APPENDIX

I1

A GLOSSARY OF THE INDIAN TEXTILES EXPORTED TO SWTH EAST ASIAN COUNTRIES AND ENGLAND

ALLEJEAS, ALLEGAIS, ALACHA, ALLEJAES, ALLEGAES.

A variety of s t r i p e d cotton and s i l k , blue, sometimes

c l o t h of mixed w i t h red, white o r

commonly

flowered and embellished thread. yards Length: of

16-

with gold and silv,

17

yards

by

1.25

width.

Manufactured i n Western India, and Bengal. AMBERTEES

South I n d i a

A superior quality of white cloth woven i n Patna area (Bihar).

It

was

in

great

demand f o r the London market i n the f i r s t half about was of the seventeenth century. Size It of

yard broad and 13 yards long. used for the lining

especially

quilts, and also for re-export.

BAFTAS, BAFFETAS.

This term covered more than one k i n d of cotton goods. Baftas of plain cotton calico

of Gujarat varying i n quality from coarse to fine. Baftas sent to Europe were

usually white, were commonly After the

but for Asian markets they dyed red, Gujarat blue or black.
it

famine

was
15

manufactured i n other parts of India. cubits long.

BEATHILLES, BETILLES.

A white muslln made a t Masulipatnam and Golconda, especially l o the neighbwrhood The name i s connected w i t h beatilha, 'veil'. It Length usually and is
a

of Warangal. Portuguese

Deccan name f o r from broad. striped or

muslin. yards; in

varied yards

15

to

25

If

Dyed

red, with

sometimes in

flowered

embroidery,

great demand i n Europe as shawls. BRAWLES

cheap

blue

and

white

striped

cotton

cloth

patterned i n loom,

classified as a

'gulnea-stuff' slaves. BYRAMI , BYRAMS, BEIRAME.

and i n great demand f o r the

Manufactured I n Western India.

The

name

of

very

fine blue,

cotton or

stuff,

usually dyed i n red, Asian markets.

black f o r produced

They

were

mainly i n Burhanpur area.

CACHCHAI

A Loincloth made of coarse cotton.

CANNEKINS, CANNIKENS, CANEQUIMS.

A cheap coarse calico, black. Broach and Navsari, main Asian markets.

dyed i n blue o r

I n Western India chiefly woven a t and sold i n a l l the

CHELAS, CHILLAES, CHELLOES.

I n the seventeenth

century

records

it

is

described as cotton handkerchiefs,

usually Telugu both

chira

striped

blue or

and

white. A cotton

From cloth

&.

striped and chequered.

CHILLIES, CHELLIES.

A k i n d of cotton piece goods made i n South India.

It

was

cheap

checkered

sort,

woven mainly i n Madras area and e x p o r t e d t o Malay Archipelago.

CHINTES, CHINTZ.

Or

m, mentioned
calico. It had Archipelago

in

the

English

Factory records t o any painted o r spotted cotton Malay great as demand in

sarongs. Deccan and

Manufactured i n Western I n d l a , on t h e Coromandel coast.

CUTTANEES

An

important wlth usually

Gujarati silk and striped

export cotton and

cloth with

of

mixed weave,

satin

sometimes In which great were in

interspersed demand f o r

with

flowerr. quilts,

making of

popular i n England.

Produced c h i e f l y

Ahmadabad and Cambay area.

DERIABADS

A good q u a l i t y of p l a i n white calico, brought bleaching. to Broach by the English

often for

Exported t o South East Asian Manufactured a t Dimension Pradesh.

markets and t o England. Daryabad i n Uttar

13 to 14 yards long by 3/4 y a r d broad.

DRONGANG MALAYA

A k i n d of cotton c l o t h exported from t h e Coromandel coast: the name may be connected w i t h the Malay very d a r k red!

dragsm

'brown o r

I t was produced on t h e

Coromandel coast as black and r e d , e i t h e r s t r i p e d o r chequered.

