-l

HTNVY.DUTY CIRCULAR SNWS ITSTNIICOUTTERTOPS A PNO T LIrN

THr onlctNALHorrae wooDwoRKtNG RruplupRovEMENr MncnzlhrE

llilJIilil ilfiil

M
HOUEWRIGHT 2O'rootstorageShed

bff
Build this shed and you'll have a perfect introductionto basic framing techniques,not to mention a perfect placeto keep yard tools and supplies. and Havingplantingsupplies toolsnearthe gardenis a real Let convenience. this simple-tobuild storagecabinet/potting benchanswerthe call.

WoOoWORKING 40Garden WorkCenter

Shedplan,page26. we By populardemand bring you the ToolStorage

WeETeNDPROJECT
4Slnstall A Countertop
Breathing life into your kitchen may be as easyas installing new laminate To countertops. get outstandingresults,it paysto know the tricks the pros use. page40. GardenWorkCenter, MobilePlanerStation,page53.

WonxsHoP
Station Planer 53 vtoUile
They saythey'reportable,but planersare heavy. benchtop This wheeledplafform will makeyour machineeasierto move,andprovidean idealshop or job sitework station.

yourself,page48. Get superiorresultswhenyou InstallA Countertof

\Torkbench I Tune1998

De@
& 6 QuEsrrorus AruswERs
L2ttps &
TTCHNIQUES

OvenTne Feruce
18 x"*s andEvents

page Tips& Techniques, 12.

page OuerTheFence,

lru-DeprH Revrew
44rcuaers of the Pack
Circular saws come with all sorts of features and price tags. Go straight to the top to get power, accuracy, and a tool that'll last a lifetime.

MnTUFACTURING 58m" on-Site Sawyer

Heavy-dutycircular saw performance Leadersofthe Pack,page 44. Have trees you want milled? Save money, time, and your back by having a portable band saw operation visit your site to cut lumber exactly how you want it.

SHOp IvpRovEMENTs 62 X"*Tool Offerings WHAT,S NEW Home 66 noauctsForYour CnnTTSMANSHIP 72 e|ute ofTwo Saws
Favoring a sidewinder or wormdrive circular saw may be the result of geographic destiny.

page58. Milling logs into lumberwithThe On-Site Sawyer,

\TorkbenchI Tune1998

[Js Reaching
When we develop the Projects for usuallytakesa the Workbench, process has long time. First somebody an idea, oftengrowingout of a problemor soluworking in their tion they experienced own home or shop.Then we all talk it over, make some sketches,take the ideain variousdirections,and eventually endup with a rough notionof what honethe idea still we want. Designers further, until we all agree it's readY startsto fly. and sawdust The pointis, I havea lot of resources to draw on, and our efforts end uP in your handsevery two months.I wish everyonehad accessto the talented I craftsmen havearoundhere. Well, you may not be able to talk to them face to face,but I do know how you can get their help, especiallyif somethingis unclear in the pagesof We Workbench. may not be right there with you, but we're easyto reach. Here'show...

\XroRKBllt\rC
54 VOLUME 3 NUMBER
EDTTORChristopherA Inman AssocIATE EDITORSWilliam laHay Kerry Gibson AS5ISTAT{T EDITOR David E. Stone ART DIRECTORRobert L. Foss SR. ILLUSIMTOR Erich lage SusanJessen ILLUSTRATOR DIRECTORTed lGalicek CREATIVE DIRECTORIark Smothermon PHOTOGRAPHY Crayola England PHOTOGRAPHER SENIOR KentWelsh COORDINATOR PROJECT SHOPMANAGERSteve Curtis SHOPCRAFT5MANSteveJohnson Ken Munkel DEVELOPER PROJECT DESIGNERKevin Boyle PROJECT Douglas M. Lidster ELEC.PUB.COORDINATOR SPEC. Troy Clark IMAGE PRE.PRESS Minniette Bieghler Donald B, PesChKC PRESIDENT PUBLISHER & SALESMANAGERS ADVERTISING ext. 2200 Mary K Day (515)282-7000 ext' GeorgeA Clark (515)282-7000 2201 MAMGER COMMUNICATIONS MARKETING ext. Tara Meier (515)282-7000 2135 PUBLISHING CONSULTAT{T Peter H. Miller Q02)362-9367

you Matt TbRondeis our technicalsupport expert. If you call (800)311-3991 Matt aboutwoodworkingproblems,and get help on tough spotsin cantalk to the projects. Matt has heard it all, so don't ever think your question is too smallto give him a holler.And if he doesn'thavethe answerright off, he'll talk to us and we'll work togetherto get you what you need.You can alsowrite to Be GrandAve.,Des Moines,tA 50312. sure Matt or to us at Workbench,2200 your Tips to this addresstoo. to send

or If you're up to speedon the internet you can senda tip, message, question and to workbench@workbenchmag.com it will comeright to our office.

will web logging onto the Workbench site at www.workbenchmag.com put you good informationaswell asconnectyou with our forums in touch with a lot of You'll find out aboutour other fine on woodworkingand home improvement. products,job openings, links to dozensof web sites and booksand magazines, homeimprovementfield. and in the woodworking

FORHEIP WITHYOUR CONTACT: SUBSCRIPTION WORKBENCH Service Customer PO.Box842 IA DesMoines, 503049961 (800) Phone: 311-3991 Fax 615)283-0447 SUPPTITS: PROJECT WORKBENCH To ORDER cdl 1-80G311-3994 BY A TO SEND LETTER E.MNT: com workbench@workbenchmag.

The Youmay needto tell us abouta concernor problemwith your magazine. way to let us know your needsis by calling (800)311'3991' easiest

ABOUT INFORMATION FoR MORE WOODWORKING, HOMEIMPROVEMENT, VISITTHE AT.IO GARDENING COONHE, WEBSITE: WoRKBENCH

http://www.augusthome.com
Audit Bureau of Circulations

above,you can order hardwarekits for In addition to the internet addresses (800)311-3994 projectsby calling

DayI Farher's Happy 0L

Use But hobbies. thereis riskof injury. are and Woodworking homeimprovement rewarding SafetyReminder: abouta techAnd that and readthe manuals comewithyourtoolsandequipment. if youteuncertain theguards Please takesafetyseriously. with nique,find an alternative whichyou are morecomfortable.

bimonthlv is 004}8057) published WOH{BENCH(ISSN Home Publishing Nov)byAugust Mar., July, May, Sept, 0an., Iowa, 50312. Ave., 2200 Company, Grand DesMoines, Home ed en Workbchis a rcgrster tademarkofAugust Compmy Publishing August CoppightO1998 Home Publishing. All rightsreserved. Oneyear Subscription rates: Singlecopy,$3.95. (6 Canadian/Foreign, subscription issues), $15.95. postage at paid per add$6.00 year.Periodicals offices. IA DesMoines, andat additional Poly." Press "USPS/Heartland Automatable changes Workbench, to Postmaster: Sendaddress Boone,1ASN374272. POBox37272. Printed in U.S-A-

WorkbenchI June 1998

&Ans\Mers Questions
Panels Provide Access For Reattaching Window Weigfuts
E

(Al to Therofesthat are suffiosed \ut .. are holdmy windowweights El so broken. How can I get to theweights I canfix them? BobAnderson RI Montauk. Repairing sashcordsis simple, but gettingat them takesa bit to of work. The cordsare attached the edgesof the sashandto weightsthat ride in a cavitybehindthe window's sidejambs.A pulleynearthe top of the jamb guidesthe cord.The weight counterbalances sash,makingit the easierto raiseandlower. you On mostwindows, canget to the panelslocated weightsthrough access jambs.Tb reachthe panels, on the side you first haveto removethe sashand the stopsthat hold the sashin place. to Use a utility knife if necessary cut through the paint or finish where the inner stopsmeetthe jambs,andcare the fully pry the stopsfree. Remove lower sashfrom the jamb. @emove the parting stopsaswell if you plan to replace cordsfor the uppersash). the panNow you canget to the access the els.Remove screwholding each panel, pull the panels out, andremove the weights nearestthe insidewall (for the lower sash)from behindthe jambs. If any of the old cord remains, it use to sizenew sashcord,which you can pick up at a hardwarestore.Then feedthe new sashcord overthe pulley into the cavity.The cord canbe tough to push through, so attacha fishing

weight to a string and drop it in first. Then tie the cord to the string and pull it through.Tie the cord to the weight and replacethe weight in the cavity. hold Tb determine cords'length, the its fully raisedposition.Pull the sashat the cord to raisethe weight off the bot-

tom of the cavity,and cut the cordjust Tie to belowwhereit attaches the sash. a knot in the endof the cord,insertthe knot in the edgeof the sash,and drive bradsthrough the cord into the sash. for Repeat process the otherside this then reinstallthe sashand inner stops.

Weight cavity behind casing.

cord secure Cut to length, tosash knot brads, with &

woodworking If youhavea question about or write and home improvement, it down mailit to W0RKBENCH Grand Ave.,Des Q&A,2200 your Moines, 50312. [A P]ease include name, phone in we adrlress daytime and number case have questions foryou. Ifyoulike,Faxusat any (515)283-2003 to or sendan E-mail message workbench@workbenchmag.com.

YOUR SHARE SUESTI(II{S

Receioable:MtgoPetrts. Production Direcfor: George Chmielarz . Ploductioil Ashtailf Suw Dickmm . Nea Media Manager: Gordon . ldR Guppe . Web Site Art Director: Gene Pederson . Networh Ad.ministratol. Al Bilnes . I.S. Su\tort Asistazf Chris Hurimn . Slecial Prcjects Dilecrol. Saville lnmm. Adminbtratioe A$istaat; Julia Fish . Recettionkts: JeMe Johnsn, ,4$6tarti Ki6ten Koele SherylRibbey. BuildingMaixt,:KenGriffithCirculation:SabscriberSeruic$Direclor:SmdyBaum.NeuBrein$Director:GlerdaK Manager Todd Bieile . Proilztior Manager: Rick Junkins . Reweal Manager: Pdge Rogere . Billiw Manage/: Batdes . Nea Broao . A$ktailt Subsciltion Manager loy Knuse . A$ociate Graphic Daign Direcfor: Susie Rider . Senior Graqhic Rebeca Cunninghm Daigter: Cheryl Simpson Books: Exuutioe &litor: Douglas L Hicks o Senior Crubhi Daigner: Chris Glowacki Prcducts Grcup: Oleratiow Director: Bob Baker . Mateliak Mailager: Mak Mattiussi . Cwtomel Senice M$: Jennie Enos . Warehowe SuPemisr: Semice Rep.: Matt TeRonde . Oreratio$ Nmcy Johnson . Buter: litda Jones . Qualily Control ?ecrl.: Frank Johnson . Tqhilml Truckenbrod, Nmcy Domey, Adm Best, Deborah Rich ' ,4$istartj Tmmy Ndni . Cwtomer Seruice RePs.:Ama Cox, Tamy Storet Mailagel: Dave lason . A$istant Manager Paul Schneider . Salq Staff, Walehowe: Syllia CTey, Nmcy Comelly Woodnifi Pat hwy, Wendell Stone, Jim Btrnett, IGthy Smith, Johr Johnson, Jerome Herr . Office Manager: y'rcki Edmrds

I W'orkbench June 1998

Adjust Bandsaw Fence to Compensatefor Blade Drift

for solutionis to compensate it by angling your fenceto match the drift. First a board rip To find this angle,draw a freehand finddrift to angle blade. of straight line on a scrapboard, parallelto the edge.\Mith the fenceout of the way,feedthe boardfreehand cut along and the line.Adjustyour infeed Evenwhen set up correctly, angleuntil the bladefollowsthe mostbandsaws havesome - a tendencyto cut more line andoffersthe leastresisbladedrift tance.Stopthe cut midway to aggressively onesideofthe blade. your bladewon'tcut throughthe board,then hold Because drift, of parallelto the fence,evenwhen the in the workpiece that position fence Clamp totable parallelto the miter gaugeslot. and shut off the saw. You'll fenceis atmatching angle. probably find the board'sedge Causes drift canbe hard to track of isn't parallelwith the miter down,but confibuting factorsmaybe gaugeslot.Ifyourfence hasan the saw'smanufacturing tolerances, moveit againstthe inconsistent bladetooth set,or uneven angleadjustment, Be awarethat differentbladesmay Woodhardness and boardandlock it in placeat that angle. tooth sharpness. drift to a greateror lesserdegree,so If you can'tadjustthe angleof your feed rate can alsohavean effect. your fenceanglewhen fence,clampa boardto the tablein its double-check Ifyour sawis set up correctlyand you changeblades. place,cantedto the requiredangle. you still get bladedrift, the simplest on Wen I resaw my bandsaw, theblade binds and cutsuneuenguida and tension corare Iy.Theblade rect,and thefenceis parallel with the so the mitergaugeslot, what's problem? lohn Yost Louisuille. KY

Removing Painted Wallpaper

l ) I tt, t,

Child-Safe Finish
E

Teeth cut i' paint : through wallpaper; and 1 butwon't damage

wallboard.

and.I'm fm buildinga cradle, Dl ^vt :.El notsurewhatfinishto use.What ihat canyou recommend isn'ttoxic? Paul Marotto IsliP Terrace,NY The simplestansweris to usea stated finish that'sspecifically "nontoxic."But that answeris a to be implyingthat if the bit misleading, finish isn't so markedthat it will be toxic. In fact,most of the finishes todayare nontoxiconcethey available cured. are completely Until it's cured,any solvent-based finish may potentially toxic.As the be finish cures,though,most or all of the solvents evaporate. lead, formerlyusedas a hardener in finishesandpaints,is now banned, so newfinishesdon'tposethat threat. You shouldbe safewith most any varnish,polyurethane, oil-based or finish, or with one that'swater-based. But for peace mind checkthe label, of then give the finish two to four weeks to curebeforeusingthe cradle.

Theformer ounersof our house paintedouerwallpaper one in How do I remoue with a it bedroom. minimum of aggrau ation? S.Iosebh TN Nashuille. Ifyou are extraordinarilylucky, papercoryou'll havestrippable
recfly adhered to a properly primed wall. In that case,you simply work a corner of the paper loose, then pull it off the wall. ffyou have plaster walls, you can scrape off the wallpaper with a sharpened,stiff-bladedbroad knife. But a scraper can wreak havoc on wallboard, so in this instance the paper will require soaking or steaming before \TorkbenchI June1998

it will budge. Yourproblemis that the paintwill blockpenefationof the mois to the ture needed loosen paper. One solutionI've found is a clever gadgetfrom Zinssercalledthe Paper Tiger.This tool hasteeth that penewithout trate the paintandwallpaper damaging walls.As you work the the tool on your walls,the teeth create thousands tiny holesthat allowthe of moistureto get behindthe paper, makingit easierto remove.(For more informationon the PaperTiger, call Zinsserat (732)469-4367.) you To loosenthe paper's adhesive, wallpaper remover canusea chemical or a steamer. Then genfly scrapeaway knife. the paperwith a wide-blade

-l

Bent Hinge Pin Keeps Doors from Swinging

A bedroomdoor in my home wants to swing closedon its own. Short ofusing a doorstop,what can I do to keep the door open? S. Fountain Roanoke.VA Curing a self-closing door is a simple matter. Begin by closing and latching the door, and removing one hinge pin. Support the pin between two blocks of scran wood and clamp another piece of scrap over one end to hold it in place. Strike the pin with a hammer, hitting it hard enough to put a slight bend in the pin (about 1/:zr). Drive the bent pin in place and it should put enough tension on the hinge to prevent the door from swinging closed on its own. If the door still swings,repeat the bending process on another hinge pin. You may also Notched block need to bend the pin a little more. pin holds in place.
Bend hinge pinslightly (about |sz").

Support
blocks

Kerosene Puts a New Spin on Dirty Guide Bearings

iuio., gurde bea'ngs are a Srrurotof my router bitshaue J^f guide bearingsthat don't turn shielded t-vpe. Unlike higherEII fpl priced sealedbearings,shielded bearfreely anymore. I keep them wi|ed off, ings have a phenolic cover that probut they catch eueryso ofien and leaae piece.Is there tects the bearings,but can let in fine a burn marh on the work dust. Try soaking the bearings in anything I can do to loosenthem up or kerosene to flush out accumulated am I looking at buying new bearings? Daue Warnick dust grime, but don't soak them for Kirkland, WA too long or you could remove too

iN l\!/l

much of the grease. Wipe the bearings with a clean cloth and let them dry thoroughly. Apply a bearing lubricant, such as Bostik brand, before you reinstall the bearings on the bits. If they still catch, replace them. Replacementbearings in a variety of sizes are availablefrom most router bit manufacturers for about 35 to S15.

