sock knitting

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Ann Budd

Toe-Up Travelers
De sig n e D by Ann Budd finished size
About (19 cm) foot circumference, 10" (25.5 cm) foot length from back of heel to tip of toe, and 8 1 2" (21.5 cm) leg length from top of cuff to base of heel. To fit U.S. womens shoe sizes 8 1 2 to 9 1 2 (European sizes 39.5 to 40.5). 7 1 2"

I began these socks with the traveling-stitch wing pattern that I found in a Japanese book of stitch patterns called Knitting Patterns Book 250. I wanted the pattern to flow along the front of the leg and instep in the same orientation

yarn
Fingering weight (#1 Super Fine). Shown here: Quince & Company Tern (75% wool, 25% silk; 181 yd [165 m]/ 50 g): #750 kelp, 2 skeins.

I wanted the pattern to flow along the front of the leg and instep in the same orientation it was shown in the pattern book.

as was shown in the pattern book. Therefore, I had to work the socks from the toe up. I added another

pattern at the sides of the leg to bring the stitch count to an appropriate number for a leg circumference. The pattern I chose involves twisted stitches to coordinate with the main stitch pattern, but I added four-stitch groups of wrapped stitches to add to the textural look. For design continuity on the front of the leg, I extended the wrapped-stitch pattern along the instep. I chose to work a short-row heel to minimize design interruption at the heel, but it would have been nice to extend the wrapped-stitch pattern along the flap of a round heel (worked from the toe up) as well. For the cuff, I maintained the wrapped-stitch pattern at the sides of the leg, but discontinued the traveling stitches in the wings pattern and worked a tiny cable pattern at the center of the motif. A stretchy sewn bind-off forms an elastic edge at the cuff.

needles
Foot and lower leg: Size U.S. 1 (2.25 mm): set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn). upper leg: size U.S. 2 (2.75 mm): set of 4 or 5 dpn. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

notions
Markers (m); cable needle (optional); tapestry needle.

gauge
18 sts and 26 rnds = 2" (5 cm) in St st on smaller needles, worked in rnds. 40 sts of Wings Instep chart measures 3" (7.5 cm) wide on smaller needles.

s o c k k n i t t i ng m a s t e r c l a s s

t echniqU e s
toe-up construction page 00 designing with traveling stitches page 00 Turkish/Eastern cast-on page 00 wedge toe page 00 short-row heel page 00 sewn bind-off page 00

Toe
With two smaller dpn held tog and using the Turkish/Eastern method (see page 00), CO 8 sts. Divide sts on 3 dpn so that there are 2 sole sts on Needle 1, 4 instep sts on Needle 2, and 2 sole sts on Needle 3; rnd begins at center of sole (between Needles 1 and 3). Inc rnd: On Needle 1, knit to last st, M1 (see Glossary), k1; on Needle 2, k1, M1, knit to last st, M1, k1; on Needle 3, k1, M1, knit to end4 sts incd. Rep the inc rnd on the next 7 rnds40 sts. Rep the inc rnd every other rnd 10 times80 sts; 20 sole sts on Needle 1, 40 instep sts on Needle 2, and 20 sole sts on Needle 3.

notes
The twisted stitches are easiest to work using needles

Foot
Working the sole sts in St st as established, work 40 instep sts (Needle 2) in patt from Wings Instep chart (see Notes for adding length) until Rnds 124 of chart have been worked 3 times, ending at the end of instep sts (Needle 2) on Rnd 24 of chart (leave sts of Needle 3 unworked)72 chart rnds completed; piece measures about 8" (20.5 cm) from tip of toe.

that have long sharp tips.

To lengthen the foot, work the desired number of

additional rounds of stockinette stitch after reaching the total number of foot stitches but before beginning the charted pattern.
To increase the foot circumference, work more toe

increases, then distribute the extra stitches evenly between the instep and sole. Work the extra instep stitches in the purl columns on each side of the main motif (between the wings and the wrapped stitches) where they will cause the least disruption. Work the extra sole stitches in stockinette stitch. When working the first half of the heel, repeat the required rows until a right-side row of paired sts, k14 has been worked, then work the second half as written. Distribute the extra stitches on the back of the leg in the purl columns flanking the wings pattern, just as for the instep (which continues along the front of the leg).

Heel
Arrange sts so that all 40 sole sts (Needle 1 and Needle 3) are on the same needle for the heel and divide the 40 instep sts on 2 needles to work later. Work the 40 sole stitches back and forth in short-rows in two halves as foll.

Stitch Guide
4-st Wrap
Insert right needle between the 4th and 5th sts on left needle, draw up a loop and place it on left needle, knit the new loop tog with the st after it, then k2, k1tbl.

t oe-U p t r aV e l e r s

F ir s t h a l F
Work 1 less st each short-row as foll: Row 1: (RS) K39, turn work1 regular st unworked at end of needle. Row 2: (WS) Bring yarn from back to front over right needle to create a backward yo, p38, leaving last st unworked1 regular st unworked at end of row; 1 regular st and 1 paired st consisting of a stitch plus a yo at beg of row. Turn work. Row 3: Bring yarn from front to back over right needle to create a normal yo, knit to paired st at end of row, turn work1 paired stitch and 1 regular st unworked at each end of row. Row 4: Bring yarn from back to front over right needle to create a backward yo, purl to paired st at end of row, turn work. Row 5: Bring yarn from front to back over right needle to create a normal yo, knit to paired st at end of row, turn work.