DUNGAREES

A p l a i n w h i t e coarse calico w i t h m u l t i p l e warps and wefts woven mainly coast, usually dyed brown.

on t h e West
Exported t o

Malay Archipelago and also t o Europe. DUPATTA

garment

used coast

like

wrap, to

Ilterally the

cloth i n two widths. Coromandel Archipelago.

Manufactured on t h e Malay

exported

DUTTEES, DUTTIES, DHOOTIES.

very

coarse known

and

strong its

cloth, use as

from
It i s

which very cloth. Duttees mainly

dhotie were
well The
wc-e

apparently made. from

loin that used

records strong sails

make i t coarse and as

clear cloth a

for

packing

material. Usually and

1

Manufactured

i n Western India.
12 t o 15 y a r d s

sold i n length of yard width.

W-ven

chiefly

at

Dolkha i n t h e Western I n d i a .

ECKBARIES

Plain white cloth,

measurement more than for making i n t o sent to and sometimes ordinary

36 inches,
chintz and

often brought quilts for

Ahmadabad

dyeing. They were

Manufactured i n Uttar Pradesh. sold I n a l l t h e main markets.

GINGHAMS

Pure cotton cloth woven of dyed y a r n w i t h stripes and checks. coast and Produced in Bengal. East on the They Asfen

Coromandel were

e x ~ o r t e d to

South

covntrles from Masulipatnam. Ginghams Europe yards. GUINEA-STUFFS, GUINEA-CLOTH. The general te-m or for a seventeenth were fn the extensively second Length

Later Bengal exported half of usually to the

21

century.

wide

range and

of

cheap, mostly

brightly striped

coioured Indian calicoes, chequered very sale. Exported t o South

popular among negroes.

East Asian markets and Guinea f o r Manufactured i n Western India.

GULDARS, GULDAREES.

Persian gul-dar, name thread. manufacture. inches broad. for fine

'spotted or flowered'. muslin was turban the

cloths

ornamented at the ends i n gold or s i l v e r Burhanpur centre f o r It was 12 yards long and 30

GUNNIES

A strong coarse calico used for sacking and as covering for bales; also sent t o England as piecegoods. Broach. Woven mainly i n Rajapur end Karwar areas and t o a lesser extent a t

IZAREES, IZZAREES.

Manufactured From Telugu Longcloth

on

the or

North

Coromandel. Hence glnghams

istree,

'pressed'.

implies that the cloth was finished w i t h a very srnmth surface.

JECKANDAMES, YECKANDAMES.

The Slam.

name g i v e n

to

particular

sort

of

palnted cotton

dopatta

mainly t o send t o

KAINGULONG

From Malay gulong, loom thread. exported coast and and

'Kain',

"cloth

material", patterned with on

and in gold the

CAINGOULONG , CAINGOULONS.

'rolled'. usually in rolls. chiefly

A variety

incorporated

The term i m p l i e s t h a t t h e y were Manufactured intended into Malay-

sarongs and Java g i r d l e s ( w a i s t c l o t h )

KERYABADS

A good q u a l i t y

p l a i n w h i t e calico, i n great English home market length Kairabad on and in

demand account breadth.

for of

the its

exceptional at

Manufactured

Uttar Pradesh.

LONGCLOTH

The

ordinary

staple

cotton in
37

cloth Europe yards

of on and

Coromandei, account of

very its

famous of

length

w i d t h o f 1.25 in Golconda in

yards. but later

I t varied widely i n E a r l i e r i t was woven

It

q u a l i t y and p r i c e . mainly Madras white

was
It

produced usually be in

area. it

was also

exported

but

could

blue o r brown colours.

LUNG1

a waist c l o t h .

MEDAPHONS

A s t r i p e d c l o t h woven c h i e f l y i n Golconda and Madras and exported to Malay

Archipelago.

MERCOOLEES, MERCULEES.

A good p l a i n w h i t e callco, woven I n Jalpur and i n Lucknow area. Sometimes chintz. bought for Exported t o South transforming into East Asia and London i n large quantitles.

