383

Shear

Properties
and

of Woven Fabrics in Various Directions

W. M. LO
AND

J. L. HU

Institute

of Textiles

Clothing, Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung

ABSTRACT

Hom. Kowloon,

Hong Kong

Shear behavior is one of the most important characteristics that contribute to the performance and appearance of woven fabrics. In this paper, a model derived from Kilbys work is first used to predict fabric shear rigidity in different directions. Based on the ) G existing literature, a strong linear relationship is found between shear rigidity (and shear hysteresis at two angles (2 and 2 The model for predicting fabric shear HG 5). HG rigidity is then applied to the shear hysteresis of a wide range of woven fabrics by comparing the theoretical data and experimental results and presenting them in the form of polar diagrams. The results show strong linear relationships between shear rigidity and shear hysteresis, not only in the principal directions but also in various bias directions. In all experimental results, distinct maxima are presented in the polar diagrams of fabric shear properties between the warp and weft directions.

practical use, textile fabrics are subjected to a wide range of complex deformations, so the shear properties of woven fabrics are important in many practical applications. To understand the mechanisms of fabric shear behavior, Dreby [5], Go et al. 171, Momer and EegOlofsson [ 19], and Kawabata [9, 10] each introduced a shear apparatus to measure fabric shear properties. Later. Cusick [41, Lindberg et al. {!4!. and Grosberg and Park [6] used a qualitative method to describe shear properties with a model. They indicated that the hysteresis produced during shearing is determined wholly by the frictional restraints arising in the rotation of the yams from the intersecting points in the fabric. In addition, the existing literature proves that the shear mechanism is one . of the important properties influencing the draping. pliability, and handle of woven fabrics [4, 5, 11 ]. Shear deformation of woven fabrics also affects their bending and tensile properties in various directions other than just the warp and weft directions [2, 7, 12]. The shear behavior of woven fabrics in both principal directions is still receiving wide attention because it affects much fabric behavior, but no attention has been paid to fabric shear properties in various bias directions because these involve complex mechanisms. Therefore, it would be useful to obtain quantitative knowledge of shear in various directions where the angles between two sets of yams change in the intersecting points. In this study, we characterize the shear behavior of a woven fabric by shear rigidity (G) and shear hysteresis at two angles (2HG and 2HG5) with the KESF instrument. Shear rigidity is the resistance of a fabric to shear, while shear hysteresis is the energy loss within a shear defor-

In

mation cycle. In this study. with data obtained from the KESF instrument for a wide range of woven fabrics in different directions, we establish a model for predicting fabric shear rigidity in various directions. The existing literature has demonstrated a strong relationship between shear rigidity and shear hysteresis [ 3, 8. 13]. For example, the results from Collier. Jeong and Phillips. and Hu indicate that the correlation coefficients of shear rigidity and shear hysteresis are very high0.97, 0.9.~, and 0.92. respectively. Although the mechanisms governing shear rigidity and hysteresis of woven fabrics may be different, based on the results in the literature and in this work. we have assumed that shear rigidity and shear hysteresis have similar mechanisms. Therefore, based on the validity of the model to predict fabric shear rigidity, we apply our proposed model for shear rigidity in various directions to shear hysteresis of different woven fabrics. We compare all the experimental data with the theoretical results and present them in the form of polar diagrams. The validity of the model for shear hysteresis indicates that the linear relationship between shear rigidity and shear hysteresis holds not only for the principal directions, but also for various directions.

Modeling

Fabric Shear Properties in Various Directions

Kilby [ 12J introduced the classical elasticity theory with the assumption of a fabric regarded as an anisotropy lamina showing a Poissons effect and with two planes of symmetry at right angles to one another. According to

384
the elasticity theory [ I 3], the behavior of tensile and shear properties can be determined from the theoretical transformation of various compliances in the principal and bias directions to yield the following equations:

and

Substituting Equation

2b into lc,

we

get

Thus, fabric shear

where E X, E y and G Xy denote the tensile moduli in the X and Y axes and shear rigidity between both principal directions, respectively, with angle 0. The axes of coordinates in a woven fabric are demonstrated in Figure 1.

