I

COMPARISON OF DIFFERENT LEVELS OF PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT & MARKER MAKING

A dissertation submitted in partial Fulfillment of the requirement for the award of Degree in

Master of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production)

Submitted By
GEETIKA VARSHNEYA MANOJ KUMAR PARAS

Under the Guidance of

MS. SHEWTA JAIN

Department of Fashion Technology National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bangalore

II

May, 2009

ABSTRACT

Product development and marker making are most crucial processes of the garment manufacturing. Even a small mistake at this point can lead to be cause of million rupees loss for the export house/manufacturer. All precautions should be taken at this point of time, to avoid further problems. In product development the most important is accuracy, quality & fit of the garment. There are different ways by which garment can be prepared or graded to different sizes. This can be done manually or by using softwares. Use of software involves high amount investment but the advantage is that it makes the work faster & accurate. Manually the process can be performed but time taken will be more although investment is less. So each level of technology has merits as well as demerits. Many companies are using CAD only for grading as they believe masters are having good experience, so they can make patterns better in terms of shape of the garment. Though there is tendency to adopt high level technology but still there is resistance either due to high investment or by operators/ masters due to fear of job loss. There is need to realize the benefits of using technology because one time investment will lead to great profits in future. There should be flexibility in technology so that as the style changes operator can easily make changes in style or measurements instead of making it again & again. Product development constitutes a major portion of the total lead time. This is because at this buyers approval is very important at each point. So merchandiser needs to send samples after every stage. This takes a

substantial amount of time. By using the advanced technology the patterns can be sent directly via computers and fit/drape can be seen by the use of e-fit. With the increasing convergence of technologies, CAD has evolved into an integrated environment that drives [I]

the entire industry. No longer serving just design or production functions within the industry, CAD is becoming an integral part of the industry. IT intervention has bring out significant profits in terms of fabric saving & time reduction. Now a days Most of the garment manufacturer are adopting software for different purposes of product development and marker making. In the future also intervention of IT in different process of garment manufacturing will increase. Keywords: CAD, Product Development, Marker Making, Automation, Garment industry.

[II]

CERTIFICATION
This is to certify that this Project Report titled Comparison of different levels of product development & Marker making is based on our, Geetika Varshneya and Manoj Kumar Paras original research work, conducted under the guidance of Ms. Shweta Jain, Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore towards partial fulfillment of the requirement for award of the Masters Degree in Fashion Technology(Apparel Production), of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bangalore. No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever borrowed has been duly acknowledged.

Date: Geetika Varshneya Manoj Kumar Paras

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
For the successful completion of the research project, we would like to thank Ms. Shweta Jain (Assistant professor, Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore) our project mentor guide, for her constant support, encouragement and guidance throughout the project. We would like to thank National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bangalore to provide a great platform and opportunity in Garment industry to accomplish this project successfully.

We also take the opportunity to thank Dr. A.K.Khare (Chairperson, Department of Fashion Technology), Ms. Shipra Sharma (CC, M.FTech, Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore), Ms. Jonalee Das Bajpyee (CC,B.FTech, Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore) and other faculty members for giving us support throughout this project.

We are also grateful to Mr. Ravi Kapoor (Managing Director, Tukatech Inc., Gurgaon), Mr. Ajay Malkoti (Product development Manager, Tukatech Inc., Gurgaon) and all other members of Tukatech Inc., Gurgaon for their help and support.

We would like to extend our sincere thanks to libraries of NIFT Delhi & NIFT Bangalore for providing us resources for our project.We would also like to thank our friend Mr. Pradeep Kumar(Trainer, IISASTR) Delhi for his support. Geetika Varshneya Manoj Kumar Paras [IV]

CONTENTS
ABSTRACT..............................................................................................................................I Certification............................................................................................................................III Acknowledgement..................................................................................................................IV Contents...................................................................................................................................V List Of Figures......................................................................................................................VII CHAPTER-1.............................................................................................................................1 Introduction...............................................................................................................................2 CHAPTER-2.............................................................................................................................6 Review OF Literature...............................................................................................................7 2.1 Product development in garment manufacturing............................................................7 2.2 Need for advancement in product development process................................................9 2.3 Manual product development & marker making..........................................................10 2.4 Semi automatic product development & marker making.............................................11 2.5 Automatic product development & marker making.....................................................11 2.6 High level technology in product development & marker making..............................12 2.7 Scope for advancement in product development..........................................................15 2.8 Factors influencing investment in the advanced methods of product development ....16 2.9 Hidden costs involved in advanced methods of product development.........................17 CHAPTER-3...........................................................................................................................19 Methodology...........................................................................................................................20 3.1 Research design............................................................................................................20 3.2 Research process step...................................................................................................20 3.3 Components of research design....................................................................................21 CHAPTER-4...........................................................................................................................28 Findings & analysis................................................................................................................29 4.1 Type of business ..........................................................................................................30 4.2. Level of technologies...................................................................................................31 4.3 Production.....................................................................................................................32 4.4 Product details..............................................................................................................33 4.5 Fabric details.................................................................................................................34 4.6 Marker efficiency..........................................................................................................37 4.7 Time taken ...................................................................................................................40 4.8 Virtual Prototyping (e-fit).............................................................................................45 4.9 Lacking Areas...............................................................................................................46 CHAPTER-5...........................................................................................................................47 conclusions.............................................................................................................................48 CHAPTER-6...........................................................................................................................49 Suggestions & Future Work...................................................................................................50 CHAPTER-7...........................................................................................................................51 Limitations of Research..........................................................................................................52 Tools Used..............................................................................................................................53 APPENDICES.......................................................................................................................VII Questionnaire........................................................................................................................VII List of companies surveyed.....................................................................................................X [V]

Company Profile.....................................................................................................................XI Bibliography........................................................................................................................XVI

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LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 1.1: Areas of concern for garment industry 1................................................................2 Figure 1. 2: Steps of product development8.............................................................................4 Figure 3: Type of business......................................................................................................30 Figure 4: Level of Technologies in companies.......................................................................32 Figure 5: Average Production.................................................................................................33 Figure 6: Product details.........................................................................................................34 Figure 7: Type of fabric..........................................................................................................35 Figure 8: Woven fabric type...................................................................................................35 Figure 9: Type of Knitted fabric.............................................................................................36 Figure 10: Marker efficiency for Shirt...........................................................................37 Figure 11: Marker Efficiency for Trouser..............................................................................38 Figure 12: Marker Efficiency for T-Shirt...............................................................................39 Figure 13: Time taken for Pattern Making.............................................................................40 Figure 14: Time taken for Pattern grading.............................................................................42 Figure 15: Time taken for Marker making...................................................................43 Figure 16: Time taken in Product development & marker making........................................44

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CHAPTER-1 INTRODUCTION

[1]

INTRODUCTION
One of the oldest industries which fulfill one of the basic needs of humans is the garment industry. Garment industry contributes a high percentage in the countrys total revenue. But still there are many challenges that the garment industry has to face in future. The main areas of concern are:

Figure 1.1: Areas of concern for garment industry 1

Due to high competition & decentralized manufacturing many of the garment industries are looking forward to the software solutions provided by various companies so as to streamline the processes & to overcome some of the challenges mentioned above as fast as possible. Garment industry is labour intensive, raw material intensive, capital intensive, product intensive, inventory intensive and with just one exception i.e. profit margins, which are nonintensive.2 This industry is highly dependent on the skill of the pattern master, pattern grader, cutting master, sewing operators, finishing operators etc. 1- Tukatech website: http://www.tukatech.com/ Tukatech Your Fashion Business Concerns.htm 2-ERP in apparel industry by P.Ganesan, fibre2fahion.com [2]

