J

,\

Compiled by the Editors of

Popular Mechanics Magazine

POPULAR MECHANICS PRESS

200 EAST ONTARIO STREET
CHICA GO 11 , ILLINOIS

Copyri ghr 1950 by Populor Mec hon ic s Co.

 Boatbuilding is part of the American
-4, ~........ ", _
. ~~ heritage. The settlers of New England
~ .... - ' ;.;""-.......- ,...,..... developed the sturdy dory to cope
with the storm-wracked Atlantic waters in which they fished. It was a rare
son of Maine or Massachusetts who could not fa shion his own boat with
crude hand tools. The rivers of America were explored by men who learned
from the Indians how to make bark and dugout canoes. Flatboats carried a
large part of the goods of the pioneers during the westward movement.
Today, boatbui ld ing is no longer a part of everyday life, except in so me
fishing communities where boats still are built by men who earn their liveli-
hood from them. But there are a surprising number of amateur boatbuilders.

.
,-.~;g~~~;;;~~"'~~~'--~:"!:" Altogether there are more than half a
million persons in the United States who
are regularly building boats for pleas-
ure or for profit. They form a cross section of American life . The sleek ma-
hogany cobin cruiser of the Chicago banker shares Belmont Horbor with the
plywood sailing dinghy of the shipping clerk. On Chesapea ke Bay, in the
Florida Keys, and through San Francisco's Golden Gate, the rich man' s self-
designed yacht and the home-built sloop of the ordinary man head out to-
ward the open sea together. Self-built canoes and rowboats of fishermen
and hunters glide on the inland rivers of the country, and on its lakes, ponds
and marshes. Theirs is a double reward-the pride of craftsmanship and the
thrill of navigating the boat when the building is done.

With all this in mind, the editors of

Popular Mechanics have chosen with
care the craft that make up the con-
tents of 23 Boals You Can Build. Boats built from these plans are now in
successful operation in various parts of the country. The instructions, pic-
tures and plans were prepared for ease of understanding. Th ose who hove
never built a boat before are urged to read Part 9, "Build Your Boot Rig ht,"
which beg ins on page 161. The editors be lieve this book offers something to
tempt every lover of boals-a plan thaI will make his hands itch for lools and
materials. Choose your favorite - cabin cruiser, sa ilboat, rowboat, inboard,
outboard, ice yacht, bicycle boat, canoe, kayak, sea sled, paddle board,
catamaran. Good building, happy launching, and bon voyage!
The kind of:t boat you'd like to ha\'e is sure to
be wit hin the \'on-rs of thi ~ book, In 23 BOATS
YOU CA~ BUI LD, the editors of Popular
!\ fcchanics present a wide \'ariety of craft-
ranging from ;'Seacraft." a 25-foot cabi n cruis-
'cr sleeping four person s, to " Tiny_" a six- footer
that flaunt s a mus lin sail from a boom made
uf;\ sawed -ofi broomstick.

There's "Su-Lu. " a plywood dinghy built like

a ~a\'y PT-boat ., t hree boat s of sheet ply-
woud , , , an eight-foot duckhoat for sportsmen
. . , :t three,sectiun rowboat that fits inside it-
self like a Chinese box puzzle , , , a Canad ian-
type \' :UlO(' , , , a kayak of the North, , , a pon-
toon boat pedal-powered by a converted bicy-
cle, . a sea sl('d that run s on a convert ed
washing-machine engine , . , a radng icc boat
rh:u will take you skimming along at more than
SO miles an hour ... a motor·drj"cn catamaran
.. , a paddl c-propell('d pontoon.
 PART 1
"Su-lu"-the PT-Type Plywood Dinghy 7

PART 2
Trio in Plywood 21

PART 3
"Seocroft"- o 2S-Foot Cobin Cruiser 35

PART A
Boats for Sportsmen 65

PART 5
"Zephyr" - 14-Foot Sailing Dinghy 85

PART 6
"Arrow heod "- 2 1_foat Sloop 99

PART 7
"Just for Fun" Craft 119

PART 8
Training "Ships" for Young Sailors 147

PART 9
Build Your Bool Right 161

PART 10
Seamanship and Servicing Your Boat 177

5
PART 1

"See-Lee" - -
the PT-type
Plywood Dinghy

Robe. ' t . S","h. Monrov;o,

Cnlif. builder of the origi.
no l "Su·lu," hold. ,h". lig h l
bu r ,'uldy boo t upright will.
on (/ finger, 1h",,, 0'" nO
hidden PlOP' 1.> ... 1;('v(' us!

7
With two passe nge r. oboord, "'Su-Lu" pla nes t ho wo ter li ke Navy PT boots, afte r which it w as pattern ed

"See-Lee"-- a Plywood Dinghy

r r H1 S LI GHT a nd sturdy li ttle dinghy is
a ctua lly n lO-f1. model o f a Na vy PT
hu ll. l hnt is. w it h adaptations to thl.' m,lte -
l'i;J ls used ,lIld to t h e lim itations <I f a home
work s hop. "Su- L u " C,lIl 1.1 CCOnllll(1(hlt e f" U1'
<ldu lts and i:-; lig h t e nou gh fo r one pe rso n to
p u l on top of a C 'el !". T he "ski n " is mere ly two
la ye rs of 1,1J -i n . ply wood \\' jt h mus li n be-
tween . bid nvcr ,) frfl me of sp r uce batt(,lls.
Th e n :s ll it. is <L r igi d . s t ron g bu t V C I' Y li ght.
s h e ll. Thl.' t ra nsom is b uil t to take an ou t-
boa rd ml)l.o r. :me! ,1 mast step and cc ntc r-
boa rd Inmk nrc p r,)vided fo r sailing p u r-
pw;cs. O,Ii'loc ks <l nd socke ts abo mily b e
p rov ided . t hough not shO\vn on this mode l.
El'Ccti llg £r,IlIlC: O nce the s tmn gback a n d
.sta ti ()fl mo lds an:- prope rly ins ta lled on the
erec t ing fra me. the sh <J pe o f the hu ll is
bound to be cor rect. As in a ll s ma ll boa ts, it
is most con ve n ient to b u ild u ps idc do wn
.mel t hl.' c rec ti ng fl"i.lm e is t h us des igncd .
F irs t nw ke the strnn gb ack . F ig . 1. nf :,'::: x i
p[;lIl k . notc hed to receive th e fi ve s tation
mo lds illlt! c u t away to clea r s te m <Jn d t ra n-
sam kn ee. If you r wO\'ksh op has a wood en
floor yo u can set lip t he cl'ccting fram e d i-
rec tly upon it. If iI conc rete 0 " d ir t floor is
us ed. howeve r. y ou s hould ma ke a la rge
ope n recta ng le of pl a n ks with corner braccs
;md cross me m be rs u pon wh ich uprights
(lrc s uppo r ted. as in F ig. ·1 . whic h in turn
ca ny the str on goack . Note t ha t the str on g-
bac k is a lso s uppol·ted at th c e nd by 2 x 4s,
but that t hese a rc not. sCI'c wed to it, in orde l'
tha t w he n the bO;:lt is li fted up to be t u m ed
over. t he s lI'on gbac k w ill com e awa y . Thi s
applies a lso to th e upr ight s upports a mid-
s h ips. A tau t w ire is inslc"l lied as s hown by
which the s ta tion mo lds a re to be centered.
In F ig . 2 is a side v ie w of the e recting frame
w ith s tem. t ransom and keel in p lace. These
1.lre te mpora r ily s ecu red w it h sc re ws fo]"
re m ova l when t he b oat is tu r ned ove r, and
so that the s te m C iln b e take n o fT for cuttin g
the ba tten notches a ft e l' m£ll'ki ng them
w h ile on t he fra me. D iflgnna i b rac<'s are lo-
cated w h ere in cli cll Led, and these arc
scre w ed t o the fr a m e only at the bottom

TABLE OF O FFSETS IN FEET. INCHES AND EIGHTH INCHES T O INS IDE OF SKIN
Heigh ts Station 1 4 5 T
above Sheer
0
1- 8-2 1- 6-7
2
1-5 - 5 "
1-4 - 6 1- 4- 1 1-4 -3 1-4 - 3
base Chine 0- 7- 2 0- 6- 0 0-5- 2 0-4- 4 0- 4- 5 0-4 -6
line Kee l 0- 3- 3 0- 2- 1 0- 1-5 0- 1-I 0- 1-1 0- 1-1
Ha lf- Sheer 1- 0 - :~ 1-5-4 1-8- 3 1-9- 6 1-8- 7 1- 6- 3
breadths Chine 0- 8- 4 1-1 - 5 1-4-2 1-7 -0 1-7- 2 1-5-5
Keel • 0- 0-6 0-0 -8 0-1-4 0- 1- ·1 0- 1-4 0-1 - 4

8
 "

KEElSON_~
-~ satEW· -·

DIAoo AI. SRACfS

-- --- - ----
CfNTfIUNG WIRE

I ~" ftAN VIEW

21'l!."
SHUR

IODY-PLAN 'IOfll!
SECTIONS

9
 -
, "If,," !.
.I
DICK PLAN or..
I ~ .. .
.
.~ . .=- . I
0 STA. I
I
. . .
~~
,. "--
!

~a =

~
OUT80AII D ",0,..1.( ~
•

I I \-t--t

10
w he re they will be accessible fo l' a screw-
dl·iver . These are ill ustrated in the sectiona l
view, Fig. 6. Thei l' purpose is to keep the
SI(ltiol1 molds centered durin g construction.
Afte r the hu ll is completed and lifted off,
it is set 011 Ihe frame base with wedge
blocks. as in Fi g. 5.
S illtion molds: As lon g as the profiles are
correct, th e s tation molds m<ly b e of almos t
,lily type, and F ig. 3 is o nly a s uggestio n.
Note that the CI'OSS brace is assem bled with
wing nul s for easy remova l. Ol·dinary
se n~ ws may be used instead o f wing nu ts.
I n p hlcing the molds on t he stron gback,
notches s h ou ld be cut d eep enough to per-
mit the bOll om of the mo ld to lie flu s h \dth
the edge of th e strongback. Also, t he edges
s hould be beve led to confonn to the curve
of t he hull.
In Fi g. 8 a l·e shown the deck plan and
outboa rd p rolile of t he fin is hed hull. w ilh -
out the false boUam 01' sai lin g cqu ipmen t.
Not c the oversize knees at cornc l's of tran -
so m. which CiLn serve as seaL~ in handling
the li ller under sail 01' on othe l' occasions.
Profi les of the riv e st ation mo ld s are g iv-
e n in Fig . 9. Approximate 10cnt inllS of the
balle ns a re indica ted on Station 1 only.
Sh ee ,· and ch ine b atten s tlrc ind ica ted ~n
the o thers. After the molds ,'Ire completed.
nw kc the keel flf white oak. % in. x 3 in . x
!) ft. P~lI·t of this wi ll be cut on t.he aft end
lal('l'. At a po int 30 in . fro m th e forward
e ncl . it begins to taper [l"Om 3 in. wide to l'/l
in . at th e forwa rd en d . A slot fo,· the cen-
terboa rd. :I M in. x 101,Z in ., is cu t throug h
where indir.:ilted in th e LIppe r d e tail of Fig.
7. The keelson is secured temporaril).· to the
strongback wilh screws <lS ind ica led in F ig.
2 ;!nd a lso to stem and tl'flllsom.
The s tem : The stem may be m ade of
white oak , apit ong, 01' , a s in this case, ma-
left: Clolh be lw ee n inn e r ond oule. tOYllrl of ply w oo d hOI nol y", bee n tri mmed 01 I.on l o m. Nol e bevel on kee l.
son, elld o f which is 10 billowe d off flu sh. Right: Ste ant_ be n t oak culwale r il sh o wn st rewe d on ove r clolh goskot
h ogany. T wo :lA -in . pieces al·e g lued togeth-
N to fonn H z- in. thickness . 11 is mad e in
two parts, Fi g. 10, the joint b e ing boiled
~lIl d glued a nd provided w ith s topwatel'
plugs of so ft pine. InstaUed dry, these plugs
sweHlo a ve ry ti ght fit and pn~ v entleak i ng
<II a critica l poi n l. T he tW!J parts ilre b oil ed
w ith ga lvani7_ed car riage bolts. the h eads
countel·sunk. In the fina l assem bly. boilS
a re used 10 fa s ten to keelson . Cut the ste m
longer at the t.op than show n to allow for
trimming flush with the top o f the s h eer
batt ens. Beve l Ihl' forward edge somewhat
to simplify getting m a rk s fo,· b atte n
no tches. llllri ial er plane the ed ge flu sh with
the batten s 10 receive t he plywood s kin in ,J
watel·tight joint. In a ll assembly op erations
on Ijlis boat, use <l w<lterproof ceme nt rec-
ommendcd fur thi s purpose.
'fhe t ransom : An c:-.;ccpti onally stl·ong
Ir,ln so m is m ,1{le by buildin ~ up two l:l yers
of :).;-i l1_ mll hogllllY \\·i th the g r'lin at r ig lll
ang les and t he profi le as show n in Fig . 11 .
Th e grain is vcrlic<ll on the forward side
and hodzonlill un the afte r si de , This co n-
s truction al so simplifies makin g the n otches
for the battens. which can be s:Hved instefl(l
of chiseled O lil. The triHlsom knee is also
s hown in Fig. 11, and is in s ta lled w ith ga l-
vanized fll:lthead wood sc re ws. heads coun -
te rs unk <lnd plugged over with marine
d owels, Use t his ty pe of dowel e xclu sively
on the b oat becn use the gndn rUlls across
and they can be trimmed fl ush with thc
b rla! neatly with a chi sel. Nole that notches
rOl· ba ttens nre on ly half wny throu gh thc
transom. while the n otch fOl· the k eelson
goes nil the W;:lY through .
Ills tHlling batt ens: The S h CC1· line should
be mm'k ed on stem as well;Hi s tation m olds
bc fOl·e beginn ing to insta ll b;ltten s. W it h
k ee lson . s tem and transom on t he erect ing
11
Left: A neat job of filling the plywood ,!rip' will relult in these pleo,ing tine. forward. Right: The
forward d ec k hal I',.j n._ plywood strip, laid to rnemble planking. Note thOit .pl;t ring for malt partner
fnlil1C. and hnv ing placed the station molds
in proper notches, check to make sure t hat
they are llbsolutely square w ith the stl"Ong-
back ami ccnlcl'ed with the guide wire. The
transom s hould ;l lso be checked for square.
Sc rew each s heer batten in its notch in
the tJ"i.lilSom. nail them tempora l'i ly at the
s hee r lTHu'k "n Station 'I, F ig. 16. then draw
the for wa rd end.s toge thel' sim uitane')tlsly
at the s tem ;md nail just enough to hold in
posit i(]n. F ig. 17. T he object of drawing both
Inttens toge the r ilt the stem at th e same
1 ime is 10 aV(l i d 1wisting the molds. as cou ld
blppe n if "n ly one were installed at;:I time.
Tn th is case th e s liff batten would tend to
force the mold s i!1\\'ill·d.
The batt ens from Station 4 to the stem
shou ld be sleamed o r boiled for at least 20
minutes. This Ciln be done in a length of
il'On pipe propped at .m angle . w ith OJ fir e
ull der the lower end. Soaking in a pool 01"
\\"a l(']' l.l"'lugh <l lso will render the battens
plii.lble. but the hot water and steam treat-
menl is more (' tIeclive .
Next in st~l ll tJl(~ chine battens, drawing
th e f01'Wl;Il"d ends tpgether simult.:'lneously
and I1nilin g l.empol"ui ly to lhc s tem. They
s hnuJd nss umc a nat ural curve. The inter-
mediate bnttcns may b e placed one nt a
time. When all arc nailed to th e stem tem-
porarily, space them equally distant 0 11 t he
station molds, except where it involves un-
due strain , and drive nails pm·t way in to
I'e tain the pos iti ons. The fram e will then
appear ns in Fig. 17. Now mark the s tem
",r.e l·e each ball en contacts it, draw out the
nails. re move the stem and chisel in the
notches. Replace the stem on k eelson , cut
e nds o f battens to cOITed length. set in
n otchcs and SCrew down permanen t ly.
With a s hort le ngt h of batt en u ~cd .lS a
fid. lest {OJ' the ang:le the kee lson is to be
planed so t.hat the skin will lie nat on il.
12
Ins talling the s kin: Surplus stocks of Va-
in. mahogany plywood are available and
make idea l matedal ror covering this hull.
It is laid on in s trips of varying widths. de-
te nnined by trial ill fiLt.ing. The inner layer
is begun at the transom. Fig. 13, and the
strips are laid diagonally. Use as wide a
piece as wi ll cuntact the battens at cvel'y
point <IS you work forward . All strips mty>t
be shaped and nail ed on temporar ily before
any of them are g lued. Use escutcheon nails
and heat the area to be bent by pressing on
both sides with a hot il'on through a damp
cloth , Fig. 12. You will n eed to work f<l s t
before the plywood cools to make a dean
bend. Any st rips fractured in the process
shou ld be discm·ded after us ing th em as a
pattern fm' il new stdp. The na ils throu gh
the battens into the s1::1l iOI1 molds must be
removed befol'e the plywood is insta lled
pe rmanent ly . Otherwise you will have se-
d ous difficulty ill gettin g the molds out of
the hull afte r it is turned over.
Now begin ceme nL ng the skin to the bat-
t ens. Leave all the temporaril y nailed strips
in place except the one you arc wOI'king on
and that adjoining it. A lfl-in. acid brush
with a metal handle is handy for applyi ng
Ule ccment. All cont.:'lcting slll"f<1ces should
be thoroughly coated. Lay a strip of cloth
undel' the first plywood laye r, along the
edges of transom and stem, with cement.
In driving th e escut.cheon nails through
the plywood into the k eelson. be SUl·C they
are s paced at least Il/.l in. apart along the
center so that they will not interfere w h en
the area is planed flat to rece ive the keel
s trip, Fig. 14.
After the first layer is installed from
transom to s tem, sandpaper the surface
thoroughly to receive the muslin . Before
applying cement. st.retch the sheet (72 in.
wide) over the hull, lack along edges and
 •

Su-lu roc kod on 0 car, ,e(uly fo r th o rood,

with lilli o win d ,ol;llonce in ih I n,o,1 linn

il,jm, but flllow a few inches extra

a ll ::H'mmel to be cut away later. The
only opening should be at the cen -
te rboard slot find along the stem.
Remove lhe cloth :lnd apply cement
over the enti re hull. working ,-apid -
ly and c"refully. Then replace the
muslin and s tretch it taul over the
entire surface, smoothing out e\'en
the s lightest wrink le. This las t pl'C -
caution is important as a wrinkle
' 11igh! calise an air pocket and the
start of dcc:!y.
Th e second nJ' oU ler layer of ply-
wood is !:l id the same as the first.
e xcept t.1l;,!. it li es at right angles to
t.he u ri ginll l stl'ips. Fig. 13. To insure
the nai ls hitLing the battens aU
along, mark s s hould be made on th e
first layer to locate them propedy.
then duplicated on the canvas.
Afte r the cement has set, sandpa-
pe r tJle surface smooth to receive
the spar vamish. Around the tran -
som put a covel' s trip over the edges
of t he e xposed ply wood skin. The
cover strip may be of 1/8-in. p ly -
wood. sCl'o llsa wed about % in . w ide
and ceme nted as well as escutcheon-
Il<l iled. Fig. 15.
E nds of the plywood should pro-
ject over the s tem so that a c lean
slI l'face can b e made by sawin g flu s h
with the cu twat('1' to receive the oak
st r ip covpring the jOint.
T urninJ! boat OH~r : By removing
the sc re ws through the keelson into
the st rongbi,lck , those thl'Ough s tem
and transom into the fore and art
Th e forward Itotion mold$ are replaced by
deck boom •. Othe,. owoi! fitting of leoll

13
2 x 4s, and those at the fnot of the diag-
ona l braces (see Figs . 2 :md 'I) the hull can
b e IHted o ff and turned over. Set it on
blocks on the base frame as in Fi g. 5 ilnd it
is ready for interior finishin g .
Saw the rugged edges of th e skin flush
with the sheer battens and the s te m. Be-
cause it has hardened with cement , the
cloth will n ot snag the sa w. Station mnlds
s hould be lefl in until th e for ward d eck
beam s and SCHts are in s t;llled to pl'eve n t
the s ides ":-;(Illeezin g" inward . Br re moving
t he cross member of Sti.ltion mold No.5, the
s trongback ca n be lifted uu t over the tran -
som. A seclional view at Stil li on 4 shows
th e thin but s l tu'dy planking st.1"llcture and
ilt"l";mgetllcn I u f the escutcheon nails in the
battens, Fig. 16.
A gene ral vie w o f the delnilecl assembly
is s hown by the partial perspecli ve, Fig. 20.
NO NAilS WHERI!
PLYWOOD 1$ TO Be
TRIMMEO fOR
. '1',,··~ (iY' 'I
KE ELSON
, £5CUTCHEOH
, NAlLS
EQUAllY AND
NAIL TEMPORA!!IL Y
SICT10N AT
nAnoN NO. 4
In s tall the deck be mlls at Stati ons 1 ,1I1d 2,
together wit11 the diagona l braces under
the HI'sl SC(: tion mHi t he knees, :l:O; sh' ,wn.
The knees and th e brC;Jsthook Ciill be 1ll, l dc
uf two thicknesses u f % -in . sc rap m,lllOg-
any. A mast step with a hole 1% in . ~q llal"l~
is shown here on the keelson, but :-;hould
not be permanent ly installed until the llll isl
partner is located in the deck. Behind th e
sec(md deck beam ins ta ll a curved. ste:Ull-
be nt oa k lll e mbe r fu r the after ed g'e of th e
dcc k. The moldin g is screwed to th is me m-
ber aft er the deck is comp leted.
Seats are suppor ted on short ribs with
~2- in .-p lywood panels, as in Fig. 20. The
!;l:at top is %-in. p lywood. In the origina l
mndel shown in th e photng;'aphs, lis-ill. 111<1 -
Iwgany W;JS laid ove r % -in . D ouglas-fir ply-
wood. making ,Ill
;llIractivt! nni~h .
The assembly of the built-up Iran:-om is
@I •• STALU.' THI SKIN
AU PLYWOOD
STRIPS;,tJIE FlmO _-:~~::::::::;;(
lUaU G!.UING
MUSUN
~ _ .• . .r - _ . .
1
Sl'AC'
l eft: Hull lifted off erecting frome, rough with cement. Right: Trimming the short rib which is 10 be the seat
s upport. Note cloth strip betwe" n slcin and "dg" of transom. Beom ot I"ft is on Station mold No. 5
shown in Fig. 19. The transom has un oak
cover st.rip across t.he curved top.
Centerboard trunk: The centerboard
trunk accommodates a dura lumin or dural-
steel k eelboard . The trunk is constructed of
plywood s ides with oak end members and
oak cleats securing it to the keelson. The
trunk also serves as a support iol' t h e am id-
sh ips scat. A cloth gasket is placed over the
keelson, as illust ra ted in F ig. 21. T he inner
wa lls shou ld be giv en a thorou gh applica-
tion of bottom paint before final assembly.
Deck a nd trim: Ret.uming to Fig. 20, an
oak rub rail runs fl'om stem to b·ansom.
From the front of the amidships seat to the
transom is an oak cover stri p. Having
plcnty of I/S --W1. plywood on hand, the deck
of this boat was built up of t h ree layers. t he
center one with the grain at dght angles to
the upper and lower ones, as shown in F ig.
18. A sturdy enough deck can a lso be made
of one panel of :~ ~ -in. plywood. In the t.hree-
layer alTangement, the plywood is laid in
2-in. strips, giving the a ttractive appear-
ance of a planked deck, as illust.rated in the
photographs.
With the e x ception of the bottom below
the watcr line, w hich is given two coats of
bottom paint, th e e n t h'e hull is spar-var-
njshed. No sta in is required, the natural
wood having a vel'y pleasing a ppearance.
Mast : With 12 ft. of mast above deck and
an 8-ft. boom, the little p lywood dinghy
makes a fle et sa iler and is exceptionally
trim in hel' lines. F ig. 22. The mast rests in
a step on the keel. F ollowing the prefel'enee
of many sai ling-dinghy enthusiast s, no
shrouds are used, a single forestay anchor-
ing th e mast. Note that the b oom is kicked
up well aft, making it unnecessary for you
to dive into the boat w hen coming about.
A s turdy but light hol low mast is easily
constl"llcted as in F ig. 23 . Select two pieces
of vel·tical-grain spruce I V, in. x 2 V2 in. x
13 ft. 4 in. Place t hem together and mark a
1-in. cil'cle, t.hen make saw cuts to w ithin
7lh in. of one end. Now chisel a gl"Oove in
each with a gouge and check with a tem -
plate. Glue the halves together and with a
ch alk line mark a tapel' from 21/1 in. at the
base to 1% in. at the top . Saw along t.he
marks, lay on the s ide and I'epeat the proc-
ess. You now have a sq ua re-section . hollow,
tapered mast, to be tr immed l'Otllld, first by
making it octagonal with a drawshave and
finishing w ith a plane ;mel sandpaper.
In Fig. 24 is shown a sectiona l view of the
completed mast. Beginning at the deck line
downward the m ast sh ou ld be of uniform
diameter, that is, app roximate ly 2'11 in ..
a nd 4 in. from the bottom should be tapered
to a s qual'e end to set in the mast step. T his
w ill prevent t Llm ing under sailing stress.
To reinfo rce the lower end of the mast. in -
se r t a hardwood core. 32 in. long, having
applied glue libera lly. By glue we mean a
wate rp roof cement. which is to he used on
a ll contacting fixed wood surfaces in this
b oat. The top e nd of t he m ast is slotted for
a 2-in. sheave, which can be lathe-turned
from hardwood and should have at least
Yi(;-in. clearance on each side so t h at it w ill
not bind from the effect of swell ing in
moisture. Drive a fel'l'ule on the peak of
the mast.
Boom : A flat boom is shown in the sail
pla n , Fi g. 22. Th is is a favorite type among
owners of light sailing craft as it con forms
to a certain degree to the curve of a well-
filled sai l. The boom is of vertical-grain
15
left: Insto liing diogonol supports under the forward deck beam , Ri9ht: Strong, light, removoble floor boards

spruce stock, 3/ , in . x 3 in. x 8 ft. 3 in.,

slightly tapered <.It the forward end, Fig. 26. TOP l AYER IN 2"
It is equipped with b locks and sail tl'ack StRIPS FOR
APPEA RA NCE
and deat. as shown. and h inged to the mast
THREE lAYERS Of
with a gooseneck, Fig. 25. The gooseneck ~~ PlYWooO
can be made up if you have adequate met- OR 'Mo PLYWOOD
H

alwo rking equi pm en t, 0 1' a used on e might IN ONE PIECE

be found at 11 marine h;:ll'dw<lre store. For
salt-water use, all hardware must be
bronze, brass or sta inless steel.
For those who prefer the round -section
boom, a design is given in Fig. 27. This
tapers from the center toward the ends, one
of wh ich is slotted fOJ' a sheave.
Deck fittings: In Fig. 28 is illustrated a
simple anlllgcment of deck fittings. includ-
in g a ha lyard cleat on the mast. 11 mooring l HX%"
cleat forward of the mast on the deck, and a StEAM·BENT
pa ir of bow chocks. The forestay is secured
1.0 an eyebolt in the top of t hc stem. If
shrouds are desil'cd , chain p lates arc made
as in Fig. 33. Strap metal is hooked under
the sheer batt ens and carried up through
slots in the deck . Forestay and sh rouds
should be :!fl~- in. 6 x 7 galvanized w ire or
¥1f;-in. 19-strand stain less-steel cable.
Centerboard and rudder: For the center-
b oard . cut :l~,; _i n. dural steel to the outline
sh own in Fig. 29, with a wood bar b olted or
riveted across the top. Grind the edges
round so that they will n ot cut exposed
fl esh 01' snag on clothing in h andling .
The rudder is scrollsawed from a single
mahogany board, 12 x 36 x % in. th ick, F·ig.
NOTCHED
30. To prevent warping 01' splitting under FOR BAnEN S
exb'eme load, rabbet across for recessed
oak battens ~8 in. thick and 2 in. wide. Ce-
ment one on each side, as ind icated in the
drawing. Edges b elow the water line shou ld %"X 1%" OAK
---
CUTWATfR
be rounded.
A tiller with a eurve is easy to manage as ~
well as p leasing to the eye . One ca n be PERSPECTIVE VIEW
made as in F ig. 31, by steam-bending a OF
l ength of hickory or oak. When dry. trim
I.
it to a round section at the forwa nl end.
Cheek -pieces are bolted on to straddle the
s hank of the rudde r. The rudder is hung on
SC1'ew g udgeons with strap pin tlcs, Fig. 32.
If you make t he rudder yourself, bear in
mind that the tapered pin on the low e r edge
s hould b e longel' th an on the uppe r for
con venience in placing in t he g udgeons.
1n order to leave the lranso m clear fol'
an outboa l·d motor, a I'ope Iravele r is r ec-
ommended. a s it can be unsnapped quickly
and s lowed ,,·hen powe r is required .
SUmlllitl·~· : A numbe r of strip-plywood
boats have been built :,; ince the or iginid Su-
Lu , and a ll the m ake rs reported e xcelle nt
res ults f!"Om follo wing this bas ic design.
Despite theil' respecl.ilble le ngths of nround
10 ft. , and the roomy '12- ill. beams, the boats
""" PLYWOOD
CENTERIO,UO-WELL SfCTlON
made h ave averaged less than 100 pounds.
None o f the builde rs go t into scriou s dif-
ficu lt ies. As may be gath e red from the in-
structions. the only ti ck lis h part of the
w ho le OpcJ"Hti on is that involvi ng the s team-
ing. bend ing and fitting of the plywood
s trips. The origina l builder, Robe rt L.
Sm ith, a Monrovia, C<1lif., bank e mployee,
had never built a boat before he construct-
ed the original Su-Lu. I-Ie d e pa l·tcd from
the inst.rll c t ions given here in uIIly on c
major in s tance-i nsta lling bo th plywood
b rel's at th e same a nl-:le r <1ther than ;It ri ght
a ngles. Sumc stren gt h is sacrificed by this
me t.hod, and la ter builde rs adopted the
c r ossed strips. S mith 's n e xt boa tbuilding
I))"oject was to be a 16 lh -ft. boat.. one fifth
lhe size of a Navy PT boat.
HORI ZONTAL
~.~MAHOGANY
OU TER
~M X"2"
%': PLY WOOD
""x~"
" .t
'1 '.... "
,.... ~. MUSLIN
~-c:;.l"'~"-- GASKET IN
MARINE GlUE
CENTERBOARO WEll
17
 MAAIC TAPU
...,
WITH CHAUC lINE

,
,

• ,
,,
3 ,,
,,

•• ,,
~ , ,,
~ ,,
~
,
i ,, • , , , ,,
,
,,

~. -

18

Though pocked to the guowClles wilh pClsnogen, Su·lu tide, th e wgte" buoyontly becCluse of lig h' tonslrudioo
MATERIAL LIST
HULL LUMBER
pieee wh ite orlk, % x 3 in . x 9 ft.- for
keels oll
piece spruce, 'h x 2 in. x 10 ft. 3 in.- for
ba llens
12 pieces ~ pru ce, Ih x 11/8 in. x 10 ft . 3 in .-
for sheer ba Hel1s
16 sq. ft. m;"lhog;lny, :l., in. (glued up to I ~~
in. I.hi ekness) - £01· tr;msom. s tem ;m d
knees
1 piece mahogrJI1Y or pine, % x 3 in. x 6
ft.- for deck beams
22 li nC:ll it . m a hogan y , :v.. x 2 in . x diagwllI
- fol· s cat rails
2 pieces white oak, 1 x 1 x 12 in .- for cen-
terbo:lnl-well cleats
22 linea l ft. white oak, 3,i:c x 11/4 in. x diagram
--for keel-strip molding
2 piece '< o[!k. % x l 'h in. x 10 ft. 6 in.- for
ru b r;ti ls
8 sq . ft . plywood (covered with mahogany
plywood). :)8 il1 .- for seats
4 panel s mahogany , basswood-core ply -
wood. '/8 x 40 x 60 in.-for planking (skin)
HARDWARE
1'"h Jhs. IS in . esc utcheon nails
2 ~"\O\ x 2lh in. galvanized carriage bolts-
for s tem
". ',. :;... ' , ..
~~--~.
2 .j'1 ,;
x 3~2 ill . g;11van ized carriage bolts-
for stem
12 No. 14 2'h ill . flat-head wood scrcws-
for transom knee
1 gross No.7 1'/4 ill. fJat-h c;"ld wood screws
- fo r tr;1nSOIll knce
\V:rtcrproof cemenl, s pilr wlI'nis h
MAST AND RIGGING
2 p ieces spru ce. )11.1 x 2" 2 in . x 13 ft. 4 il1.-
for mas t
1 piece spruce, %. x 3 ill. X 8 ft. 3 in.-
for boom
piece dur;ll s teel, :l.J ,: x 10 V,1 x 36 ilL- for
centcl"boa"d
piece m'lhogan y . =j,;1 x 12 x 36 ilL- for
rudder
2 pieces oak , % x 2 x 12 In.- for b<lttens
1 piece hickory . 3ft x ) x 20 in .- for tiller
2 pieces o~k. ~;I x 1 x 8 in.- fOI" c heck-pieces
12 sq . yards mu!'; lin- for s~ri l
MISCELLANEOUS
;) blocks: de;!ls for s l\('el. h.r1yard. mooring
9 ft. :'.!::: in . G :x i galv;mi7.Cd wire for fore-
s tay, eyeboll
2 how ch')cks: pair gudgeons and pintles;
g'">Osencck
17 ft. s tai nless - s teel sai l track ;1nd riders;
g~rlv.:1 nizecl bolts for fu dder; tang. snaps,
thimbles
19
MOORING HINTS FOR SMALL BOATS
Padlock Secured to Boat Chain
T o keep an
ope ned padlock
from slipping oIT
(l boat chain and
being lost, fasten
it to the ch;lin w ith
.1 strip of friction
tape. Severa l
tu rns of tape are
I
wrapped around
th e bow of the
padlock and the
t'.l pe is entwined
;:Hound th e l ast
link of the chain
ns Rhown .

Bow Fenders From Old Fire Hose

Mooring Ring for Rowboat Unusually neat
Usin g auto pistons with connecting rods fen ders fO l' H sma ll
alta"rhed as mooring rings for a boat w ill boat can be made
save pulling the boat onto the s hore every from lengths of
time you slOp on ;l water rou te frequently large hose. prefer-
traveled. At convenient points along the ably old fhe hose.
rnute, the nuto pi s tons Clre buried in the This is fill e d with
g round so the end o f the connecting l'Od is li g htly ro ll ed
exposed. :md a line from the boat is secured sponge rubber,
to the rod. This method, of course, can only a f ter which the
be used in vc ry s t ill W<l t CI'. For mure per- ends are copper-
m,menl insta ll a t ions where there is a strong riveted to g eth e r.
CUI'l'c nL the pistons :md rods com be em-
A ean\"as cover for
bedded in conc rete. e.leh fe nder improves its appear;:mee and
pl'Ov ides a good base fo r painting if d esired .
Coil Spring Is Flexible Tie
~--- Solder Holds Bolts Tightly
When bolts or
screws arc used in
bO'ltbuilding or
w h a r f eons truc-
tion whe re loe k
w;lshers arc hn-
practica l to keep
them from loosen -
inJ..(.clip the thread -
ed portion in a
s uitable Aux. a nd
then into molten solder. A good example
of llsing this meth od is in a mount ing fOl'
.1 mooring ring which is he ld in place with
On e bU;11 owner uscs a stiff coil spring as a sc rew. th e threaded end of which tU1"1lS
indicated to keep the boat snug in a dock into a tapped metal insert. T h e coatin g
be rth vet a llow it La move w ith tides 01" of solder on th e screw threads will pre-
waves.' Th e spring is }Ih in. in diameter vent the screw fr om loosen ing.
and is f,H;t cncd to the wh;lrf w ith thrc('
large s t'l plc~ through thc lower turn. A 4IlA serviceable sh oulde r pad fol' c<llTy ing
rope at th e top of the s pring is used to t ic ,) C<lllOe 01' sma ll bOclt ca n be made fr om an
up the boal. old automobi le ti 1"e casing.

20
 PART 2

7w Ut PLYWOOD

--- -- - ------------- -------

21
pLYWOOD HAS BEEN .m important
matedal in boat building fol' years, but
the all-plywood huU came into its own only
during Wodd War II, The advant.'1ges of
construction with sheet plywood are now
recognized by naval architects and pI'ofcs-
sion<lJ bO<ltbuildcrs <lS well as the amateur
builder, Plywood craft are always lighter
and sometimes stronger than boaLc; of the
same size built of oth er matel'ials , The
amateur find s shee t p lywood an easy mate-
ri<.ll with which to work because the panels
cover lHl'gC areas and ted ious calking is al-
most entirely eliminated, No compiicated
table of ofIsets is necessa ry, Plywood boats,
properly constructed , are tight and dr y-
there are no seams to open with the swell-
ing and shr ink ing of narrOw p lanks, For <lll
ordinary purposes, p lywood is punctUl'e-
proof. If a hole is driven into a plywood
hull. repai l's can be made easily and quick-
ly without r emov ing a sin gle plank,
Improper construction of a plywood boat,
01' use of sheet plywood on a boat not de-
signed for this materia l, can result in a d is-
ma l failure--a boat th at will sp dn g, leak
and break up quick ly, Rea lizing thi s, the
Douglas Fir Plywood Association of Ta-
coma, Wash,. l'epl'esent.ing manufacture rs
of Dou g la~-n l ' plywood in the United Sta t.es,
conduet.ed a specia l study of the sh eet-
plywood boat. The association secured the
scrvices of noted small-boat design ers to
crenie craft espec ially suited to this ply-
wood construction, The three boats fea-
t ured on foiiowing pages- " Handy ." an 11-
ft. 6-in, skirr; "Sport," a 13 1},!-ft: V-bottom
inbocu'd, and "Tl'amp," a 15-ft. sa iling
knock<lbout-wen,! designed by Edwin
Monk. ;1 llav;l l archit ect. M r, Monk 's direc-
tions. whilc d r ',, ;]r>d, ::Ire intended fOl' those
wit.h · some previous exp eri ence in boat-
building, If you a l'e bu ildi ng a boat for the
Arst time, you will be w ise to first read Part
9. " Build Yo ur Boal Right," beginning on
"
page 161; fundamenta ls a loe treatcd here,
There are two chief precaut ions to ob-
serve when building a sheet-plywood boat
- Arst, choice of the matel'ial , and second ,
choice of the boat plan, It is recommended
that only extel'iol'- type-plywood pane ls be
used for boats, no mutter whether the ply-
wood is to go inside or oUl<;ide the cra ft. T he
pane ls that. make up exterior-t.ype D ouglas-
fir plywood are bonded together with com-
pl ete ly waterpI'oof adhes ives, thus inSlll'-
ing a bond t h at will withstand wind und
weather, The grade-trademad< EXT-DFPA
on th e panel edge is positi ve identifiC<ltion
of exteriOl'-type Douglas-fir p lywood,
T he second precaution is not to try to
plank with plywood a hull d esigned for oth-
er m;:ltel'inl such as n a n'ow lumber, B ea u-
tiful. modern and stUl'dy p leasure boats of
all sizes can be built of sheet plywood , but
in every in stance the design must be ex -
pressly for this type of plywood, Ply wood
hull designs employ what nre term ed "de-
velopable su rfaces, " This mean s that any
curve called for by the al'Ch itect is wit.hin
the lim its to which plywood may be safely
and readi ly b ent.
You]' local lumber dealer will help you
in obtaining plywood panels of the most
econ omical sh eet si",e. Generally the most
popular size is the <1 x 8- ft. panel. Thel'e are
oversize s heets available as long as 50 ft.
and as wide as 8 ft.
The most populal' thicknesses of pane ls
for p lywood boat hulls are from 1fz to % in,
Thicker panels are ava ilable but are rarelv
necessary (01' small boats, '.
Most amatem' boatbllild el's. when con -
sidel'ing a specific plan, want to know the
approximate weight of the finished boat.
This can be figu r ed by the fo llowing for -
mlll<l: plywood panels I , in, thick weigh ,79
pound pel' sq , ft.: ~~-in. panels weigh 1,125
pounds per sq, ft" ,1I1d panels % in , thick
weigh 2,225 pounds pel' sq, ft.
 "'ri'~"
ll-ft. 6-in.
Skiff
H ANDY," the ll-ft. G-in. plywood skiff,
is id eol l fOJ" all types of rugged row-
br);lling. Constl'udion pl<llls fOI" the ski rr are
s lwwl1 on the following pnge. and a mate-
rinllisl wi ll be found on page 33.
In case 12-fl. sheets emmot be obtained
fOI" the sides il nd bottom, the standard 4 x 8
sh eets may be used and spli ced w ith 11 butt
s trap as s hown in the s ide-piece layout at
Fig. 8. The boHom should be spl iced at the
forward end: t hat is, use the 8-ft. len gth
fmm the tnHlsom forward. All screws
shou ld be brass 0 1' bronze .
The stem is shaped as s hown in Fig . 1 and
beveled, Fig. 2. The ends ,we left sq uare, to
be cut ofT hltCI' when in Ihe boat. Fnl'lllS al'e
made of any sCI'ap materia l obta jn ;:]bll~ and
the notch es fu!' chine pieces arc clil in as
shown in Fi g. 6. A frame piece mus t be
screw-fastened at each e nd o f the tr.Ulsom
to receive phmk or s ide-piece fastcnings.
Th e i.t"ansom :-;hape g iven In Fig.·1 is r01' the
aft cI· side o f tmilSOIll. T ransom and fr.lmc
pieces mtlst be cut at a be ve l. Fig. 3.
S ince the top edges of the s id e pieces are
stnlight, the edge of the plywood C<ln be
used to measure with in laying o u t the
shl1pe of the si<!es. The butt block, if lIsed,
is placed on the inside and is kept ab(lu t 1%
in . lip fro m the bott om to allow for the
chine piece, F ig. 8. Coa t it with casein or
wntellJroof g lue and screw- fasten from the
outside through the side plank into t he butt
strap. usinl-: % -in. No . 8 fl athead \,-,ood
SCrews and countersinking them flu sh . Ma-
arial fO I· the butt strap can be obtained
from the forward corners of the %·in. piece
01· the pieces ordered for the boat bottom.
We are now ready to assemble. The s ide
picces are covel·ed with it layer o f marine
glu e or thick paint and then are screw-fas-
tened into the stem piece. Use I-in. No . 8
wood screws spaced about 1 % in. apart and
stagger·ed. Pu ll the aft ends of the side
pi eces together, slippin g in the forms HS this
is done. Put the transom in place In st b e-
cause it may need a little fitting . Place
candle \vick ing or a light t hread of calking
cotton and h e,wy paint or· glue a long the
transom edges and screw-fasten to frame.
T he chines a re n ow s lipped in and fas-
tened to the s ide pieces, u s ing I-in. No.8
screws spaced on about 2- in . ccnters, with
marine glue or thick paint bctween . These
pi c<:es butt agai nst the stem sides. Bevel the
chines before f;J stening 01· let t he m pro-
trud e about 1f.l in. beyond t he side plank
<md bevel the m later w h en in place.
The boat is now r·e<ldy 10 be fram ed. The
edges of t he side pieces and ch ines are
t l·immed up a nd the Erame-bottom pieces
fitted at t he difTerent stu tions. With these
in place the s ide frames ca n b e be veled and
fi t ted . The entire frame m.1\' be removed
a nd fastened together on th·c bench or in
Lhe boat, as the builde l· elects. Fi rst fit in
fr ·ames 1, 3 a nd 5 and place a br'ace across
the top of each. The forllls are th en re-
moved and framcs fitted.
While the hull is upside down, th e bottom
s hou ld be faslen ed into place . This is cut
Cl:l1"efUUy to s hap e from eith el· a single sh eet
of plywood o r fr om two sheets he ld togeth-
e r· by a butt s l n lp. If a butt s trap is used, it
can be made from the to-in. piece which
w ill be left ove,· from one of the bottom
p;l1lels. Use % - in. No.8 serCws and fastcn
.IS r·eeomm ended for the s ide-plank hutt
st r·ap. Pu t a thl·e.ld of cotton or eand le
wic k ing and th ick paint or· glue between
the boltom and chine piece and fasten into
ch ine and transom w ith 1,I.1-il1. No. 10 wood
~c r e ws spaced about 21,1.1 in . nn center·s.
Now turn the boat rig:ht s ide up lmd in-
st;1I1 t he sca t risers. which are then fol-
lowed by the seats. See Figs. 3 and 9. The
aft seat can be made from pieces left over·
f!"Om the side panels.
The remainder of the job n eeds litt le ex-
p lanation. The chaling str ips sta r t at the
stem a nd end about two feet fw m the t ran-
som. Be sure to cut the stem off flu s h with
the breasthook (see upper right detail of
Fig. 7). Also paint the ins ide of the boat be -
fMC floor boards and aft scat al·C pen lla-
ncntly p laced. Fig. 9. As a final construc-
tion s tep, fit and fasten the guards before
puttin g on the gunwales. GU<lI·ds shou ld be
screw-fastened [rom the insid e through the
sid e plank, using % -in. No.8 screws.
23
 .
'.
·YP".lI" I.
SreM·TO-- I~~" ---l5w'l'
TRANSOM ,:
•
 "SjuYtt"
V-Bottom
Inboard
SPORT" is a V-bottomed inboard ideal- After cnmpl eting ;1 s tudy of the plans,
ly dC!'igncd for fi shing 011 bays, li'lkes 01' s hown on fo llowing p,lges, .l\ul II'c ma terial
sl re'IIllS. The boat is re lat ively fast and lis t. on page 3:1, lay o ul a fu ll-size plan of
ho lds r 0 1l1' pel'sons com fort.ably. clich fra me on a piece of pl y wood. The back
P,me is 14 fl. long w ill cover the bottom of the p lywood pane l to be used (Ol' the deck
and sides from stem to trrmsom. Howcvc,., w ill sel"e this purpose, Layout each frame
if the 14-ft. lengths m-e not immediately from the ce nte l' <mel b<lsC lines, Iltlmbl:!ring
.w.lilah le :11 loca l lumbe r dealers. shorter e;:leh to avoid confusing lilies, Also Iuy out
pane ls mllY be used and spliced <is shown fu ll-size plans of s te m and transom,
in the butt -s tra p detail, Fig. 10. The splices Build the fnunes tirst. F'i gs, 3 t0 9, making
in bottom and side planking, if required, each piece fl 'om the full- size layo u t. Butt
s hould be made toward the stern. thnl is. the joints 1.15 s hown on the plans and tack or
u sc t he R-re length {!"Om the stem <In. cla mp the pieces in position on the filII- size
F aslcni n(ls, marine ~I u e and fillin gs can Inyoll t before fastenin g on the fram e gus-
be plII'cht.sl'd either f]'omiunlbcl' dcalcl'S 01' sets, Be J;u rc t,o use wa tcrpl'oof glue be.
lhe madnc-gnods stores. For fa sten ing the tween a ll jo in ts, An exce llen t procedure is
plywood planking. usc I-in . No.8 fl <1thead It) sc rc w - f;)~tcn th e frame together, thcn re-
sc rews. hl',-ISS o r ga lv11I1ized, Cu:wd !':trips mo\'e the SCI'('\\'S, sprend 1m the glue <'I nd re-
'H'e fastened with] If.!·i n , No, 10 screws, fasten, This pl'events the pm'ts from slip-
F or g()ocl construction, plankin g fa slen- ping out o f pli1ee, In eonstl'ttcting the
ings J;hould be spaced not mOl'e t.han 2 in , tl',Hlsom fram e, Fig, 3, bear ill mind t hnt t he
or 21h in, apart along all plywood joints and tmnsom is on an a ng le of 13:, in, <1nd that
s hould be s taggel'ed, Pl ywood is Fastened notches for gunwa le, chine and keel b'lttens
t.o t.he fmmcs with screws spaced not mo re ' must b e Inid out accordingly. Cut these
thrm 4 in, npArt. In fa s te ning plywood. coun - notches through the fmm c , hu t n ot I.h1'Ough
tc rsink sc rew holes on ly enou gh to permit th e tran som. Layout th e stem pieces C(lre-
drawing screw heads flu sh with the sur- fu ll y from the planllnd fu ll-size layout. See
fa ce. Nevcl' pull SC I'CWS below the s Ul'f;:tce detail s of f;tlse s tem, Fig, 11 .
of plywnod , Be SUt'C t hat erossbands on fram es are
Before beAin ning aclun l buildin g, deter- laid out fr om the base line so that \vhen the
mine whe the l' g lue 01' c<1 1king is to be used frnmes n r e pli1ced on 2 x <1 s tringers, Fig, 2.
nt joints. Many builde rs e mploying plywood they wi ll lille lip propedy for height.
pl;m king prefcI' to use g lued-up construc- The next s tcp is to fasten fram es ill p ....si -
tion th roughou t- bot h nt jo ints and all oth- tinn on 2 x 4 s tl'ingers as s hown in F io. 9.
el' contAct s lll'faces- .Ulc! e limina te a ll ca lk- The knee sec uring transom to keel batten
ing. If so, make s ure a wu te rpl'Oof mm'ine is f;)stened on the same \\,;ly, Temporarily
Altle is used and follow closely din,'Ctions f~l ste ll the s te m and chec k its i1ngle (01'
o f tJ,e mnnufactul'el' in apply ing the glue, bevel) for tJ1(' p lanking by bending n s trip
Use care in fitting all jo ints weU anc! secur- " long the fram es ;:md s tem , When the stem
ing pla nkin t' before g luc sets, If the joints "ngles arc correct. fa sten it permane ntly.
are to b c calked, lea\'e them sli ghtly open Next p lacc the chine s trips and gUllwale
on t.he oUIJ;i dc <1 nd enlk .d ter fasteni ng, bnttells, These s ho uld be beveled to fit t he
T o usslirc a pe rfect sei1 1 of the joint be- s id e of stem , fastened with a screw, then
tween the plank ing .md transom, and bc- bent into p lnee and fastened secure ly,
tween t he b,)\tom planking <'Ind chine, lay In Fig, 8 is ;:l deta il for a n alternate con·
11 s trip o f ou ling flanne l or candle wickin g s t\'llction of the ch ine and g unwa le. This
between the s ul'faces, The fl annel 01' wick- cunstl,uc tion is s uperi or to the other plan
in g should be well -soaked in marine glue or in that it protect s the edges of the planking,
white len d and oil b efore it is laid in. but it requires mOl'c sk ill. In the us ual
25
26
27
method, one edge of the planking can bc left
full to measure and plancd to fit while in
place. Either method is good constn!ction.
With jack plane or jointer, dress the keel
ba tten, fra mes and chine st.rips to the cor-
rect angle so the planking will rest on a full
surface and not ride high at some points.
The (I'ame is now ready for appUcation
of the planking. Fit. the bottom planking
first but do not fasten it. As it takes only
two plywood pa nels for the entire bottom
planking there will be but one joint at the
chine and onc at. the center of the keel bat-
ten . As mentioned previously, if it is nec-
essa ry to cut the bottom planking from a
panel shOl·tel· than full length, work the
longer piece fl'om the bow so the butt strap
occurs ulwl.11'dthe stern where there will be
little strain and no twist.
Cut the plank to measure and bend it
along the bottom, clamping firmly in place.
Mark the plank, carefully remove and cut
to line. Use a bevel square on each fl'ame
to Sl.'CUl'e the angle of cut.
With bottom planks temporm:ily in place,
fit the side planks by the same pl"Ocedure.
Then perm .. nently Cast.en the side planks.
Sta rt. by securing the planks to the stem
first and then be nd ing the planks in place
against the Cra mes. Watch the stem to see
tlmt it is not sprun.g out of shape by the
fi:'st side plnnk applied.
Befol'c fast f'ning the bottom panels, cut
the limbers ;lhout ~~ in. deep x 1 in, wide
(as shown in Fig. 4). The limbers al'e cut in
fram es on each side of the keel batten so
that a ny w .. ter in the boat cnn run the full
length and be pumped or bailed out at one
pla ce rathel' than stand between frames.
Now sec ure the bottom planks, taking
Cnl'e to make a good senl at this point be-
t ween keel batt en and planking.
Aft.er dres1>ing the planking at stem and
keel j Oillt. the keel and shaft log should be
made up. Fig. 13. The keel can be laid out
fl'Ol11 the plan, starting fmm the aft. end. Use
frame No. <1 flS a pos it ioner. The upper part
or the sha ft log, or deadwood as it is also
ca lled, can be cut from the piece left over
Cmm the keel. Set the keel in place on the
boat <lnd the shape can then be obta ined.
HaH the hole for the shaft is cut out of
each piece with a gouge. or it may be cut
sq uare-cornered on a table saw. The two
pieces shou ld next be glued together. After
the glue sets they are screw-fast.ened as
shown. The piece shown cut out of the bot-
tom of the keel aft (on profil e view, Fig. 17),
is to facil itate fa stening. This is necessary
si nce there is very little wood alongside the
shaft hole for a through bolt.
Next. t.h e stem bca l'i ng should be set
tcmponll-ily in place imcl the aft end of the
k eel shaped to suit as shown in the separate
deta il of Fig. 12. You can secure the bearing
"
in place now if yo u wish. The keel then
should be secured on the boat, nailing or
screwing it through the keel batten, Place
p lenty of white lead or mar ine glue under
the keel. A long I-in. auger or bit extension
can be used to extend the shaft hole
through the keel batten. If the a uger or bit
is not obtainable, bore the hole before fas-
tening the keel. Place glue or white lead
unde r the oak shoe and false stem and nail
01' screw-fasten them in place. The boat
may now be turned over.
The three auxiliary floor timbers are
fitted on alongside fr ame No.3 and the oth-
ers as shown in Fig, 12. In addition to the
bolt through the keel , the plywood plank-
in g should be fa stened to the floor timbers
the same as to th e frames. The engine bed
also is fastened in a similar mnnner. Fol-
low through with the seat rise rs. seats, deck
beams, deck , etc .. and complete the boat as
shown in the half-plan, Fig. 18. Remove the
crossbands and paint the boat, leav ing the
noor boa rds to the last. The little oak knees
at the tnmsom corncrs al"e optional but
very good p rac tice. They must be installed
before the gun wale is fitted and the latter
mus t be taper ed at the aft end to 11h in., the
thickness of the knee.
The motor may be from 2% to 6 hp. Mo-
tors wiry in depth below the cra nkshaft, so
th is should be taken into consideration in
the engine bed . As shown in Fig. 17 this
de pth cnn be 5 in. or less. For a greater
depth the motur cnn be moved forward and
fol' .. n extremely deep motor the shaft line
m ust be l·a ised. The seat also can be shifted
fOI·wal·d at fr ame No. 4 for additional room.
The metal sha ft log and stern bearing are
standard marine articles, as are the rudder,
skeg. etc.
In lining up the motor, it is best to first
install the st.em bem'ing, centel'ing the shaft
at both ends of the hole. With the coupling
in place on motor and shaft , the motol" can
be rnised or lowered and sh ifted until the
coupling faces fit all around. A feeler gauge
is a gl'eat help here.
The shaft log should next be fitted to the
keel behind a gasket of light canvas soaked
in paint. A wedge-shaped shim may b e re-
quired if the angle is not correct. Be careful
to ma ke this a watertight connection.
The steer ing arrangement shown in Fig.
17 is optional. A wheel may be substitu ted
for the stick and may be placed at the for-
ward end of the boat if desired.
A few words of caution. Do not cut the
t iller hole through the transom any la rger
than necessm-y, Take into consideration the
depth of a motor before purchasing it. Until
the hull is plank ed, constant care should be
taken to see that the boat is not pulled out
of shape by stresses put on it in bending the
val'ious members into place.
 ",,..,1'u:tfflIt " --
lS-ft. Sailing
Knockabout
A NY SAILBOAT fan-
cier wi lili ke "Tramp,"
the trim. IS-ft. knock-
about thal's so easy to
build in plywood.
The first operation is to
cut the s lem. transom and
s ide planks and assemble
the fo rms. Figs. 1 to 6. Use
casein 01' w<llcrpl"Oof g lue
unde r the butt stl'UP join-
ing the side plunks to-
gether. Screw-f asten
them. llsing: :V,I-in. heavy-
bodi ed wood SC1'CWS of a
s ize n ot less limn No. 10.
Allow 24 hours COl' t.he lap
to dry . The stem is bev-
eled as shown in Fig. 10.
The bevel stops just at the
shee l' l ine. F orms can be
made of almost any scrap
mal cda J on hane!. If you
arc n good enough me-
chanic. they can be dis-
pensed w ith <lnd concel·
ly beve led fl':11nes made to
their cxntt shape can be
placed pe r ma nently in the
boat. Sc rew-fasten the 3tJ_
in. o<lk fr(lm e ( s hown as
dolled lines in Fig. 9) at
sides and bo ttom on the
inside of the transom.
The n notch out the bot-
tom of the fr<!me to re-
ceive t he keel b;:ll1en. Make this <l s nug Ilt. stem bottom ofT fair with the frame. It is
Side planks must then be screw- fa stened best to fa sten stc'm 10 side pieces !'a the]'
to tJw stem tlnd the aft ends pulled toge th- temporarily as it m~ly be necessary to loos-
el., the forms being slipped int o place as en the screws and adjus t the stem so that it
this is being done . The transom is placed fail'S properly into hame No.!. The assem-
last and must he beveled so that the side bling is easiest wilh llle boat upside down.
plank s fit tightly against the clea ts and t he Chines aI'e next and s hou ld be screw-
transom ed ge. Be su re to pl(lce white lead fasten ed hom the olltsid e. lIs ing I-in . No.8
and a thin th read of cotton between planks brass \\'ood screws about 3 in. apill·t. Apply
and ste m and tl'ansom prior to joining them paint between the side pieces and chine.
togeth er. A Iso, in any phase of cons tru ction Deck battens fo Uow in (l si milar manner .
where more t han two pieces m'e joined and A batte n is now ben t along the bottom at
wclle r lightncss is req uired , this same proce- centel"iine. Wi t h this ill place. the shape of
dUl"e s hould be followed. The stem wi ll fil. the frame bottoms is o btai ned. Tacl~ these
into the n otch in frame No.1 in such a m<ln - in p lace at frames 2," and 6 and then fit and
ncr that enough wood is left to bevel the bevel the s ide pieces. The frame should now
29
 2"
•
t~" t%" ~" r•
t6." 17" 17'Mo" ,.
,""