FIGURE 1. Axes of coordinates in

a woven

fabric.

With
axes can

Equation 1 c, the shear rigidity in the X and Y be obtained directly from the experimental tensile

rigidity in various directions can be from Equation 3 when its values in the warp and predicted 45 directions are measured. Because shear rigidity provides a measure of the resistance to rotational movements between the warp and weft yarns at the intersecting points when the fabric is subjected to small shear deformation, the relationship between both principal directions should be determined. Mahar et al. [17, 18] obtained a strong linear relationship in two principal directions, elucidating that the measurement of fabric shear properties can be simplified and is necessary in only one principal direction. We can further prove from Equation 3 that the shear rigidity in either the warp or weft direction along with the 45 directions gives a very satisfactory result in various directions. However, if differences in the shear rigidity values between the warp and weft directions are large, we take the average value in both principal directions to calculate the shear rigidity in various directions given in Equation 3. Shear hysteresis of the fabric can be defined as the energy loss within the shear cycle when the fabric is deformed and allowed to recover to its original position. Other researchers have proved a strong linear relationship between shear rigidity (G) and shear hysteresis (2HG and 2HG5) [3, 8, 13]. Based on these findings, we apply our proposed model for predicting fabric shear rigidity (G) in different directions to the shear hysteresis (2HG and 2HG5) of different fabrics. In this research, we compare our experimental data with the theoretical results, presented in the form of polar diagrams.

modulus, while v~2 cannot. The theoretical treatment suggests that measurements of moduli in two directions are
insufficient to define a fabrics shear rigidity, since variations with directions are still possible for fabrics with similar E, and E2. An investigation of the third direction is therefore necessary, and the most convenient direction is
I 1 45. 45*. Thus, the sum - + 1

Experimental

from measurements by considering specimens cut along the warp, weft, and 45 directions. Therefore, when considering 0 45 values, Equation Ic gives
=

E,three directionsE, / may be deduced E2 -rin

+

2M2

We selected thirty-five apparel fabric samples with three weave constructions (plain, twill, and satin); twelve woven fabrics were laboratory-produced with 100% cotton, and the others were typical commercially available woven fabrics made from acetate, acrylic, cotton, polyester/cotton, polyester/silk, nylon, rayon, silk, wool, and worsted wool. The particulars of fabric construction are provided in Table I.

385
TABLE I. Fabric construction

particulars

and the results of shear

rigidity

and shear

hysteresis

in various directions of different.

woven

fabncs.

b Worsted/wool Polyester/cotton blend. Polyester/silk blend. All others are cotton.

blend.

Wool.

Acrylic.

Nylon,

(Rayon..

9 Aceukte.

Polyester.

All fabric samples were conditioned at 65 2% relative humidity and 20 2C for 24 hours before measuring in order to relieve any localized stresses caused by handling during preparation. The thickness of each fabric sample was determined after conditioning. The convention is that the acute angle between the weft direction of the specimen and the warp direction is the bias angle. In this case, we have also adopted the convention of angles deviating clockwise from the line of the warp direction. Therefore, clockwise from the face of the fabric is counted as positive while counterclockwise is counted as negative. In the polar diagrams, + 15 is expressed as 15 and 195, -15 is expressed as 165 and 345, and so on. The orientation of sample preparation is shown in Figure 2. For a woven fabric with a symmetrical structure, such as a plain weave, a range of 90 from the warp and the

FIGURE 2. Potu diagram.