This industry still needs to be standardized. From 1910 garment industry started using size designation for mass production & selling. A size system represents particular measurement which will fit to most individuals in population. But the anthropometric data available now is mostly outdated, hence not well fit. This may due to large variation in the population. According to a survey 50% of women are not having well fitted cloth in the present sizing system.3 So there is requirement to find a solution for providing mass customization. The garment manufacturing can be divided into various stages such as product development, spreading, cutting, sewing, finishing & packing. It can be stated that if garment is correct in terms of fit, style, color, design & drape at the product development stage then there are less chances of error at the later stage. So product development is most crucial stage of garment industry. More over if automation is done this stage then are very less chances of error. There is a need to automize the product development process because of various reasons.
4

First is that buyers are at far of places so if a merchandiser sends sample it takes a long time to get back the sample after approval/ recommendations. More over it involves cost & time. After every variation or correction pattern master has to make the pattern again & again to see the results. Moreover now a days fashion is changing at a very fast pace so quick response is the main key factor for success. An agile automation system will allow in responding quickly to rapidly changing market conditions.5 3-Body Scanning and Modeling for custom fit garment, By B.Xu, Y.Huang & T.Chen 4- An integrated simulation platform for the validation of a novel garment manufacturing system by Dott. Ing. Marco Principi 5- An integrated simulation platform for the validation of a novel garment manufacturing system by Dott. Ing. Marco Principi page: 24

[3]

Technology adoption is mostly used by garment industrialists to have a competitive edge over their competitors by cost cutting & increasing profits.6 By softwares such as CAD, the pattern can be made easily and correction can be done as many times as possible. Smartmark can be used to get the most efficient marker in a few minutes. E-fit or virtual prototyping can be used to drape garment on model on the screen & animation helps to see fit & drape.7 The various steps of product development are:

Figure 1. 2: Steps of product development8

6- Technology Adoption of Indian garment manufacturing firms by Venu Varukolu B.Tech., Osmania University, 2003 August, 2007, pg-8 7,8- The Comparison of the Manual and CAD Systems for Pattern Making, Grading and Marker Making Processes by Ziynet Ondogan, Cetin Erdogan in Fibres & textiles in Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55) [4]

The CAD system or Smartmark (automatic marker making) are much more productive compared to the manual method. They systems will provide great advantages in responding quickly to multi- piece, multi size orders in small quantities. Moreover, these will provide substantial savings as far as fabric costs are concerned. Therefore, the objective of this research is to find out whether higher levels of product development are better than manual method of product development and marker making.

Objective: Objective is to compare different levels of product development and marker making i.e. manual, semi automatic, automatic & high level. Sub objectives: To learn about different Tukatech softwares used for product development i.e. Tuka CAD, Tuka mark, Smartmark & virtual prototyping (e-fit). To do survey of different garment industries in NCR region for comparison of different ways of product development and marker making. To compare product development time & cost. To compare marker efficiency for different levels. Hypothesis: 1. Higher levels (virtual prototyping/ automatic levels) of product development

gives better quality, higher productivity & higher time saving than manual level of product development. 2. High level gives better marker efficiency in case of solid fabric whereas

manual level gives better efficiency in case of plaids & stripes. [5]

CHAPTER-2 REVIEW OF LITERATURE

[6]

REVIEW OF LITERATURE
2.1 Product development in garment manufacturing Garment is the main product of textile & clothing sector. Previously it was considered as a basic need but now a days people want different styles in garments to match their status. Garment industry is different from other industries as it is highly affected by the change of seasons & associated with frequent changes in customer lifestyle and requirements.1 Due to seasonal nature, the product development time is very tight and strict to the seasonal fashion calendar. Textile and apparel product development is normally planned one year in advance. As a result, product planning and development rely highly on the forecasting service, feedback from the retailers, and product performance analysis.2 Short product lifecycle leads to frequent product planning & product development. Flexible manufacturing technology enables to respond quickly any variation in style.3 Todays fashion cycles mean more styles- more variation- less volume- thus resulting in need for quick response. 4

Figure 2.1: Product development Model 5

1, 2, 3, 5- New Conceptual Model for Design Development of Smart Clothing, Ariyatum B [7]

4- DP78, CAD/CAM a comparative study, GMT, NIFT, Delhi Product development in garment industry is characterized by the functional independence. There are various steps in product development in which each member plays a significant role. The product development can be broadly divide into five stages such as consumer research, design & concept development, sampling, specification development & pre production sampling.6

Figure 2.2: Product development Process7

6, 7- New Conceptual Model for Design Development of Smart Clothing, Ariyatum, B

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2.2 Need for advancement in product development process

Figure 2.3: Disciplines involved in product development 8

Product development involves interlink between various disciplines such as designers, merchandiser & pattern maker or garment technologist. These disciplines need to be involved closely for the right product development. This involves good communication between different departments. But in most of the cases designers are not in direct contact with the merchandiser or pattern maker. So merchandiser sends samples to designers or buyers for various approvals. This consumes most part of the lead time. This initiates the need of automation or advancement in product development so that lead time can be reduced. 9 So garment manufacturing comprises of many interdependent yet disparate process. Pattern making & marker making plays crucial role in fabric saving, fitting & drape of garments. There are various levels of product development based on the levels of automation that are prevailing in the garment industry. In the subsequent sections each level will be described in details. 10

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8, 9, 10- New Conceptual Model for Design Development of Smart Clothing, by Ariyatum, B The advanced methods or softwares can be used for various steps in product development. Stitch World has conducted a survey on apparel CAD systems installed in approximately 100 Clothing and Apparel companies in India. It was found that software such as CAD is utilized for grading in most of the cases.11

Utilisation Rates of Features

100 90 80

Percentage

70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Grading Marker Making Plotting Digitising Pattern Pattern Pattern Spec Develpoment Modification Revision

Features

Figure 2.4: Utilization rates of features of with the software 12

2.3 Manual product development & marker making This involves the development of pattern & the marker manually without the help of software. First of all base size pattern is prepared with the help of measurements along with the notches, allowances, drill marks etc with pencil on the sheet.

