng servi ce i s not al
ways conven i ent or wi t h i n t he
budgeted expens e. The bes t so
l ut i on has come i n t he form of
t he i nexpens i ve, di s posabl e,
c rystal - cl ear pl ast i c 5-ounce
"gl as s . " I t has been wel l re
cei ved at t he fanci est f ul l - dress
afai rs as wel l as at t he s i mpl est.
A separate g l oss can be pro
vi ded for each wi ne; r i ns i ng
Crystal - cl ear pl ast i c "g l asses"
ore attracti ve and i nexpens i ve.
bowl s can be conveni entl y l o
cat ed i f onl y one g l ass i s used;
or new gl asses can be used
when s h i f t i ng f r om wh i le to r ed
wi ne, et c.
I f t rul y great wi nes are t o
be tasted, t hey deser ve sep
ar at e an d ftti ng gl assware
whi c h s houl d be avai l abl e to
those who can aford t o serve
the gr ands cr us .
A WI NETASTI NG PARTY can
be g i ven at any t i me, but t he
weekend, from Fri day ni ght t o
Sunday aft ernoon, seems to be
t he preferred ti me. I n good
weat her, faci l i t i es per mi tti ng,
an outdoor sett i ng can be per
fect.
Us ual l y, a wi nelas l i ng of s i x
wi nes l asts a l i ttl e mor e t han
two hour s . Guests shou l d be ad
vi sed t o come on t i me, s o t hat
al l can taste t he s ame wi ne at
t he s ame t i me. I nvi t at i ons
s houl d read : " Sun day af t er noon,
from 4 to 6 PM, starti ng prompt
ly at 4. "
General l y, i t i s a good i dea
to have t he food at separate
t abl es from t he wi ne. Thi s pro
motes free movement and mi x
i ng of t he g uests, an d a freer
exchange of conversat i on.
Smal l buc kets s houl d be pr o
vi ded for t hose who do not
wi s h to fni sh t he wi ne l ef t i n
t hei r gl as s .
Smoki ng prohi bi t i ons, as f ar
as tast i ng wi ne i s concer ned,
appl y onl y to profess i onal s who
mus t keep t hei r pal at es abso
l utel y keen i n order to detect
faul ts i n t he wi nes t hey taste.
They do not t aste for en j oy
ment, as the partygoers do.
1 1 9
Here are s ome suggest i ons to
hel p make your wi netast i ng
party a most en j oyabl e ex
peri ence for bot h hosts and
guest s:
1. I f possi bl e, col l ect t he wi ne
a few days ahead of t he party
and rest i t, s tan di n g upr i ght.
2. Ar ran ge t he tabl e or tabl es
for t he food and wi ne to al l ow
free movement of t he guest s.
3. Cool t he whi t e wi nes and
t he roses i n ti me for servi ng
at t he des i red t emperature.
Open t he red wi nes obout one
hour before s ervi ng.
. P l an the sequence of servi ng:
wh i tes before r eds , and dry
wi nes before t he sweeter ones.
5. The pour i ng can be done by
t he hosts al one, for a s mal l
gather i ng, by hel pers, or t he
guests can hel p t hemse l ves.
6. Provi de materi al for maki ng
notes. Rul ed i ndex cords, 3" X
5
"
, ore fn e for very bri ef nota
ti ons; l arger s i zes may be un
wi el dl y.
t -~

Here is a s i l l y, ostentat i ous way
of hol di ng a stemmed wi ne
gl ass. There i s no sci ent i fc or
sensi bl e j ust i fcat i on for t hi s
form of wi ne snobbery.
1 20
Avoi d j argon, one of t he
many obnoxi ous attr i but es of
t he wi n e s nob. I t i s far more
agreeabl e, for most peopl e, to
s hare a pl easant exper i ence
t han t o put down a novi ce by
fatteni ng one' s ego at hi s ex
pense. The onl y th i n g fattened
i s an al ready adi pose head.
I t i s, admi ttedl y, d i fc ul t to
descri be t he taste of wi ne and
ot her foods, but i t c an be done
i n s i mpl e t er ms .
A. W. laubenga;er, frst
Pres i dent of t he Amer i can Wi ne
Soci ety, O cons umer-ori ented
group, proposed a l i st whi c h i s
a model f or cl ear descr i pt i on of
t he attr i butes of wi ne:
To descri be col or: Cl ear, bri l
l i ant, hazy, cl oudy, red, whi te,
rose, pal e gr een, g reeni s h-yel
l ow, nearl y col orl ess, gol den,
amber, straw, pi n k, l i ght red,
ru by, tawny, brown.
To descri be body, t he feel i ng
of s ubstance i n wi ne: Thi n, l i ght,
f ul l - bodi ed, heavy, vi scous.
The st em i s not onl y a s upport
for the bowl , but provi des a
gr acef ul an d natural handl e for
hol d i ng t he gl ass s ecurel y i n
any nor mal pos i t i on.
To descri be odor: Fr agr ant,
grapy, fowery, del i cate, frui ty,
s picy, s harp, aci di c, vi negary,
unpl easant, pungent, s ul f urous,
medi ci nal , mus ty, yeasty, earthy.
To descri be taste: Dry, semi
dry, sweet, c l oyi ng, tart, s harp,
fresh, ni ppy, refres hi ng, vi ne
gary, s our , aci di c, cl ean, bi tter,
f rui ty, mel l ow, soft, s moot h,
del i cate, hars h , s pri t el y, fat ,
bl and, i ns i pi d, coarse, puckery,
astri ngent, robust, yeasty, nutty,
ran k, earthy, musty, mousey,
woody, res i nous , medi ci nal , etc.
THE B. Y. O. B. PARTY. The i ni t
i al s stand for Bri ng Your Own
Bott l e, an i ncreas i ngl y popul ar
and very economi cal arrange
ment.
A few compat i bl e peopl e
gat her i n one home, or c l ub
room, eac h pai r of guests br i ng
i ng one bot t l e of wi ne t o
s hare and compare. The food
i s ei t her provi ded by t he host
cou pl e, or i ts cost di vi ded by
those attendi ng. The type of
wi nes shoul d be deci ded i n ad
vance, when t he party i s
pl anned.
Of t en t hese gat her i ngs de
vel op i nto ver y pl eas ant "t ast
i ng cl ubs . " A good way to start
a c hai n of part i es of thi s ki nd
i s t o have eac h g uest br i ng
hi s favori te wi ne. I t hel ps t o
establ i s h t he t ast e di recti on of
t he group and provi de a gui de
f or f ol l owi ng tast i ngs .
THE BLI ND TASTI NG, where
t he l abel s of t he wi nes are
masked, may be used for a
vari ety of reasons. It adds t he
pl easur abl e el ement of a game
Set- up f or Bl i nd Wi ne Tast i ng.
to t he party at mosphere, and
i t prevents " tas t i ng t he l abel , "
per mi t t i ng t he wi ne t o be
j udged on i ts own meri ts. I t can
be used t o grade t he wi nes
from l east l i ked to best l i ked,
and gradat i ons between t he
t wo extremes.
As knowl edge of the tasters
i ncreases, i t can be used to
i denti fy the wi nes , or t he
grapes, and for real " pros "
t he vi nt age years of a s i n gl e
type of wi n e.
There or e, agai n, i n fn i te op
t i ons for t he us e of bl i nd t ast
i ngs . When wi nes are to be
i dent i fed by type i t i s us ual
t o l eave the bottl e i n a paper
bag, t i ed under t he neck to
per mi t pouri n g but hi di ng t he
shape of t he bott l e.
Af t er al l have made t hei r
guesses, t he bott l es, or l abel s,
Ore un covered. Forbearance t o
cr ow over a r i ght choi ce, or
guess, i s a vi rt ue al l t he wrong
guessers wi l l appreci ate. Re
member that dr i nki ng wi ne i s
essenti al l y f un, and i ts enj oy
ment may be di mi ni s hed by
taki ng the art of wi netasti ng
t oo seri ousl y. As the ki ndl y
phi l osopher, Harry Gol den,
s ays : " Enj oy! Enj oy! ".
1 2 1
WI N I N G AND D I N I N G OU T
Restaur ant s servi ng good food and good wi n e at
reasonabl e pri ces ar e very rare. The number i s s l owl y
i ncreasi ng, however, due l ar gel y to pressure from more
k nowl edgeabl e cons umer s.
The mar kup on wi n e i n a restaur ant can doubl e or
tri pl e t he cost of the wi n e compared wi t h i t s pri ce i n a
retai l stor e. Often t he bi g mar kups are on wi nes
bottl ed for restaurant use excl usi vel y.
When restaurateurs fnal l y real i ze that havi ng wi nes
at pri ces t he aver age pat r on can aford wi l l i ncrease
t hei r revenue, we shal l be abl e to have wi ne routi nel y
wi t h our meal s wi t hout bei ng victi mi zed by r i di cul ousl y
hi gh pr i ces.
A wi ne l i st shoul d gi ve a good range of choi ce, i n
keepi ng wi th t he menu bei ng ofered. I t s houl d have a
few hi g h- qual i ty wi nes, a l ar ger n u mber of good
qual i ty wi nes i n a moderate pri ce r ange, and a few
acceptabl e, honest car afe wi nes whi ch ca n a l so be
had by t he gl as s . There shoul d be a reasonabl e bal
ance of i mported and Ameri can vi ntages .
THE WI NE L I ST s houl d be, but
sel dom i s , brought t o you to
get her wi th t he menu. Ask for
i t before you order anyth i ng.
Sc an both qu i ckl y to get a gen
er al i dea of what i s avai l abl e.
Then, when you and your guests
have made your c hoi ces from
the menu, t he wi ne or wi nes
can be sel ected.
I f a r ed wi ne s ui ts everyone' s
choi ce, l ook for Ameri can vori e
tal s, Frenc h Cotes du Rhone,
Beau j ol ai s, or mi nor Bordeaux
Chat eaux for your best buys.
1 2 2
If a wh i te wi ne is des i red,
l ook agai n a mong t he Amer i
can var i et al s or generi cs, French
Muscadets, Al sat i an or Ger man
regi anal s , and I tal i an wh i tes for
the l ower- pri ced good buys.
Seek names t hat you recog
ni ze for an i ndi cat i on of the
pri ce mar kup, as wel l as for
t he qual i ty range of t he wi nes
ofered. Ask t he wi ne steward
for advi ce, but don ' t feel obl i
gat ed to f ol l ow i t . A good wi ne
steward wi l l respond t o your i n
terest i n h i s wi nes, a poor one
Pl ayi ng t he "cork game" wi t h t he wi ne wai t er.
wi l l try to push t he wi nes wi t h
t he bi ggest mar kup.
I f t he choi ce f rom t he menu
i s mi xed you can or der two
wi nes, in hal f-batt l es or carafes
i f t he l atter are avai l abl e. Do
not be bul l i ed i nto get t i ng an
expens i ve wi ne.
Once you have made your
choi ce, order the wi ne i mmedi
atel y on d g i ve s peci fc orders
t hat i t be served wi th t he di s h
i t accompani es .
WHEN THE WI NE COMES, i t
s houl d be present ed t o you un
opened so you c an veri fy t hat i t
i s t he one you or der ed. look for
di screpanci es i n vi nt age year,
name, or bran d. You need not
refuse i t i f a pl aus i bl e expl ana
t i on for any c hange i s gi ven
ond you are sat i sfed t hat an i n
feri or wi ne has not been s u bsti
tuted. When you hove ver i fed
t hat i t i s t he one des i red, t he
wai t er wi l l open i t and pour you
a smal l quant i ty for your ap
proval . look for a good cl ear
col or . I f t he wi ne i s cl oudy or
hazy, r ef us e i t . I f t he c ol or i s
good, s ni f f or u n pl easan t s mel l s .
A corky or a s ul f urous s mel l i s
cause f or r ej ect i on. I f t he wi ne
posses t hi s lest, taste i t . I f t he
taste i s u n pl easant, bac k i t goes.
Ot her wi se you c on si gnal t hat
i t i s acceptabl e and may be
poured.
I n s ome restaurant s t he wi ne
steward wi l l wont to pl oy "t he
cork game. " He wi l l hand you
t he cork and you ore expected
to sni f and exami ne i t for
s i gns of det eri orat i on whi c h
may have afected t he wi ne.
Thi s i s a poi nt l ess r i t ual s i nce
you wi l l t ast e t he wi ne before
accepti ng i t . You can pl ay the
game i f i t a muses you.
When you refuse a wi ne,
t here s houl d be no argu ment
f rom ei t her t he wi ne steward or
t he captai n . Us ual l y, however,
you wi l l be sat i sfed wi th the
wi ne, and i n t hat case do not
hes i tate to tel l t he wai ter, the
wi ne steward, and t he manager.
Encourage t he s ervi ng of good
wi nes at reas onabl e pri ces.
1 23
WI NE A N D WE D D I N GS
Wi ne has been cl osel y associ ated wi th weddi ngs from
t i me i mmemor i al -i n t he ri tual of many cul tures and
rel i gi ons and i n t he feast fol l owi ng t he ceremony. I n
our Western cul t ure t he newl yweds ar e tradi ti onal l y
toasted i n Champagne or a festi ve spar kl i ng wi ne.
Some Eastern countri es, i nfuenced by t he West, have
t aken u p t hi s pl easant custom.
The Champagne and Champagne punches s erved
at a weddi ng recepti on add gai ety to the occasi on
wi t hout addi ng to t he fnanci al burden on t he fat her
of t he br i de. Champagne can actual l y be l ess expen
si ve t han t he equi val ent i n hard l i quor . I t can be
served at a stand- up recepti on or at a si t - down di nner ,
and i s al ways i mpressi ve and r eal l y festi ve.
1 24
GOOD CHAMPAGNE is avai l
abl e in a wi de pr i ce range. The
mare expensi ve French Cham
pagnes cos t fram t wi ce to t hree
ti mes as much as Ameri can
Cha mpagnes. Vi nt age products
cast a few dol l ars more t han
non- vi ntage ones . Bott l e- fer
mented Champagne costs more
than bul k- process wi ne. A non
vi ntage Cal i for ni a or New Yor k
St at e Cha mpagne i s often the
best buy. Spar kl i ng wi nes pro
duced by arti fc i al carbonat i on
are not recommended.
FOR CHAMPAGNE PUNCH i t i s
n ot essent i al t a use t he h i ghest
qual i ty Champagn e. I t s houl d
be a good one but a l ower
pri ced type can be us ed. The
del i cate favor of t he wi ne l ends
t o be s ubdued i n punc h.
