1

Table of Contents
Description
Introduction Disassembly/Assembly Instructions Casting systems Hex Thru Axle Installation Noble Air system Service Instructions MRD Damping system Service Instructions Technical Data Service Kit Matrix Fork Torque Specs Trouble shooting Tips

Page
3 4- 9 9 10 - 15 16 - 26 27 28 29 30 - 31

Contact Information Hayes Bicycle Group

Tech Support 6750 W. Florist Ave. Milwaukee, WI. 53218 Toll Free: Direct: FAX: E-mail: Web site: (888) 686-3472 (414) 462-0021 (414) 462-0214 hayestech@hayesbicycle.com www.manitoumtb.com

INTRODUCTION
This manual is intended to guide the user through basic service of Manitou front forks. Service is supported by the identification of common parts and assemblies that have been assembled into Service Kits. The purpose of this manual will be to describe conditions that may drive the need for service and to provide installation instructions for the kits. Due to the time-consuming nature of suspension fork service, at this time our primary focus is to offer service kits that minimize the amount of downtime and labor involved.

Important information is highlighted in this manual by the following notations: WARNING Failure to follow WARNING instructions could result in severe injury or death to the person inspecting or repairing the suspension fork or the user. CAUTION A CAUTION a caution indicates special precautions that must be taken to avoid damage to the product. NOTE A NOTE provides key information to make procedures easier or clearer

GENERAL WARNING: Suspension forks by design can contain preloaded springs, gases and fluids under extreme pressure and warnings contained in this manual must be observed to reduce the possibility of injury or possible death. Following these instructions can help you reduce the risk of being injured. Any questions in regards to the information in this manual should be directed to HBG Tech Support at (888) 686-3472. WARNING: Suspension forks uses preloaded spring(s) to provide compression spring resistance. This system must be relieved of preload prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result in injury or possible death. CAUTION: Suspension forks use precision machined aluminum and other soft alloy components. Using correct tools for assembly is essential to prevent damage.

MRD Casting Service

Includes Semi Bath change, seal change, and casting change
Tool List: 12mm wrench, 1.5mm Allen, 7mm Allen, Park Green Pin Spanner (or similar), Shock Pump

WARNING: This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and must be relieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result in injury or possible death.

1. Using a shock pump slowly release the air pressure from the Noble Air System through the valve on the bottom of the left fork leg. Please Note: When the air is removed too rapidly, it will cause air to be trapped in the negative air chamber causing the fork to "suck down". If this happens, it is easily fixed by pumping up the air spring back up above the pressure that you originally had in the system and then release the air slowly

2. Remove the 12mm nut from the compression rod on the bottom of the left leg.

3. Remove the blue rebound knob on the bottom of the right leg with a 1.5mm Allen wrench. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as they are very small and easily lost.

4. Remove the detent balls and springs from the Detent Housing.

5. Remove the Detent housing by unscrewing it counter-clockwise using a green Park Tool pin spanner (or similar tool) inserted into the holes that the springs and detent balls sit in.

6. Using a 7mm Allen wrench, usnscrew the rebound assembly from the casting by turning it clockwise.

7. Pull the casting off the Crown Steerer assembly. It is best to do this over some type of drip pan to catch the semi-bath that is in the outer legs. Throughly clean out the casting to get any contamiated oil and dirt out. If you are changing the fork seals, proceed to the next step, if not go to step 13.

8. To remove the dust seals, first remove the seal tension springs (otherwise they will get damaged), then take a large flat-bladed screwdriver and insert the tip between the bottom of the seal and the top of the foam wiper.

9. Push down on the screwdriver. This will pop the seal out of the casting. Next remove the foam oil ring.

10. Oil the foam rings (new or after cleaning the old rings) with a small amount of semi-bath oil and place them in the top of the casting above the Upper Bushings.

11. Install the dust seal into the leg, use a large socket or piece of round tubing that is large enough in diameter to press on the outside shoulder of the seal rather than putting pressure on the sealing lip and spring so that they are not damaged. Repeat steps 9-12 for the opposite fork leg.

