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by nat.andrews on November 29, 2011 Table of Contents Bed Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intro: Bed Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 1: Study existing designs (take sneaky photos at stores) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 2: Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 3: Detailed plan pictures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 4: Visit Bunnings / Big Box hardware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 2 5 6 7

Step 5: Cut and Assemble . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Step 6: Stain and Varnish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Step 7: Complete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Step 8: ShopBot Challenge! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Step 9: More Detailed Drawings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

Intro: Bed Frame

After looking and looking around the shops for a decent, well made wooden bed under $500. we found that everything sucked! they were either hugely expensive $1000+ or made so cheaply that extra legs had to be put in the middle to support the mattress. So we decided to diy our own! I appogise for the lack of photos, once i get into a project, I forget to stop every now and then and pick up the camera. I will try and describe the steps as well as i can.

Step 1: Study existing designs (take sneaky photos at stores)

This is the first step of the project, it involves ninja skills including * Sneaky ninja cameraphone photography * Dodging pushy salespeople * Staring at the ridiculous prices and not collapsing when your realise you can build it for 1/4 of the price! but seriously, most salespeople are happy when you tell them you are lookin to see if a bed will fit your decor, and ask if they mind if you take a photo. ive attached some of the designs that we liked, and a couple of the ones that i thought were pretty abysmal.

Image Notes 1. Again, Colour not so much Design

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

Image Notes 1. nice colour, chunky design, ridiculous price 2. Ouch!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

Image Notes 1. Like the cut out design, but kiss principal kicked in 2. OUCH!

Image Notes 1. liked the design of the foot, somewhere to sit

Image Notes 1. Thin Ply, No supports, not good 2. interesting design, why not extend the headboard all the way down? i can see me losing the remote down there

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

Image Notes 1. Realy? Your frame is so weak that it needs extra legs?

Step 2: Design
Take parts that you like from all the bed that you took sneaky photos of. and measurements from your matress Sketch designs on a piece of paper untill you decide on something you like Model it using your favourite modelling application (sketch up / autocad etc) take measurements from modelling application and compare to design on paper to make sure there are no design problems. Check design with girlfriend, even consider doing a quick render to see if she likes it. At this point you may be required to go back to the 1st step several times. Print off 3d model, and parts breakdown step complete. for our design, we used a combination of Designs and came up with something that myself and the girlfriend both agreed on. The last picture is the closest to what we ended up with, as we liked the idea of having lights and a powerboard integrated into the head of the bed.

Image Notes 1. Sorry for the bad quality photo, test image showing mattress installed

Image Notes 1. First Design, hidden storage that slides out of headboard, under bed draws and a blanket box at the end of the bed

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

Step 3: Detailed plan pictures

this step was added after the first instructable was created, I was told i needed to show some more detail on the design i used, so here it is.

Image Notes 1. Hidey hole with room for a 6 outlet power board to run phone chargers and alarm clock 2. cut out created to take the cross beam

Image Notes 1. Power board is Stuck here using sticky velcro wires for lights run down to either side of the power board

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

Image Notes 1. Bolts go through to T(Blind) nuts on the inside 2. Cut out for side support 3. Head of Bed

Image Notes 1. Foot of bed 2. Foot cross member screwed in 3. Support for top 4. Cross beam and bolt

Step 4: Visit Bunnings / Big Box hardware

This is the point where you go to your local big box store and spend half the day looking for decent pieces of pine. For this design, i used Headboard 6x 70 x 70 x 1.2m 1x 19 x 190 x 2.4m 1x 19 x 140 x 2.4m 2x 19 x 120 x 2.4m (heaboard support) 3x 12 x 133 x 2.4m (headboard lining) Foot 3x 70 x 70 x 1.2m 1x 19 x 190 x 2.4m 1x 19 x 140 x 2.4m 2x 19 x 120 x 2.4m Sides 2x 19 x 190 x 3.0m 2x 30 x 70 x 3.0m Center Support 1x 19 x 70 x 3.0m Slats

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

15x 19 x 70 x 2.4m Screws/ Fixings 1x box 8g x 40mm Time 2x Pack 5/16" Tee Nuts(Blind Nuts) 4x 2" 5/16" Zinc Bolts 4x 4" 5/16" Zinc Bolts 1x assorted little screws Lights were purchased from ikea Janso Lights @ $30 ea

Image Notes 1. Tee Nuts - makes assembly easy (untill you cross thread a bolt and snap all the teeth)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

Image Notes 1. Lengths for the side of the bed 2. Lengths for the side of the bed

Image Notes 1. Not a bad price

Image Notes 1. Pine Lining Smooth side

Image Notes 1. Pine Lining grooved side

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

Image Notes 1. Stem is secured with 2 screws to base, stem is used, base makes nice paperweight

Step 5: Cut and Assemble

Sorry i didnt get any pictures of this happening (its kind of hard using a chop saw and a camera at the same time) Tools used Ryobi chop saw GMC Table Saw Oshitso Electric Plane (mind you for $20 who cares) Ryobi Cordless drill Bosch Corded drill Basic Assembly instructions. Leg Assy. cut 3 of the long leg lengths in half to make 6 half height legs (for the foot of the bed) notch out 2 of the long legs and 2 of the short legs big enough to support the sides. notch out 2 of the long legs and 2 of the short legs to take the main head and foot supports use long screws to bolt the legs into a L Pattern, making sure the one without a notch is in the corner. Head Assembly screw the bottom cross beam into the notch, attach the top piece, and install braces to support the headboard cover. Foot assembly screw the bottom cross beam into the notch, attach the top piece, and install a brace to support the top seat. Side assy attach the runners for the slats to the main lengths, then fit into the notch and bolt to legs using tee(blind) nuts. this is to allow for easy removal. center beam assembly create beam holders using offcuts from the legs, they should be notched to allow the center beam to sit flush with the runners for the slats. using this method requires no fasteners (for the center beam) for easier disassembly. Cut slats to size, space evenly, then attach to hessian webbing using staples to keep an even distance. please comment if any of this makes no sense and i will try to illustrate the points better