THE BRI DE is often gi ven a
n u mber of s howers, and wi t h
you ng peopl e' s growi ng i nterest
i n wi ne, o wi ne s hower for the
groom i s becomi n g a wel come
event i n whi ch t he us ual l y i g
nor ed mol e gets o pl ace i n t he
s un dur i ng t he pr enupt i al fest i v
i t i es. The a i m of t he wi ne show
er i s to start t he newl yweds
wi th a wi ne cel l ar , even i f i t
mus t resi de i n t he cool est c l oset
of t hei r f ut ure home i n a ci t y
apar t ment .
Obvi ous l y t he f rst choi ce for
a gi ft wi l l be wi ne i t sel f-a
bot t l e, on assort ment, or a case.
I f t he cou pl e-to-be hove known
preferences, that makes t he
choi ce eas i er ; i f not , t he donor
s houl d be gui ded by hi s or her
own preference.
There are many at her choi ces,
besi des wi nes whi ch make very
s u i tabl e gi fts for a wi ne s h ow
er: Corkscrews, pl ai n Of fancy,
as l ong as they have a proper
"worm, " as descri bed earl i er
( page 1 1 5) ; cork extractors of
t he ai r- press ure vari ety; al l
purpose wi ne glasses, as de
scri bed on page 1 1 6; decanters;
decanti ng funnels*gl oss, pl as
t i c, or s i l ver; and bollle rocks,
whi c h come in every s hape, ma
teri al , and s i ze i magi nabl e.
Wi ne an d wi ne cookery
books ore a wel come addi t i on
to t he you ng wi ne l overs ' book
s hel ves. See page 1 54.
The wi ne s hower can be com
bi ned wi t h o n i n for mal wi ne
t ast i ng, feat ur i ng s ome of t he
wi nes brought as gi fts.
1 25
WINE AND FOOD
For most wi nes, a happy marr i age wi th food i s t he
i deal cul mi nati on of l i fe, t he desti ny t hei r makers i n
tended. The occasi on can be a royal feast , such as
t he matchi ng of a grand cru wi t h a masterpi ece of
haute cuisine, or i t may be a j oyous, un pretenti ous
country weddi ng of an honest, sturdy vi nt age wi th a
s i mpl e but tasty di s h.
The mat chi ng of wi ne t o food, l i k e al l taste prefer
ences, i s essenti al l y a s ubj ecti ve operati on. There are
no rules, onl y opinions The combi nati ons general l y
accepted as " rul es " are onl y the opi ni ons of many
epi cures, gour mets, and others, not necessari l y a
maj ori ty, and i n any case can not be bi ndi ng on any
one. There i s no right or wrong choi ce. J ust as beauty
i s in the eye of the behol der, a sati sfyi ng combi nati on of
tastes l i es i n t he taste buds of t he taster .
Vari ati ons fr om the cons ens us are not mistakes but
s i mpl y refect a mor e or l ess unorthodox taste. I t woul d
be pr esumptuous t o condemn an unorthodox choi ce
or deni grate t he taste of the person maki ng i t.
On t he fol l owi ng pages ar e suggesti ons for wi ne
food combi nati ons . The l i sti ngs start wi th t he most
general l y accepted matchi ngs and proceed t hrough
other possi bi l i ti es t o t he mor e unus ual combi nati ons .
The types of wi nes may be l i sted i n br oad categori es,
such as "Cl aret, " whi ch t hen stands for most cl arets,
from Chateau- bottl ed Cl as si fed Growt hs to Cl aret
type j ug wi ne. The wi ne chosen wi t hi n t hat broad
range may depend on pri ce, avai l abi l i ty, or, more t o
t he poi nt, t he sel ector ' s taste prefer ence.
Al l t he photogr aphs of food i n t hi s secti on ar e by
courtesy of t he Cal i for ni a Wi ne I nsti tut e.
1 27
APPETI ZERS, often ser ved as a
stand- up prel ude Ia a meal ,
a l l ow far t he g reatest vari ety
of wi nes to be served with t he
goodi es . Champagne or ot her
s par kl i ng wi nes, and roses wi l l
us ual l y serve for any combi na
t i on. Dry Sherries are al s o O0
al l - purpose appet i zer accom
pan i ment . One wi ne may be
s erved or several , but more t han
t hree can be consi dered a bi t
os t ent at i ous u n l ess t he event i s
a sort of mi n i - wi ne tasti ng. let
t he degree of favor i n t he
f ood deter mi r e t he wi ne; serve
s ubt l e, del i cat e wi nes wi t h mi l d
favored food, bi gger wi nes
wi t h t he s t ronger-favored foods.
Cheeses: Most wi nes go wel l
wi t h most cheeses, but agai n
t he degr ee of favor s houl d de
ter mi ne t he choi ce af wi ne. The
st ronger c heeses s uc h as aged
Cheddar, St i l t on, an d Roq ue-
fort cal l far t he bi g r ed Bur
gundi es, Baral o an d Clarets,
t he bi gger dry Sherries an d
Madeiras. Wi t h mi l der c heeses
s uch as Bri e, Swi ss, and Muen
st er, serve l i g ht er r eds l i ke
Beaujolais, l i ght Clarets, l i ght
dry Sherries, an d loire, Prov
ence, and New York State reds.
Dry and even s emi - dry whi te
wi nes ar e very s ui tabl e wi t h
most chees es . Pi not Chardon
nay, Pinot Blanc, Mosels, Ge
wirztrami ners, and Chi lean Cho
blis are but a few s ugges t i ons
to accompany t hes e.
Cavi ar: Dry Sherry, Chablis,
Champagne, sparkl i ng rose.
Smoked Sal mon: Dry Sherry,
dry Madeira, Champagne_ and
ot her sparkl i ng wi nes.
Oysters an d Shel l fsh: Chablis,
Pi not Blanc, Pi nal Chardonnay,
dry Graves, dry Sherry, Green
Hungarian.
SOUPS var y in text ure as wel l
as taste, f rom cl ear consomme
t o t hi c k an d hearty mi n est rone,
and s ome ar e s erved col d, ot h
ers hot . The menu can be
pl anned so that the same wi ne
i s served t hr oughout t he meal ,
beg i n n i n g at t he sou p course.
The s ame r ul e of t humb hol ds
her e: hearty wi nes wi t h hearty
soups, del i cat e wi nes wi th t he
mor e s ubt l y favored s oups .
Cream Soups, s uch as bi s ques ,
mi l k or crea m c howders or
creamed vegetabl es are en
hanced by dry wh i t e wi nes such
as Poui l l y-Fuisse, Cheni n Bl anc,
Alsatians, Mosel s. Or serve semi
dry whi tes such as Pi neau de I a
Loi re, Graves, Rhei ngaus, Soave,
and t he al l - purpose roses. New
Yark State, Ohia and Canadi an
whites are a bi t sweet er but
wel l sui ted t a the del i cat e soups.
Turt l e Soup and bl ack bean
soup are enha nced by addi ng
a t abl espoon af medi um Sherry
t o each pl at ef ul . The s ame Sher
ry can, of cour se, be served to
t he guest s.
Hearty Soups s uch as Beef an d
Vegetabl e, Oxtai l , et c. , ar e very
goad wi th whatever red wi ne i s
to fol l ow. Zinfandel , Ch i anti,
Beau; ol ais, Nebbiolo, an d Span
i sh reds are al l among t he s ui t
abl e wi nes an d add a savory
touch t o al l h earty soups.
1 29
S I MPLE DI SHES, good i n t hem
s el ves become even bet t er when
served wi t h a n i ce, s i mpl e wi ne.
The Amer i can j ug wi nes ar e t he
bes t an swer to what wi ne to
serve wi t h s uch popul ar st apl e
d i s hes as hamburgers, hot dogs,
baked bean s, Spor and ot her
l u ncheon meat s, t oast ed cheese
s andwi ches , has h, et c.
The next best choi ce i s t he
i nexpens i ve good wi nes of
Spai n, I tal y, Port ugal , Aust ral i a,
Ch i l e, Germa ny, and France.
However, i t has become i n creas
i ngl y di fc ul t t o fnd i nexpen
s i ve good wi nes f r om Ger many
an d France, al t hough some are
st i l l avai l abl e.
Hamburger, meat l oaf, meat
pat t i es and t he l i ke are en
hanced by s uch wi nes as Cal i
f or ni a Zi nfandel, Gal l o' s Hearty
Burgundy an d Paisano, Ch ri s
t i an Brot her s ' Burgundy, and
New Yor k State reds.
Hot Dogs, l uncheon meats, col d
cuts, and ot her s pi ced or pre
served meat s are us ual l y best
wi t h dry wh i te wi nes .
1 30
There are any n u mber of
Cal i f or ni a and New York St at e
Chabli s-type j ug wi nes whi c h,
t houg h t hey bear l i tt l e or no
resembl ance to t rue Chabl i s, are
good compani ons for s pi ced
meat s. Ot her choi ces i nc l ude
Rhi ne-type Amer i can an d Chi l
ean wi nes .
Cheese s andwi ches, rarebi t s,
et c. , are good wi t h ei t her red,
wh i t e, or rose j ug wi nes . The
degree of dryness i s t he dri n k
er ' s choi ce.
Hash, and var i at i ons on t hat
t heme, s eem s ui ted to roses and
reds, t he roses preferabl y on
t he dry si de.
Sal ads made wi t h vi negar a re
i nc ompat i bl e wi t h any wi ne.
Those made wi t hout vi negar ar e
of t en good wi t h t he al l - pu rpose
roses, or wi t h l i ght wh i tes whi c h
can ra nge f r om dry to reason
abl y sweet , agai n dependi ng
on t he di ner ' s personal prefer
enc e.
I f you are an adul t addi ct ed
to peanut butter sandwi ches, t r y
a gl ass of Zi nfandel wi t h t hem.
BEEF is u ni ver s al l y con si dered
best served wi t h red wi ne. I f
t he meal i s roasted or broi l ed,
t he range of choi ce i s very
wi de, starl i ng wi t h Clarets,
t h roug h the bi gger Burgundies,
progres s i ng t hr ough the hearty
Ch iantis a nd robust Barolos, to
the big dar k Spanish and Hun
garian reds.
I f wi ne i s used i n cooki ng
t he meat , or i n t he pr eparat i on
of i t s s auce, t he s ame wi ne
s houl d be served wi t h t he beef.
I n Amer i can reds, Cal i forni a' s
vari etal s ofer a wi de range of
t ast e and degrees of bi g ness.
New York St at e reds are l i g ht er.
The French reds, besi des t hose
named above, can i n c l ude t hose
of t he Jura and Loire, both
l i g ht er and l ess expens i ve. Al so
an t he l i ghter si de are t he I tal
i an Valpolicellas, t he Portu
guese Vi nho Verdes, and the
Spani s h Ri oias.
The qual i ty of t he wi ne
s houl d be mat c hed lO t he qual
i t y of t he meal-a nobl e roast
wi th a grand cru, mi n ute steak
wi t h j ug red.
LAMB, bei ng a l i gh ter red meat
t han beef , cal l s for rel at i vel y
l i ghter red wi nes t hat wi l l not
overpower t he del i cate favor
of t he meat but enhance i t.
F i ne red Bordeaux and aged
Cal i f or ni a Cabernels are gener
al l y con s i dered t op c hoi ces for
roasted or br oi l ed fne cut s.
The fol l owi ng red wi nes are
al so emi nent l y su i tabl e: Beau
iolais, Loi re, Jura, t he l i gh ter
Cotes du Rhone, Ameri can va
ri elal s such as Gamay, l i ght
Pi nal Nair, an d Baco. L i ght Ital
i an and Portuguese reds can be
very good wi th l amb.
Here agai n, i f a red wi ne
has been used i n t he cooki ng,
i t s houl d be t he choi ce for
servi ng wi th the di s h .
Th e al l - purpose rase may
al so be used, provi di ng i t i s
nat t oo sweet . Whi l e whi tes a re
not t he usual c hoi ce, s ome of
t he bi gger Al sat i an wi nes can
be excel l ent wi t h l a mb, part i cu
l ar l y i f i t i s cooked wi t h t he
s ame whi le wi ne. The Ger mans
ser ve t hei r dr i er wh i t es wi t h
l amb di s hes.
1 3 1
VEAL tast es best wi th wi nes
t hat wi l l not overpower i t s del i
cate favor. The l i ghter wi nes ,
whi t es, r os es , and some r eds
ore t he best c hoi ces. The l i ght
reds ar e i n di cated when t he
veal i s made wi t h a tasty sauce,
t he wh i t es and roses when
roasted.
Many of t he Amer i can wh i te
vari etal s can be used wi t h great
success. The bi g whi te Burgun
di es of France are often tao
much of a good t hi ng f or veal .
The l i ghtest red Bordeaux,
Beaujolais, an d Amer i can red
vari etal s , part i cul arl y the New
York reds, are favored by many
f ar veal , part i cul ar l y when i t i s
served wi t h a wi ne sauce, as i n
t h e case of Veal Scal l opi ni or
Veal Mars al a. I n t he l atter case,
t he Marsal a wi ne i s not rou
t i nel y served, cont rary to t he
usual rul e of t h umb of servi ng
t he wi ne used i n prepar i ng i t .
FRESH PORK, c an be treated
muc h l i ke veal .
The wh i te wi nes can be a
l i tt l e bi gger, and mos t peopl e
i n t he Un i ted States seem t o
prefer a not t oo dry whi t e wi t h
roost por k. Rases are us ual l y
excel l ent wi t h f r es h park, and
t he degree of dryness i s onc e
agai n a matter of personal
preference. The dry Tavels and
t he Provence rases have O ni c e
"edge" of ac i di ty whi c h cut s
t he fatti nes s of park.
The reds, even t he l i ghtest
ones, do nat seem to be the
favori te or even popul ar choi ce
to go wi t h fresh por k. A pos
si bl e except i on cou l d be made
i n t he case of t he l i g htest Por
t uguese Vi nho Verdes. However,
t here i s n o rule, as such, and
i f you l i ke a red wi t h par k, en
j oy i t !
Spark l i n g wi nes , i f not too
sweet, can be qui t e s ui tabl e.
HAM, especi a l l y baked wi th a
sweet g l azi ng, is one of t he
probl em di s hes to mat c h wi t h
a wi ne. Whi t e wi nes and roses
can provi de a su i t abl e accom
pani ment. Both wh i tes an d
roses ar e us ual l y preferred not
too dry. Many wi ne dr i n kers
wi l l admi t that fresh or hard
ci der or beer taste bet t er wi t h
ham t han many avai l abl e wi nes.