12. Extend the compression rod and the rebound shaft fully, check to see if the face seal on the rebound shaft and the o-ring on the compression rod are damaged. If so, replace them, otherwise it is OK to reuse them.

Pinched

13. Slide the casting onto the stanchions being careful not to pinch the lip on the dust seals. Once the seals are on the legs slide the legs down about 3/4 of the way down.

Correct

14. Hold the fork at approximately a 45 degree angle with the drop outs up. Using a squeeze bottle or syringe put 16cc(16ml) of Semi Bath (5w40 synthetic oil) into each leg of the fork. Be careful that the oil is not poured into the end of the rebound shaft or the air valve on the end of the compression rod. After the Semi Bath is in each leg, slide the casting down the rest of the way until the casting makes contact with the rebound shaft.

15. Using the 7mm Allen, turn the rebound shaft counter-clockwise to screw the rebound assembly into the casting. Tighten it to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m). Note:You may need to put a slight amount side pressure on the Allen wrench and pull out on the rebound shaft to get it to start in the casting. Warning: Do not overtighten the rebound damper assembly into the casting, it will cause damage to the sealing o-ring on the end of the shaft and cause the semi bath oil to leak out of the casting. It is recommended to use a torque wrench when tightening this assembly.

16. Screw the detent assembly clockwise on to the portion of thread of the rebound shaft that protrudes out of the casting. Using a tool like the Park Tool Pin Spanner and the 7mm Allen wrench, tighten the Detent Housing in a clockwise direction while holding the rebound shaft stationary with the Allen wrench. Tighten the Detent Housing to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).

17. Insert a small spring into each of the holes on the detent assembly, apply a small amount of grease on top of the spring to hold the detent balls, and then place a detent ball on top of each spring.

18. Place the blue rebound knob on the needle in the rebound assembly and attach it with the machine screw using the 1.5mm wrench. Tighten it to 5-8inlbs (.6-.9N-m) and be sure to use blue LocTite on the threads.

19. Install the 12mm nut that secures the compression rod in the left fork leg. Tighten it in a clockwise direction to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m). If there is not a washer located under the 12mm nut, place a thin washer onto the exposed threaded shaft protruding through the casting before you reinstall the nut.

20. Pressurize the main spring by turning your bike upside down, install the air pump on to the schrader valve and then inflate to the pressure that you normally use. Now, go have a great ride!

32mm Leg Thru Axle and Quick Release Thru Axle Instructions

Standard Hex Thru Axle Removal Instructions Removal of Hex Thru Axle
1. Loosen the two 3mm clamp-fixing bolts on the right fork leg. (See Fig. 1) 2. Remove the Thru Axle nut from the right side of the Thru Axle. 3. Loosen the two 3mm clamp-fixing bolts on the left fork leg. 4. Push the Hex Thru Axle out of the dropouts from left to right and completely remove it and the front wheel from the fork.

Assembly Instructions
Fig. 1

Installation of Hex Thru Axle

1. 2. 3. 4. Insert the Clamp Nuts (See Fig.3 A) into the small hexagonal hole in each of the drop outs. Start two clamp fixing bolts (See Fig.3 C) in each dropout. Do not tighten these bolts down at this time Hold the wheel between the dropouts of the fork. Insert Hex Thru Axle small hex first into the outside of the left drop out (as you are facing the fork) and push it through the hub of the wheel, and into the right drop out. Thread the Thru Axle nut into the end of the axle that is in the right drop out. Thread the Thru Axle nut all of the way in. Tighten the 3mm clamp fixing bolts to the specified torque value Push down on the fork a few times to allow the hub to center. Tighten the 3mm clamp fixing bolts to the specified torque value as called out in Technical Specification Chart at the end of this manual. (See Fig 1) Finish the installation by tightening axle nut to specified torque (See Fig 2)

5. Fig. 2 6.

7.

Fig. 3

MRD Noble Air System Service

Includes complete disassembly and service of the air spring system
Tool List: 12mm wrench, 15mm wrench, 20mm socket, 1.5mm Allen, 7mm Allen, Park Green Pin Spanner (or

WARNING: This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and must be relieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result in injury or possible death.

