Bora-Trifoiler Concept Spars -Use aluminum tubing of at least inside diameter to allow servo cable passage, such as Type

e 3003-H14 Aluminum Tubing Inside Diameter: 0.495 In. Outside Diameter: 5/8 Wall Thickness: 0.065 In. It is quite springy and very tough. -Main spar should be epoxied or bonded into the main hull for torsional rigidity. - Cross Tube, (the one running between the front hulls, across the Main Spar is to be fixed to blocks bonded into the foam hulls with adhesive. In this way, torsion loading is transferred into the hulls, without causing wear from the twisting motion. Connection Blocks -All spar connections, (Mast to Spar, and Spar to Cross Tube) will be by using nylon blocks, made from fiber filled Delrin nylon. For any joint that must resist rotation, (Mast to Spar block prevented from moving on Spar), a bolt will pass through block and spar to resist any rotation. (Note: the mast is simply held by compression and the downward force of the fore and aft stay in tension. Forward Outrigger Hulls (or Amas) -Make from one piece of foam, (Likely molded for rigidity.) -Outer surface is made with a curve, to reduce frictional drag in the water. -Inner surface, (towards the main hull), is flat to prevent splashing, and easing the forces in a turn on the Ama to reduce front steer effect. -All vertical surfaces that beat against the water in a turn create a drag function forward to make the steering force of the aft rudder pivot the hull around the Ama. -Bow is cut to create a fast lift to get the hulls up and out of the water. -All upper edges are rounded to reduce wear and damage from rough handling and incidental impacts. -A molded pocket for the servo insures solid force transfer, allowing all the power of the servo to be used in moving the forward foils smoothly. -Delrin block made to hold tubing of the Cross Tube is set in a small pocket and bonded in for strength. Forward Wave Wing -Make the wing surface from a piece of plastic (Like found on a milk bottle), and screw to a small plastic block that has a drilled hole for the end of the Spar to fit in. Secure with a screw to lock in position. The function of this wing is to lift the bow up, (when a taller wave then is normally cleared by the lift of the foils), carrying the bows over the wave instead of potentially digging in, and flipping the boat.

Main Hull -Should be made of expanded foam, and painted with good (foam friendly) paint. -Pockets for the radio, batteries, and the rudder servo should be cast into the block top. (Note: The batteries and the receiver should be put into a plastic wrap to prevent incidental water on the electronics.) -Main hull bow is cut to speed lift onto the foils and a sloped, flat surface will do this cheaply. As the boat is up on foils for most of the runs at speed, this is not a problem. (Note: The flat front will give a braking effect as the hull reenters the water, and this can be useful in turns. A turn around a pylon that brings the hull down into the water will slow quickly and add stability. Once the turn is made and wind force comes back into play as the sails are adjusted, the hull will jump back up n the foils and accelerate. This is very much like a sports car in a turn with the action of accelerator and brake.) -A wooden plate is mounted on the foam hull with adhesives, and the rudder pivot is then attached to this to prevent shock loading from the rudder foil from wearing holes in the softer foam. Foils -Cast in a one-piece form from plastic (from a simple mold to make easy replacement parts!) -Rudder will be a symmetrical form to prevent creating any one-sided lift that could affect steering adversely. -Foil is asymmetrical, like an aircraft wing. This creates only an upward lift and insures the fastest planing without having to adjust any flaps to generate lift, (reducing cost, and complexity.) -Pivot shaft is cast into the foil in the mold to lock shaft into foil and give solid control. -The same T-shaped foil is used on the hull at all three locations, so that less design and replacement work is involved. This also insures that the lift is equal on all three points. Steering -The usual steering is done by the rudder/foil at the rear of the main hull. The boat turns around on the resistance created by the foil on the inside of the turn. (If the forward foils are set to turn the opposite way from the aft (rudder) foil, only half the angle is required which increases maneuverability speed at the price of using battery power fast in running three servos at once.) (Note: You could turn with the front foils and keep the aft foil locked, but that is a power drain when two servos are used that much!) -The most unusual system effect, is to steer with the aft rudder, and then when you want (like in suddenly passing another boat), you can have the front foils move in the same direction as the aft rudder and the boat will move DIAGONALLY to its apparent course. This allows you to suddenly move to the side of the boat ahead, and then bring the foils back to center for a high speed run up along their side. (If done to the windward side of the boat ahead, you steal their wind and accelerate past them as they slow down! This very handy in turns where you bring their hull down in speed as you accelerate away

and gain distance as the slowing in the turn requires them make the rest of the turn in the water and not flying over it.) Kit Layout There will be eight major pieces to the boat in their travel box ready to assemble to sail. 1. Main hull with the Spar and the Mast block (fixed), the Cross Tube Block (fixed) and the bow mounted Forward Wave Wing (fixed.) 2. Cross Tube (with internal Servo cables and fixed Molex plugs to attach the Ama Servos for the forward foils.) 3. Two Amas with their foils attached, and servos installed, (each servo cable will attach to their receptacles in the Cross Tube.) 4. Rear rudder/foil unit to attach to the main hull with a Nyloc nut 5. Mast rigged with stays. 6. Sail, already rigged with sheet line, (and attachment lines), for fast rigging, and tensioning for sail shaping with simple tensioners. 7. Radio gear (transmitter, receiver, servos, batteries, and the connectors.) 8. A simple wooden stand, to hold the main hull and spar, (to aid in assembly of the boat and to keep the foils off the ground.) If this kit is properly designed, you could have a cheap kit (in production runs of say 1,000 units); you could potentially see a kit price of $30-$40 to make the structure. If you want a boat for someone to build from scratch, a foam and fiberglass hull, or a balsa and fiberglass hull would need to be designed.