Professional Documents
Culture Documents
http://www.instructables.com/id/Advanced-USB-Device-Charger/
Image Notes 1. LT1301 2. Input Cap (100uF 6,3V LOW ESR) 3. Inductor (10uH 0,03R 2,4A) 4. Schottky Rectifier (SB130> 1A @ 30V) 5. LED with Resistor (390R, LED current limited to 8mA to avoid to much output lost by the LED, LED is connected to 5V output) 6. Output Cap (100uF 6,3V LOW ESR) 7. USB Con 8. Power Switch 9. To Batteries (2xAA Nihm rechargeable batteries or alkaline (not recomended, they provide not enough current, and they are not environmentally friendly...)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Advanced-USB-Device-Charger/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Advanced-USB-Device-Charger/
step 4: Finished!
So now its done, but before connecting it to any usb device, be sure that it works properly! (the voltage should be 5 volts, the LED only should glow,etc...) When all is checked and you are sure that everything works you can (if you like it) start to put hot melt around it as kind of protection. In case you don't like hot melt you can put the device into a match box or everything you want... on the left side of the picture you see an older version on the right you see the newer smaller, enhanced version Some Technical data: Input: 1,5 to 3 volts Output: 5 Volts @ 200mA max. (really enough to charge an iPod mini or a mobile phone, trust me ;-) ) Watts and efficiency: In: 0,95W at 2,5 V Out: 0,875W at 5 V loss: 0,075W 8 percent loss 92% efficiency
http://www.instructables.com/id/Advanced-USB-Device-Charger/
Related Instructables
Advertisements Customized Instructable T-shirts
Comments
30 comments Add Comment
titlert says:
Where could i buy the parts? I looked on radioshack.com and they werent there. Where did you get your stuff?
mikes80501 says:
Try Digikey for almost anything electronic. There are minimum amounts to order or they add a service charge. You'll want to order a bunch of things for best money efficiency.
phephq says:
im looking at linear technology's product catalog. I see four LT1301 models. LT1301CN8 LT1301CS8 LT1301IN8 LT1301IS8 are they all compatible or is there a certain one to get? (http://www.linear.com/samples/orderSamples.jsp?navId=H0,C1,C1003,C1042,C1031,C1060,P1450)
mikes80501 says:
I is Industrial temperature range. C is Commercial temperature range. Industrial is wider but you won't need it, it costs more and is harder to get.
solis365 says:
Mar 16, 2009. 12:45 PM REPLY look at the datasheets, they are very likely to be different packages. if you look on that site you linked, theres a column labeled "package," and you'll notice two types: SO and PDIP. The PDIP (Plastic Dual-Inline Package) is the kind of chip you'll want - with long leads that can fit into a breadboard and are much easier for the hobbyist to solder (through-hole soldering). The other package, SO, is a type of surface mount technology. It cannot fit in a breadboard, and is not a "through hole" component, i.e. you'll need to have a pcb with the right traces laid out and a surface mount soldering station (could be done with a regular iron if you're talented.) In short, get one of the PDIP packages. I looked at the datasheets for the CN8 vs. the IN8, they were identical. I would look a little deeper on the internet for the difference, but I'm short on time at the moment and I don't think its anything youll care about for this project. Maybe a different fabrication or revision or something. happy hunting
Moto13 says:
Mar 29, 2009. 6:50 PM REPLY Could a 1302 be interchanged w/ no mods? I realize it needs slightly higher V_IN_MIN, but want the higher 600mA output... the pins/pkg seem the same, and same family.. so can I just swap it in? Thanks
http://www.instructables.com/id/Advanced-USB-Device-Charger/
Seraph101 says:
Feb 20, 2009. 7:28 PM REPLY Lets assume your device only needs 3v and you have 2 AA batteries. Would you even need a voltage regulation circuit like this? Or similarly you have a 5v battery. Isn't small voltage regulation built into the device anyway, enough to handle a few millivolts.
phephq says:
Jan 6, 2009. 5:07 PM REPLY I am having a great deal of difficulty finding the correct parts for this, could you reference me to the place or places that you got your parts or a place or places that I could get them? 'twould be super
oblivtion1 says:
does this work with the iPod Touch?
Jun 8, 2008. 4:18 AM REPLY This is really cool. I'm also tired of those 9V battery LM7808 regulator circuits. Too bad, the LT1301 aren't available in my country.
PhantomGamer says:
Dec 19, 2008. 5:16 AM REPLY OK, I will bite. What is wrong with the 9v, 7805 regulator circuits? They, too, will allow for over/under and with the 9v, would you not get a slightly longer life? For instance, my Sansa View would play off the 9v charger longer than 2AAA? The ONE advantage I see here is the under-volt pull-up that will suck the batteries dry. (I carry plenty of 9v rechargables for the 9v Charger when on a trip).