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11,12- 27- November 2004; CAD systems In the Indian textile & apparel industry; Stitch World; Volume II, Issue 9. Then the pattern is cut. Then base size pattern is graded manually to different sizes. After that all the pattern pieces are placed on the fabric directly and different arrangements of pattern pieces are done to obtain a marker of maximum efficiency. Then cutting is done manually with the help of cutting knife.13 2.4 Semi automatic product development & marker making This level involves the use of software for product development. The software which is mostly used is CAD. CAD system was invented in 1970 by CAMSCO. Lectra entered in the field of garment CAD from 1980s. After this Gerber technology purchased CAMSCO CAD14. By the end of 1993 many vendors were having automatic spreader, automatic marker making. The technique of making marker & arranging the pattern pieces efficiently in 30-45 sec was developed in this era. 15 In this level, pattern is prepared manually then digitized with digitizer and then graded with CAD. Then marker is prepared with the help of marker making software and plotter. This involves the development of pattern manually & the marker with the help of different marker making softwares i.e. Tukamark, Modaris. 16 2.5 Automatic product development & marker making In garment manufacturing process there are various tasks that are performed repetitively. So many industries are offering softwares which perform these tasks quickly & efficiently. 17

13,14, 17- Patternmaking: Past to Present, By Dr. Kim Anderson 16- DP241,CAD: A comparative study by Shilpa Sarwate,2004-06, GMT, NIFT, Delhi [11]

15- The Comparison of the Manual and CAD Systems for Pattern Making, Grading and Marker Making Processes, by Ziynet Ondogan, Cetin Erdogan Under this level of technology pattern development, grading & marker making is done completely with the help of CAD. Considering the complexity involved with different fabrics and silhouettes, a CAD system makes it easier & faster. A mistake anywhere down the line in the prototyping or cutting process becomes very difficult and often impossible to rectify. So a CAD system deskills some of the processes involved in mass manufacturing, namely the preproduction processes so that perfectly cut parts can be fed to the operators. Additionally, the fabric saved in bulk cutting while using a CAD system is enormous.18 2.6 High level technology in product development & marker making High level of automation involves the use of e-fit simulator / 3D body scanning / virtual tryon/ Smartmark (automarker). e-fit: The first applications of cloth simulation in the field of computer graphics started in 1987. This was simple simulation of rectangular cloth like flag draping. However first garment simulation was started in 1990 with consideration of many technologies. This was the first virtual simulation of garment in which fabric is sewed around a model.19 In this a pattern maker can create a virtual sample garment to verify the fit of their patterns. Moreover, by emailing a digital apparel sample, designers can visualize a garments design and fit within days of submitting technical specifications. 20 e-fit Simulator software creates a digital sample of the garment, draped on a 3D virtual fit model, using the latest in cloth simulation technology with a digital (CAD) pattern and a set of fabric values (such as stretch, weight, etc). 21 18- Fashion design CAD/CAM software overview, by Mr. Saar Machtinger 19, 20,21-tukatech website, http://www.tukatech.com/products/efit [12]

Many samples can be created in much less time than it would take to sew and deliver a real garment. Virtual fitting allows user to see the effect of alterations immediately on the screen without actually making the garments.22 Using 3D draping the digital pattern is wrapped onto the model, and an appropriate movement is applied to test the fit. Any fit issues are immediately apparent. The pattern can be adjusted, the garment is then re-draped to view in the e-fit Simulator, and the file can be forwarded to supply chain partners. 23 3 D body scanning: Concept of mass customization in mass production is one of the tools for delighting the customers. It provides a competitive strategy to many manufacturers. Meanwhile it also reduces inventory cost and overstock problems. A designed garment that fits requires lot of information about human body. An automatic body measurement system is a basic need for maximizing customer satisfaction. 3D body scanning involves the scanning of human body & recording the data automatically. It utilizes the technique of acquiring body data and provides accurate body measurements which were not possible with conventional system. From scanned data a body form/model can be constructed. This body can be treated as digital model of body for garment design. Now data can be utilized for product development. The Scanning technology and its software has provided apparel manufacturers a tool to make customized garments.24

22- tukatech website, http://www.tukatech.com/products/efit/ 23- http://www.tc2.com/newsletter/2008/080608.html 24- Body Scanning and Modeling for custom fit garment, By B.Xu, Y.Huang & T.Chen [13]

The Virtual Try-On: Garment designing and innovation will be incomplete without

customer satisfaction. In this technology customers are free to choose the garment of their preference & they can try on 3D mannequins which are according to their body measurements. With this they can move the body in different postures and feel the effect on fit & drape of the garment. This technology is composed of two components first is web server and other is client application. Web server is having two databases one is keeping all the details of the mannequins while the other is keeping details of available garments with its measurements. When clients request for the mannequins, then particular size model will be downloaded on the client systems. Then garment is designed with design tools and exported into garment database. This web client application provides body/garment sizing module & the real time garment simulation module. Body/garment sizing module changes 3D mannequins according to the clients body measurement. After this animation take care of real time simulation of garments.26

Figure 2.5: Architecture of virtual try-on application25

25, 26- From Early Virtual Garment Simulation to Interactive Fashion Design Pascal VOLINO, Frederic CORDIER, Nadia MAGNENAT-THALMANN MIRALab [14]

Smartmark (Automarker): Automarker arranges the pattern pieces automatically in few minutes to get the most efficient marker. 2.7 Scope for advancement in product development In western countries a number of initiatives have been taken on made to measure and on online shopping. Concept of e-Tailor arises by combining technology of 3D body scanning, 3D CAD & Virtual try-on. It aims to provide customized retailing service of garments and to tackle the problem of sizing systems, fitting problems, high cost & data privacy. This fast and quick response technology enables mass customization at very low price. Features offered by this technology have advantage over the others, so this technology will be widely used in future.27 Sizing Survey Home shopping

Anthropometric Database

Internet Retail outlet POS order Dat 3D Body Scanning a Base a Base Dat Production CAD Order Process ERP
Figure 2.6: The functional components of E-tailor infrastructure28

27, 28- E-Tailor, By G.A.Kartsounis, N.Magnenat-Thalmann, Hans-Christian Rodrian

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2.8 Factors influencing investment in the advanced methods of product development There are many factors which attract garment industries to adopt advanced ways of product development and marker making. The primary stimulant for investment in the advanced methods of product development is the growth. Next is the specific product type, then buyer/ retailers demand, followed by the extent computer environs and then operators skill level.

Factors Influencing Investment

Growth 9% 3% 11% 56% 21% Product Category Vendor/ Retailer Demand Related Extent Computer Environs Operator

Figure 2.7: Factors influencing investment27

The main reasons which propel garment industries to invest in software solutions for product development also include the following: More innovation and greater consistency Quicker and more flexible response Enhanced quality of service and product to the customer Reduced operating cost Increased sales revenue

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27-27 November 2004; CAD systems In the Indian textile & apparel industry; Stitch World; Volume II, Issue 9. Optimization of the time spends on design and development. Improved communication Reduced sampling costs Creation of business opportunities and provision of service. 28 2.9 Hidden costs involved in advanced methods of product development It is clear that advanced methods of product development are less time consuming, easy & comfortable. But there are hidden costs that are involved after the purchase of software. This also forms a substantial part of the total cost. The hidden costs are shown below along with the % contribution in the total costs.

Hidden Costs
Consumables 12% 5% 25% Software Upgrade Hardware Upgrade 13% 17% 14% Repair Training Troubleshooting Overheads 14%

Figure 2.8: Hidden costs29

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28- Present scenario of CAD system in apparel industry by Navtej Kaur Gill, DBM. 29- 27 November 2004; CAD systems In the Indian textile & apparel industry; Stitch World; Volume II, Issue 9

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CHAPTER-3 METHODOLOGY

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METHODOLOGY
3.1 Research design A plan outlining how information is to be gathered for an assessment or evaluation that includes identifying the data gathering methods, the instruments to be used, how the instruments will be administered, and how the information will be organized and analyzed is called research design.1 Research design is the strategy, plan, and structure of conducting a research project. A plan for collecting and utilizing data so that desired information can be obtained with sufficient precision.2

3.2 Research process step Research objective List of information needed Method of data collection Selecting a sample type Determining sample size Data collection Findings & Analysis [20]