386
TABLE h. Theoretical and experimental results of fabric shear rigidity in various directions.a

Results and Discussion

COMPARISON OF THEORETICAL EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS
AND

Shear

Rigidity

in Various Directions

of shear

By comparing the theoretical and experimental results rigidity (G) for the different woven fabrics, we see good agreement between them with a deviation
smaller than 8.84%, shown in Table I. Selected results of shear rigidity ( G ) in different directions of plain ( F 1 ), twill (F7), and satin (F25) woven fabrics are listed in Table II and demonstrated in the form of polar diagrams in Figures 3a, b, and c, respectively. In Figure 3, the shape of the shear rigidity polar diagram illustrates that it exhibits a similar pattern that is symmetrical in the warp and weft directions. The values of these parameters change with the bias angle, passing through a crest with maximum values in 45 directions corresponding to the warp or weft direction. Hence, there are distinct maxima between the warp and weft directions in the polar diagram of shear rigidity for woven fabrics. In our work, the shape of a polar diagram of fabric shear rigidity in various directions is governed mainly by values in 45 directions from Equation 3. Note that the shear rigidity polar diagrams vary for different woven fabrics. In addition, the fundamental differences in shear rigidity in various directions between different fabrics will be due to some inherent difference in their physical behavior, their finishes, and perhaps the yarn or fiber stiffness, the contact area at the intersecting points of two sets of yarns, or the fiber packing density in the yams,

~ Exp. experimental data of fabric shear rigidity. Theo. theo&dquo;* retical results calculated from Equation 3. Significant at p < 0.05. This means that there is a statistically significant deviation between the experimental and theoretical data (four sets of data were taken in each direction). >.
=
=

weft direction is taken as adequate. Nevertheless, the fabrics are cut over 180 for an asymmetrical structure such as a twill or satin weave. Specimens were cut in the warp and weft directions and also at directions of 15, 30, 45, 60, and 75 to the warp. Template specimens cut at various angles to the warp were available for testing the theoretical expression for the polar variation, and they were tested in the usual way. There were four repetitions of each fabric for seven orientations of plain weave and twelve orientations of twill and satin weaves, in total twenty-eight and forty-eight specimens, respectively.

FIGURE 3. Theoretical and

experimental

results of fabric shear

rigidity:

(a)

plain

weave

(FI (b) twill

weave

IF7), and (c) satin

weave

(F25).

387

Any combination of these factors can confer differshear characteristics on woven fabrics, even when they are made from the same material. We see from fabric geometry that there is a normal pressure acting at each intersecting point of two sets of yams in the unset fabric. Because the shear force is applied to the fabric and is usually of larger magnitude than the frictional restraint at the intersecting points of the yams, the fabric will deform with a hysteresis effect. In this case, fabrics woven from natural fibers will have larger shear hysteresis values than those from synthetic fibers due to the relatively low contact area of synthetic fibers at each yam intersecting point. The values of shear properties decrease after finishing processes. It is a fact that the residual bending stresses existing in the yams are relaxed with the reduction of the normal reaction at the cross-over regions. Thus, commercially available woven fabrics usually have lower shear properties than laboratory-produced woven fabrics.
etc.
ent

The results in Figure 4 further prove that good agreement exits between the theoretical and experimental results, implying that the proposed model is a reliable predictor of fabric shear properties in various directions. Because shear deformation depends on the frictional and elastic forces within a fabric, elastic forces will build up rapidly if a tightly woven fabric is sheared to where limited sliding of yams over each other is allowed at their cross-over points. But frictional forces will be very low if the fabric is loosely constructed in weaves such as twill and satin. RELATIONSHIP OF SHEAR RIGIDITY IN VARIOUS DIRECTIONS The HYSTERESIS

AND

existing literature shows strong relationships berigidity and shear hysteresis [3, 8, 13]. The relationships between shear rigidity (G) and shear hystween shear

Shear

shear rigidity ( G ) model to the shear hysteresis at two angles (2HG and 2HG5) of different woven fabrics in various directions, we get the deviations from all directions of the proposed model and experimental results of 2HG and 2HG5 of different woven fabrics, listed in Table I. Agreement is good between the experimental and theoretical results of 2HG and 2HG5 with deviations smaller than 10%. The model for predicting shear hysteresis (2HG and 2HG5) in various directions is plotted with the experimental data of fabric l, as shown in Figures 4a and b, respectively.