General l y, l i ght fresh wi nes ,
not t oo dry but wi t h a bi t of
tart ness, can be qu i te agree
abl e wi t h ham. The cl ean, re
fres h i n g tast e cut s across t he
pronounced taste of t he ham;
l i kewi se, t he s moky or sal t y
ham taste provi des a counter
poi n t of favor to t he wi ne.
FOWL comes i n such a vari ety
of speci es and i s pr epared i n
s o man y ways t hat each type
of di s h mus t be treated sepa
ratel y.
CHI CKEN, r oasted, i s us ual l y
served wi t h l i ght whi te wi ne or
rose. I t can be served wi t h bi g
ger wi nes, i nc l udi ng t he whi te
Burgundi es, as wel l as t he Ira
grant wi nes of t he Rhei ngau
and Mosel, t he more robust AI
sati ans, t he Cal i f or ni a Gewurz
trami ners, Pi not Chardonnays,
and t he del i cat e New York
State white varietals. The s ame
wi nes c on be s erved i f t he di s h
c omes wi t h a l i ght and del i cate
sauce. Reds can be used wi t h
t he stronger sauces such as
t hos e us ed i n Chi c ken Cacci a
t ore. I n t hat case, serve t he
l i ghter red Bordeaux, American
red vori etal s, and the more del
i cat e I ta/ i an reds.
TURKEY has a st r onger favor
t han c hi c ken, so t he f ul l er whi te
wi nes and t he l i ght reds s ug
gested f or c h i c ken i n t he pre
ced i ng paragr aph can be used .
GOOSE, wi t h s t i l l more favor ,
i s of t en served wi t h l i gh t and
medi um red wi nes, and even
wi t h s ome of t he bi gger red
wi nes, depen di n g on t he man
ner of preparat i on and t he fa
vor of t he sauce wi t h whi c h i t
i s served.
DUCK an d GUI NEA HEN a re
al l dark meat wi t h a pro
nounced, d i s t i nct favor. They
can stand t he bi g whi te wi nes
and medi u m to bi g red ones .
The sauce an d met hod of
cook i ng det er mi n e t he bi gnes s
of t he wi ne to be s er ved wi t h
ei t her . The more pronou nced
t he favor of t he sauce, t he bi g
ger c an be t he favor and body
of t he wi ne served wi t h t he
fowl .
Champagne, l i ke rose, i s an
al l - purpose wi ne wh i c h c an be
served wi t h al l vari et i es of fowl .
1 33
SEAFOOD h as a remarkabl e af
f ni ty for one wi ne above al l
others, t he true Burgundi an
Chabl i s.
However there ore a mul t i
t ude of ot her wh i te wi nes, and
s ome reds too, whi c h can en
hence t he en j oyment of a
seafood di s h. Wi th gr i l l ed,
poached, and mi l dl y seasoned
fs h, t he f ol l owi ng whi tes are
suggested : dry Graves, Meur
sault, Muscadet, Alsatians, dry
Rhei ngaus ond Mosels, Soave,
Verdicchio, Ameri can vari et al s
such as Pinot Blanc, Chardon
nay, Cheni n Blanc, Delaware,
and the dry whi te generi cs
s uch as Chablis and Rhi ne types.
Fi s h wi t h s pi cy or pungent
sauces, l i ke ot her foods, cal l s
f or more favor i n t he wi ne
t hat accompani es i t . Here t he
choi ce broadens wi t h t he addi
t i on of Gewirztrami ner, t he
Hungarian dry whites, t he bi g
ger whi te B urgundies, and whi t e
Hermitage.
1 34
The famed Bouil l abaisse of
Marsei l l e, a wonderf ul l y pun
gent fs h stew, i s tradi t i onal l y
accompani ed by t he dry wh i t e
wi ne of Cassis, a l i t t l e fs hi ng
vi l l age eas t of Marsei l l e. There
are i nfn i t e var i at i ons of t he
reci pe, al l owi ng for an equal
n u mber of var i at i ons i n t he
wi ne to be served. The more
favorf ul dry whi tes are best .
The I t al i an vari at i on, Zuppa di
Pesce, marri es wel l wi t h the dry
I tal i an wh i tes and t hei r Amer
i can equ i val ent s.
Ci oppi no, a s uper b San Fran
c i sco spec i al ty, probabl y i m
parted by I tal i an fs her men,
has a di st i n cti ve pungent com
bi nat i on of t omat oes, garl i c,
bas i l , and oregano added t o
t he fsh and at her seafood. I t i s
cooked i n hearty red wi ne, and
none but a bi g robust r ed c an
be served wi t h i t and survi ve
t he heady taste. The more as
sert i ve Cal i for ni a red vari etal s
ar e natural compani ons for
ci oppi na s uc h as Petite Sirah,
Barbera, and Zinfandel.
Paella, a s uccul ent Spani s h
d i s h whose i ngredi ent s vary
from cook to cook, i s basi cal l y
a combi nat i on of seaf ood and
sausages cooked wi t h safron
ri ce. A feast for t he eye an d
t he pal ate, i t has a r i ch taste
cal l i n g far bi g wi nes, ei t her
r eds or wh i t es dependi ng an
t he basi c i ngredi ent s . The Span
i s h whi t es and r eds of Ri oj a
and of Vol depeias ore obvi
ous l y t he fr s t choi ce, but al
most any bi g dry wh i te, s uch
as Pi not Chardonnay, a nd t he
mul t i t ude of robust reds from
any wi ne country are s ui t abl e.
GAME, whet her feat hered or
furred, i s cons i dered at i t s best
wi t h a red wi ne. A brace of
pheasant s or O haunc h of veni
son i s, for mos t of us, an un
usua l event , a s peci al and fes
t i ve occas i on. I t cal l s for some
of t he best dry reds i n our cel
l ars, a choi ce a mong t he wel l
aged Bordeaux or California
Cabernets of g reat vi nt age, our
great Cotes du Rhone s uc h as
Hermi t age or Choteauneuf-du
Pape, great Burgun di es from
t he Cote de Nuits or Cote de
Beaune, or an old I tal i an Bo
ra/a or Gattinara.
On a more modest scal e,
l esser growt hs of t he above
named reg i ons make a very
fne accompan i ment to t he
s poi l s of t he chos e. There ar e
many fne dr y red Burg un di es
outs i de t he ar i stocrati c vi ne
yards and t hei r equ i val ents i n
t he Cotes du Rh on e. Th ey i n
c l u de Cal i for ni a var i etol s an d
s ome gener i cs , an d f or t hose
who may wont a bi t l es s dry
ness, some of t he reds now pro
duced i n New York Stole. Here,
t oo, be gu i ded by t he r ul e of
t h u mb that t he st ronger the
taste and favor of the di s h ,
t he bi gger must be t h e favor
and t ast e of t he wi ne i f i t i s
not t o be overpowered. A ni ce
bal ance i s al ways t he ai m.
Some game bi r d r eci pes use
whi t e wi ne i n t he preparat i on,
and i n s uc h cases a s t ur dy
whi te or Champagne i s oft en
t he best choi ce for t he wi n e t o
be served. The Ger mans us u
al l y serve t hei r fn e wh i t e wi nes ,
not al ways very dry, to very
good advant age wi th wi l d game
of al l ki nds . They have no na
t i ve r eds whi c h can compare i n
qual i ty wi t h t hei r su perb whi tes.
1 35
SALADS i n conj unct i on wi th
wi ne requ i re one maj or cau
t i on: I f vi negar i s used i n t he
dress i ng, no wi ne i s to be
served wi t h i t . Vi negar ki l l s t he
pl easant t ast e of any wi ne. That
i s why, i n wi ne- dri n ki ng cou n
t r i es , a tossed sal ad i s served
l ast i n a meal . Ameri can c ui
s i ne has, however, a great r i ch
n ess i n s al ads t hat do not hove
vi negar, and wi ne can certai nl y
be served wi t h t hese to good
advantage, s i nce on el aborate
sal ad i s often the pr i nci pal di s h
of a s u mmer l u n cheon.
Wh i tes ore usual l y a better
mat ch for these sal ads t han
r eds . Roses ore al so ver y s ui t
abl e, as wel l as Champagne or
ot her s par kl i ng wi nes, excl ud
i ng Spar kl i ng Burgu ndy. I n
some r ar e cases , s uc h as a s al ad
1 36
whose i ngr edi ent i s beef, Spar
kl i ng Burgundy or l i ght reds
may be very good choi ces.
The vari ety of t ast e and tex
t ure i n Amer i can sal ads i s so
great that t he choi ce of wi ne
t o serve wi t h t hem i s al most i n
fn i t e. I t real l y boi l s down to
the personal preference of t he
hos t or host ess wi t h regard t o
t he degr ee of drynes.s or l ock
of i t i n t he wi ne c hosen . The
fol l owi ng paragraphs contai n
s ome general gu i del i nes whi c h
may prove hel pf ul .
The dr i er whi tes ore cons i d
er ed better where t he dress i ng
i s mai n l y mayonnai s e. Dry roses
are al so qui te sui t abl e.
Where collage c heese i s a
maj or i ngredi ent , t he r ange i s
a bi t broader, and can wel l i n
c l ude s emi - dry a nd s l i ght l y
sweet whi te wi nes and roses.
Spi cy or very pungent sal ads
may be abl e to stand u p to a
red wi ne, us ual l y on t he l i ght
s i de, such as t he New Yor k reds
mode f rom the nat i ve grape.
Sal ads contai ni n g a prepon
derance of fru i ts c al l for t he
whi t es, rangi ng f rom dry t o
s emi - dry, and even i n some
cases to wh i tes and roses
whi c h ore qu i te sweet.
The fragrance of Amer i can
whi te wi nes made f r om t he no
l i ve grape i s us ual l y wel l s ui ted
to t he Ameri can sal ad reper
loi re, even though i t i s un l i kel y
! hot t he creators of t he reci pes
had wi ne i n mi nd as an ac
compan i ment . I t i s a trui s m t hat
for t he best combi nat i ons of
food <nd wi ne one s houl d l ook
frsl to t he wi nes of t he cou n
t r y where t he r eci pe or i gi nates.
DESSERTS br i ng in al l the sweet
forti fed wi nes f or consi derati on.
I n s ome cases, t he wi ne i s t he
maj or part of t he dessert, as
when Choteau d Yquem, a great
Tokay, or Trockenbeerenauslese
i s served. Al l t hat i s needed
wi t h t hese g reat wi nes are a
few good cooki es and you have
a dessert ft f or a k i ng.
I n a s l i ght l y l es s exal ted cat e
gory we can pl ace Port, Cream
Sherry, Madei ra, Mal aga, Alea
ti co d. Eiba, Malvasia, and An
gelica, t o n ame but a f ew of
t he dessert wi nes whi ch need
l i tt l e s upport t o be t he mai n
dessert . They c an , of course, be
served wi t h more el aborate pas
t r i es, crea ms, mousses an d ot her
del i ght f ul and pound-addi n g
del i caci es .
True Sauternes i s sweet. I t i s
real l y a cont r adi ct i on of t er ms
t o l abel a wi ne dry Saut ernes.
Wi t h i t s cous i n Barsac, t hi s
sweet wi ne i s a dessert wi ne
par excel l enc e.
The sweet er Ger man Rhei n
gau wi nes ar e super b dessert
wi nes . The sweet Anjou whi tes,
t he Muscat de Fronti gnan, t he
Greek Samos, and t he Tuscan
Vi n Santo ar e al s o excel l ent
des s er t wi nes .
I n Amer i can wi nes we c an
l ook t o t he sweet fort i fed wi nes
of t he por t an d s herry types,
some very good Muscatels, An
gelicas, and t he Ameri can
,uscat de Frontignan. Musca
t el and Angel i ca have been
mal i gned as cheap "wi no"
types, due to s ome i n feri or mas s
product i on ai med at expl oi t i ng
t he pi t i f ul al cohol i cs . There ar e
excel l ent Cal i f or ni a t ypes made
by t he top vi nt ners t here.
1 37
CHEESE and wi ne have such a
nat ural afn i ty for each ot her
t hat al most any cheese and
wi ne combi nat i on, wi t hi n rea
son, wi l l be t ast y and enj oy
abl e. A vari et y of cheeses usu
al l y accompani es a wi ne-tast
i ng party. A pi ece of cheese,
good hearty fresh br ead, and
a gl ass of wi ne are a favori te
s nack al l arou nd t he wi ne
dr i nki ng worl d. When mat ch
i ng wi ne to cheese i t mus t be
r emembered, for best resul t s,
that t here are strongl y favored
cheeses as wel l as med i u m and
del i cate ones . The combi nat i on
s houl d st ri ve for bal ance, each
c ompl ement i ng, and nei t her
overpower i ng t he at her.
The above hol ds t rue of
cheese di shes, and a good
gui de i n choos i ng wi ne for t hem,
i s to t h i n k of t hei r country of
ori g i n . The Swi ss Fondue i s en
hanced by t he dry wh i te Swi ss
wi nes . Good al ternate choi ces
are t he dry wh i te Cal i f or ni a
vari et al s, and l ess dry New
York wh i tes. The Al sat i an qui che
cal l s for any of t he Al sat i an
whi les, or t he ot her wi nes of
t he French and Ger man Mo
sel l e. The fne l uxembourg
wi nes, where avai l abl e, ar e an
excel l ent al ternate choi ce. The
same type of wi nes served wi t h
qu i che may al so be used wi th
any cheese soufe.
I t al i an cheese di s hes often
have tomato a mong t he l i vel y
i ngredi ent s, and thi s makes a
red wi ne t he f rs t choi ce. The
gamut r uns from t he l i ght Vol
policello Ia the maj est i c Boralo.
Sturdy reds from Spai n, Cal i for
ni a, and the Fr ench Mi di are
al so good compani ons for t hese
hearty di shes.
Russi an Cheese Bl i ntzes may
have been accompani ed by
vodka or i gi nal l y, but t he l i ght
and fragrant wh i t e wi nes of t he
Rhi ne and Mos el l e are more
su i t ed to t hei r del i cat e taste.
Sl i ghtl y sweet or s emi - dry
whi te wi nes al so make a fn e
matc h .
FRUI T, l i ke cheese, goes wel l
wi th al most any wi ne, i nc l ud
i ng a n u mber of forti fed ones,
s uch as Sherry and Port.
