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Introduction:
This
is
a
guide
to
tearing
down
and
rebuilding
a
Fox
Racing
Shox
DHX
3/4/5
Coil
shock.
It
shows
the
user
how
to:
- - - - - - - - Dismantle
the
shock
Clean
internal
parts
Disassemble
the
Propedal
valve
and
spring
Disassemble
the
Rebound
assembly
(see
disclaimer)
Replace
internal
o-rings
Replace
main
shaft
seal
o-ring
Replace
oil
Reassembly
of
the
shock
unit
Note:
Disclaimer:
Fox
Racing
Shox
does
not
endorse
this
guide!
By
proceeding
with
this
guide,
the
instant
you
open
your
shock,
you
voluntarily
and
knowingly
forfeit
any
warranty
that
came
with
the
shock.
Rebound
Disassembly
requires
the
use
of
a
propane
torch
to
soften
loctite
used
to
secure
rebound
adjuster
eyelet
to
shock
shaft.
Soften
of
the
loctite
is
required
to
remove
the
eyelet.
BE
EXTREMELY
CAREFUL
WHEN
HEATING
THE
EYELET;
ONLY
HEAT
GENTLY
UNTIL
IT
IS
HOT
TO
TOUCH.
PROLONGED
HEATING
WILL
CAUSE
DAMAGE
TO
EYELET
AND
SHAFT
ASSEMBLY.
Do
not
proceed
with
these
procedures
if
you
are
not
mechanically
inclined!
If
you
have
a
tendency
to
round/strip
every
screw
you
touch,
put
the
tools
down
NOW!
Any
damage
you
cause
to
your
shock
due
to
your
own
mistakes
is
YOUR
FAULT.
Do
not
expect
any
sympathy
from
me,
or
any
sympathy
from
Fox
(or
warranty).
YOU
have
to
pay
to
have
the
unit
fixed.
This
guide
was
devised
with
care,
with
information
gained
from
a
number
of
sources.
This
procedure
works
if
carried
out
CAREFULLY
and
with
PATIENCE.
I
AM
NOT
RESPONSIBLE
FOR
ANY
DAMAGE
YOU
CAUSE
TO
YOUR
SHOCK,
BIKE,
PERSONA
OR
SURROUNDS,
USE
COMMON
SENSE
AND
TAKE
THE
FIRST
FEW
RIDES
EASY,
TO
ENSURE
YOU
HAVE
CORRECTLY
REPAIRED
THE
SHOCK.
WARNING!
READ
ALL
Instructions
twice
before
you
commence
with
the
rebuild,
and
ensure
you
understand
its
procedures
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Preliminaries
Tool
list:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Spanners Long
Nose
Snap
ring
pliers Small
block
of
wood
(to
create
makeshift
shaft
clamp) Propane
torch Loctite
thread
lock
Wooden
vice
Soft
jaw
vice
Long
nose
pliers
O-ring
/
Dental
picks
(for
removal
of
o-rings)
Clean
rags
Clean
work
bench
Oil
drip
Pan
Safety
glasses
Small
Breaker
Bar
11mm
Drill
bit
Parts
list:
- Replacement
o-rings,
the
best
way
to
get
these
is
to
take
the
removed
o-rings
to
a
local
0-ring
supplier
and
get
them
sized
up
properly
for
replacement
ones,
I
also
recommend
you
buy
a
good
amount
of
each,
its
always
good
to
have
spares
for
next
time,
label
them
and
put
them
in
a
compartment
container
- Fork/shock
oil.
Ensure
you
use
a
high
quality,
fully
synthetic
oil.
I
use
10W
Castrol
Fully
synthetic
fork
fluid.
The
DHX
comes
stock
with
10W
Fox
Fluid
(rebadged
Silkolene
pro
RSF
10)
If
you
wish
to
use
a
different
weight
oil,
this
sight
has
a
lot
of
useful
info
on
shock
oil;
http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikesuspension.htm-
Further
Information:
Here
is
a
list
of
websites
that
have
a
lot
of
useful
information
on
rear
shocks,
for
anyone
who
is
interested
in
learning
more
about
their
rear
shocks.
Information
on
EVERYTHING
regarding
suspension,
explaining
different
types
of
damper
systems,
set
up
info
on
a
range
of
shocks
etc;
these
sites
are
well
worth
reading
through!
:
http://www.krankin.co.nz/_sgt/m6m9_1.htm
http://users.actrix.co.nz/dougal.ellen/setup.html
http://users.actrix.co.nz/dougal.ellen/tuning.html
Some
useful
info
on
how
to
mod
shim
stacks,
for
those
who
are
interested
in
modifying
their
shim:
stacks,
(undertake
this
at
your
own
risk!)
http://www.deycore.com/tuning_tips.htm
Website
with
lots
of
info
regarding
things
like
oil
weights
etc:
http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikesuspension.htm
Righto,
if
you
feel
confident,
and
have
read
this
guide
at
least
twice
(yes
that
was
an
instruction!),
clean
your
work
area,
gather
your
tools,
and
lets
begin!