!?'orkbench June1998 t

Product Information Number206

Tips & Tbchniques

Improve Shop Storagewith Overhead Pipe Clamp Holder
workshop,I In my smallbasement neverhaveenoughstorageroom. I've gottengood at finding pocketsof I usablespaceeverywhere can,but I've neverhad a good solutionfor I storinglong pipe clamps. just leaned them in a corner of the room, and more oftenthan not when I neededa clampit was at the back of the stack. and Because havecabinets I shelves filling everywall, there'sno rack. So I room for a wall-mounted a simpletwo-partclampcradesigned dle that mountsto the last openspot in my shop- the ceiling.The cradle fucks the clampsinto the unused space betweenthe joists.With each cradle,I cankeepup to nine clamps out storedconveniently of the way. I startedby driltns a seriesof holes 2x4 centered alonga 30rr-long (the spacing shownat righD.Then I is rippedthe board in half to yield two cradlehalveswith semicircular notchto esfor the clamps rest in.

in holes Drill /+"-dia. centered2x4, 1 halves. rip into then board twoequal joists 16" spaced oncenter. Designed floor for

to Mount cradles underside ofioists using 3"-long screws. drvwall

T
ltl \l-6"-i \ l'-.-\2y2',2--'/ l ; f t t--6"---|
lyr) Zyr") lZy". \ty""

3Y2" I

lll

between cradlesif the the spacing I drilled two pilot holesinto the the cradleswherethey crossed joists you needto hold clampsof differentlengths. screws.Most of and drovein 3rLlong Phillip Benson long, so I mounted my clampsare 48rr OklahomaCity, OK the cradles36r'apart.Youcanvary

Mini Disk Sander for Drill Press

HIoccasional1ybuildtoys,Christmasornaments,andsmall gift boxesthat have deeprecesses drilled in them. Most :{ hole bottomsprettyrough,but I figured ffi:i driil bit.l"uue the \ 'te7 '-:-: ,, out a way to sandthem on my drill press.

Cozy Sanding Pad

Y4"tlat washer

Va"dia,x3" wood I dowel

beer to They're designed keepcanned and sodacold,but thosefoaminsulating holders (called"cozys")work greatfor sandingconcave wood surI and drilled a pilot hole faces. usedone (with an emptycan length olzlstt-dia.dowel 1/r,, hex I cut a 3rr r nuts in the center of one end. Then I ran nuts onto the installed)to sandsomecovemolding of machinethread a l/arrhangerbolt, addeda flat washer, I madein my shop.For tighter curves,I just removethe can. end and screwed wood-threaded into the dowel. the padto the end of the dowel,put Gluea hook-andJoop a sandingdisk on it, and chuck the hanger bolt in the drill press. Keep the sanding \ pressuremoderate you can movethe so workpiecearoundunderneath. lay Geisel lnConner,WA

yourtip andmailit we'd way If youhave unique of doingsomething, like to hearfom you.Justwite down a yourname, Please include Ave., Moines, 50312. Des IA 2200 Tips to W0RKBENCH andTechniques, Grand you. or phone 28!2003, number case need reach Ifyou like,Faxusat (515) in we to and address daytime yourtip. if onthe emailusatworkbench@workbenchmag.com hternet We'llpayyou$5G$150wepublish

Y(}UR llG$ IDHS S]|ARE TIPS, AllD

t2

I W'orkbench June 1998

of C= too/center thearc

Alternate Arch Trammel

carpenter - using a framing square to draw a circle. The same technique works for arcs, using a shopbuilt trammel. wood slats, and drill a Start with a pair of thin (about V+rr) 7+rrhole near one end of each. Countersink one of the holes, insert a flat-head r/qtt-2}machine screw through it, and set the

A few issuesbackyou showedhow to draw arcsusing a slat ---- - bentwith string.I remember technique wastaughtasa I a - ---- ---

A andB = endsof thearc

other slatoverthe first. Cinchthe two togetherwith a washer andwing nut. drive two small On your workpiece, finish nailson a line (A-B)to establish the endsof the arc.Then mark the of top,/center the arc (C), and adjust the trammel"knuckle"so its inside corner restsoverthis point while the legs touchthe nailsat the arc ends. Crankthe wing nut tight, then nest insidecorner a pencilin the trammel's from and carefullywork the assembly sideto side,keepingthe trammelin contactwith both nails (A, B) asyou move.The slatlengthwill vary with the height and width of the arc, so for a safemarginI add thesetwo dimensionstogether, and cut to that length. Oruille Vittitow Dayton,OH

Save Your Back

I've got a candidate for a great shop tool. Recently, I acquired an old rolling office stool (the backless kind) secondhand from a local medical clinic. It has one of those beefy threaded posts for adjusting the seat height, and I figured I could use the screw mechanism to make a bench vise. Before I had a chance to take it apart, however, I got in the habit of using the stool around the shop. I used to spend a lot of time standing with my back bent over the work, maybe doing routing, sanding, or hand-carving. At the end of the day, I'd feel the strain in my lower back. Now I'm able to do a lot of that stuff sitting down. The wheeled base on the stool makes me instantly mobile, the seat swivels 360', and I can adjust the height to keep my back comfortable while I work. John Robinson St.Louis. MO

r4

I Workbench June 1998

Wheel Chocks Prevent Mishaps

Like a lot of home-shopwoodworkers, I l'ravea shop that must double as a garage.Fortunately,it's just large enough to hold all of my woodworking tools and two cars. But in order to get the cars in, I had to rnount my rnachineson mobile basesso I can push them agair"rst back wall for the storage,and spaceis still tight. After I pulled in once and accidentally nudged my table saw with the car's front bumper, I decided to make simple wheel chocks for each car.

Avoid Insing Your Drill Press Key

I'm forever sefting down small items, like my drill press chuck key, then losing them becausethey blend into the mess. I'd swear that I spend more time looking for that key than I do using the drill press. One day,when I got to cleaning up the chaos,I found a piece of windshield washer hose. I slid it onto one end of the key's handle,and stapledthe other end of the hose to the wall behind the drill press.Now the key is alwayswhere I need it. P Anderson Helena.MT

UxnxrsHED FrxrsHED To Ix H,rLF TIvn TIIE

lili1,1':i;
I made the parking chocks frorn plywood scrap material - a t/4tt-thick base l2rr-widsx 18rr-long, with a 12rL long piece of 4x4 screwedflush with one end. To keep the parking chocks from moving around, I attachednonskid tape to the bottom. I drilled a hole near one end of the plywood so I can hang the chocks on the wall when I have the machines out. After I figured out how far we could pull the cars into the garage,I painted marks on the floor to position a chock under the left front wheel of each car. Now there's no guesswork involved when the shop becomesa garageagain. Stren either of us pulls a car in, its left front tire runs onto the plywood and againstthe 4x4, stoppingthe car from rolling any farther forward. Joe Olsen RockwellCity. TX

*ffi*nk
Nowwoodfinishing',ffilong-lastingprotectionanda twice as fast, twice as easy Ir{UU$I;HI$ warm luster. @t with Minwax- Polyshades@. Polyshades comesin a r,ariety T h a t ' sb e c a u s e i l v s h n d e s P ofcolors,and can be usedover d c o m D l n es t a r na n o p o t y s raw wood or even previously
urethane in one. Stain to add rich color and enhance wood's natural grain, and poly.urethane for finished wood, without having to strip awaythe old finish. Polyshades. A beautifulfinish in a lot lesstime.

Sraw & PorvuRHrHANEONp IN

ffi

MakesAnd Keeps Wood Beautiful'

www.minwax.com
ol99ti Minwx All rights rwwed

@Minwu and Pollshades are registeredtradernarks.

Information Number191 Product 'Workbench I June 1998

News Events and

Woods of Hawaii Show Highlights
Woodsof Hawaiiis a showthat gives to the islands'woodworkers chance a while at displaytheir craftsmanship, the sametime serving higher goalsincreasingawareness the state's of forest indusfry, and promoting conservancyof Hawaii'snativewood species. Sponsored the HawaiiForest by Industry Association, sixth annual the showwasheld in September 1997, of and atfacted 58woodworkerswhose 132enffiesvied for top honors. Entries were judged in sevencate gories including sculpfure,musical instruments,and furniture. To help nativewoodsand increase conserve publicknowledgeof lesser-known species, rules allowedprojectsto contain no more than 10% four popular of nativewoods;koa,kamani,milo, and ohia.Thesewoodshavebeenused for generationsby native Hawaiians and,like all woods,they carry great cultural significance.In recent times, though,they'vebecomethreatened. Showorganizersencouraged using lesser-known Hawaiianspeciesand speciesintroduced to the islands.Many projectswere built with woodswe mainlanders might never dream of, suchas avocado, mango,and eucalyptus.Other evenmore obscurewoodswere usedin projectsaswell. Judgingby the enties I saw, competitionwastough, and thosewho won weredeserving of their honors. BestofShow and People's Choicehonorsfor 1997 went to John Gonczar his for beautifulround tablemadeof pheasantwood and with eucalyptus, Abowl hrned strikingkoaveneer. from Norfolk Islandpine brought Patick Kramerfirst placein Turning. And in Architecture.the awardwent to MatthewD'Avella'schestcraftedfrom mango,koa, and Queensland maple.

Into the Past - 40 YearsAgo n Workbench

Ifs beensaidthat e:rperience the bestteacher. is At , worked to make agreatmagaine even '- better.Wete spenta lot of time poring through 40yearsworth of issuesto see how the interestsof doit-yourselfers haveevolved. beenfun looking back, Ifs andwe thoughtyou'd enjoyit too. This time, we've set our sights on June of 1958, when an individualcopycost35 cents,and a six-issue subscription $2. was One practicalproject offered was a plywoodgardener's benchthat knocked down for easytransport to the garden. Another article detaileda surefire methodfor repairingdrylvall using tin foil. Apieceon elecfical safetyincluded aphoto of ayoung womantuning a radio from the bathtub- shockingindeed!

Pabhing holes a faidynewmabrial in called'5heet rccl{ waseasier youfirst filledthe gapwith tin bil. Gadening if wasmade easier with a porhbleplywmdbench, whilea racy photobrcught rcaden'atbntion elecidcal b safety.

18

\?'orkbenchI June 1998

Simple Tips Save Energr, Money

According to the United States Department of Energy (DOE), many of us could cut our energy costs by 10 to 50 percent by making just a few energy-wisehome improvements. Strile homeowners know they could decreasetheir home's energy consumption,many aren't sure what projects would be most beneficial.To help them decide,the DOE teamed with Owens Corning, establishing the Energy SaversPartnership.This project aims at helping homeowners saveenergy to reduce expenses,but its loftier goals include reducing pollution and fossil fuel usage.

Booklet Offers Siding Care Solutions

No matter what ffpe of exterior siding your house has - even if it's claimed to be "maintenance-free"- it will require some periodic attention to keep it in top condition. You may only need to clean and check for loose fasteners.Or you may have to paint, patch, and recaulk joints.

To makesidingcaresimpler, ABT BuildingProducts Corporation (ABTco)is offeringa fi:eeguide,titled Makinga House Call, that outlines procedures. basicsidingmaintenance where Pickup the freepamphlet you buy buildingmaterials, by or callingABTcoat (800)5662282.

KRAUSE

i J r so r r S r r l i l r < r Energy & lt.rrJy Irl Il<>rrre

'I

Educating homeowners is the key to achieving those goals.To that end, the partners will sponsor televised public service announcementsand seminars at home centers.They've also published a free booklet featuring over 100ways to reduce energy consumption year-round.The booklet also contains a guide to manufacturers of energy-saving products and to organizations promoting efficiency. To get a copy of the Energy Savers booklet, call the U.S. Department of Energy at (800)363-3732.

20

\Workbench I June1998

'185 Information Number Product

Does Anybody Really

Know What Time It Is?

For some people,close enough is good enough. Others, though, demand that everything be exactly dead-on.Ask the first type of person for the time of day, and you'll likely hear a generalization such as "about a quarter after ten." Ask 1.. the other, and you'll hear t\ "exactly 10:17."It's for this latfl ter kind of person that the folks at Klockit introduced the Radio Controlled Clock Movement. The radio signal that controls this clock is broadcastfrom the National Institute of Standards and Technology'satomic clock vtr in Fort Collins, Colorado.This clock sets the official national Atomic Clock thenational standard, seb time time standard and is very accu- TheNIST yean. to one every rate. And I mean accurate,as in accurate within second sixmillion correct to within one second every six million years!This standard Replacethem with fresh cells, and your clock will reset itself to the has long been used to set the time correct time. at government installationsand The only real restriction with this important facilities. movement is that you have to use a If knowing the exact time is imporwooden, paper,or plastic dial. Metal tant to you, Klockit's Radio clock dials won't work; they interfere Controlled Movement offers an with the unit's radio receiver. affordable way you can find out. The All this technology is stuffed into a movement receivesthe atomic clock movement less than 3rr-wide by signal and adjusts itself daily. In 4rllong and l/zrr-thick, which sells for addition, the movement resets itself under S30.For more information on automatically during the annual daylight savingstime changes.If the bat- the Radio Controlled Movement, call Klockit at (800)55G2548. teries run down, it's no problem.

'{{s

'i.

TrlrnAn Old EndTable IntoSomething Greatlh About HalfAn Hou,r. i, Here's How:
Step I Remove hardware all from the (knobs,etc.).In a well-ventilatedarea,strip the finish with Krylon"" OFF!Paint andVarnishStripper. Scrape off old paint/vzrnish. grit 150). Step 2 Sand usingmedium paper(120,
Wipe clean with a tack cloth. Step 3 Prime with Krylon Sandable Primen Choose a primer color based on finished color of project.

nr

with fine grit paper(220). Step 4 Sand Step 5 Ifyou're doing multiplecolors,maskoff you the areas don'twant painted. Applytwo coatsof Krylon spraypaint. (NOTE: Because Krylon'sspecial of formulation, you canapplythe second coatat anytime.)

KrylonHelpful Hint
Why use a primer? A primer is qcellent for suface preparation because it frlls nicks, scratches, and imperfections. It alm smothe the 6nish for a betier appemce, enhmces color clarity, and improves paint adhesion md long-term durability.

Free Help for Halogen I-amp Owners

Torchiere floor lamps with halogen bulbs have been tied to at least 189fires and 11 deaths since 1992.The fire hazard is due to the halogen bulb that sits exposed in a shallow bowl atop of the lamp. If the lamp is close to combustible objects,or if an object comes to rest atop the lamp, the bulb's heat can quickly start a fire. In February 1997new Underwriter's laboratories (UL) standardswere put into place that mandate the bulbs on new lamps be repositioned and/or covered by a protective guard, making them safer.But with about 40 million of the oldstyle lamps still in use, concerns about halogen bulb safety remain. Ifyou have an old-style torchiere fixture, you can get a free bulb guard through a program set up by the Consumer Product SafetyCommissionand lamp manufacturers. To find out where to get a guard, call (800) 985-2220.

f'or other great P/ojett ideas, get a 3GMinute MakeoDer boohlet at a retailer near you or call H00-4-KRYLON. Look for other added-ralue offers and our 30-Mirtute Maheore/ contest details.

@ 1998 Sherwih-Williams Diuenifed Brands, Inc.

Product lnformation Number186

'1

Tool Garden Shed

that Euerkearjoke routines 'You knowyou'reold openwith wken. . ."? I usedto tkink tkev I koweuer, were fwnny.Today, It's arn not arnused. not just that rny legswentsoutk whenI
It's the warm weather that's got me worried. Back in rny college days, summer rneantbiking to the beach to gawk at the, er, scenery. NowadaysI get a whiff of balmy air and start thinking about landscap ing, or building somethingoutside. I'm not sure how this happened. Of course,a lot of peopleget the outdoor bug when the sun starts tried to play soccer after a 10-year As layoff, or that my waistline is taking making longer appearances. if to prove the point, the results of our on real estate more steadily than a glacier in an ice age. No, this is reader survey came in with a clear leader in the projects-wantedcate much more serious. I Workbench June1998 gory - a large number ofyou hope to build a tool storageshed. The timing couldn't have been 'l-he staff at Garden Gate, better. us had askecl our sisterpublication, to build a shed for their garden tools at the Worhbench house.They help us out with the landscaping there, so we --were happy to oblige.