1 ,~" SEAM AT MAST

~",X 2" H" PLYWOOD

STiFFH~U

30
31
be removed fr'lIll the boa t. and fast.ened to-
gether usi ng l lf.! -in. wood screws. A bea m
can be S<lwed t ll s hape with a camb er of
2 % in . in 5 ft. 8 in ., and used as <l patte m
fm· the p lywood brackets. T J-:ese arc c ut to
the camber o f the deck and atl<.tch ed to
fr ame No.2 before p lacing it in the b oat.
Nex t place OJ brace across th e tops of fn:lInes
<1 and 6. Wh e n these are in place remove the
fo r ms and r e p lace w it.h frames. Cut o utlhe
frames [o r the keel batt en befm'e placing
t.hem, s ince this is much easier to do on the
bench.
The k eel batte n is our next step. The for-
wOI'd e nd is p hlced into the st e m . The :V,I -in.
slot for th e ccnl cd}oard sh ou ld be c ut firs t ,
leavi ng a little wood at each end of th e s lot
t o be cu t nut la te r. The centerboa rd tr unk
should be made up. placing hern'y wh ite
le;;\d betwce n the plywood and thc end
pieces. Fasten the plywood to t he % -in .
cneek-pi eccs ;mel the II'unk stifTene l's be-
fo re ass(·mblin g. U se I-in . .screws th!"Ough
the p lywood into Ihe oa k. FI';Hlw No. :3 wi ll
have to h e cut in two, cutting oul a :-; 101.
1:% in. wid e. The centerboard " runk mu s t
fit t ightl y <Iga inst the keel b<:llte n und is
fm.;It'lled lh ro tl ).{h the batten into t h e cheek -
pi ~ce!' w ith ] liz-in. screws. H e re, laO, put
w hit e lea d ,mel cotton in the jo int. Dri ll a
hole {o r t he I,'l!~ in. cen:Cl"ho<:ll'd bolt. 3 lf 2 in.
in from the I'nd <lnd 1 % in. u p fl'om t he bot-
tum of trunk. :.lIld insert t he bol t.
We are n u\\" ready for the bottom. \Vith
the ai d of a ballen as a guide. lake a phm e
and t rim up frames. chines. s tem. etc. Put
on Ihe for ward pi eces firs t. beginning at ~ he
stem lmd llsing a Ih -in.-plywood butt s t rap
as W,IS d on e w ith the sid e pi eces. Fasten
b ottom in lo ch in es and k eel baUen wilh
I- in. N o.8 sc re ws abo ut 21f~ in. a p <trt. Don't.
for get l"e white iefld and ca lking: cotton .
Pac k ci.liking well around t ht.· cenledlO;l1·d
t runk :mcl also tuck it in securely Ott Ul (>
hilmes.
The b;) lilllCe o f the job needs but lillie
explanation as it is just a matter o f fill ing
the P}Il·ts in p i<lct:'. Figs. 7 and 8. Put in the
(l eek b t:' .~ ms. {;lstening th e ir e nds we ll into
fraPle!' 1 ;md 2 <lnd install the plywood
b ··iwl,pls. A p iece of scrap should be fa s-
t p:led insid e the sid e p lank opposite the
c";.lin phltes. Fillel's shou ld b e placed COl'
jlb-sbeet cleat, trave ler, and fair lcads be-
fl-r c p utting on t.he deck. Paint the plywood
,,",ell before stre tching on the can vas. This
~hould b e s tl'etched as tightly as possible
<lnd r:lstened around the edges under the
h a lf-nwnd with gal va nized tacks.
The 1l1<lsl and l·igging. Figs. 12 <1nd 13.
can b e e l'ecled in several w ays. Loops m ay
b e spaced a ro und th e mas t or sock et fit tin gs
mav be ottllci'en to wire and in tUrn to m et-
al s: rips or tangs screwed and bolt ed to the
mast. One -e ighth-in. ail'craft strand may b e
32
s u bs tituted for the :}'i\: -in. wi re shown. If
the buildc l' is n ot fa mi liar with the rigging
of small boats, sec the section on "Mast,
boom a nd fittin gs" o n pilge 174.
The mainsail can be lashed to the boom,
but s lides and a track are h.mdier, though a
little mor e ex pensive. A wood pattern
should b e m ad e for the ce nte rboard , F ig . 12,
a nd tested to make s ure it can be pulled all
the WHY up. The n th e steel centerboa rd is
cut and mo unted. Th e centerboard r ope
belays to a clea t at the side of tbe center·
board trunk.
Fittings for hangi ng the l"llclde r can be
obtained at a marine -hardware store, as
also can the goosencck .
MATERIAL LIST FOR KNOCKABOUT
piece oOl k 01' 1ll0lhog.lIlY. 1% X 111/4 in. x
4 ft.-for stem
1 piece oak or olher h;Il'dwood, 11/4 x 4 in.
x 5 ft.- for stem fa t'C piece
piece oOlk 01' olher Iwnlwood, 1 x 6 in. x
61h ft.-fol· skcg
1 piece oak, % x 3 1,12 in . x 13 ft.-for keel
batten
32 pieces oak % x 3 in . x diag ram-for side
frames .md trunk ends
" pieces oak, % x 1% in. x 16 ft.-for chines
and deck batten
2 pieces mahogany. 1 in . h a lf round x 16 ft.
- for guards
2 pieces fir. spruce. ~~I x 1% in. x 10 !t.-
for cockpit s tringers
piece fir , spruce. 7(1 x ]2 in. x 6 ft.-for
beams
piece £ir, spruce, P /., x 51,2 in. x 5 ft.-for
beams
2 p ieces exterior fir plywood. % x 48 in. x 8
ft.-for side p lanking
2 pieces exterior fir ply wood, % x 48 in. x 8
ft .-for bottom planking
piece exterior fir plywood, Ih. x 48 x 50 in.
-for center board trunk
piece exterior fir plywood. % x 48 in. x 4
ft.-for trunsom, rudder and brackets
piece exterior (ir ply wood. '14 x 48 in. x 8
ft.-for deck
piece exterior fir plywood. % x 48 in. x 4
ft.-for cleek
8 pieces ce<inr. spruce. fir. 'h x 3lh in. x
lO Ih ft.- for floor bou rds
2 pieces mahogany. If.! X 2 in. x 9 ft.-for
coaming
1 piece mahogany, 1h x 6 in. x 4 ft.-for
cockpit ends
1 piece mahogany, Ih x 4 in. x 6 ft.-for
spruyboards
1 piece oak 01" hickol·Y. 1 x 3 in. x 4 ft.-for
tiller
1 p iece spnlce, 3 x 3 in. x 21 ft.-for mast
1 p:ece spruce. 2 x 2 in. x 11 ft.-for boom
1 piece fir or pille. % x 6 in . x 12 ft.-for
forms
3 pieces fir or pine. % x 31h in. x 8 ft.-
for fonns
2 pieces oak. % x 4 in. x 4 ft.-for trunk
cheek- pieces
 MATERIAL LIST FOR INBOARD MATERIAL LIST FOR SKIFF
1 pie<."e oak or fir, 2 x 7 in. x 8 ft.-for keel 1 piece exterior fir plywood , 14 x 48 in. x
a nd deadwood 12 ft.- fo l· foOides
1 piee<! oak, 1% x 2 in . x 9 ft.- for shoe 1 piece exterior til' plywood, ~8 x 48 in . x
12 It .-fol' bottom
1 piece oak, %. x 3 in. x 10 ft.- for keel piece ex te rior (ir p lywood , 3,4 x 15 x 40 in.
batten - for transom
2 pieces oak. % x F!~I in . x 13 ft.-for chines .l- piece cx tc l'ior fir plywood, 3,4 x 15 x 24 in .
2 pieces o<lk, If.l x I 1h in. x 14 ft.- fo r sheer - for forward sent
I" lttcn I51ine;1 1 ft. sp ruce or oak , 3,4 x 3 in.-for
2 pieces oak, lh x 10/.1 in. x 9 ft.-for seat fra me :-;ides
risers l8line;)l ft . spl'uce or oak, % x 1% in .-for
frame bottoms
2 pieces oak or fir, % x I lh in. x 5 ft.-for 2 pieces spruce 01' oak, % x 1% in. x 12 ft .
beam clamp - fa I' chine

':
2 pieces oak, % x 8 in. x 10 ft.- for frame 6 pieces spruce, oak or fir. % x IIh in . x 12
bottoms ft.- fol' gunwll le, gU<lI"d and riser
2 pieces oa k,3/,1 x 4 in. x 10 ft.- for frame G p ieces cedar , sp ruce 0 1' fir, Ih x 3% in. x
sides 8 ft .- fol" floor bOllnb
J piece cedar 0 1' spruce, % x Olh in. x 4 ft.-
piece exterior-type plywood, % x 48 in . tor thwart

I':
xl4ft.or
piece exterior-type p lywood, ~ll x 48 in.
x8fLand
pic<.~ exterior-type plywood, % x 48 in.
x 6 ft.-for bottom planking
p ice<! exterior- type plywood, ~8 x 48 in.
1 piece oak. 1 % x 4 If.! x 24 in .- for stem
1 piece fir 0\' spl·u ce. 1 x :H2 in . x 4 ft.-fo)·
skeg
1 piece oak, % x 1 in. x II ft.- for keel
2 pieces oak , 1h x 1 in. x 10 ft.-fol" chafe
strips

I
xHfL or piece oak. 1112 x 6 in . x 3 ft.-fol" breast-
picl..'C exterior-type plywood, % x 48 in. hook nnd knees
x 8 ft . a nd J.. piece oak, If.! x 10 x 15 in.-for outboard
pad
pic<.'C exterior -type plywood, % x 48 in . 20 pieces fir, pine or scra p, 3,4 x 21h x 3 in.-
x 6 H,- for side pl an k i ng fo r fo rms
1 piece o~ k . 2~2 x I I) x 20 in.-for e ngine bed
p iece exterior - type plywood, % x 48 in. x
5 ft .-for transom seals a nd fra me gu s- Pivoted Footrest in Boat Swings
sets
1 p iece exterio r -type plywood, Ih x 21 in. x Out of the Way for Bailing
4 fl.- to r transom seat
1 piece fir 0 1' pine. ¥~ x 1:1,4 in. x 8 ft.- for
tra :lsom-seat support
1 piece exterior- lype p lywood, 14 x 24 in. x
6 ft.-for deck
1 piece oak, Ih x 31h in. x 3 ft.-for transom
mo tor sti ffeners
1 piece spruce, oa k or fir , ~:1 x 12 in. x 4 ft.-
for beums
1 p iece spruce, oak or fir, 2% x 6 in. x 1 £t.-
for breasthook
1 piece oak, I ¥J x 4 in . x 2 ft.- for stem
1 piece onk.l¥J x 7lh in. x 4 ft.-for forefoot
2 pi eces oak, %, x 1 in. x 9 ft .-for guards
1 piece oak, 1 ~~ x Gin. x 4 It.-for false stem
and 10reCoot
2 pieces cedar or p ine, 3Ji x 3Ih in. x 9 It.-
for floor boards
3 pieces cedar or pine, o/.t x 51h in. x 10 fL-
lor floor boards
2 pieces fi r or p in e, 2 x 4 in . x 12 ft.-for set-
up stringers
1 piece fir or pi ne, 1 x 4 in. x 14 ft.-for
crossbands
1 piece tir or pine, 1 x 3 in. x 6 ft.-for Footrests usually arc attached so that
braces they aI'e in the W<lY when scru b b ing 01'
2 pieces oak, 0/8 x 1% in . x 10 ft.-for g un - b <liling out <l boat. If the rest is pivoted, it
wale may be turned out of the W H Y when n ot in
1 piece oak, Ilh x 4 in . x 2 ft.-for knees use. The p ivo t b o lt shou ld be tight enough
t o hold the ,'est in closed pas i tion.

33

ONCE this detachable keel is installed on
yOU!' I'Owboat and locked in place with the
camming arrangement shown you not only
can I'un fre e before the wind with a s uitable
S<1i! but you also can d o systematic tacking
in any safe sailing waters. Fa;" fishing or
olher uses where the rowbo<1t's shallow
draft is necessary or desirable, simply u n·
clamp t he keel assembly and slide it over
the stern. then unslep the mast ;md there
you al"e. ready for the oars again . Only gen-
eral dimensions al'e given in the details,
Figs. 1 to 5 inclusive, as the clamping yoke
and saddle <llTangement must be made to fit
the boat at hand. The h alves of the saddle
34
"
are shaped to fit the curves oC the hull n ear
t he midship section and the top ends of the
halves are offset slightly as shown to clear
the gunwales. After bending to shape, the
parts are I'iveted to the keel as in Fig, 3.
Proj ecting "ears" 01' pads also are riveted
to the ends of the keel, Fig. 4, to give a more
rigid bearing. Of course you must have a
rudder, Fig. 1, and, if attaching the keel to
a canoe, you will need the rudder board,
Fig. 2. Usually the front seat can be utilized
as a mast step where indicated in Fig. 5.
Only one method of rigging the sail is
shown, There are, naturally, other sailing
rigs which are equally simple and safe.
 PART 3

"Sea~"--
a 25-foot Cabin Cruiser

35
1kwfqllu;{d
"SEA CRAFT"- a 2S-ft.
I DEAL [01' lise on large lakes or riven;,
H!lel flilly S(~ Ol\vfl!'thy fnr ofTshor e ocean
cnlising. "Sea Craft'· is OJ smart c'.Ibin Cl'ui s-
el' designed with an eye toward simple.
low-costconstrllction fo r t he inexperienced
boalbuildcl'. During World Will" II, the
origina l boa 1 was givl:11 severe tests for
se<lwol,thincss \\'hen it was L1sed b v the
United States Coast Guard to lake 'h igh -
ranking ofliccl's hom sh ip to shore. Th e
boat has ,111 o"cI'-all le ngth of 24 ft., 7%
in .. and a bn!;:ltith at. shee r of 7 fL, BY! in.
A COIH'crt cd Cht"ys lcr " 75" ilUlo en gine
casily pushed it along at a cruising s peed
of 15 knots. Howeve r. any marine or con-
verted auto engine of simi 1m" hlln:epowcl'
ma:.' b e used.
Altho ugh Ihis section de scri bes the
building of l\ sedan cr uiser, this p<tl"ticuhw
hul l. with ;1 few ch'lIlges in the cabin conw
s truc\ion, is rcadi ly ad,lpl;1blc to <l s port
fis hel', express cruise r or utility boat. The
cabin design o f Sea Cl'aft was se lected bew
cause it offers one of the best. allwaround
accommodations. Its open cockp it is large
enough fOl" fish ing. lounging or s un batJlw
ing and the mumy c;,"!hin pl'ovides comfortw
able living quarters on a long cruise. It is
equi pped with a frcsh wwater tank, s ink,
cooking stove. toi le t and t.wo hunks. Twr;
addit ional upper bunk s can be fitted 10
sleep a tot~\1 of four. In addition, there is
36
plt'nly of cabin et and s towage s pace for
gea r. The photo, Fig. I, sh ows the c;,bin in-
terior loo kin g forward.
Lay ing o ut, CUll ing and asse mb ling th e
keel and rib s tructure is by fa l' the most
impo r tant operation of huilding the boat.
As t h b fri1mewnrk is the backbone of the
entire boat. the pc rform;mce and be;:luty of
t he craft will depend upon the accuracy
and s kill wilh wh ich the fram ework is
constructed. As prev iou sly mentioned, the
type of cabin, engine and even decking
C,m be changed to s uit the individu<l l
builde r's fancy, but no changes should be
made in the hull if the pl'Oven pe rform-
ance of this cr uiser is to be m;:lintninecl.
The firs t s tep in building a bmlt of this
size is lofting. t hat is, drawing the pro -
file. the plan view and the bodywplHn
vie ws full- size un paper, as shown in Fig.
4. These dnnvings are cut ou t to serve as
palle l'lls for marking and assem blin g the
hu ll fl ';lIne. Full-size. cutout paltcms o f
the keel and ribs arc available to those
who C<l1'e to purchase them . If you intend
to Ill'lke your own p;:ltle r'ns, get a 1'011 of
heavy wrapping paper and edge- lap and
g lu e enough st rips together to make up
the req uired width fol' the h eight from
the base line to the top of the st(!r1l shown
III the profile vicw, F ig, 4. The papel' is
tacked down un a wooden plat fonn-a
Cabin Cruiser

Lorge roomy I:"abin with sleeping CI(commodations and galley provides (omforlClble qUCI" en on long (fuises

37
 " TOP OF KEn

Abov\'!, f ... lI.,i.o half pallorn of eoch

'Iol ion is drawn on heovV pa , or.
lofl, Ihe nolu ,o l cu,ve of a wo " dan
bOllan i .... sed 10 ma,k cu,va; line
conn ec ling holf-bre odlh dim or;sio ns

38
fl (wred attic is an e xcellent place-and the
profi le view is cll·i.!Wn firs!. With a long
:"trai ght cdge or chalk line . lay d O\\~l t he
b:l:;c line . load waleI' line (L.W .L.) and
wate l' lin es (W .L.) from the dime nsion s
give n in Fig. 4. Th en mark o ff the station
point s fl'om 0 to 1~. sp,ll;ing them 2,1 in.
apnl't ,dung the base line.
In the table of oJTse ls lit th e right in Fig .
4, refer to the co lumn which read s atop of
kee L" Notc tha\. s tilli on 0 is blank because
at thi s point th e top of kee l nms into Ihc
bow stem . At s tati on 2 the top of kee l is
the bearding line. Statio n 3 reads 0-8-6
which mea ns the to p of the keel is 8 3,~1 in.
,lbtl vC the bas e line at this po int. All fi g-
lIres in the table of o/rs(.!ts arc in feet. inch-
es nne! eighth in c hes. Fo r exa mple, the G
for station 3 indi cates 'I,. in .. or:% in. Meas-
ure Ih is di stance from the base lin e ,llon g
the No.3 s tati on line and mark it. Fo liow
th is procedure al all s tation lines. marking
e,H;h top-of-kee l point. Drive a sma ll nail
through t he pClper into the fl oor at each
mark and bend a 3 ~1 x I - in. batten against
the nails. It will be necessary to place nails
on both s ides of the batten at some sta-
ti ons to ho ld it in place. The batten should
be straight-grlli ned wood that will bend
easily \"ithout any irregularity jn the
curve it takes. It sho uld be somewhat
longe r than the le ngth of the bOHt as it
\\' ill b e used IMc r to fall' t ill' s hcer. chine
and \\·ate l' li nes in the p lan vi c w. Whe n
the bCltten is in pos ition. tnmsfel' its c uJ'-
" atu re to th e p Cl p e r by dra\\'ing a line along
it. T his is th e s hape of t he top of t he keel.
Th e bottom of thc kcel is stra ig ht. Measur e
8 ~~ in. above the base line at sta tion 0 and
1 in . abovc the hasp Iinc 6V2 in. fo rward of
s tati on 10. Th c ll connect the two points
w ith a line drnwn :llong a straigh tedge or
snap a chalk lin e. The sharp c urve at the
aft end of the keel can b e dmw n free-
hand o r w ith a F re nc h curve. The c hine
;mel sheer lines are drawn in by t he same
met hod lI sed in ploUing the top -o f-keel
line . To draw in the bow s tem, knee and
39

bow-s tem b lock, foll ow t he djml' n sion~
given in Fig. 9. Usc a light, flexih le bat-
ten to fa il' in the curves. Carefully mark
the rabbe t and bearding lin es, as t.h ese
must be Inlllsferred to t he bo w-s t e m
pieces after they iwe assembled.
To ti·,lnsfet· the li nes to the w(lod. cut
the pape r a long: the bottom of the k eel and
forward edge of the bow s tem. Do not cut
t he other lines as the p atten1 w ill be used
later to IllY in the propeller-s h"ft nngle
and motol' mou nts. T he uncut lines C,, 1l be
tl'ansfel'1'ed to the wood by rubbing: the
underside of the papel' with a soft pencil
and then t racing over the lines in a mil/l -
net· s imilat· tu tha t of usin g ca rbon pilpet·.
However, no cu lling sho uld be done un-
til a ll othe r paltems have been made.
The keel is tl1iHle of oak. apitong or
s tr;:lighl-grained Do uglas fi r, and is as-
semb led in two p ieces cut fmm OJ s ingle
piece of timber as indicated by the dotted
lines in Fig. 9. T he aft section. known as
the h orn limbe r. is s pli ced to the kct: l
prope l' as s how n in the pmfile plan. Be
s u re to p lace the bolts ofT- center so they
wi ll not intet'fere when dr illi ng t he pro-
peller-shl'lft h ole through t he kee l. sec
section A-A, Fig. 4. The keel apmn a lso
"
s\,\~~1l
w·
,,'".
I !
',(
vJ . \.. too
I
MAliK
ANGLE
OF CU T
AT All
~ . \. ... 1~'
WATER
LINES
vJ. l.
o ",.
"
"
(MINIMUM )
lIN~ " X"
Angles of sow (III ma,ked
on rib s, obove. o'e (oiled
off b y bondso wye r, le ft,
oS II helpe, lill. loble
shou ld be oak. apitvng VI' DuughlS fir, Hs
in. x 5 1fl in., and extends from the bo\V-
stem block to Ihe Intn sorl1. Bo lt the apt'on
10 the k eel between the sta tio ns. The dot-
dash lines through the h ow -stem pari s in
Fi g. 9 indicate w here t o bolt. them together.
A plan view. as s hown in Fig. 'I, m us t
be drawn full-size in the same manner as
the p rofi le vie\\'. F irst. lay d ow n the cen-
terline and then draw perpendicu lar l ines
act'Oss the paper at eaeh s tation point.
These stat ion lin es s h o uld he la be led
clearly. Refe r to th e table of offs ets in the
ch in e column of the "half-bread ths ft'om
cen terlin e," and measure oIT th e distance
given from the cente rlin e.
F o r example. t'ead ncross the chine co l-
umn under station 3. meas ure o fT the d is-
tance 2-1-2. \'.,hieh is 2 ft.. 11/.1 in ., and mat·k
the sp ot. This is s hown u S d ime nsion A in
Fig. 4. Then drive a s mall nailn t the mark .
Follow th is same procedure at each sta-
t ion fo r the chine. and be nd the lon g bat -
ten agai ns t the n a ils. When fairin g the line.
it may b e found thnt Ule batten will clear
some of the n ai ls by Yr.: 0 1' I/ ji in. Th is is not
se rioll s, The important thing is to have th e
cu r ve follow the na tu t'U 1 b end of t he bat-
ten. When lhe batten fail'S up n icely and
has a smoot h, fln w in~ curve, w h ich ~'n u
can sec by s ight ing with ~' Olll' eye, dnl\\'
in the line. Use the sllInc me t hod for all the wate r
li nes and thl:! s h ee r line unti l vou Iwve B fu ll-s ize
druwing of the plan vicw as in Fig, 4. To avo id con -
fusion later. d t'nw (':tch line;:1 different co lot·.
Full-size dr<lw ings of the body-plan sections. Fig.
4, become pa ttet'lis for Ill ill'k ing the !'ibs .mel assC'tn-
bling the fra mes. CUi a p iec.:e of p"lpe l' fo r each sta -
t ion . The pape t· mlls l he pe rfec tly Sl l'<li~ht <llo n ~ one
of the IOll g sides whic h is llsed as a centerline. D raw
a base lirie a t right illl~ l es to the ccn le din c. 2 in.
from th e b.)tt om edge. T ilkin~ s tation :i as an eX;lm-
pic. dl'il\v in the IOild water linc imd w al eI' lin es 2, 4.
G Bnd 8 PiU'id lel w ith the h;lse line from the dime n-
siuns g:ive n in F ig. 3. Th ese lines are spac.:ed the Silme A compo .. or morking gouge l e i 01 31:0 In.
fOI' illl stillions, Idc'n lify enc h line. is use d 10 ur,be (I lin e confor mi ng '0
T he tnhlc of o lTsf'ts is not used 10 drnw in the lines Ihe conlour o f the oullide . dg e of rib ,
Thil be comes th e inlid • • d ge of the rib
fol' th e rib p<ltte rlls, All d imensions arc tnkc n from
the {:'l ired li nes o f the full -sizc pla n and p rofile draw-
ings. On the pro(i]e dril wi ng, IlH.':'lsurc u p from the
base line fo l' t.he top-of- kC<" 1. c hine ;me! sh eet' Hnes
at s tation 3 and \t'ans fe l' them to t he 5la lion-3 ri b
patte l'll, F t'om these po int s. draw lin es pm'a lle l with
the base line and id<.'n tify ench. On th e pla n view.
measure the d is tmlcc from t ht:! cent e rline tu t he
eh ine ( see dime ns ion A. F ig. 4) <lnd m;.H"k this di s-
tance on t he chine line of the palt e l"ll by meas uring
in from t.he ed ~e of the paper used as <l cente rline,
Follow the s~mu.· p rocedure in trilllsfe ning dime n-
s ions B , C . 0 , E Hlld F . F i~, 4, to t he ir cOlTcspo nding
lines on the rib patl e rn , Dl"i ve ;:1 nail at each po int ,
mill"ked. fait' iI bil t! e n i1g;l in~ t the ll'lils, ;mel scribe
t he line as in Fi g, 2. U:-;i ng a stl"ilig hledgc, sc ribe a
li ne fl"Om t he point mill'ked on the ch ine lin e to <'1
point l:v., in . frolll the edge of the paper on the

Ribs, gunetl Clnd lie bCltl are Cluembl.d dir ec ll y ove r full.sil e patter ns 10 onure OIUl( t alignm e nt. Builder
i, shown drilling bolt holes through gUli e lt a nd ribs . Not e ho w center lin e is mClrhd on tempo.ory tie bar
lop-o f-kee l line . Dim ensio ns fo r the notch
o ver th e kee l ;lprOI1 and limbe r ho les, indi-
cate d in Fi g. 10. nre give n in Fig . 3 nbove
the t.o p-o(-k eel lille. These dime n s io ns ap-
ply to ,111 s tnti on s except st;ltio ns 1 and 2,
w hich arc s lig ht.l y narrower beca use the
a pron t.a pe rs to 31h in. where it joins the
bow-s t.e m b lock.
T o dra w in the no teh for t he chine bat-
te n. drilw a lille paralle l with ilnd 1112 in .
fro m th e f~lire d line at the chine e nd . M ell S-
ure 3 in . alo ng thi s line fr om where it inte r-
sects th e st ra ig ht line fro m the ch ine to
top-u f-k ec l. All c hine no tches nre m a de
t he same w ay with the e xceptio n o f s ta-
tion 1. s how n in the inset. of Fig. 2. Line
X . F ig. 3. indicates \\·here the two rihs join
nnd is lnc;:lted by scribing a lin e fro m the
point of inte rsec t io n of the s tra ight and
fnired lin es to the point of int e rsect io n of
two tines drnwn parallel with <1nd 3 1/ 1 in.
from I.he :-;Irai g ht and faired lines. Cut out
t he pntt.c rn fl S indicated by t he s hml cd iwe n
in Fig. :l. a llowing it to ex tend abo ut an
inc h be yond the shee r line f01" trim. Also,
ma ke a c ut o n li n e X to m a rk the e nds of
the ribs , IS sh o wn in Fig. 7. A ll ,'ib pal -
ter ns a r e dra wn a nd cut o ut as p r ev io u s ly
d e:-;c l"ibcd. e xcepl s ta tio n 12 fo r wh ic h t he
fo llowi ng method is used: On the full -size
plnn v ie'\\, st rike a 12-ft. al"c e x tend ing
a c r oss the chine , s h eer a nd W H LC I' lines
with .a s trin g: cent e re d at s t;ltio n 6. To d e-
termine t he half-breadth dime n s ions fOl'
42
TEMPORARY
m 8AR SHEER I
CENTfRlINE MARKED
ON TIE 8AR
'"
L.
s tatio n 12. 0 1' th e t ran som. measure the
d ist.lnce fro m the cen terline to where the
<1I'C c r osses the wa te r lines.
U se oak. a p ito ng 01 ' vertical-g rained
D o ug las fir. I-in. thi c k, (0 1' rib stock. E a ch
fr a me, with the e xce ption of station 1,
has foul' ribs he ld toge the r with g ussets
Hnd tic bars as s ho wn in Fig, 10. Station
1. being n<1 l"1" o\\'(> I". r equi res only one rib
on each s ide. Mark I he rib s tock by layin g
the full -size pHUCl"Il dire ctly over th e
wood and scribing II pe nc il line alon g the
edge of th e p a tte rn, Fig. 7. A llow at le as t
3 '11 in . for the \.... id th of the r ib. Afte r
m a rking the s heer, ch ine and all water
lines on Ule r ib s toc k , I'efe r to the full-s ize
plan vie w ,1Ild m ea sure the angles a t the
s hee r and wate r lin es wi th a be ve l squi.l re
as indicate d at s ta tion 4, Fig. 4. Then, mark
these angles at th e il' r espective w ater lines
as shown in Fig. 6. Whe n making the an-
g ie cut on a bandsaw, it is fI good idea to
hiwe a helpe l', as in Fig. 5, because he can
change the an gle of the cut as marked <I t
the various wate l' lin es while you guide
the board.
Cut two sets of I' ibs {Ol· each fram e. but
b e sure to r everse th e a ng le cut so that
the ribs can be assembl ed Ci S pa irs. If a
t ilting- table band saw is no t avai lnble . you
can cut th e ang le wi t h a w ood c hi se l 0 1'
block plane a Her the r ib is s awe d . How -
ever, this m e thod is muc h s lO\ve l' and no t
quite as a ccurate. Mmk the line for the
second cut of the rib with a com -
pass or marking gauge set at 3%
in ., as in Fig. 8. L eave the pen-
ci led wateJ'-line marks on the
ribs as they are, but cut a small
notch at the load water line so
that it can be loc(lted aftel' the
frame has been painted.
Assemble the frames eithel' on
11 wooden fioo l' Ol' on two sheets
of plywood fa stened together.
Draw a heavy line on the flom'
to serve as a centerline and line"
up the edge of the full-size pat-
tern with it. The n placc a bottom
<lnd side rib directly over the
pattern to assure perfect align-
ment and tempol'arily nail a
gusset to the l'ibs to hold them
together. Pencil mClrks made on
the fioor ;dong the outside edge of th e J'ibs Fig. 19, make a close adjushnent possihl e.
will help locate theil' position when the pa- The bow stem also must be till ed up pe\'-
per pattern is slid out and turned ove\' to pendicul<1I' athwal'tsliips. This C,-lIl be done
assemble t he ribs for the other side of the with a plumb line fastened to the' top of the
fl'ame. When both sides me assembled. bow stem, as in Fig. 28.
carefully check the distances from eenter~ The transom is made as shown in Figs.
line to sheer on each side (lnd nai l the tem- 15 and 16. The aft edges of the top and bot-
pora1'Y tie bar aCI'oss at watcr line G, <IS tom timbeJ'S have <I convex curve of 12-ft.
shown in Fig. 10. Then bolt the tie bar radius as in the plan view shown previous-
across the bottom w it.h its lower edge flush ly. The top timber is crowned 2 in . and the
with the notch for the keel apron. The tie bottom Umbel' is notched for t h e apron ,
bar is 4 in. wide and is made of the same ,-lI1d tapercd Vs in. from k eel to chine on the
material as the ribs. The gussets are also 1 10wt:I' surface. 'Wh cn flssembled, the l1'an-
in . thick and extend about 8 in. each way sam is bolted to the keel with a knee block,
from the chine corne l'. Theil' curves may ,)s indicated in the lower left-hand detail of
be drawn freehand . Fig. 16. It must be perpendicular to the
The gussets are then bolted to the ribs. base line and exactly centered on t h e keel.
Before removing the frame from the fl oor, Before assembling the r ib frames on the
carefully mark the centerline on the tem- keel, refer to the pl'Clfile view, Fig. 4.
p01'<ll'y tie bal' using a square edge as in- Note that the No.6 fram e st l'add les the 51.<1-
dicated in Fig. 11. lion line and that ft'ames 1 to 5 inclusive
Block ing the Keel
When the keel, apron and
bow-stem parts have been bolt-
ed togethel', a suitable erection
site must be selected. As a boat
of this size, ill most cases, re-
quires being built outdoors on
uneven ground. blocking is nee-
essal'y to support the bottom of
the keel at the COlTect angle in
relation to the base line. A lev-
e led chalk line stretched be-
tween two stakes to cOn'espond
to the b<l.se line of the profrle
drawing, will serve as a starting
point from which to measure
heights of the b locks. The exact
heigh ts can be determined by
taking measurements from the
base h ne to the bottom of the
keel on the full -size profile
drawing. Two wedges driven
between the keel and a block,
 A plonk, exte nding full longth of boot and damped
are forwa rd of the station lines, whe re- to tempo rory ti e bors, os shown in upper left photo,
as frames, 7 to 12 inclusive 'H'e aft of the will help keep frames in proper a lign ment when in-
s tation lines, This refers only to the stallin g the battens and planh. Phato aboye shows
thickness of the rib and docs not apply to interior of the a.sembled frames looking forword
the thickness of t he tie bar. To star t as-
sembling, first. m<lrk e<lch station line on 4" X S"
the apron. Th e n draw a second line repre-
senting the thicklless of the l'ib and se t up 2" X 2" (NET)
the frames b etwee n th e two lin es . Use gal-
\'anized I"g bolts to fasten the frame s to
+fFrHF;~A1
the apron. Fig. 17. A chalk line from the
center of th e keel to the center of the tran-
s om, Fig. 16, is u sed to line up the frames
with the ce nt.e rlines marked on the tempo- All CORNER
JOINTS SOL TEO
1':;1I'Y t ie ba rs on e .. ch {l·ame . The frames
<l lso must be 'It right angles to the keel
a1b wa r tships a nd should he well braced. .'.101.. " 2"X4" t 4"XS"
(NET) \4" 2W '
The chine. wh ich is vedieal-grained oak,
is fitted to the frames in one piece from
I KEEl t SASE LINE