Usually length was 15 yards.

MATAFONS, MITTFOONES, MUTTFOONS.

low-grade

chequered calico

b ~ g h tf o r

t h e Malay Archipelago. Cambay.

Woven mainly a t

MOREES, MURIS.

One of t h e categories of staple cotton c l o t h woven on t h e Coromandel coast. Usually

It

of superior q u a l i t y and much i n demand i n Europe as a substitute for linen c l t o h . was also used f o r were blue Masulipatnam also woven were making chintz. Pulicat centres traditional cloths. Muris and of

manufacture but l a t e r i n t h e century i t was i n Madras area. yards long and Dimensions 1 yard

usually

9-10

inches wide o r 15i t o 16 covads.

NICANEES, NICKANEES.

A cheap s t r i p e d calico, Bought Chiefly Dimension mainly woven usually for at

patterned i n loom. slave and markets. Baroda.

the

Broach

1 4 t covads

long and

1 1/8 covads broad.

PALAMPORE, PALLAMPORES, PALAMPOSH.

hand-painted

or

block-printed

cloth,

produced i n Gujarat c h i e f l y a t Ahmadabad.

A high q u a l i t y c l o t h used as bed-cove-.

PATOLA, PATOLAS.

Well

known Gujarat and Coromandel pieces i l k cloth. The warp and weft Patolas were before weaving according t o

goods of

being tle-dyed

the pre-determined pattern.

exported mainly t o t h e Malay Archipelago, measurements v a r l e d accordlng t o t h e need of different markets. The longer slzes

were specially commissioned. of patola weavlng were

Chief centre in the

patan,

north-east of Ahmadabad and Masullpatnam.

PATTA.

A the was

cheap

dyed

cotton

cloth,

usually which in It

striped,

but varying i n s t y l e according t o local market f o r Manufactured South

particular Intended.

India.

PERCALLAS, PERCALLAES, PARICALS.

A high grade p l a l n cotton c l o t h , especially noted f o r fineness, texture and d u r a b i l i t y . They areas were and woven i n Madras and Golconda were the k i n d of calico best Dimensions were about

suited f o r chintz.

8 yards of
Mostly

length and in

1 y a r d of
white

width. but

produced

colour

occasiwlally i n red.

PINTADOS.

Painted and

cloths

with

full

of

figures

great smdry

small,

pretilly

representing

trades and occupations of t h e Indians w i t h t h e i r habits.

PITCHARIES.

Manufactured i n Western India. coloured urllcoas, Malay Archipelago.

They were

exported mainly t o t h e

RUMBATTEENES, RAMBOETYNS.

A c l o t h procured a t Nagapatnam. The name may be due t o some resemblance i n t h e pattern t o t h e r e d h a i r y f r u i t the Malay 'rambutan' tree. of

SAILCLOTH

plain

whlte,

coarse

cloth.

Narrow

serihas of

double thread

having a length

of 20 covads i n Gujarat.

SALAMPORES, SALAMPURIS, SALAMPOURIES.

The calico

Javanese

name

for

the

Coromandel

known to the English merchants as

'Salampore' varying Made out

.
of very

One in pure fine,

of

the

categories and ranging

of

staple cotton cloth. widely

Woven on t h e coast quality cotton either price. from

coarse t o

p l a i n white, Exported

blue o r brown.

The usual dimensions were

16 yards long and 1 y a r d wide.

i n large quantities to England from Madras and Masulipatnam.

SARASSA, SARASSAGOBARS.

~ d r a s s amans,

'superior'

multi-coloured and i n Japan could be

petterned cloths,

much i n demand i n Malay

Archipelago as a waist cloth, for other uses. The woven,

pattern

either

painted o r

such as sarassa cotton India or silk. at

patolas could be sithiManufactured in South

chiefly

SEALAS.

A material f o r gold.

turbans,

Interwoven w i t h

SEMIANOES

Good p l a i n and s t r i p e d calico, liked for its breadth, sometimes of the as much as 14 yards. size, they were at

especially was Because in and

whlch

saleable Samana

England. Patiala.