1. Using a shock pump slowly release the air pressure from the Noble Air System through the valve on the bottom of the left fork leg. Please Note: When the air is removed too rapidly, it will cause air to be trapped in the negative air chamber causing the fork to "suck down". If this happens, it is easily fixed by pumping up the air spring back up above the pressure that you originally had in the system and then release the air slowly

2. Remove the 12mm nut from the compression rod on the bottom of the left leg.

3. Remove the blue rebound knob on the bottom of the right leg with a 1.5mm Allen wrench. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as they are very small and easily lost.

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4. Remove the Detent balls and springs from the Detent Housing.

5. Remove the Detent housing by unscrewing it counter-clockwise using a green Park Tool pin spanner (or similar tool) inserted into the holes that the springs and detent balls sit in.

6. Using a 7mm Allen wrench, usnscrew the rebound assembly from the casting by turning it clockwise.

7. Pull the casting off the crown steerer assembly. It is best to do this over some type of drip pan to catch the semi-bath that is in the casting. Thoroughly clean out the casting to get any contaminated oil and dirt out. If the fork seals need to be serviced, please reference the casting service instructions for details. If you are planning to service the damping system please reference those instructions.

8. Use a 15mm wrench to remove the compression rod from the bottom of the left fork leg. There may be oil in the area between the endcap and the piston (only a few cc/ml) so use caution when pulling the assembly from the fork leg. Also it is normal to have a slight amount of negative pressure when removing the assembly.

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9. Inspect the quad seal (might be an o-ring) and piston glide ring for wear or damage and replace if any is found. Pay special attention to the area of the quad seal that was moving over the negative spring charge slot, as this is where you might see possible damage. It will appear like the image as two small areas that are approximately 1mm wide gouged out of the sealing lips of the quad ring.

10. Using a 20mm socket, remove the top cap and air spring compensator by turning it counter-clockwise.

11. The air spring compensator is a press fit on the end of the intermediate air piston, a sharp pull will separate the two pieces.

12. Even though the air spring compensator is not actively compressed by the compression rod and piston, over time this material will degrade and lose its effective spring rate from being compressed by the air pressure in the fork and will need to be replaced periodically. The 80mm R7 will use the 60mm long air spring compensator, all other MRD forks, R7100mm and both Minute 100 and 130mm, will use the shorter 40mm air spring compensator.

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13. Invert the fork, lightly grease the glide ring and quad seal on the air piston and also the o-ring on the end cap. Gently insert the piston into the left fork leg, it will ease the installation past the threads in the inner leg if you turn the assembly like screwing in a screw. When screwing the end cap into the leg watch to be sure that the o-ring does not catch on the edge of the leg. Torque the end cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m).

14. Turn the fork upright, and pour about 3-5cc of air piston oil (20w50 synthetic motor oil) on the top of the air piston, this will be just enough to cover the dish in the piston.

15. Attach the air spring compensator to the top cap assembly by pushing it on to the post on the bottom of the top cap air piston. Lightly grease the o-rings on the air piston and the top cap. Gently insert the piston into the left fork leg, it will ease the installation past the threads in the inner leg if you turn the assembly like screwing in a screw. Once the air piston is inside the leg you will meet some resistance trying to insert the assembly further as it will build up some air pressure in the system, this is normal. When screwing the endcap into the leg watch to be sure that the o-ring does not catch on the edge of the leg. Torque the top cap to 80inlbs.

16. Extend the compression rod and the rebound shaft fully, check to see if the face seal on the rebound shaft and the o-ring on the compression rod are damaged if so replace them, otherwise it is OK to reuse them.

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Pinched

17. Slide the casting onto the stanchions being careful not to pinch the lip on the dust seals. Once the seals are on the legs slide the legs down about 3/4 of the way down.

Correct

18. Hold the fork at approximately a 45 degree angle with the drop outs up. Using a squeeze bottle or syringe put 16cc(16ml) of semibath (5w40 synthetic oil) into each leg of the fork. Be careful that the oil is not poured into the end of the rebound shaft or the air valve on the end of the compression rod. After the semibath is in each leg, slide the casting down the rest of the way until the casting makes contact with the rebound shaft.