26

Plaffom Construction View

panels Floor (7+" pressurc-freated plyu,ood)

x g6"W OVERAIISIZE:dq"H x 120"1

N0TE: Plywood seams land joisb. over

joist Floor

(pressurc-treated ,x4,93" long)

(pressure-troatd 2x4, long) 120"

NOTE: Joisb Rlm form sldes platturm of frame assombly, Sklrls (prcssure-teated 4x4, 120" long)

two16d
galvanized nails Intooach end. Jolst

Besides, they said my budding interest in all things green just meansthat I'm awfully mature for my (tender) age. Hard to say no when they put it thatway. Aside from the satisfaction of building the shedyourself,this pro ject offers plenty of bonuses- a sfong frame, good ventilation, a built-in workbench, and a loft to boost your storage space.Best of all, ifs simpleto build, and teaches skills you c:m use elsewhere.

l.ofng the Grcundwork

the shed (Stringing Guidelines). Next, set two stakes8 ft apart and 1 ft. behind that line (at corners A and B), wrap the sbing around one and bring it forward to rnark a side wall from B to C. Measurea 6&10 triangle (to adjust each corner for square) as you drive and tie off additionalstakesto mark the other walls of the shed. Nexf set the concretepadsin place(Figure 1). The padsmust sit squarelyunder the centerofeach skid andbe level with each other so the skids are aligned properly @igure 2).

Any tianglewltr sldes that yleld 3:4:5 wlllguarantee a rato a right angle corner.

/\

Floor optionsfor a shedcaninclude anything from a concreteslab to a gravel bed rimmed by landscape timbers.We opted for a wood platform. The plafform frame attaches to 4x4 pressuretreated skids, so the shed can be moved with help from a truck, and the skids rest on nine 12rrconcrete pads (Plaform C,onstruction View). We startedby using nylon line to establishguidelinesfor the shed's pads footprint To do this, drivetwo wood Poaition concrcte sothqyrll the be stakes 10 ft. apart and tie a line cenbrcd diructly under skids. nine the All betweenthem to mark the rear of pads must level each be wi[r offier.

Prcssupteabd 4x4's, a genercus with 45"bwelat each senaasskids. end, Use theguideline sfrings poaition b $em. \Torkbench lune 1998 r

27

you After ma* thelayout onthetworimjoisb(indicating Align frame skids, lines the and check square, fasten fur and them thelocation each joist), theplatfurm together. together. screw plywood of floor nail frame Then flooilng thejoistplatform. the to Go aheadand set the skids right diagonal measurements of the to the guideline strings, but don't frame and adjust it until both are take pains tweaking their exact equal,indicatinga squareassemplacement right now.You'llbe able bly.Align the edgesof the skidsand to makeminor adjustments you frame,then screwor toenailthem as addthe floor framinganddecking. togetherfrom the inside of the rim To preventwater damageto the joists.Don'tforgetto fasten centhe shedbase,we usedpressuretreat- ter skid in place. ed stockthroughoutthis assembly. T\e3/tn plywoodflooringcomes Though they might seem under- next. The plywood's large square sized,the 2x4 floor joists spanless cornerswill help you doublecheck than 4 ft. and are spacedat 12tton- the accuracy your frame,so use of givingus plentyof support. them to align everything,then fas center, You'll need a pair of 1Gft.2x4's ten the panels with 1s7rtt-1ong exte for the rim joists- the boardsthat rior deck screws (Figure 4'). mountalongthe two outsideskids. Working from front to back, install You nail through these into the the two full sheets first, then the endsof the floorjoists,creating the half-sheet.Each of the two seams plafform frame (Figure 3). When shouldland over a joist so that all all the joists arenailedin place,take plywoodedgesare supported. Building the Woll Fromes Though the consfuction methods are still simple,the wall framingis a bit more complexthan that of the plafform. Therearelet-inbraces, or girts, that strengthen sides(see the Notchingfor the Grrfs), and you havedoor andwindowopenings in front and rear walls (Framing the Construction View). Here we switched to regular fir framing lumber, using the deck as our work plafform as we nailedthe floor and wall plates to the studs (Figure 5). We set the girts in, securedthem with a single nail at eachend stud,then checked diago nals to get the frame square (Figure 6). When it was right, we nailedthe girts twice at eachstud.

Notching ffieGirb:Gang-Cutting Time for Saves

To make our shed design really solid and provide a few more options for siding material, we added some framing details you won't find in prefab sheds. We used 4x4 corner posts for strength, and we let in horizontal 1x4 braces (called girts) along each side wall. In the days when barns and other buildings got board-

and-battensiding, these girts provideda nailing base and helped the walls resist racking from wind and other forces..Whateverthe siding, though, the girts must lie flush with the frame. To accomplishthis, we notchedthe studs and corner posts using a technique called "gang-cutting."

Align clamp and bgether stuGandpoeb With$e soringcubdone, bulk the Clean nibs ofterhigh he the of and wih up spob a (bevel hand plane. have goacrcss grain, br one frame, wall Madr layout br he lins wasbwill brcak loose. a chisel Use You b $e notches, malaa sedes l+'deepcub. up)to domost fte cleadng ften of of work. butmlnor barcd won't aftc'tthejoinb.

28

'Workbench r Tune1998

Framing Construction View

Header Cross-Sections
Front panel loft

platform x 96"Wx120"1(including assembly) 0VERALL SIZE:91%"H

End-wall plate top (2x4 96"long) fir, (Ends extend over side wall,) Side-wall plate top (2(4fir,,113" long)
-\=Z plate Slde-wall

(?r..4fri,120"

Giilpine, (1x4 120" long)

post Corner (4x4 flr,797z" long)

plate End-wall bottom (2x4 fir,89" long) (Cut doorway fiom opening after lsInplace.) wall

Wall stud (2x4tir,7!/2"longl *Rough openlng forAndersen window. slzed A41 (Andersen 800-426-4261 Corp., )

plate Side-wall bottom (2x4 120" fi6 long)

Panel siding 7y.16', x8iflA,, x4B',

(Louisiana-Pacif ic Corp., 800-648-6893)

Window Framing Detail

plathmas Use shed fora work he floor youbuild walls. notched of the The edges thestuds posts and should up. face

Securc gitbwitha single ateach the nail end, measurc frame then the diagonals. you'rc When squarcd nailinthe$ft. up,
'Workbench I June 1998

with Tiewallcorners toPPlates

feature are Double plates a standard in top - theextra 2x4layer "stick-frame" construction Inour together. case, corners helps thewall tie of the meant extending topplates thefront that nail end rear 3Vz" and walls ateach sowecould plates. wall them the through into side
of Nailtop plates endwalls

Roising the Wqlls eachwall frame and set Assemble it aside until they're all ready to install.Then begin the installation by screwingone side wall to the floor and nailing a brace at the front end to steadyit (Figure 7).

Next, raise the rear wall so you can get one corner locked in and plumb the walls together. We nailed up another temporary 2x4 brace to hold the corner plumb, then we raised the other side wall (Figure 8). Finally, we pulled the brace off the front end and set the front wall in place (Figure 9). (If you want, you can leave the floor plate intact at the doorway opening until after this wall is secured.) \Mhatever final adjustments are required to get each wall standing straight and plumb, make them now. Once the siding panels start going up, you won't be able to budge the walls. As you finish nailing the wall corners, check the alignment of the top plates. These are extra 2x4's nailed onto the wall plates. They add strength to support the roof, and overlap to tie the corners together securely (Pro Tip).

loft Storoge If you want to equip your shed with the built-in storageloft, now is the time to do it. Our designhas room for a 4-ft.loft plafformat the rear, a 4-ft. open bay for access, and another2-ft.platformup front. Using 2x8's for the loft beams allowedus to notch their ends to fit under the top and wall platesof the side walls (Figure 1O). This made the top edge of each beam flush with the top of the walls,and still kept the bottom edgesout of rangefor mostfolks. head-banging Although the shed is a tull 8 ft. wide, the loft plywood has to be cut a little short so it won't interfere with the lower edges of the 86rr We rafters. cut our panels long, a then centered notchin the edges that landedon top of the front and rear walls - leavingroom for the ridge posts still to come (I-oft Installation Detail).

.T I mil t 'I Tt E!, ;TI t nl

->
t:'--'.-.'.-

to wallscrewed thefloorandheldbya temporary Withoneside corners. wall,thennailtheplate the set brace, andplumb rear

perimeter youraise walls' the as yourwayaround shed the Work goes up. the stay should untilafter siding Most thebraces of

it' raising then to Wefustened top plate thefrontwallbefore the of ends nailed extended to thewallplates thesidewalls. the

are so Notch loftbeams thetopedges flushwiththewalls' the thenaddfrontbeam. for Settwo beams the rearloft,skipa stud,

30

'N7'orkbench I June 1998

Ioft Installation Detail

Thesenotcheslet you keep the edgeof eachloft panelrestingon a top plate. Supportfrom the front andrear walls is critical - the panels don't reachto the sidewalls. The roof framing isn't far off at this stage, andonceit's doneyou'll haveno room to maneuver loft the plywoodinto position,so take care of that stepnow (FigUre I 1). Just makesurethe panelsare centered alongthe endwalls,sothe notches you are positioned correctly for the The plyurood to goonbeforc getto thercof loft has framing, cutourpanels We 85" posb, scrcwed in place. ridge posts. The other edge of long, notched outboard fortheridge the edges then them each panel should sit squarely over a support beam but not extendpastit. Screwthe panelsto the 2x8 beamsso they can't shift. Going for Cover The siding option you choosefor your shedis just that - an option. Youmaydecideto matchmaterials on your home,or you may haveto complywith designrestrictionsin a plannedcommunity. In any event, this shed design offers you the flexibility to do that. Cedar shingles will require sup port sheathing underneath, and I'd recommend samefor vinyl the siding. Just about anything else prcvided panels weinsblled cango on right overthe studs. A temporary board ledger support thesiding for whib Panelized siding offers a mix of them. bottom ofthesiding The edge extends below topedge theskids. the of %" strength and economy, and thafs what we chose. Louisiana-Pacific To make the installationeasier, Corp. (800-648-6893) recently we snapped chalk line 3/lrrbelow a introduced an engineeredwood the top edge of the outsideskids product, EZ Panel, designedfor and screweda support ledger in utility buildingsand otherlow-cost place.We restedthe panelson the applications. Like T-111 plywood ledger, lined them up with our siding, its exterior face has studs,andfastened sidingwith the groovesand a woodgrain texture, 6d galvanized nails (Figure f2). but EZ Panel comes preprimed The cornerswill be coveredlater and is a compressed wood/resin with trim battens,so don't worry composite, a plywood. clos- aboutlappingor joining them.Just Markthewindow not It's cornen drilling by small er to orientedstrandboard,but it's mark and cut out the windowand guide holes fiom inside shed, the thenlay denserand has lappededges. (Figure 13). door openings outandjigsaw cutout thesiding. the in
W'orkbench Tune1998 r

3r

Ridge shingles (Cut thrce-hbs.) fiom

Ridge beam (2x6fir, 12ft. long)

Ridge vent plastic, (Molded three/l8" lengffis)

Flyrafbr (2x4fir; no bid's-mouth)

Metal edge rake (lnshll felt) over post Bidge (2x4 ffr)

rafter Common (a(4flr; see Rafter Elevations)

Rear soffitpanel* Rake boad (lx6cedar)

Roof Construction View

Front sotft panel*.

ofia siding matedal.

Rafter Elevations
NOTE: frta pattern Test rafter bsfore cuttngo$ers.

Bird's Mouth Detail

V

Soat cut Plumb cut

Keep rhe Roof Simple

Becauseit introduces angled cuts and geometry, roof framing often leavesfledgling carpentersfeeling overwhelmed. This is especially true of complex intersecting roofs with multiple angles and planes. We chose one of the simplestroof types - the gable - to keep this part of the project manageable (Roof Construction View.) A gable roof has a single ridge and two sloping faces pitched at W'orkbenchTune r 1998

Even for common rafters like these, the calculations for the bird'smouth notch and rafter tail take some explaining. But rather than bog you down in theory, wete provideda pattern to use for layout (Rafter Elevations). If you really want to learn the art and scienceof roof building, you'll need a full-length text on framing. Veteranframers usually test-fit a pair of rafters before they cut the others, and we did the same.With equal angles. The roof's slope is the bird'smouths seated on the describedin terms of rise over run top plates, the upper ends of the - rise denotes the vertical dis rafters shouldextendalmostto the tancefrom the top plate to the top center of the ridgeline, leaving a of the ridge, and run denotesthe gapjust wide enoughfor the ridge horizontal distance from the out- beam- in our case1Vzrr. side of the wall to the centerline of Don't be afraid to deviatea little the ridge. To keep the calculation fromthe measurements wete pro method standard,the unit of run is vided - slight variations in your always12rr. Our shed roof is built wall framing may require it. Once to a 7-n-12 slope,which meansit you're happywith the test fit, mark rises 7rrfor every 12rr horizontal your "pattern" rafter and use it to of distance. lay out the rest (Figure 14).
Allow " vqntgap 1 on each ofddge side beam.

32

Testfit oneor two raftento getthe dimensions thenusethe"pattern" right, rafter do layout to marking thercst. on

Clamp raftentogether gang-cut the to the 30' plumb forthebird's-mouth. a cut Use jig sawfor theseatcub, oneat a time.

Install fint rafters theends theshed, the at of fastening gap themto thetop plates. center at thetop measures The 1V2", room accommodate 2x5 ridge enough to our beam.

ZFlashing Detail I ''l'nn I

Paint I this I

u.p.?r' \l

"ql

Z-flashing Lower siding

you Theloftmakes niceworkplatform installing ridge a for the beam. After install common the rafters, the add posb,gable Thebeam's endoverhangs shed 18",the backby 6". ridge front the by stlub, andthe upper siding. with a jig saw or hand saw. Install the end rafters first, fastening through the bird's-mouth into the top plate (Figure 16). When both pairs are up, set the ridge beam in place with the overhang at each end - 18rr at the front, 6rrrear - and fasten the top ends ofthe rafters (Figure 17). Mount the rest of the rafters the same way, each positioned over a stud in the wall. When they're all in, cut and install the ridge posts and struts (Figure 18). Then add the rest of the siding to fiIl in the triangular space at the top of the front and rear walls. Because an unprotected butt joint between the upper and lower panels would certainly allow water penetration, we used metal flashing here to create a much more weatherproof lap joint (Z-Flashing Detail). To finish the roof frame, you have to cut and install the 1x6 (for groove thesoffitpanels) cedar fascia boards. We used a Cutan angled in thefascia, thennailit to the rafter tails. table saw to cut an angled groove Thefly raftencanthenbenailed place. for the soffit material, then nailed in

Fifting the Rofters

The plumbcutsat the endsof each rafter will haveto be madeone or two at a time, but like the girt notches, bird's-mouths be the can gang-cutto save time - at least one of the cuts can be. Clamp all but the four fly rafterstogetherbottomedgesup and endsaligned - and use a circular sawto make the 30' cut across the batch (Figure 15). The angle for the seat cuts is too sharp for this method, so cut these individually

the fascia to the tail ends of the main and fly rafters (Figure l9). The 1x6 caps at the front and rear edges - called rake boards - can wait for now. Next, nail the roof sheathing in place (Figure 2O). Keep the end joints staggered and landing over rafters, and on each side leave a |r gap between the plpvood sheathing and the ridge beam. This space will allow air from inside the shed to circulate

up through the

Youcannailthesheathing down soon the roof as as frame is complete. at thebottom Start edge, offset end and the joinb of the lower upper panels youworkup. and as Y/orkbench Tune1998 I 33

Working on the Derqils The structuralwork on the shedis wrapped up at this stage, but a number of details remain. Aside from the obviousneedfor roofing and an entry door,we still havethe soffit panels,vents, window, and trim to install. If you'll recall, we left the plyaboutan inch woodroof sheathing grcove in thefascia boards shy on each side of the ridge The angled cut panels. prcvides The beam.Thesegapswill allowwarm support thesoffit fur against siding. air to rise up through the ridge the bp edges snugly rcst vent so the shed doesn'tturn into on a sauna a hotAugustafternoon, but they can't work right without a sourcefor incomingair, which we providedvia soffit vents. First, we cut soffit panels from the EZ Panel siding and fitted them into the groovesin our fascia boards (Figure 21). We slid the center sectionsin from the ends, to then cut andfitted longerpanels (between coverthe front and rear roof overpanels Drill holes thesoffit 2" in venb. Test hangs.No trim is requiredexcept therafbrs) house soffit b the fit a vent scrap in before drilling holes. the 1x6 rake boards at the gable the ends.You caninstallthosenow. Soffit vents come in various types and sizes,but we opted for simplemetal onesthat just pressfit into place.Installationrequired hole, which we only a 2rr-diameter hole saw drilled with an adjustable (Figure 22). T\e size of these vents can vary slighfly, so try a test run with your hole saw (in scrap)to makesurethe fit is snug enough to keep the vent from Weused self-rimming venb, soffit fitted out withscrcen thatkeeps insecb. droppingout. To install,just press mesh press sothefit has besnug. a vent in eachhole (Figure 23). They in, to

Ideally,the total surfaceareafor intake and exhaust vents should be aboutequal.This is more critical,in a house;for a projectfke this the ratio is lessimportant.We used one vent per rafter bay on eachside,for a total of 10. If necessary, window in the the rear wall of the shed can make up for any shortageof vent area.We installedan AndersenA41 awning window in our shed (Figure 24). glassand vinyl-clad The dual-pane but exterior are nice features, the bonus is really the awningdesign itself. An awning window swings out at the bottom,so if you leaveit open deliberatelyfor a little extra ventilation,or just forget to crank it closed,you don't haveto worry about the shed interior and contents getting soakedfrom a summer thunderstorm. Speoking of Roinfoll Unlessyou live in a desertclimate, getting the roof watertight should be your next priority. Wete provided a separatesection on the shinbasicsof roofingwith asphalt gles (seeA RoofingPrimer), but you needto take careof sometrim detailsbeforeyou start that. If you've ever filled a glass to overflowing with water, you may havenoticedthat the liquid forms higher a smalldomethat'sactually than the glass rim. This happens waterhas surfacetension because that causesit to cling to objects rather than flow freely off of them.

window in Afterwe painted siding, installed awning the we our with the rcarwall.Thenailing flange becovercd trim later. will

water runoff away fiom Aluminum edge drip flashing keep will beforc fultgoes the on. thewood fascia. it to thesheathing Nail

34

'Workbench I Tune1998

On sloped or vertical surfaces, a sharp bottom edge will overcome the tension and let the water fall free, and that's what you need to accomplish at the roof edge. Fortunately, the fix is quick and inexpensive. Aluminum flashing called "drip edge" extends the roof plane past the fascia boards and has that sharp edge built in. You just nail it to the roof sheathing at the lower edge (Figure 25). Some suppliers sell plastic drip edge, which works the same way.