bow to s te rn. T o dct.el'mine t he position on @] TRANSOM

the bow stem where th e chine notch
should be cut. clamp the ch ine in the l'ib
notches and bend it over to the bow stem,
Th e chine notch on the other side of the
bO\\I s tc m should bc e xactly opposite this
.,,' ~~~'~~::6~
AND .N
INTO CROss.
point. Be for e fasten ing t.hem perman e ntly, PI""
be s ure none of the station fram es has
been spl'ung ou t of position . A board
(" ~<!m ped across th e ti e b;lI's as in Figs . 13
a nd 14 will help keep the frames aligned.
Screw the chines to the bow s te m and
11'ansom with P h -in. No, 9 galvanized
screws and bo lt them to each rib gusset as
in Fi g. 17. Sea Craft is planked 'with % - in.
Philippine mahogany, but other woods
~ : uch as wh ite cedar 01' vert.ical-gl'ain ed
Dougln s fil' may be used. Be sure that all
lumber is boat stock and kee p in mind that
it must be wider than t he final width of the
planks, In some cases, a lO-in, piece will
make only a 6-in . plank. Thel'e is no set
widlh for the finished planking. Howe ver, 'EEL
pL~ n king of uniform widths will give the
best appel1rance , The battens are % x
2·in, .md of the same mate rial as the phmk-
il\~, They a re notched into the ri bs Hnd
Illil)' be s pliced 0\'('1' a ril>, When laying out
th e batten notches , meas ure upward from
the bottom of the chine su Ih'lt th e cenl el'-
to-celltcl' disl<uIl:c be tween the bHttcns
will equul the width of the planks , In this
\\',lY, th e scmns betwee n the planks will be
directly over the ce nters o f th e battens as
in Fig , 21. The batten s ;Ire notched into
the bow stem the same as the chines so lhc
p l;mking wi ll fit s nugly into a I'abbet l:ut
in the bow stem , Fig, 18, Notches arc C lIt
at intervals between the 1',lbbct and be.wei -
in~ lines and c hecked for COlTect d ept h
.mel ,mglc lVith a rid, whic h is a sllla ll block
the s.mlt:! thickness ilS the planking, Fig, 18,
Then t he waste is removed bet\\'I~en these
notdlCs to forlll a contin uous rabbet.
Whe n installing the batte ns altemate the m
from port to s \:ll'bo;l]'d si de to equalize the
strain on the fram es,
As the side planks 1'1Jl over the tn111som
~ ASSEMBLED fRAME
LINE VP CENTER
Of RIB FRAMES
TO CHAlI( LINE
CH'' '
•""~'il- lW·X3"
~~~~~~"~8BET liNt!
[!!J 1KnoN..,., THIOUOH nAtION .. LOOKING AF1'
planking, th e Ir,l11snm must be p lanked
firsl. C ovel- the transom fr<'tme wilh lf4-in_
marine plywood and fl1sten \\-ith n<'tt-hc <lded
screws, cou nt ers-unk. Th en screw :%- in,
Illilhogany planking ovel' the plywood,
cuunted)OI'ing th e screw h oles Lo take
wooden plugs as in Fig, 21. For a neat ap-
pearance, \'lin the g rain of the plugs the
same way as the g r.1in of the planking_
When plnnkin£ the s id es, start at the chine
.md alte-mate from :-oide to side, bein g sure
that the plank ends fit correctly into the
bow-stem rabbet. Clamp the plank in
place ilt the how s tem and ma!'k fot' cut-
lin g, Th en remove. cut and rcel. ' mp for
fUrthel- fitting, Re peat until you have a
good joint. I t will be necessary to s team
t.he forw<l\-d ends of a tl planks to prevent
breakage_ T o avoid marring the wood
when clamping the planks, lise H S-ldp of
wood between th e clam p and plank as in
Figs, 12 and 20, Work from the bow to-
w.u'd the stem, k eepi ng the hottom edge
of the plank evcn w ith the bo ttom edge of
CHALK
81NDlNG fAIt:
MARINE OWE'
 WOOD
PlUG

the chine, When in place, mark the in-

side sUl'face of the plnnk alo ng the top edge CALKING
PUTTY
of the (i]'st batten, Then remove the plank
and draw another lin e 1 in , in toward the CAUC:ING
COMPOUND
chine edge, This is the cutting line which
will bring the ed ge of the plank ove]' t.he
center of th e batten, A sligh t bevel for SlCTION
calking, as in Fig, 21. should be p l<lned CAlKfD JOINT
along the edge, Before attaching the plank
p ermanently, coat the chine and lower
hair of th e first batten with marine glue.
Apply mus lin or cotton binding tape and
more glu e. Then clamp the plank firmly
in place and fast en with 1 % - in . No . 8 f1at-
headed galvanized screws at. the ba ttens
and 1 V2-in, screws at the bow stem. Stag-
ger all screws so they do not run in t.he
same grain and plnce about 1 in. apart at
the bow stem and 3 in, a pa r t along the bat-
tens and ribs. Counte]'bore all screw holes
fo r wooden plugs to be 'Hlded la tel'.
Planks can be spliced between the ribs
amidsh ips where the bend is not severe, A
butt block, shown in the inset of Fig. 26, is
used to join the ends of the p lanks. Use
musli n and p len ty of gl ue between the
block and planks. Splices in adjacent
planks should be s taggered as in Fig. 26.
Binding tape is not n eeded in seams above
the L. W. L. Fig, 25 sh ows how t he edges
of the planks ,we d rawn tightly together
with wedge blocks,
Tum the boat ove]' aftcr all the s ide
planks. except the sheer plank. arc in place.
Th is is left ofT to pl'event it f]'om being
damaged. The bow-stem rabbet must be
cont in ued along the enti l'e length of the
keel, and the apron must be beveled flush
with the bottom edge of the ribs. A t th is Planks are butted together between rib, a nd joined
lime, be sure t he notches t h at serve as with a bUll block. Adjacent splice1 are stagsered

46
limbe r holes have been cut in the !'ibs on
eac h s ide of the apron. Fig. Ii. Also be
sure Ihe s topwat el's nrc in pl'lce. TJ1Cse nrc
Ih -in . softwood dowe ls dipped in paint and
driven into holes drilled thmugh the keel
nlhwarts hips b et.wel'1l the ri.lbb et and
bea rding lines at four pi<u.'f'S as in Figs. 4
nnd 9.
The bottom edge of Ihe e hine and chine
plnnk mus t be planed flu sh w it h the bot-
toms of th e r ibs, Test with a smitH squal'c
as dctni led in Fig. 27 . The 'bottom planks.
especia lly forward, I'equ ire conside rable
fittin g ilnd cutting to brin t{ them to ex act
s ha pe. A cilrdboa·l·d te mplate for th e for-
ward e nd of each plank will s implify t.his
fitting job. Fig. 27 shows the unu s ual con-
tours the bottom plank s as.<;u me at the
forward e nd. It is best to install the bot-
tum batte ns as the planking proceeds.
B inding 1.lpe laid in ma rine glue is used on
a U botLom planks. In s lall t he planks nd-
jace nl tu the keel firs t, and then \\'o rk to-
ward the ch ine.
Wh e n Ihis much of the planking is com-
pleted, wooden plugs dipped in marin e
glue "1I'e ddven in to t.he counterbOl'ed
screw holes and c ut oIT flu sh w ith the S tll·-
face. The plugs can be purchased and
should be of the same materia l as the
phmk ing . The bottom of th e keel is planed
flat to approximate ly t.he position of Ille
second station, From this point fo r ward
the keel lakes a slight beve l. wh ich tapers
to a s harp be ve l at the bow stem , shown in
Fi~. 28.
Sand, ca lk and paint the bottom hefOI'e
tuming the hull upright. Although a pow-
e r be lt sand el' is l)J'efe ITed.,I
dis k sandel'
Illay be used if care is take n not to gou ge
the planking, T o dean out the plank joi nts
for c;llking, bend nnd gl'ind the t~lIl g o f a
fi le as shO\\'n in Fig. 22. COlton llHll'ine
ca lking is driven into t he seams with the
calking tool shown in Fig. 23. U sc ple nty
of ca lking a long t he kee l seams. H ov,,'ever,
one s trip be tween planks is u sually enough
b eca use r oom mus t be le ft for t he calking
pully, which is <lpplied w it h a knife ovcr
t he ca lking cottnn . The putty is s lightly
inde nted below the s urface as in Fi g. 2·1. To
preve nt the bottom from dl'ying out, give
it a coat of coppel' bottom paint. The hull
is quite heavy now so probably you w ill
need more he lp to tUrll it over, As the boat
wi ll remain in this posi tion until it is fin-
ish ed. leve l t he L .W.L. and secure ly block
th e hull in pos iti on.
Next. insta ll t he lop 0]' s heer planks .
Carefully fit the bottom edge of the plan ks
and clamp in pos ition on the hull. Tran s fe r
the shee r-line marks on the ribs to t he
s heel' planks a nd cut them s lighlly ove rs iz.e
at the s heer lines to allow for pl .llling !ille r.
Whe n the s heel' planking is in place. p lug
the screw ho les and ca lk t he sea m s. The n
sand the tran som s mooth. fill with a ma -
hogany-co lored wood fi lle r ;lnd foll ow with
t wo coats of marine varnis h. The ins ide of
the hull is painted with a mixture of whi te
lead and linseed nil.
The best way to be vel the edge or th e
bow stem is with a wide wood c hi se l as
s hown in Fig. 28. Although thel·e is enough
"
stock to bdng t.he stem to a sha rp edge,
most boatbuilders prefer a flat e dge ilbout
3f.t in. wide which is faced with a half-
round metal s lrip.
Mounting the Engine
When the planking is completed ,mel the
seams belo w the L.W.L. have becn e:llk..:d,
Simd ilnd givc the planking iI coat of flat
white paint. Th e seams above the L.W .L.
are fi lled late r with :it plastic seam :>c.dcr.
Whe n sand ing, keep the machine constnnt-
Iy in motion to avoid sanding one arCi\ more
than anothe r', thus causing low spol.,.
The 1 x 31h · in. oak shee r clamps, show n
in Figs. 31 and 38, extend from the tl'an som
to s tali OIi 2. Note in Fig. 30 that on e clamp
is p laced abo \'c thc othel' at station 7 where
the s heer' line dmps. When sCl'ewing: the
clamps to each rib. allow the top edges of
the clamps to project iJbove the hull shee r
line slightly. These arc later planed down
to come flu s h with a 2-in. cro\\'n in th e
d ecks . The s heer' clamps from s talinn 1
to t he bow stem a r e lapped and bolted to
the long sheer clamps at stat.ion 1 a nd m'c
faste ne d to t.he bow stem with a block.
At thi s time . decide what kind (If an c n-
gine wi ll bc use d in the boat. A marin e e ll -
gine is bes t. However . many nutomobile
engines work \n~ 1l when cOllver\ed to ma-
r ine usc. Kits arc available for converting
the engine yourself, or a marine m,;lchinist
eocull
.coo meille 'UH
,-
'woo
'"~
mTU
call COil vert YOUI' e n gine by r emoving all
gea rs except the r eve rse and high gears and
installing a thrust beilring. A water pump
to circu late cooling \\,alcl' ~t1 so is necessary.
Sea Craft's Chrys ler engi n e, Fig, 29, was
convel'ted in this W'ly. Note the extl'a o il
s limp welded 1.0 the bollo m of the oiJ pan to
permit the engine 10 oper:l1e on an angle.
The engine-bed pi eces. Fig. 33, are made
of 2-in. oak and bolted to th e e ngine sll'ing-
ers. Fig. 38. which extend fr o m the tnUl-
sam to a 2 x 4-in. li e bar. which replaces
the odginal tie b,w on th e fram e of stalion
6. The engine stringers <Ire placed appmx-
imately par<lllel with th e kee l :lp1'01l. and
are notched out anti scr ewed to the lower
t ransom beam and ribs. If p laced 19 in .
ilpa r t they ", HI accollul1odalc most engines.
HO \ \· E' \·er. th i s dim e n sio n sho uld b e
c hecked with the e ngine bdol'c ins talling
them. Th e floor s t ringers, Figs. 33 and 38.
nrc bolted to th e ou ts id e o f the e ngi ne
s trin gers and arc notched for the ribs to
which th ey are screwcd. The po rt stringer
extends fl'om station 3 to % in . forward of
station 8; starbmu·ti s tringe r hom station 3
t.o 11 % in. aft of s tat ioll 8.
Befo re d etc l'lllilling t.hc shape of engine-
bcd pieces and the locat ion of the pl'Opeller-
s haft hole, the eXHct p llsition of the engine
in the h ull must be d etermi ned. This can
be done' best by making H full-size. cutout
pallern of the L:ngine profi le on heavy pa-
pcr. C;;uefuily ma r k the loca-
tion of thc mounting bl'<lCkets
and center line of the nank-
shaft on the paper. Place the
pattei'll on the full- size proAle
drawing b etween s lati(lIlS 6
and 8 and shift it around until
the crankshaft cen ter line is
at an angle of 10 deg. or less
w ith the L .W.L . Check the oil
pan, flywheel and the trans-
mission housing for clea rance
w it h the a pl'on and ribs. When
t he eng ine patte l'O is in posi-
tion, Fig. 30, fa s ten it down
with tape and d raw an exten-
sion of the crankshaft line
across the k eel a nd apron.
Other parts. such as th e rudder, propeller,
shaft log, I'udd er post and propeller-shaft
stl'llt, show n in Figs. 30 and 33, should b e
on hand so they mny be sketched in on th e
profi le dl'aw in g to check fOl' clearan ce,
A method of h old ing the bi l at the cor-
rect angle whe n d rilling the propeller -
s haft h ole is shown i n Fig, 32. The braces
and slal'ting b lock should be sketched on
the profile draw ing and their exact loca -
tion transfelTcd to the hull. Since t he pro-
peller shdj is 1-in.-diu. Tobin bronze, the
hole must b e 11/., in , It is s tarted with a Auto e ngine converted 10 morine use gives depe ndable,
reg ular wood bit because a " barefoot" low-cosl power. Only high and reve rse geon ore used
 C.... INTOP
" " _'. , CANYAS O'VtR

~~~~~~~~
i 16" W.P. PLYWOOD
flUErt ILOCK

.. EXTENSION
.n
,.. NOTCHED BRACES
HOlD all IN
T08IN .BRONZE
SHAFT
'ROPU ALIGNMENT
,
14" X, ...
• U....

APRON OETUM1NE
fROM FUll-SilE
PIIOfllE DRAWING

I!!l ORIWNG HOlf FOR PItOPHUR SHAfT

50
 M'" STOCK NOTCHED
TO CLEAR RISS
ENGINE
"D

A-MAST UGHT
I-COMBINATION LICHT
C-MOORINO ,Irr W' X '" BASEl
D-(;ASOUN(.LlNE SHUTOff V.... LVE
[ -COPPER JUllNO (GASOLINE UNf)
f-G .... SOUN[.UNE fiLTER
G-ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP
H-UGAL. GASOLINE TANK
I- THROUGH.HULl, GA$OI.INf-TANK VENT
J-PIPE DECK PlATE (lor flllI~g Go>oII~. Tonk)
K-V," STUDS
L· RUDDER PORT WITH SJUfflNO lOX
M- PROPElLU.5HAfT LOG
1'1 -MARIN! COMP .... SS
O-fORWARD AND REVU5E SHifT LEVER
P- DR .... 'N PLATE
Q- FLUSH .TYPE LIftiNG H.... NDLE
R-fLOOR H~" PLYWOOD COVERED WITH
liNOlEUM)
5_2" X .... $HEET·MET .... L VENTILATING DUCT
T- ISGAL IRESH·WAlER T.... NK
U_ fRESH ,W....rU ' .... uerT
'1- 12" X 12" C .... LLEY SINX
w_rwo 6-VOI.r STORAGE BAnfliU

"

ship auger has no lead screw. In t he event
the hole l·uns out slightly, a bar of iron
healed red-hot can be used to burn the hole
in the proper direction.
Next, bolt the propeller-shaft strut to
the kee l, and drill a hole thl'Ough the tran-
som kn ee, apron and keel to take the rud-
der port. L(]cat ~ the positions of the strut
and port from the sketches made on the
$.HutOfF •
VA1Yl!
,.."
GAS01JNf TANK
52
profile drawing. A ssemble the shaft log to
the apron temporarily with two wood
screws and insert the propeller shaft. A
flanged coupling is used to conned the
shaft to the eng ine. The engine stub shaft
and the propeller shaft will requirc some
machining to take the flanged coupling.
AItcr setting the engine on its bed, it can
be lined up with the shaft by bringing the
faces of the coupling flanges together and
gauging the distance b et ween them at foul'
places 90 deg. apart around their periphery
with a mechanic's feeler gauge. The shaft
log may have to be shifted somewhat and
the engine raised or lowered to get them
in propel' alignment. If the installation
makes it impossible to line up the engine
and shaft, a univel·sal joint and thrust
bearing can be installed between the cou-
pling and shaft log. Aftel· the boat has been
in the water a while, the propeller shaft
may start to "pound" due to dampness
from the bilge swelling the engine bed and
throwing the motor out of alignment. How-
ever, Ollce the motor has been realigned it
rarely requires further adjustment.
Although many boats do not have a
clutch-control pedal, it will be found useful.
If an automobile engine is used , it is a sim-
ple task to saw oft the clutch pedal. install
the necessary linkage and connect to a foot
pedal extending out of the control box, Fig.
37. The gearshift lever also is sawed oft and
connected to the forward and reverse level·
as in Figs. 30 and 38.
Water to cool the engine is piped from an
intake scoop to the pump. The scoop is fitted in a
hole drilled in the bottom of the hull. Engine
exhaust gases arc carried through a 2 %- in.
galvan ized pipe f1'01ll the engine manifold to a
hole in the transom 2 in. above the L .W.L. Cool-
ing wate)' from the engine also runs out the
exhallst pipe. Asbestos must be wrapped
around the exhaust p ipe between the manifold
and the cooling- water-pipe connection. The
water keeps the rest of the ex haust. pipe cool.
Sea Craft h as two 24-gal. round tanks sup -
por ted by cradles. However, any type of ma-
l'inc gasoline tanks can be used provided they
havc the fill pipe connected to deck p late:; lo-
cated on an open deck so there is no danger of
gasoline being spilled into t h e bi lge . The tanks
<lIsa must be vented through the hull as indi-
cated. Copper tubing, coiled to absorb vibra-
tion , carries the gasoline to th e engine by
means of an electric pump. The tank outlet is
the type fitted to the top of the tank to minimize
the possibility of leakage.
Air for engine and b ilge ventilation is sup-
plied by sheet-metal ducts between stations 6
and 7, F igs. 30 and 35. Cil'culalion is maintained
by two plate vents in the transom .

Cohin Construction
T he size of the cabin and the arrangement
of the bunks, cabinets and bu lkheads is a mat-
ter of personal choice and may be changed
without alTecting the performance of the boat.
If more headl'oom is required, the cab in sides
can be made higher or, if less headroom is de-
sired, t he cabin Hoar may be raised slightly.

"
,II
--- --------- I] ----1
: TMIS SKllOH Of FlOOIl. t il
uns UP fl\~ PlYWOOD) I ' I

:
-'
I!
------'-'--
:: .!
'"
,~
....
_______ __ I,
w___ _ J'
Also. the leng th of the cabin ca n be s hol't-
ened to provide a larger open coc kpit . How-
ever, rega rdless o f the changes made . the
m eth ods o f cons truction s ho\\-/1 in the draw-
ings s hould be fo llowed. All structll1'al
membe rs must be fa s tened to the fl'ames ,
never d irect.ly to t he hull planking . Stock-
size HI' OJ' s p ruce can be used for most o f t he
fn.unin g and t he plywood must be of the
typc made especi a lly for marine use.
Sea CI'aft's forward deck extends from
th e bow to s tation 2. Two deck stringers,
s hown in the upper drawing of Fig . 42. arc
bo iled to the aft and fOI'Wa l'd sid es o f the
fI'am es at stations I an d 2 as s hown in Fig.
38. The top edges of the std ngel's al'e
notched for the cradle of the fresh- water
tank and;) t V.!. x 6-i n . center beam. which
is bo lted to the s tringers as s how n in Figs.
30 and 38. The shape of the cradle, which
is mad e of l ifo! x 3-in. oak , must bc dele l'-
mined by the tank dimensions. Re(ci' to
the perspec ti ve dmwing, Fig. 33. fOJ' clari -
fication . The fram e (Or the hatchway open-
ing, ind icated in Fi g. 38. proj ects 2 in. above
the stringer. Th is opening g ives access to
t he cha in locke r. w hich is floored and par-
titioned as s hown in Figs. 30 and 42. C lea ts
of 1 x I-in . stock. scre"'ed to the sides of
the hatch way fram e flu s h with t.he top ed ge
of the st ri nger. s upport the % -in . plywood .
which is sc rewed down to covel' the e n Lire
deck arca . Aft e r the plywood has been cov·
ereel with mari ne gl ue and canvas, it is
planked with If.!. x 3-in. mahogany. The
white lin es be tween the planks are made b y
b eveling the planks slightly , as f01" calking,
and then All ing the resulting gl'ooves with
sea ling compound. Alth o u g h t he 3- in.
plank ing em be laid to t h e s heer line. a
margi n p lank on each side, as in F ig. 40, wi ll
impr!)ve the appeal·ance. Details o f the
hulkh e,l d a t station 2 are given in Fi ~s . 4 1,
42 and 43.
The cockpi t fl oo r is s upport ed by timbe r:;;
which extend ;Hhw8. rtships and bo lt to the
forward si des of (1"<l!nes 9. 10 a nd 11 and
the aft s ide of fnlme 8. A pol"tion of t he
"
coc kpi t fl oor timber a t station 8 is S<"lwed
oul later for the s tail' well to the cabin .
Note in Fig. 40 tha t the ce nte r sec tion of
t he fl oor is re movable and th at it I'ests on
t wo s h'ips o f l ~s x H~-i n . stock which are
notched into the i.lthwHrtship floor timbers.
The outboard edges of the st l"ips are 10·
cRted direc tly above the e ngine stringers.
These pieces ex te nd from s tation 8 to the
verticalli'ansom braces. Fig . 37 s hows this
section of fl oO!' I·emovcel.
The s tern-deck stringe r. which is crowned
2 in .. the same i.IS the top transom limber.
is placed 16 in. for ward o f the t1'ansom and
lag-bolted to a 3- in . knee block fas tened to
the s heer c lamp and t ransom timbe ,' as in-
dicated in Figs. 40 and <11.
The cabin sides are inShllled next. First
make the H~ - i n.-th i c k s pacer block s s hown
in Fig. 40. Considerabl e fitting will be re -
quired when insta lling t he blocks. The in-
board edges of the bloc ks must be pel'pen -
diculur to the base li ne and their top edges
must be on a slight d ownward angle to the
s heer line to coincide with t.he 2-in. crown
o f the decks. When fitte d , toenai l them to
the s heer clamp . Note that the dimensions
fOl" the blocks at s tations 3. 4 and 5 h ave
been omitted. These "I'e insta ll ed after the
ca bin sides are clamped in position .
Each cabin sid e is mad.e up of three
pieces of 1 % -in. (P~ , ; in . net ) mahogany,
s p li ned and g lued as indicated in Fig. 31.
The tota l width of the g lued· up bO<lrds
s ho uld be not less t.han 28 in. If three 9%-
in. boards are used, each side will require
two p ieces 20 fl. long and one piece 16 ft.
long . However . if the h eadroom is to be in -
creased , the width of t he cabin sideboa rd s
must a lso be in cr eased . To lay o ut the shape
o f the sides. join t the seam edges of the
boards and lay the m together on a flal SUI" -
face . As the lower cOl'ners of the cab in
s id es are notched to fit 3 1,2 in . be low the
s hee l' line between the bulkhead at station
2 and the s tel"ll-deck stringel', t he devel-
oped length mus t be ob tained . This can be
d one best by fairing a batten against the
blocks and cutting it ofT
to fit between th e bulk-
he;"d and the stringer,
With the batten in place.
mark the position of each
:-;Iation on iI, the n remove.
p lace on the cabin side-
boards and transfer the
station locations to the
sideboards, Dt,iJ,W lines
ac ross t he boa rds perpen-
dicular to the seams at
the station marks and
ends of the batten . Note
in Fig. 40, section G-G.
that the cabin side P!"O-
ject:;; over the forwa I'd
deck 5 ~2 in. A chalk line
para ll el with and 6'P/.,
in. above th e L.W.L. is
st t'etched bel ween two
tem porary upright braces
.at :-;tation 2 ;JIld the tran -
som to represent the lop
of the cabin side:;. The dis-
hlllce between the ch alk
line and the bottom of the
shcer clamp o r block s at
each station is measured
<:md transfc lTed to the
cabin sideboards. A line
connecting these points
gives th e bottom cutling
line of the c<lbin s ide. The
line betwcen s tations G
and; drops abruptly be-
cause of the s h eet' dl"l)p .
The c urved lin es of the
cockpit si d es illld cutouts
fur the windows ar e
drawn freehand with the
aid of a paHem of squared
lines drawn lightly on the
boards as in Figs. 30 and
41 . The aft ends of the
cabin sides project about
J % in. over the stem deck.
When culling t he spline
grouves, stop th e m " 0 they
wi ll not rUIl out in the end
grain of the windows ilnd
the curve of the cockpit
sides. The forward edge
can run Ollt ilS it is cov-
e red by the windshield
frame . Whe n assembling
;he boards. use m<:trinc
glue a nd ChllllP secut'cly
unlil dry. Th e n la yout
the port-light hole and
th e forward end \\'hieh
s lopcs about 36 deg. olT
the ve rtical. After sawing.
rabbet the edges of the
window openings, as

"
 shown in Fig. 31 , to take
the plate-glass windows,
wh ich are ins talled late r.
A s both cabin s ides are
the S ilill C, the completed
one can be used as a pa t-
k'rn 10 layout th e second
side. Care s hould b e Ink -
en 1(1 mak e the rabbeted
edge around the window
openin gs on th e outside of
c<1ch piece.
Wh en in s tallin g the
c;lb in s ides, nail te mpo-
l'arv ti c bal'sacross frames
5. 6 ;tIl ei 7 just below the
sheer CI;II11pS. and usc
t i ill b~'rs fmd wedges or
;:lulomobilc jacks at s ta -
tions 6 ;mel 7 to forc e t he
cab in s id es ngainst the
s pa ce l' bl ocks. Before
making th e s pacer blocks
for s(;ltions 3, 4 and 5,
wedge and clamp the cab-
in s ides un ti l they arc
fairly stra ight between
stat io n s 2 <1nd 5 so the
winduw g hlss wil l SCf\1
tight Hgains t the rabbeted
edges. Whe n th e sides arc
c i;1Il1ped firm ly in posi -
tioll. bolt them to the
s heer c l amps i.lt each
s pacer block with large-
h ead ed. :i~ -in . ga lvanized
ci.lrriage bolt s. Cou nte r-
sink nU bolts and plug the
ho les for neat appearance.
B e fore removing the
clamps. ins tall the cab in-
top beams shown in Figs.
35 and 40. Th e forward
b cam is placed 7% in. aft
of II'c fo rward top corn ers
of the cabin sides. The
other f.-ames .we s paced
uniformly w ith one di-
rect.!y above the f,·arne at
station G. They are
sCI'ewcd to the top edge of
the C<lbin s ides and have
filler bloc ks b e tw een
them as in F igs. 31 and 39.
The aft beam is cut oIT
fl ush with the inboard
s id es of t he cabin sides
and scrcwcd to th e 1 x
7% -in. beam shown in
Figs. 4 1 and 42. The top
s id es of the beams ar~
notch ed in the center to
take a If.! x 4-in . piece of
mahog:my <I S sh own in
Fig. 40.

"

Stock-s ize lllmbl:l" is used fo r the coc k-
pit-bulkhead frilming dimensio ned in sec-
tion 8 of Fig. 42. The framing for the e ngine
compartm e nt. to ilet room and chart ca bi-
net, s hown in Figs. 30 and 35. is an integral
part of the bulkhead framing and should
be insta lled ,lt this time.
finishing the Cabin
Continu ing with the cabin int erinr, in-
stall the framin g and plywood covering of
th e pClrt :md starboard bunks a nd fonvl;lZ·d
cabinels. Th e top of t he port-side cab ine t
is cut out to t"ke a 12 x 12-in. ga lley s ink.
which drain s through the hull. as in Fig. 43.
Fresh W;.Ltcr is piped to a faucet lilt ed
through the bulkhead . Fig. 30. The bunk
maltresses ,u'e supported on a removable
frame woven of budap Wt;L)oiug . as III Fig.
33. They <Irc ke p t in place by a l '/2-in. pm-
jectioll of the plywood bunk s ides. which
ex lend down over the inboard sides of the
floO!' st ringers. The hull I'ibs above the
bun k fram es tire covel'ed with Ih -in. 111<1-
hog •.lI)y, Figs. 11 ilnd 42. The center of the
cabin floo r is mHcle in two remov<lble sec-
tions. each supported by d E'llts fastened
to t he plywood bunk s ides llnd fl ool" timbe l"s
which al'e b nited to the fram es on top of the
tic burs ( see s tation 3. Fig . 4~). Note thnt
the f1oO!' s lopes to ob t..c,in maximum head -
mom ilt sta tion G. The cabin floo l" on both
sides of th e cngine compartment is fa stened
perman e ntly to the top edges of the floor
stl"lnge rs anc! f1oO!' timbers, F igs. 35 and 38.
loco'ion of e ng in e controis in
'he cockpi' p er m,ts unobstruct-
ed view for close mClnluver,ng
Before cov e rin~ the cockpit-bulkhead
framing, insta ll the water clos et. which
must be purchased fr om a marine supply
house. Plywood is u sed for the walls and
doors of the toile t !"tWill. eng ine compart-
ment and ch,ut cabinel. Note in Fi g. 35
thilt the sides and top of t.he engine com-
))ar(ment are removable . They ,Ilso mllst be
lined with asbestos. The sides are h eld in
place a t the top by hooks ;md at the bot lam
with quarter round nailed to t.he floor. One
side and the top arc s h own rcmoved in Fig.
36. An alcohol cooking stove is bolted in a
s hee t-metal cabinet mounted on the bulk-
head frame. The c<lbinet must be remO\',l -
ble for access to the rear of the control box
as detailed in Figs. 43 and 49. This box
houses the compass. elect rical switches. en -
gine C011tl"Ols and stccri ng: gear. An inspec -
tion door in the fronl of the box. Fig. 3i.
is held in place with b l";:lss dool" buttons
and plates.
The steering sys l~~m. Figs. 30 and 3R.
consists of an automubile steering knuckl e
of the worm~gcar type bolted in t he control
box so that a s teering whee l can be fastened
to the worm s haft. Th e stub shaft of the
worm gear is welded to a ve r tical sh<lft e x-
lending below the cock p it floo r. Level'
..Inns attached to the lower end of the s.haft
and rudder p ost <Ire connected with a steer-
ing rod of I,~ -in. pipe. which has a cle vis
welded to each e nd. A h,uld-operated bilge
pump is fas tened to rhe PMt s ide of the con-
trol box with the ou tl e t jo in ed to a ~~ -in.
59
 CABIN WINDSHIELD
(TRIM TO SIZE
AfTER ASSEMBLING)

~
?,-- ' "
/

'; ~
All JOINTS DOU,~m D
AND GL

HOlE FOR
flAGPOlE

I
~
CHART
CABINET

60
 ~OCKPIT
WINDS HIE LD
COCKP IT SEAT
If," X 3"
WIRES TO
CONTROl
,
STERN.DECK

SWITCHES

GUARD
RAil

2"·GAL.
GASOllN~ TAN K

PERSPECTIVE Of INBOA~D PROfiLE

(Show ing Sto,b"""d Sido)

A_SKENE BULWARK BOW CHOCK

I _MOORING lin
C_ PIPE DECK PLAT(
(f", Fillinll F'e,~·Wot., Tonk)
D-15-GAt. 'USH·WATE R TANK
E- Po.r lIGHT
f-SHfET·ME1Al VEt>tlllATlt>tG DUCT
G-MARINE·TYPE lUMP CLOSET
H- PIPE ORK PLATE
(Fo, Fillinll Co..,line Tonk)
J-FLAGPOlE SOCKET

"

/
-'

61
"Sea Crafl's" lin es show 10 best advantage when viewed off Ihe bow. Cabin roof can be used for sun bathing
ga lvanized pipe mnning undCl' the cock -
pit flool' to a hole in the transom. The pump
intake is connected to <l hose extending
d own to lhe bilge.
The cabin .sL'lirway, Figs. 41 and 43, is
covered with a trap door which pI'ojects
unde ]' the cabin door when closed, prevent-
ing enh'ance to the cabin when the cabin
doo]' is locked.
Two 6-volt storage batteries, placed in a
box under the cockpit floor are connected
to a S.P.D.T. sw itch located in the control
box. The wiring hookup should be arranged
so the batteries may be used individually.
The stern deck is made of the same mate-
rial as the forward deck. It is crowncd 2
in and the forward edge curved to conform
with the radius of the cockpit seat, as jn
Fig. 47 and also Figs. 40 and 41. The seat
top is made from th]'ee pieces of plywood
and is removable for access to storage space
beneath. This provides an ideal place to
store life preservers. The side decks or
shelves, extending from the sheer drop to
the transom, should be installed at the same
time as the stern deck. They are of % -in.
mahogany cut to fit snugly against the cab-
in sides and trimmed flush with the hull
planking. The shelves, forward of the sheer
drop, a]'e of ¥.I -in. plywood covered with
canvas to provide a nonslip surface. They
must be notched to clear the ventilating
ducts. A block of wood is inserted between
the fore and aft shelves where the sheer
line d "ops, and %-in . quarter round is used
along the joint of the shelf and cabin side.
62
Before the cabin top is put on , cut grooves
in the center strip for the insulated elec-
trical wires, as in Figs. 46 and 47. These
wires, which are connected to switches on
the control-box panel, are brought thl'Ough
holes in the cabin top to the combination
light, mast light and a horn \vhich is ' re-
quired for a boat of this si7.e. The wil'es
leading to the cabin dome lights and toilet-
room wall light, which have individual
switches, are connected dh'ectly to an am-
meter on t.he panel.
The two ou ter supports for the cockpit
windshield are shown in pattern squan~s in
Fig. 41. Each side is made f]'om two pieces
doweled and glu ed together at the top and
screwed to the top edge of the cabin sides,
Fig. 48. For the cabin roof. two pieces of
% -in. plywood 4 x 12 ft. are needed . These
are joined at the center. notched to clear
the windshie ld supports and come flush
with the bulkhead covering. and are
trimmed slightly oversize along the cabin
sides. When screwing the roof to the center
strip and cabin-top beams, start at the cen-
ter and work outward. Saw off the forward
end of the plywood flush with the fmnt
edge of the first cabin-top beam and plane
the sides to a well-rounded corner to blend
into the filler blocks. The front of the cabin
top is shaped from a timber, as in Fi g. 45.
The entire top is coated with canvas cement
and one piece of canvas stretched tightly
and tacked along the sides just below the
seam between the filler blocks and cabin
sides. The fonvard edge of the canvas is
Top of th e . n9in. comportment
n.yu 01 a tobl. when prepar.
in9 food in the uuin,' 1 (obin

tacked u nde r the front

edge o f t he s h'l ped timber
and the a ft edge is tack ed
to t he bu lk head . The can-
vas t hen is ~ i vc n several
coa ts of th inned pa int.
Ha lf-round m a h og an y
mold ing covers t he tacked
ed ges uf i.he canva s a lon g
the ca b in sid es and bu lk-
head . The cockpit wind-
shi eld is comp le ted , as in
sectio ns F -F ilnd E-E of
Fig, 'II. The mast, a lso
det.c"l ilcd in Fig. 41 , s up-
ports 11 while lig h t. Sec-
tion D· D o f Fig. 41 g ives
the dim ensions of h and-
ra ils litted to the cabin top . place w ith lead bead ing, as in Figs. 31 and
The cabin w inds h ield, Fig, 45, fi ts into a 41. Mahogany tin the int er ior of Sea Craft 's
rabbet cu t in t hree p ieces of 1Ifl -in . s tock , cabi n was s ta ined a nd va l'l1 ishcd and the
two o f whic h ,1I'e screwed to t he fo rward plywood pa intcd whi te. HS in F ig. 44. The
edges o f the cabi n s id es, sect ion C-C o f boat must be provided w ith a fi re extin-
F ig. 41 , ,mel one placed hor izonta lly ac ross g ui sher which should be muun ted on the
the for ward deck . Widths will vary some- cablll side wa ll Hbu\'e t he e h;.ll"t cabinet.
wha t wi th each boa t. Note in Fig. 47 t ha t G ive the bottom of t he hull a nother coat o f
t he I·abbe t o n the a t hwa rtship p iece is cu t copper bottom pai nt ;md launch while the
at a n a ngle to fit a 36·deg. bevel on t he pa int is \\"et.
lower edge o f the w inds h ield . Toe I'ai ls ex- A boa t of this size mu s t Cil lTY regis t rat.ion
.o;:r.d ing fro m the breast hook at the bow to numbe rs. ApplicHt ion for .1 cert ificate o f
st."lilon 4 on both s ides alo ng the sh eer, Figs. awa l'd of numbe r c.m be m':lde by the boat
40 ;.md 41 , nrc sc n~wed to th e deck pla nki ng own er to the Di stric t Coast Gua l·d Officer
as in the u ppe r de tail of Fig. 42 . The SCHm hav ing jurisdiction ove r the .H·ea i ! l which
be t ween the hull and d eck planking a t the the owner res ides. S ec page 175.
sheet" is co vc l·ed with l %-in . hnlf-round In addition to a set of seven workin g-
mo lding. Thi s a lso is u sed for the g ua rd rail size b luepl"int s, fu ll-s ize paper patterns for
a lthe a ft c nd o f th e hull, Fig . 41. The hal ch th e h u ll fnll1ws imd kee l a rc also avai lab le
CO V C I" fOl" the cha in locker should be a s n ug from th e Blu eprin t Departme nt of Popu-
fi t. It is plank ed w ith If.!; x 3-in. nl<lhogn ny 1m· Mechanics Press.
0 \, (' 1' I/.I-in . plywood , which is rabbetc-d inlo
th e l Op cd ges o f t he covel' fram e.
Before pa i nt i n g the extel'iOl-, m nrk the
L .W.L. on the hu ll and fill the plank ing
seams above t his line with a fr esh 01· salt-
wa l e l· sea m sea le r. Give the h u ll th ree or
fO ll r coa ts of na t-w hi te nUlI'inc pain t abuve
the L.W,L .. s.lIld ing t he hull by h.md .. fte l·
each coa t. Then <lpply a mix t ure of fla t ,md
glossy wh ite pn in l and follow with a co,ll
of g lossy wh ite. The decks, cab in s id es a nd
wi nd:<:h icld frames are sanded , and a ma-
hogany -eo lo l·cd wood fill e l- or a sta in is
appl ied, after which tlu'ce coa ls of ma rine
\"<lmish .we appli ed , sand ing th e (h'st two
coals. Deck - p lan k seams a rc (il1 C'·d wit h a
wh ite sea m sca lel' before vam ishing.
All ex terilll' ha nlwal·e is insta ll ed nex t.
The fo re ;md a ft mooring h ilts mus t be
boiled secure ly in posi tion to w iths tand
consid e rable s tra in. P late glass fOl" the
wi ndshi e lds und cabin windows is held in

63
Sealed-Beam Auto Headlight Makes Spotlight for Cabin Cruiser
AN EFFI C IE N T , low -
cost spotlight fo r <l cilbin
c ru ise r CiUl be made fro m
a sea led- beam ca r head-
l ight of t h e b u mpH-
mou nt ed ty pe. T he u n it is
conll'Oil ed remotely fro m
in s ide t he ca bin n nd
t h rows a n e lli ptical spot 11
q ua r tel' of a m il e Or mo rc,
making it idea l fOl'sight-
ing bu uys. The h ead light
is pivo ted 0 11 its orig ina l
mounting b l'acke t w h ich
is cu t and d r ille d to s uit.
The rest o f t he un it is
made (!'Om b r<lss p ipe fi t-
tin gs, w ith the e x ce ption 'h" BRASS
PIPf Wil li
-+-..", '." SR. PIN

of a piece of l/.t- in. coppe r ' , ' SLOT

tubi ng used as a n .lnn [0 1'
con t rolling the ligh t \'C l'-
t iCOllly. Howeve l', gal va -
n ized fitti ngs will do if d e -
sired . The unit is atta che d
to the cabin roof by means
of a pipe flange th ro ug h
w h ich a 4- in . le n gth o f
p ipe is tunll.-d. Note that
the th l'cilds of t he pi pe a re
ex t en d e d so it can be
SCI"ewcd into the fl a nge to
p .-oject be low th e ca bin
cei ling. Scn m compound
is a ppli ed libera ll y a ro und
the hole in the roof befo re
t he J1..II1gc is sCI·ewed or
bolted in place. The pipc
ca ps attached to each e nd of th is le n gth of
p ipe arc f;lced o r fil e d flat and cenlcr-
d r ille d to tak e a % -in . pipe. The s lotte d If2-
in . p ipe fo r later al co ntrol is polished
s moo th . The s lo t also is polis hed 10 allow
the cont rol arm to s lide freel y. A top bear-
ing is pl'ov ided by s w e;:lt-solderin g .t co llar
to the pipe j ust be lo w the s lot. Anothe r col-
hi ". w hic h is a s lide fit o n the pipe. is at-
t;lche d to its lower e nd w ith a s etsc "ew and
serves as a bottom bearing . The 12-in.
le ng th o f I/.I- in . p ipe wh ich m ises a nd
lowers the con trol ann s hould b e a sliding
fit ins id e the lh -in. p ipe a nd will require
b ush ing. This can be d o ne by s pot-solder-
ing sh im s tock to the inside of t he Ih - in.
p ipe a l the botto m of the slo t a nd a t the
lowe r e nd o f the p ipe. One end of the co n-
t l'ol a rm is flatte ned a nd s lotted a nd the
other e nd is threaded to screw into a h ole
tlJ PPt.'Cl in the lI.! -in . p ipe. II e q u ipm ent is
ilvail a ble , these parts s hou ld b e b r a zed to -
gethel'. N o te h ow this arm is ben t to pe l'-
mi t rais ing the lig ht. The mount ing b mcket
of the lamp is attach ed t o the If.:- in. pipe
HAND· __
W HEU
._~~~
with a bnlSs pin and set of s pace rs. the
la lle l· tnk ing up the diffe r e nce be tween the
s prcad of the brac ke t arms and the ouL<;ide
di nm e t c l· of the pipe. The le ns c lamp o f the
hCildli g ht is ntta che d to the control .H·m
w ith a boll ha v ing a bll s h ing wh ich rides
in the s lot. After t he uni t is assembled. the
bo tto m bearing is tighte ne d s o the re is a
slig ht d rag w he n the spotlight is tu med.
F ina lly, 1.1 s mall hand w heel is added to the
lower e nd of the If-J-in. p ipe to m an ipulate
the lig h t. Wil"ing is d o ne by b ri ngi ng the
w ire dow n th roug h the % - in . p ipe a nd con-
necti ng it thl'ou gh a switc h o n the lig ht
itself 0 1' o n the lig ht pane l of the boat. The
lig ht is g round ed in o rder to co mple t e the
e lec trica l circ ui t.
Keep Your Tobacco Dry
K eep your pipe. t obllCCO. m atc hes a nd
o the r smokin g mate r ia ls d ry in a boat by
puttin g t he m in a fr u it jar suspendt.-d u nder
the deck or scat. The lid of the jar is fas -
te ne d t o t he unders ide o f a sea t. and the
jar is r e m oved by unscr e wing it.
PART 4

65
 8··....
OECK PlA~
-.-1
.,•
,.,• ,
'"
.
'.j"""-
,
".
, ..
o
8" -----10"
, , J
IS~ t"
•
ISH
, I·
•
1000~r --?"r-
7 0
[II OUTWARO PROfilE
LIGHT ENOUGH to carryon il C,\1' Or even
o n yO lU' s hou lde rs. t h is boat w ill enable
you to reach h id eaways that a rc inaccessi - ./
ble wit h heav ie r craft. It is sturdy enough
to pus h t hmugh d ense w eed g rowths ;111d
,
li ght cnou)..!h to navigate the shallowest
wntt!rs, Althullgh only 8 [1. 4 in, long,
Fca thcrwei ght h'1S a capacity of well ove \'
:100 pound s, Ils cons truction of V4-in. wa-
le r p1'00f plywood over li ght pine fra ming:
),!iYCS iI the wcll-4roport ioned lines t hat
i ll'C s hown in Figs, 1 "ond 2.
Fent hc r'\\'eigh t is bu ilt ups id e down o n
an e rec ting frame as s hown in Fig, 8, Con -
struction begins with t he boat fra mes. F ig, \
4. These al'e mad e of ~~I-in. (net) pine 01'
other li g:ht wood thai w ill not split eas ily . .
Fu ll-s ize p'l tle l'ns dl'ilwn on h eavy wrap-
p in g pa pc l' w ill a id in lay ing out the p ieccs
to e>:nc t sizc a nd sel've as a guide fo r as-
semb ling the m a ftcr they are cul. W'l ter-
proof glu e a nd No.8 b l'ass sere"'s arc used
to jo in th e p,u'ls us ind icated in F ig. 3,
T cmporary braces arc installed on Ih e
open fmlncs 3,4 and 5.
The s trongb'lck o f the erecting frmn e,
Fig . 11. is mad c from a 2 x 8 - in. plan k, A
;;; x ; '8 - in. bllttcn may be used to mark
t he 2- in . CLLI'V{.'. No tclws are cut to hold the
boat frames in pOl:;it ion <md the ends ,I re
66
shaped to take a bow and stem knee as
shown in Fig. 10. Almost any type of brac-
ing on the erecting frame will be satisfac-
lory provided it is rigid and does not. inter-
fere with the wOl·k. The framing lumber
should be well-seasoned so it will not warp
and cause the boat to become lopsided. The
perspective view, Fig. 8, shows the entire
assembly in full detail. Note in Fig. 6 that
the haming is built so that the stl·ongback
can be lifted oIT with the boat frame when
the wOl·k is completed in th is position.
When assembling the frames on the strong-
b<lck be sure the uprights, or side mem-
bel·s of the frames. are on opposite sides of
their cmss members, beginn ing amidships
as shown in Fig. 8. The temporary bl·ace
on the No.4 fl·arne is screwed to the erect-
ing fmme as in Fig. 5 to keep it squared
and centered. The other frames are held
in place by toenailing at the sides of the
strong back. Care should be taken to locate
the nails where they can be removed easily
after the sides and bottom are put 011. With
the frames in place, the boat stems, one of
which is detailed in Fig. 9, are temporarily
screwed to the erecting frame as in Fig. 1I.
Both stems shou ld be about 12 in. long to
permit trimming to exact size later.
To install the sheer battens, temporarily
nail them in the notches of the No.4 frame.
Then bend the ends of the battens around
67
 to the sIems and mark so they. will fit
just back of the bevels as indica ted in
Fig. 9. Aftor cutt ing to s ize, install the
ba:tens permanently with screws and
waterproof glue. Fasten l:,em to fra me
No.4 til'st, and then work progress ive-
ly toward the stems, securing bo:h
s ides a lt~ l'llatel.Y. Check Ell the frames
for squareness befo l'e fastening the
sheer battens, Chine battens are in-
!:tnUed in the same way. T o ~ISSU I'e a
watertight hu], screws must be coun-
tersunk and the battens planed flu sh
with the frames. The plywood covCrill~
must be in snug contact with the shee l'
a nd chine battens and bevels of the
stems. To install the sides, bend and

fl .... T MOL['I NG / STROl'-GBACK ~.

-, -.-,' :~
;/(0 Ii ~ ' ~'
~ ,,""NO "AM' -'CS/
~~
. • I
~ 0 d
.'

"'" m" Jl
'fMP ORARY SCREW S I I

fR6,ME .... LIGNED

ST R::>NGB ....
LIFTS Off
f Rf :: TII~O
FR I':ME
WORk
/)("jNF

••
clam),) <i p3nel of plywood around the entire
side of the frame and ~ark it along the
shee.', ch ine and stem. Then I'emove- and
saw outside of the lines to allow for trim,
Colton binding tape, Ih in. wide, is laid in
llIariut! glu"," <1l-'l-Ilit:u to the ballens, stems
and side panels as in Fig. 7. The sides are
nailed temporarily to the f:'ane amidships
and SCl"ewed alternately each way from
this point to :he stems. Care should be tak-
e-n to prevent the binding t!1PP fron shifl.-
ing. After the edges of the side pieces have
been planed flush with lhechine batten, lay
0 :) the bottom panel of plywood and mark
it fer sawing. This is installed in the same
manner as th e s ides. With the bottom fin-
ished. set the keel and fasten with 2-in. No,
SHEER BAnEN
',lo "' )( ,,.. •• :;~Iu/Lt
ERa::TING
FRAME
A NOTC" ~." X 1~"
EReCTING FRAME
10 galvani%ed screws to the frames and
knees. To cover the edge of the bottom p\y-
\\"oorl , 8';: Wf'lI :l~ t.hf> f;C'rp.whe:lds in t.he
sides, install flat, wood moldings at the
chine lines as indicated in Fig. 15. The tem-
poral'Y .sCl·ews in the stenlS are then l 'e -
moved. and the hull, togetr.er w ith the
slt'ongback, lifted off be erecting frame
and placed right side up on saw horses.
The stl"ongback will have to be sawed in
h:llf to e:pl. it.ollt. of t.he hllil. A f:l ise bottom
or floO!' as shown at station 4, Fig. 1S.
should be r:1ade an individual unit so it can
be rem :)\'cd to clean the bilge. Deck belllTl.3,
extendmg from t he cockpit to breasthooks
fitted in the bow and stern, are installed
in the n otches cui in the uppe r members
SHEER
BATTEN
r." SPRUCE
SHEER 8.A.nEN
KNEE
••
 STAINLESS·
STEEL MOLDI NG
1" RUB RAIL

' " RUII RAIL

x ~.. MOt.DlNG

\4" OU1OOOf1:.Pl~
SIDES. aonOM AND DfCK

COAMlNG BAmI'!