19. Using the 7mm Allen, turn the rebound shaft counter-clockwise to screw the rebound assembly into the casting. Tighten it to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m). Note:You may need to put a slight amount side pressure on the Allen wrench and pull out on the rebound shaft to get it to start in the casting. Warning: Do not overtighten the rebound damper assembly into the casting, it will cause damage to the sealing o-ring on the end of the shaft and cause the semi bath oil to leak out of the casting. It is recommended to use a torque wrench when tightening this assembly.

20. Screw the detent assembly clockwise on to the portion of thread of the rebound shaft that protrudes out of the casting. Using a tool like the Park Tool Pin Spanner and the 7mm Allen wrench, tighten the Detent Housing in a clockwise direction while holding the rebound shaft stationary with the Allen wrench. Tighten the Detent Housing to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).

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21. Insert a small spring into each of the holes on the detent assembly, apply a small amount of grease on top of the springs to hold the detent balls, and then place a detent ball on top of each spring.

22. Place the blue rebound knob on the needle in the rebound assembly and attach it with the machine screw using the 1.5mm wrench. Tighten it to 5-8inlbs (.6-.9N-m) and be sure to use blue LocTite on the threads.

23. Install the 12mm nut that secures the compression rod in the left fork leg.If there is not a washer located under the 12mm nut, place a thin washer onto the exposed threaded shaft protruding through the casting before you reinstall the nut.Tighten it in a clockwise direction to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).

24. Pressurize the main spring by turning your bike upside down, install the air pump on to the schrader valve and then inflate to the pressure that you normally use. Now, go have a great ride!

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MRD Damping Systems Service

Includes complete disassembly and service of the Various Damping Systems used in the
Tool List: 12mm wrench, 15mm wrench, 20mm socket, 24mm socket, 1.5mm Allen, 7mm Allen, Park Green Pin

WARNING: This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and must be relieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result in injury or possible death.

1. Using a shock pump slowly release the air pressure from the Noble Air System through the valve on the bottom of the left fork leg. Please Note: When the air is removed too rapidly, it will cause air to be trapped in the negative air chamber causing the fork to "suck down". If this happens, it is easily fixed by pumping up the air spring back up above the pressure that you originally had in the system and then release the air slowly

2. Remove the 12mm nut from the compression rod on the bottom of the left leg.

3. Remove the blue rebound knob on the bottom of the right leg with a 1.5mm Allen wrench. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as they are very small and easily lost.

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4. Remove the detent balls and springs from the Detent Housing.

5. Remove the Detent housing by unscrewing it counter-clockwise using a green Park Tool pin spanner (or similar tool) inserted into the holes that the springs and detent balls sit in.

6. Using a 7mm Allen wrench, unscrew the rebound assembly from the casting by turning it clockwise.

7. Pull the casting off the crown steerer assembly. It is best to do this over some type of drip pan to catch the semi-bath that is in the outer legs. Throughly clean out the casting to get any contamiated oil and dirt out. If the fork seals need to be serviced, please reference the casting service instructions for details. If you are planning to service the damping system please reference those instructions. For TPC forks proceed to the next step, for Absolute forks: proceed to step 11 and for RCT Lock-out forks: proceed to step 14

8. TPC Forks: Turn the TPC adjustment knob on top of the right side of the fork counter-clockwise until it reaches the travel limit. Using an 1.5mm allen wrench remove the screw in the center of the knob, turn the screw counter-clockwise to remove. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as they are very small and easily lost.

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9. Remove the detent balls and springs from the top of the assembly.

10. Using a 20mm socket remove the TPC compression assembly from the fork leg. As you pull the piston out of the damper body be cautious not to spill the oil. Once the TPC assembly is removed, pour the oil in the damper body out and dispose of it properly. Stroke the rebound shaft once or twice while doing this to ensure that all of the oil is removed. Continue to step 17 Warning: If the cartridge tube becomes dislodged as you remove the compression damper assembly, do not worry. The oil in that tube will drain into the inner leg and can be poured out of that leg. The press fit or the "squeeze" of the o-ring between the end cap and the tube may be too loose. This will require replacing the o-ring in the end cap.