The other vulnerable areas of the shed include the window and door openings and the corners. Trim boardsandcaulkinghelp out here. Our Andersenawning window had a full-perimeternailing flange, so after we installed and fastened we nailed1x cedartrim it over the flange (Figure 26\. lf you're using a different accent paintcolorlike we did, I'd suggest ing (or staining) the cedar trim beforeyou installit. It's fasterand To helpseal window, applied the we caulk the back to makesfor lesscleanup work. of thecedar before trim nailing to thesiding. it

A Roofing Primer: Basics Three-Tab The of Asphalt Shingles

Water flows downhill. For seasoned roofers who take t h e i r c r a f t s e r i o u s l y a n d b e g i n n e r ss t i l l t r y i n g t o f i g u r e it all out, these three words represent the physics they must not forget. Everything else is just a footnote. All successful roofing techniques work by directing the flow of water rather than trying to stop it. A sloped roof plane is an obvious start, but that's not enough. You still need a watertight surface, and since it isn't practical to cover roofs with large one-piece shields, you have to use layers of smaller pieces. Every intersection is a potential leak, though. The key is arranging each new layer to overlap the one below, so water follows its natural path down. After the sheathing and dripedge go on, staple on a layer of 15-lb. or 3O-lb. felt, a heavy asphalt-impregnated paper. Start at the drip edge and work up, overlapping each course. Cover the ends with metal rake edge. A starter course of shingles is next. You make these by cutting the tabs off full shingles and nailing on just the top portion. A course of full shingles goes directly over the starters, with the end joints staggered 6", an offset that is repeated with each new course. C o m m o n a s p h a l t s h i n g l e st y p i c a l l y m e a s u r e L 2 " I a l l by 36" wide and have two partial slits that divide the lower half into three "tabs". Once the starter and first full course are down, new layers cover about 7" of the shingles below, leaving a 5" reveal. The offset joints prevent water from getting underneath the shingles. To cover the ridge, cut shingles at the slits to get three square tabs, and nail them over the vent.

Builde/s isthefirt layer protection A starter felt of course makes a double of for layer br thesheathing. thedripedge Cover and shingles thebottom ofthercof. at edge Cut work Add flashing theends. up, rake at thebbsoffregular shinglesmake to these.

Cutting Shingles
here Cut to make starter shingles.

Gut here make to ridge shingles.

Offset end the joinbofeach coune 6'fiom After nailing a ridge cutsome on vent, "thrce theone below. can thercmnanb bbs' inb l2"-squarc You use shingles theridge, for pieces fiomcutshingles starter as above. lnstall a 5orcveal, asontheslope. with same
\Torkbench Tune1998 r

35

Door ond Trim Wrop ir Up This shed is definitely a project most people want to build in steps rather than all at once. By the time I got the roof shingled, though, I was like a horse headed back to a warm stable - determined to get home with no major delays. It was mid-afternoon on a Saturday, and I figured I could cut and install the corner trim, then build the door before the weekend was over (see Adding A Door). Install the battens together tilm thecornen. butt to Cedar To keep the look balanced, the narrow battens theside on walls. widetrimontheends. the cedar battens for the shed's corners have to be ripped to two different widths - unless you want to bevel the rnating edges at a 45' angle, an unnecessary complication. On long stock like this, butt joints are much easier. Rough-sawn 1x cedar typically measures abottT/stt thick, so you just have to deduct that from the width of one batten. In our case, we wanted a 3rrreveal, so the first batten at each corner was cut 27srl wide and nailed to the side wall, face trim Mark hinge the locations theinside of thedoor on plate. mortise. flush with the siding on the end andtrace around hinge a Then a shallow rout

WhatYou'IlNeed
Lumber o (g) 3/arrx 8ft pressure 4ftx teatedpineplywood o (2) s/strx 8ftACXfiror 4ft.x pineplywood o (12)1/2tt 4 ft. x 8 ft. siding x r (3) 10ft.pressurefeated 4x4s r (3) 10ft.pressurefeated 2x4s o (11)8ft. pressureffeated 2x4s o (4) 8 ft. fir 4x4posts o (6) 10ft. fir 2x4's . (36)8 ft. fir 2x4's o (8) 12ft fir 2x4's . (3) 8 ft.2x8's o (2) 12ft. fir 2x6's . (20)8ft lx4cedar . (4) 12ft. 1x6cedar o (10)8ft. lx6tongueandgroovecedar (FINISHES: gals.solidcolor 2 stainfor siding 1 ql solidcolor stainfor trim.) Hardware o (9) concrete pads(2rrthick) r (4) T:hinges (min.4rrlong) r (2) slidebolts(min.3rrlong) o (1) door/satelatch r (g) lbs.6dgalvanized nails r (10)lbs. 16dgalvanized nails o (6) lbs.1%rr roofing nails o (2) lengths(10ft.) Z-flashing o (3) lengths(10ft.) drip edge r @) lengths(10ft.) rakeedge r (1) roll 15#or 30#builde/s felt r (6) bundles shingles asphalt o (3) lengths(4ft ) ridgevent r (10)2rr-dia. vents soffit r (3) lbs.#8" 21/ztt screws deck o (2) lbs.#8" lslarr deckscrews . (1) lb. #6" lt/t't galv. screws r (l) Andersen awning A41 (Modifuframingif using window. anothersizeWe window.) /

wall. The secondbatten, measuring 3rrwide, finishesthe corner (Figure 27). Note the different cuts on the top end of eachbatten. The narrow battens,installed on the side walls, have the top end 30' bevel-cut to matchthe slopeof the eave.The full-width battens, installed on the front and rear walls,get a 30' miter cut to match. The doorway trim is almost as but straighfforward, it hasto go on We after the door is installed. surthe face-mounted door hinges to of andfor reasons the shedsiding, both aestheticsand security,we wanted to concealthem with the trim. We routed two shallowmortises in the back of each vertical door casingso it would nest over the hinge plates (Figure 28). Iayout the mortises by marking the hinge locations and tracing around the plate. Cut the bottom ends of the two long vertical casings square,and all the other trim ends at 22r/z', then nail them in place(Figure 29). We'realways afterextrafeatures that make a projectbetter,and we had a few in mind evenbeforewe finished building the shed (see Accessories page38). on Shed S&ether or not you decide to add thesecustomtouchesto your shed, you'll still have room for almost any outdoor power equipof ment,plus an entirearsenal gardening tools. Storage problems rarely get solved for good, but here'sto stemmingthe tide.tffi-

pockeb over hinges. nest the Therouted of tilm pi*e al22lz" Cuttheends each to tum the45ocornen around door. the

36

\Torkbencht Tune1998

The size and style of your shed door can vary according to what has to get through it. The dimensions we chose allow a lawn tractor with a 48" mowing deck to enter and exit comfortably. At nearly 60" wide, however, a single door would have been heavy and unstable. By using double doors made of 1x6 tongue-and-groove cedar, we kept the weight manageable. Start by ripping the grooved edge off of two boards. Use one as the starter board for the first door. lining up the remaining slats by nesting the tongues and grooves together. Lightly clamp the panel together (face down), sight along the assembly to check flatness, then screw the Z-brace pieces to the backs of the tongue-and-groove boards. Assemble the second door the same way. Trimming to fit involves cutting off the 45" corner at the top and routing a clearance rabbet along the bottom. You can plane the inside edges to final width after both doors are hung.

Mount the hingeson the front face of each door, over the brace locationsso the screws have more to grab. Fasten the short leg of the hinge to the siding, then cover it with cedar trim.

Z-braces (1x4 ceda0 Astragal (1x2 cedar) Door slats (lx6tongue groove & cedar) (1x4 Door casing cedar)

horizontal diagonal Scribe template thetop a from Scrcw and fiame, use then il braces each to bngue-and- ofthedoor glorve to layoutand thedoon. cut cedar panel. door

added security, substiwe A wide, shallow rabbet allows For caniage for bolt thebottom edges thedoon tubda V+' of of screws. to close against shed the floor. one thehinge'plate

(or Use shim anartra a hinge Wenailed cedar stock 1x2 in A narrcw wood strip,called an plab) crcate Va'&p place a door gap. for stopmolding. astragal, to a bddges door the It alsohelps keep insectout. Fasten b the left-hand it arcund door each edge. door.

Theleft-hand geb slide door (inset); bolbtopandbottom gebthe labh. therightdoor I W'orkbench June 1998

37

ShedAccessories
x 0VERALL SIZE:36"H24"0x g5"L

Built-in Workbench

Backsplash
fi495" long)

\\.

N0TE: Fasten frameto wallstudswith2/2" deckscrews.

,*? Notch Detail

If buildinsthegarden shed We started with a built-in workwall. your appetite owtdoorbench,installedat the rearbring Of nhets for course it's possiblejust to in you woodworking, don'thaue a freestanding bench, but this approach gives you the work to stopthere. Oneof the face without really sacrificing surthe rewards theprojectis the floor spacebelow. of added conuenience it prouides The support frame for the bench

Note that the front rail extends 3rrbeyond each end of the frame. This allowed us to anchor it to studs in the shed side walls. We screwed the back rail of the frame to studsin the rear wal-. The optional center brace can beef up the bench for heavy loads. borrows the constructionmethods The ply'wood top came from the for working around the yard, and used to frame the shed walls, with half-sheetwe had leftover from the you can make the most of that a few minor differences. Use the front loft panel. We extended the virtue by adding a few accessories. dimensions given for reference, plywood into the stud bays by cutThere's certainly room for but measureyour shedjust in case ting notches near the front corhooks, shelves, and other hard- your wall framing varies. We ners so we could drop it behind ware to hang rakes, hoses, and nailed the stock together just like the first wall stud. A 1x4 "backother seasonal tools, but we studs and wall plates, but used a splash" - added to keep small focused first on making the shed 2xG for the front rail to make sure items from dropping off behind more functional and accessible. the bench was sturdy enough. the bench - completesthe top. \il/orkbench I June 1998

38

Removable Ramp
x x 0VERALL 101/z"H60"W 48"1 SIZE:

Wheel Assembly Detail

/' Rear support rail

(pressure-treated 2x4, long) 57"

planks Deck pressure(s/4x6 treated bullnose long) decking,60"

<l

z.z I
b4_

(Cut pressure-V from treated stock.) 2x8

Lawn mower wheel (6" dia., bore, /2" - 2" wideat hub)

Axle block

Nylon locking 72"x 13tpi)

/^ / * \ l
/2" flat washey'

t
l

/2" x 6" hex-head' axlebolt lRamp stringer (cutfrompressure-treated 2x10; finished length 48")

#6x 1%"deck screw frontplank frombelow) Oosecure

Handle Detail
50" F

Stringer Detail

(pressure-trcaled Wheel housing 2x4,/ brace long, with10'top bevel) -, 8Y4"

22"

Axle tslock Detail

/2" bore ,0r.,,

Cutout for 2x4 ledger

lno

J
48" 473/a"

,r,,

\ tp' cut \./

F

30"

+l

Joist Detail
provides support for the inboard end of each axle bolt, and a short 2x4 brace bridges each wheel pocket. The rest of the ramp structure includes two support runners plus a 2x4 rail that helps tie the back end of the ramp together. The ramp surface consists of pressure-treated t'/a decking. The front plank gets handle cutouts and has its leading edge fastened from underneath, but the rest we simply cut to length and screwed down to the frame.tEEilVorkbench t June 1998

The other accessorywe built a wood ramp - is a must for getting a wheelbarrow lawn tractor, or other large rolling item in and out of the shed. Like the skids and the shed platform, the ramp sits at ground level and will get plen[' wet, so we built it out of pressuretreated lumber. The ramp must be stout enough to support healy loads, a requirement that makes it heavy as well. No big deal if it stays put, but any trimming and mowing around the

shed will be easier if the ramp is portable.There's too much weight and bulk there to carry, however, so we fitted the ramp with wheels. We cut the ramp stringers from a length of 2x10, taking a healthy 45' cut at the lower back corners. This alone makesthe ramp easier to drag away from the shed, but it doesn'thelp when it's time to push it back in place.A pair of 6rrlawn mower wheels takes care of that. An axle block, cut with the same 45' relief angle as the stringers,

39

MbrkCenter Garden
Youcouldsaythatgardening is The best part of the cabinet not mystrong suit. In fact, I design is the dropfront door. By making it with slats and leaving receiae regularuisits The gapsbetweeneachslat,any spilled from Society thePreuention wateror housecleaning,can even of a quick soilfallsright through.For for I Crueltyto Plants.But I keep hose off the door when I'm done.
ptugging away at it, hoping that
some day at least one of my thumbsturns a little green. Despite my lack of skill with plants,I can'tresistapplying many of the sameorganizatipnal habitsto my gardeningtools and supplies that I usein my woodshop.You've alreadyseenthe ToolStorage Shed we built to store yard and garden (page equipment 26).Now,to complementthe shed,I'vebuiltthis garden work centerto hang from the shed's wall. Keeping frequently usedtoolsandsupplies within easy reach of the gardenis convenient, and allows me to enjoy working outsideon sunnvsummerdavs. 40 lVorkbenchTune r 1998

Building the Corcqse Startby cuttingthe top, bottom,

and side panels to size, then rabbet the side panels to receive the top and bottom (Garden Work Center Construction View). Since my cedar stock was 7/attthick,I Thebevelededsesoftheslatskeep had to jockey my usual rain water from getting in the cabi- rabbet cutting setup a bit - the net when the door is closed. widest dado my set cuts is 13/re". Even though I built the work To get a wider cut, I installed the center for gardening, it's adapt- blade and positioned the fence for able to other uses. With a solid a 7/stt-wide cut. Then, using the miter gauge for door instead of slats, for example, I could use it for support, I made a passwith the end storing automotive supplies. Hardwood and fancy joinofthe stock bearery could also dress up this ing against the design, but for use outside, keeping the construction . simple is essential. Using rough-sawn cedar and rabbet joinery made the work center easy to build, and deck screws provided plenty of strength at the joints.