Ci t rus fr ui t s, l i ke or anges
and t anger i nes, ore oft en pre
ferred wi t h l i ght, s emi -sweet or
sweet whi te wi nes as wel l as
wi t h t he forti fed dessert wi nes .
No wi ne seems to be good wi t h
grapefrui t.
Appl es a n d pears are good
wi t h any wi ne t hat has been
ser ved wi t h t he meal , and wi t h
dessert or for t i fed wi nes.
Strawberri es are part i cul ar l y
s u i ted to red wi ne, but roses
and dry or sweet wh i tes are
al so very pl eas ant wi th thi s fra
gr ant fru i t .
Sl i ced fru i t, served as a
sal ad- dessert at the en d of a
meal , is del i c i ous wi t h t he ad
di t i on of al mos t a ny wi ne i f
frui t and wi ne are al l owed t o
s tan d toget her for about a hal f
hour before bei ng served. A
l i ttl e powdered sugar may be
added i f des i r ed, or i f t he f r ui t
i s a bi t more t ar t t han sweet .
Sl i ced oranges wi t h a rum
dress i ng ar e a good mat ch for
t he best of t he sweeter Sher
r i es as wel l as t he not too dry
Ports, Madei ras, and M6l agas.
Champagne and rose wi nes ,
twa of t he u ni versal common
denomi nators for j us t about any
f ood, ar e al s o good compani ons
f or many f r ui t s and fresh f r ui t
di s hes , ei t her served as dessert,
or duri ng t he day, between
meal s . These t wo wi nes are
rarel y out of pl ace and al most
never cl ash wi t h t he taste of
fru i t except wi
.
l h those of over
power i ng favor.
NUTS a nd fort i fed wi nes a re
nat ural compan i ons. Engl i s h
wri ters have r hapsodi zed at
l engt h on t he cl ass i c c ombi na
t i on of wal nuts an d fne Port.
Thei r prai s e is wel l deserved,
for t he two produce t hroug h a
s ubtl e an d c ompl ex c hemi stry of
taste a perfect c ompl ement for
each other.
Whi l e many red tabl e wi nes
are s ui tabl e, fortifed wi nes are
best s ui ted Ia servi ng wi th nut s .
Dry Sherry, a super b aperi t i f
wi ne, i s a good choi ce before
t he meal . Cream Sherry goes
wel l wi t h dessert.
Madeira r anges from very dry
to very sweet, wi t h al l gr ada
t i ons i n between. Serve t he dry
ones wi t h appeti zers, t he sweet
ones wi t h dessert.
Sicilian Molvasia and Alea
t i co d" Efba ar e sweet , dar k des
sert wi nes wel l s ui ted Ia n uts
and nutty cooki es an d dessert s.
They ar e part i c ul arl y wel l s ui ted
to t he cri sp al mond confect i ons,
a speci ally of I tal i an shops.
1 39
WI NE PUNCHES or e easy 1O
make, conveni ent O serve, and
qui te i nexpens i ve. Even Cham
pagne Punch c on be rel at i vel y
i nexpens i ve for t he fest i ve oc
cas i on . The l ower pr i ced spar
kl i ng wi nes are i ndi cated where
t hey wi l l be mi xed wi t h other
wi nes and i ngr edi ents .
There ar e many reci pes f or
al l ki nds of wi ne punches , some
dry, many s l i ght l y sweet . Every
wi ne cookbook us ual l y has a
sect i on descr i bi ng wi ne pun ches,
and wi ne st or es have bookl et s
from many wi ne compan i es gi v
i ng excel l ent reci pes whi c h can
be had for t he as ki ng.
Sangria, t he f amous Span i s h
refresher, now comes ready
mi xed i n bot t l es. Home- made
Sangr i a, from any of t he dozen s
of readi l y avai l abl e reci pes, i s
better an d consi derabl y cheap
er. The l ess expens ive Spani sh
1 40
reds, as wel l as Cal i for ni a and
New Yor k State r eds , ar e a base
for t hi s fne s ummer dr i nk .
The perf ume of t he nat i ve
Amer i can grape i n s ome of t he
New York St at e r eds adds a
pl easant taste var i at i on t o
home- made Sa ngr i a. A dash of
i nexpens i ve brandy i s s uggest ed
i n s ome reci pes. Wi ne punc hes
can be made wi t h j us t about
any ki nd of wi nes-sti l l wi nes ,
s par kl i n g wi nes , Sherr i es and
Ports, as wel l as s ome of t he
appet i zer wi nes . They are par
t i cul arl y s u i t ed for s ervi ng i n
hot weat her, at pat i o par t i es
and t he l i ke, but are ver y wel
come at al l ot her t i mes wher e
a refres hi ng bever age i s s ui t
abl e to t he occas i on.
The s i mpl est Summer dr i nk i s
Wi ne and Soda-i ce, wi ne, and
s oda i n a t al l gl as s. The wi ne
may be red, whi te, or rose.
BUFFETS a re oft en a serve-your
s el f occas i on, an d t he sel f- ser
vi ce can appl y t o t he wi nes
pr es ent ed wi t h t he f ood. To
make t he oper at i on s moot her
t he wi ne or wi nes may be
pl aced at a t abl e stan di n g
apart f r om t h e food. I t i s r at her
di fc ul t to j uggl e t he pl at e, s i l
ver, et c . , an d bal anc e a gl oss
of wi ne at t h e same t i me. The
wi n e s houl d be pi cked up o n
a second t r i p or t h e host
shoul d go ar ound to hi s guest s
and serve t hem.
Wi nes whi c h requ i re car ef ul
pouri n g shoul d not be used or
shoul d have been decan ted pre
vi ousl y. The h an dl i n g of wi ne
bot t l es on a s el f-servi ce bufet
wi l l s t i r u p any s edi ment by t he
t i me t he t hi r d guest pours hi s
own port i on. I t i s a wi se host
who wi l l s erve cl ear, u ns edi
mented wi nes or decanted ones
at s uch a n occas i on.
Many Amer i c an wi nes are
carefu l l y c l ar i fed, an d s ome are
so t horoughl y cl ari fed t hat t hey
l ose muc h of t hei r charact er i n
t he process f or t he s ake of
cl a ri t y an d br i l l i an t col or .
Whi t e wi nes shoul d be cool ed
previ ous to
1
sett i n g out at a
bufet , an d t he i ce buc ket
avoi ded i n a s el f- servi ce si t ua
t i on . I t can become r at her
mes sy, but i f t he wi nes are
served promptl y t here i s no
need of cont i nuous c h i l l i n g.
PI CNI CS a re en l i vened by
wi nes , l i ke any other occas i on.
The everyday wi nes are t he bes t
choi ce for a pi cni c meal as t hey
are l east l i kel y Ia be h urt by t he
i nevi t abl e j ost l i n g.
Wi nes t h at can be trans
port ed wi t hout har m to t hei r
cl ari t y and favor s houl d be
chos en. The r eds mus t be free
of sed i ment that woul d be s hak
en u p an d l ac k t i me to set t l e
before servi n g. Most Amer i can
gener i cs an d wh i te vari etol s or e
probabl y t he best choi ce.
A previ ous l y pr epar ed wi ne
punc h l i ke Sangr i a makes an
excel l ent pi c ni c bever age. T h e
soda wat er can be added at
t he t i me of s ervi n g, as wel l as
t he addi t i onal i ce.
The wi ne or punc h ca n be
car r i ed i n a cool er or c an be
cool ed on t he spot i n a con-
ven i ent brook
l ess enoug h
brought al ong
Un l ess t he
or st ream, u n
i c e has been
for t he pur pose.
bot t l es have a
t wi st cop c l os ure, don' t forget
to bri ng a corkscrew! We have
not been a wi ne- dr i n k i n g coun
try l ong en ough t o carry cor k
screws rout i nel y as t he Eur o
pean s do.
WINERIES AND MU SEU MS
Vacat i oners on tri ps t hrough t he Uni ted States and
abroad have found t he wi ne regi ons among t he most
hospi tabl e anywher e. Vi nt ners make a product t hat
enhances fel l ows hi p and gai ety. As a group t hey ar e
about t he most afabl e peopl e i n t he worl d, gl ad t o
s how t hei r vi neyar ds and wi neri es t o i nterested vi si tor s .
They ar e crafts men and arti sts i n t hei r chos en fel d,
and pr oud of t hei r wor k. A vi s i t t o a vi nt ner , as t he
Guide Mi chelin put s i t , "i s wel l worth the detour . "
Most wi ne r egi ons have put toget her exhi bi t s and
memor abi l i a of tool s, i mpl ements, equi pment , an d art
wor k rel at ed to wi ne. Someti mes t he col l ecti ons i n
c l ude s ome beauti ful ant i que gl assware and dr i nki ng
vessel s . Most of t fes e museums are s upported by t he
l ocal wi ne i ndustry and t her e i s no admi ssi on charge.
AMERI CAN WI NERI ES al most
wi t hout except i on wel come vi si
t ors t hroughout t he year. Many
have regul ar t our s, al l endi ng
mos t agreeabl y wi th a tast i ng
of t he wi nes. I nf ormat i on about
t he t ours i s read i l y avai l abl e
i n t he l ocal i ty. Some out - of
t he-way vi neyards may requ i re
The Greylon H. Tayl or Wi ne
Mus eum i n Ham monds port, New
Yor k.
on appoi nt ment. Cal i forn i a and
New Yor k Stale vi nt ner s have
wel comed t hous ands upon t hou
s ands of vi si tors and tour i s ts,
and are extremel y wel l organ
i zed i n provi di ng i n ter est i ngl y
i nst r uct i ve t our s an d t ast i ngs .
ABROAD the a rr angement s may
vary from cou ntry to cou ntry
but t he s ame afabi l i ty i s
t here, most vi nt ners bei ng de
l i ghted t o s how tou ri sts t hei r
i nst al l at i ons, whet her moder n
i zed or awesomel y anc i ent and
tradi t i onal . There, too, t he t our
ends wi t h a taste of t he wi ne.
There i s al most never any at
te mpt t o sel l t he vi s i t or any
wi ne, ei t her i n Amer i ca or
abroad. The vi nt ner hopes you
wi l l remember hi s wi ne when
you are shoppi ng at home.
THE
WI NE
GREYTON
MUSEUM
H. TAYLOR
housed the
ori gi nal Tayl or Wi ne Company
from 1 883 to 1 920. The exhi bi ts
r ange from 1 9t h- cent ury Cham
pagne maki ng and Proh i bi t i on
era i tems t o presses and
"ant i que" equi pment . There
is al s o an extensi ve wi ne and
vi t i cul t ure l i br ary and a uni que
"Grape li bra ry" of over 200
l i vi ng i ndi vi du al g rape vari eti es
from al l over t he worl d. Thi s
mus eum i s j u s t nort h of Ham
mondspor t, N. Y. , i n t he mi ddl e
of vi neyar ds over l ooki ng Keuka
lake. I t i s open from May 1 t o
October 3 1 .
Ni neteent h- cent ury vat and hand
wi ne pump at t he Fi nger
Lakes Wi ne Mus eum are s t i l l
oper at i ve.
EUROPE abounds i n mus eums
of every s or t , an d t he wi ne c en
t er s al l have s ome col l ect i ons
of art i facts rel ated to t he wi nes
made i n t he regi on.
BEAUNE, t he capi t al of Bur
gundi an wi ne, has, i n addi t i on
to t he fa mous Hos pi ces de
Beaune, a f n e Burgu ndi an wi ne
museu m s howi ng t radi t i onal
equi pment an d met hods of vi t i
cul t ur e typi cal of t hi s great
wi ne regi on.
SI ENA, one of t he l ovel y ci ti es
of I tal y' s Tuscan reg i on, has a
u n i que "wi ne l i brary_ t he
Enoteca l tal ica Permanente,
where t he f nest wi nes of I t al g
are di s pl ayed on s hel ves di
vi ded i nto t he vari ous wi n e
regi ons of t he count rgo
Al l t he wi nes may be t ast ed,
i n several t ast i ng rooms or i n
c har mi ng t errace gardens
shaded by gr ape arbors. There
i s al so a restaurant at tached
t o the fnoteca where gastro
nomi c s peci al t i es may be s am
pl ed al ong wi t h t he wi nes .
SPAI N' S Vi l l afranca, t he capi
t al of t he Panades wi ne regi on,
has a Wi ne Museu m l ocated
i n t he anc i ent pal ace of the
ki ngs of Aragon. The i mpres
s i ve structure, bui l t i n 1 285,
houses exhi bi t s portrayi n g the
h i story of Spani s h vi t i cul t ureo
I n t he cent er of t he Sherry
regi on, in Jerez de I a Frontera,
i s t he recent l y restored Pal ace
of Wi ne, the h eadquarters of
t he Sherry producers. A char m
i ng, tradi t i onal Spani s h sett i ng
hous es a vari ety of ex h i bi t s
rel ated to t he maki ng and t he
en j oyment of Sherry. The t our
i s t can obtai n t here oi l t he i n
for mat i on he needs to vi si t t he
nei ghbori ng bodegas where t he
f amous wi ne i s madeo
1 43
THE WI NE MUSEUM OF SAN
FRANCI SCO i s t he most recent
addi t i on to wi ne memor i al s . The
r i ch and f asci nat i ng di s pl ays
of thi s s pl endi d i nst i t ut i on j us
t i fy t he ph rase fol l owi ng i t s
nome: "I n Cel ebrat i on of Wi ne
and Li f e." The museu m i s spon
sored by The Chr i s t i an Brot h
ers, who st art ed col l ect i ng rare
books, s cul pt ure, gl as sware
pri nts, and other art i fact s on t he
s ubj ect of wi ne i n t he l ate
1 930' s.
The col l ect i ng started modest
l y enough but soon began to
as s ume s uc h proport i ons t hat a
mus eum was deci ded upon.
Whi l e t he col l ect i on was s t i l l
growi n g and bei ng ex h i bi t ed
at maj or Ameri can and Ca
nadi an art mus eums , the bui l d
i ng began to go up at t he cor
ner of Beac h an d Hyde Streets
on San Franc i sco' s pi ct uresque
h i st ori c wat erfront . A Cere
moni al Court provi des a sett i ng
f or wi ne- rel at ed act i vi t i es.
A Young Bacchant, bronze by
Jean Bapt i ste Corpeoux.
1 44
Noted ar t i sts represent ed i n
t he col l ect i on of wi ne memor
abi l i a i nc l ude Al l sdorfer, de
Val des, Bol dung, Brebi ette,
Renoi r, Chogol l , Moi l l ol , Pi
casso an d Rououl l . The col l ec
ti on i s probabl y the s i ngl e most
i mportant an d i n cl us i ve assem
bl age i n t he U. S. of art i st i c
expres s i ons of grope vi ntage
an d wi ne maki ng.