Row 3: Bring yarn from front to back over right needle to create a normal yo, knit to the first paired st, k1 (the knit st of the pair), correct the mount of the next 2 yos, k3tog (the 2 yos tog with the knit st of the foll pair), turn work, leaving rem yo of the pair unworked. Row 4: Bring yarn from back to front over right needle to create a backward yo, purl to the first paired st, p1 (the purl st of the pair), sssp (the 2 yos tog with the purl st of the foll pair; see Glossary), turn work, leaving rem yo of pair unworked.

secon D h a l F
Work 1 more st each short-row as foll: Row 1: (RS) Cont with the same RS row, k1 (the knit st of the paired st), correct the mount of the yo so that its leading leg is in front of the needle, k2tog (the yo tog with the knit st of the foll paired st), turn work, leaving rem yo of the pair unworked. Row 2: (WS) Bring yarn from back to front over right needle to create a backward yo, purl to the first paired st, p1 (the purl st of the pair), ssp (the yo of the pair tog with the purl st of the foll pair; see Glossary), turn work, leaving rem yo of pair unworked.

Yarn Note
A well-rounded three-ply wool/silk blend from Quince & Company is a fitting match for this ornate design. The yarns near perpendicular plies and predominant wool content give loft, bounce, and strength to the fabric while also rendering the intricate pattern of twisted and wrapped stitches with great clarity. A generous dusting of undyed silk (25%) gives a glassy halo to the stitches while helping the raised-stitch motif stand out even more from its reverse stockinette background. The silk also gives this yarn a hint more density and strength, though not as much abrasion resistance as youd get from nylon. A yarn with dyed silk would have a deeper glow, while youd get a more matte effect in 100% wool or a wool/nylon blend. For optimal stitch definition, steer toward yarns with three or more pliesor even a multiple-plied cable-style yarn. If you want to add a touch of wobble and nuance to the motif, try a springy two-ply yarn instead. Either way, youll want to stick with a solid or semisolid colorway to preserve the stitch pattern.
Clara Parkes

s o c k k n i t t i ng m a s t e r c l a s s

Gallery
t WisteD stitch s t o c k i ng s

t e r pa n De r

Introduction Mastering Good Sock Design Top-Down Socks

t op -D o W n c a s t- on s a n D bi n D - oF F s Asymmetrical Cables Cookie A De s ig n i ng W i t h c a bl e s Tri-Color Fair Isle Nancy Bush De s ig n i ng W i t h s t r a n De D c ol or W or k Almondine Anne Hanson De s ig n i ng W i t h l a c e Happy-Go-Lucky Boot Socks Veronik Avery De s ig n i ng W i t h s l i p s t i t c h e s Thigh-High Stripes Deborah Newton Rose Ribs Evelyn A. Clark Twisted Stitch Stockings Meg Swanson De s ig n i ng W i t h t r aV e l i ng s t i t c h e s Bavarian Blooms Priscilla Gibson-Roberts i n ta r s i a i n t h e ro U n D Knot Socks Nancy Bush Mock Cables and Lace Ann Budd Slip-n-Slide Chrissy Gardiner

h a l F-s t r a n De D socks

ro se r i b s

k no t s o c k s

Toe-Up Socks
t oe-U p c a s t- on s a n D bi n D - oF F s Up-Down Entrelac Kathryn Alexander De s ig n i ng W i t h e n t r e l a c Pussy Willow Stockings Cat Bordhi Stealth Argyles Eunny Jang De s ig n i ng W i t h s h a D o W k n i t t i ng Toe-Up Travelers Ann Budd Half-Stranded Socks Anna Zilboorg Terpander Melissa Morgan-Oakes t W o -at-a-t i m e c on s t rU c t ion Pseudo Slouch Socks Amy Singer

a l mon Di n e

Contributors Glossary Sources for Supplies Annotated Bibliography Index

Start from the ground up with knitwear design:

U p -D oW n e n t r e l ac

create your own socks!

so c k k ni t t ing m a s t er c l a s s showcases
methods for designing and knitting creative socks, featuring signature elements and techniques from 15 top designers. Youll learn what makes good sock design and then dive into knitting 18 spectacular, brand-new patterns featuring the widest variety of techniques. With patterns divided into two sections by top-down and toe-up construction, Sock Knitting Master Class explores such techniques as cables, twisted stitches, lace, stranded colorwork, entrelac, shadow knitting, and intarsia worked in the round. Plus, youll discover inventive ways to start and end socks, shape heels and toes, and knit the soles. Sock Knitting Master Class is an all-star assembly of the most inventive, exciting designers working in socks, including Cookie A, Kathryn Alexander, Nancy Bush, Cat Bordhi, Priscilla Gibson-Roberts, Anne Hanson, Melissa Morgan-Oakes, Meg Swanson, Anna Zilboorg, and many more. And youll also learn how each yarn contributes to the overall design from Clara Parkes.

pUssy W i l l oW s t o c k i ng s

a nn bU DD is the best-selling author of The Knitters Handy Book of Patterns and The Knitters Handy Book of Sweater Patterns. She is also the author of Getting Started Knitting Socks, Interweave Presents Knitted Gifts, Knitting Green, and Simple Style, and coauthor of Bag Style, Color Style, Lace Style, and Wrap Style. She is a book editor and the former senior editor of Interweave Knits magazine. She lives in Boulder, Colorado.

mo c k c a bl e s a n D l ac e

Paperback + DVD 8 9, 160 pages ISBN 978-1-59668-312-9 $26.95 Available July 2011