Garden Work Center Construction View

0VERALL x SIZE:9"D 761/a"W183ft"H x
hook Gate eye

-==
f,l Double-loop chain 22"-long Dividers 7/a" x7%,, x17,, panel Bottom
VB" x75Y4" x8" Va"x3Y2"x743/e"

6" strap hinge

panel Side 7/a" x183/t" x8" Slat 77s" x3Yz"x74YB"

$-----.ate
fence (Figure 1). To removethe remainingsliverof wood,I just ran the stock over the blade a second time after pulling the stock away from the fencea tad. OnceyouVe cut all the rabbets, hold the top panel in position against the side panels and drill pilot countersunk s/szt|-diameter holes into the rabbetjoints. Note: makesure the top panelsticksout 1rr in front of the side panels. glue in the Spreadexterior-grade rabbets$ou canuse a water-resistant yellow glue or polyurethane

hook
2"-long

glue) anddrivein the deckscrews. Then do the samefor the bottom panelinstallation. Next, cut the hang rail to fit into the carcase. snugfit helps square A up the box (Figure 2). Dry fit the rail and check the carcase for pilot square, then drill countersunk holesinto the side panelsand top. Removethe hang rail and spread glue on its top edge and ends before driving the screws.This rail will supportthe work center,soyou wantgoodsfong joints here.
Dry hang fit railtoassembled carcase, measure then diagonals

WhatYou'llNeed
Lumber (40)linealfeet of 1x12rough cedar Ilardware (36)#8x 2rrflat-head woodscrews (36)#8x lVlrr flat-head woodscrews (4) L/z"r ilhr screweyes (3) 6usfaphinges (2) #3 doubleloop chain,24rr-long (1) 2rrgatehook-and-eye latch (12)adjustable shelfpins

hang with rail #8x 2" screws through and top

Thelt"-widerabbeb thesidepanels in rcquirc passes a dado two over blade oneagainst funce, other the the offset.

glue Assemble bp, botbm,andsidepanels the using exbdor-grade and#8 x 2" deck scrcws. Then measure diagonally acrcss carcase check squarc, insbllthe the b for and hang (besurcb glueandscrew b thesidepanels toppanel). rail it and \TorkbenchlJune 1998

4r

Divider Detail

f
3Y2" f
It 7/e" U-

.T v ' T t\ .rl
^) "rL 4 l 5"
lq 1'!/

7%"

The dividers besquare thetopandbottom, fit snugly must to and A pegboard template simplifies drilling the pilot %"-dia, 3/s"-deep support pin around hang Check thisbefore rail. all x the drilling countersunk shelf holes through top,bottom, rail,anddriving x 2" screws. holes. a stop the and #8 Use collar insurance. for

Installing the dividers splits the carcaseinto three equal compartments.They also add strength and, with the addition of r/,'tr-41orn"1."t holes,acceptthe shelf support pins that hold the adjustableshelves. Measurethe inside height of the carcaseto cleterminethe length of the dividers. 1'ake your measurement next to a siclepanel, in casc the bottom panel is bowecla little. Cut two clividers to length ancl Toripbevels, your tilt table blade and theripfence away theblade. saw 45" set 33/+" from notch one corner of eachpieceto fit Bevel edge all fiveslats. one on Then, without changing fence the setup, bevel other the piece edges fourof theslab.Make both on in around the rail(Divider Detail). sure edges each on slope thesame direclion. Now clry fit the dividers. Make sure they're in position square to A Wotershed Design one eclgc'only; rest havebcvels the the carcase.then drill the counter- With the carcasecompletecl, turn on both eclges. sunk pilot holes through the top, your attcntion to builcling the Culting a full bevel along the bottom, and hang rail (Figure 3). dropfront door.It's a sirnpleassem- slats' eclgeswoulcl have left sharp, Drive a screw into each hole. bly consisting of five slats helcl fi-agilecorners, so I cut a partial Bore holes for thc shclf support tclgether by three braces (D<xlr bevcl, lcaving a shoulcler about r/"r'-wicle(Figure 5). Setup your pins in both faces of each clivicler Construction Details). and in the inside face of each side The slatsall start out the same,so table saq then bevel onc cclgc o[ panel (Figure 4). Then set asidc first rip five pieces to a width of eachslat.Sct one piccc asiclc usc for ancl the drill and cut the shelvesto size. 31,/zrr, cut therr-r length. to as the top slat, anclbevel the other I like to cut the shelvesabout l/srr As I mentioned earlier, the key eclgeof the four rer.naining slats.A shorter than the width of the com- to the cloor's water-sheclcling featherboarclhelps get smoother partment. This allows for rnaneu- ability is the bevel-edgedesign of cuts,anclbc sure to use a push-stick vering the shelveswhen necessary. the slats.'fhe top slat is beveledon anytimeyour hand nearsthe blacle.

Door Construction Details

Front View
f 74y8"

3Y2"

I
16%"

V Bottom ' slat Brace

42

Workbench June1998 r

1,/+'Ldiameter Now fasten one of straight bit to rout a Hinge recess in the outlined area the double-beveled Details (Figure 8). Set the bit depth to slats with its bottom match the thickness of the hinge edge flush with the \.j Bottomslat flap. Don't worry about shaping bottom ends of the \ , / .. .J< the recess exactly, but do rout to braces. Make sure End View ) the outline or a little beyond. The the bevelson this slat - Hinge recesses will be completely cov- are oriented the same Instolling Hinges way as the bevel on Brace ered by the botlom slal. At first, I planned to assemblethe the top slat. Drill four door at this point, then mount strap Assembling the Door countersunk holes in hinges to the door'sface.But I real- Correctly orienting bevels the on the slat where it interized if l followed this path, a paltry the slats is critical to the door's abil- sects each brace three screws in each hinge would ity to keep rain from running into (spacing them to haveto carry the load,which could the work center.So as you assemble miss the hinges) and be substantial when the door's your door, pay close attention when drive the screws positioning the slats. laden with pots and bags of soil. (Hinge Details). To get all the screws to conAfter screwing a hinge to each Space the remaintribute to the cause,I sandwiched brace, I found that attaching the ing slats equally, and the hinges between the braces top slat (the slat with only one drill two pilot holes at ancl the bottom slat (Hinge beveled edge) to the braces is the each crossover with Details). Since I wanted the bot- best way to begin the door assem- the braces. Then tom slat to sit flush with the other bly (Figure 9). Align the square drive the screws. slats, I recessed an area in each edge of the top slat flush with the TopView brace for the hinge flap to rest in. ends of the braces, and drill two Door Meels Cqrcqse Centera hinge on eachbraceand countersunk pilot holes at each Bring the subassembliestogether trace around the flap (Figure 7). crossover joint location. Drive a by centering the door on the carNext, use your router and a deck screw into each pilot hole. case and drilling pilot holes in the bottom panel for the hinge screws. Trace around Unlike the door hinge flaps, these hinge to mark flap flaps are just surface mounted. Supporting the door in the open position is handled by two lightdub/ chains. Drive screw eyes into one slat and attachone end ofthe chains (seebelow).Hold the door leveland pull the chains taut under the top panel to locate another set of screw eyes. Drive them in, and attach the chains. Installing a gate hook and Center hinge thefaceof each a on brace, Use %" straight to routthehinge a bit flap eye will hold the door shut. andbuttthehinge knuckle against the recesses. justbeyond outline, a Rout the to I mounted the work center to the bevel. Then trace around flap. the depth equals hinge thickness. shed wall by driving 3rllong that the flap screws through the hang rail into the studs. The length of the three braces matchesthe length of the dividers, minus 1/s"for clearance (167 in /e,tt my case).Cut the braces to length and bevel their ends at 45', leaving u tTntt-wide shoulder like you did on the slats.

My future as a plant-man maybe up in the air.But no matterhow it goes,I know I

have a work area that's sure to be admired by real gardeners everyrvhere.tfl

Attach topslatfint, thenthe boftom (besure outboard the slat the edges flushwith are theends thebraces), of Position remaining sothatallthegaps equal. the slats are Workbench June1998 I

.fu'. s
DgWALT

{i

*1,
{!

//1i/rrtTra/rn1
/

's.

_ . r,a"w**-*ffiii+yq,;a

Leaders the Pack of

Besides trustedharnrnerand a a taperneasure, rnost the indispensible a carpenter tool ownsis a heauy-dwty circular saw.

It'swkatturnsfiles offrarning
lurnberand stacks plywoodinto of
a finished structure. These saws will rip, bevel,and crosscut.Install the appropriateblade, and they can even tackle concrete, tile, or metal pipe. Then again, these saws are built to handle such jobs, unlike their consumer-grade counterparts. Professionalsaws come with more powerful motors, stronger gearboxes, better bearings, and a raft of options not typically found on lower-priced models. 44 Workbench Tune1998 r

Whether you're buying your Most manufacturers also offer first circular saw or looking to smaller, easier-to-handle versions replace one, it's worth taking a - sr/zttto 6r/zr - that will still cut close look at the models the pros 2x material at 90". Though not as use, particularly when you consid- powerful, these scaled-down moder their combinationof oower.ver- els are typically the saws of choice satility, and durability. among finish carpenters. lhe 71/c" Stondord Circular saws come in a variety of sizes, designated by their blade diameter. They range from 33/s" cordlesstrim sawsto 16rr larger or giants used in timber frame construction. By far the most common size is 71/qtt. Using a blade this diameter allows the saw to remain fairly compact, yet provides plenty of bite to power through 2x stock with the blade laid over at 45".

gears. Whatever the hypoid's advan- impractical Worm-drive Power and oftenpainfulexpeCircularsawscomein two basic tages, other manufacfurers haven't rience.But skilledframersusethis "flavors" worm-drive and sidewinder - based on the motor position and type ofgearing. Worm-drive saws have motors positionedparallel to the blade, and use a worm gear transmission to power the blade.These deepmeshing gears, such as those in the Skil HD77 (below), produce a blade speed of about 4,400 rpm (compared to 5,800 rpm for helical-gear saws). However, this slower speed is more than offset by an increasein torque. Using a similar transmission with hypoid gears (below), Makita claims its longer, spiral-cut gears mesh more smoothly and positively than conventional worm seen fit to give up the proven performance and durability of worm gear transmissions. To further boost performance,a sealed oil reservoir gives the gears and bearings a continous bath of lubricant, reducing wear and dissipating heat. As a result, wormdrive saws can gang-cut plywood or Iraming lumber without bogging down or stripping out a gear. I first experienced this raw power brzzing through sopping wet, pressure-treated deck lumber with a borrowed worm-drive. (My old saw had already died trying to cut this soggy stuff.) I also remember how my wrist and forearm ached after 10 hours of hoisting that beast into cutting position. These saws typically weigh 15 to 18 lbs., making overhead cuts an

weight to their advantage propby ping up 2x materialon edge,and makingcrosscuts verfically, letting gravity help pull the saw down through the board. Because motor configuration the putsthe handlefurther back,I also find a worm-drivesaw extendsmy reachwhen cutting a sheetof plywood.That long rear handle,combinedwith havingthe bladeon the left side, also makes it easierfor right-handerslike me to eyeball straightcuts. Sidewinder Speed The other main type of saw has perpendicular, the motormounted or sideways, the blade. Hence to its nickname, sidewinder. Top-end models spiral-cut use helicalgears (lowerleft) to transferthe rotation

Worm Gear Assemblv

Hypoid Gear Assembly

Codless Lightweight Mobile Saws: and

Helical Gear Assemblv
In addition to drill/drivers,the recent boom in cordlesstools has included circular saws. Increasesin voltage and battery output have made it more feasible to create cordlesssaws, and a number are now available in L2- to 18-volt models. However,these saws are no substitute for their corded counterparts when it comes to large-scaleor continuous cutting - they don't have the power or cutting capacity to compete. These tools shine in applications where a heavier corded tool is too awkward or power isn't readily available. DeWalt's line of cordless saws all use 53/e"-diameter blades and weigh in at less than 8-lbs. These leftbladed trim saws will easily cut 2x material at 9O", but weren't designed to make one-pass bevel-cuts in that lumber when tilted to 45". Makita offers 9.6-volt and 12-volt saws with 33/a" blades, while Panasoniccarries two L2-volt models in 43/a"and 53/e"sizes. Skil offers a 12-volt, 33/e" model equipped with a diamond-tipped blade and a water bottle - it's designed specifically for wet-cutting glass and tile. \TorkbenchI June 1998

+>

Porter-Cable 843

'147 Porbr-Cable

moto/s shaft to driveshafl While lacking the worm-geartorque, these gears allowhigher speeds thatin turn can producesmoothercuts. Most sidewinders have the blade on the right, although Porter-Cableoffers left-bladedversions of its framer's saw.Despite the fact that having the blade on the right makes it hard for righthandersto view the cut I'm willing to overlook this shortcoming

becausethe saw is easier on my arm - sidewinderstip the scales in the 1Gto 1&lb. range.And when I fim the end of a board,most of the sara/sbaseplate (and weight) rests on the workpiece. However, this wide base- the result of the sideways mounted motor - can sometimes get in the way when you need to make a cut in a crampedlocation. From a cost standpoint,you can generally expectto pay more for a worm-drivesawthan a sidewinder. Worm-drive saws start at about while con$150and go up to $200, tractor-grade sidewinders sell for roughly $12G$180. Pivot points Regardless ofthe type,you should look for severalthings in a circular saw.You want one with a sffong, flat base.Stamped steelbaseshoes more prone to bending and are flexing becausethey lack the reinforcing ribs found on cast aluminum or magnesium bases (shownon the sawat upper left). Blade height and bevel adjustments should operate smoothly, but lock firmly. The blade height adjustment you'll find on most sawsconsistsof a fixed pivot point on the front of the saw and an arcshapedguide at the rear. An exceptionare two rear-pivoting models offered by DeWalt (center). To raise or lower the blade,you loosenthe front handle knob and the saw pivots around a point at the rear of the base. A third type of mount - the drop foot - doesn't have a pivot point. Instead, the saw rides on a vertical rail system. Milwaukee has used this design for years on its 637S20sawand earlier models. For standard cutting, any type will do, but I have a preference when making plunge cuts. I like the smooth control I get with either of the pivoting styles. The dropfoot style has a tendency to bind and grab - something to avoidfor this precisework. All sawswill tilt to 45' for bevel

cuts and manywill go all the way to 50o,which is usefulfor rafter cuts in roof framing. Of those, you don't accihavelocks at 45oso dentally slide past to 50'. A few will tilt 3o to 5o in the opposite direction - a neat feature if you needto back-bevel pieceof fim a before scribing it to a wall. Other Considerotions Most highcnd sawshavea spindle lock, which makeschangingblades a snap.The lock button should be easytoreachwhileholdingthesaw in one hand and looseningor tighteningthe arbor nut with your other hand.For addedconvenience, look for a model with on-boardwrench storage in the handle, like the model shownabove. Some saws (below) have levers that let you retract the blade guard. This feature keeps your handsawayfrom the outsideof the blade guard and increasesyour control during the cut. I'd also recommenda saw with an elecftic blade brake. This stops the blade in a fraction of a second after you releasethe power switch - a particularly nice feature if you consider the blade is exposed

46

'W'orkbench I June 1998

when the blade guard retracts during a cut. Many manufacturers offer a brake-equipped version of most models for $10 to $20 more. My next saw will also have softstart. This feature lets the motor slowly come up to speed, greatly reducing the wrist-wrenching torque generated by a powerful motor snappingto fuIl speedwhen you pull the trigger switch. One key feature many buyers overlook is the cord. I want a cord that remains pliable in cold weather, and that's at least &ft. long to give me room to move around. Several companies offer optional plugs with twist-lock prongs. They lock together with mating twistlock extensioncords or outlets, so they won't come loose when you tug on the cord.

24"

" ii'ii'

,)r

i.*+T-p
r l.? ...1fi5

Cutting Accessories/ Edge

Mount the proper type of blade in your circular saw and you can cut just about anything. For general purpose cutting in wood, a thin-kerf, carbide-tipped blade ot 20 or 24 teeth (for a 77/+"diameter saw) is hard to beat. Many of these blades have expansion slots to dissipate heat, some have non-stick coatings, and a few, such as Freud's Diablo series have a raised area behind the cutting tooth that helps prevent kickback. Remodeler-type blades, such as DeWalt's Rock Carbide Extreme blade, have L4 to 18 teeth, and can cut through nails and fasteners without throwing a tooth or diminishing the blade's cutting ability. lf you need to cut masonry, concrete or stone, you can equip your saw with a dry-cut diamond blade. While expensive ($5O-$8O), these blades have grit along the edge of the blade and last much longer than the solid abrasive grit blades. For cutting ferrous metals such as steel bar stock, lrwin's Metal Star and Vermont American's new Steel Cutter blades are carbide-tipped alternatives to aluminum-oxide cutoff wheers. Need to cut larger material? lf so, you have a couple ways to boost the capacity of your 77/q" saw. The Big Foot Saw Adapter converts your wormdrive saw to handle a LO"-diameter blade, giving you the capacity to gangcut two layers of 2x stock or slice through a 4x4 in one pass. Consisting of a blade guard housing and baseplate, the 10" kit, complete with blade, is under $2OO. For information, call Big Foot Saw Adapters, QO2) 565-9954. Another extra-depth option is the Prazi Beam Cutter, an adapter kit that lets you install a chainsaw bar, chain, and drive gear on worm-drive saws. Offering a cutting capacity of 12", the cutter sells for approximately $150. Contact Prazi USA. at

f',$t

Which to Choose?
So which saw is best? Both and neither. Professional framers have used both types for years, so it depends less on what you need it to do, and more on just plain personal preference (see A Tale of Two SawsonpageT2). A quick poll of Workbench staffers showed that most own both types (or would if we could). Then again, we're all tool fanatics. But in trying to justify owning both saws, I heard some common threads of wisdom. If there's a job that requires high torque - gang cutting treated lumber or sawing out concrete or masonry - we all reach for a worm-drive saw. For trimming sheet goods or making cuts that require lifting the saw over waist high, we'll grab the sidewinder. After that, it turned into a heated debate related to brand loyalty and ambidexterity. Suffice it to say that for most home woodworkers, any of these pro saws will meet your needs and last a lifetime. If you can, visit a building center and handle several models to get a feel for how they fit your hands. Find one that feels good, buy a good blade for it, and you're ready to rumble.tH

$oa)747-1490.