St . Genevieve of Paris as Pa
troness of the Wi ne Growers,
carved l i ndenwood, pol ychromed
ori gi n al l y. ( Frenc h, about 1 460)
Among the count r i es repre
sent ed by the ar t i st i c pi eces on
di s pl ay i n t he per manent col
l ect i on ore Aust r i a, Engl and,
France, Ger many, I ta l y, Spai n,
an d t he Un i t ed Stoles. The
s paci ous exhi bi t hal l s cover
more than fi ve t housan d square
feet of fl oor space, excl udi n g
t he Ceremoni al Court, where
addi t i onal exhi bi t s may be d i s
pl ayed.
The fa mous Fran z Si chel
gl oss col l ect i on has been added
to t he mus eum' s hoard of rare
t reas ures. I n addi t i on to the
beaut i f ul gl os s pi eces, i t i n
c l udes anci ent an d u n us ual
dri n k i n g vessel s an d cups , s ome
dol i ng bock to t he Roman Em
pi r e of 1 B. C. The col l ect i on
al so i nc l udes exqu i s i t el y crafted
crystal from l ater peri ods.
Bacchus as a Boy, parcel - gi l t
an d pali naled br onze statuette
on oval base. ( Frenc h, 1 8t h
cent ury)
Wi ne museu ms are often l o
cated i n or near t he center of
a wi ne regi on an d af ford t he
vi s i tor an excel l ent opport un i ty
lO compare the ol d and the new
i n equi pment , methods, and
ot her art i fact s of t he regi on' s
wi ne maki ng.
Even t he mos t tradi t i onal l y
or i ent ed wi ne mak i n g regi ons
have seen dr amat i c changes i n
bot h equi pment an d tec h n i ques.
The exh i bi t s, i n some pl aces
goi ng back as muc h as a t hou
s and years, refl ect cent ur i es of
unc hangi ng methods and pi c
t uresque but pr i mi ti ve equi p
ment and tool s whi c h di d l i t t l e
to l i ghten t he vi gnerons' t as ks .
The spectac ul ar changes have
come to t he art and s ci ence of
wi ne maki ng q u i te recent l y.
They per haps l ack the quai n t
est het i c attract i veness of t h e
an c i en t art i fact s, but t hey ore
br i ngi ng great benef i t s to t he
cons u mer.
For sheer beaut y, t he exhi bi t s
rel ated to wi ne en j oyment ore
u n mat ched. Anci ent ci vi l i zat i ons
and mor e recent el ega nt ages
produced dr i n k i n g vessel s whose
beaut y speaks el oquent l y of
t hei r at t i t ude t oward t he bever
age t hey were des i gned to
hol d. The magn i fi cent gl assware
of i n spi red des i gn was obvi
ousl y i nten ded for a s u per bl y
del i ght f ul beverage more ambro
s i al t han water.
Five Children as Vi ntagers,
Mei ssen porcel a i n , about 1 790.
1 45
M I S C E L L A N Y
THE AMOUNT OF WI NE pro
duced by t he l eadi ng wi ne
cou nt ri es vari es from year to
year. Some countri es are i n
creas i ng t he amount of wi ne
produced year by year ; ot hers,
s how decreas i ng out put . The
t abl e bel ow s hows a composi te
overage of several years' pro
duct i on.
PROPORTI ONATE WI NE PRODUCTI ON
AL GE RI A < DECREASI NG SI GNI FI CANTLY!
W. GERMANY !SLI GHTLY DECREASI NG!
THE SHAPE OF A WI NE BOT
TLE is us ual l y on i ndi cati on of
the type of wi ne i t contai ns .
Eac h was devel oped i n t he
regi on of ori gi n, but t he most
popul ar s hapes, t he sharp-
s houl dered . Cl aret bott l e, t he
s l opi ng Burgundi an, et c. , were
adopted by ot her wi ne regi ons.
Note t hat Ger man wi nes are
di ferent i at ed by t he col or of
t he gl oss.
THE QUANTI TY hel d in wi ne
bottl es i s becomi n g more r i gi dl y
stan dard i zed. The t abl e bel ow
s hows t he nor mal n u mber of
servi ngs t he standard bott l es
1 -2
3-4
4-5
6-8
8- 1 0
1 6
KEEPI NG
wi n es i n you r c el l ar i s enj oy
abl e as wel l as us ef ul . Any
smal l notebook or set of fl e
cards wi l l do. The i l l ust rat i on
s hows a s uggest ed for m: a
l oosel eaf f ol der, l arge enough
to at t ach a l abel at t he top,
wi t h room for comments bel ow.
Suggested not at i ons : date pur
chas ed; store; pr i ce; quant i ty;
date tasted; eval uat i on of
col or, odor, and taste. Be as
speci fc an d compl ete as you
wi s h, i n c l udi n g t he f ood served.
A cel l ar book such as t he one
descr i bed i s u sef ul for gui di ng
hol d. Note t hat t he s ervi ngs for
a wi ne last i n g vary, dependi ng
on whet her a 1 -ounce s ervi ng
i s deemed s ufc i ent or a more
generous 2 ounces.
1 -2 2-3
3-4 4-6 6- 1 0
4-5 6-8 8- 1 5
8 1 0- 1 2 1 2-20
8- 1 0 1 0- 1 4 1 6-30
1 6 25-50
20-30 30-60
32 50
40-60 60- 1 00
your shoppi n g expedi t i ons , rec
e
ogn i t i on of l abel s, gl oat i ng
over good f nds , an d avoi di ng
bad ones.
1 47
E very occupat i on creates i ts own vocabul ary to ex
press i ts pecul i ar i nterests, procedures, and concer ns .
Vi nt ners an d t hose i nterested i n wi ne, professi onal s
and l aymen, have created a l anguage of wi ne. Some
of i t i s cl ear , l ogi cal , and reasonabl e; s ome of i t
borders on j argon; and some i s out- and-out j ar gon .
The l atter, uni ntel l i gi bl e to most peopl e, s eems to
serve on l y to boost t he ego of t he user , confuse t he
l i sten er, and possi bl y detract fr om hi s enj oyment of
t he wi ne under di scussi on . Thi s characteri sti c for m
of wi ne s nobbery i s bei ng conti nual l y exposed and i s,
hopeful l y, on t he way to t he obl i vi on i t r i chl y deserves .
Descr i bi ng taste, odor , and ot her sensory percep
t i ons associ ated wi t h wi ne, or food, i s a di fcul t process
at best. Wi thout poi nts of reference or fami l i ar com
par i sons, there i s need for a word or words wi th
speci fc meani ng as appl i ed to sensory percepti ons .
I magi ne descri bi ng t he taste of an appl e t o an E s ki mo.
1 48
On t he pages fol l owi ng you wi l l fnd a short gl ossary
of t er ms often used in descri bi ng and di scussi ng wi n e.
Some ar e forei gn words for whi ch there ar e no equi va
l ent words i n Engl i s h, and some ar e Engl i sh wor ds,
such as body, balance, and dry, whi ch have a speci al
meani ng when appl i ed t o t he subj ect or wi ne.
The gl ossary i s by no means compl ete s i nce t hi s
l i ttl e book has no pretenti ons of bei ng an encycl o
pedi a but i s rather a pri mer on wi nes .
A n umber of r eader s wi l l vi si t vi n eyar ds i n t hei r
travel s, and i t may be wi s e t o cauti on t hem agai nst t he
use of at l east two wor ds whi ch ar e anat hema to
most Amer i can vi ntner s . Do not cal l Amer i can or
Canadi an wi nes " domesti c" or refer t o t hei r wi ne
maki ng pr ocess as "manufacturi n g. " The derogatory
i mpl i cati on s i n each ar e obvi ous . You wi l l not endear
yoursel f t o you r hosts or be cons i dered an appreci ati ve
guest i f you use t hese taboo words .
G L OS S AR Y
Acidi ty The agreeabl e s har p taste caused by nat ur al fr ui t aci ds .
I n moderate a mount i t i s a favora bl e characteri st i c, and i s not
t o be conf us ed wi t h s our nes s , dryness, or astr i ngency.
Aroma The fr agr ance of fresh frui t di rect l y rel ated to the variety
of grape u sed to make the wi ne.
Astri ngency A nor mal characteri sti c of s ome young wi nes , us ual l y
caus ed by on exces s of tan ni n , l ess eni ng wi t h age. I t has a
pucker i ng efect on t he mout h.
Auslese German term for wi ne made fr om especi al l y wel l - ri pened
and perfect bunc hes, i nc l udi ng those afected wi t h fde/ faule, or
' ' nobl e rot . "
Bal ance A term of hi gh pr ai s e denoti ng a wi ne whose s ugar
content, ac i di ty, and the many odor and taste el ements ore
present i n such proporti ons as to produce a har mon i ous and
pl easant sensati on.
Beerenauslese German name f or t he sweet, expensi ve wi ne made
from i n di vi dual l y pi cked berri es afected wi th Edelfaul e.
Body The tast e sensati on of subst ance i n a wi ne, not neces sar i l y
rel ated to al cohol i c content. Opposi t e of t hi n.
Bouquet French wor d for t he compl ex of odors gi ven of by a
mat ure wi ne when i t is opened.
Brut French term desi gnati ng dri est ( l east sweet ) grade of Cham
pagne or s par kl i ng wi ne of a parti cul ar vi nt ner .
Cabi net or Kabi nett German wi ne desi gnat i on of a s uperi or
grade or spec i al reserve.
Chateau A wi ne estate, parti cul ar l y i n Bordeaux regi on .
Cl os A wal l ed, or once- wal l ed vi neyard, mai n l y i n Bur gundy.
Cru Us ual l y denotes hi gh qual i ty vi neyard.
Dessert Wines Sweet or parti al l y sweet sti l l wi nes cont ai ni ng
about 1 7 t o 20% a l cohol by vol u me.
Di nner Wi nes Sti l l wi nes wi th a maxi mum of 1 4 % a l cohol by
vol ume. Most, but not al l , di nner wi nes are dr y.
Domai ne A wi ne estate.
Dry Thi s much- abused word means nothi ng more t han l acki ng
i n sweetness. The degree of dryness i s determi ned by t he pro
porti on of total gr ape s ugar converted to a l cohol .
Edel faul e Ger man for "nobl e rot," cau sed by a mol d, Botrytis
ci nera, formi ng on overri pe wh i te grapes.
Estate-Bottl ed These words i ndi cate that the wi ne was produced
and bottl ed on the property where the gr apes were grown.
E
x
tra Dry A contradi ctory term used on Champagne l abel s
meani ng somewhat sweet. The degree of sweetness vari es.
Fiasco The I tal i an name for fask-the straw-covered, round
bottomed cont ai ner popul ar l y associ ated wi th Chi anti .
1 50
Fi ne Champagne Not a s par kl i ng wi ne but a br andy from the
areas of Grande Cha mpag ne and Pet i te Champagne, near t he
t own of Cog nac.
Fi ni ng A t r adi t ional process of cl ari fcati on by t he addi t i on of
certa i n su bs t ances to the wi ne i n t he bar rel . The fn i n g medi um
set t l es t o t he bottom carryi ng wi t h i t t h e fne suspended part i cl es .
Fl or The vari ety of yeas t gi vi ng the c haracter pecul i ar to d ry
s her r i es . It occurs natu ral l y i n Spai n; in other count r i es t he fer
mented wi n e i s i nocu l at ed wi th i t.
Flowery A term denot i ng the fragr ance of bl os s oms i n a wi ne' s
bouquet or ar oma.
Forti fed Wi ne Wi ne to whi ch a l cohol has been added, us ual l y
i n t he for m of brandy, s uc h as Sherry, Port, a n d Mus cat el .
Foxi ness The cont rover s i al pronounced aroma characteri sti c of
many nat i ve Amer i can grapes . Some l i ke i t , s ome don ' t .
Frappe The not at i on Servi r frappe is somet i mes fou nd on Fren c h
whi te wi ne l abel i ng; i t mean s-Serve i ced or chi l l ed.
Frui ty Ter m appl i ed t o a fne young wi ne whi ch has the aroma
and favor of f r es h f r ui t .
Ful l Pl eas i ngl y st r ong i n favor, bouquet, or taste.
Generi c Appel l at i on of wi ne type havi ng certai n c haract eri sti cs
not rel ated to i t s act ual or i gi n. U. S. wi nes l abel ed Chabl i s,
Por t , R h i n e Wi ne are usi ng t he gener i c appel l at i on. See Vari etal .
Grand Vi n French far "Great Wi ne. " Where i t appear s unsup
port ed by a t r ul y great name, i t i s usual l y as meani ngl es s as
Vi n Fi n.
Gr een Ter m appl i ed to wi ne of excessi ve aci di ty.
Hard Wi net ast er ' s t er m for a wi ne wi th excessi ve t an ni n. Not
necessar i l y a faul t i n a you ng wi ne, where i t may i nd i cate a
l ong mat u ri t y.
Haul Frenc h word meani ng hi gh, someti mes upper, or top, al l
i n a geograph i c s ense, and not as an i mpl i cat i on of s uperi or
qual i t y. Appl i ed to Saut erne i n t he U.S. i t i n di cat es sweet ness .
Heavy Excessi ve al cohol cont ent wi thout a corres pondi ng bal
ance of favor.
Kel l erabful l ung Not at i on on Ger man wi ne l abel s mean i n g "cel l ar
bot tl i ng, " t he equi val ent of t he Frenc h mi s en boutei //es ou Cha
teou, or est at e- bot t l ed. Somet i mes Ke/ / erabzug i s us ed for t he
s ame purpose.
Labrusca The pr i ni ci pal speci es of the nati ve Ameri can g rape,
Vitis labrusca, typi cal exampl es af whi c h are t he Concord, Ca
tawba, an d l ves .
Lees The sedi ment deposi t ed i n cooperage before bottl i n g. The
l ees are l ef t beh i n d by rac k i ng .
Li ght A compl i ment ar y term appl i ed t o pl eas ant refres hi ng wi nes;
t he opposi t e of f u l l - bodi ed.
1 5 1
Must The gr ape j ui ce before it is ferment ed.
Musty Unpl eas ant "mousy" odor and favor, s i mi l ar t o mol dy,
us ual l y due to u ncl ean cel l ar .