Hysteresis in Various By applying the proposed

Directions

teresis (2HG and 2HGS) of fabric 1 in various directions are illustrated in Figures 5a, b, and c, respectively. There is a strong linear relationship between shear properties in different directions. The coefficient of determination R2 for 2HG and G in various directions is 0.9727. for 2HG5 and G in various directions is 0.9920, and for 2HGS and 2HG in various directions is 0.9579. These strong linear relationships between shear rigidity and shear hysteresis at two angles, R2 > 0.90, are also apparent in different types of woven fabrics, shown in Table I. From these facts, we can assume that a similar mechanism operates for shear rigidity and hysteresis between both principal and bias directions. Because the shear

FIGURE 4. Theoretical and

experimental

shear hysteresis in various directions of fabric 1: (a) 2HG and (b) 2HG5.

388

FIGURE 5.

Relationships

between shear

rigidity

and

hysteresis

of fabric I in various directions:

(a) 2HG and G, (b) 2HG5 and G, and (c) 2HG5 and 2HG

rigidity of a fabric is mainly caused by the frictional forces existing within the yams, shear hysteresis is also governed by the corresponding frictional forces, and the
occurrence

Conclusions
model derived from Kilbys shear rigidity in various directions. predict Agreement is good between the theoretical and experimental results measured on the KESF instrument. Based on the strong relationship between shear rigidity and shear hysteresis, we apply the model for shear rigidity in various directions to shear hysteresis. Agreement is also good between theoretical and experimental shear hysteresis in various directions. From the results in this paper, we see that the shape of a polar diagram of fabric shear properties is symmetrical in the warp and weft directions and crests at the maximum values in 45 directions. Thus, distinct maxima are present in the polar diagrams of shear properties of woven fabrics between the warp and weft directions. In addition, polar diagrams of shear rigidity and shear hysteresis move inward to outward with increasing weave In this work to

study,

we use a

of frictional force is continuous in the whole shear cycle. Higher values of shear rigidity appear in the bias directions, and larger magnitudes of shear hysteresis can also be found in these directions.

EFFECT

OF

WEAVE DENSITY

ON

FABRIC SHEAR

In this section, our discussion is based on the analysis of fabrics 29-32 (plain), 11-14 (2/2 twill) and 19-22 (3/3 twill). Because the warp densities of these fabrics are kept constant, any changes in the trends of polar diagrams of shear properties can be considered from the different weft densities of these fabrics. The polar diagrams of shear rigidity and shear hysteresis at two angles for woven fabrics with different weft densities are plotted in Figures 6a, b and c, respectively. The highest shear rigidity and shear hysteresis are observed for the plain fabrics, while the lowest are for the 3/3 twill fabrics shown in Figure 6. For different weft densities, the results obtained from Figure 6 show that the values of shear rigidity and shear hysteresis increase with increasing weft density of the woven fabrics. From all experimental results, the shape of the polar diagrams moves inward to outward when the fabric weave density increases. This is because a loose structure has lower interyam friction and allows the relative movement of warp and weft yams. As a result, loose fabrics have the lowest shear rigidity and shear hysteresis. On the other hand, a tight structure avoids yam movement, thus increasing the shear hysteresis of the fabrics. Therefore, a larger value of shear rigidity and shear hysteresis leads to an increase in the size of the polar diagram.

density.
In addition, strong linear relationships exist between shear rigidity and shear hysteresis of woven fabrics in 2 various directions. The coefficients of determination R2 of these properties for different woven fabrics are higher than 0.90. This finding proves that a strong relationship between shear rigidity and shear hysteresis exists not only in the warp and weft directions, but also in various directions, further justifying the use of this model for shear rigidity to the prediction of shear hysteresis in various directions. ACKNOWLEDGMENT

W. M. Lo wishes to acknowledge the financial support received from the Hong Kong Polytechnic University for the work reported here.