11. Absolute forks: Turn the adjuster counter-clockwise until the damper is the fully open position. Using a 2mm allen remove the screw holding the knob on, turn the screw counter-clockwise to remove. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as they are very small and easily lost.

12. Remove the detent balls and springs from the top of the assembly.

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13. Using a 24mm socket, remove the Absolute compression assembly from the fork leg. As you pull the piston out of the damper body be cautious not to spill the oil. Once the Absolute assembly is removed, pour the oil in the damper body out and dispose of it properly. Stroke the rebound shaft once or twice while doing this to ensure that all of the oil is removed. Continue to step 17 Warning: If the cartridge tube becomes dislodged as you remove the Compression Damper assembly, do not worry. The oil in that tube will drain into the inner leg and can be poured out of that leg. The press fit or the "squeeze" of the o-ring between the end cap and the tube may be too loose. This will require replacing the o-ring in the end cap.

14. RCT Lock- out Forks: Using a 2mm allen remove the screw holding the cable barrel on, turn the screw counter-clockwise to remove. Be cautious of the return spring and cover on the bottom of the knob.

15. Next remove the cable stop clamp by loosening the clamp bolt using a 2mm Allen wrench, then just lift the clamp off of the Lock-out assembly.

16. Using a 24mm socket, remove the Lock-out compression assembly from the fork leg. As you pull the piston out of the damper body be cautious not to spill the oil. Once the Absolute assembly is removed, pour the oil in the damper body out and dispose of it properly. Stroke the rebound shaft once or twice while doing this to ensure that all of the oil is removed.

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17. Invert the fork, Using a 15mm wrench remove the rebound end cap by turning it counter-clockwise. This will remove the rebound assembly and the cartridge body.

18. Separate the cartridge body from the rebound assembly by twisting the two pieces in opposite directions while pulling them apart.

19. Inspect all o-rings, seals and piston glide rings, replace any that show signs of wear or damage. Be sure to check the o-ring on the inside of the rebound end cap that seals on the outside surface of the cartridge body. It is adviceable to only replace this o-ring if it is damaged as it extremely difficult to fully seat the replacement and install the cartridge. If you are replacing the o-ring, lube it with semi-bath oil rather than grease as it will seat into the groove in the end cap better.

20. Lube the oring on the inside of the end cap, the outside of the cartridge tube and the piston glide ring on the rebound assembly, using a small amout of shock fluid. These areas are pointed out in the photo to the right.

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21. Slide the rebound assembly into the cartridge tube. To insert the cartridge tube into the endcap, place the opposite end of the cartridge tube against the edge of the workbench, place on hand on the cartridge tube and one hand on the end cap. While leaning your weight into the assemblies, twist the end cap in one direction and the tube in the opposite as if screwing the pieces together. There should be a sharp snap or click as the tube slides past the o-ring and seats into the end cap. if you don't hear the end cap seat there is a very good chance that the cartridge tube has cut the o-ring.

22. Screw the rebound assembly and cartridge tube assembly into the bottom of the right leg. Torque the end cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m) using a 15mm wrench. Be care not to dislodge the cartridge tube from the end cap as it needs to remain fully seated to seal properly.

23. Turn the fork upright. Fill the cartridge approximately 1/2 to 2/3 full of 5wt shock oil. Be careful not to spill fluid in the area between the inner leg and the cartridge. Place a shop towel over the top of the leg. Slowly stroke the rebound shaft about 1/2 way through its travel, this will get air out from under the rebound piston. Fully extend the rebound shaft.

24. For all MRD Forks: Fill the cartridge with shock fluid until the distance from the top of the inner leg to the top surface of the oil in the cartridge is 120mm (you are measuring the distance between the 2 arrows). It is easiest to set this level using a syringe with a piece of tubing on the end to draw out the proper amount of fluid. For TPC forks proceed to the next step; Absolute forks continue to step 28; RCT forks resume at Step 29

25. For TPC Forks: lightly lubricate, with shock fluid, the orings on the outside and inside of the top cap. Carefully insert the TPC compression assembly to make sure that the cartridge body is not knocked off center. Using a 20mm socket, torque the top cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m).