Conclusion

3.3 Components of research design 3.3.1 List of information needed In this research we need the following information from questionnaire: Level of automation: Manual/ Semi automatic/ automatic / high level of automation, name of software & hardware, types of garments, width & type of fabric, initial investment, no. of software operators & salary of operators / masters. Marker efficiency for different kinds of fabrics for three different basic garments i.e. Shirt, Trouser & T-Shirt were collected from different industries using different methods of product development. Time taken for pattern making, grading & marker making for different types of fabric & basic garments was also collected for analysis. 3.3.2 Method of data collection

The data has been collected by doing survey. In this questions were asked from the companies using CAD and other technologies for product development. The

information/data collected from this survey has been used for the analysis. The analysis is done by using various tools like excel & SPSS. The questions in the questionnaire were of different types i.e. Check-off, Fill-in-the-blank, scale type and Open-ended fill-in items. 3.3.3 Type of data collection

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3.3.4

Descriptive research

Descriptive research, also known as statistical research, describes data and characteristics about the population or phenomenon being studied. Descriptive research answers the questions who, what, where, when and how.3 The description is used for frequencies, averages and other statistical calculations. The best approach of descriptive research is to conduct a survey investigation. It deals with everything that can be counted and studied. For example, if there is a need of additional features in the CAD system then CAD vendors should be aware of this and that changes should be incorporated in the software/hardware.4

3.3.5

Primary data collection

The objective of the project has been accomplished through Primary and Secondary sources. Data Collection through Primary Sources includes: Interviewing a person from the Software Solution Company (Tukatech). Filling the questionnaires from 34 industry experts.

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a) Interview- An interview was conducted with the Managing Director (Asia) of Tukatech Inc to know the features of CAD and other softwares for product development. It was conducted before filling up the questionnaires to form a theoretical base of the project. b) QuestionnairesTools: We have used questionnaire for data collection both objective type & open ended. Survey method has been used for primary data collection. This is a process of collecting information from people. The data has been obtained face to face through questionnaires. A questionnaire is a written or electronic survey instrument comprised of a series of questions, designed to measure a specific item or set of items. Respondent: The questionnaires have been filled by industry experts who are in direct contact with the techniques used in Pattern Making, Pattern Grading and Marker Making like Pattern Masters, Cutting Masters, CAD Operators/ CAD Managers.

Reason for choosing respondent: As the research is related to Pattern Making, Pattern Grading and Marker Making so these are the experts who are directly connected to all these procedures. Place of response: They have filled the questionnaires in the companies for they are working. Time of response: We have collected the data after studying the Literature so as to get familiar with the problems & scenario. Way of response collection: The data was collected through Questionnaire Method.

3.3.6

Secondary data collection

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The sources for collection of secondary data are: a) Books- Books which are related to CAD and product development which provide with the basic information on CAD. b) Magazines- Magazines like Stitch World and The Indian Textile Journal which have the latest articles on CAD. c) Websites- Websites of the Software Solution Companies. d) Video from Tukatech- This video includes Pattern making through CAD. Making of basic patterns of a Shirt and a pair of Trouser through CAD i.e. a Guide Tour. It also contains the features of the Software. e) Brochures from Tukatech- It have the features of the Software and all the kind of solutions provided by Tukatech Inc.5

3.4 Sampling design 3.4.1 Sampling type: Cluster sampling Cluster sampling is selecting respondents from certain areas only. It is a two-stage sampling: In the first stage we had chosen Delhi & NCR as a sample area; in the second stage a sample of respondents within those areas has been be selected. The industries are: Richa exports, Maya puri; Richa exports, Kirti Nagar; Richa exports, Gurgaon; ITC, Gurgaon; Poddar Exports, Gurgaon; Orient Craft, Gurgaon etc. The full list has been attached in annexure.6 3.4.2 Sampling unit

The companies using different ways of product development has been selected. In this few were using manual product development, some were using semi automatic product development (using CAD for few purposes), few were using automatic product development

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(using CAD & other softwares for all purposes) & some are high level of product development (using e-fit). 3.4.3 Sample size

Sample size is 34 garment manufacturing industries. 5 garment industries were for pilot run survey.

3.4.4

Survey location

Delhi & NCR .region.

3.5 Analysis of plan Data analysis is based on various stages of product development i.e. Pattern making, Grading, Marker making, fit simulator by the following parameters: Time Labor cost Investment Marker Efficiency 3.6 Techniques used One-way ANOVA/ univariate ANOVA: We have compared three or more unmatched groups so we have selected one-way ANOVA for analysis. The Analysis Of Variance (or ANOVA) is a powerful and common statistical procedure.7

3.7 Instrumentation

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Pilot study is done before the final survey. Because the questionnaire prepared in first stage may not be fully sufficient. We did pilot survey to test sufficiency of our questionnaire. At the end of pilot survey we are able to make final questionnaire.

PURPOSE OF STUDY Purpose of this study is to analyze the difference between various stages of product development i.e. Pattern making, Grading, Marker making, Fit simulator by the following parameters: Maker Efficiency Time Cost During this project levels i.e. manual, semi automatic, automatic & high level of automation in the product development can be defined by giving proper merits.

1- www.utexas.edu/academic/diia/assessment/iar/glossary.php 2-Research Methods Knowledge Base by William M.K. Trochim http://www.socialresearchmethods.net/kb/index.php 3,4- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Descriptive_research accessed on 03/03/2009 5- Present scenario of CAD system in apparel industry by Navtej Kaur Gill, DBM. 6- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sampling_ (statistics) accessed on 4/03/09. [26]

7- www.uwsp.edu/psych/stat/12/anova-1w.htm accessed on 4/3/09 Reference: Consumer preference towards kid wear brands, by Dolley Dey, 2004-06, FMS, NIFT Delhi Reference: Market study for brand XYZ in premium segment, by Neha Parwal, FMS, NIFT Delhi

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CHAPTER-4 FINDINGS & ANALYSIS

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FINDINGS & ANALYSIS

The research is aimed at analyzing the product development & marker making methods. So that appropriate product development & marker making methods can be selected for efficient & accurate garment manufacturing. To collect relevant information, we have done survey of 34 companies in NCR region. To collect information the questionnaire used was structured & non-disguised. The findings & analysis of the survey are as follows in the form of pie charts & graphs. The information collected by questionnaire is presented in the findings. The findings of the research are collected from the respondent that is giving information on following areas: Type of business Level of technologies Production Product details Fabric details Marker efficiency Time Virtual Prototyping (e-fit) Lacking Areas in Software

Initially findings are presented in the different formats. Data collected by questionnaire is presented by graphs & pie charts drawn by Microsoft-excel. Then data has been analyzed by SPSS (Statistical package for social sciences) for windows, version 17.0.

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The way by which we have collected the data is face to face interviewing the pattern masters & CAD operators. Through best of our knowledge the data which we have collected is authentic and we have presented the findings & analysis on that basis. There may be slight variation from the practical; this may be due to wrong data provided by few respondents. 4.1 Type of business Garment industry is involved in the both kinds of business i.e. export & domestic. But due to fewer margins in the domestic field, they prefer to work for export market. Out of total respondents, there are 88% units which are 100% export oriented & 12% of units are manufacturing for both domestic & exports. The companies dealing in both exports & domestic have a lower % of domestic business. This shows that maximum companies are involved in the export business of the garments. Now some of the export oriented units have started entering into domestic market due to decrease in order from the foreign buyers in the present economic scenario.

Business Type

12%

Domestic & Export Export Only

88%

Figure 3: Type of business

Export oriented companies need quick response with good quality level so they require advancement in technology to cope up with the buyers demand and compliances.