Manufactured

Length was about 12 yards.

SERRIBAFFS

Good

quality,

fine

muslin from

Khandesh

and Daccan, sometimes dyed r e d o r blue. Exported mainly t o West Asia.

SERIHAS, SERYAS, SERIJAS, SEARES.

cheap

strong

calico,

either

p l a i n br

striped.

Demanded I n Europe f o r making

napkins and sometimes flags and sailcloth. Produced i n Western India.

SHASH

turban

cloth, demand

usually in west

of

fine or Asia.

quality, brocaded. Mostly

and

sometimes

embroidered

I n great

woven i n the Deccan.

SUCATOONS

Striped Eastern breadth, length,

or

chequered silk.

fabric

of

silk yard

or in in in

mixed cotton and India. and

Manufactured one
10-20 yards

Usually varied from

Exported t o t h e South East Aslan

countries.

TAFFETA, TAFFATIE TAFFETY.

silk

cloth

with

wary

lustre,

manufactured i n Bengal.

TAPE-CHINDS TAPPE, TAPE-CHINDAES.

The

name

for

several 'a s k i r t '

combinations Derived or from 'border'

of

various

piece-goods.

the
and

Javanese t a p i ,

Hind1 chint 'chintz'. a type of garment, patterns. Gujarat

This term indicates decorated in with these specialised

goods and later imitated i n other p a r t s of India. Exported t o Malay Archipelago.

TAPIKACHIL , TAPIPULANG , TAPISARASSAS.

Multicoloured patterns.

skirts,

decorated

with

TAPSEELS, TOPSEILES, TAFFICILAS.

Cheap cotton loom,

striped (broad much in

stuff and

of

mixed in

silk the

and in Malay

narrow) in

patterned the

demand Woven

Archipelago.

Cambay,

Ahmrdabad and Sind areas.

TUCKERYES, TUCKREES.

Striped

silk

piece-goods.

Manufactured

near Patna.

APPENDIX VOLUME INTRA A) OF

1x1 TRADE

- ASIAN
Total Value

EXPORTS FROM INDIA TO SOUTH EAST ASIA

........
Year

Value of Cargo From West Coast

Value of Cargo From East coast1

E =..

=.=.....EEE====ll

NOTE :

This mark indicates the non-availability volume of trade throughout this study.

of data on the

0)
= . * . = = 5

IMPORTS FROM SOUTH EAST ASIAN REGIOI

--

--.
1616 1617

Year

Items of Cargo

Destination

Total Value i n

===..;..

.........1s15=1..==~..=

Pepper 6,1081 cattes. Wax 6,106

37
Japan

*
5,05~%
0

cattes.

Sapan wood, hides, Deer skins, spices etc. Brimstone 3 tayles, tamphor 5 tayles, rawsilk 120 tayles coconut o i l 39 for lamps. Benzion, camphor, tutenague nutmegs, sandalwood, copper and sllverolate. Cloves, sandalwood, alum, and r i a l s of eight. Cloves, sandalwood, turtleshells, Japan plate and money. Pepper, cloves, sandal wood. etc. Spices, and other natural products. Gold, r i a l s of elght, lead, spices and other goods.

Japan Coromandel coast.

--

1623

40
Masulipatnam 8,635

1625

Masulipatnam

13,583

41

1626

Masulipat~m

13,OW.l

42

1627

Surat

1628

Surat

1630

Coromandel coast

45 12,130

1634

Cloves, tortoise shells, and other natural products Spices, gpld coins, r l a l of eight i n silver.

-1641

47
Masulipatnam 10,925

Various items

Surat

4,604

48

1644

Many Cornmodltles

Madras

2,364

49

1647

Pepper, brimstone, turtleshells, long pepper, cassialignum and parrots.

Madras

9,250

50

Cargo value

7,965

Surat

17,215~

1648

Different sorts of commodities.

Madras

1650

Varlous commodities

Surat

52 6,250