Dec 19, 2008. 6:27 PM REPLY The problem with 7805 regulators is that they have a low effeciency. More power is lost to heat then with this method. And just because 9v batteries have higher voltages than AAs doesn't mean they will last longer. They have less mah (milliamp hours) than AAs. (more mah=longer run time)
dude300 says:
Dec 11, 2008. 12:12 PM REPLY could you possible add a image of what goes where on the bread board coz i don't understand the image that is already there
TheInventor says:
You just copied the minty boost instructable.
flashlight_nut3777 says:
not necessarily, the LT1301 has been around longer than the minty
if you notice the schematic provided above you should immediately notice the absence of the 0.1uF bypass tantalums used for high frequency filtering. In addition, the Mintyboost version 2 uses a 22uH ferrite core inductors for low EMI and low core loss and also allows the minty boost circuit to operate at a higher current (400 versus the 200 depicted here) Furthermore, the mintyboost has the pull-up/down capability to recharge gadgets that require current output from one of the central data pins. so no, this is NOT a copy of the mintyboost, but an imitation or perhaps a variance of the design. :)
polo99a9 says:
Sep 26, 2008. 2:50 PM REPLY great job, I think. I made a usb charging device in a much simpler way. I connected 4 AAA batteries in series, without any other electronics. it works great, and it is very simple. I charge my psp, my camera and my mp4 this way. why is yours so complicated? what is the advantage?
VV.Core. says:
Sep 27, 2008. 10:07 AM REPLY When you take 4 aa or aaa batteries you get and output voltage of 6 volts when they are full. (a bit to much for an usb devide!) the discharge graph of an alkaline batterie is linear so if you discharged them 50% the voltage will be about 50% of 1,5 volts lower = 0,75 volts, this is 3 volts for 4 batteries. 3 volts are not enough for an usb device to charge (you need at least a minimal voltage of 5 volts +- 0,3 volts) so you cannot really use the full capacity of your batteries. on the other hand nickel metal hydrid accus have a pretty constant discharge behaviour they deliver about most of the discharge time an voltage around 1,2 volts, this is usefull for photo cameras or portable devices with high power consumption. one of the key benefits of the LT 1301is that it has the ability to suck out near everything of the batteries or accus. the LT 1301 is a switching power supply, by switching the power on/off at a very high frequency it can produce 5 volts ouput at 2,4 volts input, by changing the config of the outer circuit you can even reach 12 volts! To resume the advantages: you only need two batteries, the batteries are really empty after use, it opperates at high efficiency (92%), you will not risk to damage your precious (psp) equipment because the output voltage will not exceed 5 volts. i hope you have understand why I prefer the more complicated mehtod... if you still have question you're welcome to ask.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Advanced-USB-Device-Charger/
VV.core.
polo99a9 says:
Sep 28, 2008. 6:13 AM REPLY OK...I will probably make one, and i will try to test the differences between the two models. thanks for a elaborate answer, i understand now.
Derin says:
yay thank you
Derin says:
just what i needed
mutantxgene says:
Jun 23, 2008. 2:08 PM REPLY Please forgive my newbie question. I'm trying to make something like this based on these two instructables but use a solar cell and rechargeable batteries. http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Cell-Phone-Charger-made-from-old-parts-and-a/ http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-A-Handheld-Solar-Power-Supply/ I have a 6v 100ma cell. How/could you wire the solar cell to this? Thanks!
alex-sharetskiy says:
Jul 22, 2008. 8:44 AM REPLY get one landscaping light, make sure iy's powered by TWO AAs then just attach this circuit to the batteries, and ta-da usb charger
ElectronicsPro says:
They Wont let you bring that on an airplane!
VV.Core. says:
Jul 8, 2008. 2:57 PM REPLY That's right :-) I tested it by putting it near to an old midwave radio. You could hear the switch noise very clear... So it could probably interfere with the plane radio
nerdzilla says:
(removed by author or community request)
VV.Core. says:
Jun 30, 2008. 8:19 AM REPLY Hey! copying is simple but I do NOT copy, pfff... You can take a closer look on my Instructable and you'll see it's based on an other chip and an other circuit... I decided to publish this instructable because I wasn't able to buy/find the Maxim chip in my country. Maybe there are others who have the same problem? So why don't you agree that's better to have more options, I do not force you to use my instructable, if you like it fine, if not you are free to build a minty boost.
joejoerowley says:
Cool! Great Instructable! Thanks Joe
Patrik says:
Jun 8, 2008. 11:17 AM REPLY Looks good! Here's another classic implementation of this idea, this time using a MAX756, which is pretty much equivalent to the LT1301: MintyBoost! - Small battery-powered USB charger
Stax says:
thanks! will you add a couple closeup photos of the board, please?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Advanced-USB-Device-Charger/