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4.2. Level of technologies There are different ways of product development in the garment industry. The basis on which we have divided the level of technologies is as follows: Manual: They are working manually for each process of product development & marker making. Semi Automatic: Those industries which are mainly using CAD for grading & marker making but doing pattern making manually. Automatic: Those industries which are mainly using CAD for pattern making, grading, marker making. High level of technology: Companies using CAD for all processes along with other addon softwares such as auto marker & virtual prototyping. Out of total respondents, there are 24% of units having manual, 46% having semi automatic, rest 30% are having automatic & higher level of technologies. Out of the total population 24% are practicing manual methods for pattern making, grading & marker making. Most of the industries are still having CAD but doing pattern making & marker making manually. This comprises 46% of the total population. This may due to the difficulty in making patterns on the CAD as most of the pattern masters are resistant to use CAD systems. Only 15% of the industries are utilizing CAD for all processes of product development (pattern making, grading) & marker making. Rest 15% is highly automated industries. They are using all features of CAD systems and various add-on features. This includes auto marker & virtual prototyping. Tukatech has various solutions such as Smartmark (auto marker) & e-fit (virtual prototyping).

[31]

Level of technologies in companies

15%

24%

Manual Semi automatic

15%

Automatic High Level

46%

Figure 4: Level of Technologies in companies

4.3 Production Depending on the production output different kinds of technologies are implemented by garment manufacturers. This is because for high production, the company needs highly sophisticated tools for accuracy & quality. Among the companies surveyed, the average production in companies having different levels is shown below. This graph shows that high level is having very high production as compared to other levels. This is because in highly automized industry time taken is very less in each of the processes. So the same amount of work is done faster as compared with manual. There is less difference in the avg. production of semi automatic & automatic industry because automatic industry can do work faster with application of CAD in pattern making and marker making.

[32]

Average production
300000 Average Production 250000 200000 150000 100000 50000 0 Manual Semi automatic Automatic High Level Technology Level 113000 162900 168517.2414 242166.6667

Figure 5: Average Production

The companies having higher production use high levels of technology to maintain their output. 4.4 Product details Among the companies surveyed, the majority of companies are manufacturing all categories of garments, 26% are making only ladies wear, 24% are manufacturing ladies, mens & kids wear, 12% are manufacturing ladies & kids wear rest 12% are making ladies & mens wear. Very few industries are making high fashion garments. It can be interpreted from the graph that all companies are manufacturing ladies wear along with either kids wear or menswear. In the graph shown below All implies ladies wear, kids wear, menswear & high fashion garments. L implies ladies wear, M implies menswear and K implies kids wear. As the complexity increases in style the companies require advanced methods to get good quality as per standards. Companies manufacturing high fashion garments are using high level technology such as virtual prototyping to check the drape & fit of the garments.

[33]

Product details All

26% 26% LMK LK LM 12% 24% 12% L

Figure 6: Product details

4.5 Fabric details Type of fabric plays an important role in product development & marker making. There is direct impact of this on selection of different CAD and other systems. For example width of fabric has direct impact on the cutting table width. Hence it has effect marker efficiency. With due consideration of this, we have collected following data. i) Out of all companies that we have surveyed 35% of companies are working on woven, 15% on knits & 50% on both. Maximum companies are working on woven fabric because most of the orders are of woven garments. Nearly 50% of the industries are working on both kinds of fabric as they have flexibility in technology. Hence while selecting any technology it should be taken in mind that it should mostly useful for woven fabrics, while its use for knits should also be taken in care.

[34]

Type of Fabric

Woven 35% Both 50%

Woven Knits Both

Knits 15%

Figure 7: Type of fabric

ii) Out of all the companies working on woven garments 39% of units are working on non denim, 35% on denim. This shows that non denim fabric is mostly used, while 26% companies are working on both types of woven fabrics. Hence one can say that compatibility of any software should be for both kind of fabrics i.e. denim and non-denim.
Woven fabric type

26% 35% Denim Non denim Both

39%

Figure 8: Woven fabric type

iii) Out of all the companies working on knitted garments 64% of units are working on tubular and 36% are working on open & tubular knitted fabric. No companies are working only on open fabric. There are companies which are working on open fabrics along with tubular fabric. This is because companies are getting this kind of knitted fabric mostly from

[35]

knitting

industry.

The

open/tubular

affects

the

marker

efficiency.

Knitted fabric

36% Tubular Open/Tublar 64%

Figure 9: Type of Knitted fabric

iv) All units are working on plain, stripe, plaid & printed woven fabrics. No industry is specifically working on a particular type of fabric. This is because they are getting orders of all kinds. But in case of trouser mostly they are working on solid fabric, very less in plaid & print. v) Similarly all units working on knitted fabric are working on all types of knitted fabric i.e. single jersey, double jersey, rib & interlock. No industry is specifically working on a particular type of fabric. vi) The average width of woven fabric is 46.09. The average width of fabric used for shirt is 42-44 while of trouser is 56-58. The average width of knitted fabric is 31.36. The average width of fabric used for T-shirt is 28-30 in tube form while 50-56 in open form. The type of fabric & width of fabric have a great affect on the marker efficiency.

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4.6 Marker efficiency The main parameters that affect the marker efficiency are: Width of fabric, type of fabric, length of table, style of garment, no. of components. As we know in total cost fabric cost has highest impact, so it becomes mandatory to have higher marker efficiency to avoid wastage of fabrics. For our analysis we have chosen three basic garments i.e. Shirt, Trouser & TShirts. We have collected data for the four way marker i.e. Placement of parts of four garments. Analysis of all three basic garments is presented below one by one. The marker efficiency for shirt is higher than trouser but lower than T- shirt. This is because trouser is having more parts and the legs are longer. T-shirt has less no. of components so there is less wastage. Solid fabric gives highest efficiency. Stripe & plaid gives less efficiency because matching is required. But all over printed fabric gives slightly less efficiency than solid when print is required at some particular position. A) Shirt Shirt is one of most basic garments, which is manufactured widely. So it becomes important for every manufacturer to achieve highest efficiency for the same. The picture depicted below explains the efficiency trends of the shirt.

Marker Efficiency of shirt

90 Efficiency % 85 80 75 70 65 Solid Stripe Plaid Print Type of Fabric Manual Semi Automatic & Automatic High Level

Figure 10: Marker efficiency for Shirt

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The graph shows that in case of solid shirt high level is having highest efficiency. Below this is automatic level, then semi automatic & manual levels. For solids no matching is required so automarker is most efficient marker making tool. In case of stripes & checks the marker efficiency is lowest with automarker. Print is showing almost same trends as that of solids. For plaids/stripes fabrics manual process is more efficient. Because manually one can match check and stripe efficiently in comparison to the automatic marker making. B) Trouser Trouser is one of most common basic garments among all bottoms, which is manufactured widely. So it becomes important for every manufacturer to achieve highest efficiency for the same. The picture depicted below explains the efficiency trends of the trouser.
Marker Efficiency of trouser
90.00 Efficiency % 85.00 80.00 75.00 70.00 65.00 Solid Stripe Plaid Print Type of fabric Manual Semi Automatic & Automatic High Level

Figure 11: Marker Efficiency for Trouser

The graph shows that in case of solid trouser, high level is having highest efficiency. Below this is automatic level, then semi automatic & manual levels. For solids no matching is required so automarker make marker more efficiently. In case of stripes & checks the marker efficiency is lowest with automarker. Print is showing almost same trends as that of solids.