STAnoNS 1 ANO 1

~"X lK"1C!B

of the fore and aft frames as indi cated in
Fig. 1'1. C onming batten s a nd filler blocks
an~ t hen added to suppor t the deck and
plywood coaming around the cockp it.
The entire d eck may be Clit from a sing le
pane l of p lywood w ith the coc kpit area
Sa\n~d a li t. or. if too a\\,kward to handl e in
one sh eet. it ca n be made fr om two p ieces
.mel joined at t.he No, 4 frame. Plywuod is
also lI sed for the coaming, wh ich is made
in fou l· secti ons and jOined with a l'cinfOI"C-
ing strip at. frames 3 and 5. A stai nless-stee l
70
••
molding as sh own in Fig. 13 w ilJ protect
t he top ed ge of th e comn in g. To make a
watertight joint wit h t he d eck . lay a quar-
te r-ro und molding in marine g lu e and fit it
as s nugly as possi ble in the comel·. H<'II'd-
wood cutwaters at the bow and stern as in
Fig. 12 and I"Ub rails along the sheer lines
complete the boa t.
For an incons pi cllous fin ish. paint the
boat a cattail gn~e n both inside a nd outside .
Th en foll ow with two coals of spar varnish.
Allow lime between cnat s.
 3-SECTION
ROWBOAT
7it4 ~~~
V\l HEN th e three sections al'e take n
a pnrt ilnd nested. this 12-ft. row boat
occu pi es a space on ly 6% ft. long. a nd by
virtu e of its thin plywood cons truction is
so lighl lhal une man F all easily stow it O il
lop o f hi s ca r. using u s uitab le cradIc (0 hold
it. The boat is designed al ong st;lll<ianl
lin es. ,md construc tion di ffers only in the
usc of :!Ii -in. plywood for sides .mel bo ttom.
In fact, it is bu ilt up as a single- unit row -
boat, and then sawed be twee n t he two dou -
ble bulkhea ds to fo rm the three sections.
It is h ighly advisable to use watc rpt'oof
plywood, if it is ava ilable. If not, the ordi-
na ry g rade can b e sa tisfactori ly water- % -in, pine having g rain at ri gh t angles.
proofed by giving it three or fou l' coals o f Thc st.em is fa st encd to:1 kn ee and kee lson
paint 0 1' s h ellac, ta king care to work it. by means of galvanized carriage bolts, w ith
w e ll into the ex posed edges, If t he wnod h eads countersunk, Nex t make the frames
is not thol'Oughly waterproofed, moisture Nos, 1, 2 and 3, and th e bulkheads, Note
will loosen th e thi n layers of w ood and that there is a fram e on each bulkhead, All
ruin t he boat. In fact , all parts, whe th el' {I'ames are notched fo r c hin es. kee lson and
direct ly e xposed to the wate r ai' n ot. inwale. and f,'a mes Nos, 2 and 3 for the
should be give n two coa ts of pai nt or seat rai l. The bulkh ead s s hould not be
she ll ac be fore assembling them. and at notched , In assembly, the keelson \\'i ll be
least two marc coats afte r assembling, in three sections, Fasten the fram es, bulk-
S CI'ews, also, should be seated in white le;ld. heads, stem and transoms to t he kee lson in
When no t in usc, the boat s hould be given the ir re i<lti ve positions wi t h gal vanized 01'
an application o f paint more freq uenl ly brass SCl'ews, .mel nnil the keelson, w ith
than an nrdinal'y bOilt. ;Issemblecl fl'ames, e tc .. te mporal'ily to n
First build th e s te m, Four wed ge -s haped plank in o rd e r to ho ld il l'i gid \\'hile in-
pieces .He sc rewed to a central sect ion of st<llling the c hine and in walc, Strips shou ld
71
 ,, ,

,
fRAME *1

fAAME1-
I
Sf..,
I'''''''J t == ".
I.. -'-' '-'"'' .- -
SfA'

,
,
'""
6OTTOM

. \ ~
. , ,
. ~ BOW Sfc.rtON ~ ,
I- r
~.
I.,.
, ',' I . ., ..'C ,'
SEC.TION "rHROuGH l\ULKllfADS be nailed across the tops of the
fram es, just below the in wa le
notches, to hold them in posi-
tioh, and removed afte)' the
side boards ,we on. The bulk-
heads, of ljz-in. plywood, should
be located about % in. apart so
" kEH i' t1wt a saw can be in serted for
separating the sections.
Afte r the plywo o d side
boards a re on, turn the boat upsid e down
fot, putting on the bottom. This is cut from a
sing le sheet 01 plywood. The panel is nailed
tempora r ily to the boltom and the outline
marked. It is then removed, sawed, and re-
placed w ith a fmishing nail here ;:!nd thel'C
aft.el" a strip of binding tape has bee n laid
over the joint a nd soaked in white lead.
Seal' in mind that the edge of the side board
and c hine must be smoothed wit.h plane 01'
sandpaper to make a Hush and even joint.
Fasten \vith %-in. brass screws set about
2 in. apart. This will make an absolu te ly
watertight joint. Bulkhead joints should
be made the same way. In making the oar-
lock, a piece of bl'ass tubing is driven into
a hole bored in a block that is fnstened
between side board and inwale. The lube,
of course, should be large enough for t he
shank of the oarlock t.o turn freely , and
shou ld fit tightly in the wood block. The
keel is bolted on after the hull sec tions have
been sawed apart. This is necessary be-
cause of thE" tapered joints of the keel which
lock the sections against an up-and-down
motion. Bolts should be used on ly neaL' the
joints, and then through the keelson. Usc
galvanized carriage bolts with heads coun-
tersunk s lightly in the keel. Elsewhere
use long screws up through keel, keelson
and into crossframes.
72

The scat I'ai ls arc scr\;!wed to the frames
in bow anu stern sec tiuns .• 15 s hown above.
T he bow scal is sc\'e\\'ed down , bu t the
stem s(,,11 is hinged <lnd forms <l lockel' fol'
fi shing t..lckie, lunch , etc ., ou t of the h al s un.
Anchor Chain Helps Diver Climb
Into Boat From Water
Pay careful atten,ion 10 ,eelianal filli n9 ' in th. dia-
9ram' above. Keel n elia", and bulkh ead lalcnn .... u$l
be po,itjoned and aue .... b le d with ut .... o,' a ccuracy
The rowing sent is re movable, which is
necessar y for n cst.ing the bow ~lIl d stern
sec t ions . A fal se bo ltom shou ld be made
for the am ids hips sec tion to provid e d ry
footing and p rotect the bo ttom of the bont.
Whcn using ;1 rowboat as a diving plat.-
fo rl11 , difficulty in ge tting into the b oat.
from the watcr can be O VC 1'COIlle by u sing
the anchor chain as a step , The step can
be made any height d esir ed by using a
screw hook to fa s ten it as indicated . A
le ngth o f gard en hose slipped over the
chai n will provide a cushion for the feet.
Bicycle Tire Serves as Boat Guard
Prevent d amage
to th e b ow of a
CORD
s mall boat in sh a l-
low water by Illilk -
ing a guard of a
I-ft. length of bi -
cyc le lire. Att,l(;h
c;) rds to each end
,md faslen to!;crCW
eyes mounted U ll
the boa t d~ck,
73
 11 1/2-Ft. PLYWOOD

M O LD FRAME No. 2

• •
• •
•
• •

2" X IO" X
NOTC HES, 'l;'.u X 2"

~:
74
ROWBOAT e~ (JH,
IF YOU CAN use a suw, hammer and
plane, you can easily mastcr t he con-
struction of this simple ca r-top rowboat.
The re areJl~ tricky p lanks to fit and no dif-
ficult rab11"et"to cut in the stem. Not count-
ing the transom, only two mold frames :'ll'C
req uired, Fig. 1, and as tl\c m olds are only
tempo l'''!"Y, their assembly i s not too impol'·
tant olher than seeing lhat they are put to-
gether sql1arely. T o ~lssu re this, make a full-
size p<lper patteI'll of each mold and assem -
ble t he pieces dh'celly on the p;1tterns. The
transom is % -in. ply wood . A n otched fnunc
is g lued and screwed pe rmanently to the
insi de face of the transom. '
Next, the transom, mo lds and stem arc
{",steneel to a stl'Ongb.lck o r building board.
eM
This is cut from a plank , as indicated, and is
supported in the manner shown in Fig, 2,
Th e stem is clamped to the strong back as in
F ig. 3 and (he trallsom is clamped to two
scrap boards which ,H'C clamped at an .angle
(0 the opposite end of the strongb.aek, Fig,
] 1. The molds m'e leveled latendly and
braced at right angles to the stt·ongback.
Fig. 5 gives a gene ral idea of how the
k eelson , chines and sheer b attens are fitted.
These parts simply resl in the notches of
the molds anJ nrc f,lstcned on ly to thc stcm
and transom. Th e kee lson and chines arc
fastened to thc stcm as in Fig. 6, using
l :v.l -in . No . 8 flat-head br<lSS screws. One
sc rew is u sed to rasten each aft e nd of the
chines and shee r battens to the t!';.msom.
75
 PlA NE D OFF

o CHINE AND SIDE fAlRED

flUSH WITH fRAME BOTTOM

The framewo rk is now rcady

to be covered with marine ply·
wood. Apply the sides 6rst by
clumping the plywood tempo-
rarily in place and marking it a
little oversize for sawing. To
make a water'tight. joint ;:, long
the chine, c0at it with marine
g lue and lay muslin tape in the
g lu e. Then apply a second cual
\0 the tape and att.<lch the ply-
wood wit.h I-in. No. 8 fla t -
head screws, spaced 2 in.
apart. When dry, p lane orr the
chine and plywood flush with
the bottom of the molds as in
Fig. 4. For the suke of economy.
the plywood bottom Ciln be ap-
plied in two 01' morc pieces,
Fig. 12. using copper clinch
nails along a cleat-backed joint.
The exposed edges of the ply-
wood at the s tem a re {aired into
the curve of th e stem, then
('oated with madne glue and
..;ove,·ed with a strip of half·
76
 MATERIAL LIST
Lumbo. :
Wol . rp.ool plywood
1 pc. '4 ~ d in . x 10 fl ._ 60110m
1 pc . ,/. " "8 in . " 12 h.-Side.
I pc. 14 " 36 JI 36 in.- Oe<:k
1 pc. ~ x 18 JI "8 in.- Tronwm
Sp ru ce. fir. cyp .. .. 0' yellow p ine
I pc. ~~ JI 6 " 30 in. - OK k beem
I p~. ~~ JI 3 In. JI 10 1t._ Kltel.on
I pc . 3.!.r. " 1 in . " 10 fl . - Keol
2 pn . 3.10 " 13.10 in . x 12 h .-C hine>
2 pc • . V2" I V1 in. " 12 h .-Sh.... ' boH .. " .
1 p~ . 3/4 " 3 in . x 6 11 ._ T.on . om frome
2 pn. 34 " 3V. in. x 8 ft.- Side suppo".
2 pos. 3/. " H'u in. " 10 h ._ Bollom rib .
2 pc.. 3.10 " 1 in . " 12 h. - Mol ding
Re dwood •• p.uco
I pt. 3.~ " 1<1 " .8 'n._ bot .eol
I Il~ . ~io " 12 " "8 in. - f otwo.d ... 01
Oo k.u." or y .. llow pine
1 pt . 2 " 8 " 30 ;n. - SI " m
I pc. Vl " 1 " 2. ;n.-S,em molding
I p~ . I " 10" 18 ;n ._ T.onlom kn" ••
I pc. H~ " 5~~ in . " 10 II .-Building b"",d
2 pt • • 3.~ " 33";' in . " 8 h ._S<:to p •• oe k ftomeo
Ho.d wu fo:
• g.o.. \ . in . N o . 8 Ilol · """d b.o. . .cr .. w s
I g fO.. I '. ~ .i n . N o . 8 !!o. · .... od .e t .. w.

i~
3 doE. P /. · in. No.8 Ila, · heod .«"w,
I lb. I Ii.. . ;n . gul ¥oniz .. d . hi ng l.. nail,
1 1" . oudoe k.
3 b.,, » lilling " on·dl ...
1 mooling oy .. bo lt

---
'/1 p l . ",ofino 0 ' p .... "ol .....in glue
10;Y'
B~AM ~
Mu.l in
Poin t on "o.ni.h· OECK

round mo lding to meet the keel.

Now, li fl the b oat from th e
sll'ongback. but befo\'e \'emoving
the molds. p l;Il': c a te mporary cross
brace between the sheer ba tt e ns
to maintain s hape until the .!ic;llS
arc insl;dlcd. Comple te t he d eck
as shuw n in Fig . 9, fi tt ing a deck
beam. Fi g . 10.28 in. fr om the stem .
Fi ve s uppo rt:. .wc fitted to eHch
si d e uf th e boal on the inside a t
poi nts indicated in Fig. 8. T hese
are notched to fli over the chines
.mel sh eer bilttens as s hown in the
sectiQmli "iew , Fi g. 7. This stcp is
followed by insta llin g the r ibs
whic h arc notched to stradd le the
s id e SUP POI·ts and s imply bult
agClinst the kee lson and chines.
Copper or other rust-r esistant
na ils a re used to fast en the dbs to
the plyw ood, th e nai l s b e in g
clinch ed on the insid e. Complete
the boat by adding the transom
knees, scat I'isel's, seats, keel and
the hfllf-round s heer molding.
Use a copper bottom paipt on

: ··1~
the b ottom of the boat and coat the
rest of the wnod ubove ihe water
lin e wi t h a lead-nod-oil p r imer
pain t. The n fin is h \\~ith two fu U-
bodied coa ts of d eck ename l. A :• 1 I
moo r ing eyebolt and three brass :J:, " ~ .!r INSIDE
sash li fts screwed to ih e top edge
of the tr:m som provide convenient , CLEAT JI
" : ~MOl OING
hooks for lashing the boat secu rely , ., li l
wit h \'Ope to the cal' bumpers. ~

77

its Jow ends
W ITH
and £1 nt b ottom.
which extends well up
into bow and ste rn. this
I6-ft. Canadian - type
canoe is wcll-ad::lpted
t o th e n ee ds o f the
sportsman. It features
stead iness on the water and ease of pad-
dling". Th e craft is lit t.le affect.ed by C l'OSS
w inds on account of its wide beam, which
is 33 in., amidships.
C ons truct io n begin s w ith a tempo r .. r y
fra me\\'ork consisting of a set of molds nnd
a back bone. to w h ich the molds a rc fa s-
tened. P a per patt cms arc made from t he
squ ared drawings. Figs. 1 and 2. to trace
the o u tline o f the molds on the s toc k . E ach
m old is made in two halves. fastened to-
ge the r tempora rily with cleats. As both
en ds of the canoe a re iden tical, Iwo mo lds
of each s ize , with the exception of the cen-
te r one, aJ'e ]'equi rcd. T he backbone is a
p iece of :\\,.in . stock 5 1/., in, w ide and ] 4 ft.
(j in. long on t he upper edge and ]4 ft. 4 %
in. on the lowel' edge. S ee Figs . 3 and 7.
The k eelson is <l p iece of clem'. stl'a ight-
gl';.!ined ash or ';ak. cut as s hown in Fig . 7,
The stems ,Ire bui lt up from r egula l' stock
as in F ig. 6. T he gnlin should run neady at
right angles as in Fi g. 7. and casein g lue and
do wels s hould be used in the joint.
Assem bly is s tarted by locating a nd !Hlil-
ing the mo lds in p osition along the back-
78
NOTCH
' OR
KEH'iOH
bone, as in Figs. 3 unci 7. Th e fl 'ame is then
turn ed ove r and the keelson nailed tem-
po ra rily to each o f th e molds. a fter which
the stem pieces arC' SCI'ewed b etween the
dents a t the e nds of th e backbone. Fig, 7.
The e nds of the k eelson nrc bent d own to
meet the stem pieces. whel'e Lhey are fas-
tened pe rmane ntly wit h b rass scrc'.... s and
bo lts as indicated. The gu nwales running
from s tem to s tem are made of s traight-
grained ash. They sh ou ld be w rapped with
rags and soaked with hot water until t hey
become pliable. The cllds me beveled and
fm;tened perma nently w t he s tem ' pieces
w ith nail s. The in stallation of the d eck s,
F igs. 5 a nd 6, greatly strcn gthens th e frame-
work and aids in dl'awing th e gunwa les to
s hape, The decks are hlstened with bra ss
screws as in Fig. 4. Now. four ribbands.
equa lly spaced illld reaching from s tem to
s tem, are screwed to th e m olds on each
side of the k eelson as :;;h own in Figs. 8 a nd 9,
Steaming. Fig. 13. is necessary to make
the r ibs sufficicntly pli able to take the
bends. Each rib s hou ld be long enough to
reach from g unwale to gunwa le over the
~bband'.
@
Begin at the eente,'
;mel inst<lll each rib .IS -shown in Fig. 14,
drawing i t into position with C-clumps and
nailing at the keelson and gunwales, start-
ing at the center of the cunoe and working
toward the ends. Where B rib comes over a
mold, it is simply spaced out and omitted
temporarily, Fig. 15.
When the ribs are all in place, the rib-
bands are taken off, making the job ready
fOl' the Vs-in. cedar planking. If your band-
saw is equipped with a ripping fence you
will be able to save
money on the ribs
and planking by
I' csBwing them
YOlil'seli, Fig. 10.
The planks arc
soaked for several
hours. then the
first full-length
plank is laid with
the edge parallel
with the center
line of the keelson , (i)
F' i g. 11, u sin g KEELSON,
clamps to draw it 14'- Z' LONG
into place. Copper
nails al'e used for fastening the planking to Fig. 12. Fig. 11 shows the arrangeme nt of
the I'ibs and :.;1 nails must be cltnched the planking.
across the grain on the inside of the ribs, To remove the backbone, take out the
79
 cleats and saw it through at the center. Tnkc
out all but t he No . 3 molds. Bolt the maple
thwarts, Figs. 5 and 16, to the undel·side of the
gunwales to prevent the hull from springing
out of shape. The seat frames, Figs. 5 and 18,
a lso may be fitted <1t this time. The rear
stretchers are bolt ed directly to the gunwales
but the two forward are 10\",·cl·ed 3 ilL' Y
m eans of hardwood spacers as in Fig. 18.
For canva sing you need two pieces of -oz;.
canvas, long enough to reach from s tem t.o
s tem with abo'u t a foot to spare, and w iele
enough to r eflch [!'Om the gunwale to the
k eel \vith a llowance for a lap. Start by spread-
ing the canvas over half of the cance, tackin g
temporarily neal· the cen ter of the gunw;1!e.
Pull the covel'lng tightly around the bilge
and place a few tacks along the keel, ncar the
center. Wet the canvas and pull it len gthwise
over the stems, and tack. As it dries, th e fab!'ic
will tighten and take the shape of t he hu ll.
When dry, pull out the tacks a lone end and
fit the canvas neatly <l!'Ouncl the stem , from
the point of the keel to the gunwale, lapping
1 in . over t h e stem . Fasten with :V,l-in. copper
lacks. spaced 1 in. apart. Then remove a ll oth-
er temporary tacks and 1'011 the canvas back
off the canoe.
Beginning a t t.he tacked end, apply a coat of
waterproof canvas cement to ' a section of the
planking along the keel. Do not covel' a large
area as the cement dries quickly. Unroll the
canvas over the cem en ted area, pull tightly
lengthwise and fast e n the loose end temporar-
ily while tacks are placed closely a long t.he
gunwale and keel of the cemented portion . As
you tack be SU1'e that the clot.h lies Hat with-
ou t any wrinkles. Then squeegee the canvas
with the palm of t.he hand to make sure that
it is in contact with the cemcnt at all points.
Now, trim the canvas a long the gunwales and
fa sten with copper tacks, spaced about 1,2 in .
A llow a few days for dryin g, then app ly a
coat of C<111Vas cement.. When dry. sand

80
smooth ilnd finish with
one cont of deck paint
and 0 11 (: of £l ilt color
after w h ich it is il gain
s.mded and vlln1 ished,
Appl y the gUIl\\'ille
mo ld ing. F igs. 17 and
19, w ith roundhead
brass Bails, and finish
the canoe inside <lnd
oul with two conls of
s pa r vill'n igh, Fina ll,v
t he keel is varnished

" ~"
2;( -BS--\\\
lEi X!.

"

sepm'ate ly a nd scrcwed in phlce as

in Fig. 19. Fini sh up with th e V4-in .
~1~:::""~~~
h a]f-]'Ound copper bang plates. t<H.L.
I n vamis hing the inside of the WftlTE
Cilnoe. ca re should be taken to pre-
vent the vilmish from " piling up "
in th e co rne rs between the l~ibs
and planking:, Check up' Oil these
point s and spread out such spots
with a bru s h before the varnis h
beg: ins to dry,
Y ou can keep your canoe in good
condition fOl' yea rs by proper at-
ten tion to t he hull w h e never the
canvas covering must be replaced . R emove the s tem an~ ecl
wit h t he o ld ca nvas. and check the pl anki ng c;uefully for dlV'rot.
Re plnce any plank or rib thai sh ows e vide nce of 1·0t. A lso replnce
loose na ils or Screws with longer ones or ones of larger diameter.
Fin:dly, plane and sandpape r t he hu ll to restore a perfectly
smooth. curved Sll rfilce . Then put o n th e new canvas and fi ni sh
as YOli did the first covering.
81
 I F YOU want a lightwe ight u tility boat with a nice
turn of speed and e;:ISY handling, build "Banta,"
A boat like this has a lot to recommend it-simple,
inexpensive con:';11'uclion , a one-man weight of less
than 150 lbs ., practically leakproof- she's a smooth,
easy sailer on any man's river. Good for rough
water, too. The V-bottom of Bania make~ her
a much bclier rough-waleI' boal than conventiona l
flat-b ottom plywood construction, She'll !'ide 'em!
Making the frames: Make the frames first, using
oak, elm, pine or mahoga ny . Draw each fram e care-

" Bonto"
leng,h .•.... ... , 12'
Bco m 45 "
Ocpth omid.hip . . 19 "
Weight ...••. 150 lb •.
Po '<enger. .... . ....• 3
Motor. ... .... 2 . 10 HP.
Speed . ,., .8·25 M. P.H.

8EvEtoiNG Cl4tNES

82
 fully on a piece of bu ilding paper and make
the assembly over this after cutting the parts
to shape on the bandsaw. The side frames are
curved out at the bottom to preduce a good
landing on the bottom frames. An ( ptiona l
method of construction is to butt the side and
bottom fram es together and tie them with %-
in. plywood gussets on either side. The tran-
som is bandsawecl from 34-in. mal'ine plywood
to the dimens:ons given . It is cleated at the
edges and bottom with the frame stock. The
transom is raked 0 deg., which amounts to 2%
in. in the height given .
.. ;:. --.......'
Frame assemb ly: Banta is built upside down ,~

';--..... "1'6
on a building platform , as shown in the draw-
ing. On the surface of the platfOl'm, run in a l-:4~--'-L~.
pencil centerline and mark the station lines.
C lcats fastened parallel to the station lines as 15~
shown will provide a support and locate each
of !.he main frames . The keel is now fastened
to the frames and tl';msom, checking carefully
to maintain each frame true and square w ith
the bu ilding platfol·m. The stem is a triangul ar
"
piece of white oak, mounted at the extreme nose ,
of the building p latform at an angle of 67 deg.
ALL 80T ,.OM
\
11 is a good idea to make a full-size drawing of I'RAM(S
the assembly at the stem since this will show )/4. ''%
exact lengths, angles, etc. As .:an be seen in
the stem detail and section drawings. the for~ ER. AME N2 ?,
ward end of the keel fastens to a nose b lock,
the nose block being held to the stem by a knee.
The chines go on easily, the asscmbly 'at the
stem being to eithe)' side of the nose block. All
joints are screw-fastened. The clllTiage-bolt
fastenings at the stem al'e not put in until the
boat is complete. It will be noted in the draw-
ing that the fonv<ll'd ends of chines and keel
are saw-kerfed. This makes bending easier and ., FRAME tiH

!9'~16
a lso helps to maintain a full curve. The kel·fs
can be cut on the bandsaw, lfs in . deep and 1 in. 11° SEVEL
lIS"
apaJ't for the chines, and %: in. deep x 1 % in.
apart on the keel. All frames must be beveled "
to carry out a smooth Hne, .and the keel and
chines are planed down to come flush with the
j
frame s!1ape. The sheer batten goes on without
much trouble, being let into the stem. The
TRAN SOM
#"
whole fl'amc flssembiy should be made dry and , "
is knocked down and reassembled with cold
resin glue after fitting.
P la nk ing: Planking for Banta is 1/4_in. fil' ply~
!l°SE.VEV· ~II>' Ih.\

"" " ~'\

, ..~16¥.--..l
~"-1 '~"
'~'6
wood of the waterproof, resin-bonded type.
T wo standard 4 x 12-ft. sheets are required . One .;:-.. "
)II'"r. .
sheet will make the two side planks, whUe the Il 'y,.
other sheet will cut the two bottom planks and
the deck. The side planks are applied first. Fit-
ting is quite simple since the half sheet of ply-
!!!.tl ~t"l'" .....
,~
19}"
lIs.:
I '"
1,;0;,
wood can be bent to the frames and held with
clamps while the shapc is being marked with a N!! ).(!,
';"
pencil. The p lanks are cu t off square at the ~e·''1" . . .
stem to provide a flat of about % in . on which
to land the outer stem piece. The bottom
.. - 19}16 - - 1
--y~~
19V"t'%.
1<12 "1 ' S "
83
 --
planks arc butted together at the keel anq
extend over the side planks. All fitting
should be done dry. after which the pel'ma-
nent as~emb l :.' can be ml:'.de WiOl cold resi n
g lu e. The outer keel is V-cut on a cll'cular
saw to fit the angle of the bottom planking.
F loor and deck: The fitting of floor
boards is quite simple and clearly shown
in the drawings. The deck is VI-in. marine
plywood bent to a crown of "bout 2 in. The
main deck beam is spanned across fram e
No. 1. Thel'e is an intermediate deck b eam
about 15 in, forwa rd of th is, and a breast-
hook at the exil'eme forward position be-
hind the stem. Notches are cut on the
inner edge ,of No, 2 and No. 3 side frames
to take the inwaJes. At frame No.1 the
inwale is beveled slightly and fastened di-
rect ly to the sheer batten, At the transom
the inwales are let into wooden knees. Seats
arc spanned across th e hull and bult against
the planking. Each seat is supported with
" riser at the center and end ri sers extend-
ing down to the chines at cither end.
Fi nishing: A first coat of special plywood
sealer and primer should be applied. This
will prevent hai rlin e checking and the
showing of the ridges of the grain struc -
ture, which fir has a tendency to do even
under two or three coats of p<1int . The hull
may then be finis h ed in clear va rnish to re-
tain the natul'al grain, or given thin coats
of enamel fmish in the color desired. Sand
each coat lightly.
"
MATERIAL LIST
3 pieces O'tk. elm, mnho!;uay or whIte pIlle, ~~ x.
8 In. x 8 ft.- for frames
pIece walerlJroo f fir or mahogany marine ply-
WOOd. ~ . x 17 x 39 In. - for transom ,
piece oak, p ille, ~pruce or yellow pine, ~~ x 1',2
In. x II ft.- tor Inner keel
piece oak or yellow pine. ~~ x : 'B In. x II ft.-
for outer keel
2 pieces pine, oak or m ahognll ~·. ~B It 1 III. X 12 tt.
- for chines
2 pieces oak 0, 'l\aho~any , % x I In . x 12 ft.-
tor sheer batten~
I piece oak, % x 5 x 6 In. - tor lIose block
I piece ollk. 1 \" x 5 x 8 In.- for stem knee
2 pieces wa terproof tlr or mahoga ny mllrlne Vly·
WOO(1. \~ In. x 4 x 12 fe-for planklnl{
piece wf!terproof fir or mahOl{any marine ply_
WOOd- for deck . This Item wlll be cut from
p!lInklng stock on sheet lIsed for bottom
plankln!;
piece white pine or spruce, ~~ x 8 In. x 4 n.
- for deck beams
pIece white oak or yellow pine, I I. ~ x 5 x 8 In.
-tor brcasthock
2 p:eees oak, yellow pIlle or mahogany. % x
I \4 In. x 9 tt .- tor Inwales
I piece oak or yellow 1)llIe, 1% x 2 x 18 In.-for
IlIlIer stem
piece oak or ~'ellow pine, ~:. x 2 x 18 In.-tor
outer stem
4 pieces white pille. e~' press or redwood, \~ x 5
In. x !) ft.- for floor bonrds
piece whIte pine or mnhogany, % x 12 In. x 8
tt.- for sents
llleee white pine. ~ :. x 8 III . X 4 tt.- to r seat
s\\pports
2 pieces fir plywood, ~l, x 5 x 12 In.- for motor
pnds. Thill Item cnn be cut from planking
s\,Oek
pleee yellow pine or white oak, I \:, x 8 x 8 In .
- for trallsom knees
2 pieces yellow pine or white pIne. 1 In. hal!
rollnd x 12 ft.- for sheer molding
 PART 5

" ~eftIuft "- -

a 14-ft.
Sailing
..
I
I . Dinghy

as
 ,-

I
:;
~
---+--"'--

rr H1S fleet 14-ft. boaL combines strength

with light weight, and is easily ma -
neuve red. It carries 140 sq. ft. of canvas
and weighs a bout 350 Ibs.
A table of offsets, Fig. 1, enables you
to layout exact patterns for temporary
fmme s, on which the boat is b uilt. The
patterns fol' the frames are d rawn on
h eavy paper ruled ofT in 1 or 2-in. sq uares
as in Fig. 9. Dimensions in the table of
offsets are from the centerline and base
li ne to the outside of th e planked boat.
Therefore the cu r ves for th e frames should
be drawn :}8 in . inside of the curves ob-
tained from the table of offsets, as the
planking used on this boat is 18 in. thick.
Fig, 9 shows how the patterns fo r the
frames arc dnlwll. but the cu r ves s hould
not be dt'awn {!'Om these sketches, as they
will not give the accu rate resul ts that. you
w in get by laying t hem o ut from the table
of offsets. From F igs. 1, 2 and 3, you will b e
llble to loca te the points along which th e
,;u r ves are drawn .
After cutting t.he frames from wide
pieces of l-in. soft pine, assemble them
86
on a s tmngb;n:k ,I S in Figs. 6 ,md 7.
Thi s is H ;'! · in . plank ( a bo ut 1% in.
dressed). n ne edg\! of which is cuI lu
the curvature uf the keeL Th e frnn l
end o f the strongback is cut aw,l)' tn ZEPHYR
receive the stem knee. a nd t he tran s o m bnglh over 011 14 ft. 4 in.
knee fi ls be tween \ \\'0 pi eces a l th e t . nglh 01 woler line 13 ft. 8 in .
a h er e nd . A board which rllns be luw Seom 5 ft . 2 in ,
the s tro ngback is notched for Ihe! Droft 7 in.
s tem. Be vel th e edges of the framc$ \o freeboord ford 2 h . 0 in.
Freeboard oft 1 h . 4;11.
("('n fo rm w it h the ClU'va ture of the hull,
TIl(? beve l is d ete rmin ed by testing with a s trai ght
baUc n a bout ~2 in, thick, In building any boat
the fram es mllst be so beve led or [a ired nIT- that
i s, phmed tn a nahll'al CUI've , If one f r (l m e h,ls a
hump lSO tha t Ih e batten does not touch the ,.lei·
join ing f)"ltlles, fail' the ofTe nclin g me mbe )' down ,
Each p,li)' (If fram E'lS is nutc hed for the I/Z b y
4· in, k eelson, At th e forward e nds. w he t'e the
planks wi ll have a pronoun ced bend. it Illay be
n ecess,u'v to not ch o r nat ten Ihe frame (or a
phmk or' two. bu t this s hould be- done a fte'r th e
garbom'd (phlllk ne xt to the kee l) and adj oi ning
pl'Hlk have been la id out.
Th e s tcm, F ig:. 8, is b<lI1dsa\\'cd frolll ;'!· in . ina·
h ogany 0 1· wh ite oak, a nd is assembled w ith the

B7
 SHM ,S((T'O MA1 A'A

kll l:c. Fit the joint between s te m and knee

lig htly. using <I ciflmp as in Fig. 5. Th e n
dl'ill a :~s -in . hole for;1 s topwater. or white-
pill e dowel. which will s w e ll with mois ture
and make a watertight joint. Also apply
Illarine glu e to the co ntactil)g s urfaces. The
rabbe t for the planking is marked out but
J,ot test ed unti l the s te m is un the asse m-
'hling fram e . Then a s tic k is placed against
frame No. 1 and intn notch es along the line
of the J'abbet to be s ure the eunecl angle i<;;
l1chieved. When severa l of these notches
about 4-in. apmt arc cut and tested with
the fld , 01' stick , the remainder of the rab-
bet may be c hiseled {jUt. The planks should
li e perfectly fl at again st th e s tem whel'e
t hey fit into the rabbe t as illus trated in the
upper detail of Fig . 8.
The trans olll is b,lIld saw cd f!'OIn 1I,1-I -i n .
w hile pin e. En ough s tock sh ould be left to
i1 l1ow for the bevel edges. Fig . 13 shows
how transom alld s tem .Ire assembled to
the kee l and keelson. Marine glue or white
lead should be applied to contacting SUI'-

88
 "
0) G.~~"D
NA l'iln l 10
£H H< (}S ALOriC, 51(11
T~L LI" 11 or H~ ...... l l,1'<AL
Bt..;!)

f<lces. Th e keelson is no1c hed into

th e tl'nn som . A SC \'CW th roug h the
for ward e nd of the s lt'On gback
te mpo raril y s ecures the s te m knee to the
frame while fitt ing and asse mblin g.
The ce nte rboard s lot is c ut be twee n sta-
tions 3 and 5, Fig. 19. It is w idel' in t he
middle th,Ul at the e nds. This prevents the
s tee l cent e rboard fmlll be ing p inched \vh cll
th e wood s w ells. Fur 'l111al.c lll' sailors, a
=}~ -in. ce nte rboal'd is advised, as the e xll'a
weight p rov ides mure ball ast than one
:~ . : in . thick. The ce nte rbo:l rd s lot and we ll
arc varied accOI'ding ly. Dim e ns ions g ive n
he l'c n re intended fol' a ;ll.:- in . cen t erboanl.
but if yo u c ha nge to il :!~ -in . thic kness be
s lire to increase the s pace In accommodate
it C"1!t in . wider s l(,t than given in the
d ra w ings ).
Sc re ws t hrough k eelson to keel Hrc
placed on e Hch s ide o f t.he s lot. Else w h e re
t he screws ntn along the cen tel"line of th e
kee l. These SC I'CWS should be spaced so
th ey wi ll not in te rfe re w it h othe r sc rc ws
to b e inst i.llled th l"Ough th e ribs afte r the
e nt ire hull is plan ke<1 and has been re -
moved from the [OI·m. The ribs are to be
s paced 6 in . on ce nte rs. beginnin g Ht the
b \l\.t o m of the transom .
Now for planking. Th e garboard. 0 1"
phlllk ;:dongside the kee l comes firs t. The
s hape of this can be la id out w it h a s piling
bOil rd. as in Figs. II ilnd 12. Bring the
p lank as filr fOI"\\'arcl on the s tem knee as lltANS OM
poss ible without twi s t ing 0 1" s tl"<lin ing un -
duly. A mista ke many arna le ut·s make is in
no l d o in g thi s, with the resul t that all fol- '@ WI'!' M'tll PIIOJlC,flN6 tOGtS
, .. .....vt
8ttN PlANtO orr
lowing planks must aSS llm c a I}1"OnOunced
c urvc. Wh en t he pla nk is fitt ed so that it
lies s n ugly a gain st k ee l .md in the s te m
89

rabbe t, re m o ve and apply m i.l r ine g lue,
Till s IS applied a long kee lson, kee l Hnd s te m
l'i..bbe l. and then t he plank is drawn d own
\\' ith :l~l -in, No, 6 bronze wood sc rews,
he ad s counten;unk jus t e nough to putty
OVCI ' late r. Ins tall one gal'board, th e n the
{llher, nnd proceed ill this manne r throug h
t he ent ire planking job . If pl<t nk s Bl 'C il ll
screwed down on o ne side be fore begin-
n i n ~ the ot hc r. it imposes a st rai n which
mi ~ h t p ull the hull o ut of s hape.
Wilh j..!n rb<li.u·ds ins ta lled . sp ile fOJ' acl -
Jui n in:J pl :mks. They are lapped % in .,
Fi g. 14. The e d ge o f t he garboard is bev-
e led where the s u cceed ing plank o verlaps
il. Mark the garbo <lrd w here the n ext
pl:m k s hould come, App ly mal'ine g lue and
drill holes 2 in , api.lI't fO I' coppe l' clou t nails,
w h ich s hould be a s nug fi t The ends are
pl aced on an b'on bar and bent back into
thc wood . A midships, the curve of the
fram es is not so pronounced and th e g <ll'-
b O<1l'd lie s flnt 0 11 the k eelson , Neal' the
5t0 11\, ho\\,e \·e l'. the kee lson as we ll as kee l
IS be ve le d along: the rabb e t. becom ing more
p rollolillced neal' the nl bbet in the s te m .
A:-. the p l;. nks ;I pproach t he transom ;mel
s te lll. the ovedap gmd ually disappears in-
to n heve led butt jo int as s hown in Fi~ s, 15
and IG, Some build ers Ratten the l'oulHled
profil e' of the t ransom to take carc of t.he
(Iat plnnk ends, but a nice ly l'Ounded e lTe cl.
C'lIl be achieved on this hull si mply by
tr imming n ut the unde rsid e o f th e plank
~nd s li g htly conc:1\'e. Thi s pe rmits the
plank to fit mo re close ly to the edge o f the
t r ansom, nnd with \'cry s light b e nding w ill
follow the cu rve of the killeI'. Tilkc plent y
of time and be <lCC UI'ate as the wi.llt::r tighl
qualit ies of <l hu ll d epend u!)on thi s \\·I,u·k.
N o te the ple'lsing. gentle cu rve of the
s heCI' st l'ake h o m Fig. 18. In drill ing the
hr les fo r t he- clo ut nails 2 in . ap'l1'1 <IS in
F ig. 17, leavc them out evel'Y 6 in, fOl' l'ib
90
rivets , The completed hull , Figs, 4 and 10,
may now be lift e d ofT the form. The inside
is painted be fore ins talli ng the ribs.
Ribs and Beams
With the h u ll re moved fl·om the assem-
bling fOl'm and t he inside o f the boat com-
p letely painted . you 'In.! r Ci.I<iy to bend to
s hape and ins tall the o:lk ribs. Block lip
t he hull on a pail' of Si.IW horses and nail two
0 1' thl'ee tempOI'al'Y thwarts or cleats across
the gunwa les, a s in Figs. 20 Hnd 21. Small
finis h ing nails dri ven J}nr\ way into th e
s heet' sll'a kes w ill be s uflicie nt to ho ld
t hese. as th e r ibs. when ins talle d , ex ert
lill ie out w<t rd PI'('SSlirc.
Befo re the r ibs C<tll be bent. thev mus t
be s teamed fOR· abuu t 20 m in, This 'can be
done in a long. narrow t.mk, 01' in an il'o n
pipe, capped at the lower end and nearly
rull of wate r. The pipe is s uppo rted at an
<1ngle, wi th the lo\\'er e nd I·csting in a firc
pi t dug in the g ro und, The ~ tI x '18 -in. oak
ribs, whc n thoroug h ly steamed. w ill bc-
come fl e xib le. In :-:cl ccting t he stock fOI'
th ese, see l hat the grain nins st l·aight.
The pl'Oced Ul·c for fillin g each rib is
MATERIAL LIST
All d imeJlsions IICI - (/,,(', 1101 illd lldc siock
Jor temporar y jrame3 an d SlrOll9back
1 piece 2 x 8 in. x 4 ft.- ma hogany or oak
fo r s tem
piece 1,2 x 4 in. x 14 h .-pi n\.' 01' oak for
keelson
pIece ~ ~I x 2 in. x 14 f( .-oa k for keel
piece I I!! x 17 in. x 4 h .-white pine for
transom
p ic(.'e 1tAl x 14 in. x 4 ft .- white pine fo r
C-boa l'd box
16 pieces % x 7 in . x 16 ft .-" e r lical grnin
spruce for planking
2 pieces :;8 x 10 in . x Hi ft.- vertical grain
spruce fol' plank in:.! (s l1('(, I' strakl's)
27 pieces % x ~" in , x !:I ft.-oak for ben t
frames
I piece ~8 x 12 in. x 18 ft.- pine for deck
beams
2 pieces 1/.1 x 48 in . x 8 ft .- w:lterp l'oof ply_
wood for deek
2 pieces l V., in . x 16 ft . hnlf-round- m<lhog-
any for rub rai ls
1 piece I V4 in . x 4 ft. hnlf-round- mahog-
any fol' transom molding
1 piece ~11 x 10 ill. x 5 ~1l ft.- pi ne for scat
1 piece If.: x 4 in. x 16 fl.- mahogany fO l'
coaming
1 piece 3 x 3 in. x 28 ft ,-s pnlce ror mast
I piece No, 10, 6 x ]5 ft ,-crlll\" aS for deck
11 pieces ~8 x 2 1~~ in . x 8 ft ,- white pine or
spruce for floor boards
1 piece 3/ 16 to ~~ x 18 x 50 in, boiler plate.
galvanized fol' cented >oard (sec text for
L~ickness of ccnterboa rd )
Bronze or galvani zcd ;wrd ware. screws.
marinc glue, cHnd le wi<.:king, paint, putty,
etc.
shown in Fig. 20 . Step
No.1 cOllsists of b ending
the rib and fa s tening it
to the keelson \\'ith one
galva nized nail. The sec-
ond step is to ri vet thc garboa rd
planks and keelson to the rib.
Third. a copper na il is driven
thl'Ough planks and into the db
'lbout midway between the
keelson iJnd the sh eer strake, on
each si de , ho lding a scrap block
agidnst the rib on the inside to
pl"Ovidc a !'io lid backing which prevents
splintcring the rib when the n<'lil comes
through. Hu les for the nails already have
been dri lled in the planks as explained
pl·ev io usly . The fou r t h step is to drive the
remaining nails in the rib, one throu gh the
lap of each ph:mk . Step No.5 is clinching
the nai ls. This is done by placin g a burr or
washer over the protruding c nd of each
nail. holding 11 weight against the head and
hammering the nail point down nat fl S indicated in the
circu l,H' in set of Fig. 20.
The p llln view of the boat, Fig. 23. shows the spacing of
til{' ribs. Note lImt they are spaced 6 in ., center to cen-
te r. beg inning at the i.nside edge of the transom . The
four ribs along: the s tem and knee, however, are di-
vided into p<lirs. the lowe]' ends being hutted against the
s tem ilnd knee. Eight. ribs amidships. over the center-
board s lot. arc riveted to th ~ ket! lson . lik e the ot hers, and
\;:ltel' Cllt away fol' the centel·board s lot. Th ere s hould b e
at least 11 % -in . SPace between the ends of the cutoff
ribs and the edge of the centerboard s lot. to later admit
the centerboard t r unk . In thi s plan. the mast step is
shown. but it is betle r to locate it pcnnilllen t ly aftel' the

move th e :<Iel> th.m the mast pnrdner fore or aft to make

an ;ldjustment, cspecialJy after the deck is laid. The step
mTangcment is given in Fig. 22.
The curved deck beams just ahead of the cockpit have
a crown of 21h ill. and are bandsawcd from 'lA - in. pine.
Toward the s tem and transom this curve is gradually
natt~ncd out. Yo u will notice from Fig. 25 that the beams
are spaced 8 in. apart at centers, while the dbs al'e OI,l ly 6
in. apart. There fore a beam and rib will meet at the
gunwale only occasio nally. and when thi s occurs. they are
fastened as shown in the lower circular deta il of Fig. 25.
In this case. a gAlvanized finishing nai l and a bro nzc scrcw arc used at each joint. the
n<lilhead being covered later with the rub rail. The seat is s upported at the ends by
cleats fitt ed across three ribs. Short uprights to brace the edge of the cockpit arc
shown in Fig. 27. The centcl' of the sea t is supported by the end of th e cenlcrboani trun k .
91
 -< ---
-- - ,, .

Referring to the deck plan , Fig. 25, you will note a

double frame on each s ide of the cockpit. The outer
onc is of Vs-in. pine, while the inner one, fOl'wtlrd of
the seat. is V2-in . oak. slcHmeci ;llld bent. Aft of tht:!
scat, the %-in . piece is mel'ely a filler and can be of
pine. A brea!>thook is installed at the stem, and knees
arc fitted at the transom , also shown in Fig. 25. The
mast pardner is permanently located between two deck
beams. approximately midway between the stem and
forward end of the cockpit.
The plywood deck panels A, Band C , Fig. 25, are
th,'ce separate pieces on each side, with the joints cen-
fcred on the beams and on battenli recessed in the
b ea ms along the centedine of the deck. The plywood ,
which should be the walel'pl'oof kind, is bmught to the
outer edge of the planking and the inne]' edge of the
cockpit. The six pieces aJ'e bandsawed fmm two 4 x
8-£1. panels of V4 -i n. !Jlywood. In cuttin g, allow about
Ifs in. for planing nush, Fig. 24. The de tail of Fig. 24
shows how. the plywood sheets are l(lid out for cutting.
Paint the beams and the underside of the plywood
pieces before nailing them to the deck with galvanized
finishing nails.
While it would be somewhat more conven ie nt to fit
the centerboard trunk before installing the beams, it
can be done aftel"\vard. In either case, be sure that the
lower edges of the side boards follow the same curve
as the k ee lson and fit perfectly. as most sailboats
develop leaks at this point. Make a template of ply-
wood to lay out the curve, and then fit it to the keelson .
The sides of the trunk must be notched in about V4 in.
for the ends of the ribs. The notching helps to prevent
the ribs from coming loose i f the bottom should receive
a severe bump. In the side, sectional view, Fig. 32,
note that the ends of the separators fit down into the
ends of the centerboard s lot. This special feature of
the Zephyr makes a wate]·tight joint. Location of the
centerboard pivot bolt is also given in Fig. 32. The
.,
 @

bolt, which should be of bronze. is made

watertight by means of rubber washel's
p laced under steel washers. A :YH.:-in . cen-
terboard is specified here. However, fot'
STAtTCf.lING
beginners, the additional \veight provided THE. CANVAS
by a 1-s-in. centerboard helps to prevent
capsizing, If the latter size is used, the
width of the weU will have to be increa!;cd
accordingly. Fig . 31 shows how the center-
board trunk is filLed to the keelson . A
single strand of cotton candle wicking is
Jaid in marine glue. around the slot, and a
spreader block is left in the trunk until it is
screwed t o the keel assembly. Before be-
ing put together, t.he inside of the trunk is
painted with creosote and marine paint.
The cross-section detail, tht'Ough the slot,
shows how securely the trunk is fastened
to the keel unit with long, bronze SCrCwS,
while Fig. 30 shows how rigidly it is bl'aced
at the top by the scat and yoke. D elails of
the mahogany yoke are given in Fig. 31. -
The centerboard should be ga lvanized
heavily, especially if the boat is to be sailed
in salt water. and 2i, Th is is fa.sl.e ncd with oval-head,
After the plywood has been given two bronze screws. The coaming projects about
01' three coats of paint, and this has dried 1 in. above the deck in front and tapers
thoroughly, you cover the entire deck. in- down to about Ih in. aft, Fig. 33.
cluding the cockpit, with a piece of No . 10
cluck canvas, measuring 6 x 15 ft. Stretch Most ond Rigging
{he canvas over the deck, copper-lacking it The 24-ft. mast is made next. Eight
along the gunwales and the transom. Next, pieces of % -in" straight-grained spruce,
block up the hull and walk on t h e canvas 2% in, wide al'e requircd to build up the
over the cockpit as in Fig. 28, which l'e- hollow mast as detailed in Fig, 34, foul' of
moves the slack before tacking to the edge these pieces being 10 ft. long and fOUl' 14 ft.
of the cockpit. Fig. 29 shows the canvas long . The mast runs straight to a point 40
after being applied . Now. the rub rail and in. from th e peak from where it tapers to
coaming should be installed. 2 in, squa.re at the end. The pieces are
A neal. low coaming is shown in Figs. 26 assembled to {arm the hollow .<;ecl.ion by
93

@ measure 1 % in. 5qual'e. planing the work
lapping adjacent edges as s hown in the ci r~
cular d etail of F ig. 34, and are spliced to~
gether by cutLing the ends 45 degrees and
then centel'ing the butted ends over fille r
block s fitted in place at t hese joints. Note
that t.he joints are alike on opposite sides.
Th e blocks s hould measure 2 in. square
and 4 in. long, with the exception of those
fitted at the base and peak w hi ch s h ould be
G in. long. Assemble the p ieces wi th casein
.,
glue and bra~.s scn!ws, lllld clamp the
w Ol'k perfectly nat while the glue is
drying. The aft edge of the mast, you
will noti ce, is plan ed flat to )'cceive the
sail track.
The shea ve for the ha lyard is installed
as sh own in Fig. 35. It sh ould be either of
brass OJ ' galvanized il'Ol1 and shou ld tUn)
in a s lot which is at least V8 in. wider, so
that it will not binel when the wood
swells. E ye plates fol' the s tays arc
screwed to the mast al the beginning of
the ta per and like all ot he r fittings, t hey
should be of brass, especially for sa lt-
water use. The goosen eck , shown in the
insert in F ig, 34, can be made from bl'<\sS
s tock 01' a similar fitting can be PUl'-
c;lased ready-made.
For the boom, select a good, stl'aight-
grained piece of spruce 1% in . squa re
and 12 ft. 6 in. long. Beg inning at the
center of the pi ece, taper one end to
on th e bottom and sides only, as s hown
in Fig . 38 . The top is left flat for t he sail
t rack and the opposite end of the boom is
tdmmed to fi t the gooseneck brac ket!;.
L ocation of the b locks £01' the sheet and the
me thod of securing t he sheet to the e nd of
the boom an~ also shown in Fig. 38. Qu ar~
te r-inch he mp rope is u sed for the sheet.
Locati on s of the ch ocks, cleats, stays and
traveler are given in Fig . 39. The si de stays
<Ire screwed to t he second r ib aft of the
mast, which brings them appl'Oximateiy 10
in , behind the ce nter o f the mast.
The trn ve ler is sc rewed to the top
of the trilnsom , A square. chro-
mium-finis hed plale is screwed
ove r the mast holc in the deck,
and a g rommi:.'l tllZ"ough w hich the
halyard passes through the deck,
Fig, 37. is fitl ed just above a block
installed be neat h the d eck, Deck
cleat s arc scrc\\" (~ d into pieces of
s tock previoll!':ly fiLte d under the
d eck before it was cover e d, Wh e n
th e sail is rai!':ed, the halyal'd is
be layed In a cleat screwed to the
sea t. F i~. 37. The side stays nrc
fa ste ned to chain pliltes with c hro-
mium turnbuckles of the pipe
type, Fig . 39. The forestay is fas -
leneci l(l the onk s te m with an e ye-
bolt as in thecirculm' de t.'li !. Fi g. 39.
Th e cent e rb oard is conveniently
Top photo show, the foot of thD so il being trock ed
ra ised and lowe r ed by m eans of two block s on th e boo m in reo din en to be houled otoft, white
fitt ed as in Fi g:, 43. An upright, sCI'cwcd tu tha to we r photo, 0 , Ia rn viow of Ze ph y r, , how , Ih e
a deck b ca m nnd the keelson, provi des a fOil, trim tin es of ih hull ond roomi nen of th e cockpit
so lid su pport for attaching th e b lock and
the end of th e line, The othe r end of the
he mp rope is be layed to a cleal on the seal.
T he rudd c r. Fi g. 36, is cut from a s ingle
pi ece flf oilk L:'-'j ,; in , thick, Layout a full-
s ize p ..lttCrll o n I-in . squares and trans fel'
10 thc \\'oud. T he e dges are ta pered, below
the wHte r line. i.1!-; s how n in the section A-A.
Th e ti ller. which may be made of cit hcl'
malwgal1v o r oak, is located bel\,'ecil rHb-
bel.ed cheeks al \.he top of the rudder and
is bolted in a tapered s lo t to permit OJ s light
up-and-down movement. Place thin wash-
I;' rs on each s ide of the till e r and he !:jure
lhnt the slo\. is widc c no ugh to avoid b ind -
mg when th e wood swells. Stl'ap <lnd plate
g udgeo ns. fa s len ed to the rudde r Blld tnll1 -
som, as in Fi gs, 36 and 39. pe l'mil the rud-
der to be detached e asily by mCrlll S of a
r c m ovilb le pin. Thi s type of h inge wi ll no t
come loose and c heck s the tende ncy of the
r udd e r to fl uat upward. The :Y4-in. mahog-
any sp las h bo m'd, Fig, 44. is fa sten ed to the
ea c h point is 30 in. above ,I
level noor or
dJ"ive\\'av . At t he stem and ' It t he transom
dcck with sc r ews. which al'e insert ed in c r ee l i.I trestle as in Fi g:, 41. The he ig h t of
countt'rbnrcci h oles ::md drive n into the points A and B. Fig. 45. mus t be equal wh e n
deck bea ms. T hi s is centered forwil rd of a 6- in, s traighte dge is placed across th(!
the cockpit, j ust aft of the mast. and is top, The stmight edgc must be set leve l
r e inforce d at the peak with a brass s trip. la tel"fllly w ith the hu ll. Then, as an nssis t -
Now fo r pa inl.ing th e boal. Fir!'; t sand ant moves the s t migh ledge across the top
the e n t ire hu ll tho l'ough ly , using progres- o f th e trestle to b l'in g it ill conlact with the
s ive ly fin e r g rades of pape r un til the S UI'~ h ull, a p e ncil CilJ1 be run alo ng the top of
face is g lass sm ooth. No\\', before proce ed~ the s lJ'aightedge to mm'k the wate r line, To
ing furth e r, a watc]" line must b e marked make a p e rlll cllle nt g uid e line. wh ich i.s
on the hull . Th is is d one e asily by I1I'st easy to follo\,' with H brus h, a pointe d too l
bloc k ing up the h u ll level o n a pair of sa w s uc h as an awl. wilh the end s lig ht ly r ound -
horses as in Fig . 42. RefelTin g to the pro- e d, can be u sed to sco r e th e \\'ood as in
file view of t he hu ll and the table of olTsets Fig. 40,
g iven in the first instl.l llm e nt. you can l o~ Th e bottom of the h ul l. be lo\\" lhe water
Ci.l te puints A and B. Fi g, 45. whe r e th e true lille, is given three coats of coppe r bottom
wfltc r line meets the stem and transum . paint, us ing the type wh ich is e xpressly
Now, block up the hull horizontally su thaI. pre pared fOI' usc on bua t hull s. Th is will