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26. Insert the 2 detent springs and balls into the holes on the top cap.

27. Using a 1.5mm Allen wrench screw the TPC knob on to the compression assembly. Be careful when installing the knob so that you don't dislodge the detent balls. Proceed to step 34 to finish the service.

28. For Absolute forks: Lube the o-rings on the inside and the outside of the top cap with shock fluid. Also be sure to lube the o-ring on the piston. Carefully insert the Absolute compression assembly to make sure that the cartridge body is not knocked off center. Using a 24mm socket, torque the top cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m).

29. Insert the 2 detent springs and balls into two holes opposite to each other on the top cap.

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28. Using a 2mm Allen wrench screw the knob and Absolute detent plate on to the compression assembly. Be careful when installing the knob so that you don't dislodge the detent balls. Proceed to step 34 to finish the service.

29. For RCT Forks: lightly lubricate, with shock fluid, the orings on the outside and inside of the top cap. Carefully insert the TPC compression assembly to make sure that the cartridge body is not knocked off center. Using a 24mm socket, torque the top cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m).

30. Install clamp w/ cable adjuster pointing to the front of the fork.

31. Turn cable spool to close the lockout, making sure that it functions properly. Clock the spool so the cable anchor is close but doesnt interfere with the cable adjuster on the clamp.

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32. Turn spool counter clockwise about 180 degrees from the locked out position. Remove Spool and install the return spring in the spool.

33. Install spool on lock-out in the position from the end of step 32. The return spring goes in whichever of the holes in the top cap that it lines up best with. Proceed to step 34 to finish the service.

34. Extend the compression rod and the rebound shaft fully, check to see if the face seal on the rebound shaft and the o-ring on the compression rod are damaged. If so replace them, otherwise it is OK to reuse them.

Pinched

35. Slide the casting on to the stanchions being careful not to pinch the lip on the dust seals. Once the seals are on the legs, slide the legs about 3/4 of the way down.

Correct

36. Hold the fork at approximately a 45 degree angle with the drop outs up. Using a squeeze bottle or syringe put 16cc (16ml) of Semi Bath (5w40 synthetic oil) into each leg of the fork. Be careful that the oil is not poured into the end of the rebound shaft or the air valve on the end of the compression rod. After the Semi Bath is in each leg, slide the casting down the rest of the way until the casting makes contact with the rebound shaft.

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37. Using the 7mm Allen, turn the rebound shaft counter-clockwise to screw the rebound assembly into the casting. Tighten it to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m). Note:You may need to put a slight amount side pressure on the Allen wrench and pull out on the rebound shaft to get it to start in the casting. Warning: Do not overtighten the rebound damper assembly into the casting, it will cause damage to the sealing o-ring on the end of the shaft and cause the semi bath oil to leak out of the casting. It is recommended to use a torque wrench when tightening this assembly.

38. Screw the detent assembly clockwise on to the portion of thread of the rebound shaft that protrudes out of the casting. Using a tool like the Park Tool Pin Spanner and the 7mm Allen wrench, tighten the Detent Housing in a clockwise direction while holding the rebound shaft stationary with the Allen wrench. Tighten the Detent Housing to 15-20inlbs (1.7-N-m).

39. Insert a small spring into each of the holes on the detent assembly, apply a small amount of grease on top of the springs to hold the detent balls, and then place a detent ball on top of each spring.

40. Place the blue rebound knob on the needle in the rebound assembly and attach it with the machine screw using the 1.5mm wrench. Tighten it to 5-8inlbs (.6-.9N-m)and be sure to use blue LocTite on the threads.

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41. Install the 12mm nut that secures the compression rod in the left fork leg. If there is not a washer located under the 12mm nut, place a thin washer onto the exposed threaded shaft protruding through the casting before you reinstall the nut.Tighten it in a clockwise direction to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).

42. Pressurize the main spring by turning your bike upside down, install the air pump on to the schrader valve and then inflate to the pressure that you normally use. Now, go have a great ride!urize the main spring back to the air pressure that you normally run and go have a great ride!