Nature Fr ench t er m equi val ent to Brut or Naturwein i n German,
mean i n g no sweetener has been added.
Nose Profes s i onal wi nefaster t er m descr i bi ng qual i ty of bouquet.
Ori gi nal Abful l ung Thi s preci se not at i on on a German l abel i n
di cat es t hat t he wi ne was grown, made, and bot t l ed at t he vi ne
yard by t he owners.
Oxi dati on The chemi cal process of absorpt i on of oxygen from
t he ai r, and t he correspondi ng changes for good or bad.
Pourri ture Noble French for "nobl e rot, " or Edelfaul e.
Press A machi ne whi ch, by appl yi ng di rect press ure, forces the
j u i ce f r om t he gr apes . There are many t ypes of presses, rangi ng
from t he anc i ent hand- operated wooden press to sophi st i cat ed
hydrau l i c mac hi nes made of stai nl ess st eel .
Racki ng The process whereby cl ear wi ne i s drawn of i t s l ees
and s edi ment, and t ransferred from one st orage contai ner to
an ot her .
Ri ddl i ng I n Champagne- maki ng, t he process of worki n g t he
sed i ment i n to t he neck of t he bot t l e d ur i ng t he second f er ment a
t i on. Tradi t i onal l y a hand operat i on, i t i s now bei ng done me
c han i cal l y i n many wi neri es, par t i cul arl y i n t he Un i t ed States.
Rotundi fol i a A secondar y speci es of nat i ve Ameri can g rapes hav
i n g a muscadi n e favor. A t ypi cal exampl e of Vilis rotundifolia
i s the Scu ppern u n g of t he Carol i nas.
Sec Frenc h word f or dry. Secco, i n I t al i an, i s used s i mi l arl y.
Sedi ment The sol i d mat t er t hrown by wi ne du ri ng ferment at i on
an d agi ng. I t i s mor e pronou nced and abundant i n r ed wi nes
t han i n whi tes . I n t he agi ng process i t somet i mes f or ms a crust
on t he wa l l of t he bot t l e. Wi nes wi t h heavy sed i ment at i on must
be decanted before servi ng.
Sekt Generi c t ype name of Ger man s par kl i ng wi nes.
Soft Term descri bi ng t he pl eas ant smoot hness of wi nes of l ow
as tri ngency. Not r el at ed to sweetness.
Sour A di s agreeabl e t aste sensati on, aci d and vi negar y, i ndi
c at i ng a s poi l ed, undr i nkabl e wi ne. Not to be conf us ed wi t h
t art nes s , ast r i ngency, or dr ynes s .
Spat lese On a Ger man wi ne l abel t hi s war d i ndi cat es a natu ral
( u n sweetened) wi ne, made f r om r i per grapes pi c ked af t er t he
nor mal vi nt age. The wi ne i s us ual l y f ul l er - bodi ed, and O bi t
sweeter t han t he ot her wi nes of t he s ame vi neyard made wi t h
t he grapes pi c ked ear l i er. l i teral l y means " l ate pi cki ng. "
Sti l l Wi ne A non-efervescent wi ne i n whi ch t he car bon di oxi de
gas , formed dur i ng f er ment at i on, has al l escaped. Th e oppos i te
of spar k l i ng wi ne.
1 52
Tart The s harp, a st r i ngent t aste of frui t aci d, l i ke the t aste of a
Mc i ntosh appl e. When present in a moderate degree, tartness
l ends o pl eas ant fres h ness to a wi ne.
Tawny The browni s h red c ol or acqui red by same r ed wi nes i n
agi ng. The charact eri st i c col or of Tawny Port.
Varietal The wine name t aken from the gr ape vari ety used to
ma ke it. The f ol l owi ng are some of the vari et al names : Pi nal
Nai r, Del aware, Cabernel Sauvi gnan, Pi nal Ch ardon nay, Ri es l i ng,
et c See Generi c.
Vi gneron I n Fr ance t hi s name us ual l y mean s a s ki l l ed vi neyard
worker, but t he t erm has been ext ended t o i nc l ude vi neyardi sts,
wi ne growers and wi ne makers.
Vi n de Carafe French term far goad, pl ai n wi n e, us ual l y sol d i n
bu l k t o restau rant s an d s erved i n a carafe, or pl ai n decanter.
The equ i val ent i n t he U. S. of t he i nexpens i ve j ug wi nes .
Vi n Fi n Thi s much abused French t er m, wi t h i ts i mpl i cati on of
qual i t y, i s t oo oft en used i ndi scri mi nat el y to have muc h wei ght
u n l ess backed by mor e si gn i fcant data on t he l abel .
Vi ni fera The most i mportant of the 32 s peci es of vi nes maki ng
u p t he genus Vilis i n t he botani cal cl assi fcat i on. I n t he genus ,
s ome 20 are nat i ve to Amer i ca, and 1 1 nat i ve t o Asi a. Vilis
vi ni fera, wi th the except i on of some hybr i ds, i s the speci e of
grape from whi c h al l the wi nes of Europe, Africa, South Amer
i ca, and Cal i for ni a are made. It is bei ng successf u l l y i n troduced
i n at her wi ne regi ons s uch as New York State.
Vi ni fcati on Thi s broad term covers t he whol e process of t ur ni ng
g rapes i nto wi ne, except for t he vi neyard operat i ons. I t i nc l udes
fermentat i on, cl ar i fcat i on, and agi ng.
Vi n Ordi nai re What t he French, wi t hout derogati on, cal l thei r
ever yday, s i mpl e, ord i nary wi nes. They ar e usual l y sol d u n
l abel ed, ei t h er i n bu l k or i n bott l es.
Vi ntage The harvesti ng, crushi ng, and fermentat i on of grapes
i nto wi ne. Thi s t erm i s al so appl i ed t o t he cr op of grapes or
t he wi ne of one season .
Vi ntage Wi ne A wi n e l abel ed wi th the ye ar i n whi ch al l the
g rapes from wh i c h i t was made were harvested and mode i nto
wi ne. When s upport ed by ot her i nformat i on, i t us ual l y i mpl i es O
bet t er qual i t y t han i t s non- vi nt age count erpart.
Vi ntner Thi s broad term, once appl i ed onl y to whol esal e wi ne
mer chant s , now i ncl udes wi ne g rowers, wi ne makers, wi ne
bl en der s, et c.
Vi ti cul ture The c u l t i vat i on of t he vi ne, al s o t he sci ence of gr ape
product i on.
Woody Ter m descr i bi ng the characteri sti c odor of wi ne aged i n
wooden cooperage for an ext ended per i od. The odor i s l i ke t hat
of wet wood.
1 53
S U G GE S T E D R E A D I N G
Here i s a l i st of books to provi de t h e reader wi t h furt her gu i dance
i n wi ne en j oyment . Al l are f ul l of i nterest i ng wi ne l or e. Those
marked wi th an aster i s k ( * ) are avai l abl e i n paperback edi t i ons .
Adams, lean D. , The Commonsense Book of Wi ne*, Davi d McKay
Co. , I nc. , New York, N. Y. , 1 960
Ameri ne, M. A. and Si ngl eton, V. l. , Wi ne, An I ntroducti on for
Ameri cans*, Univ. of Calif. Press, Berkeley, Calif. , 1 965
Bespal of, Al exi s, The Si gnet Book of Wi ne*, New American Li brary,
nC. , New York, N. Y. , 1 971
Chur c hi l l , Cr ei ghton, The Worl d of Wi nes*, Macmi l l an Co. , New
York, N. Y. , 1 967
Dorozyns ki , Al exander , an d Bel l , Bi bi ane, The Wi ne Book, Western
Publishi ng Co. , New York, N. Y. , 1 969
Grossman, Harol d J , Grossman's Gui de to Wi ne, Spi rits, and
Beers, r ev. ed. , Charles Scri bner' s Sons, New York, N. Y. , 1 964
Hannum, Hurst, and Bl umberg, Robert S., The Fine Wi nes of
Cal i forni a*, Doubleday Co. , I nc. , New York, N. Y. , 1 971
Johns on, Hugh, The Worl d Atlas of Wi ne, Si mon Schuster, I nc. ,
New York, N. Y. , 1 971
J ohns on, Hugh , Wi ne, Si mon Schuster, I nc. , New York, N. Y. , 1 967
li chi ne, Al exi s, Al exi s li chi ne's Encycl opedi a of Wi nes and Spi rits,
i d Wines of France, |CV. 5t h ed. , Alfred A. Knopf, New York,
N. Y. , 1 967 Alfred A. Knopf, New York, N. Y. , 1 969
l uci a, Sal vatore Pabl o, M. D., Wine and Your Well Bei ng*, Wi ne
Advisory Board, San Francisco, Cal i f. , 1 971
Massee, Wi l l i am E. , Massee's Wi ne Handbook, r ev. ed. , Doubleday
Co. , I nc. , New York, N. Y. , 1 971
Mel vi l l e, John, Gui de t o Cal i forni a Wi nes*, rev. by Jeferson
Morgan, Jrd ed. , Nourse Publishi ng Co. , San Carlos, Cal i f. , 1 968
Rowe, Percy, The Wines of Canada, McGraw- Hi ll Book Co. , New
York, N. Y.
Schoonma ker, fran k , Encycl opedi a of Wi ne, 4t h rev. ed. , Hasti ngs
House Publ i shers, I nc. , New York, N. Y. , 1 969
Si mon, Andre L. , Everybody's Gui de to Wi nes and Spi rits, Trans
atlantic Art I nc. , Levittown, N. Y.
Si mon, Andre L., Wi nes of the Worl d, McGraw- Hi l l Book Co. , New
York, N. Y. , 1 967
Stor m, Joh n , An I nvi tati on to Wi nes*, Si mon & Schuster I nc. , New
York, N. Y. , 1 963
Tayl or, Greyton H., and Vi ne, Ri ch ard P., Treasury of Wi ne and
Wi ne Cookery, Harper Row, New York, N. Y. , 1 963
Waugh , Al ec, Wi nes and Spi rits, Ti me- L ife Books, New York, 1 968.
1 54
AC K NOWL E D GM E NT S
Thi s l i ttl e book, s i mpl e and l i mi ted a s i t i s, coul d not
have been written wi thout the hel p and encouragement
of hundreds of ki nd and generous peopl e i n and around
t he wi ne i ndustry, bot h her e and abroad . I n di vi dual s ,
wi ne compan i es, wi ne i nsti tutes and soci eti es have shared
i n for mat i on , p r ovi ded p h oto g ra p h s a n d l a b e l s , a n d
made me wel come o n extensi ve tours of t hei r faci l i ti es.
I a m part i cul arl y grat ef ul Ia C.
\\Tony" Kah man n whos e ex pert
gu i dance, k i ndl y pat i ence, an d
t i rel es s efforts made me f ul l y
awar e of t he accompl i s h ments
a n d pot e n t i al of Ca l i f or n i a' s
wi ner i es.
The Cal i for ni a Wi ne I n st i t ut e
was t h e ma j o r co n t r i b u t or of
s uperb photographs , and an i n
e x h a u s t i b l e s our c e of h el p i n
many ways.
The wi ne i n st i t ut es and asso
c i at i on s of Al s ac e, Arge n t i n a ,
Aus t ra l i a , Bor dea u x , Ca n a da ,
Chi l e, Port uga l , Spai n , an d many
at h e r wi n e pr od u c i n g reg i on s
were most cooperat i ve i n mak i ng
val uabl e mat er i al avai l abl e.
The wi n e compan i es , s uch as
Boordy Vi neyar ds , Browne Vi nt
n e r s , T h e C h r i s t i a n B r ot h e r s ,
P l e a s a n t V a l l e y Wi n e C o . ,
S c h ra ms ber g Vi n eyar ds , Tayl or
Wi ne Co. , an d Went e Brot her s
deserve s peci al t hanks f or t hei r
h el p and encouragement .
I a m al s o grat ef ul for t he hel p
and advi ce of count l ess i n d i vi d
ual s whose h el p an d advi ce has
been i nval uabl e: J oe Conca nnon,
Wi l l i am Di eppe, Dr . Konst ant i n
Fran k, Robert M. l vi e, Loui s La
tour, Ji m lucas, George Mc Rory,
Otto Meyer, Baron Ri casol i , Dr.
V. . Si ngl et on, Wal t er Tayl or,
Brot her Ti mot hy, and Ri chard P.
Vi ne, to s i ngl e out but a few.
P H OT O C R E D I T S
Aust ral i an News I nfor mat i on
Bureau : pp. 2 1 M, 92, 1 49; Cal i
forn i a Wi ne I n st i t ut e : pp. 8, 9,
l OT, l OB, l l T, l l B, 1 3, 1 7, 1 9T,
2 2 2, 23, 2 25 37, 1 24, 1 25,
1 26 t hrou gh 1 4 1 ; Coso de Portu
gal : p. 88; Comi te l n terprofes
s i onnel du Yi n d' Ai sace: p. 1 0M;
Cons ei l l nterprofes s i onnel d u Yi n
de Bordeaux; pp. 56, 57; The
Chr i s t i an Brot hers; pp. 33, 35,
1 44, 1 45; Henr i Fl ucher e: pp. 71 ,
1 07, 1 08, 1 1 0, 1 1 7, 1 1 9, 1 20,
1 2 1 ; l nst i t uta Naci onal d e Vi t i
vi n i cul t ur e: p. 1 01 ; El mer S. Ph i l
l i ps : p. 49; Pl eas ant Va l l ey Wi ne
Co. : pp. 1 1 M, 2 1 T; The Sherry
I n st i t ut e of Spa i n : p. 2; Sl eepy
Hol l ow Restorat i ons , I n c . : p. 29;
Suntory: p. 1 05; Tayl or Wi ne Ca. :
pp. 1 8, 1 9M, 1 9B, 2 1 8, 25T, 47;
Greyton H. Tayl or Wi ne Museu m;
pp. 1 42, 1 43; Wal t er S. Tayl or:
p. 27.