InstallA Countertop
Newcabinets haaea powerfal In our case, we added custom They selectedlaminate (455660 the counter surfaces, effect a kitchenremodeling countertops to the new Merillat Scopra)for a backsplash(SSpro on cabinets we installed recently in and picked project. termsof layoutand confributing editor Bob Settich's file) and edging (SEstyle),all from In (We chronicled that first budget, improaements ca,rry kitchen. our remodelingproject in WilsonarlThe edging and backfew phaseof splashhaveathin accentstipe that rnoreweight. whenit comes the April 1998issueof.Workbench.)breaksup the expanseofthe counBut Many materials ters. (For more options,turn to to aisualimpact,countertops can early becausetheywere ruled out EaryEd,girgIdeason page52.) Srr simply weren't
play an equally important role. Using color, texfure, and edging details, countertops easily hold their own alongsidevast expanses of cabineffy. .rainbow With a of colors to choose from, not to mention the variety of materialsavailable, a ifs sure bet you can get the unique look you want. And, if you're your forwaysto revitalize searching kitchen without financinga second mortgage, paint and new countertopsmay offer the adrenaline boost your tired old decorneeds. 48 \U?'orkbench 1998 r Iune within the budget Bob and his wife Barbara had set for the project. What the budget allowedwasplastic laminate covered countertops. Bob considered going to a local building center to purchase postformed units - those with the backsplashand edging formed in one piece - but in the end opted for sitebuilt countertops. The chanceto pick a laminateand add edging of their choice was a big factor in the decision. They also liked the ideaof a seamless corner - a feature I'll explainlater. Moking it Seomless Oncethe Settichsmadetheir decisions, we went to work. The first thing we did was order Medex for the base layer, or substrate. Medex is a water-resistant version of medium-density fiberboard (MDD. Ifs stable, smooth, and flat, and we found it easyto frim, despitethe cloudsof fine dustthat billow up when you machineiL Creating invisible seams with laminate is difficult, and often seams become glaringly obvious

Countertop Constuction View

Legsection Cleat Base cabinel corner brace

Corner section

0pening for

<ivertime as water seeps in fronr repeateclwashings. So we also ordc'rc'cl sheet of laminatc 1l ft.a wicleby 12 ft.Jong that let us cover clur L-shapeclcounter with orre piece (Countertop Construction View). The leftoverpicce was used on a srnallauxiliarycountertop.

Build thesubstrate thickness up edge by gluing 4"-wide cleats Medex thebotof to tomsides thecountertoo of substrate.

fashion the counlcrtolt sr-rbScribing fhe Fir strate fi-orn stanclarcl 11.x 8 i1. Fitting a countertop is a multi-step 4 shcctsof Mc.clex, cut the corner l)rocess that requires accurate wc as one scction an<lbr.rtt-joinecl arrcl n'rarking.'fobe sucthe rneasuring leg pieceto onc cncl.'fhis cnsr-rrccl ccssful, you must reference thc' thc corncr lriccc rcnrainc'cl flat, substrateto tl're frorrt eclge of the ancl,given the heli of Meclex,this base cabinets so you have the twoliece assemltlynradethe coun- salle amount o[ ovcrhang at all time, you want lertop casicrto handlc. lroints.At the san're Wc built up the thicknessof the a closc'fit againstthe walls. I;ry a scclion of substrate atolr c'dgeswherc'vernecessaryby gluing 4rLwicle cleals to the unclersicle the cabinets, arrd establish the 'l)ris overhangfrom thc.lace of the base of the substrate(Figure 1). assurecl tl-rat countert<ips the woulcl cabinct (Figure 3). We beganwith contactall basecabir.ret wallsto ltro- tl.tc'corner secticln sinceit haclto fit vicleaclc'c1r-ratc agairrst two walls (which happenccl support. I recor.nrncncl cutting the lc'g to be slightlyou1of square). AIler aligning the substratcwith section2r' longcr than its finishecl length to allow for final fitting. Ancl thc' base cabinet, we found the I feel strongly that rcinforcin.qthe poirrtwhere tl'resubstrateanclwall goocl were farthest apart, anclset a colnbutt joint with biscuitsruakes 'l'hen serrse(Figure 2). (llut hold oif pass t<l that clistance. we joint t<-rgether nriw.) scribeclthe substrate(Figure 4). gluing the for

'lii

Building 1l ft. long an countertop from standardft. x 8 ft. materials 4 required usto splice substrate biscuits. the using

The edge thesubstrate beparalof must lelto theface thebase of cabinets to ensure uniform a overhang.

parallel Once subskate aligned the is with thefront thecabinets, of scribe back the edge thewallusing compass. to a Workbe r June 1998 nch

49

Don't worry aboutminor gapsthey'll be covered by the backThe main concernis to get splash. the front edgeof the substrateparallelwith the basecabinetfaces. If you need to remove a lot of material,usea jigsawto rough out the cut (Figure 5). Abelt sander works well for "sneakingup" to the scribe line (Figure 6). Tilt the sander slightly to undercut the rcughly edge.This will make it easier to Use jig saw cutthesubstrate a to line, to the to your scribe keepingthewaste adjustthe fit against wall. line. Satisfiedwith the fit of the corside thescdbe of ner piece, next we turned our attentionto fitting the leg section. In Bob's kitchen, the end of this piece also butts againsta wall, so we couldn'tjust cut it to length;we also had to scribe the end for a tight fit. First, we laid the leg on top of the basecabinetsand corner section, butted its end against the wall, and established uniform the overhang. Then we measured the the the to line amountthe leg overlapped corComplete trimming thescribe a Tilt slight- ner sectionat the butt-joint.After using beltsander. thesander lyb undercut edge a better the for fit. writing this measurementdown,

we measured the widest gap betweenthe wall andthe other end of the substrate.Then we added measurements thegapandoverlap plus 1/s". Usingthis sum,we set our compass and scribed the substrate's end to the wall. By cutting along this scribe line, we also trimmed the leg to the properlength. Accurately fitting the back edge of the leg to the wall could only be donewith the leg dry-fittedto the corner piece (with biscuits installed).Bob and I slid the substrate assembly against the wall, checked the alignment with the cabinet fronts, and scribed the back edgeof the leg. Once the back edge was trimmed to shape,we slid it back into placeto checkthe fit. When you're satisfiedwith the fit, removethe substratesections and placethem upsidedown on a flat surface.Squirt glue into the biscuit slots and run a beadalong the endsto be joined,then clamp together(Figure 7). the assembly

the Post-Formed Countertop Simplifies Process

Post-formed countedop is readily available and simplifies installation since the laminate is already applied and the backsplash and edging are integral parts. The key, as with any countertop, is to make sure the countertop aligns parallel to the front face of the base cabinets before you scribe it to the wall. A lip on the rear edge of the backsplash allows you to easily trim up to V+" when fitting it to the wall. When you cut post-formed countertop, use a fine-toothed crosscut blade and saw through the backsplash first. Then clamp a board to the bottom of the substrate to hold your saw flush with the edging cleat and guide the blade as you make your cut. You can order pre-mitered pieces to make right-angle turns. A bead of silicone sealant and drawbolts are used to join the two pieces, making the mitered joint tight and flush.

Aftsr aligning front the edge with Tocuta post-fomed counbrbp, by through backthe thecabineb, thebackscribe begin sawing with blade. splash thewall a compass.splash a fin*bothed to with

a of A guide clampedtheundenide Afterapplying bead silicone to pubthesaw use to flush theedging caulk, drawbolb pullthe with joint tightlybgsther. counterbp lipand contrcls cut. the

50

\W'orkbenchTune1998 t

In a few hours, turn the substrate overandscrape offany squeezeout. ff necessary, applywoodfiller to any low spots,and sandit smooth. Loying the Lominqte Our laminatearrived a couple of weeks after we ordered it and came loosely rolled up in a cardboardcarton.I carefullyunfurled it the day before we planned to attach it, laying it flat to remove any "memory"of being curled. When laminatinglarge pieces,I allow at least two inchesof overlap on all sides.This way, I have little risk of misaligningthe laminate on the substrate once the contact cement applied errorshereare is (For details,read tough to undo. l^ayingInminatw in the December 1997 issueof. Workbench.) Applytwo coatsof contactcement to both the laminateand substrate, and use spacersticks to hold the laminate above the substrateuntil you haveit positioned. After removing the spacers, secure bondby the working over the entire surface with a roller.Trim the excess with a routeranda flushcut bit. Adding the Edging Our edginghad a tonguefor mounting it to the substate. The tongue fits in a groovethat we hadto rout in the appropriateedges of the sub sfate (Figure 8). Because edgthis ing preciselyoverlapsthe countertop laminate,the grooveshad to be positioned with dead-on accuracy. Using the specialslotcutting bit we purchasedwith the edging, we routed test groovesin scrapto set the router depth. Then we routed the groovesin the countertop. We cut all edgingfor the countertop a couple of inches long, and started our fitting process at the insidecorner of the "L'. Oncewe had a tight-fitting miter there, we marked and mitered the opposite ends, then mitered mating pieces for the outside corners. We cut these last piecesto lengttr so they butted against the walls. Apply water-resistantwood glue to the

ifs the bit Once tdmmed fit,place substrab Using slotcufting soldbytheedgb the srtions upside ona lwelsurface, ingmanufacturer, theedging down rcut mountglue clamp bgether. then and them inggrcove the edge thesubstrate, in of

glue piece place, After fittingthemitercd ends theedging, thelong of edging in using pressure glueandclamp remaining cauls apply to clamping evenly. Then the edging.

Install braces against upper the cabineb near back the edge clamps and along front. the These thecountertop hold firmlyin position theconstruction until adhesive dries.

edgrng,and clampit firrnly in place (Figure 9). After checking the fit one last time, we appliedconstructionadhe siveto the top edgesof the basecab inets and carefully set the countertop in place. Braces,wedges,and clamps held it firmly in place overnight(Fiepre 1O). Before removing the braces,we you drilled holes through the cabinet Befure rcmove bracing, pilot he ddll cornerbraces drovescrews and hrcugh cabinet into holes the comer bnces, the substrate cleats 11). andddvescrcws thesubsffie cleab. inb @igure
-Workbench Tune1998 I

5r

Finishing Up The only task remaining was to install the backsplash.Using a ready-made backsplash madethis final stepa simpleprocess. Bob'swallsweresomewhat Since out of square, decidedto cope we the corners instead of miter them - itwas actuallyeasierandgaveus tighterjoints(Figure 12). The long piecewentin first, then we coped the short piecesto fit against it. Even though Bob plannedto install a row of ceramic tile above the backsplash, we scribedand trimmed it to get good contactalongthe wall. We applieda thin bead of adhesiveto the back and bottom edge of each backpiece, pressed splash and theminto place(Figure 13). We took careto cleanup the squeezeout, when and

Miter end thebaclsplash, use the of then a coping totilmaway orcess, saw the following edge thelaminate. the of the adhesive up, we caulkedthe set with clearsilicone. seam While we wantedto standback and admire our handiwork, Barbara reminded us that the kitchen still neededthe sink and installed.At least she appliances

piece Install longest of baclaplash the piece fint,then install coped against the it. A bead caulk of wraps up. it was willing to overlook the plywoodunderlayment the floor on for the time being.We planto wrap up that final phaseof this kitchen remodelingprojectwith laminated woodflooring. We'llbe donesoon, Barbara. promise!tM We

Six EasyEdgingIdeas
When we first looked at edging for the countertop going into Bob's kitchen, we were amazed at the number of options available commercially. We also found them easy to install and simple in their construction. And though we found the perfect manufactured edging for our project, we wondered how easy it would be to create our own shop-built versions. So in a display of true do-it-yourself spirit, we rounded up some scraps of laminate and substrate from Bob's remodeling job and put together a few edging ideas of our own. We were also curious to see what our second edging choice - a black, solid acrylic commercial molding - looked like with our laminate, so we created a sample with it, too. We routed a groove in the back edge of our moldings, as well as in the countertop substrate, to accept a wood spline. We also routed details in the front edge of some moldings, such as the groove for the brass or Corian inlay, before we installed it on the substrate. With the front details shaped, we glued the edging to the substrate. Then, we applied the laminate so it overlapped and bonded to the edging. Our final shaping on the front edge, whether a flush-cut, roundover, or chamfer, left us with a seamless transition between the edging and laminate. You'll want to use a neq carbide-edged router bit with a guide bearing to do the final trimming. lt also helps to hone your technique on scrap samples first before tackling the real thing.

Mahogany bowl with bit rcutedprcfile

52

rJune1998 \Torkbench

MobilePlaner Station
It used bethat thicknessinet face frame or a panel glueup to and know that all the piecesare a planers were foundonlyin uniform thickness. professional cabinetry or While I'd be among the first to thank the tool companies for millworkshops. in putting suchcapabilitieswithin my But years, number grasp, I have a small bone of conrecent a of toolmanufacturers e guys who attached the word hau tention to pick with the marketing
rolled out benchtop models that make it possiblefor home woodworkers to enjoy the benefits of surfacing their own lumber. Since I got mine, I now buy rough-sawn lumber that costsless and is higher quality than the surfaced lumber I used to buy. Ifs also great to be ableto machinestock for a cabIttook movingsomeheavyboxes with a twowheeled hand fuck to ratfleloosethe ideaof mountingmy planerto a twowheeledframe.The frame I built is designedto spana pair of sawhorses createa work to station, much like the portable miter saw station and router table featuredin the December1997and "portable" to these machines.At February 1998 issuesof.Workbench. 65 lbs., my planer doesn't get The hardboardcoveredplywood moved much further than from plafform effectively tripled the the shelf below my workbench to length of the planer'souffeedtable, the benchtop.Even with the built- so long boardsare supportedafter in handle, it's just too heavy to passing under the knives. This carry easilyto projectsitesoutside helps reduce snipe, and the slick my shop,althoughthere are times surface of the hardboard lets the whenI coulduseit. moving stock slide alongeasily.
\TorkbenchlJune 1998

Planer Station ConsfuuctionView

Portable olaner ffi x 1/2" flat-head w000screws

x24"W 60"1 x 0VERALL 53/a"H SIZE:

platform skin 0utfeed t7a" 22V2" 30" (hardboard) x x

Ut/heel Mounting Block ,-

Planer baseplate 3/4" x22" x25'' ----\ (plywood) 5lo"T-nut

[,{

I I-

\516"x 3" hexhead bolt

Wheel mounting blocky

1lz" x 4s/a"x22tr

\
V

Rail Details
TopView
/1",

Handle

rJ
A
Y

(:

lfJ':

B3/q', 2,'l+ +t

'tsyz,,

1il,* 0,,

Side View

WhatYou'll Need
Lumber (1) half-sheet 3/arr plywood of (1) half-sheet 1/+rr of hardboard (2) 10-ft. 2x10's fir Hardware (2) 3rr-diameter casters fixed (4) 5/rorrT-nuts (4) s/rct' 3rrbolts * with nuts (4) 5/rc" flatwashers (8) #10* 11lzrr pan-head sheetmetalscrews (64)#8 1%rr flat-head woodscrews " (9) #8 3rr woodscrews " flat-head >4
\Workbench I June 1998 The ouffeedplafform mounts to a trio of wood spacersattachedto the frame structure (Planer Station Construction View). Varying the thickness of the spacersallows you to match the ouffeedtable height of most portable planers on the market (thosewith fixed beds and moving cutterheads like my Delta 22560). It was also easier to trim a spacer than to adjust the thickness of an integral piece of the frame.

Building the Frome

Becausethe whole purpose of the stand is to make the planer easier to move, keeping weight down was a major consideration. chose I 2x fir for its strength-to-weight ratio, but buying clear, straightgrained fir 2x4's proved impractical. However, I sorted through a stack of 2x10's and managed to find a couple with sections of relatively straight, knot-free wood.