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C) Trouser T-Shirt is one of most basic garments among all casuals, which is manufactured widely. So it becomes important for every manufacturer to achieve highest efficiency for the same. The picture depicted below explains the efficiency trends of the t-shirt marker making.

Marker Efficiency of T-shirt

95.00 90.00 Efficiency % 85.00 80.00 75.00 70.00 65.00 Solid Stripe Plaid Print Type of fabric Semi Automatic & Automatic High Level Manual

Figure 12: Marker Efficiency for T-Shirt

The graph shows that in case of solid t-shirt high level is having highest efficiency. Below this is automatic level, then semi automatic & manual levels. For solids no matching is required so automarker make marker more efficiently. In case of stripes & checks the marker efficiency is lowest with automarker. Print is showing almost same trends as that of solids. Anova analysis: The graph mentioned below is clearly showing that the distribution of values is not normal. So we are not able to apply any parametric statistical test for analysis. Besides that these data fail to pass the normality and linearity test. The reason for this deviation is that: The time difference between the levels is very high. The other reason is that no. of companies using high level is very less. [39]

4.7 Time taken Time taken includes the total time required to make pattern, grade the pattern & placing the pieces on the lay and drawing the marker. Time is most important factor to compare the four levels. And there is significant difference between the four levels in terms of time. Time is generally higher in case of doing the processes manually. The reason is that whenever changes are required in the pattern the Pattern Master has to make the pattern again & again but with software they can easily make alterations and thus consumes less time. The time taken for each of the processes is lowest in case of T-shirt due to less no. of components. A) Pattern making Pattern making process is one of the crucial processes among all process of product development. Along with this it is most time consuming process. So implementation of technology for this process becomes crucial to save time. Comparisons of time taken by different ways of product development are given below.

Time taken for pattern making

200 Time in mins 150 100 50 0 Shirt Trouser Type of garment T-Shirt CAD Manual

Figure 13: Time taken for Pattern Making

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The first graph shown compares the pattern making time for manual & CAD. The CAD is used by all levels except manual. The other graph shows the time taken individually for each level. Time taken for pattern making is highest for trouser as it contains more parts whereas shirt has fewer components. Pattern of the T shirt can be prepared in least time as compared to others. As use of the software makes the work easier and faster so time taken in case of manual is obviously more. Because in software all the tools helps to make the work simpler the operator just need to enter the value of the desired operation & operation is done automatically. Meanwhile time taken can be reduced more by giving proper training to the operator. If operator will be trained more in CAD then they can take less than what we got from the survey. So time, highly depends on skill of the operator.

B) Pattern grading Pattern grading is the process in which involvement of technology can reduce time by many factors. Due to this all most all semi automatic industry are using this feature of CAD. Even for doing this they are purchasing CAD software. One can say that CAD is life line for grading patterns. Without this it becomes very confusing and hectic job. It is most widely used feature of CAD Systems which makes grading simpler & faster. There are two graphs shown below, one is showing the time taken for grading by manual & CAD. The other graph explains the trend of time taken in grading in different levels of technology.

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Time taken for pattern grading

400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0 Shirt Trouser Type of garment T-Shirt

Time in mins

CAD Manual

Figure 14: Time taken for Pattern grading

Pattern grading involves the grading the pattern to differnet sizes. Grading time depends on the the no. of points at which grading is required, no. of sizes, no. of componenets & style of garment. For basic gamrents and four sizes, Grading of T-shirt takes lowest time as compared to shirt & trouser. Trouser even takes more time than shirt due to more no. of points at which grading is required. Grading time is very in manual systems but it nearly same for rest of the levels. C) Marker making Marker making is like a puzzle to arrange pattern pieces on the fabric to get minimum wastage. Manually the operator needs to place the pattern pieces again & again to get maximum efficiency. But in case of Software it easier for the operator to see the marker again & again after shifting the pieces & finally when he gets maximum efficiency then only he takes the print out of the marker. There are two graphs shown below, one is showing the time taken for marker making by manual & CAD. The other graph explains the trend of time taken in marker making in [42]

different levels of technology. From the second picture it is very much clear that automarker can do efficient marker within few minutes.

Time taken for marker making

100 Time in mins 80 60 40 20 0 Shirt Trouser Type of Garment T-Shirt Manual CAD Smartmark

Figure 15: Time taken for Marker making

It is easier to place the pattern for a shirt than trouser because the long legs of trouser make the work a little complex. A T-Shirt has fewer components so they get arranged easily. Due to this reason time taken marker making for t-shirt is lowest in comparisons to shirt and trouser. Between different levels of technology marker making time is least in case of automarker. Manual process of marker making is taking highest time in comparisons to other process. D) Total time taken (for Pattern making, grading & marker making) In this section overall time taken in product development and marker making is given. The graph shown below clearly depicts that the total time taken is lowest in high level while highest in manual level for all types of basic garments which we have considered.

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Time Taken in Product development & Marker making

700 600 Time (mins) 500 400 300 200 100 0 Shirt Trouser Type of Garment T-Shirt Manual Semi automatic Automatic High Level

Figure 16: Time taken in Product development & marker making

Within the type of basic garments the time taken is highest for trouser while lowest in T shirt. For the shirt it is between the two. As from graph one can conclude that high level is most efficient technology and by this time consumed is least.

Annova Analysis: The graph mentioned below is clearly showing that the distribution of values is not normal. So we are not able to apply any parametric statistical test for analysis. Besides that these data fail to pass the normality and linearity test. The reason for this deviation is that: The time difference between the levels is very high. The other reason is that no. of companies using high level is very less.

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4.8 Virtual Prototyping (e-fit) There is no any direct impact of Virtual prototyping on the product development. But there is several indirect effects like: E-Sampling: Manufacturer can send e-sample. This can save there cost and time incurred in dealing with the practically sending the samples and getting approvals from buyers.

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Fit: Fit and the drape of the garment can be checked before sending pattern and marker for cutting of the fabrics. By this the areas where there is more tension can be checked on the standard models. Thus pattern can be corrected to get perfect it on the body. This can be most useful in the case of high fashion garments.

There is other useful impact of Virtual Prototyping that is directly or indirectly affecting Cost, Time, and Quality of the product development. So there is a scope of adoption of virtual prototyping but still most of the buyers are not recommending the use of virtual prototyping. This may be because they are more comfortable in getting fit & drape check on the dummies. That is why most of garment industries are still hesitating to adopt this technology.

4.9 Lacking Areas The companies which are using CAD are satisfied with most of the features but still they are facing some problems. In dart manipulation they are facing the problem of dart slashing, & dart opening. They are not able to open the dart properly and dart can be added from end point to end point not in between. Notch marking is other feature in which CAD operators are facing problem. Shade variation problem is most common problem faced by CAD operators. In this they have to make marker manually as the software is not having any key to take care of shade variation. So there should be some feature in marker making software to overcome this problem. Marker Efficiency is sometimes less in case of plaid or stripes so CAD operators have to arrange the pattern pieces manually to get minimum wastage. The companies which are making high fashion garments such as ladies dresses are facing problems in frill making and then grading it with the help of CAD. The shape of frill is not exact as they are getting manually. In future these can be taken care of for further improvement and to make the software more user friendly & useful.