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1.
Firstly, you will need to remove shock from your bike; it will be different on every bike, so if you dont know how to remove your shock, STOP NOW!
2.
After you have removed the shock from the bike, place on your work bench, and give it a good wipe over with a clean cloth, to remove dust and dirt
3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Next remove you spring, and in my case, my shock boot Back off all adjustments (Least Propedal, Bottom Out and Rebound) DEFLATE THE BOOST VALVE! Give the shock body a good clean, you dont need any dirt or debriss getting inside the shock Clamp the shock body in a wooden vice
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8. 9.
Loosen the two grub screws on the bottom out adjuster with a hex key Remove the adjuster, and set it aside
10. Using either a spanner or wrench, loosen the grey cap 11. After the threads have been disengaged, pull the assembly out, and set it aside
12. You can now see the IFP (Internal Floating Piston) and the bleed screw in the middle
13. Use a measuring device and measure the depth of the IFP, The depth will be different for different stroke lengths and eye to eye measurements
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14. Depress the shaft all the way down 15. Remove the bleed screw from the centre of the IFP with a hex key
16. Pull the bleed screw out, and set it aside in a safe place 17. Using long needle nosed pliers, pull the IFP out of the Piggyback Chamber
18. Remove the IFP 19. Place the IFP aside, and pull the shaft out to full extension
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20. Wrap an old tube around the shaft, this will prevent damage to the shaft should you slip with the spanner 21. Using a spanner or wrench, undo the shaft cap, it may be tight, keep applying even pressure and it will undo
22. After its loosened, use your hand to unthread the shaft 23. Pull the shaft and piston assembly out of the shock body
25. Drain the oil from the Piggyback and main chamber into an oil pan, wipe the body with a clean cloth and set the body aside
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26. Clamp the shaft eyelet reducers in a soft jaw vice, or use blocks of wood as shown in the first picture, this will prevent damage to the reducers 27. Use a small spanner and undo the black piston bolt
28. Remove the piston and shim assembly, be careful not to lose or muck up the shim stack
29. Lift off the black seal housing, being careful not to knock the rebound needle in the centre of the shaft
30. Place the seal housing on your work bench, be careful not to scratch the orange bushing
31. You can now access the yellow dust seal and black main shaft o-ring between the yellow dust wiper and orange bushing 32. If you shock has had sufficient use there will probably be dirt and crud in the yellow dust seal, wipe it clean
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33. Using a pin or dental pick, stab the black o-ring and pry it out, being careful not to scratch the yellow dust seal or orange bushing 34. Label the o-ring so you know which one it is and set it aside for now
35. Using you pick, remove the housing o-ring 36. Label the housing o-ring, and put it aside
37. Using your pick, remove the IFP o-ring 38. Label the IFP o-ring and set it aside
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STEP 7: Removing Bottom Out assembly o-rings and cleaning shock internals
39. Using your pick, remove the bottom out plunger o-ring, label and set aside the o-ring 40. Using your pick, remove the Bottom out housing o-ring, label and set aside the o-ring
41. The Bottom out assembly with its o-rings 42. Using a clean cloth, wipe out the main shaft chamber
43. Using a clean cloth, wipe out the piggyback chamber 44. You have now disassembled you shock. Take the o-rings to a local supplier and have them sized up and replaced, I recommend getting a quantity of each, labelling them and putting them in a container for next time, its always good to have a supply of them
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45. Take your new main shaft o-ring, apply a few drops of suspension oil to it and pinch as shown 46. Insert the pinched o-ring into shaft housing as shown
47. Place your pinkie in opposite end as shown 48. Using you other pinkie, squash the o-ring into the housing and use your fingers to set the o-ring in its housing, this can be tricky, take your time and it will go in
49. Take you new shaft housing seal, and place a few drops of suspension oil onto it 50. Insert it back onto housing
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51. Shaft
with
piston
removed.