389

FIGURE 6. Polar diagrams of (a) shear rigidity (G) of plain, 2/2 twill, and 3/3 twill woven fabrics, (b) shear hysteresis (2HG) of plain, 2/2 twill, and 3/3 twill woven fabrics, and (c) shear hysteresis 12HG5) of plain, 2/2 twill. and 3/3 twill woven fabrics.

Literature Cited
1. Behre, B., Mechanical Properties of Textile Fabrics, Part I: Shearing, Textile Res. J. 31 (2), 87-99 (1961). 2. Chadwick, G. E., Shorter, S. A., and Weissenberg, K., A Trellis Model for the Application and Study of Simple Pulls in Textile Materials, J. Textile Inst. 40, T111-160

3. Collier, B. J., Measurement of Fabric Drape and Its Relation to Fabric Mechanical Properties and Subjective Evaluation, Cloth. Textile Res. J. 10 (1). 46-52 (1991). 4. Cusick, G. E., The Resistance of Fabrics to Shearing Forces, J. Textile Inst. 52 (9), T395-406 (1961). 5. Dreby, E. C., The Planoflex: A Simple Device for Evaluating the Pliability of Fabrics, Am. Dyest. Rep. 30, 651-

(1949).

666(1941).

390
6.

Grosberg, P., and Park, B.J., The Mechanical Properties of

14.

Woven Fabrics, Part V: The Initial Modulus and the Frictional Restraint in Shearing of Plain Woven Fabrics, Textile Res. J. 36, 420-431 (1966). 7. Go, Y., Shitrohara, A., and Matsuhashi, F., Viscoelastic Studies of Textile Fabrics, Part 3: On the Shearing Buckling of Textile Fabrics, Sen-i Gakkaishi 13, 460-165

Lindberg, J., Behre, B., and Dahlberg, B., Mechanical Properties of Textile Fabrics, Part III: Shearing and Buckling of Various Commercial Fabrics, Textile Res. J. 31 (2),
99-122 (1961).

( 1957).
8.
Y. J., and Phillips, D. G., A Study of Fabric-Drape Behaviour with Image Analysis, Part II : Effect of Fabric Structure and Mechanical Properties on Fabric Drape, J. Textile Inst. 89 (1), 70-79 (1998). Kawabata, S., Niwa, M., Ito, K., and Nitta, M., Application of Objective Measurements to Clothing Manufacture, Int. J. Clothing Sci. Technol. 2 (3/4), 18-31 (1972). Kawabatas Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-FB) Manual, Kato Tech Co. Ltd., 1972. Kilby, W. F., Shear Properties in Relation to Fabric Hand, Textile Res. J. 31, 72-73 (1961). Kilby, W. F., Planar Stress-Strain Relationships in Woven Fabrics, J. Textile Inst. 54, T9-27 (1963). Hu, J. L., Structure and Low Stress Mechanics of Woven Fabrics, Doctoral thesis, University of Manchester, 1994.

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10. 11.
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15. Love, A. E. H., "A Treatise on the Mathematical Theory of Elasticity," 4th ed., Dover Publications, NY, 1944. 16. Lo, W. M., A Study of Fabric Anisotropy, Doctoral thesis, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, 2001. 17. Mahar, T. J., Dhingre, R. C., and Postle, R., Fabric Mechanical and Physical Properties Relevant to Clothing Manufacture, Part 1: Fabric Overfeed, Formability, Shear and Hygral Expansion During Tailoring, Int. J. Cloth. Sci. Technol. I (1), 12-20(1989). 18. Mahar, T. J., Wheelwright, P., Dhingre, R. C., and Postle, R., Measuring and Interpreting Fabric Low Stress Mechanical and Surface Properties, Part V: Fabric Handle Attributes and Quality Descriptors, Textile Res. J. 60 (1), 7-17 (1990). 19. Momer, B., and Eeg-Olofsson, T., Measurement of the 611-614 Shearing Properties of Fabrics, Textile Res. J. 27,

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Manuscript received Januaw 18. 200/: accepted August 15.
2001.

13.