1 55
Abruzzi , 78, 8 1
Agi ng wi nes, 24, 25
Di stri ct, 38
Agl i ani co del Vul tu re, 81
Al ameda-Contra Costa
Al eoti co d ' E i bo, 1 37,
1 39
di Portoferrai o, 8 1
Al exander, J ohn, 28
Al i gote, 1 2, 49
Al maden Vi neyards, 32,
38, 1 08
Al soce, 1 0, 1 3, 1 4, 66
Al to, 42
Ameri can Wi ne
Company, 51
Ameri ne, Maynard, 51
Anci ent Proverb Port, 39
Anda l us i a, 82
Angel i co, 36, 1 37
Anj ou, 1 2, 71 , 1 37
Argent i no, 1 00, 1 0 1
Arkansas, 5 1
Asti Spumonte, 8 1
Aszu Tokay, 96, 97
Aurora, 47
Bl anc, 47
Austral i a, 1 0, 1 4, 90-93
Austri a, 1 0, 98
Boca, 1 3 1
No. 1 , 1 1
No. 22A, 1 1
Noi r, 1 1 , 47
Badocsonyi Keknyei U, 97
Szurhebor6t, 97
Bogr i no, 99
Bandol , 67
Bonyu l s , 1 1
Barboresco, 1 3, 81
Barbera, 1 2, 36, 37, 38,
42, 81 ' 1 03, 1 34
Borberone, 42
Bordol i no, 81
Baren bl u t, 34
Barnes, 95
Borol o, 5, 1 3, 81 , 1 28,
1 35, 1 38
Baroque, 39
Borsoc, 54, 58, 1 37
BOtard- Mont rochet, 64
Beaucl ai r Johann i s berg
Ri es l i ng, 34
Beaufort Pi not
Chardonnay, 34
Beauj ol ai s , 1 2, 60, 62,
65, 1 22, 1 28, 1 29,
1 3 1 , 1 32
1 56
I NDEX
Beauj ol ai s-Vi l l ages, 65
Beau l i eu Vi nyeard, 32, 34
Beaumes-de-Ven i se, 69
Beau mont Pi not Nai r, 34
Beaune, 1 43
Beau rose, 34
Beau roy, 62
Bel l et, 67
Benmar l Vi neyards , 5 1
Beri nger Brothers, I nc . ,
32, 34
Bl anc de Bl oncs, 38, 50,
70
Bl anc de Noi r, 38, 40,
70
Boordybi Umchen, 5 1
Boordy Vi neyards, 51
Bordeaux, 54-59, 1 3 1 ,
1 32, 1 33, 1 35
Chateaux, 1 22
Bottl es, s hape of, 1 46
Brandy, Beri nger Bros. ,
34
Brazi l , 1 03
Br i ght ' s , 95
Brooksi de Cel l ar, 41
Estate, 41
Vi neyard Co. , 41
Brou i l l y Beau j ol ai s , 65
Bucel os, 86, 87
Buena Vi s ta Vi neyards,
34
Buffet, 1 41
Bu l l y Hi l l Vi neyards, 47
Bur gundi , 97
Bur gundy, 9, 34, 35, 36,
38, 4 1 ' 46, 47, 48,
50, 60-65, 92, 1 08,
1 28, 1 30, 1 33, 1 34,
1 35, 1 36
BV Champagne Brut , 34
Cobernet, 36, 52, 1 02,
1 03, 1 3 1 , 1 35
Franc, 1 0, 71
Ruby, 36, 40
Sauvi gnan, 1 0, 33, 34,
35, 36, 37' 38, 39'
40, 41 , 49
Coi ronne, 69
Cal abri a, 78, 81
Cal i forn i a, 1 0, 1 2, 1 4,
30-43, 51
Campani a, 78, 81
Canada, 1 2, 94-95
Canandai gua, 46
Corcavel os, 86, 87
Carth usi ans, 7
Cassi s, 67
Castl e, 95
Castle Magi c, 39
Castl ewood, 40
Catawba, 1 2, 28, 46,
47, 50
Cel l o, 42
Cel l ar Treas ure, 36
Ceremony, 42
Chabl i s, 9, 34, 35, 36,
39, 41 , 46, 50, 60,
62, 92, 1 28, 1 30,
1 34
Chol ambor Burg undy, 92
Chal onnai s , 64
Chamberli n, 9, 60, 62
Chamberti n- Ci os de
Beze, 63
Champagne, 9, 1 2, 34,
36, 38, 40, 4 1 ' 46,
47, 48, 50, 70, 1 24,
1 28, 1 33, 1 35, 1 36,
1 39
Choppel l et Wi nery, 35
Chor bono, 36
Chardonnay, 9, 1 0, 34,
35, 36, 37, 38, 39,
40, 41 ' 49, 60, 64,
70
Char l es Kr ug Wi nery,
32, 37, 1 08
Charmes- Chombert i n, 63
Chassel as, 71
Chot eau , 59
Arche, 59
Ausone, 56, 58
Batoi l l ey, 57
Beauregard, 58
Beausej ou r- Fagouet,
58
Bel ai r, 58
Bel grave, 57
Beychevel l e, 57
Bous cau I t , 59
Boyd- Cant enac, 57
Branai re-Oucr u, 57
Brane- Cantenac, 57
Col an- Segar, 57
Cal v8* Croi zet- Sages,
57
Carti er, 95
Canon, 58
Contemer l e, 57
Carbonn ieux, 59
Certan-de- May, 58
Certan- Gi r aud, 58
Chasse- Spl een, 57
ChOteau {cont ' d)
Chevc i - Bi cnc, 56, 58
Cl erc- Mi / an- Mondon,
57
Cl i mens , 59
Cos labory, 57
Cos- d' Estournel , 57
Cou h i ns , 59
d' Aqueri a, 69
De Pez, 57
Ducr u- Beaucai l l ou, 57
Duhart- Mi l on, 57
d' Yquem, 54, 56, 96,
137
I Egl i se Cl i net , 58
I ' Evang i l e, 58
F i geac, 58
f i l hct, 59
- Gci , 95
Gazi n, 58
Gi scours, 57
Grand- Puy- lacoste, 57
Gr i l l e!, 68
Haut- Bages - l i beral , 57
- Bai l l y, 59
Batai l l ey, 57
-Bri on, 56, 59
Ki rwan , 57
La Consei l l ante, 58
La Cou ronne, 57
La Croi x, 58
Lafaur i e- Peyrag uey,
59
Lafi te- Rot hsc h i l d, 56
Lafl eur - Pet rus, 58
lagrange, 58
La Mi ssi on - Hout - Br i on,
59
Langoa- Barton, 57
La Poi nte, 58
lcScl l e, 35
Lascombes, 57
Latour, 56
- Bl anche, 59
-Cornet, 57
- Haut - Br i on, 59
-Marti l l ac , 59
- Pomerol , 58
LSov i l l e- Barton , 57
Leov i l l e- I Poyfer i e, 57
lynch- Bages, 57
Mo I ar t i c- Logravi ere,
59
Margaux, 56, 57
Marq u i s-de-Terme, 57
Masson, 39
Mou l i n - Ri che, 57
Mouton- Rothsc h i l d, 56
NSn i n , 58
Ol i vi er, 59
Ormes-de-Pez, 57
ChOteau ( cont ' d)
Pal mer, 57
PaPe- CI Sment , 59
Pov i e, 58
Pedes cl oux, 57
Petrus, 56, 58
Phel cn-Seg ur, 57
Pi chon- longuev i l l e, 57
Pontet- Canet, 57
Pri eu re - L i chi ne, 57
Rabaud- Si gal os, 59
Raus an- SSg l o, 57
Smi t h- Hout - Lofi te, 59
V i eux- ChOteou -Certan,
58
Went e, 4\
Choteau neuf - du- Pope,
1 1 , 12, 14, 68, 69,
135
Chautauqua, 51
Chel oi s , 47
ChSnos Beauj ol ai s , 65
Chen i n Bl anc, 5, 12, 34,
35, 36, 37, 38, 40,
41 ' 71' 129
Cheval i er- Montrachet, 6.
Chi ant i , 14, 42, 81 , 108,
129
Chi aretto, 8 1
Chi l e, 10, 1 4 , 102
Chi r oubl es Beauj ol ai s , 65
Chr i st i an Brothers, 32,
35, 108, 1 44
Ci rO di Cal abr i a, 8 1
Cl oi rette, 1 2
Cl aret, 1 0 , 13, 4 8 , 54,
92, 128, 130
Cl ar i f i cat i on, 23
Cl os Fourtet, 58
de l c Roche, 63
de Tort, 63
de Vougeot, 63
Co/ ores, 86
Cold Duck, 46, 48, 50
Col u mbus , 28
Concannon Vi neyard, 32,
39
Concord, 28, 45, 51
Concord Red, 46
Condri eu , 68
Cons umpt i on of wi ne ( per
capi ta) , 29
Corkscrews , 1 15
Carton, 9, 60, 64
Carton- Charl emagne, 9,
64
Corvo di Castel dacci a, 81
Cote de Becune, 64, 135
COte- de- Brou i l l y
Beauj ol ai s , 65
Cote de Lechet, 62
COte de Nu i ts, 63, 135
Cote Roti e, 68
COtes-Conon- Fronsoc, 59
COtes de Bl oye, 59
COtes- de- Fronsoc,
COtes de Provence, 67
Cotes du Rhone, 122,
131' 135
Crac k l i ng Rose, 41
Cream Sherry, 48
Cresta Bl anco, 39
Cr i bar i , 42
Cri ol l os , 101
Croat i a, 99
Crosby, Everett, 50
Cucamonga Wi nery, 42
Cuvee de Gamoy, 38
L. V. L. , 42
Doc, 86
Dark Ages , 7
DebrOi H6rsl evei U , 97
Decant i ng, 1 17
deLat our, Georges, 34
Del aware, 12, 28, 47, 48
Di amond, .7
Di ni ng, 122, 123
Domai ne de Cheval i er,
59
Dut chess, 47
Edel zwi cker, 66
Egr i B i kover, 96, 97
Egypt i ans, 6
E l ba, 8 1
E l bl i n g, 77
E l vi r e, 12, 28, 48
Emeral d Ri es l i n g, 4
E mi l i a- Romogna, 81
Ent re- Deux- Men, 58
Eri cson, li ef , 28
Estl Estl Est l , 8 1
Et nc, 8 1
Ezerj o, 99
Fol er no, 8 1
Fomi g l i a, 42
Cr i bar i , 108
Fendont , 1 1
Fermentat i on, 22
Fi nger Lakes, 12, 13, 46,
1 43
Fl eur i e Beauj ol ai s , 65
F l ora, 38
fol i e Bl anche, 12, 37
Food and wi ne, 127
appeti zers, 128
beef, 131
bullet, 141
cav i ar , 128
cheese, 128, 1 38
1 57
Food Wi ne ( cont d)
chi cken , 133
dessert s, 137
duck, 133
fowl , 133
fr ui t , 139
gome, 135
goose, 135
gu i nea hen, 133
ham, 133
hamburger , 130
hotdog, 130
l amb, 131
nut s , 139
oysters and s hel l fi s h,
128
pi cn i cs, 141
pork, 132
punc h, 140
sal ads, 130, 136
s al mon, s moked, 128
seafood, 1 34
soups, 129
turkey, 133
vea l , 132
Fourchaume, 62
Fourni er Bl anc de Bl anc,
46
Fourn i er, Charl es, 46, 5 1
Froc i o, 8 1
France, 52- 71, 143
Fronk, Or. Konstont i n,
44, 46, 49, 51
Frankenwei n, 76
Froscat i , 8 1
Frei se, 8 1
Fronsac, 59
Fume Bl anc, 37
Fur mi nt, 12, 96, 97, 98
G , 42
Gal l o Wi nery, 42, 108
Gamay, 12, 35, 36, 37,
52, 60, 131
Beauj ol ai s , 12, 38, 39,
40, 41' 49
Garrett, 42
Got t i nara, 81 , 135
Gaul s, 7
Germany, 14, 72-77
Gewirtztromi ner , 13, 37,
40, 49, 66, 72, 128,
133, 1 34
Gi gondas, 69
Gol den Chossel os, 1 1
Go l d Medal Reserve, 3 6
Go l d Seal Wi ner i es, 46,
108
Gronj o, 87
Gr ape, 8
berry, 15
1 58
Grape ( con' t )
crush i ng, 20
harvest i ng, 17
i nspect i ng, 19
pi cki ng, 18
press i ng, 20
mechani cal harvester,
18
s ul fur i ng, 20
transporti ng, 19
vari eti es, 9 14
Graves, 10, 14, 54, 56,
59, 128, 129, 134
Great I n l and Val l ey, 41
Great Wester n, 46, 108
Greco di Gi race, 81
Greece, 89
Green Hungar i an, 13, 35,
38, 41 ' 128
Grenache, 11
Rose, 34, 35, 38, 40,
41
Grey Ri es l i ng, 34, 35,
36, 37, 38, 39, 41
Greystone, 42
Greyton H. Tayl or Wi ne
Mus eum, 142, 143
Gr i gnol i no, 34, 36, 42,
8 1
Gras Pl ant, 12
Gr umel l o, 8 1
GrUner Vel t l i ner , 98
Gui l d Wi ne Company,
42, 108
Gumpol ds ki rschner, 98
Gutede l , 1 1
Hammondsport, 44, 142,
143
Horoszthy, Col . Agoston,
30, 34
Hei tz Wi ne Cel l ars, 36
Henri Marchant , 46
Hermi tage, 69, 92, 134,
135
Hi gh Tor Vi neyard, 50
Hock, 92
Hospi ces de Beaune, 143
Hudson R i ver Vol l ey, 50
Hudson Vol l ey Wi ne
Company, 50
Hungary, 96-97
I n ferno, 13, 8 1
I n gl enook, 3 2 , 3 6
I rvi ng, Was hi ngton, 29
I sabel l a Rose, 47
I tal i an Swi ss Col ony, 32,
36, 42, 108
I tal y, 14, 78- 81
l ves Noi r, 47
Japan, 105
Jerez de I a Fronter a, 1 43
Johann i sberg Ri es l i ng,
10, 34, 35, 36, 37,
38, 39, 41
Nat ur SpOtl ese, 49
Jordan , 95
Jug Wi nes , 107, 108
Ju l i enas Beauj ol ai s , 65
J ura, 71 , 1 31
Kadarka, 96, 97, 98
Kall i o, 1 04
Keuka lake, 44, 46, 143
Korbel Bros. , 32, 36
Kraj i na, 99
Krug , Charl es, 32, 37,
1 08
label s, 43, 74
Lacr i ma Chr i sti , 8 1
lake Country wi nes, 48
Lambrusco, 8 1
La Romanee, 63
-Cont i , 63
La TCche, 63
lati u m, 78, 81
Le Bl anc des Bl ancs, 41
Le Chamber t i n, 63
le Cl os du Roi , 64
le Carton , 64
Le Montrachet, 64
le Ri chebour g, 63
Les Bonnes Mares, 63
les Bressandes, 64
les Chaumes, 64
Les Echezaux, 63
Les Four neaux, 62