Additional note: It is possible to change the compression damping systems (Absolute/TPC) between the
MRD Forks. There are different length cartridge tubes required for the Absolute subassembly versus the TPC subassembly. So, in order to change from TPC to Absolute or vice versa, you also need the correct corresponding cartridge tube.

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Technical Data

2008 Fork Set Up Criteria

Family Model Damping System Travel Oil Level Factory Build Specs Air SPV/IFP Spring PSI (PSI) N/A 70 N/A 70 N/A 70 N/A N/A N/A N/A 100 100 100 100

R7

MRD MRD

TPC Absolute TPC Absolute

MM 80 100 80 100 130 100 130

Inches 4.7 4.7 4.7 4.7 4.7 4.7 4.7

MM 120 120 120 120 120 120 120

Minute

MRD

Fork Model 08 R7 MRD 08 Minute MRD

Seal Type Orange Doughnut Thin White Nylon

Seal Part number 065807 067110

Rebound Damper End Aluminum Machined Aluminum Machined

Torque on Rebound Damper to secure in Casting 15-25inlbs (1.69 - 2.82Nm) 15-25inlbs (1.69 - 2.82Nm)

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2008 Manitou Fork Service Kit Matrix

Name Model Code Travel (mm) R7 R7 MRD M-850 80 A A A A A A A A A M-851 100 Minute Minute MRD RGRG850 851 100 130 83-3283 83-3281 83-3282 83833269 3284 83833271 3285 83-3352 83-3353 83-3354 83833286 3287 83-3273

Cartridge Damping Rebuild Parts

Cartridge Rebound Assy-TPC or Absolute Cartridge Rebound Assy-CID Cartridge TPC Assy Cartridge Absolute Assy Cartridge Body - TPC Cartridge Body - Absolute RCT Remote L/O Lever * RCT Remote L/O Cable * RCT Remote L/O Fork Clamp Spool/Spring * 83-3267 83-3265 83-3266 83833268 3269 83833270 3271 83-3352 83-3353 83-3354 83833272 3343 83-3273

Air Cap Air Spring Compensator Crn/Str/Leg

C C D ***Blk AL S/T(26") MRD E Merida Green Candy Red Grey (Primer) Gloss Black Gloss Black Carbon Clear Coated Grey Blue (Ocean Blue) Merida Green Candy Red Grey (Primer) Grey Blue (Ocean Blue) H H 80 100 130 E I K K

833276

833277

833290

833291

Outer Leg Assy STD STD STD STD NB, STD DO NB, STD DO NB, STD DO NB,STD DO NB, STD DO NB, STD DO NB, Hex Axel Travel Adjust/ Comp Rod/

98-23568 83-3257 83-3256 98-23561 83-3258 98-23564 83-3292 98-23569 83-3260 83-3259 83-3332

833274 833275 833288 833289 85-5964 83-3279 85-5293 83-3293

Bushing Kit Knob Kit Dust Seal Kit O-Ring Kit

85-5321 83-3279 83-2443 83-3280

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Fork Torque Specifications

Position Fork Assembly Brake Post End Cap (Spring & Damper) Top Caps (Spring & Damper / Plastic Top Caps (Spring & Damper / Metal Drop out bolt (Spring side) Drop out fitting (Damping side) Rebound -adjuster knob to needle Triple Clamp lower crown Triple Clamp upper crown QRTA quick release screws Std. thru Axle Clamp Screws Std. / QRTA Thru Axle bolt Ext. - 8mm (2 sided) Ext. - 24mm Hex Ext. - 20mm Hex / Ext. - 24mm Hex Ext. - 20mm Hex / Ext. - 24mm Hex Ext. - 11mm Hex / Ext. - 12mm Hex Int. - 8mm Hex Fitting (Internal/ External) - Size Torque (Kg/Cm) Min Max 92 92 115 115 Torque (inlbs) Min Max 80 100 Solution applied Red Loctite (impreg. threads) Greased (spring grease)

80 100 CRITICAL!!! 45 60 45 13 55 80 55 25

52 69 52 15

63 92 63 29

NA NA NA NA Blue Loctite (Cartridge Dampers Only) Blue Loctite Blue Loctite Blue Loctite Blue Loctite Greased (spring grease)