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CHAPTER-5 CONCLUSIONS

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CONCLUSIONS
By this research we have reached at the conclusions mentioned below. The conclusions can be divided as: 1. Cost: By observing the trends in the cost, we can conclude that investment is highest in high level of technology while it is decreasing as we move from high to manual level. But the cost/piece is increasing as we are moving from highest level to lowest level. So we can conclude that adoption of technology is in the favour of the manufacturing. Not only cost wise but also it will save lead time and perform better in terms of the quality. So person having expertise in use of different softwares for product development can perform better & can give good results. Besides the technology, skill of the operator who is also affecting cost indirectly. 2. Marker Efficiency: High level gives highest efficiency for solid/print fabric. But manual gives highest efficiency for stripe/plaid fabric. Saving of fabrics done by high level technology is very high. So we can conclude that high marker efficiency can be achieved by high level of technology. Manual process is giving better efficiency in the case of the stripe/check. But all other parameters are in favour of the CAD and higher level technology.

3. Time: As lead time is most crucial in garment business. CAD and other tools are decreasing consumed time with high rate. Time is highest in manual and lowest in case of high level for pattern making, pattern grading and marker making. Automarker can make marker within few minutes. So high level is very much time saving in comparison to the low and middle level technology.

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CHAPTER-6 SUGGESTIONS & FUTURE WORK

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SUGGESTIONS & FUTURE WORK

Suggestions: According to us CAD systems and other add-on features are very much useful for product development and marker making. It can reduce consumed time, cost incurred and the marker efficiency. So it should be adopted by all garment manufacturers in todays competitive scenario. Without fearing from the cost of software license and hardware, one should adopt it for more profit. Beside the benefits, there are some drawbacks that should not be neglected. In market there are too many CAD system sellers. But every CAD system has some drawbacks. Like CAD software is not having solution for the shade variation problem. Besides this some other problems like dart manipulation, frill making etc. For this CAD companies should take regular feedback from the user. Their suggestions can be used to make the software more beneficial.

Future Work: We have done survey in NCR Delhi region. For getting more standard result one should select larger sample size. So, they can get sufficient data. Only in that case they will able to apply any parametric statistical tools. After that only the more standard results can be interpreted.

Besides that one can extend or do Research for other processes of sampling and garment manufacturing like cutting etc. In that case also they will be able to analyze the effect of technology on different processes. This leads to another fruitful result and that can help both garment manufacturers and those companies who are providing softwares to them.

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CHAPTER-7 LIMITATIONS OF RESEARCH

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LIMITATIONS OF RESEARCH
Following are the limitations of our research: 1. Sample size (34) represents whole population. 2. Survey conducted is limited to NCR & Delhi region. 3. No. of companies under the category of automatic & high level is low. 4. We are not able to conduct experiment due to time constraint.

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TOOLS USED
1. SPSS for windows version 17.0: SPSS stands for (statistical package for social sciences). It was developed in 1968. SPSS predictive analytics software improves business processes by directing, optimizing, and automating decisions made throughout an organization. Predictive analytics includes both the analysis of past, present, and projected future outcomes using advanced analytics, and decision optimization for determining which action will drive the optimal outcome. The recommended action is then delivered to the systems or people that can effectively implement it. Unlike other vendors that offer either limited predictive capabilities or predictive analytics that cannot be deployed enterprise-wide, SPSS' comprehensive technology is highly scalable and interoperable, enabling us to perform predictive analytics across disparate data sources and leverage our existing technology investments. 2. Microsoft excel (MS office tools) version 2003, 2007: It is a spread sheet which performs all the operations of statistics along with plotting graphs & charts. It is one of user friendly tool to compile the data and get some results. It helps in calculating the frequently required operations such as mean, sum, division, multiplication etc within a fraction of seconds. The same operations can be performed in different cells very easily without wasting time. Functions such as autosum for automatic addition. It also helps in arranging the data in increasing or decreasing order. The data can be arranged in alphabetical order. The graphs can be prepared easily and can be changed automatically by changing the data.

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APPENDICES

Questionnaire
1. Type of business%: Domestic _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Export _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 2. Installed Capacity: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 3. Average Production: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 4. Product Details: Ladies wear Shirt/blouse Trouser Skirt Pant Other Woven Denim Non denim Width Max___________________ Min____________________ Mens wear Shirt Trouser Pant Cargo Other Knits Single jersey Double jersey Rib Interlock GSM Max___________________ Min____________________ Width Max___________________ Min____________________ Open ___ Tube ___ Kids wear fashion garments

Solid ____ Print _____ Stripe ____ Check ____

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7. Level of automation: Manual Semi automatic Operations done by Software Pattern making Grading marker making Digitizing Automatic Pattern making, grading & Marker making by software High level of automation Virtual prototyping 8. Software details: Softwares No. of licenses Version Video facility use year of Installation Initial Tuka CAD Tuka mark Smartmark Virtual prototyping (e-fit). 9. Hardware details: Hardware Numbers Year of Installation Initial Digitizer [VIII] Investment Maintenance Total Investment Maintenance Total Select

Plotter 10. Operator details: Number Pattern Masters Operators Helpers 11. Marker efficiency (For 4 way marker) Garment Level of automation Marker Width Shirt Trouser T shirt 12. Time required Pattern making Shirt Trouser T shirt 13. Software lacking area Features Dart manipulation Notch marking Shade variation problem Marker Efficiency Select Grading Marker making Efficiency Solid Stripe Check Print Manual CAD Manual CAD Manual CAD Manual CAD Salary

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List of companies surveyed

NAME 1 Aval Fashion 2 Bharat Export Overseas 3 BL International 4 Blue impex 5 Chelsea Ltd 6 Fashion Club Global 7 Fashion Style 8 Graffiti Exports 9 Gulati Exports 10 ITC Ltd 11 Kanchan international 12 Kokan Exports 13 Lasurab International 14 Matrix clothing (knits) 15 Matrix clothing (wovens) 16 Mona designs 17 Om Garments
18 19 20 21 22 OM Exports

LOCATION Khandsa, Gurgaon Gurgaon Gurgaon Gurgaon Gurgaon Gurgaon Gurgaon Gurgaon Gurgaon Gurgaon Gurgaon Gurgaon
Gurgaon

Gurgaon Mehrauli Okhla Okhla

Khanpur, Delhi Khanpur, Delhi Khanpur, Delhi Khanpur, Delhi Khanpur, Delhi

Orient Craft Orient Fashions Penex Overseas

Plaza Computers

23 24 25 26
27 28

29 30 31 32 33 34

Poddar Exports R & R Impact Pvt Ltd Richa Exports Richa Exports(knits) Richa Exports(woven) Rolex Hoisery S.A.N International TCNS
Theme Exports

Khanpur, Delhi Mehrauli Noida Gurgaon

Noida Gurgaon

Triburg V & S International Vishesh International

Kirti Nagar Mayapuri Gurgaon Gurgaon Gurgaon Nariana,Delhi

[X]