Drill
a
11mm
hole
into
small
block
of
hardwood,
then
cut
in
half
52. Insert
shaft
into
clamps
as
shown,
tighten
clamps
in
vice
53. Using propane torch, GENTLY heat eyelet/shaft junction until hot to touch
54. Insert breaker bar into eyelet, then unscrew eyelet from shaft, if shaft spins, ensure clamp is tight and that eyelet is hot
55. When eyelet unscrews from shaft threads, rebound needle and the small o-ring will be exposed 56. Using a brush, ensure all loctite is removed from the shaft threads
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57. Press rebound needle out of shaft, replace small o-ring at threaded end of shaft 58. The rebound system has been fully disassembled
59. Clean all remaining loctite from eyelet threads with a brush 60. Unscrew rebound adjust from eyelet, being careful not to loose the detent ball or spring
61. Clean both adjuster and insides of the eyelet, regrease both, then reinsert the adjuster in eyelet
62. Clean and lightly grease rebound needle, then reinsert into the shaft, ensure that the small o-ring at threaded end has properly engaged over the needle and that it is sitting flush in its small shaft recess PDF compression, OCR, web optimization using a watermarked evaluation copy of CVISION PDFCompressor
63. Reinsert the shaft into the clamps, place a small amount of loctite on threads, ensure loctite does not spill into rebound needle or on shaft surface 64. Reinstall the eyelet onto the shaft, hand tighten, the ensure clamps are tight
65. Using breaker bar, retighten the eyelet, the clamps will needed to be significantly tight to ensure that eyelet tightens properly 66. Remove shaft from the clamps and clamp the eyelets into the vice. Using a small Allen key, gently push down on the rebound needle so that it engages the adjuster
67. Using a syringe, inject suspension oil down into the rebound assembly to purge air, cover the rebound hole if needed. The rebound assembly is now rebuilt.
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68. To Access Propedal Spring and plate o-ring, with shock clamped upright in vice, remove the snap ring using long nose circlip pliers 69. Replace o-ring, then reinstall spring back in reservoir, along with Propedal base plate, then reinstall circlip, insuring the it is properly seated in the recess. (Second Picture shows reservoir with Propedal assembly removed
70. Unscrew black bottom out plunger from grey housing 71. Remove and replace o-ring, then reinstall black bottom out plunger in grey housing
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STEP 11: Replacing IFP and Bottom Out assembly o-rings, reassembling shaft assembly
72. Place a few drops of suspension fluid on a new IFP o-ring, and place it back on the IFP (In picture, new o- ring in place on IFP, old one next to IFP) 73. Place a few drops of suspension fluid on new bottom out housing and adjuster o-rings, then place them back on the assembly (the position of the old o-rings on the table is respective of where they go on the BO assembly)
74. Wipe some suspension fluid on shaft, and replace rubber bottom out bumper 75. Reinsert the shaft seal housing back onto the shaft, be careful to put it on straight, take your time, DO NOT FORCE IT, otherwise damage to the shaft or bushing may result
76. Replace the piston/shim assembly, and retighten. Just snug it tight, if you over tighten it too much, you may crush the shims and prevent them flexing
77. After you have retightened the piston, pull the shaft housing all the way up. Coat Piston and shim stack in oil, as to minimize air in shim, piston assembly. You have now successfully rebuild the shaft assembly
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78. Refill the main chamber with oil 79. Let it filter into piggyback chamber and keep filling until piggyback chamber is almost overflowing
80. Place the IFP into the chamber, press it so it just sits on the top of the threads (ensure bleed screw is in) 81. Fill main chamber with suspension oil until it is almost overflowing
82. While holding IFP in place, reinsert the piston into the chamber and thread the seal housing on, hand tighten it at this stage 83. Remove IFP bleed screw
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84. Depress IFP past threads, ensure bleed screw is removed, and wear safety glasses, as oil will squirt through bleed hole
85. Using you measuring tool, push IFP to its correct depth. If you did not record your IFP depth, use the depth chart at the end of this document. Tap body to displace any trapped air as your pushing the IFP in, this will ensure a good bleed
86. Reinstall bleed screw, drain and wipe excess oil from IFP chamber
87. Using spanner or wrenches, retighten the shaft housing. Its recommended that you use the old tube to protect the shaft
88. Reinsert the bottom out assembly 89. Using a spanner or wrench, tighten the grey cap
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90. Reinstall the Bottom Out adjuster cap 91. Tighten the 2 grub screws
92. Reinflate the boost valve to a minimum of 125PSI 93. Clean the shock over with Isopropyl Alcohol or a wet cloth
94. Reinstall spring, any reducers and valve cap (and in my case, my shock boot) 95. Reinstall the shock back onto your bike 96. Do the bounce test on your bike to lube internal parts, then set adjustments to you settings, bounce check again to make sure everything is working correctly 97. Success = BEER!
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Thanks
to
EmanResu
on
MTBR
for
finding
the
IFP
chart
Thanks
to
Enemy1
for
Propedal
instructions
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Acknowledgements
Big
thanks
to
the
people
who
contributed
their
valuable
knowledge
to
help
me
compile
this
guide,
id
name
you
individually,
but
you
know
who
you
are!
Info
obtained
from
people
on:
- MTBR
- Pinkbike
- ROTORBURN
AUSTRALIA
(formally
FARKIN)
- Ride
Monkey
Compiled
By
me,
Nick_M2R
on
18
May
2009
Updated:
28
January
2010
While
I
have
proof
read
this
guide
carefully,
but
Im
only
human.
If
you
have
notice
any
mistakes
or
have
any
improvements,
PM
me
on
MTBR
and
ill
include
them
in
future
releases.
Enjoy
Guys
and
Girls!
Version:
4
th th
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