To further reduce the weight and get square-edged,straight boards, I milled the wood to 1rrthick (see Re-milling 2x Stock To Square, One Sideat a Time on page 57). Start by ripping the rails, stretchers, and baseplate supports to width, then cut them to length. Next, make the 45" cuts on both ends of the rails (Rail Details). With the stock cut to size, clamp the rails together with the inside faces up (Figure 1). This helps with laying out matching dadoesfor the stretchers and supports. Keep in mind that the middle dadoes are 2rrwidebecausethey eachjoin with both a stretcher and support. I cut the rail dadoes on the table saw with a s/rtt dado blade and a wood etension on my miter gauge (Figure 2). To cut each ilLwide dado you'll need to make two pass es. You can get consistent results if you clamp ut'lnrt-thick setup block to the fence. Make the first pass after butting the rail against the setup block, and moving the fence to align the inboard side of a dado layout with the edge of the blade. Then, butt the end of the rail against the fence and make the secondpass.As you setup for each dado, be sure to make the cuts in both rails. Cutting the 2rlwide rail dadoes requires three passes. Using my layout lines, I cut the outside edges of the dadoes first, then removed the remaining piece of stock with the third pass. It may seem like extra trouble to put rounded corners on the sawhorsenotches, but I had a good

reason for doing it. Past experience has shown that if I cut the notches square, splits are more likely to begin at the inside corners. Shapethe notches in the rails by first drilling 1/2" holes - for the rounded corners (Rail Details). Then remove the stockbetween the holes with the dado blade raised to 1/zrr(Figure 3). By lowering the blade to r/tt',you can remove the bit lnsurc squarc a frame making rails by the mirrcr each ofter, of stock at the ends of each notch. Clamp rails the together theinside wift faces thenlay up, Now spread glue in the rail outthedadoes. Unclamp boards mafi theedges. the b dadoesand clamp the frame assembly together.Check for square,then drive two screws into eachjoint. Cut the 34rrpl)ryvood baseplateto size, and screw it to the baseplate supports. As insurance against splitting and splinters, I sanded a slight roundover on all the outside edges of the frame assembly.

Adding the Cqsters Providing solid supportfor the

wheels called for beefier stock, so I used a length of 2x6 for the mounting block. Rip a 45' bevel on one edge, mark and measure the width of the block, then bevel the other edge (Figure 4). An atxiliarywood fence helps keep the sharp edge of the bevel from stpping underneath the fence. I also use a push block when ripping bevels - to apply downward pressure and to keep my hand well away from the blade in case the workpiece binds between the fence and the blade. I-ower the blade slightly, move the fence toward the blade 34", then flip the mounting block over, and cut a third bevel (Figure 5). Toprevent movement any during cut,clamp railto the the gauge. thefirt pass, thenil endagainst themiter For butt pass. thesetup block. thefunce align second Use to the

Withthedado taised nibble away waste the between 12", you the %"-dia. holes drilled define notches. to the Then lower blade cutthewood the and below holes. the

oillilt*-,=--=-\

S-=s-=-\

Begin making wheel the mounting block beveling edges by both of yourstock. auxiliary An wood fuceprevenb beveled the edge fromslipping underneath fence the during second the cut.

Complete wheel the mounting block moving funce by the toward 3/+" theblade andripping second a bevel, which meeb first the onerightat thecenter theblock's of edge. Finished widthis 45le", \TorkbenchI June 1998

55

\ cut Turn the frame After you mountthe casters, assembly upside the handle and bumper to size. down to glue and Rout the edges with a r/zu i,ounti,,g roundover bit, then screw the v ll ;;;; block in place. Next, piecesto the frame assembly. // posinon the casters, // Mounfing fhe Ploner keepinsthematleast2rl ,4 away from the rails to When I designedthis project, I avoid the screws you just envisionedbolting the planer to drove through the rails into the this plafform only when I needed ends of the mounting block. Mark to take it out of the shop. (I guess to the screw locations, drill pilot I still planned storethe planerin holes.then secure casters. the its "designated" spot under my workbench.) Plastic knobs were going to makemountingthe planer a quick,tool-freeoperation. Funny how reality can change yourplans. I slipped machine the fu onto the mounting bolts, I discovered that the planer's base didn't to allowenoughclearance usewingnuts, let alone plastic knobs. So much for quick,tool-freemounting. But after using the station,I realInsert brad-point ttrrcugh mount- ized my original thinking was the a bit By ingholes theplaner and it to flawedanyway. havingthe planin base, bp mad< hole the locationsthebaseplab. er permanentlymounted,I benefit on from the extended oufeed platform anytime I use the machine.And the station can be proppedagainstthe wall of my shopwhenifs not needed. 'To begin the mountingprocess, centerthe planerbetween rails the on the baseplate, alignthe end and of its ouffeed tablewith the oufeed edgeof the baseplate. OnceI lined everything up, I inserted a 3/st brad-pointbit through each of the planer'smountingholesandgaveit a tap to mark the hole positions (Figure 6). I removedthe planer, counterdrilled shallow 3/4tt-dia. boresto seatthe T:-nut flanges, then switched a3/s" bit anddrilledthe to bolt holesthroughthe baseplate. InstallT-nutsin the baseplate by first tapping them into the holes with a hammer, then drawing them tight with a bolt (Figure 7). Slip the planer onto the bolts and addwashers nylon-insert and locking nuts to the assembly- vibranuts. tion may loosenstandard

---7

Outfeed Plotform Now that you've mountedthe planer,ifs time to build the ouffeedplatform.But beforeyou start,checkto makesureyour planer's infeedand ouffeed tables are level with the bed. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for making these adjusffnents Deltarecommends using a level to fine-tune the 22-560's tables(Figure 8). Onceyou havethe tablesset,cut the plywoodand hardboardto size for the oufeed plafform,and clamp Tap T-nut themounting inthebaseplate. a washer a har-head the pieces in place on top of the a into holes Slip onb to the draw frame assemblysfetchers. Extend bolt,and thread boltupfiomthebottom. a wrench tighbn boltand the Use theT-nut withthesurface thebaseplate. flush of a level off the planer'souffeedtable from the andmeasure distance the bottom of the level to the plafform (Figure 9). Add Vs'r to this measurementandyou'll havethe thickyou nessofthe spacers need,plusa little extra for final fitting. Ripthe spacers this width and to crosscutthem to length. Position them on the stretchers and clamp the pladorm panelsin place,making sure their ends butt against pieces place, in then the planer's ouffeedtable. Lay a Use lerelb check a alignment theplan- Clamp platform of the e/s inftedandoutfeed hbles,Adjust them measurc straightedge across the ouffeed betrveen and outfeei them the according manuhcturc/s to instructions, table determine height. table and the plafform to see how to spacer

56

\Torkbench June 1998 I

much the spacers need to be trimmed (Figure 1O). Run the through the planer at the spacers sametime to trim them equally. pilot holes in Drill countersunk the spacers screwthem to the and

stretchers.Now you can reclamp and in the plywood hardboard place pilot holesto and drill countersunk screwthe panels the frame. to Sinceit's likely that the edgesof the outfeed platform will get banged up, I added solid wood trim for protection. Cut fir trim strips to size and screw them to the edgesof the plafform.

Finishing Up
A wipe-on oil-varnish finish and paste wax provide further protection for the planer station. Remove the planer, and mask the edges of the hardboard where it meets the trim strips. Then sand the entire station, except the hardboard, to 120-git. Hardboard's exceptionally

Place straightedge theplaner a acrcss outfeed to if tableandplatform determinethe height. spacem thecorrect are

slick surface doesn't require sanding or finishing. Apply two coats of varnish to the sanded areas, then give the entire station two coats of paste wax. Wheeling the station to my pickup for the first time was a pleasure. To load it, I simply leaned the handle end on the tailgate, then lifted the planer-end and slid the station into the truck bed. Maneuvering the station onto the sawhorses is a similar two-step operation. First, I lift the planerend onto a sawhorse, then I walk around to the handle-end, lift it, and slide the second sawhorse into position.You'll find,like I did, that moving and setting up your planer has never been so easy.tffi

To One at Remilling Stock Square, Side a Time A(

I've used simpler methods and tools to mill lumber, but with the amount of woodworking I do it really pays to have machines dedicated to just that task. Now that I've complemented my 6" jointer with a benchtop planer, truing up stock is easy. I used the basic technique shown here to get the straight, flat boards I needed for the mobile planer station. Begin by surfacing one face of the stock on your jointer. (This establishes the reference surface your planer needs to produce a flat board with parallel joint one faces.) Take shallow cuts (under Yro") "nO face flat in multiple passes. Then run the board, with the same face down, through the planer. At this stage, it's unlikely that the board's edges are straight or square to the faces. You can fix that by using a guide board to rip one edge straight on the table saw, or go back to the jointer for a few passes. After you machine one straight and square edge, you can rip the board close to final width. Then take a few finish passes on the jointer to remove the saw blade marks from each edge. lf the board is thick enough (l consider 3/4"th" minimum) and not too wide, you can also run it on edge through your planer.

Togetyour reference firut surface, mill one oftheboard onthejointer. face flat Keep cupped if any, the face, down.

Next, theboadthrcugh plansend the face erwiththejointed against bed, the pass. Once altemab fureach flat, faces

Curued edges betruedup wift the can bble sawanda guide boad.0r, br lightedgefimming, thejointer. use

passes Withoneedge nowsfaightandsquarc Torcmove mafts, finish saw he you b the boad faces, canrip the onboth should made $e be on edges joinbr if thesize worlqiece close to'rb finalwidth. or, allows, planer. the
\W'orkbenchTune1998 I

>/

The On-Site Sawyer

Themorning aftera seaere storm ln Seqrch of c Scwyer rolledthrough toutn, wentoutside With help fromIsomefriendsanda I few chainsaws, separated fire the to inspect trea in my backyard. wood from the parts of the fallen the worth saving. I kept '4sI'dfeared, highwinds the had giant diameter limb, and cut one large the an black funk into two 9-ft.long sections. fatallydamaged ancient There walnut,uprooting from the load andwas no way I'd be able to it haul theseheavylogs to a
ground. At least it missed the houseas it fell. I hatedto lose that beautifulfee and the shade it provided.But I haveto admit that I'd often looked at its long trunk and imagined all the beautiful boardshiddeninside. The fork of the fee, especially, showedpromiseof the exceptional figured crotch wood sometimes found in walnut trees. sawmill. So I decided if I couldn't get to the mill, the mill would have to cometo me. I called the folks at Wood-Mizer Products,a portable sawmill manufacturer.They keep a list of mill omers who will come to your site to do custom cutting. (Another portable mill maker, TimberKing, also maintains a nationwidelist of sawyersfor hire.) Even though I'd seen demonstrations of these mills at woodworking shows, I couldn't help feeling excited by the thought of getting closer to this kind of machinery (and the hope that I'd get to take some of this serious horsepowerfor a spin). So I was really geared up when Burl, the appropriatelynamed sawyer from Wood-Mizel arrived at my house with the big orangebeastin tow. As we unhitchedBurl's topof-the line LT40 mill. we talked about its feahres (I could just imagineTim Allen grunting his approval over each one). Like all Wood-Mizer mills, the LT40 has a horizontal band saw that rides over a bed equipped with log hold-downs.

58

W'orkbench I June1998

Power comes from either a gaso line, a furbocharged dieselengine, or an electric motor. The engine powersthe saw,a L2-volthydraulic pump, and a generatorthat keeps the battery chargedandruns several small electric motors. These motors position the cutting head andmovethe sawalongthe log bed. Gettingthe mill readyto run was surprisingly simple: adjusting five legs that level the cutting bed and support the mill when loadedwith heavy logs. Turning the ignition keybroughtthe3Fhpengine life. to Looding the Log While the enginewarmed up, \rye rolled a log to the mill using logger's cant hooks - without them we wouldn'thavebudgedthe beast (Figure 1). As the log turned,Burl instructed me to check for nails, spikes, anymetalthat couldpre or sent a hazard or dull the blade. Checking for metal is especially critical if the tree waslocatedalong a fence row or where signs may have been attachedto the trunk. Some sawyers won't even mill treestakenfrom theselocations. A visual inspection may not revealobjectsburied in the log, so manysawyers metaldetectors use to searchfor hiddenhazards. One Wood-Mizer ownertells a wild tale about hitting a horseshoe embedded in an oak tree's trunk, buried as the tree grew for years until it finally surroundedthe metal. After moving the log onto the mill's loading arms, the LT-40's hydraulicstook over,picking up the Withhelp fiomBurl, Assistant Dave Editor Sbnercllsa logonto mill's the hydraulic give loading Logge/s hooks, peaveys, much-needed arms. cant or leverage. Once he cut deep enough to reach the heartwood,Bud threw a few levers to flip the 1oga quarter turn (Figure 2). Then he cut an adjoining face square to the first (Figure 3), and so on until the four sidesof the cantwere square. The cant made it easy to cut boards of consistent thickness with straight, parallel edges (Figure 4). In very short order Moking the Cut There are severaltechniquesfor the tree branch became milling boards from a log. The eight straight-edged simplest is flat-sawing- cutting boards ilr-thick slices without moving the log. and just over This method results in the widest 9rr-wide. boards possible,but with edges coveredwith bark. To get straight, cleanedges,you must first shape the log into a squarebeamcalleda cant,then flat-saw boardsfrom the it. Shaping a cant wastes a bit more wood, though most of the wasteis madeup of less desirable sapwood. log and depositingit on the mill's skids.To get the best yield and the longest, flattest boards possible, Burl positionedthe log to avoidcutting across any bends. I watched with awe as he deftly maneuvered this immenselyheavy hee branch with slight flicks of the levers controlling the hydraulichrner.

Budcutaway sapwood onelogface he on thenrolled b squarc adjoining it fte face.

Wih fte seondfacecut,$e square con (called cant)begins bke shape, a b

Once cant shapd, justa matter making the is it's of successive to prcduce cub lumber any of desircd thickness. W'orkbench I Tune 1998 59

Themill'sthin blade wastes wood. little Water keeps pitchbuildup. running andprevenb cool theblade

I noticed there wasn't much sawdust piling up on the ground. For this, the thin kerf of the band saw blade gets the credit (Figure 5). I estimated that the branch yielded two boards more than if I'd cut it on a thick-bladed circular saw mill. Due to the mill's horizontal band saw configuration, you can remove each board as you complete the cut, or you can mill an entire log without removing the planks (Figure 6). Regardless of that choice, after completing each cut you raise the blade above the log, then back the carriage to the log's front end so you can lower the blade and make another pass. By the final cut, I was amazed to see the sparse yield we got from that branch. It made me appreciate how many trees it's taken to provide wood for my projects over the years.

Toking the Controls After off-loading boards the from the branch, Burl and I rolledthe
Youcanrcmove boadas ifs cut,or leave each themin place slice whole before pulling boads. and the log the

straight sectionof trunk onto the loadingarms.Then it wasmy turn to give this machine try. a

Burl had skillfully manipulated several levers at once when he loaded the branch, positioning the log easily with the turning claw, toe boards, and clamps. My effort with the trunk was a lot less graceful (downright clumsy in fact). But I soon had the log clampedin position and stood back to admire how easily this machine had moved a 20rldiameterlog measuring over 8 ft. in length, guided by the hands of a rank amateur (see Taking a Turn at the Sawmill's Controls). My hands were already sweating, and it only got worse when I grabbed the controls to make the first cul I decided to flat-saw the trunk to get the widest boards possible. From the start, my adjustments of the band saw carriage were awlsrard, and I quickly found out that I had to learn how to walk along with the carriage while simuL taneously governing the saw's feed rate and moving the blade guides to keep support close to the log (Figure 7). Burl made it sound as simple as walking and chewing gum at the same time. I prefer to

Taking Turn theSawmill's a at Controls

At first glance the Wood-Mizer LT4O Super Hydraulic looks like a comolicated machine. lt is complex, but its simple controls, hydraulic log positioners, and its strong engine make it amazingly easy to run. With no more than 15 minutes of coaching, I was confidently sawing logs into lumber. lt's a machine that demands respect, but earns it as well.

you roll onb Once manually a log the loading you use LT40's arms, can the hydnulics liftit onbthemill's b skids.

Byoperating theselevenyoucanload, tum,clamp, level logusing and a power hydraulic instead yourback. of

A hydraulic tumer log rchtes as logs long 2l-ft. andupto 3-ft.across. as Hydraulic clamps securc log. the

The above contrcls contrcls wift thesaw move cariage A lagerule the shona youwalk over stationary as the log along depthof-cut both in inches quarten and - thethickness contrclling cutting depth speed. and sbndard hadwoods. br

60

W'orkbench June 1998 I

splitting. Then I stacked the lumber in my garage,spacedwith thin wood strips called stickersto allowair to circulate. Air-drying The Moment of Trufh woodcantake up to oneyearper inch of Aftersawing firsttrunksection, thickness. the
and building confidence at the mill's controls, I furned my attenYou Cqn Do it Too tion to the section containing the If you've got a large stand of crotch. I would finally see if it con- treesto convertintolumber. a cealedthe wild figure I'd hoped for. portable mill may be a After each cut, I shut down the good investment.You mill to look at the newly exposed can own a Wood-Mizer wood. For the first few cuts, not LT15 mill for around much appeared.Then, on the fifth S4,500. doesn'thaveall It cut, I brushed offthe dust and saw the hydraulicsor the cutspectacular figure. I cut three 8/4 ting capacityof the LT-40, slabs that I might use to build table but otherwise the setup is tops. Two more 4/4 pieces showed similar.Going all out for the the same pattern before the wild LT40 will set you back about figure petered out. You'llfindotherWoodS25,000. pricedin between. Now I know why this wood Mizer models brings a premium price. In a Other nameplatesyou'll find crotch of at least 2Orr-diameter, on portable I bandsawmills include got only five slabs having this TimberKingandLumbermate. coveted wood figure. For the less ambitious, recomI

think that it's a lot like driving a car - there's a lot on your mind at the beginning, but it all becomes second nature with practice.