"
 I
••
•"~ 5£(TI0"5

The sheQve must lurn free ly

in " slol cut slightl y oversize
to ,,!low for sw e llin g of Ih e
wood. The s lot is cut diogon_
'"
"
oily through tho most by
bor ing two holes 3 in . apart
ond sowing out the waSl e
I, mgleriol w ith a coping sow

give a smootJl. clUJ'able finish below the w.,ler

® ,I
lin e. A coat of oil paint is applied to t he hull
a bove the water line . After this priming coat
is dry, apply { OUl' coats of Rat white pai nt,
II <l llow ing amp le lime between coats for each
I to dry thOl'o ug hly. Sandpaper t his lig h tly and
then a pply a final coat of gloss e n ameL The
" deck is given several coats of fl a t paint to fill
the callva~ cove r in~ . and when dry, is sa nded
lightly as befo r e . This proced ure is repeated
until the desi red finish is obtained. Sand
the mast, boom, tiller a nd cockpit coaming
smoothly and fini sh with three coats of high-
g rade spar varnish . H cach coat is l'ubbed
lig h t ly w ith fi n e stee l wool, an excellent. S ll l' -
face w ill b e had fo l' th e final coat. All fitt ings
shou ld be l'emoved fl'om t he mast and boom
befo r e varnish in g.
As previously m entio ned, the use of a
% - in.-thick centel'board is advised fOl' ama -
te lll' sailo rs. as t he ex tra weight provides
more ballast than a thinner one. MO l'e

(:lIHK

ro C[Nll ~ OF
SlOCI\ BUL~H[A"
( rOll GOOS[N(CK)

A1 A-A

••
C'xperienced se;-unen will be Clhle to hundle
the hull cils ily when a :h,·.-in. centerboard
is use d. Naturully the width of the l'l:lIte l'-
ho;u·d wel l must he varied accordingly so
that the centerboard will not bind when the
centerbO(lrd s lot swells aftel' the boat is
launc hed. Fig, 39 g ives full dim e nsions for
the sai\. It is best to have this made up by a
competent s;'I ilmaker. The
m ateria ls and fillings re-
quired arc available at
uny nl;lrinc-s upply store,
and all the sailmakel' will
need arc the dimensions
g iven in Fig. :JB in o rder to
tU!'ll ou t a sail that will be
fit i1l1d serv iceable. For
the amateur to attempt
the sail making himself
may result in a waste of
expensive mCllcrial and
an inerTicienl sai l.
SAJ ~ 1AA(1( ~-" -'I

IWDO(II
DEl.&.ll

i-d-" -"~""--11
lR "V (tLtR

97
98
PART 6

a 21-foot Sloop

99
 OW-HEAD"

.,

, ---
A ribbed hull built
on 0 form gives ,hi.
sloop its trim, racy
,. lines. Begin work a.
in Fig. 1, by laying
Out full·size profil",
on long .trips of
h e av y pop ... . Fig _ :I:
shows the backbone
of 2 X 8.in. pine stacie
and how il is braced

>'tANK.)
4" BRONZE
The stalion mold. give th e hull
its smooth, graceful contours.
and th e profil e plans in Fig. 3
enable you quickly to layout
the curves f.ul! size" S:""fe . b.:>I.
lens ove , ;'he·· '""'lets •~tn1; !he :
foundation " 0' 111110 rib~. Ollt6 ~he"
form is built, you ' re ready til' ",'
out th e stem, a profile of 'whilh
is shown in Fig. 4 01 the "'9:,1

100
 fast in light winds and a stanch
EXCEPTIONALLY
performe r in heavy wealher, Al'I'owhc;\d is espe -
c ially d esign ed for conditions found on the smaller in-
land lakes. though s he's at home on either salt or fresh
water. With a leng th of 21 (t. and a beam of 5 (1. 11 in. she
makes a sp lendid family boat with room for eight or ten
pa.ssenge rs. The hull, moreover. is a particu larly suitable
type for t he umateul' boatbuildel' because it is built over
a form. With the form right, you can't go wrong on the
hull. Materials needed fOl" the job are listed on page Hi.
First of ali, get large sheets of clean. smooth wrapping
pape]', pasti n g e n ough s heets togeth e r to layout the
plans Cull - size as in Figs. 1 and 5. Af ter the plans arc
d "(lwn, tack the s heet to the floor ncar your work space
so that it will be handy to refer to as you go along. The
backbone of the form , Fig. 2, is cut Crom a piece made
up of two 2 x 8- in. planks. cleated together as shown .
This is s<l\vcd to the curve of the keel and notched every
6 in. to receive the bent ribs, which nrc installed la t er in
the construction.
Next c ut the st.'lt ion molds in pairs from the full- size
profiles 'you have \;]id out from Fig. 3. These are made in
pairs and can be cut from any I-in . material. Since they
do nol become a part of the boat, use cheap lu mber. Note
from the squared diagram thal dimensions to the outside

101
 @

,!~~1f Bending th e ook rib. i, /'101 difficult if you us .. either

of Ih" method. above . AI the le ft you In th e form
rlody for the con.trudion of th e rib. ond keel

to the station molds, There are e ight of

these to a side. equally spaced. as in Fig, 9.
H ere is an illlpo l't,m t point: Befo re nail-
ing on the battc n s. mat'k the s hee t' line on
the form molds. This yo u get by measuring
the distance fr om the floor as in Fig, 2,
Space the Iwo bo tto m battens so that the
line comes between them, The forwnrd
ends of the battens do not mee t at the stem,
as a space must be left hel'c to admit the
s tem piece, CIS in Figs, 8 and 15, Station No.
1 has a similClt, gap,
The keel is built up of two membcrs. the
true keel and the keelson. as in Fig, 11,
Both parts shou ld be oak, bent to the same

l' .. 8
' . -, BRONZE
...-:- SCREWS ,
1. ~. • "'H~ I "lONG

!\.~g\
~ 41 '"
(00 ." ' [115 11""; ;z ~so..
"'''0 "'JTtll D c\'H I @

~ '"'"''
!>T.... a

of the planking are to be determined by

adding 2YiI: in. at each stalion to cover the
thic kness of battens on the form. the ribs
and the planking itself. Erect the backbone
on slanting supporl<; so that the lower edge
is e xactly parallel with th e floor and 33 in.
above it. Use five pail's o f legs for this
purpose. at stations Nos. 1. 2. 4. 7 and 8,
and nail on the pail's of form molds at the
stations designated. in the manner shown
in Fi gs. 2. 6, 7 <lIld 8. No te that the form
mo lds join the backbone just at the bottom
of the notches, and st.,l ion No.8 only is
between two notches. Figs, 2 and 6. This
form does not extend aft as fal' as the slenl, Actual construction begins with the keel. .... hich
the reason for which will be explained lat- is mode up of t .... o members, the keel proper and
er, Pine battens, '% x l'h in., are now nailed the ~ ee lson . Material fat both is of ,elected aok

102
CUJ've as in Fig. 12, with the fu ll dimen-
sions given in Figs. 11 and 12. Each of the
pieces is 18 ft. long, and they must be
screwed together in t he bent position . To
do this, nail b locks to the Ooor and fit the
pieces as in Fig. 1L The screws arc set in
a dou ble row, 6 in. apart, and shou ld be
spaced to come between the ribs. The slot
for the centerboard must be cut befo r e
putting the keel unit on the form . Loca -
tion and dimensions are given in Fig. I I.
Installation of the ribs comes first. The
ribs are % x "Vs - in . oak, in 9- ft. length3.
The.y must be steamed [01" at least half an
hour. T wo suggestions fOl- boiling o r
steaming are given in Fig. 10. The ribs are
p laced directly in the wate r, and when re -
moved are bent over the fo r m as soon as
cool enough to handle. Lay one in a notch
in the backbone to locate it. then b ri ng
down the ends and clamp and nail to the
lowest batten. With the ribs in place, you Abo ve you see th e le ee l, ri bs n od Ifo nso m in plo ce
install the keel unit w it h screws and wash- o n d the slem be ing fill e d. Be low in Fig. 17 is a
el'S through th e centerboard slot to hold it ve ry imporlont d e tail. Th e ba ve l of th e kee lson
mull ~ojncid e e xa ctly w ith the slop e of th e fill" .
in position w h ile t he screws through the blo ck so tho t you get o n even b e arin g for th e plank
kee lson into the ribs are being driven. That
portion of the keelson extending beyond The stem is e u t from a piece of oa k 2:;'4
the keel , Figs. 17 and 19, is now beveled x 12 in. x 5 ft., as laid out in Fig. 4. Be-
so that. when a p lank is laid over it and tween the rabbet and bea rding lines is the
the filler block, it will lie flat. long groove or rabbet into which the
plank ing fits. The best way to make this
groove acc umtely is to notch at intervals
with a ch isel, as in Fig. 14, testin g for
depth with a fid as in Fig . 15. This is
merely a strip 1 in. wide and long enough
to reaeh back to station No. 1. T he (id
wi ll also serve as a guide in beveling the
MORT 1 $£0.::i:"~· · _
portion between the rabbet a nd the face.

.,--
-
KEfLSON ~.t-,
Secure the keel to the stem with fOUl" '-~ 1 ' ; ­
~"'-t'_,+1"
<>~ -.- _ '
. :
'TI:
in . bl'Onze bolts and drill a % - in. hole in
the joint where indicated fOl' the stop\va-
=t~#'t-,'"., - tel", Fig. 4, a w h ite-pin e dowel , which will

~ -I:'-!>
l .
~lrOAK
I I
. -I-J-l
~N£ E •
@
, ' s~~
swell and close this joint ligh tly.
P hilippine mahogany makes a durab le
transom, the laller being cut (min a piece
14 x 30 x 11}.,! in. thick. This will give a

...,-H~
... ,
, .... ide bearing fOl' p lanking as well as the
keel. You finc! the transom pattern in F ig .
, 5KEG - i1 0""( " 18. It shou ld be sawed to the greatest

-
,, ,
, 'n
." -- " bevel. thus leaving enough stock to work
down later. Bear in mind that the patter n
in Fig. 18 will not coincide w ith the pro-
jection of the t r ansom in Fig. 3 as the lat-
tel" is set at an a n gle of nearly 45 degrees.
103
 MAST,22 FT .
A80VE DECK

138. 125
sq . FEET 4& .S
SQ. FEET
Fig. 19 Ihowl 0
croll led;on of
the hull o.eo 011
re ody for plonk-
ing. II ', w.1I 10 "
know in od vo nc.
Ihe l oil ore o , 01
shown in Fig. 2b Fig . 21 IhoWI how to bore
th . rudd.r-poll hole, uling
'he ofte, Iklg 01 0 guide
The t ransom is morti sed fOI" Ihe kee lson, but
no t the kee l. as s hown in Fig. 18. An ouk knee
is bolted to lh e keel and tl"illlSO m and is fu r-
ther secured by braces dow n to the fl oor, as
in F igs. 16 and 18.
F ig. 18 gi ves the pattern for the skeg, which
is secu red to the keel w it h two galvan ized ca r-
r iage bolts a nd tw o sc rews as in Figs. 13 and
16. The afte r edge of skcg gives th e angle of
the rudder post. and se rves as a gu ide in
boring the 1:: 1.;- in. hole fO!' the rudd e l"- post
lube. F ig. 21.
Now each of t he ribs 1l1W; 1 be faired ofT,
so that the firs t plank on each s ide of the
keel will be flat. The best way to do this

-.'

104
 Pl"'~J( SCP.[W(C DOWN

CON$TROCTlO" KEE.PS JOINT

/C"-'1 I,I~( CLOSED

""W" 'C(IIHR i!Clll.II.O;

with a long batten laid over the ribs

the full length of the hull. The billle n
should be of Ihin stock so that whe n
clamped il l the ends it "'ill take the curve
of the hull easily , From this yOli can de -
termine the amount of waste 10 be til Ken
ofT eilch rib. Use a sharp drawshave or
a block plane and begin at the keel and
work outward. moving t h e batten as you
go 'l long. The essential thing is to make
sure that the batten bears equidly on eHeh
rib, This means that at sk,t ions forc and
aft you will IUlve to bevel t he ribs consid -
erably' and the degree of the bevel will
vary somewhat from the keel to the sheet'
line. E'I!.: h individual rib is fa ired olT so
that the bllllen bears its full width . Should
any of the ribs be left with the batten
touc h ing only one cOI'ner. an imperfect
joint behveen the rib and the plank will
result. A condition of strain will e:xist
wh ich is likely to eithel' split the plank or
pull the screws through it, You shou ld be
p<lrticuhll' with those ribs between the
No ve l construction of th e cenle rboord well ollowl
the wood to swe ll w ilhout opening th e joint, All
learnS are waterproofed with coullcin g coHon
stem and station No, 3. fOI" it is here that
lhe greatest curve comes in the planking,
The bevel on the transom s hould be faired
back Crom the keel only the width of the
first two or three phmks as there is a point
in connection with this bevel that will be
covered on the followi ng: pages,
Loying the Planks
Now that the frame is complete, the
planking is done while the frame is still
on the Conn. First, provide a spiling board
l OS
 __ -- ,
o

along the keel as in the sectional view,

Fig. 25 . Incidenta lly, the plank should be
screwed dow n on ly temporarily until yo u
are s ure Ihat it fits s nugly against the keel.
There are three screws into the keelson
bet\veen t he fmmes . so located that they
will not stdke those th rough th e keelson
into the ribs. Fig. 24 . Planks m'e in three
widths, Gin .. 7 in. a nd 8 in. The wider
p lan ks .u·e installed near the keel and
shee r line w ith the narrower p lanks be -
t ween. whe re the g reatest curve occu rs.
Each plank should fit snugly aga inst its

i. COAM!NG 15 "OT 'N~T... ~~tO

UN1 1L OEC!( I S COMP~tT[O

,
, Sl.... . I
L-2~' •

C~NEO 3' 11'1 6 fT.

•
.-~

on which measu remcn ts a re made to d e -

tel'm ine the curve on the edge of each
plank. Figs. 23 and 24. T h is s piling board
sho u ld b e abou t 1/., in. th ick a nd 3 in. w ide,
p l'efe rably of s pl"llce, w h ich w ill perm it it I' IIH+-,'~ENltR8CAIiO
WEll
to lie fl at over the cUl"ves of the hull. Na il
i t tempora l'i!y to three or foUl" ribs a nd
mark o ff d istances w it h a pail' of divide l's S(C110N A1 STATIO N 3
as in F ig. 23. The s pi ling boa rd is laid on
an uncut p lan k and the req u ired c u rve
plotted as in Fig. 24.
T he first plank, ncxt the keel, comes
well forward on t he stem. Fig. 26. T he
joint at th e rabbet line should be about
5th4mr*nJlf1Tmlll
HAV VOK t fOIt CENTEIlOOAIlO WU,L

%.: in . wide to admit cau lking. This shou ld After picon king. th , hull i$ lifl ed off Ihe form ond
be calTied t he full length of the plank ploced on ' ow hor.es for inslaliolion of the d eck

106
 ,
,,
•,
,
~I

"
12 1,
",-,
'4

3 .~. _ e -

,
_ _ . __

neighbor for two th irds of the width of

the edge, the I'em;:lining third forming a
V - gmove fO l ' the caulKing, Fig. 24 . To
bring the planks lightly together usc a
wedge al'l'anged as in F ig. 27. Although
the planking comes from t he mill long
enough to run from stem to tl'ansom, it
will be necessary here and there to make

BtAM
'. CENTER BATTe N

Decle b ea ms Ore fo sle n e d to

the ribs with fo ur scr ews.
Th e cockpit framing i. brace d
10 the ribs 01 thr ee points

QlOC~ fOR RUOOER · PO~T an end joint bac ked with a butt. bloc k , as
PIP{ IS MADE U<I TWO
PIECES
in Fig. 25, the butt block be ing the same
width as t he p lan k. At the corners be-
tween rib and plank, a trian gular open ing
s hould be left for a drain. There should
also be a space between the plank ends for
cau lk ing. I n the original hull , the butt
blocks wel'e located as indicated in Fig. 39.
The s h eer-Jine marks on the ribs, men -
tioned previously, will indicate the gun -
wale edge of the top plank. When all have
been permanently installed, the joints
BRACE shou ld be planed smooth. Also round over
the corners of the p lanks at the transom,
except about Ph in. where t h e s tern mold -
ing is to be fitted. Fig. 28.
While sti ll on the form, a ll scams arc
caulked . Make or buy a caulking tool si m-
ilar to that in Fig. 34. Divide the caulk-
ing cotton into thl'ee stl'ands and roll it into
a fai rly tight cord as in Fig. 30. This is
worked into the seam and driven home
with the caulking tool , Fig. 32. Th e tool is
Fig. 42 shows how blocks ore mounted for th e insid e frequentl y dipped in oil. The blade sh ou ld
f illings, including th e houling for the rudder post be smooth, as any burrs tend to pull the
107
 .. DECK BE ... MS

,
" CUilEA IIATTtN

c.ENTER Li"E I
OF MA$T
I ,'
I I
rI
BLOCK
,'-,
8O~W
STATloN3

>._ ... _ 1...' ;

I :
, I"
~, ,-
.. WV.lHi
I I" SC~EWS

, '".

cotton out each time the tool is w ithdrawn.

It is assumed that before caulking or plan-
ing: the hull, the two ribs have been in -
stalled just forward of the transom. These
arc bent oak ribs and are installed by
screw ing first to the kee l.son on
the inside, then to the planks
from the outside. With the hull
complete, sanded and caulked, it
can be rcmoved from the fOJ'm
and turned aVe!'. This is i\n:om-
plished by liawing the ribs at the
sheer li ne, as in Fig. 35. Thrce or
four men can easily turn it ovel'
as it weighs approximately 400
lbs . ~t this stage of construction.
Set the hull level on saw horses
and brace it as in Fig. 45.
Now to build the cenll~ rboard
well, Fig. 31. This is 16% in. high
at the greatest width, the bot-
tom edge being cut to conform to the curve
of the keelson. The sides a rc of white pine
with mahog,lIlY bulkheads 01' spacers at the
ends. These are sligh tly beveled to take
cal'e of the greater width of the open ing at
the center, <lnd <l %-in. piece is insel:ted
here to keep it spread apaJ·t until screwed
down on the keelson , Figs. 33, 40 and 44.
The spl'cader piece is needed because a
centerboard well always has a tendency to
bow in, owing to the swelling of the wood.
An ingenious lock joint is also incorporated
in this well. Fig. 29. This allows t h e wood
to swell at right angles to the grain with-
out openi ng the joint. Beforc assembly ,
thc inside of the well is painted with one
coat of creosote an d one of boUom paint,
and the mahogany cleats al'e sc rewed on.
Two yokes and on upright brace at the forward end The location of the well will be determined
of the cockpit give rigid support to the mast slep by the slot already cut in the keel membel'.
and th e centerboard well. Position of step givu Notches arc cut only % in. deep foJ' the
the most a .oke of J.'
in. oft. Before the deck b e ams ribs. as in Fig. 29. the ribs being cut to
go on apply two coats of marine point to th e inle-
,io. of the hull as in Fig . 46. Poinl should be
lcngth accordingly . When HUed in p lace.
worked inlO corners at ribs Clnd k(!(llson. The first lift the well and drill holes fol' No. 14
COCII of point should b e thinned to sook in SCl'e\vs in the keel member as in Fig. 33.
well; the se cond coot is opplied without thinning Then with a punch, mark corresponding

lOB
 With the deck on 01 you
see it at the left. the li nd
of the job is in sight.
Stretching and tocking

I1 - - th e canvas is rother fussy

businou. but see haw
neatly il lurns out in
Ihe photo at right

Save an malerial by cutling the six pieces nee ded for the
deck from three plywood pan e ls oS shown in Fig. 49. below

locations in th e edges of the well. and drill holes fol' the 3-in. sc)·ews.
which are to hold it in place. The joint is first treated with marine glue
and a strand of candle wicking laid along it as in Fig. 33. The wicking
should be kept clear of the sCI'ew holes. The sCl'ews al'e countersunk
~8 in. and the holes closed w ith wood plugs. Fig. 22 shows the hull com-
pleted to this stage. Follow with two coats of marine paint.
Deck and Cockpit
Now for the deck framing. To get the crown equa l 011 all 40 beams it is
best to ll1(lke up a pattern. All beams arc pine, except those at ends of
the cockpit, which should be oak or mahogany. The ends of the beams
are nailed to the lops of t he ribs with galvanized nails, and pilot holes
should first be drilled to prevent splitting the ribs. A center batten l'uns
along fo rward (lnd after decks and sets flush with the tops of the beams.
This con struction is shown in the cross section, Fig. 37, and a lso in Fig.
41. which shows how the center batten joins thc stem and transom , and
gives the location of diagonal struts or braces under the deck at the
sides of the cockpit. A number of blocks are installed for various fittings,
that for the upper end of the brass rudder-post tube being made in two
pieces as in Figs. 36 and 42. The tube itself is 1-in. standard brass pipe,
Fig. 43, the inside diameter being slightly over 1 in ., which permits free
movement of a I-in. l'uddel' post. The lower end is th readed to screw
directly into t he wood keel unit. It is not i1)stalled permanently until
canvas is put on the deck. Locating the mast step is important, as' it
must give the pI'opel" l"ake to the mast. The center line should be % in.
farthel' fonval'd at the keel than at the deck line, as in Fig. 43. which
also shows the relative position of the mast step and the centerboa rd
well. When you install the blocks supporting the foot of the mast. it
is. well to see that holes for the bolts and lag screws do not come in line.
An upright and a yoke "einforce the deck at the forward end of the
cockpit. A profile of the yoke is given in the squared detail, Fig. 38.
These parts are cut from 3/4 -in. oak 01" mahogany.
Arrowhead 's deck is of ",,;aterproof p lywood covered with canvas. as
in Fig. 47. Six pieces of % -in. plywood are )·equired. These are cut in du-
plicate from tluee panels as in Fig. 49 and are to be fitted as in Fig. 52.
However, there are two things to be done before you screw dO\vn the
deck permanently. The false bottom, Fig. 50. should be installed before
any work is done on t he deck. This will avoid the necessity of \Yalking .
about on the unprotected ribs and planking when you get ins ide the
cockpit. Although the decking is of thin plywood, which bends easily to
the curve of the beams installing it right is a rather fussy job. The im- DtCK IS CUT FIIOM T!;lRt~
portant thing is to mak~ sure of a perfect fit along the cen terline, at the !i!:~~OO~ANUS.)4X4'

109
 Be Sure Ihol the convos is folded under at Ih e edge
so that each lack goes through two thicknenes of
cloth. SpClce tacks evenly, nol more thon 1 in. oPClrt

list that th is is No. 10 duck-notlOoz. No\va

butt joints. and particularly at the gun-
wales. This means that you will have to
fair ofT the top fa ce of the gunwales so that
the curve of the beam is continued un-
broke n to the outer edge. Unless you arc
particuial' in thus fitting all the individual
pieces which comprise the deck, you are
likel y to finish with unsightly bulges or de-
pressions which will ma!' otherwise smooth
contours. When you are Sllre the fit is right,
give the underside of the plywood one coat
line of tacks is I'un al'Ound the cockp it close
to the edge on the top side to hold the can -
vas while you cut away for the opening,
leaving a flap 01' overhang of about 1 in. for
permanent tacking. These tacks arc driv-
en in only part way so that they are easily
removed when the fmal tacking is fmished.
Proceed in the same way at the deck
openings for the mast and the mainsail
halyard , as in Fig. 48. The L'1cking fin-
ished, give the canvas two coats of oil
paint, the first coat thinned so that it wil l
penetrate the cloth. Follow the second
coat with one of enamel.
Now you go inside to finish up the cock-
pit. The seats, Fig. 53, serve a three-fold
purpose, as they act as braces for the ceIl-

"SSE.MBLY or PL'fWOOO
'DECK PIECES UNOERSIOr.
PlIIN1[O errORE INS1"U:
"l iON
@

of inside hull paint and screw the pieces

down to the sheer plank and beams with
% - in . No.6 bronze screws spaced as in Fig.
54. Then smooth up flush with plane and
sandpaper around gunwales and cockpit.
Now give the plywood deck a coat of
lead and oil paint, mixed fairly heavy, and
before this dries stretch the canvas deck
covering, fastening all around at the gun -
wales and over the tn,!Ilsom with copper
tacks as in Fig. 51. Notice from the material

In installing the deck, make sure of CI perfect fit

along the centerline and at th e bull joints, so
Ihal these do not show under Ihe cClnvCls covering

110
 OECK fASTENtD WITH
.:}.'r" NO. £. BRONZE. SCREWS
tcrboard well and also support cleats for
thc mainsail halyard and centerboard
gear. The scats should be of I-in. mahog-
any, the outer ends being supported on
cleats screwed to the ribs . A strip of ma-
hogany, slotted to proper width and with
top edges neatly rounded, finishes the top
of the centerboard well. Details of the
COAMING
Dt.TAIL
Deloils of the (oaming, auembled from three parts,
is shown above. Nole angle joint between side pieces
Screw heads are puttied ove, with
a marine lead pully after the first
(001 of point is applied. All
mahogany porh o.e finished
wilh three cools of $par varnish
coaming are l:ihown in Fig.
58. This is in three parts, the
fOI·wal·d section being
steamed and bent to Ht the
curve of the cockpit. The after ends
of the side pieces are notched to
provide extens ions which add to
appearance. Notice especially the
angle joint between the side pieces
and the curved end of the coaming.
Fig. 58. This is not only cut at an an-
gie, but the ends of the joining
members are bcveled so that one
overlaps the other. The pa rts are
fastened with staggered lines of
bronze screws. the heads counter -
sunk :fiu in. and the holes plugged
with mahogany plugs. A % -in.
molding o[ mahogany finishes the
job. Note that the coaming extends
only I/.1 in . above the deck level in
the detail, Fig. 58. If desired. it may
be higher. Finally, you have to in -
stall braces from the ribs to the
edges of the cockpit as in Figs. 53
and 59.
The projecting canvas flap and
the tacks around the gunwales
111

~;":~....~
- 63. where the hull is lev-
Braces along the sides of the
cockpit cony the siroin down
10 the ribs, thus 9i"in9 Clmple
sire ngih 10 support penons
silting On !h .. edg .. of the cockpit
are the n covered w ith a
half-round ma h ogany
molding, Fig. 5S. <mel the
stem is finiJ.:hed with a half-
round III 0 I din g of solid
brass as ill Fig. 55. All parts
of lllflhoglillY includ ing the
t r<lIlSOm arc fini s hed in the
natural co lol" with th ree
coats of spa r varnish as in
Fig. 57. The first coat is
th inned with turpentine so
that it wi ll penetrate. Suc-
ceeding coats .Ire lightly
sanded.
For usc in salt water,
the cen terboa rd . Fig. 60,
should bl.! of hard brass, though for fresh
waleI'. boiler plate will be satisfactory. The
rudder. Fig. H2. shou ld be of cOI"l"espondillg In painting, the first coat should be reduced
materia l of the same thickness in either
ense. Now, before you inst~lll the rudder,
tum ou t the rudder-post bush ing and coat
the threaded end with thick white leud , applications are <Ipt to sca le 01" peel bac k
then tighten it back in place. The l'uddel'-
post head o r swivel. Figs. 61 and 65. is a
bronze casting s haped as in Fig. 61. The
h ead is drilled and slotted so that it will
clamp to th e rudder post as in Fig. 65,
which shows the complete rudder HS$em-
bly. Notice that the post is s lotted to t<lke
the rudde r, which is held in the slot wilh
brass rivets. A collar brazed to the post
112
I '
CENTtIlIlOARO
. BOlltR PV.tE
provides a shou ld er against which vel·ti -
cal ruddcr-post pltly is t<lken up. A brass
strap hinges the lowe r post cnd to the
skeg. The tiller, Fi g. 6'1. is h inged to the
rudder-post heml as in Fig. 65 .
No w. with these parts ill place you are
ready for the ope l";ltions which finish
the hull-marking the water line and
painting. One method of marking the
W<lter I ine is shown in Fig.
e led 011 saw horses and the
line is loc,ltcd by means of
a cord. weighted at both
ends and suppor t ed 011
s trai ghtedges set up so that
they tOllch the water line at
bow and stCI"ll. The hlllt
cor d is s imp ly moved
along Ihe straightedges
and the points at which it
tOllches the hu ll are
llHlrked. A l ine drawn
through these points will
give you the water line .
No,.... the area below the
water line is given one coat
of nllti - fouling bottom
paint. :md the balance. one
coal of mnrine hull paint.
Whcn the first coat is dry.
the screw heads al'e puttied
over as in Fig. 56, using a
marine le'ld putty. Follow
with two additional coats
of paint, the anti-fouling bottom paint be-
ing applied be low the wilte r line as before.
somewhat so thnt it will pe netra te the wood
and form a base for succeeding coats. Keep
the paint film bl'ushcd out well as h eavy
to the wood. Be sure that the preceding
cont of paint is thoroughly dry before you
apply another. Sanding may be neceS~I'y
b etween coats to assure a smooth surface.
Mast and Rigging
Now up with the mast and rigging! First
of all , you have to decide whether you want
the square, built-up mast or the solid,
Wh e n rea d y to mark th e w ate r lin e yo u' re re ally "on
BRONZE.
th e las' lo ng mil e," You con d o thi s os shown above CASTING O-C)',,,,
a nd o vo id th e bother o f turnin g the he avy hull OVe r

round type, Fig. 68. If local conditions re -

quire the use of a spI'earler or adjustable
BRONZE.
backstay r ig, as in Figs. 80 and 81, the RU!)O(R POST
round mast is prefcrable, as it is trim and (OIA.,--I O· LON G
neat and the fitt ings are more easily put
in place. On the othel' hand, if you use t he &RA-ZtD
rig shown in Fig, 76, which is practical un-
der average conditions, the square mast is SKtG
perhaps the better, due to its greater
strength and rigidity. Details for constr uct-
ing it al'e in Figs. 66 and 68. Fl"Om Fig. 68,
notice that the .section above the goose- BRA SS STRAP
BOLHI) TO SKEG
neck band, OJ' spider, tapers fr om 3 in.
square a t a point 3 ft. 2 in. above the foot
to 1 % in. square at the tip. T he four lh -in.
strips which compose the sides should be a
full 24 ft. in length and the tape I ' should be
sawed 01 ' planed on the pieces before join-
ing together, Greal impoJ"tance attaches to

the grain and quality of thc wood se-

ALL JOINTS GLVtO & lected . Nothing but the best will do
SCRtW(D; BLOCKS
~IAIl:DWOOD
ARt SPACfD 2"" for this job. Look out [01' knols or
'"'P.... RT dark streaks that may mean a weak-
BLOCK, Z"
SQUARE.. ness in the grain . Another important
t h ing is to p lane the tapered edges
exactly at right angles to the face in
order to get a good g lue joint all
along the length. T h en you can sct
two of the strips at ri ght angles with
waterproof casein glue in the joint
O nly sound, strai g ht- gro ined
and drm.... togethel' with flat-head
stoc k should b. utili ze d fo r brass screws spaced aboul6 in. apa rt.
th e mo st, wh e th e r th e squ ore Of course, you can usc eoppel' nails
or round co nstruction is chosen but scrc\vs are better. At the foot a
113
 2-in. hardwood block is fitted , as in F ig. 66. Then Jh - in.
spruce or pi ne b locks are spaced 24 in. ~lpart along the
le ngth ahc r w hich t hey arc g lued and screwed in place.
Add ition o f the '"CnHl ining s t rips compl e t es the mast
ready fo r the fi ttings. The tip is rounded and fi tted with
a brass 01' galvan ized fe rru le with th ,"cc eyes Cor s tays.
J ust below the felTu le , the mas t l ip is m or tised diag -
onally Cor a s h eave carrying the mainsa il halyard as
in Figs. 67 and 73.
The solid round must is <lisa tape red . the same di-
mensions holding COl' both the round and squa,"c types.
To begin wi th you m ust have a perfect piece of s toc k.
sound, st.raigh t- gl'u incd and free from knots . Produc-
ing the )"ound 111(1$t is a matter of cutting away the
was te to the p roper taper and t hen rounding to the
! tOO';S circular sec tion with a plan e 01' drawshave. The t hin g
~~f~':;..~ to look out for in plani ng down to s ize is to keep the
circu la r section uniform throughout the length . This
is impo rtant, as any matedal uneven -
•o ness w ill weaken the mast. When you
-' ge t it pla ned d own to s ize. smooth
~
with sandpape r and apply two or mo re
,I coa ls of s par v(lmish . The round mast
cm'ries the same filtings and t he foot is
squa red to fit the step . The boom , F ig. 76, is m(lde of
the same material and in t he same way as the round
mast. but is not ta pe red "nel is only 2 in. in diameter.
You'll save time and trouble by purchasin g a ll dec k
T and r igging ha rdware rendy - mndc. T h e sai l track.
" shown in Figs. 69. 10 and 76, has a t u m bu tton a t each

J
I~ ~(Q end to preven t th e slides runn ing ofT and fouling the
aEGINS
ti('lt
sa il. To make the tum b uttons you sim ply cu t sh ort
sections from th" ends of the sa il track and a ttach them

~ co;tNUI or SOUAAt
• MI<$T CHAMr£RtO _ _ _ _ ~
-" rOR SAIL TRACI(

3"So..

i@ ~-
_ _ f_

,1<
 lYl ?l l,TE$
fOR STAVS

'"

,.

Fig. 72 shows how ",a trock ond $toys ore mounted 10 Ihe most. Figs. 74 and 75 iIIuslrole other rigg ing
deloils. Figs. 77 ond 78 (o n Ihe following page ) show Ihe ope ration of soil·raising ond lowering geo.

115
 !,
[S;\ ! 1
@

Use u spre ader or udjuslabte backstay rig. Splash_
boards will keep the flying spray ou t of th", cockpit
SPREADER RIG FOR ROIiND
MASTS
to the mast and boom with sepal'ate screws
as in Fig. 70. Fig. 71 shows lhe gooseneck
fi.ttings for both the l"Dund a nd square
mast. Thc balance of the rigging details
you'll find in Figs. 72, 74 a nd 75. The cen-
terboard nlising and low eri ng gear is
shown in Figs. 77 and 78.
In some watcrs, splash boards lik e those
s hown in Fig. 79 will help to keep off Hy -
ing spray. These are cut to t h e eUl've of
the deck and screwed down to the deck
beams between the mast and the fonvCln\
end of the cockpit. Those who wish lo usc
the spreader rig. Fig. 80, will be familial'
with il<; construction. Adjustable back-

~@
stay slides and clamps, Fig. 81, may be
purchased I'eady-made, the complete unit
being fastened to the deck with heavy
screws. It's betler to have the j ib and
mainsail made up complete by a compe-
tent sailmakel'. All he needs are the spec -
ifications in the rigging plan, Fig. 76.
SPREADlR
An Optional Finish
"" You have a lready finished the hull of
A[),JUSTAStE SA(I~· your boat. but many builders, when the
STAY RIG
finish is while above the wa leI' line, apply
a final coat of white lead and turpentine.
This mix ture is very chalky and when th e
boat is in the water it washes away slow ly.
making the boat retain a clean and fresh ly
painted appel'lrance for a long time.
If you want a smooth finish on the canvas
deck, sand the deck with medium sand-
paper. Th en apply successive coats of
enamel in the co lor desired, After each coat
is thorough ly dry, give t he deck another
sand ing. Don't make the mistake of <lpply-
ing the ename l too h eavily. T wo thin coats,
carefully brushed out, will be fa r more
durable than one heavy application. Pro-
ceeding in this way, you can build up a
CL~MPS SLlOl IN
smooth surface on the deck . The enamel-
RAILS· ON!:. IS lOOS' SUl'f<lced df'ck is pU\'ely optional, howeve r,
/,DJUSTM3Lt ENto WIlEN 01'1 THAT
SACKSTAY RIG PARTICULAR lACK
since the canvas finish is pleasing and pre-
ferred by many boalmen.
11 6
 Material List for Sloop "A rrow hea d"
FORM AND HULL FRAME
LUMBER r on FORM
Back bone-2 p ieces 2 x 8 in. x 16 ft.
1 in. pine
Stnt ion molds- 5 pieces 1 x 14 in.
x 12 ft. pine
Battens-16 pieces;1I x H~ in. x 19
ft. spruce
Miscellaneous lu mber for cleats,
h·gs. etc.
LUMBEH r on. HULL FRAj\'l E
51('111- 1 piece;j x 12 in . x 5 fl. oak.
(Skcg a nd Il'nllsom knee cut
f rom waste)
Tri'lrlsom- l piece 11,2 x 14 in. x :~o
in . mahog:my
K c'!l- l piece % x 2% in. x 18 ft .
o;lk
Kcc lson- l piece lifo: x 4% in. x 18
ft. oak
Ribs-36 pieces % x '% in. x 9 ft.
ook
FASTEN I NGS
6 doz. No.8 bronze SC I'C W S, in .
long, keelson to keel
r.doz. No. i bronze screws. ~~ in.
long. keelson 10 r ibs
2 only No.9 bronze screws. 2 ~~ in. long, keel to DEC K AND FITTINGS
tr,msom
3 waterproof-plywood pane ls Il , in. x -I x 8
2 on ly No.9 bronze screws. 2 in. long. knee to ft.-fo r deck
tra nsom ,md keel
2 pieces mahogany I x 12 x :\4 in.- seats
2 only No.9 bronze screws, 2 in. long, skeg to 1 piece mahogany I~ x 3',2 x 46 in.- cap for
keel centerboard well
2 only ca rriage bolts (galv.) Ih x " in .. tran- 10 pieces pinc "2 x 2 3 ~, in. x 8 ft. 2 in.-faIIiC
som ~nee bottom
1 only carriage bolt (g:llv.) '14 x 5 in., skeg to 24 fl. mahogany I_~ x 3~~1 in .- coaming
keel 24 ft. ~~ - in. mahogany quarler-round moldin g
5 only ca rriage bolts (1)I"on7.(:) 1,4 x 4 in., stem 1 piece If.:! x 2 x :~O in. mahogany- II'ansonl
to keel un it molding
23 ft . 1'/,,- in . h al f- round rnah ogilllY molding-
PLANKING AND BEAMS gunwa les
1 bronze rudder post 1 in. d ia .. 40 in. long
200 board ft ., cedr.r 01' cypress, l}'! 'i_in. stock 7 yards No. 10 duck, 72 in. wide-deck covering:
in 6, 7 illld 8-ill. wiclths for pkmkil:g 3 gross ~4- in. No.6 b l'on ze sCl'ewli- fo r deck
2 pieces white pine. 1 x 1j x 48 in., for center- Anti - foul ing bottom pa int. m.winc pain t, spar
board well varnish , and lcad putty
4 p ieces oak o r lll:-t hoJ.!a ny. ~1I x 2 x 17 in., for
centel'oo;u'd well
MAST AND RIGGING
2 p ieces oak 0 1" mahog;lI1Y, ~~ x 2 x 18 in .• fO l'
cen te rboa rd well 4 pieces spruce, ~~ x 3 ill. x 24 ft. . fo r squ:u'e
1 p iece mahogany, 7'.. x 8 x 24 in .. for yoke mast
2 p ine boards, 3/., x 12 in .. x 16 ft.. for d eck Or, 1 p iece solid spl'uce, 3 x 3 in . x 24 ft ., fo r
beams round mast
1 p iece spruce, 2 x 2 in . x 13 fl. 6 in .. fO I' boom
16 No. 14 bron7.e screws,;\ in. long, for fastell-
Marine hardware-s.., il track,eyeplates. ferru le.
ing ccnte rboard wel l 10 keel mooring cleats ill1(1 chocks. pulleys. blocks
1 I- in . brass pipc, 24 in. long, for rudder post and fai ,·leads. ste m yoke illl(l gooseneck fit -
1,1 doz. ] I/.I-in. No. 8 bl'On1.e screws to fasten t ings as required for ro und 01' squa re llIas t
planking 1'iI-in. plowsleel cable for stays
150 ft. cotton caulking Tu rnbuckles
M:-trine lead paint, ins ide two coats J ib and ma in.s., i l ready-made
117
Reel Aids in Handling and Storing Small Canoe
'" X 4" ,,,,,, ___
WASHERS
Canoes, s m all boats and kayaks can be
lowered to 01' removed from the top of a
cal' with little cfTol't if t h e reel and pulley
arrangement s hown h ere is used . When the
craft is raised above the car it is s tored o ut
of the way un t il ready for the water again.
Two of t h e pulleys arc attach ed to the roof
by s hort lengths of rope, and the third pul-
Lantern Held Safely on Boat Deck By Rubber Clips Fastened at Base
118
/
ley, t hrough which passes the !'Ope
alulched to the hooks, is fastened to
the side of t he building . Size of the pulleys
is determined by the size of the rope. and
this in t um depends upon the weight of the
boat. The reel is made as indicated in Fig. 1
and is sc rewed to the studding at waist
height. The hooks, Fig. 2, from w hich the
boat is slung arc bent to fit over the sides of
the c ra ft.
To h old a lantem in a ve rtical position
on a boat deck, one sportsman uses rubber
cli ps tacked to the d eck as in the drawing
at left so t hat they overlap the flange
around the base of the lan tern . When not
needed, the cl ips can be l'emoved without
marring the dcck to any great extent.
Emergency Repair for Canoes
When spruce gum is ava ilable. a leaking
canoe can be repa il'cci even though you do
not have a repair kit with you. After t he
leak has been located, clean the area and
allow it to dry thorou ghly. Then fasten a
piece of spruce gum the size of a hickory
nut on the end of stic k. Hea t the gum with
a match and allow t h e drippings t o fa ll on
the leak. Spl'ead t he gum around the area
with a healed k nife.
 PART 7

~f1~ {M ';un"
CRAFT

KICK-KATAMARAN

119
TREAD THE WAVES
()It 7~ ~~ ~oat!
BUOYANCY and speed <Ire two fea-
tures of th is bicycle boat. It consists of
two ponloons and - an o ld bicycle fri1nlC .
held centra ll y nbove .md between t he pon-
toons. Propu ls ion is ob ta ined by the usc
of ,I l' i ng:-;lnd-
pi n ion ),((',11', bo lt-
ed to the pcchd
sprocket. and n
S III 11 I I t h r c (! -
bladc propcl l cl'
con nected to the
gears by il s uit-
able S h il f! ing.
The fr,llll('s o f th e
pont oons. bo th of
w h ich ,Ire cxact-
I y a l i k e. arc
m ade o f I x 2-in.
w hi t c p i n c.
w hi c h . w h e n
d ressed. is exact -
ly ~'8 x PIli in . Di-
mensions for t he
ST~M
top a nd bottom Pon loo", for your bi(ycl. bool ((In b. mad. oS shown
crosspieces a n d Or odople~ from wor ..... plul airplan e belly tonks
rc=c-o~--C---,";--:~-C'-- ,~ •
• f iG, '2

,.

I.

,.