Les Grands Echezaux, 63
Les Mei x, 64
Les Mus i gny, 63
Les Perri eres, 64
Les Renordes, 64
li ebfrau mi l ch, 76
l ivermore Red Di nner
Wi ne, 39
l l ords and El wood
Wi nery, 39
loi re, 10, 71, 128, 1 31
lombardy, 78, 8 1
London, 95
Lou i s M. Marti n i , 37, 108
Lucani a, 8 1
L uxemborg, 14, 77
Macedoni a, 99
Maconnai s , 64
Madame Pi not, 40
Madei ra, 86, 128, 137,
139
Mal aga, 1 3, 82, 1 37, 139
Mal bec, 101
Mal vas i a, 81 , 101, 137,
139
Bi anca, 34, 40
Mal vozyo, 99
Mamert i no, 81
Marsal a, 8 1 , 1 32
Morsanne, 69
Marti n Roy, 40
Maryl and, 5 1
Mavrodophne, 89
Moyocomas Vi neyards,
37
Medj ugori ca, 99
Modoc, 1 0, 54, 56, 57
Nai r, 97
Mei er' s Wi ne Cel l on,
51
Mendoci no, 42
Mercurey, 64
Merl o!, 1 3, 99
Meursau l t, 60, 134
Mexi co, 100
Mi di , 1 38
Mi rossou Vi neyards, 32,
40
Mi ssi on Bel l , 42
Mi ssour i , 51
Mondovi Vi ntage, 37,
1 08
Monks, 7, 28, 30
Montogny, 64
Montee de Tonnerre, 62
Montepul ci ono, 81
Mont La Sal l e, 35
Montrachet, 9, 60, 64
Montrose, 57
Monts de Mi l i eu, 62
Moore' s Di amond, 48
Morgan Beauj ol ai s , 65
Moscato Spumonte, 4 1
Moscotel de SetU bal , 86
Moscato Amabi l e, 37
Mosel bl i mchen, 76
Mosei - Saor- Ruwer, 72
Mosel l e, 10, 39, 75, 1 28,
129' 1 33, 1 34, 138
Mou l i n- 0- Vent
Beauj ol ai s , 65
Mountai n wi nes, 37, 38
Muscadel l e, 1 0
Muscadet, 71
Muscadine, 14
Muscat, 42, 81
Muscat d' Al sace, 66
Muscat de Fronti gnan,
34, 137
Muscatel , 48, 137
Muscat of Somas , 89, 1 37
Museums, 142- 145 -
Napa- Sol ano, 34
Naval l e Rose, 36
Nebbi ol o, 13, 81, 1 03,
129
Neni n, 58
New York, 1 0, 1 2, 44-
51' 128
Ni agara, 1 3
reg i on, 5 1
North Afri ca, 1 04
Nu i ts-Sai nt Georges, 9,
63
Ohi o, 12, 5 1
Orvi eto, 14, 81
Pai sano, 108, 1 30
Pal at i nate, 72
Pal ette, 67
Pal omi no, 11 84
Paul Masson, 32, 38,
39, 1 08
Pau i l l ac, 57
Pedro Xi menez, 1 3, 1 0 1
Pen nsyl vani a, 5 1
Peti t Chabl i s, 62
Si rah , 38, 39, 40, 134
Syrah , 1 4
Petri Wi neri es, 42
Pfal z, 22, 75
Phyl loxera, 8, 32
Pi cni cs, 1 41
Pi cpou l , 1 2
Pi edmont, 78, 81
Pi neau de I a loi re, 12,
71 ' 1 29
Pi not, 52, 77
Bl anc, 25, 36, 38, 39,
40, 41 , 66, 1 01,
102, 1 03, 128, 134
Chardonnay, 9, 35,
36, 37, 38, 39, 40,
41 , 49, 70, 1 28,
133, 1 34
Gri s, 49, 66, 97
Noi r , 9, 34, 35, 36,
37, 38, 39, 40, 41'
49, 60, 70, 131
St . George, 35, 36
Pl easant Val l ey Red, 47
Pl i ny, 7
Pomace, 20
Pomerol , 1 0, 56, 58
Pommard, 9, 60
Port, 1 1 , 34, 35, 39, 47,
48, 86, 88, 137,
139, 140
Port ugal , 86-88-
Pou i l l y-Fume, 10, 71
- F ui sse, 9, 1 29
- Sur- l oi re, 71
Premi ers Crus, 62
Pri vate Reserve, 34
Pri vate Stock, 36
Pr oduct i on of wi ne, 146
Prokupac, 99
Provence, 67, 1 28, 1 32
Punches, 1 40
Qu i n cy, 10, 71
Rare Chardonnay, 39
Rosteau, 69
Red wi ne, 21, 1 1 4 , 1 1 5 ,
1 17
Rets i na, 89
Rhei ngau, 10, 72, 75,
129, 1 33, 134, 137
Rhei nhessen, 72, 75
Rh i ne, 46, 47, 48, 138
Rhone Val l ey, 1 1 , 1 4, 68
Ri es l i ng, 1 0, 1 3, 34, 35,
36, 37, 40, 48, 66,
72, 77, 81 ' 92, 98,
99, 1 03
Ri oj a, 1 1 , 82, 1 3 1
Rocket, 57
Rockl and Red, 50
Rose, 50
Wh i te, 50
Romanee- Conti , 9
- St . Vi vant , 63
Romano Cucamonga, 42
Ramo Wi ne Company, 42
Rose, 1 0, 1 1 , 12, 34, 35,
36, 37, 39, 41 ' 46,
47, 48, 67, 69, 89,
92, 1 08, 1 1 4, 1 28,
129, 130, 132, 1 36,
139
Rouge, 34
Rouget , 58
Rouss i l l on, 71
Royal ty, 41
Rubi on, 39
Ru by Cabernet, 36, 40
Port, 88
Rus s i a, 104
St. Amour Beauj ol ai s , 65
Deni s , 63
- E mi l i on, 10, 54, 56,
58
- Estephe, 57
-J u l ien, 57
- Peray, 69
Samos, 89, 1 37
Somuel e Sebost i oni , 38
Soncerre, 10
Sondwei ne, 98
Son Franci sco Wi ne
Museum, 1 44
1 59
Sang de Pi not, 40
Sangi ovese, 1 4, 8 1
Sangr i a, 8 4 , 1 40, 1 4 1
San Mart i n Vi neyards
Co. , 40
Santa Cl ara, Santo Cruz,
San Beni to Di stri cts,
38
Sardi ni a, 8 1
Sossel l o, 8 1
Sauterne, 1 0, 1 4, 3 4 , 35,
36, 39' 46, 47' 48,
50, 54, 56, 58, 92,
1 37
Sauvi gnon, 1 0, 99, 1 01 ,
1 02, 1 03
Bl anc, 1 4, 34, 35, 37,
38, 39, 40, 41 ' 71 '
1 0 1 , 1 03
Schrams berg Vi neyards ,
32, 38
Scupper nong, 1 4
Semi l l on, 1 0, 1 4, 35, 36,
37, 38, 39, 40, 41 '
1 0 1 , 1 02, 1 03
Seppel t Wi nery, 92
Serbi a, 99
Sereksi a, .9
Servi ng wi ne, 1 1 4- 1 1 7
Seyssel , 71
Seyvol Bl anc , 47
Sherry, 1 1 , 1 3, 34, 35,
39, 41 , 47, 48, 82,
84, 1 28, 1 29, 1 37,
1 39, 1 40
Shoppi ng for wi ne, 1 07,
1 08, 1 09
Si ci l y, 78, 81
Si ng l eton , V. L . , 51
Si r ah, 1 5
Sl oveni a, 99
Smederevo, 99
Smedervko, 99
Soave, 8 1 , 1 29, 1 34
Scl era system, 85
Sonoma- Mendoc i no
Di stri ct, 34
South Afri ca, 1 05
Southern Cal i for ni a
Reg i on, 41
Souve rai n Cel l ars, 38
Spai n , 82- 85, 1 43
Spark l i ng Burgundy, 34,
4 1 ' 46, 48, 50, 1 36
Stewart, J. lel and, 38
Stor i ng wi ne, 1 1 0- 1 1 3
Styri on Sch i l cherwei n, 98
Swi tzer l and, 1 0, 1 .
Syl voner, 1 0, 1 4, 35, 36,
1 60
37, 38, 40, 66, 72,
76, 77, 99
Syroh , 1 5, 68, 69
Szeksz6 rdi Kodarka, 97
Szeksz6rdi Voros, 97
Tanger, 41
Tastes of wi nes, 5
Tasti ng wi ne, 1 1 8- 1 2 1
Tavel , 1 1 , 1 2, 69, 1 32
Tovol a, 42
Towny Port, 36, 48, 88
Tayl or, Greyton H. Wi ne
Museu m, 1 42, 1 43
Tayl or Wi ne Company,
47, 48, 1 08
Ti po, 36
Tokay, 1 2, 48, 96, 1 37
d' Ai soce, 66
Szomorodn i , 97
Tourai ne, 1 2, 71
Trami ner, 35, 36, 37,
38, 77, 8 1 ' 98, 99
Trebbi ano, 1 4, 81
Trent i no- Al to Adi ge, 78,
81
T roc ken beerenaus l ese,
74, 96, 1 37
Trotonoy, 58
Turner, 95
Tuscany, 78, 81
Ugn i Bl anc, 1 4, 41
Umbri a, 78, 8 1
Uni ted States, 28- 51
Ur uguay, 1 03
Voi l l ons, 62
Vol depeios, 82, 1 34
Vol pantena, 8 1
Vol pol i cel l o, 8 1 , 1 3 1 ,
1 38
Vaqueyras, 69
Varozdi n, 99
Vaucoupi n, 62
Vel vet Hi l l , 39
Veneto, 78, 81
Verde, 86
Verd i cchi o, 1 34
Vergennes, 48
Vermout h, 48
Vi l l afranca, 1 43
Vi l l egeorge, 57
Vi n Bl anc Sec, 47
Vi ne Br ook, 35
Vi nho Verde, 86, 1 3 1
Vi n i co, 99
Vi n ifera Wi ne Cl l ar, 49
Vi ne Bi anco, .2
Vi no de Tavol a, 1 08
Vi ne d' Uva, .2
Yi n Rouge, 47
Yi n Son to, 1 4, 8 1 , 1 37
Vi ogn i er, 68
Vi rg i n i a Dare, 42
Vi t is labrusca, 8, 28, 32,
44, 94
vinifera, 8, 28, 30,
32, 44, 49, 52
Voi gt , Ri char d, 50
Vosgros, 62
Vosl auer Rotwei n, 98
Vasne- Romanee, 62
Vougeot , 62
Vouvr ay, 1 2, 71
Weddi ngs , 1 24, 1 25
Wei be l , I nc . , 40
Wei nerwol d- Stei nfel d, 98
Wente Bros . , 32, .1
Whi te Pi not, 36, 37, 38
Wh i te Ri es l i ng, .0
J ohanni s berg, 35
Whi te wi ne, 21
Wi dmer ' s Wi ne Cel l ars,
48
Wi ederkehr of Arkansas,
5 1
Wi ne, cons umpt i on, 29
di ni ng, 1 22 , 1 23
foods, 1 27- 1 4 1
makers, 26- 1 05
maki ng, 1 6- 25
openi ng bottl es, 1 1 5
reg i ons , 4- 5
servi ng, l l -- 1 17
s hoppi ng, 1 07- 1 09
stori ng, 1 1 0- 1 1 3
t ast i ng parti es,
1 1 8- 1 2 1
ter ms , 1 48- 1 53
weddi ngs , 1 24- 1 25
Wi neg l asses, 1 1 6, 1 1 9
Wi ne maki ng, 1 6- 25
agi ng, 24, 25
bott l i ng, 24
c l ar i f i cat i on, 23
crus hi ng, 20
fermentat i on, 22
harvest i ng g ropes,
1 7, 1 8, 1 9
pressi ng, 20
s ul f ur i ng, 20
Wi nemasters Gu i l d, 42
Wi nery, l ocat i on of, 1 9
Xompon, 82
Yugos l avi a, 99
Zi nfonde l , 1 4, 34, 35,
36, 37, 38, 39, 40,
4 1 , 42, 1 29, 1 30,
1 34
Zupo, 99
Zwi cker, 66
A B C D E
W Nc b
A GOL D E N H AND B OOK
HENRI FLUCHERE, wri ter-desi gner- i l l ustrator, a man of many
avocat i ons f i nds hi msel f devot i ng mare and mare t i me to hi s
l i fel ong i nterest i n wi nes. For the past ten years he has wri tten
arti cl es on wi nes and gastronomy for newspapers and other
publ i cati ons. He conducts many tasti ngs every year and serves
frequentl y as consul tant to retai l ers, restaurateurs, and other
groups. Mr. Fl uchoe l ectures extensi vel y on wi ne ond how to
en joy it, and i s parti cul arl y fond of address i ng groups of t he
younger generati on who are di scoveri ng wi ne. He i s an acti ve
member of t he consumer-ori ented Ameri can Wi ne Soci ety.
He was Art Di rector far McGraw- Hi l l before he establ i shed
hi s own art studi o al most twenty years ago, and has authored
a number of books. He has desi gned and i l l ustrated several
dozen tech n i cal textbooks for maj or publ i shers on bi ol ogy,
chemi stry, physi cs, and general sci ence. Mr. Fl uchere is al so
an accredi ted Heral di c Art i st and i l l umi nator.
VERA R. WEBSTER, managi ng editor of al l sci ence publ i cati ons
far Gol den Press, was a sci ence teacher for many years before
accepti ng a posi ti on as head of the sci ence department with a
maj or publ i s hi ng company. For the past decade she has been
acti ve i n the preparati on of sci ence books for t he young as
wel l as for adul ts, i ncl udi ng the publ i cati on of one of t he most
wi del y used textbook seri es. She has travel ed extensi vel y i n
t he Uni ted States as a consul tant to teachers of sci ence, i s a
l i fe member of the Nati onal Sci ence Teachers Associ ati on , and
i s dedi cated t o t he goal of i ncreasi ng publ i c understandi ng of
t hei r natural envi ronment.
GOL D E N PRESS NE W YORK
P LLLtN LLl t
WI NES
WI NES is a comprehensive primer on the wines of the
world. It explains wine maki ng, characteristics of wines
of diferent countries, and the uses of wine in cooking
and entertaini ng. The book incl udes guidance i n buying
and storing, and also provides a glossary of wine terms.