Company Profile
Introduction Tukatech provides affordable fashion design and apparel product development solutions to the worldwide apparel and sewn goods industry. Tukatech quickly achieved world recognition with an innovative approach to streamlining the fashion design, development [XI]

and manufacturing processes through award winning fashion software, patternmaking and virtual sample services, consulting, and customer support. They are the first and leading company in the world to offer apparel product development outsourcing (APDO) as a service to the industry. They leverage their expertise and leading technology to streamline pattern making, sample making, and associated apparel development processes for apparel companies worldwide. It was founded in California in 1997 by CEO Ram Sareen, a veteran of the garment industry who is well-known and respected for his knowledge of the apparel product development and garment manufacturing process all over the world. With a focus on customer satisfaction through user-friendly products, outstanding training and support, Tukatech has built an impressive list of clientele supported by a global network of industry experts. Their world headquarters is at Los Angeles, Canada and Asian headquarters is at Gurgaon, Haryana. Milestones in the growth of Tukatech In 2000 CEO Mr. Ram Sareen was chosen as one of the 20 most influential businessmen in the apparel industry by - California Apparel News. In 2004 it was first to provide an Apparel CAD/CAM software rental program. In this year Tukatech was also chosen as one of the 20 most influential companies in the apparel industry - by California Apparel News. In 2005 it was first to launch 3D virtual apparel prototyping software. In 2006 it was ranked 8 in the Apparel Magazine Software Scorecard. In this year Apparel CAD/CAM was also chosen by ATDC as the CAD that is to be used to teach in all ATDC schools across India. In 2007 it was ranked 1 in the Apparel Magazine Software Scorecard.

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In 2008 Warnaco/CK Jeans implemented Tukatechs fit forms technology across vendors. In this same year largest exporter in India (Orient Craft) replaces all competitive systems with Tukatech products.

Tukatech Solutions TUKAcad It is a powerful and user-friendly pattern making, pattern grading, and marker making software system. Integral to fashion design, this apparel CAD software is capable of producing anything from high-fashion couture clothing to mass produced garments, making it the perfect solution for apparel businesses and garment manufacturers of any size. It is easy-to-learn and has consistently been ranked as one of the most advanced apparel CAD systems in the world. Comprehensive audio/video help in multiple languages, automatic updates, and MS Office integration are some of the standard features. Notable pattern making tools include; dart manipulation, dart fullness, fabric shrinkage, pattern card creation, etc. SMARTmark It is a highly advanced marker making software application that works as a TUKAcad module. It uses one of the most advanced algorithms in the industry to get the absolute most efficient use of your material possible, in a fraction of the time it would take a person to make the markers manually. SMARTmark can queue many markers at a time, work automatically, do ratio or single-size markers, and use bump lines to control markers on fabric with shade variations. E-fit Simulator A digital sample is a prototype on our computer that shows us how a garment is going to look and fit before it is actually sewn. e-fit Simulator turns patterns into digital samples that can be sent around the world through e-mail to enhance [XIII]

communication, get feedback and deliver quality samples in less time. e-fit Simulator's digital samples do not require any fabric or sewing machine, and can be sent instantly, at the speed of email, to anyone around the world. e-fit Simulator software takes a digital (CAD) pattern and a set of fabric values (such as stretch, weight, etc) and creates for you a digital sample of the garment, draped on a 3D virtual fit model, using the latest in cloth simulation technology. Users of e-fit Simulator provide the software with the pattern, the type of fabric and the measurements and shape of the fit model, and the system will accurately create the sample. The system is designed with users in mind, and is easy to learn and use. Users can create many samples in much less time than it would take to sew and deliver a real garment. Tukatrack The TUKAtrack Information Tracking System is a real-time production control and management system that captures production events as they occur and provides corresponding up-to-the-minute information, reports and analysis to the people who need it to manage and make decisions. It also provides processed information to the operators who can monitor their own performance with respect to the requirements from them. The TUKAtrack ITS System is based on the revolutionary RFID technology and provides a low cost information gathering, management and analysis tool for manufacturing organizations who want to use technology to be competitive in the global market. This technology provides information from the operator level, line level, floor level, right up to factory level. This information can be organized, analyzed and studied for better and quicker decision making.

Tukaplan

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Apparel Tech pack and apparel PDM/ PLM module replaces e-mail attachments and MS Excel spec sheets with efficient and effective ways of communicating, sharing and collaborating information on a common platform accessible over the internet from anywhere in the world. Apparel Web PDM/ PLM is a revolutionary application for the clothing industry that will help in streamlining fashion product development cycle. Focused on all phases of a product's lifecycle - from style development to apparel pre-production Tukaplan allows users and companies to collaborate with anyone within the organization and/or with customers and suppliers during the apparel product development and approval process.Collaboration throughout the apparel fashion lifecycle gives an organization the power to communicate effectively & avoid errors. Tukastudio It is a complete fabric design software studio solution for creating all textile components including color ways, design repeats, jacquards, plaids, yarn dyes, and visual merchandising. This state-of-the-art software system supports single users as well as multi-user environments. TUKAstudios Storyboards module is where everything comes together. The textile designs, all the colorways and color palettes, and any weaves, jacquards or knits that were created. TUKAstudios Storyboard module allows creating presentations and catalogs, with features specifically developed for the textile industry. Plotters It is capable of plotting with almost all apparel CAD systems connected to them directly or remotely via e-mail or the internet; these versatile plotters are quiet and require very little maintenance. They are designed to be environmentally friendly, and can even use newsprint and recycled paper--thus saving the cost of regular bond paper.

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Tukaforms Fit model feature precise anatomical detail and use a unique, patented material that looks and performs like human skin. Soft-body dress form technology is the professionals choice over traditional hard-body paper mache dress forms.

Benefits of using TUKA softwares Better communication: With the help of softwares merchandiser can easily communicate with buyers. Pattern masters can easily send patterns to merchandiser. This helps in communicating with accuracy. This also makes easier to retrieve the patterns which were prepared months ago. Quality control & assurance in product development: The quality & accuracy is very high in softwares as compared to perform the operations manually. Fabric saving: By using this fabric consumption can be easily calculated. So marker can be easily adjusted to save maximum fabric. Time saving: Time can be saved to higher extent by making alterations in the existing patterns & grading can be done very easily in few minutes. The changes can be easily without actually making the garments.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY
Web Pages / sites http://www.tukatech.com www.sttichworld.net http://www.tc2.com http://en.wikipedia.org http://www.socialresearchmethods.net www.uwsp.edu

Books 1. CAD/CAM: Computer aided design & manufacturing, Groover, Mikell P. 2. CAD in clothing and textiles: A collection of report reviews. 3. CAD/CAM handbook, Teicholz, Eric. 4. CAD in clothing and textiles, Aldrich, Winifred. 5. Apparel Product Development, Johnson, Maurice J. 6. The New Cutting Room, David T. Shirey. 7. Clothing appearance and fit: Science and technology, J.Fan,W.Yu, and L.Hunter. 8. CAD for fashion designing, Chase, Renec Weiss. 9. Innovation product development & commercialization, Rafinejad Dariush. 10. CAD in clothing and textiles, Gray, Stephen. 11. Fast creativity & innovation: Rapidly improving process, product development and 12. solving complex problems, Bytheway, Charles W.

Journals & Magazines 1. New Conceptual Model for Design Development of Smart Clothing, Ariyatum B. 2. 4- DP78, CAD/CAM a comparative study, GMT, NIFT, Delhi. 3. Fashion design CAD/CAM software overview, by Mr. Saar Machtinger [XVI]

4. From Early Virtual Garment Simulation to Interactive Fashion Design Pascal VOLINO, Frederic CORDIER, Nadia MAGNENAT-THALMANN MIRALab. 5. November 2004; CAD systems In the Indian textile & apparel industry; Stitch World; Volume II, Issue 9.

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