SlERN-
"
T!•
ROMO, 2"
,
f'. 6j l· -~

120
their spacing are clearly indicated in Figs.
2 and 4. Each frame consists of four pieces
glued (marine glue) and screwed together,
and notched to receive the longitudinal
members- sheer and chine battens . Both
stem and stel'n are set at an angle, which
should be taken into consideration when
building the h'ame (see Fig. 3). Details of
the stem 01' nose block, which is cut f!"Om a
piece of 2 x 8-in. spruce, are given in Fig. L
part of the side being recessed % in. to
take t h e side planking. Exact dimensions
and meth od of cutting t h e stem from % - in.
ash are given in Fig. 6. Note the additional
reinforcing p ieces provided ac!"Oss the top
for the braces that support the bicycle
f rame, besides those that reinforce the
deck d irectly under the rubber mats. When
the frame has been finished, the side and
bottom planking, which is cut from 12-ft.
lcngths of 1/ \ x 12-in . sugar pine, is
screwed on afte r the contacting por tions
of the frame have been covered with ma -
rine g lue. Then. with the top off. the in-
side of the pontoons is given an applica -
tion of paint. and the top, also of 'I4- in.
sugal' pine, is glued and screwed on. using
:% - in. flat - head brass SCl"ews. The heads of
the screws should be countersunk . and the
resulting h~les fi lled with ha.·d water put-
ty . After sand ing each pontoon smooth .
it is given a liberal application of ail'plane
cement. and heavy muslin is stretch ed
over the surface. A hot i\"On is used to
press the cloth securely to the wood as
shown in Fig. 7. T he seam should be made
a long the upper edge, where ~"2 - in. half-
round molding is applied. this being
screwed on. A spruce keel of 'Vs x 1 %-
in. stock is screwed to the center of the
bottom of each pontoon. It is neatly joined
to the stem , after which a strip of brass
is run over the stem and a fe\\' inches
i:lIong the forward part of the keel. Each
pontoon is provided with two air vents
made up of pipe fittings. to prevent the
pontoon from b u rsting when the oil' inside
expands in the h eat of the sun. Be sure
to apply glue to the fittings before scrcw -
ing t h em in p lace over sma ll holes drilled
through the deck. to make them watel'-
tight. Th e pontoons a1'e finished with a
pl"iming coat of shellac, four coats of good-
quality exterior paint and finally a coat
of spal' vamish. Any desired colol" scheme
may be followed.
Next comes the adaptation of the bicy-
cle. A gid's bicycle is best. since the lack of
a crossbar affords mOI'e convenient mount-
ing. Cut ofT the front and rear fork s as
shown in Fig. 8. The b racing consists of
lengths of pipe, flattened at the ends and
bolted to angle-iron crosspieces. At the
front end . flat-iron clamps are used to
hold the b races to the steering post. while
the rear pipes llI:C slipped over s ho rt stubs '
121

or butts of the original fork, directly un-
del' the scat. The pipe should fit over the
stubs snugly , and it has been found best
to heal and slightly flatten the joint after
assembly, so that it cannot come apart.
One of the horizontal frame members,
originally used to support the real' wheel,
is cut off nearly flush with the housing of
the pedal - crank bearing so that it will not
interfere with the I'ing gear which is to be
added later, The corresponding fra me
mcmber is cut off about halfway from the
end, after which the cut portion is Aattened
and riveted to the real' angle - iron cross-
piece, Fig, 10 shows how an automobile ring
gear is bolted to the original pedal sprock-
et. It may be neccssary to cut off the teeth
of the sprocket to fit inside the recess of the
gear, If desired , howevcr, a brass disk ,may
be substituted for the sprocket, in which
case the disk should be the same thickness
as the spl'Ocket. A hcavy piece of It, x 1 1/.,_
in, flat il'On, bolted to the frame as shown in
Fig, 9, holds a bearing that supports the
end of the I-in, pmpellcr shaft. This bear-
ing is made from a pipe flange and short
nipple filled \vith melted lead and drilled
to receive the machined fitting on the end
of the shaft. l[ you have no metal lathe, this
fitting can be turned out quickly at any
machine shop. The tapered portion should
make a snug fit in the pinion gear, and a
small pin, driven into the tapered portion,
serves as a key for the gear. A bolt holds
122
AIR V(.NT
~
fi
4- REO,
the fitting on the shaft, while the latter
I'uns thraugh a bearing provided directly
under the rear angle-iron crosspiece, This
bearing and its hanger arc made up of pipe
fittings as shown in Fig. 11.
The angle-iron crosspieces arc fastened
to the pontoons with lag screws in the ap-
proximate positions indicated in the dek"lil
above, and additional crosspieces of I-in.
stock are provided at the front and rear.
The pontoons should be placed perfectly
parallel, 33 in. from centcl' to center. Steer-
ing is accomplished by means of a small
sheet-metal rudder, connected with sash-
cord to the front-fork stub of the bicycle.
If a commercial propeller is not available,
one can be made from fairly heavy sheet
metaL It should have a IS-in, diameter,
with a hole drilled centrally to fit the shaft,
end of \ .... hieh is threaded so that the propel-
ler can be held securely between two nuts.
COlTugated rubber mats are tacked to the
deck of the pontoons on each side of the
bicycle, and the craft is then ready to go.
Boat-Drawing Aid
When fail'ing lines on a boat drawing, an
inexpensive substitute for a naval-an:hi-
tect's spline and ducks can be improvised
from a strip of plastic which is held in place
on the drawing with tabs of masking tape.
The plastic strip should be approximately
Yl~ x % x 30 in, and the. tabs are spaced 2 in,
apart as shown in the photo. A pin pressed
into the drawing board at each end of the
strip helps hold the shape of the curve,
SA,;,,~e
in this motor-driven
1-1ERE'S something new in water- sports
equipment - n motor-driven paddle
board. It combines the common character-
istics and seaworthiness o f the su rfboard
and paddle board. bul. morc than that, it's
powe l' driven by a conventional outboard
motor. Th<ICs the new angle. Smooth,
swee ping " hull " lin es. c rowned deck imd
low motor hatch make this the sleekest,
trimmes t little craft you e vel' looked at.
Li ght enough to be c<lsily launched by one
pe l'son. it rides rough watcr like a cork.
The h ult. 01' boa rd , itself is constructed
just l ike the nonpowcl' jobs. except tha t it
is Sir.! in. deep instead of the lIs ual 3 in. or
so on the conventional s urfboa rd and pad-
dle board. Deck Hnd otltbpard plan views
sh own in Fig. 3 give the general over-all
dime nsions. Note that thc motor halc h is
phl ccd wcll forward, giving ampl e !"Oom for
a tilll man to lie fulll c nglh aft of it. Con-
trois consist of tillcr and s pccd levcl", <lnd a
clear plastic "transom permits a view ins ide
the "cngine room" [rom the rear. This . to-
ge the r with a midget headlight. could be
lig hted from il sma ll s torage battery for
n ig ht cl·uising. GenC;',ll <HT..lIlgem e n l of the
hull is shown in F ig. 1. Note that three of
the bulkheads <Ire on ly a bout haH th e width
of the others lind se rve as deck beams . In
thc engine compartment is anothe r half-
bulkhefld on the bottom, and the only one
1ha t is not spaced 12 in. on centers . The lo-
ca tio n of this is determined by the paI't icu-
lar o utboard mo lar you select.
In laY'ing o ut the board . follow the d i-
mensions give n in the s tation layoul. F ig. 1,
which s hows th e s lfltio m; :\ 11 s paced 12 in .
a part. To a chieve a tru e c u rve. usc a % -in .-
sq uare spruce 0 1' pine ba tten. ancl. by bring -
ing pressure at the e nds. let it tak e OJ nat-
unll b end. Drive n a ils into the ply w ood
123
f
ltr
bottom % in . outside the station
dimensions so that nails will not
mar the panel. and at the same
time leave material fOl" trimming.
The mark should be on the insid e
of the batten. The deck only is
completely streamlined, the bot-
tom huving extensions aft which
act as p lanes.
Details of construction are
shown in Fig. 1. Side members of
mahogany are notched into both
nose and stern blocks after bulk-
heads have been installed. The lat-
ter are of soft pine, % in. thick,
with lower corners cut away for
limber holes to permit any bilge
water seeping in to flow from one
compart ment to another. DI'ain
holes plugged with l"Oundhead Down vie w in lo e ngin e holc h showing oil fillings ond fl ywheel
brass screws are located just for - fan in place. No te sofety cord which ,,"a ches to Ihe rider's wr ist
ward of bu lkhead No. 3 and aft of
No . 5. When necessu,'y these screws a re re- oppos ite that of a bicycle. Pull ing the right
moved and the hull tipped to drain. end of the tiller back causes the board to
I n assembling, app ly casein glue to all t urn left and vice versa. If on e pl'efers the
edges of the bulkheads and on edges of the bicycle arrangement. cross the cables, cut-
side members. Where these parls contact ting holes in the bulkheads accordingly .
nose and stern blocks, use marine glue. The deck is cut fro m ljr-in. waterproof
Brass or galvan ized Aat-head screws. 2-in., plywood. the same material as is used for
No . 8 size, ue used to fflsten parts to bulk- t he bottom. There are two openings in the
heads and to nose amI stern blocks. The deck piece, one (01' the engine hatch and a
bottom, which is installed before the deck, circular hole at the s tern fOl" s teering geur
is fastened with 3/4 - in. No . 6 screws spaced illspection, to be covered with clca r plastic
3 in. apart. <Jnd a brass plate secured with roundhead
Extensions of the bottom serve as plan - brflSS screws. Aluminum bent around a
ing surfaces and al'e reinforced with 3,4 _in. scrolls<Jwed framework forms the wall of
soft-pine stock glued to extensions of the the su perstructure, with the plastic pan el
VI-in. plywood bottom piece, Holes are cut in the after end covered with a brass
in the full-size bulkheads fo]' the steering frame and wa terproofed with aquarium ce-
cables, as indicated, and should be the same ment. At the juncture of wall and deck a
distance apa rt in each, in this case 11 in" 01' fill et is made of wood putty, Fig. 1. The
the width of the cable arms . An opening in forward top is stational·Y. with a hole for
the boltom for the propeller unit and var- the gas- tank filler cap. The rear end is
iOlls pipe fittings is cut later on. Steering is hinged, and both al'e n ea lly rounded. Three

-
12'·0" .
~ , VENTS I
If
~
IS }',"' @
0 /.
@ 01:
CD
~:-- n"," " .
~ SPEED CONTROL
J [QJ-
.. . --}:,
I

f·
"

1,'-- J
I ' ''
:
I i
PLAN IN G SURfACE, .ll.

26%"
-
..

10"-+-1 4'''-+ \~
,"
DECK PLAN
,
" S6" , ,.
I"
~

=
T f,
~--24 '" --~
TO CRANK SHAFT
CENTER. 44" OUTBOARD PROFILE

125
 vents ;U'C provided in the hinged section
and covel'ed with s tandard scoop strainers
obk, inabl e fl'Om a murine hardware deal-
er. T op edge of the open section is fitted
\"'i th a rubber door seal. making the com-
partment watertight when closed. A latch
is installed at th e rear end.
Any small outboal'd motor is suit<lble for
this craft. In the original a 3%-hp., single-
cylinder, 2-cycle motor was used. No alter-
ations were requil'ed except removing the
parts shown in Fig. 4 and cutting 01T the
drive shaft and Aling the end square. A 4-
in. -dia . fan bent from sheet steel is bolted
to the lop of the sta rting disk on the fly-
wheel to ventilate the en gin e hatch. The
engine control unit is fiU ed with a safet y
devi ce consisting of a notched aml to
which the starting cord is attached . A loop
of the cord is put over the wrist. If the
rid er slips overboard the tug on the cord
automatica lly shuts off the power.
The semicirculal' gas tank is made of
shet·t brass, with four tabs, Fig. 4, located
so that they will draw the hUlk down snug-
ly on the dec k. A baffle is installed with
1~" WOOD
corners cut away . Th e nller cap is simply
a pipe with a flange br<'Jzcd to the top . Ven- ND_ 5 BUlKHfAD
tilation by the fan is aided by exhaust
from two a uxiliilry p ipes discharging
thl'Ough two forward openings as in the
upper right- hand d etail, Fig. 4.
126
Becau UI of th e pr o pe ll e r-s haft extension a launching
dally is ne cn , a ry _ This is design ed to fi t th e h u ll
snugly ond moklu the croft eaJily portable on dry land
In order to keep the engine as low as
possible, a special base is made upon which
to mount it, incorporating connections fOl'
water and exh,lUst, Fig, 7, This is a welding
job on %~ -in, steel plate and makes a very
compaclunit to which the engine is bolted,
It rests upon a brass plate bolted to the
bottom, A similar p late has the exhaust
and watet' outle ts brazed in, Assembly of
connections on these two units is shown in
Fig, 4, Exhaust pipes are installed as indi-
cated, with an auxiliary exhaust of Ih -in,
copper tubing in each adding to the powe r
of the motor by relieving back press ure of
the underwater exhaust. The undenVltter
outlets are covered by a reverse scoop into
which the cooling water also discharges.
The scoop is bol ted through the plywood
bottom, the bnlss plate upon which the out -
lets a re brazed, and also t hrou gh a boa rd
on top. Th is nssembly is just forwnrd of
bu lk head No.5,
Wat e r is drawn into pad A, Fig, 'I. from
the int'lke scoop through copper tubing,
delivered from B, Fig, 5, into the engi ne
base, tht'n up around the cylindel' and out
ag;:lin to the outlet between the exhaust
pipes. All bJ'nss-tube fittings aI'e silve l'-
sold ered, The housing of t he crankshaft
hearing: nts d own in part A and the pump
mtol' is directly undel' it in the flange of th e
propeller un it, Fig, 5. The p lywood hollom
is cu t away to receive t his stl'ellmlin ed
f];:mge, Hnd is bolted through the brass
plate and steel e ngine bnse, The real' bolt
C. Fig, 5, al so passes thmugh part B. The
laUer consists o f <\ section of pipe with the
top welded on nnd n nut also welded to it.
This is ofTset to allow foJ' the water o pening
at the bottom, Figs, 5 and 6. Part B is drawn
down on a sy nthe tic- rubbel' gasket. Th is
material is impervious to oil. Wa she rs of
this same m<ltedn l are used around the
drive ljllilft above a nd below a brass was h-
el', part .A, forming a. watertight joint. Pal't
A is a section of pipe with a wHsher welded
just be low the top. fonning: a cup fol' the
accommodation of the c r:'lIlkshaft bearing
hub, Another sectional view of part B is
shown in Fig. 5, indica t ing where the \velds
arc made.
A down view of the power plnnt is sho\\'n
in Figs, 2 and 4, indicating how t he engine
is braced crosswise by extensions on the
o l'igina i tank bracket bolted to the deck.
The tiller consist'> of a handle bar of
heavy sheet met<d bent ilS in Fig, 1 and
welded to a CO]hll' which in turn is bolted
10 a ;-}~ -i n. shaft. Below deck is another
coll al' with a spring above it. T h e Intter
hold s the till er dow ll ,lg:ainst a rubber
\Vilshel', making C1 watert ight jo int. The
tube for the engine control s ha ft is h igh
enough above the d eck to kee p water out.
A simple but sturdy dolly for launching
is built as in Figs . 7 lind 8 lmd mounted on
balloon -tired \"heels fOl' runn ingoversand,
The axle is weld ed to the ang lc -bm' brack-
e ts . which in tUn! <L!'e bolted to the cradle,
The latter t;:lpel's to fit the hull just aft of
the pl'Opellel'. and bnlances th e craft nicely
so that it is ve ry eagy to handle. Finish hull
with two coats of ename l and then wax,
127
 r:'lATTE NED
Bracket to Attach
Outboard Motor to Canoe
This simple bracket will ell<Jble you to attach an
outboard motor to your canoe or kaynk fOl' swift
tmnspol't;:llion without al'duous pmldling, Outboard
moto rs of :v" to 2 hp, are sumcient for powering the
avcra!-!e canoe. The bracke t consisL<; of a lengt h of
pipe fitted :11 one end with a hardwood bl ock bolted
in pl'lce 10 s erve as a motor mount. L - hooks to fit
u nde r Ihe g unw.des attach the bracket to the boat,
Disk Soldered to Bilge Pump Protects Boat
= __- SlICE PUMP
Becau se some bilge
pumps used on small
boats have ba ses wi th
sharply pmj ccti ng feet,
they mar the boltom
plailking when b eing
used . H oweve l·, if a metal
disk with a hu·ge hole in
the center is soldered to
the feet, it w ill prevent
dcllllage. and will not ob -
s tJ·uct Ihe fl ow of wate r
SOIOHEO because of th e center hole
and the space between the
feet. A brass disk is prefelTed as it will not rust
and is no t damaged by the action of sail watel".
128
Foot-Powered
Catamaran Is Fun +
It's great fUll to lie on the deck of
this homemade catamaran , slip
your feet into the toe-clips and
paddle ove r th e lake or bay, steer-
ing your course with the forward
ruddel' using: little efTort. Pon-
toons. of :%-in, lumber, are joined
with nails- prefet·ably galvanized
-d r iven about an inch apart, and
are calked with strips of cotton
bindin g tape laid in marine ot'
casein glue, or while lead . Ply_
wood centet'boards are SCl'ewed
on the inside of each pontoon,
The dec k. m(lde from the same
mate r ial as the pontoons. is sup-
ported by two arched cross mem -
bers of 2-in, lumber cu t as shown
and haJJ- lapped. glued and bolted
togelhe l' ,md insti1l1cd on the pon-
toons with screws thl'Ough the two
forward bu lkheads, A brace run-
ning unde r the deck reinforces it.
A stifT crosspiece supports the pad -
dles a few inc hes above deck level,
and on this piece the paddl es arc
hinged . On the dri ve s l l'Oke the
padd les swing ba c k against the
upper sec tion to which the canvas
01" leather toe -clips are attached.
and on the retul'll, they swing free.
draggi ng across the stu'face of the
water,
To use the ca tamaran as a sail-
b oat, the padd les are fastened out
of the wate r, the handgrips arc re-
moved from the rudder and a ti ll c l'
is substituted. The sk ipper now
faces in the othet· direction. with
the rudde r at the stern . The mas!.
t(lpering Crom 2 in. at the bottom
to 1 Vs in, at the top, is held in (I
step b lock on the na rrow part o f
the deck and bl"(lced by wire stays
made taut with tUl"l1buckles. T o
Curl the sai l. th e boom is s\vung up
and the sail wrapped around the
mast and tied, Se veral coats of
paint c'lrefully applied complete
the job and give you a seaworthy
boat th(lt C;li1 be used f OI' a diving
platform, SLll'fboard 01' c raft for (In
outboard moto!' as well as a fool -
powered raft.
Note in the det<lil at the lower
right of the fa cin g page that two
ce nterboards, one mounted on the
inner side of e;.teh pontoon. are re-
quired when the cata maran is
adapted for s'l iling, A mast step is
p laced behind mount £01' pad dles.
 2"X6"
DECK
SUPPORT

BOlT OR SCREWS

DECK

CtiP

,. HINGE

RHURN STROKE

X 3" X 12"
,, ,,
PONTOON I I

POWER STROKE
~\o " XS" X I 0"
""
'29
"Feathercraft" Offers New Sport to Swimmers
Propelled half by swimming and h'llf by
paddling. these feathe rweight pontoons
will provide p lenty of sport at any beach.
They arc 6 ft. long. tapered and roundt..>d
at both ends. Top and bottom arc pieces
of :%-il1. while pine of exactly the same
size and shape. These arc screwed to nose
and stem blocks and to two bulkhcflds lo -
cated unde!' the oarlock. Sides of :";.I -in .
plywood arc the n c ut out. It is preferable
to use watcl'pmof plywood for this pur -
pose, but if Ihis is not available. ordin:ny
plywood g iven sc\,(' !'al coats of paint. espe -
cially :it the ed ges. will do. In order to
make the po ntuon watertight. all join t.'>
mus t be given a liberal application of white
lead and a strip of binding tape laid be-
tween tht, contact ing surfaces. This s hould
Flat-Iron Skids Shie'ld Boat Motor From Submerged Logs
130
Vl'KIT£ I'I N~
be done at the nose and stern blocks be-
fOl'e the top and bottom arc sc rewed on,
and similarly when the plywood sid es arC!
att.c.ched. Note the bi lge drHin in the
bulkheads. which helps to empty the hull
of water, shou ld any get inside. The drain
hole at the nose is corked when the pon -
toon is in use. Besides serving to drain out
the water. the cOl'k. if not pushed in loa
tight. will prevent the hull fl'Om bursting
when the ail' inside expands uncleI' th e h ot
sun. fOI' which reaso n an air vcnt is nec -
essary . A beve led block on the top takes
oW oarlock for a two - blade padd le. To ba l-
ance the pontoo n prope rly. nn IS- in. COUI1 -
te\'\~'eight is pivoted to galvanized angle -
iro n bmckets. which (ll'e screwed to the
bottom dit'cctly under the oa rlock.
Damage to an uutbo<ll'tl 111OtOl' by having
it strike submerged logs and rocks in a
s hallow lake Cilll be avoided by fitting it
\\'i\h these skids, whieh act likc sled run -
nel's to raise the s tern over olll\' obstruc -
tion, Bolted to the hottom of the boat. the
skids arc thin e nou gh to alTer very little
rcsistflllCC to the forward movement of the
boat. Also, if you drng you r boat across a
narrow strip of kllld from o ne lake to an -
other, the skids will be he lpful.
 "

sea
}JLYWOOD, preferably the wa-
terproof kind, <l small amount
of miscellaneous stock and a tiny
gasoline motor are all you need to MCrJOP AN I) stW T
SI T 10T 16° AN6LE
make "Half-Pint." The original. I XIIAIiST P1 P£
capable of carrying three persons,
was quite a scns<ltion at Balboa
Bay, Calif. , where even the old boal-
builders expressed genuine inter-
cs t. Built in a garage, it was taken
50 miles fOl' its first dip and has
never developed a leak. This liltle
s ea sled Ciln be easily carried on
your cal', and fishermen and to ur -
is ts will find it ideal for use on re-
mote lakes having no boating fa-
cilities. It is only 9 ft. long and
so light t hat two boys can eas ily
carry it. The boat is s uitable fo r
the use of any small gasoline en -
gine of the washing-machine type,
air-cooled by a fan in the flywheel. TO P VI(W
The Ih-hp. engine w hich was select-
cd is exceptionally satis£actOl'y because the bo ltom edges and chine, and lay a I-in.
gus tank is in the base rind it is a self-con- s mp of muslin over the joint. Ove)' this
ta ined unit throughout. place the % -in. -ply wood bottom. It should
The extra-wide beam afTords ample be painted on the ins id e before screwing
room fo!' two passengers to sit side by down permanentl y . Use 3/4 _in. brass
side, and a third can even be carried on sc rcws, sta gge red 3 in. a part., on c sc rew in
the forward deck. Ove r-ali dimensio ns are the side and the next in the chine. alte r-
given in Fig. 1. The s ides arc % - in. pine. nately. The cmssfl"amcs s hou ld be put in
After cutting it to shape. screw on the ne xt. Note thnt there is a bulkhead at the
chine with H '-:I-in. flat-head brass sc rews, second fram e from the nose. When the
spaced about 4 in. apart, when all con- d eck is on , this makes a large w;'lte rtight
tacting surfaces have been liberaJly paint- co mpartment.
ed with white lead. The nose is a cmss For the s haft log. or block through
'member planed down and rounded as which the propelle r s haft runs, pre pal'e a
shown in Fig . 3. Th e s id es are faste ned to pine block as ill Fig. 8. A chann el in each
it with two large flat-hend scre ws, coun - half tak es the pmpellel' shaft. Glue the
tersunk. Apply white lend liberally before two blocks togethe r and. when dry . cut
sCI'ewing down permanently. The tran- dingonally at an angle of about 16 d eg.- a
som, or ste rn piece, is of the same mate rial I-in. rise to every 3 % in . of lengt h. Now
as the sides. with chine. cte. Put tcmpo- ins tall the bearings. the s tuffing box Ht the
r,u'y diagonal braces across the top, to rear and th e inboard bearing at lIw other
keep the sil'ucture square. and turn up- end. Put the two triangu lar blocks to-
s ide down. Apply white le;Jd alon g the get her with pieces o f wood between them
131

fJC>.5
just the thickness of the hottom . Put the
propellci' shaft through the bearings so
that it aligns properly. When the shaft
turns freely clamp the block together for
drilling bolt holes. The log should then be
loca ted in the bottom of the boat. Use
white lead and a muslin gasket whcre the
lowe r half of the Jog fits against the bot-
tom of the boat. Also apply white lead and
. cloth gaskets under the bcaring flanges
where they fit against the ends of the
shaft log. Brace with cross members and
diagonals on the hottom, inside the boat.
White lead is put under all cross members,
by the way, and the bottom screwed to
them from the underside with %-in. brass
screws. After the shaft log is in place, the
2 x 4-in. engine supports are insta lled. A
section is cut away so that a % -in.-p ly -
wood board will set at an angle of 16 deg.
when screwed to it. By bolting the engine
to this board and moving it fOl'\\,al'd 01'
backward, the engine and propeller shaft
can be aligned accurately. When location
is determined, cross members are marked
132
and sCl'ewed in place in the assembly.
A deck of V,,-in. plywood. already paint-
ed 01' shellacked. is fitted over the top
framing. There should be no raw 01' un-
painted wood anywhere on the entire
boat. Connection of the motor and pro-
peller shaft is made as in Fig. 2. Wood
beal'ings boiled in oil have been found
cheaper and just as practical as iron
ones for the rudder. The edges of the rud-
d er should be carefully streamlined. The
false b ottom is made in two sections back of
the engine and one forward. and is remov-
able. AS-in .. IO-deg.-pitch propeller will
be satisfactory. And, having made a first-
class hull , don't negJect using the best
grade of marine paint for finishing. This
will add gl'eatJy to the appearance of the
boat, especially if the painting is done in
two tones .
~- la----l
n~'~~!'- ~~~ .B~\-J:it·
SAWEDOO DOllED UNE) ,
.. -':.---.",:;.... . _---
 Your Iceboat nScoot"
The unique arrangement of the sail Dnd rigging
plan of Scoot will be apparent as soon as you
begin construction of the parts. This special rig-
ging is the secret of the extraordinary sailing
qualities that make Scoot a top-flight performer

FEATURING mdderless steering and a
flat. s h ell -type hulL here's a unique 15-
ft. racing iceboat. the original of which
dates back historically to cady days whcn
it was used in lifesaving work on New Jer-
sey's Great South Bay. Bom of the neces -
sity of being able to c!'Oss the bay even
when it \vas only partly frozen, Scoot. in
addition to its high speed and cxtraordi-
nat·y maneuverability, is noted for its abil-
ity to take to open watcr. if necessary. in
hurdling large patches of bl'oken ice.
Speeds greater than 80 m.p.h. , achieved
w ith as many as foul' passengers, put Scoot
in t he racing class. As a result of its four-
point runner suspension, its maneuvera -
bility is extremely flexible, pennitting
sharp turns without danger of capsizing or
skidding. Steered by manipulating a lal'ge-
s ize jib sai l. Scoot can be helel on an aITOW-
s traight course 01' turned almost literally
on a dime.
As eles1gned and built by Bill Harless,
noted racing champion , this version of the
scoo te r-type iceboat is the result of pro-
longed experimentation and development.
The hook sa il rig used is. in effect. a high -
performance airfoil and, because of it,
Scoot glides along efJol·t!essly in the mild -
est breezes and really scoots past competi-
,
'"
tion with a strong wind. The boat is moored
by merely tipping it on edge with the sails
flat on the ice. Except where modified to
simplify construction , the plans presented
here wel'e taken directly from the actual
boat. Original hardware. wh ich was espe-
cially designed and cast in brass. has been
l'eplaced with less expensive fittings that
can readily be improvised from common
parts easily obtainable.
Building the Hull
The first step in building the hull is to
draw the mold frames and the plan and
profile views fu ll size on h eavy bu ilding
paper, Fig. 3. The plan vic\v is drawn by
fo llowing the half-width dimensions given
in Fig. 4, while the pl'ofile and mold frames
are drawn by refelTing to the table of off-
sets in Fig. 1 and the body plan. Fig. 2. The
body plan is an end view of the plan and
profile. Note, in Fig. 4. that half-width di-
mens ions arc given to the inner face of the
inside c hine which is the line from which
the mold frames arc laid off. Offsets are
given to the outside of the planking. so re-
me mber to deduct the thickness of the
planking. I n laying out. the lines full size,
use a long batten to fail' out the curves. The
text under the h eadin g, "Laying Out Plans, "
133
beginning on page 162, will tell you how
this is done. Considerable tolerance is per-
missible in establishing the lines as long as
you do not exceed the maximum dimen -
sions given in the plan.
The hull is built in an inverted position
on a building form , Fig. 5. While the form
can be s upported in the manner shown , it
also can be mounted on regu lar saw horses.
The center deck strake is fa stened tem-
poJ>al·i ly to the form \vith C - d amps and
SC1·ews and then the mold frames arc set on
the strake at the station points as in Fig. 7.
Note he re that the mold frames are leveled
carefully and are he ld in position laterally
witll braces running to the floor. Next, in-
side chine sh·ingers, which a re 3/.1 in . thick ,
are nailed temporarily to the ends of the
mold frames. The ends of the chines are
pulled inward at the bow a nd stern with
rope slings and arc fastened permanently
to the breasthook and stern block with
brass screws. After this, a % x 6- in. keel
apron is tacked temporarily to the mold
frames and fastened permanently to the
breasthook and stern block , as shown in the
diagram , Fig. 7.
P e rmanent frames consisting of bottom
timbers and deck beams arc ma de next.
While b est construction calls for steamin g
and bending these pieces in j igs, t hey can
be bandsawed to shape if steaming facilities
are not available. T he p ermanent fram es
are installed by p lacing them 9 in. apm·t on
the stra k e and holding t hem in position
with two temporary longi tudinal battens.
Then they are screwed to the deck strake,
chines and keel apron. With this done, the
inside ch ine p ieces al·e beveled to conform
with the frame lines and t h en notches a re
cut in the chines for cha in plates, Fig. 8.
No\v the bottom planking is laid. The
photo, Fig . G, shows the plank ing partially
completed. As the hull does not have to be
absolutely watertight, calking is not re-
q uil·ed. However, the planks should be
shiplapped, or tongued and grooved at the
joints. Planking is begun at the keel apron.
and, when fin ished, is trimm ed flush wi th
the outer edge of the inside 'Chines.
The hull can now be removed fro m the
form . The mold fram es and their bn,cing
are removed and the hull is supported right
side up on saw horses. The main and bilge -

* As the hull is b uilt in On

H' STATIONS 'oW J , 3 , ,

TA BLE OF OFfSETS M• ."u.e"'ln" Fro", Ba •• Line to Bottom of Hull"
De<k c.own linl
" buttock 9" out
" buttock 18" out
" buttock 27" out
De<k thee, ~ne
Chine lin e
BOllom buttock 27" out
" bUllock 18" out
" buttock 9" out
" 01 clnter line of hull
0·10.0 0·6.0 0·5.2 0·5·0 0·5·2 0·6·0
0·6·6 0·5·3 0 ·5·0 0·5·3 0·6·2
0·9·6 0·6·2 0.5.5 0·6·) 0·7·4
0·10·0 , 0.9·0 0.7·4 0·10· 1
STRAIGHT
0·11.6 J STRA I GHT
'·0.7 '_2·4 ' ·'.7
0·\1 .7 I .•. ' ' .A·7 I .A·3 1·3·0
1·3·2 I.A·S 1_5·0 1·._5 1·3·6
0·11.6 1·3·6 1·.·5 1·5·0 1·. ·5 1·3·6
6 Stern
inverted position, me.,S -
u rem e nts or heights a re
0·7·2 0.10.0 given from t he bose lin I,
0·7-3 Fig. 2 , to t he bottom of the
0.9_3 hull . Dimensions ar e in
feet, inches ond eighth
I 0·10.0
inc h ou to t h e ouhide of th e
planking . All p lus o r minus
I 0· 11 .6 d imensions ore to be (on·
ve r ted (IS req uired when
1·0·1 laying out fo ll_s.ale line s.
1_2.2 Holf -width dimensi o ns fo r
mo ld f r ames are to in-
1·2·2 0.11·6
ner foce of ins ide chine

134
runne r c lampin g: pieces come next. These
are faste ned to eilch frame and holes arc
drilled in the m for the runne l' bolts. The
holes arc located eithel' aft o r forward of
each bottom limber as indicated in F ig. 10.
Do not pass bolt s through bottom timbers.
The mast s te p block is fastened to the
bottom l imbers as s hown in Figs. 9 a nd II.
The mas t s te p iL<;eH is a leng th of ~~ -in.
gi.llvan ized pipe. This is th readed into a
stand<lrd pipe flan ge a nd the flan ge is
screwcd securc ly to the mas t s te p block .
The pipe s hould be just lon g enough to pass
t hro ug h t he mast partner. which pro'lidl!s
an upper step. and the deck strake, coming
flus h with a fli.mge sc rewed to Ihe s tnlke.
C ockpit fr a mi n g and the sta nch ions
which s uppo rt it arC' installed I\C'X1. Note
t hat s t~Ulc hion s also <Ire installed a t the
center of th e frames. fore a nd aft o f the
cock pit. The e nds of the s ta nchio ns arc cut
to lap the fm.::e o f the frames as s hown in
the detail a bove Fig. 12. With all interiO I'
framing completed up to this point, the
decking is laid . N;l.ITOW planks, 11/ 1 in . wide,
make this a simple job. The same procedure
is followed here as was used in plunking:
the bottom, workin g ouh.... ard {I'om the
deck s ll'ak e ;:md trimming ofT the planks
flush with the innel' chines. For a neat job.
countersink all screws and fill with wood
pu tty. As will be noted in Figs. 8 and 11,
the face of the ins ide chines and the edges
of the deck and bottom planking arc cov -
ered with a n ou tside chine piece. 106 in.
thick, which also is beveled off flus h with
r-
I O'"
-(
MAKE TO ANY CON VENIENT
WORK INC !tElCH T
HOlD WITH C·CLAMPS ON fACH
SlOE. IETW!EN fRAMl:S
, FORM
136
the d ec k and bottom pl;mk ing:. Before fas-
tening the outside ch ine, the rub mil
s hould be flan ged ove r fin d tacked to the
inside face of the chine. T he rub rail. of
brass OJ' copper, is appl ied to the ch ine
from the mas t station to the aft e nd of
the cockpit and preve nls scuffing when tJle
hull is heeled over. After the ou ts ide chine
has been fitted. the s heer trim is attached.
This is set inward about '1.1 in. and covers
the joint between the decking nnd the out-
s id e chine. Completion of the hull involves
fitlin g a coaming s trip arou nd the cockpit
and installing the fl oori n g. Fig . 9. Note that
the sc rews in the fl oor bO:l rd s ;:1I'e driven
in co untersunk holes and pliltied ove r.
The bilge and mai n r unn ers may be
s haped from solid stoc k or built up of two
O J" more laminations, All runners hC!\'e a
s light curve 01' rockel', =}~ in. in 11 ft. They
are bolted to the hull according to the di-
me nsio ns given in the pl ~ln and profile
views, Fig. 4. Note in Figs . 10 and 12 that
the runner sh oes. which are angle iron. toe
inward . This is important and ha s a definite
bearing on the pel'fo rmanCI) of the iceboat.
The shoes are faste ned to the runnel's with
screws . .spaced 6 in. apart and s taggered
on eac h side.
Fitting the Rigging
The first step in fitti ng rigg ing is lay ing
out and bandsawing the ho rn. Fig . 13. The
hom should be ve ry care fully fi tted to the
curve of the d eck , and t hen tapered and
chamfered. The %I -in . bolt which holds the
I 14"'
30"
If--
·- - " .
1
----j·1
ST A 2
MOLD·HAME
30" STA I ST AT IONS
2 X,.
 horn in place, and at t he
same time mnkes it l'cad-
ily detachable, passes en-
tirely through the breast-
hook. T he aft end of the
h orn is h e ld in a U-
shaped clip, Fig. 16, which
is screwed to t h e deck.
The smooth round-bot-
tom notch for the j ib-
boom ring fitting, Fig. 16,
is formed by saw in g down
the sides, and smoothing
with a wood rasp and fme
sandpaper. A standard
tiller-rope guide for the
mainsail sheet, F ig. 22, a
7- in . traveler and cleats
for the ma in and j ib-sail
sheets a re the only other
permanent deck fittings.
The mainmast, Fig. 14,
is built up to t he required Origincll Scoot under construction. Not e thot th e bottom planking is
size by lam ina ting select- being applie d after deck planking, a reverse procedure u se d by builder.
ed spruce in a rectangu- It waS found, however, more practical to plank the hull as d e scribed
lar cross section, using
both 1/4 and % -in . stock. By constructing a bel'S project about 32 in . (See note on the
bend ing jig on a leve l fl oor of sufficient upper detail in F ig. 14.) As the V4- in. lam-
length, t h e mast can be built up in one inations are built up in the jig, mnke sure
operation . Stock for the hook section must that all joining flat surfaces are coated
be steamed before bending. Rip the 3/.1 _in . liberally with waterproof g lue and that the
stock for the lower section to 3% in. in C-ckllnps are equally spaced and tightened
width and glue and clamp it in t h e im- to a uniform tension. Allow the glued-up
provised jig w ith C-clamps. Use water- mast to dry 24 hours be£ol'e removing the
PFoof glue. The ends of the outside mem- clamps. Now, note fmm Fig. 14 that the

STERN BLOCK
l " OAK

CENTER !-.. . . . J,~"

lINf Of 19'1,',---~
KEEl APRON / ""-...I
CHECK THIS
DIMENSION ACAINST
fULl ·SCALE LINES

MOlD
fRAMES ANY
HEIGHT

INSIOE CHINE (SECUR E

I'ERMANENTl Y TO STfRN 8LOCK )

fORM AND M~LD·fRAME ASSEMBlY [7]

137
 '''''''

'"

1<. " CALV o 'if' X 1'10"

IRON SOLT 0"
COCKPI T (OAMING STRIP PIPE flA NGE
ANO 3~" OIA.
CALVo PIPE
SEE FIG. 8

~.")""" CCAMING RAil

~E

" :)<~~~::::::~;c::::~~___\~"'C~'C'"'N~'O ~
M·"·"'M"'"
""" \'"
PARTIAL SECTION AT MAST
I STAN OARD ~I. " SHIION THROUGH
PI PE HANGE BILGE RUNNER
STEP LOOKING AFT
138
 ,
I

1::
,

,
I" XI"" SPtUC! STANO«IN$
RA8IfI'ED AND IOLTm TO RAMIS

"" WOOO SCREWS ':::~~4~~~1

d
§]
, " TO C&fftR
UN! Of HUll
IPLL (OISTlUCIION AND USEMILY 'DETAILS
,ARTWJ,.Y PU.NKEO HULL WITH MOLDS RfMOWO SICIIOI THIOUGH MAIN IUNIIiS

mast is round at the heel , but that it
ch anges gmdually to a peal' s hape at sec -
tion A -A, Figl:l. 14 a nd 15, and the n back to
a round section at the forward tum of
the h ook bend. From t his point the sec -
lion again changes to an elongated oval
with a knife edge on the after tum of the
bend, Fig. 14. Shap ing of the mast is done
by hand with a spokeshave. It is thcli
sanded s mooth and fin ished wi th at least
two coats of spa\' varnish.
In the or ig ina l rig. both the jib and the
mainsa il booms were of o ne piece cut f m lll
solid s tock and grooved nlong the leng th
for the bolt rope. Figs. l{i ;lnd 2 1. The main -
sa il boom is circ ula r in section, b ut the jib

139
§] DETAIL OF MAST HOO K TAPER TO KNIFE ECCE
ON AfT SURFACE

\~"lAMIN"TIONS
32" SHOW HOOK
AN O SPLICE IN TO ". ..
lAM INATATIONS
NOTE , SUllO IN 12" RAKE
fROM " A" TO TOP Of MAST

'"
BACK.
STAY

TANGS. MAKE ONE

EACH OF %"
SHEET BRASS

SECT!C?~
___ !-T A· A
1,:." SPRUCE lAMINATIONS

i / 7. .:;<
,-, '~""'l \. :. -~~
, >" I

I "- "
SECTION THROUGH
./
MAST AT HUt

1 ' .. '"OIA.