Int. - 2mm Hex Int. - 4mm Hex Int. - 4mm Hex Int. - 4mm Hex Int. - 4mm Hex Int. - 6mm Hex

5 58 115 35 35

7 81 127 46 46

4 50 100 30 30

6 70 110 40 40

Hand Tight

Sub Assembly Ext. (?)mm (2 sided) Air valve core Rebound Assy. Piston Nut Ex. - 13mm Hex LO, Rem LO: Ext. - 24mm Hex to Top Cap to Shaft Ext. 10mm (2 sided) LO: Int. 6mm Hex to Piston to Shaft Ext. 10mm (2 sided) Rem LO: Piston seat to Shaft bottom Custom fittings Rem LO: Plungertop to -bottom Custom fittings Rem LO: Shaft upper to -lower Custom fittings Rem LO: End plug to Piston seat Custom fittings

3 14 52 46 46 6 52 6

6 17 63 58 58 12 63 12

3 12 45 40 40 5 45 5

5 15 55 50 50 10 55 10

NA Green Loctite Red Loctite Red Loctite Red Loctite Red Loctite Red Loctite Blue Loctite

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Trouble Shooting Tips

Symptom Air Loss Cause Schrader Valve leaks Solution Tighten Valve core, replace bad parts as needed. See Page #

13 Sect.16 13 Sect.15 13 - Sect.14 13 Sect.15 5 Sect.8

Make sure O-ring is seated properly, Air Cap O-ring leaks replace parts as needed. Air Piston leaks Air Top Cap leaks Oil leaks from Wiper Seal not seated Seals properly Nicks or scratches on inner legs Check oil volume on top of piston, replace parts as needed. Check O-ring, tighten cap to proper Torque, and replace parts as needed. Remove Casting from Inner Legs, reinstall or replace seals Replace Crown/Steerer/Inner Leg Assembly

Too much Semi Bath Follow instructions for removal and oil installation of Outer Casting Remove Casting from Inner Legs, Wear reinstall or replace seals Oil leaks from bottom Rebound damper of Casting shaft leaks Replace Rebound Damping assembly Rebound damper shaft O-ring Replace O-ring on threaded end of damaged Rebound Damping assembly Compression Rod Check O-ring on bolt to see if it is Bolt leaks damaged and then reinstall

4 Sect.9 4 Sect.9 20 Sect.17 24 Sect.34

Lack of Travel

Tight Bushings Hydraulic lock out

26 Sect.41 Refer to 2008 Fork Service Resize bushings or replace with new Manual ones if damaged Replace Rebound Damping assembly See above See Above See Above

Fork Top out

Follow instructions for removal and Semi Bath oil volume installation of Outer Casting Check oil level, Replace Rebound Damper oil volume Damping assembly if needed Visually inspect fork, call HBG Tech Fork alignment Support Customer Service Loss of Rebound Damping Replace Rebound Damping assembly Top out spring Inspect and replace Top out spring if damaged needed. Damping oil volume Check oil level, Replace Rebound not correct Damping assembly if needed

See Above 11 Sect.15

Fork Bottom out

Too much SAG Bottom out Bumper Inspect and replace Bottom out Bumper 11 damaged if needed Damping oil volume Check oil level, Replace Rebound not correct Damping assembly if needed Resize bushings or replace with new Loose bushings ones if damaged Loose Compression Rod bolt Tighten bolt to specified torque Loose Rebound damping shaft Loose press fit tolerances Tighten Shaft to specified torque Call HBG Tech Support Customer Service

See Above Table 3 Refer to SAG Set up in Tuning section Pg.27 of Owners Manual Sect.15

See above See Above

Play in Fork

30

Trouble Shooting Tips (cont.)

Absolute Damping Problems

Loss of function Noisy when increasing platform

Check oil level, Replace Absolute Damping assembly if needed Check oil Level, contact HBG Tech Support See Remote Lockout Section

21 Sect.24 21 Sect.24 19 - 24

RCT Lockout ProblemsVarious

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