I coated the ends of each plank with latex paint to prevent them from drying too quickly and

mend calling Wood-Mizer or

Good Wood from Wqste TimberKing to get the names of With surprising speedand little sawyers your areawho can mill in sweat mypart,thismillhrrned logs at your site. Ratesvary by on a
fee destined the firewoodpile for into enough boardfeetof lumberto build many projects.Of course,it will be a while beforethe wood is dry enoughto use. region,tree species, and accessibility. Onceyou have a sawyeron hand, treat him well - you may get to take a cut or two with your handson the controls.ffi

You don'thave shape logintoa cant.0n a trunksection, flattened edge to a Dave one of thelog,thenflipped over flat-sawed rest create it and the to wide,rcugh-edged boads.

NewTool Offerings
Stanlet's Hot New Glue Gun
For a long time, I didn't think much of hot melt glue guns. My first experiences with them convinced that me light-duty craft applications were all they could everbe good for. Serious sorts of projectsrequiredglueswith longerset times and superiorbonding capabilities. The new Glue Pro glue gun from StanleyFasteningSystems(a division of The StanleyWorks) is one reason I've begunto changemy mind.This is a tool with lots of potentialuses aroundthe houseand shop. The GluePro comeswith three typesof glue sticks (six of eachtype). The All Purpose, DualTemperature, and SuperStength glues are formulated for different usesranging from simple repairs to reattaching countertoplaminates. Stanleyoffers more glue stick varietiesfor use on wood,plastic,and other materials. The Glue Pro gun itself is a serious tool. Its integratedfold-downstand allowsyou to set the gun downwithout creatinga messof glue.The nozzlegaardprotectsagainstburns to you andyour workpiece.Tb decrease the risk of biggerburns (fires,that is), the GluePro shuts off automatically if left unused morethan 15minutes. for More than a safetyfeature,this increases life spanof the gun's the heaterelementaswell. A high/low temperatureswitch (80or 40 watts)givesyou increased control, and optional nozzlesare avail ableto help you direct glue whereyou want it to go. The GluePro glue gun sellsfor around$30. For more informationor to find a retailerin your area,you cancall The StanleyWorks at (800) 343-9329.

Saw Feahrres Tool-Free Blade Changes,Two Handle Styles

Somepeoplepreferusing a jig saw with a handle on top (known as a Dhandlestyle), while others prefer jig the no-handled, barrel-style saws. Hitachi PowerTools (a division of Hitachi Koki U.SA, Ltd.) has intro duceda jig sawwith a numberof handyfeatures, and ifs available in a D-handlestyle(modelCJ110\4 andbarrel-style(modelCJ110VA) to suit either preference. The sawhas a 12Gvo1t, S.2-arnp motor. Cutting speedis elecfonically variablefrom 300to 7200strokes per minute.You can cut through woodup 1o2rlrrlthickandmetalas thick as 3/srr. Both are capable of orbital or vertical cutting. Simplifuingblade changesis the goal behindthe saws'blade chuck. Without any tools, you can lock and release bladesby hand- a nice feature, especiallywhen working away from the shop. Tilting the basefor bevel cuts also requiresno tools,just a furn of a leverbelowthe saw body.The base, madeof castaluminum to help keep weight down,has a steelinsert for increased durability. The sawcomes with a clear plastic guard that surroundsthe bladeto stop flying splinters. You'llalsofind three bladesin the kit. Available accessories includea circle cutting guide, straightedgeguide,a dust collection adapter,and a plastic baseto prevent marring your workpiece. As of presstime, retail pricesfor the sawhad not beenset.For more information call Hitachi Power Tools at (800) 54G1666.

62

W'orkbenchI June 1998

Bits Get a l0tfi Birthday Bash

Black & Deckeris commemorating the 10thbirthday of its Bullet Pilot PointDrill Bits by offeringa set of 20 bits in a casefor a suggested retail price of $20.The set contains bits from l/ro'Lthrough r/2"-diameter, includingtwo eachof the six smallest sizes. bit The construction a Bullet bit is of similarto that of a brad point bit. At the Bullet'stip is a sharppoint designed cut quickly into the to materialto keepthe bit from wanderingoff its mark.The bit's main body has two deepflutesand cutting edgeswith a steepshearangle for an aggressive cutting action. Black& Deckerclaimsthat Bullet bits, when compared conventionto al twist bits, drill twice asfast in wood andfour timesfasterin metal. I didn't do timed tests,but did drill accurate holesin wood quickly usingthesebits. The set comesin a plasticcase that hasmarkedholesfor eachbit to standin, and a clearcover.Call Black & Deckerat (800)54+6986.
---z

The Swiss Army Knife of Squares

Tbols suchasmultifunctionpliers,or campingkniveswith more pointsthan a porwin cupine, fansbecause they combinemanyfeatures into a singlepackage. Now there'sthe BearSquare, carpenter's a tool that combines functions a 6rl the of speed square, speed 12rr square, a combination square,and a framing package. squareinto one spaceage When I first sawthis square,I wasn't surewhat to makeof its odd shape, nor could I decipherall thosenumbers. But after a few minuteswith the tool and its well-writteninsfuction manual,I easilylearnedits functions. A retractable on the l2rllong tab arm allowsusingthe tool as a standard squareor straightedgeguide. The Grllong arm hastwo scales, one for measurements, anotherthat and alignswith holesspaced every l,/srr. placinga pencilin any hole and By

slidingthe 7 square alongthe edgeof a board,you can scribeparallellines. A few of the tool'sother functionsincludemarkingangles, rafterandroof pitches, bird's-mouth cutouts,andledgerboardnotches. for Madeof l,exanpolycarbonate durability,the squaresellsfor $28.Its pocket-size manualhaschartswith Call commoncarpenfy calculations. BearSquare (770)857-8399. at

Ryobi Drills into DIY Market

Ryobiis now offeringfour new cordlessdrills targetedat people with occasional drillins needsand a modestbudget.With suggested pricesbetween and $100,and a $49 powerrangefrom G to12-volts, these drills shouldgive low-priced corded modelsa run for the money. All four HP Seriesdrills sharea long list of features a reversible motor,keylesschuck, 24positionclutch,a center T-handledesignwith a no-slipgrip, and a carrying case. The 12-and 9.Gvolt modelshavevariable speeds(G550 rpm), and eachcomeswith two battery packsand a threehour charger. The 7.2-volt modelhastwo drilling l speeds(300/500 rpm) and a singlebattery, plus the charger. The star of the showmay be the Gvoltdrill. At just $49,it has the same clutch and keylesschuckfeaturesas the others,two speeds(300/500 rpm), and a built-inbattery.It comes with a rechargerand evenincludesa 2&pieceaccessory For anyone kit. wantinga basichousehold drill, this is hard to beat.Call RyobiAmerica 52S2579. Corp.at (800)

64

\Torkbench June 1998 r

For Products )bur H-orne

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House Paints Formulated for Climate

On anygiven day,the temperatures andweatherare not likely to be the samein Pittsburghas they are in Phoenixor St. Louis.That'sbecause eachcity lies in a differentregion of the country,and as a result may be subjectto vastlydifferentclimatic conditions. exteriorpaintshave Yet the sameformulasregardessentially lessof where they're sold.The same paintis expected hold up to the to dry heatof Phoenixaswell it toleratesPittsburgh's cold,rain, and snow. Dutch Boy Paintssawthis as a shortcomingand decidedpaintswould perform better if eachwasformulated to meetthe needs a particular of region. a result,DutchBoy scienAs tists havedividedthe countrv into five a climatezones,and developed ClimateGuardlatexpaintfor eachone. The five regionsDutch Boy settled on are Northwest,Northeast, Southeast. Sunbelt. and Heartland. For example, Northwestformulahas extra solidsto resistmoisfureand mildewand standup to heavyrains. The Sunbeltformulais meantto withstandsunlightexposure that can causepaintto fadeand crack. ClimateGuardpaintsare available in flat or semi-gloss. are tintableto All matchany of Dutch Boy'scolors.Or you canhavethe paintmixesmadeto matchyour home'sexistingcolor scheme. Eachof the five formulas retailsfor around$20per gallon.Call Dutch Boy at (800) 82&5669.

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Lawn Machine Vacuums, Blows, Mulches

lawn blower and vacuumcombination machines reallyspeed yard can up cleanupchores.But switching betweenblower and vacuumfunctions is sometimes complicated. Often, changingbetweenfunctionsrequires switchingtubesbetweenthe intake and exhaustports and installingor removingthe vacuumbag. In the worst cases this requiresusingtools. No big deal,but taking extra time defeatsthe whole purposebehind thesemachines. Anew ElecfficBlower-Vac from RyobiOutdoorPowerTbols makes switching between functions lesscoma plicatedtask.You don't haveto change anypartsor disassemble machine. the All you do is throw a large lever on the Ryobi'ssideto openor closeoneof the machine'stwo air channels a large for diameter channel vacuuming, a and smalleronefor blowing. As a blower,the Ryobipushes a streamof air throughthe smallchannel at 155mph - enoughpowerto push wet leaves andmatteddebris. Flip the lever,andyou closeoff the blower channeland openthe larger Now it can diametervacuumchannel. suck leaves and debrisinto the collectionbag.And because this machine mulches ratio, debrisat a 10:1 it meansmore of what you pick up goesin the bag beforeit needsto be A emptied. largezipperrunning the full length of the bag'sbottomedgemakes it easierto emptythe contents. The Blower-Vac a 11Gvolt, has l2-ampmotor.Havinga cord might makeit more cumbersome usethan to a cordlessmodel,but it ensures the powerand motor has adequate unlimitedrun-time.Havingtwo handles, shoulderstrap,andweigha ing only 9-1b., machineis easy this to carry.
You'll find the Ryobi Electric Blower-Vac (model RESV1300) in home centers for around $90. For more information you can call Ryobi '# Outdoor Products at

(800) 345-8746.

66

Workbench June 1998 I

Man-made Lattice Has Wood Look

Ite alwaysshiedawayfrom using plasticlatticeon my projectsbecause I wasunimpressed with the way theseproductstried to look like wood.But afterbattlingto cut and applyfinish to real woodlatticeon a fenceI built last fall, I decidedto take anotherlook at plasticlatticebefore taking on anothersimilarproject.I waspleased seesomeof the newer to designs, suchas Dimensions Weave lattice by Tuff-Bilt Products(a divisionof Plastics Research Corp.) imitatewoodvery convincingly. panelsmeasure Dimensions Weave 4 ft. x 8 ft., just like woodlattice,and canbe cut to shape. Unlike woodlattice, though,the product'sone-piece moldedconstruction keepsit from comingapartwhile you clt. Zero maintenance the other bonusis polyethylene the durablehigh-density (HDPE)plasticnever needsa protective finish like most
wood panelsdo. The lattice is

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available tinted to match outdoor woodssuchas cedarandredwood.and in a varietyof other colors. Dimensions Weave retailsfor around

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The Rubbermaid Deck Box is designed solvea problem to people most with deckfurnitureface- where to storecushions outdooraccessories. and The box is 42rr wide,24ttdeep, 24rr and high, andaccommodates thick cushions. four Double wall, moldedplasticconstructionmakesit sturdy enoughto hold firewood.The Deck Box is availablein severalcolorsand sellsfor around$70. CallRubbermaid at (800)6433490. Inc.

to have the garden you've always wanted with a DP BOTO TTLLERlPOWER COMPOSTEB!

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One Dressed Up Step Stool

name, The Penguin PlafformIadder may sport a strange WernerLadderCo., but according the manufacturer, to it's loadedwith features that makeit superiorto previous designs. Foremost the ladder's"feet,"the are stepstool
likely inspiration for the Penguin name. They stick out to the sides for extra stability, and have non-marring, slipresistant soles.The ladder also has wide steps and a large plafform designed for better stability, plus hinges that won't pinch your fingers when you fold in the legs. Aluminum legs keep the ladder lightweight but strong, and a removable tool caddy holds a gallon can of paint. Two-step and three-step models are available for around $60 and $100, respectively.Call Werner ladder Co. at (847) 455-9450.

Wood-Framed Mirror Doors

views Slidingclosetdoorswith mirrors providefuIl-length and cancomplement room by creatingthe illusionof a plain,and more space. the door foames sometimes But are they don't alwaysmix well with existingwoodwork. To answerthe call,Stanley Home Decorhasintroduced a line of slidingmirrored doorswith fancierfeatures mirrors. real woodframesandbeveled-glass
Stanley's 425 Series 6u" 2t/2tt-wideframes in mahogany, cherry, knotty pine, and two oak finishes. The 440 Series frames are 4rr-widewith cherry or mahogany finishes, and a V-groove detail in the mirror. Prices vary from $20G 3350 for the 425 series. for and 3300-3500 the 440 series,dependingon the wood and door size. Call Stanley Home Decor at (800)345-1397.

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Desks, Tables & Chairs

Desks. Tbbles Chain,the and latestin theWoodsmith Collection'". highlight We ten projects froma of ourmostcelebrated roll-top desk a computer and desk, ladderto project backchairs dining and tables. Every is accompanied shop-tested by techniques and jigsthatwin give professional-looking you ha.rdbound, results. pages, 96

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'Workbench I June 1998

Painter'sLigftt
Paintingunderpoor lighting conditionsmakesit difficult to get complete,evencoverage. bright But lights that createharsh shadowsand glare make paintingtougher still. To help eliminatetheseproblems, Regentlighting Corp.introducedthe Painterrs Light. It uses a halogenbulb behinda frosted lens to produce diftusedlight with lessglare and softershadows.The $30 fixture has a twoposition switch (150or 300watts), and ifs desisnedto -aI showtruecolors.Call IRegentlighting L .(800) 3346871.

Power Goes Out, Hght Turns On

The last time I neededa flashlightat homewasduring a power so aftersunset, just the occurred tailure.Of course, outage finding the flashlightwasa challenge. \\ at Someone Black & Deckermay havehad \\ leadingthe compaexperience, a similar ny to developits newVersaPak Light. Stormlight Home Emergency sits in a base flashlight This rechargeable that doublesasa chargerand canbe mountedto the wall.When the electicity goesout, the light automatically turns on, so you canfind it without fumbling in the dark. with oneVersaPak \ The light comesequipped providesup to two hours of illuminabattery that the For tion on a full charge. a longerrun-time, batteries basecanhold and chargetwo VersaPak (Youhaveto purchase second the simultaneously. battery separately.) The Stormlight usesa bright krypton bulb and or bezelthat allowsyou to broaden hasan adjustable sharpen light'sbeam. the Retailcostis around$36.To find out more,you can 54,f6986. call Black& Deckerat (800)

7----*

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Number 176 Product lnformation

Two Saws
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site construction in Califorma Walkontoa residential chancesare you'll find the carpenter using a and worm-drive circular saw Visit a similar site on the Eastcoast, you canbet that a buildertherewill be and sidewindersaw.In fact, you may using a helical-gear, referred evenhear the two typesof sawsrespectively EastCoastframer'ssaws. to asWestCoastand While the lines of this regionalpreferencehave blurred a little overtime,this taleof two sawsbegan the leftin the 1920's.Skil, which first developed 1924,was located in bladed worm-drive saw in then based in New York, Chicago.Porter-Cable, introducedthe first sidewinderin 1929and put the bladeon the right sideto avoidpatentinfringement. Giventhe difficultiesof nationalmarketingand dison concentrated tribution in that era,eachcompany - Skil in the growing west and different markets in Porter-Cable the familiareast. Simple geographyand market distributiongave when the however, especially way to trade practice, post-World War II construction the GI Bill spawned put of boom.As contractors up thousands homes they trainedapprentice in America's suburbs, with the tools they were accuscarpenters tomedto using.As the trainingcyclerepeated
itself in the decadesthat followed, this tool preference was passedalong to succeeding generations of builders. Although Porter-Cable later introduced a left-bladedsidewinder to compete more direct-

the I ly with worm-drives, MississippiRiver still f existsasthe Mason-Dixon of circularsaws. line

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