1----.' , .
---'
JI8 800M,
12'·10" lONG

140
 When fully rigged, Scoot looks like this. Note th e roomy, shollow cockpit cllld the novel boom IClckle for
trimming th e moinsClil to s",it win d condition •. Foot of th e moin.oil i. Cllloched to boom with bo lt rope
boom tapers each way from the ri ng fas-
te ning and thc section is rectangu lar with
rounded corners, Fig, 16. However, it is
cusicI' to form the s pecial undercut gl'Ooves
if t he booms a re each made in two pieces
and glued together after fo rm ing a round -
bo ttom g roove, or £lute, in each piece, Wh en
the p ieces a rc gl ued together, t his w il l re-
sult in a single deep g roove wit h a c ircular
undcrcut as in the sectional view, Fig, 16,
Finish the booms by sand ing smooth and
coating with spar varnish. Makin g the main
and j ib sa ils is a job fbi' a professional sail-
maker unless. of cou rse. the buildel' h as
had expcrience in this work. Note f!'Om F ig,
21 that the mainsail boom is carried in a
SECU RED TO MM,l HOOK TAKE UP HERE TO HE X:
MAST 12" ,AFT. THEN
MAKE ROPE FAST
~~~~=
pocket sewed onto the foot of the mainsail.
There is no gooseneck as in conventional
rigg ing. Also, the buildcr will have to
wo rk closely with the sailmakel' in estab-
lishing the lufT o f t he mainsa il. Fig. 18. The
mast mus t be fl exed with a tackle block in
th e manner shown, and it must be held in
t h is position wh ile laying out the luff of t hc
mainsai l. The luff, 01' leading edge, is in
t he form of a pocke t, 0 1' boot. lal'gc enough
to slip ovel' the m ast. F igs. 15, 18 a nd 19.
No sa il t rack is used, the lu ff being h eld
ta u t by a shol't lashing made fast to a
downhau l cleat. Figs. 17 a n d 21. Neit her
can the mainsail be raised 01' lowcred on ce
it is fully l'iggcd. Instead, Scoot is simply
lipped on her s ide as in F ig. 20 w hen moor-
ing. Notc in Figs. 15 and 19 that both
the jib and ma in sail are fitted with special
batten p ocke t s, double-stitched at the
14'

The mClinsail CClnnOI be rCliled or lowered ance il i. fully rigg ed .
Wh e n nOI in u.e for .hClrl period., 5cool ;. lipped on ill ,ide
cciges. T he pocke ts have open ends. F ig. 19. so Ilu t
th e batlens mOly be inserted and removed casi ly.
Th e baltcns .wc of selected spr uce, woz'ked clown to
a n elongnted oval section w ith sharp ed~es . In ad-
dition. each batlen is tap ered s ligh t ly both ways
( min section 8-B, Fig. 19, to a blu nt cd~e a t the
ends. T he m u ltiple-sheave sheet yoke. Fig. 22. is
another s pecial p;l rl an d must be made up a ccord in g
to th e d eta il. Il is essen t ia l that a ll s heaves t um
free ly. T he yoke is attached to the tnwe le r by
menm; of a rill}!: bolt as shown. One end of the s heet
is pnssed throu gh the drilled ends o f t he yoke s lrOlps
and is seiz\'c1 to the standing part. Then the free
e nd of the s heet is passed t hl'ough four eye b loc ks
att,Jched to th e boom on the spaci ngs ind icated ;.md
suece$.o;ively th rou gh the four sheaves to m;lke the
n ovel dual - pu rchase t<'!ckle shown in Fig. 22. T ic an
antislipk not in t he end of th e s hee t. T heil , ch eck {Ol'
free l'unni l1 ~ of th e rope thl'Ough the b locks. This
anangemelll of boom and sheet- rai l rigging gives
t he ma in sa il a strong mooring, yel p ermits qu ick
changes n ecessary a t the h igh s peed of icc yacht ing .
",
EVOLUTION Of "SCOOT"
Un ique in mCln ' , long . e or(h for woy.
to im pro ve wind-dr ive n .hip', Ihe
u oo le r-Iypo ico boClI 'i .. 1 come inlo
boing o n Ih o Gr oot 50ulh Boy of Ihe
New Je rse y (0011. Bo, n of nece ssily
wh e n a moonl wOI noo d e d to CtOSS
th e boy ev~ n wh on only portl y frozen,
th o fote runn e, of Scoot WOI put to
wo,k in lif e lo vin g l orvi ce. II 01 once
prove d supo,;or 10 Ih e flot_runn e r punh
which hod boon piked oeron the ice
and nulle d lh'ough wot e r at CI,duoully
slow Ip eod •. Afl e r 0 fow ,un" 0 Imoll
s pril wo s Cl dd e d 10 tho sa il ,ig of 5cool.
from 'pril 10 9C1ff woo but a .tep,
follow od by Ih o Gunlher Clnd modifie d
Morconi ond, fin oily, by Ih e double-
luff l oi1 ond hook mClII. This led to
ri ggi ng CI blode on an eClr hClndle 10
se rv e Cl i 0 rudd e r, and lol er Ihe Clddi-
t ion of a jib. By cO fO full y bolancing Ih e
,ig, il woo found IhClt 1I .. ,ing cou ld
be don e enliro ly by man ipula t ing th e
iib . Th on ( om o Ih o (hon goove r from
flClI 10 ang lo-t ypo runne r' which helpe d
ho ld a Si roight couno wh on ICliling On
hord ;ce. To imp,ove Iho jib, CI boom
wo s ICl co d olong tho fOOl . lole., Ihe
10l h ing wOI me vo d of! of Ih o ji b boom
10 pormil tho iib 10 Iw ive l. II woo Ih e n
Ihol Iho le ool or ca me of Clg e in both
sp .. d ond mon ouvorClbilily, and lOOn
Ih o bayme n bogan rCldng Ihei. unusuol
croft, joining Iporllmen in orgonize d
compotilion .
 PUT TO SEA ON THIS GALLOPING "MARINE MUSTANG"

10·fT. OF

Riding this "marine mustang"

is not only great run but a test of
skill as well. for when you're
seated in the saddle, your center
of balance is well above water
.,leveL With a little practice you'll
be able to padd le it like a calloe
and even use it as an aquaplane,
towed by a motol"boat. The hull
or float is a lO-ft. section of dis-
carded telephone pole. With adz, draw- the sides by long lag screws, The keel is
s have and plane the e nds arc streamlined secured in the same manner. The head is
as indicated, then a towing ring is installed scrollsawed fl'om p ieces of 3ft - in, material
in the lip. Two cleats arc mortised into the held together by long dowels 01 ' II I-in. bolts
top for deck supports. and a pail' of planing running across the grain to prevent spl it -
fins of %-il1. stock attached at an angle on ting. and braced with triangular cleats.

Stake For Tying Boat to Bank Holder Supports Boat Anchor

A 5clf-anchOl'- This simple
ing stake for row - holder supports a
boats consists of a boat anchor a few
length of pipe hav- inches off the bot-
ing two p ieces of tom for f r'equent
auto- spring leaf changes of posi-
bolted to the lower tion. It is a hinge
end to Conn wings, screwed to the in-
As the stake is side of the boat
driven, the wings and s lotted to take
spread and grip, the anchor chain,
143
 You can put a kayak together in
no time - it's not a le ngthy all·
one·season boatbuiJding project
THIS KAYAK is staunch and seaworthy
because .it's bu il t of watcrpl"Oof plywood
over a conventional frame. Sides al'e ver-
tical and only 6 in. high from the bottom
edge of the chine to the top edge of the
sheer batten. but this gives enough fl'ee -
board to keep off moderately rough water.
Fig. 1 gives the d eck and profile plans.
Sta rt bu ilding by lay ing out the frames full
size on heavy brown paper, following the
d imensions in Fig. 2. Then transfe r the
outlines to %i - in. waterproof plywood ,
making duplicates of frames A , Band C.
Saw to the outlines with a jigsaw. Where
plywood is not used, make frames as in
Fig. 4. Cut 3/.1 x i-in . notches for the chine
and sheer battens and a 3A x 2- in. notch
for the keelson in each frame. Make a
rough frame or "building board" on which
you can assemble the fl'ame of the kayak
upside down. Cut out the stem and stern
parts, the eutwater, fi ller blocks and knees
as duplicates, deta,il G of Fig. 3. Then
60R C 1'1:"
,
.
~
J
:. SHEER :: CHINE .....
"
,,,I 0"'80"'; PRom, KEEt J
3"
assemble on the bui l ding board w ith
fl'ames, stem and stern parts, keelsoa and
the chine and sheer baltens fastened with
glued and screwed joints. Use galvanized
screws for joining the frame, Before the
glue dries make sure the frames are square
and that the asscmbly is level. Note also
hom detail A in F ig. 2 the fairing on the
chine, sheer batten and keelson, This must
be done carefully with a p];:me so that the
deck, sides a nd bottom will lay properly.
Fit the plywood sides first. then coat the
chine with marine glue and lay on %- in.
FIR STEM
PLYWOOD KAYAK
.
;:",,-
~ -_ 8 -- "'"" .-
-,
--- --
--- . .;; .-
-"

.,. ,,-

~ Ii: :

binding tape as indicated. Apply marine

g lue to t he 5heer batten also. Then screw
the sides in p illee. Many builders make
the same join t nt the chine and keelson.
Either Wily, apply mal'inc gl ue liberally
and uniformly. Spncc the screws the same
;15 on the sides. This leaves only the deck,
coaming and false bottom to be fitted. The •
spiashboards, Fig. 3, should be bandsawecl
to the exact ClIl'vntu l'c of the deck. One
effective colo r combination is cream or ALTERNATE FRAMES~" X 1).'," FIR,
SCREWED TOGETHER
white on the sides, Chinese red on the
bottom, and other purls natural color.

mwooo~~~~
Small Boat Driven and Steered by Washing-Machine Motor
Stopping Outboard Motors Properly
Do not shut off your outboard motol"
while it is ninning at high speed as this
results in fouled spark p lugs and hard re-
starting. Instead, slow the motor down to
tl·olling speed for half a minute or so before
stopping. This will burn out excess oil from
the combustion chambers.
Log Boom Protects Small' Boat
From Damage on Rocks
To avoid damaging a boat tied up on a
l"Ocky bank. set a wooden pole into the
bank to act as a boom to kee p the boat
away f!"Om shore. Y ou can tie t he boat di-
rectly to the outer end of the pole and use
a small line to swing the transom e nd to-
ward shore for boarding, as indicated at the
right, or .'lOll can give the anchor ro pe a
couple of tUl"l15 around the outer end of the
pole and bring the rope inshol·c, tying it to
a st.ake 0 1" trec upstream to servc as a
In·ace for the boom. To enter a boat moored
by this method, just loosen the anchor rope
and let the boom swing downstream until
the boat comes in close enough to board.
146
A light, economical in-
board motor can be lll<1cie
of an <'\il'-cooled engine of
the washing-machine
type belled to the s haft-
and-propeller assembly
of a discarded outboard
molol". An unusual fea-
ture is th<lt the ell'jver can
bring lhe boat to a com -
plete stop and back it up
simply by turnin g the
steering wheel. Th is is
possibl e because the !'Ud-
der rope is wound at'oLmd
the outboard shaft hous -
ing, making it possible to
rotate the propeller
through a complete circle.
The stock engine muffler.
which is mounted on an
exhaust pipe outside the
boat. I'educes the usual
outboard noise. The en-
gine is cooled adequately
by means of ventilating
holes dt'iHcd through the
forward bulkhead. The
propeller-shaft assembly
is pivot ed to the boat
stern by means of suitable
brackets as shown in the
lower right-hand detail.
A pulley of a size to rotate
the propeller at three
times the engine speed is
fitted to the upper end of the propeller
shaft, and is belted to the engine, the belt
running over two idler pulleys as s hown
in the lower left- hand detail.
This motor is cspecially suited to boats
from 6 to 8 ft. long, LorgeI' boats may be
too heavy for efficient operation .
 PART 8

7~ "SMtu"
for Young Sailors

147

The Biloxi-Type Dinghy
SEA SCOUT , the Bilo xi - ty pe dinghy , is
not only sea worthy. bu t a lso vC l'y casy
to bu ild. Look over Figs . I and 2. w h ich dc-
tail the franl t"S and s tem hoard. 01' t nmsom.
The re ill'C scvcm l points to keep in mind
be fore yo u bc~ill c utting the pa rts: The
lowe r C 1'0$;5 membe rs of all frames ;He cut
to the silme mdius: the top c mss pieces arc
n given dis lHIlCC above the lowest po int of
th e curved member, and the frame upr igh ts
arc joined to the cUl'vcd mcmbcl'S wit h an
angle jo int housed in g usset plates. <l S in
F ig. 2. W ith the frames . stem board <l nd
bui ld ing bOHrd made. the wo\'k u n the hu ll
is we II i.l] O I1 /-t.
You stm' ( assem b ling the b oat by p laci n g
the bui lding bo,' l'd on t\\'o S.l\\" horses as in
Fig. 3. The li nes marked on the build ing
board. FiJ.!. 4, ind icate where to place the
f rames. These a rc placed upsid e down
and t he center line o f the buildi ng b011l'd
must Illil tch up with tha t on the fr:1I11<.'s.
Plact.' f ralllt.'s Nos. 1. 2 and 3 a long the
lines lJIul fas ten through the bu ilding:
board w ith Sci common na ils 01' ) Ih _in.
sc rews. A d iagona l bmce s upports each
frame. F ig. 3. Aft e r t he fram es have been
attached. the sid es s hould be fa!'tencd
to the s tem. F ig. 6. Th is can be don e be-
fo re mount ing the stem on the building
board . alt hough it is s hown mounted with
the frames in Fig . 3. If the sides <Ire built
up of scvel'al pieces. you simply sC I'ew the
two lower planks to the s tem. but s hould
the sides be m'ld e up of nal"l'OW planks.
u,
"Sea StXUtt"
the fi l-st plank on the lo\\"er s ide s hould be
at leas t 8 in. wide. W hen bu ilding up t he
s ides y ou can usc s h iplap construction
which will eliminate b:lttens. The stem is
fastencd to the sid<.'s at the zero (0) line.
Fig. 5. Usc I lh-i n. No.8 flat -head b rass
sc rews spaced about J lh in. apart, in a
s tagge red rOw. In F ig. 3 is a detail show -
in g the exact distnnce from the lower edge
of the boat to the building board. By mak-
ing t his a llowance on the s tem the build-
ing board will remnit1 s trai ght.. h olding the
frHlne,; so that the lower edges will be in
l inc with the sid e planks. Now that the
s te m is in plilce wi th the s ides attached.
yO li may continue by bcnciing the sides
;lround the fram es and h olding them in
place with a piece of !"Ope. Fasten the
sides to the fmmes wi th 1 ~~ -in. No.8 flat-
head brass screws. The tmnso m is also
fastened with J ~2 -il\ . f l a l-h ead bra ss
sc rews driven into the c heck plate and
2-in. sc rews driven into the end g rain of
t he trnllsom . F ig. J6 s how!'; the olTsets a nd
also the exaet positions of fram es Nos. 1. 2
nnd 3. Be s ure to mark th"!'e pos it ions on
th e sides h efon! be nding the latte l' into
position arou nd the fri1mes. The lines are
drawn at right <l ngles to the base line and
serve as a guide to plncement o f t he frames
in an upright I>os ition. Move the tempo-
rary braces if necessnry to bl'ing the
frames into the prope l' pos ition . Now the
second and thi rd planks a re placed on each
:-;icle. The s hiplap joinl" arc f:'lstc ' led with
YII-in . copper 1;1t.:ks sp<lced 2~'2 in. ap<l.l"t
and c linched across the grain . Usc marine
glue to make the joint waterp!"Oof. Wlwll
the sides arc fastened, the next step is to
insert the ch in es as in Fig. 7. C hin es arc
fastcned to the frames with 2 I,2-in. No.8
fhlt-hcad b'·.lSS screws and to the s ides
with I 'll-i n. No.6 flat-head br<l SS sc re ws
spaced I ~2 in. apart in a stagge red row.
Then fair ofT the sides. transom and stem.
a job which must be done ca refull y to
avoid leaks. At this point. select the ty pe
of bottom construction. If it is to be the
batten-scam type. battens must be mor-
tised at the proper places and the planks
fastened to th e batte ns with 11/4_in . copper
na ils spa!o:ed 2 in. apart and clindled . If
you usc the shiplap type, Fig. 12, rabbet
the edges of the planks and fasten them to-
get her with 1ig - in. cappel" taeks spaced 2 in.
- ----,-
ap.ut and clinched. In either case, bore
holes {or the tacks. as otherwise the wood is
likely to split. Use one % x 6-in. plank as
\,"'--- ",r'-- - 'h
the center plank, Fig. 10. If you can get
them. four I,~ x 8- in. planks w ill then finish
the job. The planks are fastened to the
fram es with 1 'II - in. No. 6 flat - head brass
screws. except the center plank. whe re I 'h -
in . No.8 flat-head sc,'ews arc used. Screws
in the !o:h incs and along the outer edgcs of
the boat arc spaccd Ph in. apart in a
staggered row. Use 1%-in. No.6 flat-
head brass screws along thIS line. as well DE.TAllOF FRAMtS
i.lS into the lower edges of the tmnsom.
This clone , the boat is turned over and
the centerboard installed. Make up the the same length as the opening in the cas-
centerbOilrd well o r casing as in Fig . J5. ing. The slot is cove red wit h a gasket
The oak king pos ts ilre fastened to the made of hca vv muslin and coated with
c;:lsing with I lh - in. No.8 flat -head brass marine glue to insure a watertight joint.
sc re ws. s paced l 'h in . apart. The c,lsing The casing is fa s tened to the bottom with
s hould fit snugly against the bottom of the 2-in. screws placcd 2h in. apart. The iron
boat. and s hould be notched out at the centerboard. Fig . Ii. has a % - in. hole
after end to fit over the No.2 frame. A drilled 3 tn. up from th e bottom edge and
% - in. slot is cut in the boat bottom along 3 in. in from the side ,IS shown . A hole IS
the centerline as in Fig. 11, the slot being bored in the cenlcrcasc with an 1Y1 ,,-in. bit
149
 ®
and the pi n lIsed to pivot the hoard is n
:l:; _in. pipe n ip ple. 3 in. long. w ith ,1 loc k-
n ut on each end. By plac ing a small gas-
ket 0 1" piece of co lton behind the locknu t
and tighte n ing it. there \\,i][ be no c ha nce
for a iC,lk at t his point. A piece of jack
e h,lin is us ed to raise and 10\\"c l" the boa rd .
a pin made o f I I-in . brass rod being
slipped through the chain to <.let as a s top.
Th e cross me mber of No.2 fr<JIllC is nuw
removed and the SC <1t. F ig. 16. put in plat:c.
Th e sC; l l fit s over the lowe r end of th e
casi ng OJnd notch es into t he uprig hts of the
No.2 (rallle on each s ide. Th is joi nt bc -
ncnth Ihe sea t mlls t be watertig ht. as it is
ncar the level of the water on the outside.
:\. cap of :!;. - in. material. 3 in. wide. is he nt
0\'('1 " the cu rved portion of the casi ng.
The brcast hoo k. F ig. 14, is made of two
pi eces of wood wi th the grai n r unning .\1
right ilngles. The mOlsl par-tnez·. c u t fm lll
Llh -in. m;lte d ..d, is fastened throug h the
15'
s id es w ith 2-in. SC r e w~ . Now sc r ew the
ste rn knees in place a nd put the inner
clamps in posi tio n. Fig . 16. Th e knees a rc
fastened \vilh 2-in. N o. 8 flat-h ead brass
sc rews and the inn er clamps wi!.h l if! -i n.
No.8 screws. Betwee n t he sid es and the
c lamps. the fi ll e r b loch. Fi,L(. J G. mList be
p laced. Th ese arc mad e of 1 ~f? -in . mate -
ri(l i. 2 in. long. with the e xception of those
be tween No.2 and No. :3 frames. whic h
are 6 in. long .md d l'illed for the oarlock
sockets. The bo.lt is IIOW tume d o ve)' and
the keel and skcg put in place as in Fig. 8.
\Vhen thes e pieces 'l l'e m ad e to fit they are
fas tened from the inside wit h Ilh -in. <mel
2-in. screws. Before fastening the skeg

"
i:
(forward) . the cutwater is shaped up to
fit in its PI'OPCI' position. Whcn thc cUl-
watet' tits perfectly, you calk the cnc!:; of
the sides and fa sten the cutwuter in pl<"lce
penmU) cn tly, which is done with 10d ga l-
vanized finishing nails spaced 3 in. apart.
Th e culwilter is trimmed with ~H- in . half-
oval brass. which extends from th e top
ed ge of the boat to about halfwa y down
the skeg. Finally. the molding. Fig. 9. is
fastened in place with I- in . No.6 sc rews
slxlced 10 in . apart. Use I ~2 -in . screws
through moldin g at bot h stem fInd stern.
Bore two % - il1. holes in the s te rn knees
and put in 1/.I_in . cotton rope for the in)\'-
1N5IDt. 01' SOAT
SHI PLAP lY P( OF PlANKIN(,
HAMt NOTCfl(O
IItCt!VE SATTlN --~"""o=-~--Z
TO.... ~ _ _
i"SATHN - _»-- ," 1" 1·--1
SArtOl'SUM
COIliSTII.UCTIQN
PLANI<ING-+ .. '=='=-=-~',':,'===:.
clel'. Finally. the rudde r is mad e up as in
Fig. 20, and attached with rudder irons to
the stern. The lower edges of the I'udd~l'
arc slightly tapered to prevent dragging.
The mast, F ig. 20. is quite simple to make
by us ing one 1 'I., x 3-in. x IG-fL piece of
cypress and two pieces of:% x 3-in. x 10-f1.
Casein glue is used to <1sscmble these parts.
With a table SilW set at a 45-dcg. angle you
can rip ofT the comers up to the 10-ft. mark.
This will give you an eight - sided section
that can be rounded easil y by band with a
small plane . The pOdio n abo ve the 10- ft.
mark can be left as it is. At a po int 3 in. be-
low the 10-£1. mark a % -in . hole is bored
through the mast to l<lKe the spreader,
which is a Ih - in. brass tube. 30 in. long. A
small brass pin through the tube and mast
holds the spreader in pl"lce. Small holes are
d rilled in the ends of the lube for the ga l-
vanized rigging wire which can be of single
strand . Il is fa s tened to the mast 5 ft. above
the spreader and 5 fl. belO\v. A % -in. mast
track starting 10 in. be low the top sheave
extends 12 ft. down th e Ill<lSt. D etails of the
gooseneck are shown ill F ig. 20. The boom
is t<lpel'ed to } II I in. <Ind a fe rnlle is slipped
over the encl. extendin g 3 1h in. back .
When the mas t is made up and alllhc fit -
tings are in place. you install it in the boat.
Bo re iI hole through t he mast padner. Fig.
13, and allow the llIast to go through until
15 1
 "'

u"ri'.::Ieo.. ~o
(.ASING
StAT

"'

" ,

or S10(5

il reaches the s te p, whic h is made of J Ih -in.

malel'ii.1i placed in the bow HS f;) r up as pos -
si bl e. D o not nail or faste n it in position un -
ti l you h ave SC I the mast plumb. Scribe ..
line around t he s quared e nd of the mast
and another out lin ing the locati on of the
s tep on the bottom, Th e n c ut a rectllllg uhu'
./ soc ket in the step into w h ich Ihe foo l <i f the
/' mast filS snugly. F asten tht., step with 11h -
in. ;lIld 2-1n. sc rews through the bollom Dnd
into the skeg. T\\'o upright deck blocks a re
placed one a ll each side of t he masl on Ihe
mast partnc r, O ne of these pu lleys is used
to h ois t the $,lil a nd the ot her hIkes care of
t he top'n lift. ClcaL<; lIre attached to the
sid es o f the centc rcase.

,I
A tll nt COVllr, Fig" 18 ond 19,
i1 quile simple to make ond i1
a prolulion to Ih e boot ond
occupants when moking crui1el,
!h .. edg e1 of Ih e lenl ore held (19)
down by screw eyn ' paced 8 in. Il"lf
oporl below Ih e boal's molding
 ,.
lYl80U

,.
"

l - Sr llUOOERi

+ "---,,
"
,-
."
t- --,,---
,.
t,-
If ('20 ) J.
\ ......____..L_ _::::::::::~i-- '.'-I

MATERIAL LIST
2 p Ieces \2 x l8 In . x 12 Ct. (o r eq u h ':\ lent In lI'Ir -
row wld thllt - s lde Il it.'<:es
1 1) lece s~ x 6 In. x 10 tt.- chhll's
1 p iece ~~ x 6 In . x 10 ft .-bou om center p lnnk
;J p l eces ~ :' x G In . x 10 f t .-( 2 eac h s ld el
'2 p lect's ~11 x 8 In . x 8 tt.- ( I each sid e t
6 p ieces ~2 x 1'4 In . x 10 ft .- b:\tU' n s
'2 pieces % x 1% In. x 10 ft. 6 In.- In n er c Jlllnps
1 piece 3., x H In . x 6 tI .-sldes of ce n terclISc
I piece ~. ~ 2 x 26 IIt._ k l ng l>Osts
I piece ' .,-In . Iro n - for c Clltcl'boa rd
I p lce e ~. x I;J X 30 In .- r u d d er
1 pi ece I '. x '2 h x 30 In.- ti lle r
I p lecc 3:' x 14 x 38 In .- tran SOIll
I IJlcce 1'2 x 8 x 20 In .- ma st !H1rtnl' r
] ]ll ccl' ~~ x 10 In . x -I ft.- s{',n
I piece ~~ x 10 In . x 12 tt.- tNi m es Rn d crosspieces
I \l lecc ' 2 x 3 In . x 12 tt.-<>nk molding
I 1>leee I!~ x 8 In. x I ft. -mas t 5tcl)
2 1)lec("S I ' :' x <I In. x I ft.-Sl.CrII k nees
1 piece I' ll x 8 In . x ;J ft .- s kcl,; lind kec l
I p Iece 2 x 8 x 2-1 In.-st.cm n ll d cutwnte r
I jll<x:e Illne ~~ x 8 In. x 12 ft.- b uildIng bonnl
1 piece I ' . x 3 In . x 16 ft.- mnst
2 Il lcces 3:. x 3 III . X 10 ft.- mu s t
1 piece 2 x 2 In. x 10 ft .- boom

H ARDW AItE
2 g ross 1 ' ,, - In. No . II nat - Ium.d b rass 5c rcws 75 ft. I. ~-I ll . cotton rO lle for lineR I\lld rope travl"ler
' 2 gross 2-ln. No.8 llill-head brass screws '.~ Il lnt. C -q ua ll ty m ar lnc Sluc
5 g r oss 1' ., - ln. No.6 Ihlt - head brns... $CreW5 ,~ It). case in g lue
I ~~ Ibs. of I '~-ln . eO I)fcr n ails j If b.,ttens a r c used ) Brnss :'nd brass bolts fo r g\ly _w!re attachments
~11 l b . CO lmer trIck s . . - In . \ If lU I) j o ill t Is u se d )
1 sheave for top Of m fl 5~ 3 ft. 3,, _l n . ll"U - o " al b r fl SS for bow trim
2 s w ive l p u l leys for sheet line 25 f t . g:\lv. wire
2 dec k blocks for halyard and t Op'l} lift 3,_ln. brnss tubi n g . 30 In . 10llg
I ftll t dec k b lOCk for top'n 1If~ 2 f t . Jack c h ain ro r ccnte r boflrd 11ft
Woodf ge nera llv u fe(f Jor small - boat cOlulruct lon art' : , pnlce or oak for fr am e; p iliI' or oal.: f or tile
s t e m.lllld 7/Ia/logoIIl'. cedar or cypress for pilluk i llg . Kllee~. mast steps . 1111.1:(111"$ (llId OIlier sm a ll /1art $
either vl.!i ble o r f llb l eet to s t rai l l-ook or 1II(1ItOga lll'.

153
BUILD
"SKIP"-
I-I ERE'S boat that's not only especially
<1
suitable for young sailors, but also has
attractions for the water spOl'tsman and
the owner of a sailboat or ca bin cruiser.
"Sk ip" is an 8-ft. dinghy with a 40Ih-in.
beam and a l3y-, - in. depth. It has the ad-
vantages of case of construction, good
light-load carrying capacity, and excellent
portabi lity. It is easy to tow , the forefoot
having enough "lift" to cause planing when
in to\\I" at any speed above [our knots. This
factor and the fact that Skip's bluff ends
make the boat easy to slow away 011 fore -
deck 01' cabin top, recommend the boat as
a tender for passenger boats less than 36 ft.
in length. Fishermen and hunters will like
Skip for its light weight-less than 100
pounds-a nd the location and elevation of
the oarlocks for ease of I·owing. T he simple
design is easy and inexpensive to build.
All wooden parts except the oadocks,
which are wh ite oak. are No.2 white pine
01' cedar. The stem. transom and cornel'
braces are cut out of a 1% x 14-in. x 6- ft.
board . Sides. keelson and fenderwales are
cut from five pieces of Y2 x 10-in. x 10-ft.
materia l. The bottom , seat braces and
frames are made from two 10-£1. and two
12- ft.lengths of % x 5- in. p lanks. The seats
come from one % x 10- in. x 8-ft. piece, and
the chines are two pieces % x 1% in, x 8 ft.
Constmction is much simplified and costly
mistakes are eliminated by working exact-
ly to plan. You will need a c1eal' Iloor space
at least 8 ft. wide and 12 ft. long. In this
space c halk to full scale all the lines shown
in the plan view except those of the seats
and braces. Layout and cut the stem and
transom, keeping the saw perpendicu lar
to the material. It is better to cut t he bevel
with a plane or drawknife afterward. To
determine the correct bevel, place the stem
and transom on their respective chalk lines,
extend the side lines onto them and add Vi"
in. more at the outside. The extra YtH in. is
for cau lking. Fasten t h e bottoms of stem
and transom tempOl'al'ily to a spacer, mak-
ing their outside su rfaces 7 ft. 5 in. apart,
then incline t h em until the distance be-
tween tops is 8 ft. Do this with the pal'ts in -
verted ove r the ch alked outl ine, giving a
5-in. displacement to the stem and 2 in. to
t he transom . Another spacer tacked to the
tops will hold the ends in con'ec:t position
while the planking is applied. A thi r d
spacer, 2 ft. 10 in . long, is placed 3 ft. 8 in.

from the bottom of the stem and
parallel to it to spread the gar-
board planks, Make a loop of sash
cord a round the fOI'Wal'd ends of
the two gal'board planks and draw
them in place aga ins t the stem.
Then. simuHaneously , draw the
opposite ends until they fit against
the transom. The cross spacer
shou ld st.rike at the edgc of the
planks. Fasten the planks to the
stem and transom with l%-in. No.
6 flat-head brass SC1'ews, wh ich al'e not to
be countersunk. Turn the form right side
up and bend and fasten the sheer planks in
the same mannel·. These shou ld overlap the
garbo'a rds 11f.1 in. The rowing seat. nailed
to the top edge of the gm'boards, will be an
additional spacer.
Gal'board and sheer planks may be fas-
tened together with screws, clinched nails,
01' copper rivets. Of these, the rivets al'e
undoubtedly best. The r ivets are really
small copper nai ls and washers, and may
be obtained at most hardware stores. Drill
a small lead hole, then drive the nail fmm
the outside, place a washer over it on the
inside, cut it off about ~~I~ in. fmm the
washer, and rivet it over with a special
tool or a ball-peen hammel', while a help-
CI' holds a heavy hammer against the head.
You w ill be able to draw the two planks
together very tightly by careful riveting.
Space the rivets 3 in. apart and % in. from
the plank edge . The sheer planks are to
be 6 in . wide at a point 4 f1. 1 in. from the
top of the stem. Bend a thin strip from stem
to transom thl'ough this point and mark
the line . Saw ofT the excess material above
this line. leaving about If, in. for planing.
Measure the garboard planks 7'/ , in. wide
at a point 3 ft. 8 in . from the bottom of the
stem. From this point bend a strip to the
bottom edge of the transom and mark a
line. Without the strip, continue this line
forward in a smooth CU1've to the bottom of
the stem, Saw away the excess material, as
before, leaving about %
in. for planing. Save the
strips which have been
removed to be used later
for fenderwales. If the
planks are not of the same
stiffness, it may be thai at
this stage the structure
VI£'W
will not be true to its lines. However, it may
be squared easily by stretching a cord
tightly between the centers of the stem and
transom. A square held against eithe\'
should fit exactly against the cord. If it
does not, run a rope loop diagonally around
stem and transom and tighten until the
cord lines up with the squm·c. At this stage
lit in the corner braces Olnd the fore and aft
scats so that further operations will not pull
the hull out of shape. All of these are fas-
tened with Ilh-in. No.8 fla t-head brass
sc\·ews. Always drill lead holes for screws.
The ch in es shou ld be soaked in water
overnight or saturated with scalding water
before bending. in place. Determinc the
cOITed length by measuring with a thin ,
pliable strip, and cut the chines so that
they will fit snugly against both stem <ind
l!'ansom. Insert them from the top of the
155
boat and exercise care to avoid breaking:
while drawing them in place with carpen-
ter's clamps. Fasten them from the out-
side with 11/4_in. No.6 flat - head brass
screws spaced about 8 ill. apart. Lay a
straight plank across the bottom of the
boat and plane the chine and garboard un -
til it lies flat on them . Plane Cl yj ,; - in. out-
ward bevel to the garboClI'd to form a
caulking scam. Before applying the bottom
planks plane a J;1 (;-in. bevel in each edge .
N,1I1 the planks on befol'e sawing and saw
at an an gle in line with the sides of the
boat. Use thl'ee 2-in. cappel' nails fOI' one
end of each plank, and smooth up the
sawed edges \vith a plane.
The addition of the keelson completes V:SHAP[D S[AM r W1DE AT TO~,
~ WIDE AT 6 01To~1
the bottom. Fasten it with }If.!-in. copper
nails. five to a plank, clinched outside.
From the leftover side planking make two
fenderwales 1 ~2 in. wide . Rivet them to the
top cdges of the sheer planks, plane down
to a smooth surface, and bevel all edges.
Make two frames to fit. one on each side,
about midway between the rowing and for-
ward seats. Use the 11fs -in . matedal and
fasten with brass screws from the outside. HOW TO MAK[ MID C/IULII S[AM-S
The oarlocks al"e elevated above the 27}""
gunwales so that the oarsman will have
ample room for his hands when lifting the
blades from the water for the relurn
stroke. Make them from 2 x 4- in . white
oak to the dimensions sho\vn. and fasten
with l%-in. No.8 flat-head brass screws OARLOCK
19"
f!"Om the outside. Finishing the seams is STEM
one of the most vital parts of boatbuild- 1----- - "'-.-:..-'------.1
ing. Leave sufficient spacing between the
planks. and caulk with regular caulking
cotton. not wicking, until the seam is one
third filled. Put the cotton in by hand
with a putty knife. Under no circum-
stances use a hammer. The cotton must
remain soft enough to permit the planks
to swell without buckling. Fill the re-
mainder of the seam with a good grade of
boat-seam compound. About 1 lb. will be
sufficient for the entire boat. Then appJy
three coats of spar varnish 01" paint.

MATERIAL LIST
1 piece 1'/8 in. x 14 in. x 6 rt. white pine-
stem, transom and corner braces
5 pieces Ih in. x 10 in. x 10 ft. cedar or white
pine-sides, keelson and fenderwalcs
2 pieces 3/.) in. x 5 in. x 10 ft. and
2 pieces 3J.i in . x 5 in. x 12 ft. white pine-
seat braces, bottom, frames
1 piece % in. x 10 in . x 8 ft. white pine-
scats
piece % in. x 4 in. x 8 ft. while pine-
chines
1 piece 2 in. x 4 in. x 24 in. white oak-
oarlocks
Miscellaneous-Bras~ screws, copper nails,
caulking compound, spal' vamish, paint

156
 N7~"--6-FT. "TRAINING SHlpll

Ii

rr HE MAST was made from a I1h -in . cur-

t~lin pole. The boom once was a squee-
gee handle, the sail, a piece of unbleach ed
muslin. That's the kind of mater ial that
produced the origina l "Tiny," a 6- f1. boat
that is an excellent sailer despite t he fact "
.
that it can be hauled to the watel' on a
coaster wago n. With mast and rudder re-
moved. one adult can cany Tiny. D osigm:d
and built by Stephen T. Cms by, of Balbo,l
Is land, Calif.. (0\' his children to learn the
art of sailing. it accommodates two pas-
sengers. nnc! has all the necessary equip- The completed job will appear as in
ment of ,I full-size sailboat. General di - Fig. 4. aftel' which th e sideboilrds should
mensions a re given in Fig. 1. From this be cut as indicated by the dotted lines in
you will note that the boom is locntcd Fi g. 3. A curved CI'OSS membe r to support
h igh above the cockpit to give the skipper the d eck , as in l;·ig. 6. shou ld be put in
full vision, and a lso to prevent the boom temporarily 15 in. from the top of the
from dragging in the water when coming stem, to keep the sidcl) sp read at the bow.
about. The deck plun in Fig. 2 shows t he A form can be made foJ' this purpose if
exceptiona lly broad beam , lessening lhe you wish , and b e re moved later. Details
possibility o f capsizing.
To build the boat. fil'St make the s tem,
Fig. 5. Yo u will n eed only the hnrd-pine
block at first. the oak nosepiece be ing
screwed on latcL Next. make the form
shown in the lowe r detail of Fig. 4. around
which the ccd.u· sideboards ill'e bent. Then
comes the transom, or stern piece, Fig. G.
This is a single piece of % -in. maho~:iilllY
or oak with hardwood cleats on the ends.
To shnpe t he sideboal·ds. which l)hould be
about a fool longer than needed, wrap
them in budap sacks. one at a time. and
pOUI' scvc]'al teaketllefuls of boi hng wnter
ave)' thcm. After the watc~)· has h<l(l fl
chance to soak in .•md while the boanls
are st iIJ warm. <lssemble them as shown in
Fig. 4. At the t;.'nds nail lempor[lry cleats,
notched on the e nds. and draw the boards
together \\'ith a rope . Set in the transom
and draw the sideboards up to it by twist-
ing the rope with a stick. The n serew the
boa rds to the de'lts on the transom, lIsillg
flat-head brass screws .
157
 PlAll EO STRAIGHT
HARO PINE.
':LEAO WElGtilS
RIV[1EO IN RE'
•assn
$IOt0tI ~""
~/
®
-I'tI ·
•
\9
....._A·GA!.VANI2EO
BOLlS
.. marine glue upon it . The keel and skeg
CL~Al
of the construction <Ire given in Fi g. 7.
While the forms aI'e still in place, the
chine battens shou ld be put on . These are
of :V4 x I- in . oak. The stem ends s hou ld
be steamed 0 1' soaked for bending approx-
imately to the curve of the sideboards.
The batlens are fastened in place with
Aat-head brass screws spaced I V, in. apart.
Then the edges of t h e chines and side-
boards are planed ofT flush to get a good
b earin g for the bottom boards.
Now turn the boat upside down and put
on the % x 5-in. bottom boards- tongue-
and - groove stock. Th e ton g ues and
grooves are removed by planing and the
edges of the boards arc beveled sl ightly so
that when butted together a narrow
V - joint is formed . which is latcr filled
with cotton caulking and marine glue. The
158
®
boards shou ld be slight.ly longer than the
width of the bottom so they can be
trimmed evenly after they have bcen in-
stalled. Befol'e na ili ng them down, lay a
strip of muslin along the chine and coat it
with marine glue to make a watertight
joint.
After this has been done, the boat is
placed I'ight-side up to insta ll the keelson
<lnd battens 01' cleats. Use galvanized
shingle nai ls and clinch the ends. Force
cotton caulking firmly into t he V-grooves
with a b lunt co ld ch isel and pour warm
arc next. Note how the keel is sawed at
the stern so that a strip continues on along
t h e bottom of the skeg. The cen ter cleat
on the transom also has a strip continued
down over the end of the skeg. Install t he
ribs, inwales, deck planks and t h e blocks,
which help support the coaming, Fig. 6.
Seat ris ~ rs and mast s tep are installed
also, and a slot is cut for t he centerboard.
L ocation of this is given in F ig. 2,
The deck is laid and is covered w ith
canvas, which is tacked along the gunwale
and coaming. Mold ing covers the tacked
edges. The centerboard well is made as in
Figs. 5 and 6, w ith ma rine glu e in the
joints and hardwood cleats at the top and
bottom. A canvas gask et should be cut
and soaked in mal"ine glue for the joint on
t h e keelson, and the inside of the well
should be given t hree coats of paint be-
fore assembly. The amidships seat is built
around the well <IS shown in the deck plan.
Make the centerboa l'd , or more accurate -
ly, the "da ggerboard," of a single % x
11-in. boal'd, 32 in. long, and cut the top
at <Ill angle as shown. Cleats across the
top prevent it from slipping down th rou gh

C... "VAS
COvUltt'
"
th e well. The board s h ould be w e ighted
so th' lt it barely f1Oil ls. O a k is good mate-
rial fo r the rudder because of ils weight.
T o p revent s plitting. rabbe t it ac ross the
grain for a cleat abou t % x Ilh in . Or. if
you have a long b it. drill across p: rain for
two b rass r ods about 11.1 in . in diamete r .
Atl ach t he tiller wil h a brASs yoke . Fig . 8.
A hardwood curt<li n pole ma kes a good
mas t. a nd it s hould be at le<lst 1 % in . in
d iamete r. squared :1t the bottom f OI" the
m;)st step a nd s lightly tape red nI the top.
A p ulley is set ill a s lo t at the top fo r
ra ising the sa il. and a fer r ule prevents
sp litting. A hard wood s queegee ha ndle .
such as \\'ind ow w;:lshe rs lise, makes a
good boom and sh ou ld be 5 fl. G in. lon g.
e xcl us ive of the yo ke . This is of ha rd-
w ood. lined with lea ther. Usc s m,lll b rads
to (,l s te n the Icat he r o n. a nd d ri ve the
h eilel s in w el l. Un bleac h ed m uslin is satis -
radon' fOI" the s<lil. w hich is Cll t as indi-
cated 'i n Fig. 1. Note tha t no r ings nre
used . the mas t and boo m s lid ing ins ide wide
Th e V· joints between th e
bottom bo o td $ ore (ore_
fully (oulked wlih cOllon
(lnd u lolnd with (I go od
g r(ld e of marine glue
,
RuoorR
®
hems. The SO"lii s hould be re in forced w ith
canv as gu sse ts a l t he corners ,md a ga l-
\'OI nized or b r:lss ring sewed inlo the peak.
Spr uce battens. % x I x 24 in .. are sewed
into the sa il at the pu ints ind icated .
W ith pu lley. clea t. ring boll an d oarlocks
ins talled , the b ua l is re<l ciy fo r pai nt ing.
Use coppel' bollom paint on t h l: bottom and
t\\"o coats of w hite U ll the sides. T he last eoal
Illay be an casy -b r us h ing mixtu re of
\,·hi tc lead a nd t u rpe nt ine wh ich w iII d ry
"c ha lky" and wash a wa y s lowly as the
boat is used . thus keepin g t he hull clea ner
a nd mo re a ttract ive. AU m ahoga ny a nd
Oil k parts sh ou ld be fi nish ed with \ \\" 0 coalS
"f spal' var nish . The cen terboard and rud-
der a rc pai nted a b right red. A coat of
g reen 0 1' g ray is s uitable for the inside.
159
HANDY WAYS TO MOVE SMALL BOATS
Trailer Hauls Different Boats
By Using Special End Gates
An,vonc having two boats of different
types can utilize one smitH trailer to haul
them by simply making two sets of inter-
changeable end gates. In this \'lay, it takes
but a minute to make the trailer suitable
for either bO(lt. The top edge of each end
gate is cut to the contour of the boat bot-
tom it is to carry find padded at the points
where the bottom of the boal will rest on
it. The padding can be pieces of old tires,
if available, or you can use several thick-
nesses of burlap, canvas, or other sturdy
cloth.
160
Handy Cart to Transport Canoe
BOlT
(OTTfR . PIN
STRAP
BU CKLE
A~' _ _ >-(,=:~~~:G'
Small enough to be calTied in your canoe
when taken apart, this light cart simplifies
the problem of transporting a large canoe
to and from the water. It consists of two
wooden wheels mounted on a pipe axle
which is rJattened and drilled in the center
fa!' attaching screws. As shown, the sup-
port is cut to the same contour as the canoe
boltom and it is also drilled to accommo-
date a lawn mower-type handle and lock -
ing bolt. Note that the canoe is prevented
from slipping by a strap buckled around
the handle.
Barrow Hauls Boat to Beach
For moving a boat a short distance to and
from a beach, one sportsman attaches rings
to the gunwales of the boat to slip over the
handles of a garden wheelbal'l'ow. With
this arrangement, the invel'ted boat can be
lifted at the stem end and wheeled easily.
Wheeled Dolly for Boats
O!le man can handle small boats easily
with the help of this dolly. It is made of Rat
iron formed to slip over the bow of the
boat. T\vo legs extend dowmvard to act as
a fork for the wheel which is. prefe\'ably,
one that has a large rubber tire. A bolt
serves as <tn axle and spacing sleeves are
used on both sides of the wheel to keep it
centered. The comel's of the dolly arc
padded to p!'event scratching the finish on
the sides of the boat.
 PART 9

Build Your Boat

'RUjItt/

161
 BUILD YOUR
Editor's Note : Information given in
this section of BUILD A BOAT is in-
tended only a s general introductory
information for the amateur in
building small boats . Dimensions
and details are merely to illustrate
t he proportions, shopes, positions
and location s of the parts and are
not sufficient to build anyone of the
boots in othe r parts of the book

v- eonOM
K[n

SUCCESS in building a boat depends

on two things, knowing befor ehand
exactly w hal ty pe boat you "'lOrnt to build
lind t hen gcUing started 6ght on t he
construct ion. Once you have the job ac-
cu ra tely laid o ut the l'est is easy.
La ~' i llg out plans: W hen you go over
the plans of YOU I' boat YOli wi ll find
dnnvil\gs ,md figures simi hll" to t h ose
shown in Figs. 2, <1 and 5. T his includes
the lines, pl'oAle, half~bre~dth lines plan
und body plUll, and table of offsets. FI'om
these it is poss ib le to layout the plans
accurately to full size. The fi r'st step is

pel' to m~ke a si ngle sheet large en ough

dnlw tuget
to p;:lste the deta
her ils full ~ size
s heets pa~_!~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~f~
<'IS in F ig:, 6,
of wn.lpping
When laying: o fT t he h u ll lines fi rst ~L t- e Rt"'DTH LINt.S
str ike th e cen terli ne and on th is loca te
the intel'sections of lines for' the vm' ~ Of Off SETS
io u s s tation s. A, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 as '2' TABLE ' . . G,nu; Of\:<<,:\\f.~
'F'rg. 4 an d <'I Iso on yOUl' b l u e~ \,.=J . ..: rn l. I S('\\\:~·\!'I~'·~~~I:<G
S h own In 01,11::<",0:<; .\lIf. l . . ':0 i.-'l1\ , m ll Of \ I.. .
pI·inls. These lines should b e exactly . .\:<" ,\lIf.
at right ;mgles to t he center lin e, Next, .\ ,.
co n s u lt the t~b l e, Fig, 2, " Half~
Bre~dth 5 From Center'line," and you "

w ill note that t he d imension of the

shee l' and cented ine at stal ion A is ,
given as 0-8-7. whieh m eans 0 ft. 8 in.
and '0/8 in. Ma rk t ha t point, then p ro~
cecd with s ta tion 1. which d is tancc
fl 'om s hecr to cen tel'line is 1~ 6 ~2 , or 1
ft. 6 in . and 7~ 01' % in, Con ti nue w ith
all othe r stations in like mann er . " "
When the points s how ing where the
sheer crosses the transverse or station
lines are located, ben d a 1 x l~in. pine
batten along these poin ts an d st.rike a

"
.* • - - .
162
BOAT RIGHT
line. This will give you the actual s heer line
of the comple ted boat. Usc the natural
curve o f the batten in your work. The chine
curve comes next .md, to avoid confusion,
i t is a good ide" to lise a red pencil or chillk
for this. The chine is laid out in the same
lllanner as the s heer line . S ec the lo\vCI'·
right details in Fig. 4. You will nole that in
the haH-breadth lines plan , Fig . 4. arc shown
two horizont;:.! Iin cs d esignated ;\s Buttock
1 .. nd Buttock 2. These arc only necessary
in round-bottom boats. that is, w here the
sec tion between keel and chine is curved .
Lik e wise the hol'iwntallincs ll1<lt'k cd LWL
(load water line) . LLI and LL2 al'e I' C -

AOI,INO ·6 0110M
QO .... "IO·BOTTO .. CUHlR BOARD
nll

OffSll TAfllL SVSTtM

C~II ti t "PPlltO T$ ANY WIDTH or
TYPE. or tlVlL "'iI-"""PlANKING

- -- --- --I'"~ __
L "

----+------,. ,co -- ' __ ~

'.,
,,
,
--
2
' 1
8A.S[ lIN[ I
:
A
I
0
_ ______-:::c::: __
~ .. ==r--~n~iO.q:.""i4q
-I- __ '
, C[NTUI LINE.""" I I
- ----r--BVTlOCK ' - ; - -- , -....:
_______ ...JSUTTOCK _ _ .~ _J

quired on ly where the sides are curved, or

hil ve a bulge between sheer line and chine,
To layout the lines profile you mus t
have a base line . and if your fl oor space is
of limited area, you can use the centerline
already drawn as it base line. Ve rlicallines
ar'e drawn at right angles 10 the base line,
and the s heer line laid out by consulting
the table of offsets, under "Heights Above
Base Line ." For instance. location for sta-
tion 0 on the s heet· line is given as 3 ft. 11
in ., for station A, 3 ft. 9% in. When all the
locations at·e mar·ked on the vertica l lines,
a batten is bent a l'Ound t he curve to touch
all the points Hnd the sheet· lin e is marked.
In like mannet· pl'Occed with the rabbet
line, the chine and the keel lines, lIsing the
same color crayon. Now you can layout

" ') , " .... ~ .:..... - , . ' -"\. -

163

th e frames for the s tations. You have the
width across the lop of t he frames, 01· dis-
t.·mee bet.ween sheer lines. which consti-
t.utes t.he width of the boat. at that point.
You also have the widt.h at the chine, like-
wise h eight from rabbet to chine and from
chine to sheer, which completes everything
necessary for laying out a V-bottom frame
having fla t sides. However, if there is a
CUl"ve in either of these lines between chine
and rabbet or sheer, you will need the
body plan as in t he top-right detail, Fig. 4,
a nd the lines Buttock 1, BuLlock 2 and . de-
pending on the boat , LWL, LL I and LL2.
The d imensions given on the offset table,
Fig. 2, are to the outside of the planking.
There fore. in m~king sLation frames, be
sun:;' to allow fo)" the p lanking width.
Buildil1~ the frames: If other wood is
not specified, make the frames of while
oak. Us ually t hey al·e mad e with a lap
joint at the chine, bolted with galvanized
bolts on the larger hulls. Side members
<Ire <llways longer t.han the compl eted job,
wi t h a temporary cross member to prevent
th e ir b eing forced in when putting on the
pl<lnking, Figs. 8 and 9. This cross member
is later removed. Notches for seam b<lttens
a re bes t cut after the frame is installed on
the keel. for better alignment. Notches for
keel and chine al·e cut before fastening the
frame to the keel. An exceptionally sturdy
164
.,
cur Off liT
SHEE R liN t
~< TER
INSTAlU NG
DECK e.l ~l--.s
frame without excessive we ight is made by
bolting on oak gussets at the chine and
keel. The contacting surface is first paint-
ed over with copper bottom painl. Ma-
chine, instead of carriage, bolts are used
wi th washers on each side. For a light sail-
boat or dinghy, water-resistant plywood.
brass or galvanized gussets can be used.
Steam-bent ribs, Fig. 12, are used in many
designs, and are prepared for bending by
s teaming or boiling in a tank or large iron
pipe, Fig. 14, fOI" about an hour. They are
then bent to shape ovel· an invcl·ted fonn
on which the boat is to be built, the e nds
clamped or screwed to the form, or drawn
down by twisting wire, as shown.
Building the keel: Keels usually are of
white oak and can be made in one or two
pieces. The one-piece job requiJ·es T"Ough-
ing out the rabbet on a circular saw and fin-
ishing with a plane. If there is a pro-
I.

n ounced eliI've and it is necessary to as-

se mble the two-piece k eel b efOl'e putting
nn frames. the two membe rs can be bent
between blocks nai led to the floor <md
screwed together in that position, Fig. 12.
Coppel' boltom paint shou ld be used on the
co ntacting surfaces. If picc c~ t he full length
of the boa t are not aV;lilablc, lhe keel C,1I1
be sp liced. as indicated in Fig. 13. This
mak es a ve r y strong joint and , if the uppe r
• the m being left with a straight edge at the
Slick, 01' "fid," he ld against the first fmme
m; in the lo\\,el··right detail, Fig. 10. When
the test n otches, F'ig. 7, arc the proper
depth, chisel out the waste between them
to the same depth. Knees. Figs. 10 and 11,
are made in t\\'o 1) 1' three forms. one of
top so as to t:lk c adv(mtage of the fu ll
strength of the wood. Cutting a curve in a
stem is pal·tly rOi' appearance ilnd parlly
to give morc mom furw.ll·d. Shorter bolts,
however, can be used in <l cut·away knee.
Stop·water plugs arc essential. These nrc

'"'
block is beveled, the
curve will not be im-
paired. In built-up
frHIl1CS. the keel is set
in a notch, but with the sleam-bent frame
this is not practical, so fille r blocks are
used in stead, as shown in Figs. 13.15 and 16.
Shnping stem and knee: Oak may be
lIsed fol' stem and knee, Figs, 1, 3, 7 and 10.
As a I'abbet or V-groove must be cut fol'
the en ds of the planking <l iang its cUl'ved
length. the beginner may wish to make his
stem in two pieces, bolted toget her. In this
manner he can form the groove with dnHv·
shave and plane, whereas in a one·piece
stem the work must be done with a chisel.
In the laUel' case the rabbet must be fin·
ished while the stem is installed on the keel
permanently. Preliminary test notches
may be cut on the workbench. When set
up, these notches can be tested with a
165
 simply soft while-pin e dowe ls. abo ut % in.
in diam ete r. driven in to n ti ght fit. Moisture
ca u ses t hem to s\\'(,11 a nd form a watel'tight
joi nt, Fig. 10.
Bu ilding the tra nsom : The d esig n of
most boats pe rmi ts tt"(msom frames to b e
set up on the kee l t he s;mle as s tation
frames, and th e p la n king put on la ter. In
this case th e transom fram es difTe r fl'om
sta tion-frame construction onl y in that
the)'£' arc b u t t in sle;ld of hlP joints, with
g usset.s on th e fu rwa rd sid e as in the
uppcI'-right d c:t<li l. Fi g. Hi. Small transom s
c.m be mad e in one pi ccc without cleat.s 0 1'
ballens, but always l'cqui rc a kn ee. Get-
ting the pl'op el" bevel on a transom is a job
d one best afte r the Ir<lllsom is on the keel.
Roughing cu ts <l 1'C done with a h andsaw
and fini s hed \\'it h a pkmc. \\' her e t\\·o o r

PlANKS II'ISTALL [.O

»<0 S.l.WlO TO SlVE\,.
•..r l tA MOUIITI];(i flWl(,.'

~~ ONr.- PIECJ:. It(U TWO,PI(CE. K((L

e...,
'"

t1l(I,.· 11 0tO ASSE.M ~L'Y r~ "'I1 r.

ma rc p lank s a re requircd for the
transom. <l nca lel' ca u lking job is ac-
complished by se lling ca ndle wick-
ing in a I'a bbel w ith marine glue,
rather than in the V-joint which
would be visi b le, Bult heads in tr<ln -
soms s hould be countersunk enoug h
rOR fll ... I1 [S
to be co vered with a wooden plug.
Fastcning fr a mcs to kcel: GalvH-
nized 01' broll ze hardwal't! should be
f ULL LlNGT " used thro ughout in .111 boats, espe-
1I1\l1tN3 O~l~ cially in pm'L'; b elow the water linc.
STI\IIOIl HOlDS
Various methods of fastening frame s

~''\\'~~=@=''==Ii' !J~·----n
to the kee l are gi ven in t he lowel'-
left d etails, Fig. 16. In a ll cases screw
01' bolt h e'ld s ou ts ide the hu ll must
be countersunk .
Asscmbl)' fram es: Building a boa t
@ on a specia ll y c o n s tructed fram e
makes t he work much simpler. An
ASSlI1Bl 'Y fR .o. Mt
rem 6( 1'.11 RI 8S easy one to build is a sim p le kee l-
mold with an upright at one end to
s upport the s tem , Fig . 17. The kee l-
mold is simp ly a p lank with t he up-

"6
p(:r edge t r imm ed to the curve of the k eel.
I n lh is type of h;une the boat is bui lt up-
right. By building the boat upside down
the planking pmble m is much casier.
Anot her common method is the st rong back
assembly frame. Fig. 18. Hulls with be nt
ribs arc casilv built over a form as sho w n in
Fig. 19. }o~ fJl' 'hulls ove r 20 ft. long. and of
cons idcrable weight, a frame can be built
of a series of 2 x 4-il1 . uprights cut to the
prope r le ngth and angle to conf01"ll1 t.o the
\'abbet lin e, Fig. 15. The keel or keelson is
easily ben t to this line by a we ight (lftt·'r
which it. c:.1II be sec u red with four or five
screws drivcn ini o the upright s. Wh e n a
deep keel M shaft log is to be in sta lled , two
0 1' three of the uprights are simply knock ed
out to m::lkc I·oo m.
l~ l allkill g: Having erected the fram es o n
the keel in th ei r relative positions, planking
is the next step. The\'c are severa l arrange- crah s uch as skiffs unde r 12 ft.. %- in. or
m e nts of planking. illustrated in Fig. 2 1. ~S- in. waterproof plywood makes construc-
Thi ck plank s , % in. and lip. Cill1 be in- tion very simple and the job needs caulking
stalled on the frames without ban c ns. be - on ly at chines, s tcm and transom . Wh en
cause thcre is enough surface 0 11 the edges
to p e rmit beveling from l,z to 11.1 thc thickw
ness forming ,I V-gl"Uove into which coHan
candle wickinp: can be driven over mar ine
glue 01' white lead. The thicker plank s are
advised fo\' heavy-duty boa ts. dee p-sea
cruisers, ;md others des igned fOI" l"Ough
going rather than speed. For lig hte r eraft
s uch as outboard I'unabouts and sp eed -
boat s, p lank s from ~8 in. to % in. can be
used prov ided baLtens, Fig. 20, arc placed
behind the joints. Overlapping ph1l1ks, o r
lapst l"ilke, ;:u'e su itable fOI" sevcnd Lypes of
hulls. The lap is secured with c()pper
rivets. marine g lue or white lead be w
ing app lied fi rslto the contacting slIr-
face s. TowaI"d the stem and stem the
bevel of the planks becomes wider,
until at s tem and transom the plank s
p resen t a smooth surface. This ar-
rangeme nt of planks can be applied
to l'ouncl or V -bottom hulls. For small

167
 should be used. the heads countersunk and
covered with l)Lltty after the first coat of
paint. Remcmber that the planks an'! first
partly beveled along the edge.
Caulking: S evend methods of cau lk ing
are shown in Fi g, 23. Wh en the edge of the
phmk has no Clll've it can be grooved to a
depth equa l to about. half the diameter of a
chalk line. A strip of the latter is laid in Oil
marine g lue, and the next plctnk is brought
up tightly against it, compJ'essing the chalk
line, A favOI'ite method of wateJ-proofing
at the chines is to fasten cotton candle
wicking diagonally with brads h ammcred
over, and laid in mllrine g lue . Binding tllpe
serves the same purpose.
Compressing the center porti on of the
phmk edge with a special tool also gives
satisfactory results, as s hown in one of the

planking the frame ,

usually the sheer planks
are installed first, alter-
nating one plank star-
boal'd, then one on the
port side. Bottom planks
c;m be laid longitudinal-
ly, cl'Osswise, 01' diagonally. In the la Uer
case a double bottom is often made. Fig. 22,
with thin diagona l planks directly lIpon the
frames, a s h eet of canvas in paint bc:tween,
and lengthwise planks over that. Ends of
the plrmks arc not trimmed to chine and
transom lines unlil all are la id.
" SpiIillg" planks: Very few hulls are
designed to take p lanks that are the sam e
width and full leng th . Usually they must
be tapered toward the stern, or toward
both stem and stern, Transferring this
CUJ've from the boat to the p lank is called
spiling. For ins tance, to layout the gar-
board sirake, or p lank n cxt the keel, a t hin
spiling board 4 01' 5 in . wide is laid a long.
side the keel, and at each frame a mark is
made with a compass, Fig. 23. The spiling
board is removed, a hull plank is laid be-
side it and the mark s are transferred to
the plank. A batten is then laid along the
marks to give the true curve of t hat plank
as it fits against the keel. A handsaw
is best fol' cutting the plank to rough
shape. Allow foJ' finishing with a jointer
plane . Before drilling screw holes for the
planks, they shou l d be drawn snugly
against pJ'eceding planks with either cab-
inelmaker's clamps, 01' wedges, as in Figs.
24 and 25. Only galvanized or brass screws
168
details. Fi g. 23. The wood is planed down
to the level uf the depression. thc phmks
placed closely together, Clnd s ubseq ue nt
dampness swdls the compressed port ion
quickly. milk in g a watertight joint without
caulking. Then there's the o ld reliable
method o f tamp ing in cand le wicking with
a caulking tnn l ovel' Illflrine glue. F o r the
stem rabbet a cable of five or six strands
of wicking is Iflid in marine glue, ,mel the
same pl'ocedure followed on the edges of
the t r 'lIlSOIll . If the plank s must tak e all
unusual I.\\"is t. and no facilities are ilVidl-
able for steami ng ur boiling, a good suak-
ing in w;lte l" wi ll limber them up. If on ly
one end is 1.0 be ben t, wrap in burlap as in
Fig. 21). and leI. a stream from th e hosc
trickle down it throughout th e night. For
full-length soaking, dig a llanow trench.
Figs. 27 and 28. lay in un old tmv<lulin, fill
with watci' and weigh t the plunks with
roc ks 01' bricks. Place strips of wood be-
tween t hcm so t hat waleI' will reach a ll
sides. Fig, 29 shows the method of u sin~
butt blocks where the planks ~re not long
enough to rcach lhe fu ll length o f the b OHt.
Ce nterhoards and wells: Special carc
must be g iven to the construct ion of the
centerboard wcll because it is h ere that
leaking invariably begins after a l"Ough
sail. A simple, satisfactory well is shown in
Fig. 31. C leats along t he sidcs are bolt.ed
through the keelson , w it h a canvas gasket
in ma rine g lu e IHid between, The center-
board fol' th is is Ih - in. oak wcighted \vilh
lead, ancho rcd in circular openings with
nails 0\' sc rews. A brass st rap along the
bollom sCl'ves to \'einfo rce the board and
fOl'esta ll warping. Whenever a wooden ce n-
terboard is lI sed, a llow at least '11 in. e xtra
w id th in t he inside well open ing to tnkc
care of swelling and warping. Anothe r
method of ca ulking the well is s hown in
Fig. 3 1, which also d eta ils methods of fram-
in g the wcll in t he hull. The well is w edged
169
 to keep the edges of the boards in alignment.
Engine logs: It is impOl-tant that the tim-
b ers supporting the engine be substantial
and very seeLll'ely anchOl'ed. The usua l ar-
rangement is illustrated in Fi gs. 32 and 34,
, the timbers being cut on an angle to COI' -
CAN Bt IN.'.oT" Ll.f..D
FOR CURVED BOTTOMS
respond to the angle of t h e pl'OpellCl' shaft.
REINFORU ON fAelt The timbers arc notched and bolted to the
SID£:
hull frames, but un less the bolts a re put in
during construction it will be n ecessar y to
use lag SCI'CWS dl'iven in from the top. To
make the bed exceptionally rigid where
th ere is too much up-cu rve fore and aft for
lon g timbers. install 2 x 4s on each side to
S~AfT LOG cover several fram es. Of cOUl·se on ly g<ll-
vanizcd, bronze or bl·<lSS hardware shou ld
.- " - ~' -
be used . Long timbers are always desirable.
~
, ", ',; Insta lling shaft Jog and deadwood : The
deadwood or keel extension is assembled
as in the lower d etails of Fig. 34 , being used
on the sides of the pl"OpeUer shaft. Bolt
h eads must be countersunk on the bottom.
Making and installing a s haft log is quite
easy if done as in Figs. 33 and 34. Select a
piece of vertica l-grain pine at least 2% in.
thick, and saw through the middle as indi-

;' "
5t<Arf lOCo
AS.'.o[MSltD ALL BOLT N£ADS AND
Will< DEAD WOOD Nul.'. OVER WA,~"f.RS
AND COUNTER.'.oUNK

@ \
w ith a tempOl·ary block until it is screwed
in p lace, which counteracts the tendency of
the damp inside walls to warp inward. The
inner, vel·tical cleat has an ex tension which
seL,; down into tbe end of- the slot in t he
keel, making a watertight joint. See the
upper-left detail. T he hull frames al·e
notched into the we ll sides, 01· a dovetailed
joint can be made which prevents the ends
of the frames pulling out under stress.
Steel centerboards, properly galvanized ,
are superior to the wooden ones since they
do not \Val·p and at the same time sel·ve as
ballast. For small c,·uft, a one-piece mahog-
any or oak centerboard, weighted with
lead , is permissible. Weight is added in
some wooden boards by drilli ng holes and
inserting, or pouring in, lead "dowels." T o
hold the centerboard up, especially if steel,
a brass pin can be used, or a block and pul-
ley, with li ne and cleat. When a fairly high
well is required, and two boards are neces- -"': -::~~~
sary on a side, the joint should be doweled
170
cated by t he d otted lines. Th e n cu t a g1'Oove
in each hidi so that \\·h e n put together the
ho le wi ll be % in. larger in diame ter th'lIl
the p ro pe lle r shaft. to allow for clea rance.
A ssemble the t wo h a lves with case in wa-
te rproof g lu e. and th e n sa w away on a
d ia gonal e urve COITcspo ndin g to the thick -
n ess of the keel at the po inl o f ins ta lla tion .
The c.:om pleted job is shown in Fig. 34. In
thi s d el.l il the s ha ft log is assembled with
the de;:Hlwood . The lath)I' can a lso serve
as the lower exterior half <)f the sh'l ft log.
A h,u'dwood s trip is bo lt e d ,lIo ng the bot-
to m of the d eadwood. Me tal sh (lft logs,
plllThased from mal' ille hil n lw<l I'e dealers,
m tlk c the wor k very s imp le.
Huddcrs : Except for rac ing. t he si mple
rudd e r boa rd , hinged 10 th e tnlll som (l nd
fitt ed w it h a tiller. is a dequa te. The in-
board rudde r post m akes t he nea test as -
sembly. and r equ ir es a brass t ube rllnnin),!
through t he deck a nd into the kee L as ill
F ig. 35. Th e rudde r pos t s hou ld he 1;<11 -
vanii'.ed. and the rudd e l' can be ins talle d
in a s lot and l'ivct.ed. Wood e ll rudders, i f
ve r y w id e, s hould be rei nforced to pre -
ve n t. splitting und e r :5 t n :s:". Tillers in most
cn ses arc made to lift oIT. Edgcs of woode n
rudde rs s hou ld be b e ve le d .
La y ing the deck: De!.:ks ma y be cove red
with wate rp roof plywood, as in ligh t sa il-
bmlt s w h e r e b eams ilI'C p laced close lo -
gc th e,.. o r plank ed in cm ise rs. as sh own in
t he details in Fi g. 3D. If ply wood is L1 se d it
always s hould b e co vere d with canvas. Th e
laUel' is not so s lippe r y in we i going as a
s m ooth fi n ish wo uld b e. T he crown of th e
dec k is u sually 1 in. pe r fool of b eam w id th .
In ot.he r words. if th e bea m is 4 ft. the d eck TESTlf.I (o. 0[(. ... Sl AMS WIT .. I'ii\
should c urve upward 4 in. above th e s heel' I. ST~ "" C. "HOC.E 18
line. In insta lling the beams. it is advan-
ta geo us to bolt o r sc rew the e nds to the tops is thick and wid e e nough , it is S<lfe to n o tch
of th e fram es o r dbs. H the lauer a r c too f; lr for the b e;:lll1s, as ill Fig. 39 . H oweve r your
apart, p lHce beams bet.ween. s upported by bemns arc insta ll ed. they must be teste d for
short cleals, Fig. 37. Where the sheer pla nk warp with a slrai g hte dge. Fig . 38. il S une or

171
 t.wo might have warped out of line afte r
installation. In case of an open boat, such
as a clory, which you wish to d eck ovel',
all that is necessary is to remove the rub
l'aiL<;, and build as shown in the 10we1'-
center detail , Fig, 39. Lay canvas over
the planking, copper-tack down along
the sheer and covel' with the rub rail.
Arrangements of beams for a sailboat
differ somewhat fl'om those of a cruiser,
Figs. 42 and 43. Here are shown plywood
decking for the sloop and planking on
the cruiser. The plywood is cut, in this
case, in six panels of three pairs, joined
at the cent.cl"iine ~md transverse ly on
two of the beams. These joints will be
covered with canvas. Casein glue is ap-
plied to the tops of the beams before the
plywood is screwed down.
In decking over the cruiser, covering
boards are used around the gunwale".
It is necessary to set in a batten to which
the ends of the fore-and -aft straight
planks are screwed. This batten is set
in notches to lie flush with the beams.
Owing to the curve neal' the b ow it. is
necessary to make the covering board
in two pieces. with a diagonal joint.
Another al'l'angement of the deck
planking, known as the "nibbing in"
method , is shown in the top-l'ight detail,
Fig. 39. Each plank end must be fitted
as you go along, the notches being cut
at the time of fitting, since each strikes
the king plank at a slightly different
angle. In laying canvas over a deck, pro-
fessiona l boatbuilders have their own
methods. One is shown in t.he 10wel'-
right detail in Fig. 39. The canvas is
pulled as tightly as possible over the
whole deck and tacked at the gunwales.
Then the builder treads back and forth
@

172
nn Ihe pot·l ion over the cockpit. Th is m eth-
'Id takes oll l the last bit of s lack and s hapes
the canvas to the deck. Many buildcrs lay
Ihe cmlVas in wet paint. Ot hers soak it in
water first and wring out thorough ly. then
apply casein watcrproof glue Ie the wood
dcck. They c1rnw the dnmp canvns tightly
m·e.· t his and proceed with tacking.
Fuel a nd water tanks: InstallBl ion of
fuel or water tank s in eel·tain hu lls w ill
h ave to bc made b efore t he d eck is la id.
Fue l t:mks s hould be anchored secUI·ely to
the f:-aming. and s hould be equipped with
baffle pla tes. Fig. 4 1. F elt 01" leathcr strips
shou ld be p laced he tween t he me !;.ll tank
and wood s uppo.·ts. Cm·c m ust be taken to
have .111 connections pl·otected from in j ury "
in case cargo 01· equ ip men t slides about in a
h envy sea. Sec lhat nothing movable can
cOllie in con tnct with the gas line. Fresh-
water tanks sh ou ld b e pro tected ft-om the
sun. and o f a materia l that will not con-
t<llllinate the waleI'. ~Il JOINI) $ .~;::::q
COll millgs : A trim cock pit coaming adds ~IA"") W8Jl(!
10 ~PRI'oV 4~O
'(:==
I'
~MN nt IRUI·
. IS much to t he s martness of a boat as any III wu~ """~I~I
othe t· one fCi:t tul"e . Mahng;my is a favo ri te (,lut I IN~!Dt
JOIHll WI!H
materia l and when s team ed w ill bend C~UIH WAlLR-
PROOf uLU L
readily. USlIlilly there is a n inner frame of
the sa ille s h;lpe to which it is sCl·ewed, and
t he curved front portion joined at an angle.
S ee the det'lils in Figs. 42 and 43.
CHbin framin g: A cabin is really a h igh
coaming with a roof and pOi·t lights. T yp-
ic.. l designs fo]· s mall bonts are s hown in
Figs. 36. 40 and H. Specia l attention always
m ust be given to the joints of the cab in
h ·mlling. F igs. 44 to 50 inclus ive.
A typ ie<l l examp le o f good cabin f nllning
is illustrated in Fig. 44. J oin ts exposed to
rain and s pray shou ld be sealed with ma-
rine g lue bcrorc assembly, and uncxposed
joints wi th cascin watcl"J»·oof g lue. lnstnll

173
 squal'ed to a taper, the rest is easy with
drawshave and plan e, Fig. 53 . A square
mast is built up as s hown in Fig. 54 to give
a taper of about 2 in . in 24 ft. This type is
exceptiona lly strong, when assembled wit h
casei n glue, finishing nails and screws,
When screwing down a sail track, Fig. 51
shows one thing to avoid . Notc t h e curve
in the mast. After the lmck is sCl'ewed in
place it is likely to hold the mast to that
curve. The photo has becn purposely ex-
aggerated to einphasize this point. See that
the m<lst li es straight before screwing
down the sail trac k . For a light sailing

a panel of hard-

the roo f b e fore

the p l anking is
laid as this rein-
rol'c~s the struc-
tUre horizontally,
and makes a bet-
ter appea l'ance in-
side . Galvanize d
~ \"'GT
or bl'<lsS screws IN:'1~.U!\1' C 1'l
should be used in-
stead of nails, the
head s countersunk and covercd with putty .
Several joints are detailed in Figs, 47 to 50
inclu sive. A covering strip over a door,
Fig. 47 , keeps out moist ure and presents a
smooth appearance; Fig. 48 shows how to
build watertight window frames, while the
right-hand details, in Fig . 50, illustrate a
substantial cornel' pi ece for th e cahin. Ex-
tra-heavy beams with knees shou ld be in-
s tall ed flanking the mast, as in Fig. 45 , and
a sliding hatch cover can be made as in Fig.
50, the left-hand detail. Port and dead lights
should be abso lutely watertight, Fig. 49. dinghy. a jointed mast is permissible, made
!\last, boom and fittings: Selecting the as shown in Fig. 56. This can b e lifted out
stock is the import<lnt thing in making a and stowed in a small space. S evc rallypes
mas\. Spruce or vertical-grained pine is of mast fittings are illustrated in Fig, 57.
:, :~j s :.: ct.o ry , Either is purchased in the Most of these arc standard , and can be
squnre piece, and of COUl'se shou ld be free purchased ready-made. Spreaders (01' ex-
from any defects. If newly surfaced, paint tra-tall masts are illustrated in Fig. 55 . Fig,
it with linseed oil to prevent checking if 58 shows booms and the fitting of a tum
you do not intend to trim it at oncc. The button at the lowe r cnd of the sail track.
first step in shaping is to mark tapers on Puttying and painting: Putty should not
all f OU l ' sides. easily done with a chalk line be applied to raw wood because the latter
as in Fig. z2 , Begin the taper at the point abs01'bs the oi l, causing the putty to dry
whel'e the mast meets the d eck. After being out and crumble. Apply linseed oil to the
174
caulked seams with a seam brush, ns well
as in the countersinks for the screw heads, r- ,
<Inc! putty afterward. Cappel' bottom paint
is applied diJ'cctly to the raw wood be low
the wal.cdine. Do not give a priming coat
of oil, because it p revents the coppel' paint
from adhedng. Two or three coa ls are
adequat.e . Above the wat er line pri me with
linse ,· c\ o il with just enough wh ite lead to
give i t body. When dry , coat. with ma rine
paint. For planked decks, a s par va r n ish is
gCll c ra lly used. The mahogany l r;lnsom,
coami n g und rub rails arc \.reated likewise.
Registration: AU privately owned in- ..1
bO<\1'd motorboats, and outboard ,boats
more tha n 16 ft. long, must C<IITy tJnit.ed
Stales Coast Guard \'egisll'alion numbers
on both bows. A number will be assigne d
the boat after application has been made
on Form CG-lS12, copies of which may be
obtained from the nearest Coast Gum'd
District Office, For a new boat. a statement

GAlVANIUO
~ P REAOr.R

~ - -
--~
...
~-
-~~
~
~
:--
__ , ~
~~
-.....
..... .....::-
-c
N,
i/ ' WOOD ~ and two or more cowl ventilators for e ngine
' SPR(AO(R ~
f: and fuel tanks,
Inboards and outboards between 16 and
26 ft. must carry, in additiol'l to the above,
one hand , mouth or powc r-operated hal'll or
s;,A;,S
SLlLV£.

:, /
.'

:"
,
I whistle audible for at least one half mile.
Thel'e .we no federal requil'ements for
sailboats, as such, However, an auxiliary
engine of any kind puts the sailboat in the
motorboat class,

of specifications and bills for lumbe r , en-

gines, hardware, etc., must accompany the
application, The boat owner will receive
a "certificate of award of number,"
Inboard boats less than 16 ft. lo ng must
carry the rollowing equipment: combinl.l-
tion light, showing red to port and green to
starboard and visible at least one mile ; one
white light aft, visible at least two miles;
one life pl'eserver for each person aboard;
one approved nrc extingu isher; one flame
arrcstOr on each carburetor of the engine,
175
 BOAT BU I L D ER' S S H 0 RT CUTS
Gauge Marks Planking
Assembled fl'Olll scrap pieces of hard -
\\'ood. the simple marking gauge shown be-
low is especially handy in boatbuilding
~vhere the ends of bottom p lanks al'e cut
after they have beL'n screwed in p lace . The
gauge is made by screwing th ree blocks of
wood together, aft e r which <l pencil holder
is provided by driving t wo s taples into the
edge .of the upper block. Note that the bol-
tom of the g<lugc is a lilLie wider than the
top to allow for thc thickness of the penci l.
In lise, it is held a gains t the side of the boat
<lnd advanced .lIong the bottom planks, be-
ing careful to hold it vcrtically.

Baal Seams Are Calked Easily

If you have had difficu lty in finding a
tool for p rcs.... ing oakum into the scams of
a boat whe n calking it. try <l s ingic-b l"dc
food-chopping knife of the type shown
above. You will find the knife idc<ll for the
purpose, and the rocking motion that can
be imparted to the curved blade cl1,lblcs
you to press oakum firm ly into th e join t.

Allow For Swelling of Seams

Owners of wooden boats shou ld nol pack
calking too lightly in the se.. ms. When t he
wood swe lls, the screws may be pulled
loose <Jnd calise the boat to leak. If a nar-
row space is left between the calking and
th e wood to allow for swelling when the
boat is pu l in the water, it w ill remain dry
throughout the season.
~ Home-Made Compression Tool
Makes Tight Boat Seams
By compressing the wood along the edges
of boat planki ng befo re screwing it in
p lace, you can get exceptionally tight
seams. When t he compressed portions of
the planks get wet. they swe ll to make a
tight scam. A good tool for compressing th e
planks is made from a piece of hardwood
cut to the shape shown at left and fitted
with a screw eye to serve as t he compressol·.
After a groove has been compressed in the
p lank, the ed ge is p laned down fl ush with
t he bottom of the gl·ooye. The line of com-
p ression sh ou ld be centered on the p lank
edge to be most e ff ective.

"6
 PART 10

Seamanship·
tU«t S~ *~ '804t

177
 YIICHTING
I . I
ONE GOOD WAY to budget
individual costs to a mini-
mum and still enjoy all the thrills
of sailing is to [orm a yacht club.
Any group of friends with a
common interest in sailing can
pool talents, equipment and c8sh,
ilnd thereby gain all the advan-
tages of group action on the pur-
chase of additional gear, boats,
tools, shol'e pl"Operly for a club-
house sile and other inciclcntili
items. A clubhouse. grounds and
a pier come high on the list of re-
quirements . With C<lreiui plan-
ning, a clubhouse and u suitable
piC)' can be built by the club
members, thus confining the cash
oullay to that required fOl' good
materials. Every clubhouse should have
private !'Ooms for changing from ship to
shore clothes. a locker for each member
so thal he has space fol' storage of sails,
clothing and other small gear, and a fairly
complete set of tools for the common use of
all members for repair and maintenance.
No clubhouse !'cally " belongs" until it is
fitted out with a flagpole rigged complete
with yardarm so that the national ensign
and club pe nnants can be flown in correct
order on a ll occasions. Landscaping. tele-
phone, an oar rack and other minor details
of the layout usually are decided by a vote
of the club members . A slanting dock con-
structed at the water's edge is handy as
small sailing boats can be hauled up on it
178
between runs or fOI" mino!' re-
pairs. A small pier adds to the
completeness of the layout, pro-
vides for loading and discharge of
passengers and serves as a tem-
porary mooring for the boats
when readying sail, Fig. 1. In
some cases, the more rough-and -
ready sailors will prefer the
beaching dolly, Fig. 3. Using dis-
carded auto parts, this can be put
together to suit average individ-
ua l requirements at <.l vcry nom-
inal cost. Such a dolly is a must
where it is necessary to trans-
port small boats some distance to
a yard for storage or fo!' exten-
sive repai!·. In repair and main -
tenance of boats, and construc-
tion of additional equipment, special skills
of the members should be administered so
that each individual contributes an equal
share. With careful planning. clubs can
build their o\>/n boals at greatly reduced
costs by arranging a change-work schedule
which includes all members.
Sailing dinghies, o!' "dinks" as they aloe
often called, are the sm;:,l\est and simplest
o[ the common sailboats. Having only one
sail. they are easy to handle because there
is no complicated rigging unless, of course.
you add a spinnaker like the more dU!'ing
sailors in Fig. 2. And if members are hold-
ing costs to a minimum, then the club will
o\\;n mostly little boats of the Snipe class
with perhaps an occasional Lightning or
()N A BUDGET
COlllet, which arc large r, o r in
olhel' words, a lot more boat. But
the pleasure of sailing you r own
boat is not determined by the size
of t he craft 01' the nmo ull t of
motlcy you. as an i n dividua l
member of you r club. spend on
the spo rt . With skillfu l handling,
th e tiny li ttle boats of the Snipe
C ],ISS arc flashy performers ;.Ind ..
om:c you get t he fec i of sails in a
fair win d you'll und erstand why
seasoned yach tsmen \'cga rd this
p.wt icu lar s port so h ighl y,
If you arc a begi nner. you ' ll
need to take leng thy counsel
wi th an experienced membe r of
th e club before ventu r ing to hoist
sail alone, F ig. 5. T a ke'lIl instruc-
tal' w i th you , not o n ly on thl,;; (jest
lrip. but all several succeedi ng
t!'i ps. You must acquire absolute
con fid e n ce in t he bO;l1 <lnd in
yOlll' own ability 10 Iwndle it.
M;1ny beg inn ers have difllculty
overcoming the fcar of getting
. away f!"Om s hore, espccially if
Ih cl'c is a fairly stl'ong offs hore
brcezc, But a competent s<1 ilol'
wi ll s how you how to I'UIl out be -
fore th c wind. then t u rn , come
into the wind and tack back RCI'OSS
it to the harbor. F ig. 9. You w ill
be much impressed wit h Ihe e,lse
wi lh w hi ch he handles the latte r
Below le ft , 0 b e oching dolly il jUlt th e thing for lounching 1m all boall without the aid of 0 dock (fon e
Or wh e re they ore tronlpo,t e d lom e diltonc e for repoin . RighI, opproved manner of holding liIIer ond sh ee l

179
 If you're a begin-
ner at sailing, do
nol hoist the sail
alone. Have com-
pete nt soilor teoch
you the rudim en ts

I
If you drive your boat" hard, alway s keep on Ihe weath e r side
ond hold th e shee t reody for instonl trimming of Ihe sail

maneuvers; how. after running on the port lack

fOI' an interval (reach), he cases otT on the
sheets to luff sail and simultaneously puts the
, I-udder hard down to tack s h ip. The boom will
swin g to the opposite side to allow the sail to

\ catch the wind from the new quarlel', and be-

fore you know it youl'little boat is away on the
starboard tack. It's a neat tJ'ick just to watch,
if it's done by an old hand, but the real thrill
comes when you do it yourself for the first ·
time. Once you sec demonstrated how quick-
ly and smoothly t.he craft responds to t.he rud -
del" and the set of lht! sail, you get the idea that
with fair and steady w inds you can go any-
where there is water undel' yoU!' keel, and you
can come back just as easily to home ha rbor.
YOUI' sailol" friend also will show you how to
turn into the w ind and coast your little boat
smoothly up to the dock. To do this expertly
I you have to judge distance and wind strength
to a nicety, because a light boat loses way
quickly on being turned into the wind. It's a
good idea to practice the maneuver often in
both light and strong winds. Fig. 4 shows an
approved mannel" of holding the sheet and tiller
when sailing a small boat. It's easy and com -
forl<lble and you' re in <l position to slack off in -
stillltly on the sheet j[ the boat hee ls (tips) too
sharply to an unexpected gust. And this brings
up onc of the first principles in sailing a small
boat. Always hold the sheet in yOUl" hand . Nev -
er snub it, 01' fasten to n cleat . fOl" even when
the weath er is fair and the wind light, some un -
looked-fol" emergency may make it necessary
to trim sail quickly to I'elease wind pressure.
Keep the sheet free. It's a mle in sma ll boats.
When sailing, except perhaps when everything
is going smoothly <lS in Fig. 8, it's regular prac-
tice to sit on the weather side of the boat, that
is, the side hom which the wind is coming, Fig.
6, and change from starboard side to port side
180
 \
\

Abo ye le ft, quick wotk w ith till e . Clno ,h .... ' 1I'''Cllly will ovoid heeling Clnd (opsiriI'9. bul if you do go oY e.,
the bool will nol sink unle" th e hull is badl y domoged. Righi, all a yochhman olks for is smooth soiling

and back again wht'!n you're bC<lt in g to wind -

ward on repeated tacks. If th e wind turns s ud-
denly g us ty o r if a squa ll races clown on you
;mel the bont begins to heel alolnllingly, case ofT
r W'NO

on the s h ee t :md the tille]' simultaneously. Or.

if it looks like an emergency, merely let go of ®
evcl·ything. The sa il wilJ swing out and t he boat ©CATCHfS
WIND
will come up into the wind and righ t herself. SAil
H you ;1I'C quick. you usua ll y C<l1l avoid capsiz- ON OPPOSITE
ing. even w he n hit by a severe gus t 0\' wind
sloe
squal l. The s tudent sa ilor need not unduly fear
capsizin~. fat· sma ll siJilboats do not sink read -
ily when upset, Fig. 7. Unless th e hull is dam-
WIND f . /. . . )

aj:{cd by co llision 01' other accident, it will sup- PORT .-,d

port yoU!' we ight until a t'cscue p;:lI'ly comes
TACK
,,i f
a longside and picks you up. ,,
Whcn working back to w indward , that is,
"' Sf "aBO .... RD
tac k ing. many beg inn ers lend to sai l too close --... TACK
to the wind on the port and shlrboa rd lacks.
This probably is due partly to the amateur's de- '-- )
sire to reach h ome pod. but mos tly to the IUlt -
ural tendency of small saili ng cra ft to come up
~"
into the wind when ru nning the reach between " ,
lacks. To get the full drive of the sfli l :md to "
stcady t he boat. it's generally considered good
pt'acticc to hold her ofT, even where you must PORT /
-' --
shorten the I'ea ch between port and s tarboard
tncks. I n th is. good sailo rs rel y on their jud g-
lA,ClC
y
ment flnd gauge t h e procedure by the perform- /,/
ance of the boat under vary ing condit ions. " _ _ START
Many sa ilin g practices 2pply on ly loosely to the
handling of the very small boats, pllrticula d y
WINO
aftel' one ~ai n s experience and comes to know DOWN
h is ow n boa t wel l.
Aftcr you h<Jve mastered ordilHl1·y s<lil ing
techniques undcr the tutelage of your ins truc -
tor and have gu incd confidence in yourse lf.
your boat and your abilitv to take he r out in anv SAILING ON
rC<1sotl<1 bly good sailing \~'cat her. you' re cl i g ibl~ PORT TACK
in most unofficia l slni;l ll clu bs to wcar the s nappy
TACKING
bl uc-and-go ld yachting cap and club emblem .

181
Make Your Rowboat S~
BYmethods
USING the ordinary "making ready"
of the good boatman. a worn
and lea ky Rat -bottom boat. or ;'sh;upic" as
it is sometimes called, can be made ship-
s hape in a few hours' time. In general. the
methods used will apply to any type of boat.
flat. round Or V -bottom. but just what you
do depends pl'imal'i!y onlhe age and cond i-
tion of the craft. A boat thut is taken from
the waler and stored during each off season
probably will requi re vcry litHe ('cpai!- from
year to yeal" bul work boaL'i used by b'ap -
pel's. huntcl's and others need frequent and
thorough check-ups. Flat-bottom boats
that are merely tied up when not in use
b ecome watedogged. leaky and hard to
handle. In time. ei the r cll'Y or wet 1'0\ or
bot h will w ea ke n the boat so that it is struc -
turally unsafe.
H the condit ion of the boat indicates only
the normal amount of wear and the paint is
chalky . but not peeli ng or scali ng to the bare
wood at any point. then sandpapering and
painting are all tha t is necess,wy to "ecomli-
!ion it. However, scaling paint. damaged
oal"iock mounts 01" decks flllci t he presence
of dry I'ot in the bottom planks or the stem
call fot" complete repair and refinishing. If
this must be done. pl;Icl: the boat on s turd y
sa\\" horses, as in Fig. 1.11nd remove the paint
ei ther by softening the film w ith a blow-
torch , as in Figs. 2 ilnd 4, or by use of a paint
remove!'. With eithcl' method. usc II sC!"apel'
to remove all the loosened paint down to
the bare wood. Check the side and bottom
planks along the c hin e for dry ,'ot by forcing

182
Defects due to rough usoge and neglect can make
a flat-boNom rowboat unseaworthy after only a
few seasons . Here's the way a good boatman
would proceed to fit out a boat as good a s new

a knife bliJde into the wood. If any of the

planks a rc so ft they should be re placed.
Ofte n fI new stem w ill be required bee.lUse
of dry rot o r wct rot due to lack o f ventila -
tion under the deck. Two co mmon methods
of making a stcm for a flat-bottom rowboat
arc shown in Fig. 3, details A. B ilnd C. The
one- piecc stcm, detai ls A and B. made from
selected oa k. is the best a lthough it is ma rc
difficult to Ill<lke. The ends of the side
plan ks arc fitted into r'a bbets cut into the
stem block Ht the correct angle. detail B.
Then the projecting portion of t he block
is shaped to fo r'm a eulwatc r. This elln be
strai ght vc!'ticn ll y or at an angle as desired .
In the bui lt -up s tem , detail C. 'the rabbct
is formed by joining two beveled b loc ks of
difTe rent widths. The bl ocks are jo ined
with henvy J:(a lvimized sc rc\vs and marine
glue. alth ough waterproof cab inet glue olso
C' 1I1 be used . Use galvcmizcd screws 01' bolts
wherever' it is necessary to employ metal
fa s te ners. In replacing any parts. select OALY. SCIIfWS
sound, seasoned stock and be sure to dupli- 10"'10 l r u " . ,
calc the dimensions of the old part in a ll
d etails in the new one.
Prepare the wood for the priming coat of
p;:lint w it h .1 thor'ough sc raping and sand -
ing. Rem.! w the ca lking in the bo ttom
p lanks, F ig. 5, and replace the keel. detail
D . F ig. 3. If necessary to replace ,my bot-
tom planks. it is importan t that the grain
run the same o n all pieccs, detail D. Fig. 6.
Re pair 0 1' re place the decks and o'lrlock
mounts and a lso the rub rails, if n ecessary,
Fig. 6, det..,i1s A to D inclusive. Be sure that
183
When refinishing. pay special attention to the in- Recalking periodically will anure a tight, dry
side of the boat. Damaged paint should be loosened boo' ond add greatly to 'he life of boltom
with 0 blowtorch and '(roped to e:o: pose bore wood planking. Important Ihing is 10 colk joints uniformly

the wood is thoroughly dry before applying

the first priming coat. In priming a boat.
u!'iually it is be!'it to apply two or three thin
priming coats with long intervals of drying
between. Brush out the priming coats well
to flSSUI·e uniform coverage, and be espe-
cially pal·ticular to work the primer into all
exposed end grain. Use a primer with a
white-Ieaa base. Aftel' priming, most boat
refinishers go over the entire surface and
fill all dents. nail holes and slight nicks
either with a filler made from white-lead
paste 01· a commercial scam scaler made
for boat work. Then the surface is carefully
sanded in preparation for the application
of the finishing coats of full -bodied paint.
The last priming coat must be thoroughly
dry before applying the first fmishing coat.
When painting the bottom. 01· any part
where paint must be brought up to nn edge.
draw the loaded bl"Ush off the edge. not
against it. I n this way you will avoid drips
and sags in the paint film which result from
careless application. The first finishing
coat should be thinned with a reducer to
an easy brushing consistency . The second
finishing coat can be slightly heavier. per-
haps. but avoid a heavy application. Two
finish coats over a three-coat primer should
be sufficient to produce a smooth . durable
finish. If desired. a coppe r bottom paint
can be applied instead of the lead-and-oil
priming coat. The copper-base paint may
be applied only to the bottom boards. or
can be brought up thc sides to the load
water linc. In this casco the !';ides al·e primed
and painted with a lead-and- oil paint from
the water line to the shecr line.

'"
I
~I AVE you e ve r no-
t iced some fis hc l'ln:lIl
frui t lessly crilnki ng h is
o utboa rd moto r with an
occasiona l ":"pi t a n d spu t-
t l! I"" the o n ly rewa rd fol'
his labo r ? S u ch h a l' d
s tnrting generally can be
avoided if r Oll usc th e
recommended g a s -a n d-
oil m i x tu n~ a nd if th e mo-
tor is prope rly serviced
fro m t im e to l ime to k eep .'~
it in t ip -top condi tion .
Ignitjon: I-loused un d e l"
t he ' fly w hee l. Fig. 13, lhe
ignition sys te m of a mod -
e m o utb o il ]'(1 m olo l' is
s urprising ly de p e nda ble, but i t does re -
quire atte ntio n. A t least on ce each season
the fly whee l should be re m oved und the (0 REMOVING NUT
elllil'c magneto clean ed and adju s ted . On THAT TIGHTENS
FLYWHEEl
many motors the n u t that t ighte ns the fly -
w hee l a lso ser ves as iI fl ywh eel pulJer.
Fig. 1. A sho ulde r on th e nu t con lacLs the
starting -rope plate, and a ft e r the nu t is
loosened , a tUnl or t wo forces the Oywheel
from the ta pc red end of the cl·a nk shaft. All
elec trica l connection s s hould b e ch eck cd
for t igh tn ess. A loose cond e n ser sh ould b e
t igh tened . Fig . 2. as t his m ay ca use hard
s ta l·l ing. Ign ition poinl>; s hould be filced
true on an oilsto ne and set 10 facto r y spec-
ifica tions. In the absence of s u ch infol'ln a-
tio n. ad j us t th e point s to op e n .018 to .020
in., Fig . 3. L ubrica t ion consis l ;; of a t iny
b it of light oil applied with
a toothpic k 10 the pin th al
su pports the movable con-
tin.:l poi n t, a nd j ust a touc h

-. ~

185
 of hard grease applied to the cam which
is an integral part of the crankshaft. If .;
starting has been difficult, it is a good idea
to take the flywheel to an authorized out-
board-motor service shop and have the
magnet recharged.
After several seasons of usc, constant
flexing of the high-tension wires, .as a re-
sult of advancing and retarding the spark,
may cause insulation cracks which lead to
loss of spark. If available, new wires should be in-
stalled as in Fig. 4. In soldering electrical connec-
tions always use non- corrosive flux-never acid
flux! When test ing the spark of an .outboard mag-
neto it is important that the ignition. wires be held
not more than % in. from some met<ll part of the
motor to which the spark may jump. Cranking ~e
magneto with the wires hanging in space invites a
breakdown in the insulation of the coil.
Carburetors: Sometimes the shellac coating on
cork floats gradually deteriorates, allowing fine
particles to loosen and clog the carburetor. Then
the float also loses its propel' buoyancy and cannot
control the gas flow . The permanent cure for this
condition is to remove the float and allow it to dry
thoroughly. After this, any loose particl~should
be sanded off and the entire float given two thin
coats of shellac, Fig. 6. Also, it is not unusual to
find floats disconnected from the arm, with the re-
sult that the carburetor shuts off all fue l, and oper-
ation becomes impossible. As this type of carbure-
tor has a metal float, the cure is to solder the float
back onto the arm, Fig. 7. Any metal float that has
a leak should be pierced with a needle opposite the
leak, so that all the liquid and fumes can be blown
out. Then the hole and original leak should be
soldered, using as little solder as possible to avoid
reducing the buoyancy of the unit.
Compression: Although everyone realizes the
importance of compression in the combustion cham-
bers, t.he necessity of compression in the crankcase
of a two-cycle outboard motor often is overlooked.
Without this compression, the fue l charge is not
delivered effectively to the cylinders. A simple
check for crankcase compression is to l'emove all
the spark plugs and then crank the motor. You
should be able to feel very slight compression in the
crankcase and to hear a defmite "plopping" sound .

'"
 Leaky gaskets, loose bearings or shaft glands in some
motors can totally destroy crankcase compression.
New gaskets should be installed, or if these are unavailable,
sometimes the old ones can be made compression tight by
using a high grade gasket cement as in Fig, 5,
Carbon: One of the most essential services is removing
carbon from the exhaust system, Fig, 8. As one cannot build
a good hot fire in a furnace that is clogged with ashes, so
also is it impossible to get good operation from a motor that
is clogged up with carbon. It is not difficult to remove the
exhaust manifold and scrape the exhaust ports. Some even
go a step further and streamline the passages by polishing
the surfaces in the exhaust opening as well as in the intake
openings. In streamlining the gas passages be sure that the
edge of a gasket does not project into a passage and cause
turbulence, thereby restricting the flow. Frequently a hand
scraper such as is used for fitting bearings pl"Oves useful in
scraping the edge of port or piston for perfcct alignment.
Natura lly, care must be taken to see that the motor is not
operated with any metal particles left in the cylinder.
Pistons: Contrary to popular opinion, the pistons and
rings in an outboard motor do not need to be tight in the
sense that they butt closely at the ends or fit very snugly
in the grooves. An end gap of .004 to .005 in. for each inch of
piston diametcr genel'ally will prove satisfactory, and vel'-
tical play in the grooves of as much as .004 or .006 in., Fig:. 9,
will do no harm provided the rings are not warped and the
ring grooves are not rough, Lapping piston rings to remove
high spots is done on a piece of plate glass on which is held
a sheet of fine emery cloth. The ring is pressed uniformly
against the cloth by a small block of wood padded with felt
as in Fig. 10. The felt assures uniform pressure on the ring
PROPElLER
NC' and keeps the block from slipping. Working the ring back
and forth over the fine emel'y in a. ,figure-eight pattern will
remove any high spots. Obviously this operation should be
@ ARRANGEMENT OF done only to the amount l'equircd to get a true surface.
PARTS ON TYPICAL Prior to removing any part from a motor, it is well to
OUTBOARD MOTOR mark the part on an unfinished surface so that there w ill
18'
 Connecting rods: Fitting connecting rods
is something that the mechanically inclined
owner can do himself, and when there is
unusual clatter in a motol' it may suggest
that the bearings should be tightened. Rod
adjustment can be done by facing the bear-
ing halves as seen in Fig. 14. Too tight a fit
must be avoided. While no noticeable play
should be present in the rod w hen properly
fitted, still there must be absolutely no
drag, and the !'od must fall freely of its own
weight when checked on the lip of the fin-
ger as in Fig. 15. One thing that 'certainly
will damage a motor results when the lock
ring at the end of the wrist pin works loose.
Continued operation afte l' this has devel-
oped will be certain to ruin the piston and
cylinder, Consequently, when working on
any r.lOtor, it is most important to see that
the ring, Fig. 16, is securely snapped into
position. When operating a motor that has
an unusual noise it should be checked im-
mediately or it may be damaged beyond
repair. If your outboard develops a sing-

be no question about returning it

to its originallocation. As indicat-
ed in Fig. 12, this is especially true
when removing connecting-rod
bearings which should be marked
lightly with a file or sharp center-
punch before being taken from the
shaft.
Should it be necessary to install
new pistons, be Slll'e they ha ve
proper clearance, Fig. 11. Since
fitting a piston too tight can cause serious
tl"Ouble, installalion of new pistons should
be left to outboard mechanics. While in
automotive scrvice a "rule-of-thumb" way
of checking pistons is to figure on .001 in.
of clearance for each inch of piston diam-
eter, the average clearance for outboard
work will be more nearly .0015 in. for each
inch of piston diameter. Finally, after the
l'ings and pistons have been fitted, the
owner who wants peak performance fol-
lows the example of outboal·d racing driv-
ers and laps in the pistons and l'ings with a
creamy paste consisting of a soft abrasive
window-clNllling powder and light engine ing sound, by all me3ns check the lubricant
oil. This paste is dripped in through the in the lower housing or you may soon have
port while the motor is being cranked with a set of junk gears.
power applied generally by a heavy-duty Propeller: And while on the subject of
e lectric drill or a lathe, continuing to run servicing the lower end of the motor, it
the motor in this 'way until all surfaces sometimes happens that forcing the pro-
have a fine finish and there is no drag any- peller nut on too tightly injures the threads
where. Then, the entire molor is disman- on the propeller shaft, Fig. 11. When this
tled, after which all traces of the abrasive has happened, it may be possible to clean
are washed out thoroughly with gasoline. them up a bit by using a three-corner file.
188
HOW TO MEND TORN SAILS

Leather palm with metal thimble pratods sailmake r's

hand as needle is drivon thraugh soil and patch . Pres -
sure with loft thumb "brooks" needle into tho door

EXPERIENCED sailors avoid the risk

of be ing caught with a torn sail aloft
by keeping sailcloth always in good re-
pair. A shol,t tear takes the drive out of
a sail and a bad tear, which usually starts
with a small rip in the canvas may leave
your boat wild a long way from help or
the home port. Mending sai l will come
easy to the amateUl' yachtsman after he
leams the tricks of handling a sailmak-
er's needle and how and where to use the
flat and herringbone slitches employed
by the professional sailmakcl'. In ventory
How a potch is sowed ave. a straight-line tear similar
of a sailmakel"s "ditty bag" will show to ana at loft . Sewing the patch to the CanVaS is the
that it cont.1ins one 01' more sailmakcl"s fint stop in making the repair. Edges are tu cked under
needles. a "palm thimble" or palm. as it
is called, a shurp knife, a ball of twine
(it is never called thread) and a lump
of sailmakel"s wax. In the sa il maker's
loft. the wax is refened to as "compo-
sition." Allihese items arc available hom
marine-supply dealers at a nominal cost.
The palm is made fl"Om solt leather and
fits in the palm of the right hand as in
Fig. 1. An inden ted metal platc sewed
into the leather pa lm serves as a "thim-
ble" for forcing.the hcavy needle through
the cloth. The pl"Ocedme pictured in Figs.
1, 2 and 3 s hows how to apply a patch to
a straight-line tear, using the flat stitch,
With th e pCllch in place, the canvas is re vened
C1nd Ihe sail is sew e d 10 th e patch. At e nds of
the tear, doth is cut diagonall y and tucked undor

189
Patch 01 the tight tepoits on l-shop ed tip .imilor
to one shown ot th e left. Procedu,e ;s Ihe lome 01
Ihol employed in repairin g the stro;ghl-line le ar
also called the round s titch. Note the posi -
tio n of the left hand in Fig . 1. The cloth is
grasped between thc thum b ;md the left
forc ;.mel middle fi.ng ers. As th e n eed le
passes thl'ou gh t he cloth in making the
s titch. it touches t he m iddle fi nger a nd si -
multaneously the thumb presses the doth
d own , causing the point of the needle to
emerge 0 1' " break ." This finge l' aclion p ro -
duces s titc hes of a un iform leng th <Ind. a l-
thou gh the procedure re quires consider-.
able s kill, it can be mastered wit h prac tice.
F ig. 2 s hows a patch sewed ove \' a s ho rt
straigh t-li ne tear li ke that sh own at the
left in the photo . First. the patch is sewed
to the sa il with the edges tucked li nder,
Fig. 2. Then the sail is sewed to the patch.
F ig. 3. D i;lgona l cuts are made at eac h end
of the te,H' and the edges of the sailcloth
arc tucked under as the sewing proceeds.
In a ll ph otos s h owing the stitches. bl ack
twine was used fol' PUI'poses of clarity. In
actual practi ce. w hite twine is used a lmos t
e xclusively. Figs. 1, 2 and 3 do n ot s how all
the moveme nts in completing n stitch . nOI'
do th ey s how the natural position of the
hands in actual practice . As an example.
the fingers of the r ight hane\. Fig, 1. a l'c
s hown much hi gher than they wo uld be in
n orm:d procedure. This hns been d one in
ol'der to s h ow clearly the posi tion o f the
needl e. Afte r th e needle has been pushed
th l'Ough b y the pa lm , it is g ra s ped fi rmly
by th e thumb a nd forefinger of the right
h a nd and pu ll ed through to tigh ten t he
twine. In mending sail. the twine is never
tugged at the completion of the seri es of
s titch es. It is m ere ly pulled tau t and to H
ligh t tension. The twine is never knotted .
a t ei the,' the heginning or finis h ends. I n
a ll patching. the edges of the pat ch . as we ll
as the tOI'll ed ges of the sail cove red by the
can V;lS patch, al'e tucked unde r to preven t
fra yin g of the cloth. Ordinarily, the patch
190
Minor te o,s. both $I,oighl ond l -s hop e d. o'e mer. d-
e d w;lh he rringbon e 11;lch Ij~ e Ihot s hown ab ove. No
pot,h i~ use d. He rringbone .titch is se lf-Ioc~ing
is cut from mnh,'rial of the same w e ight as
that of the sa il and it is cut to a width that
wi ll e xtend it at least 3 in . on each s ide of
the teal' before tucki ng . Sailmakers usc
sevel'al me thods of locn tin g the patch co r-
rectly over the tear. A s ho rt tear alTers
li ttle difficulty but a long re nt o r on e that
is L-shaped requires more care. F ig. 4. It'!>
important to make s Ul'e that the patch ex -
tends an equal d istance beyond the limits
o f the tear <It both ends. Abo ut 3 to 4 in.
is a good a vera ge. Long p<l tches can be
tacked te mporaril y to thc sni l with severa l
stitches at inlerv,ds ;l lon g the length. Old
sa il makers frowned on t h is practice. how -
ever, as they found th e l'e is ~ poss ib ility
of a patch applied in t h is way causing un-
equa l tensions in a large sail. Perhaps the
best p ractice in applying fail'iy lal'ge
patches is to s pl'end the sail on a flat SUI'-
fflce , smooth flll the wrinkles out of the
canvas, th en mark the IOCClt ion of the patch
on the cloth . The marks on thc sa il make
it easy to locate the patch as the sewing
proceeds. Sailmak crs lIs ualty s tart lhe
first s titch abou t h alfwny along the length
of the patch, The in ili;:ti st itch goes d own
thl'ough t he sa il and patch and back up
and the twine is pull cd t hrough until only
about 3 01' 4 in. of the end rcmain. This
free end is then fo ld ed under the tuck
w here it is locked in place by subsequent
stitches. At t he fini sh end o f the stitch, the
tw ine is carr ied bn ck under seve"al loops
and cut ofT.
The herringbone s titch. Figs. 5 to 8 in-
clus ive. is used in repa iring s nags, sma ll
rips and teal's. both s t rnight-line and L-
s haped , and also fo r mending the tears th at
develop around grommets. Fig. 7. It is self-
locking and exce pt io nally flat and. wh en
carefully made by a s k illed workman. it
results in a nea t and pe rmanent repair.
Figs. 5 and 6 show th e s tart and end of the
The comple!ed h e rringbone Uilch wilh Ih e fini sh The herri ... g bo ... e sli tch ar~o is used 10 repair tears
e nd oboul 10 be cut off. Some soilmakeu relurn th e ground grommeU. In mc:k i" g I.... re pair, on e lo op of
tw in e Ihrough several loops befor e culling Ihe e ... d each s tilch passes around ,he grommet ring oS shown

stitch and Fig. 8 details the procedure

quite clearly. Note in Fig. 8 that the
dark-slwdcd portio ns of thc twine are
on top of the doth while the lighter
portions are undemeath. With this in
mind, it is easy to fo How the course
of the needle an d twine -a bove and
below the doth. The stitch is' started
as in Fig. 8 by fot'cing the needle
t hrough the doth, then back up and
through to the underside again. Next.
the twine is carried to a point just
about opposite t he end of the teal' and
about ~\J in, to one s ide of it. Then the
twine is brought up through and aet'OSS
to an equal dista nce on the opposite
side of the leal' \vhere it is passed again
t hrough the cloth and brought up
th rough the tear. F rom h ere it is taken
over t he firs t loop and down th rough
the tear. This completes the first ind ivid - loops and then cut the twine j ust back of
ua l stitch . The trick in making a smooth, the last loop. In repairing the cloth around
neat repair without bulges or wrinkles is grommets, one loop of the stitch passes
simply to maink"lin an even tension on the around the grommet ring, F ig. 7. This type
twine as the individual stitches are made. of grommet repair cannot be considet·ed
A common method of ending the stitch is permanent, although it will last throughout
to cu t the twine as in Fig. G about 'h in. a full season unless the sail IS old and weak -
abo ve the doth . Another acceptable me th- ened by weathering. Holding the sai l on the
od is to pass the needle through sevet·al lap permits free l eft~ha n d movement.

UNION
Large Fuel-Settling Bowl Made From Fruit Jar
Solves Problem of Water in ,Gasoline Line
For a boat where water in the gasoline is a problem ilnd the
sm<Jll sediment bo\v! requires constant attention, an efficient
settling bowl of large r capacity can be made from a quart-s ize
fruit jat·, Obtain a jar with a screw -type metal cap and two
pieces of coppel" tubing, one lon g enough for t h e inta ke and a
shorter piece for the ou tlet. Solder the tubing to a metal disk as
indicated. and cover the outlet tube with fine copper gauGe to
filter foreign matter lhat may not settle in the tank . MOllnt the
jar in i:t convenient position in the fuel line.
191
 115 Booklets filled with Money and Time-Saving Helps

Little Lihrorq of UteFu/lNfORMATION

Here at amazingly low cost is the practical help and information
you han:! :l1\\'(I),s W!lIlicd. Articles in prev ious issues of l'opuhr
A'lccbnics have been cbssificd according to subject and urc now
[lmilable in these h:mdy reprint booklets. Check Titles wanted clip
:til Hod mail today. • R«~nt lal~" '

WORKSHOP EQUIPMENT AU'aetivo " ..e .. . ", PlaY'(>(I"o.-:I: ••

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SHARPENING _ USING TOOLS O","""·,,b.
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