Image Notes 1. Basic Frame Design 2. Ozito Planer 3. GMC Table Saw

Image Notes 1. Guard Dog

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

Image Notes 1. Future Project

Image Notes 1. Hessian webbing stapled to the underside of the slats

Step 6: Stain and Varnish

This is the point where we make the bed look like the ones we saw in the shops. we used Cabots Water based Stain - two coats for a nice dark look and then Cabots water based gloss - one coat, light sand, one coat, light sand, then a coat diluted 50% with water.

Image Notes 1. Cabots Water Based Stain

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

Image Notes 1. After One coat 2. Slats and Center support

Image Notes 1. Foot of bed 2. holes for bolts

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

Image Notes 1. one coat

Image Notes 1. Technical support rig, using left over strapping from the slats

Image Notes 1. Chair supports (another unfinished project) 2. one coat

Step 7: Complete
So this is what we ended up with, An extremly sturdy bed, with integrated lighting and power board. we are both extremely happy with the bed, and she is even considering tasking me with some bed side tables next! P.S. Please note that the soft toys are not mine, they are an addition by the girlfriend.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

Step 8: ShopBot Challenge!

I Would love to have a CNC Machine, and one that can handle a full sheet would be beautifull! a CNC machine would allow me to bring my autocad drawings to life, without relying on my innacurate hand tools. Just thinking of the possibilities now, and they are amazing! im already planning a gear clock and some name plaques for people!

Step 9: More Detailed Drawings

Here are some more detailed drawings of the plan that we used, if you would like anything specific, please leave a comment.

Image Notes

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

1. Head Legs 2. Support for slats 3. Dado Join 4. Dado Join 5. Backboard supports cut to fit

Image Notes 1. Dado join in legs

Related Instructables

Diy bed table (Photos) by cpaulo

Desk for IKEA Lo loft bed by Barts

Spongebob Square Bed by THE GOOSE

Double size Bed Loft! (Photos) by lerickson

Updated: Hang Your Bed From the Heavens! All for around $100 by Command-A

An Improved Raised Bed Garden by Creativeman

Comments
32 comments Add Comment

Captainfork2000 says:

Dec 4, 2011. 8:33 AM REPLY When I was a child, we as a family did not have a lot of money. So, my Dad built each of us 4 children a twin size bed, just the cost of materials. I have a saying; "We do not need money, we need what money buys". Your bed is a perfect example of how we can have the things we need for a lot cheaper than running to the store buying and having to work a week or more just to pay for it. Great job.

Hom3rSimpson says:
Oh just admit, they're yours. We all have a fluffy toy somewhere!

Dec 4, 2011. 11:16 PM REPLY

nat.andrews says:
possibly

Dec 5, 2011. 4:42 PM REPLY

PerfectionLost says:
What was the final cost? If you can, can you itemize the cost?

Dec 5, 2011. 7:41 AM REPLY

nat.andrews says:
All up we worked out about $300 Wood ~$250 screws $18 lights $60 bunnings prices for wood are pretty horrible though

Dec 5, 2011. 4:36 PM REPLY

geppetto425 says:

Dec 4, 2011. 1:20 PM REPLY Shellac is all those things but it simply is not durable.Don't put shellac on ANYTHING that is going to get much wear like a table top. It's great stuff but it is also an OLD finish. Use modern finishes for better results. Wipe on polyurethane is very user friendly and you don't have to worry about dust contaminating the finish. So is spray on lacquer. Also remember any alcohol spill on a shellac finish will DISOLVE IT! Look up 'Flexner on Finishing' and learn more. Jeff's Woodshop http://web.me.com/geppetto425/Site/Welcome.html

Javin007 says:

Dec 5, 2011. 10:02 AM REPLY Yeah, while I tend to lean towards the "natural is better" mantra, a lot of why I don't use shellac is due to its cons, none of which were mentioned. It does indeed age, losing its water resistance, breaks down at temperatures over 120 degrees F (which televisions, game consoles, hot tea, etc. can all achieve) and over time will craze (get tiny cracks in it as it dries out and shrinks as it becomes brittle). Then there's the fact that alcohol will immediately destroy the finish on anything shellac'd. (Such as my custom solid mahogany BAR that some idiot finished with shellac. A BAR? REALLY? Needless to say, the finish on it was ruined within weeks.)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

brothertom says:

Dec 4, 2011. 7:02 PM REPLY How about using American measurments for those who don't use metric! Unable to see how you linked legs from limited pix! Nice Job though!

calikoala says:
google is your friend.. put in search bar, 19mm to inches it will convert for you... 190mm to inches 2.4m to inches or feet

Dec 5, 2011. 7:13 AM REPLY

nat.andrews says:
Ill try and get some better diagrams of the legs up tonight for you. and convert the measurements to metric too

Dec 4, 2011. 7:17 PM REPLY

nanotechy says:
Thank you very much for sharing this excellent design.

Dec 5, 2011. 6:32 AM REPLY

For a noobie in joints construction, I have a rough time imagining the kind of joints you used to make this project a more disassemble friendly one; please share sketch up diagrams or whatever is possible to demonstrate the main joints of this project. Thank you in advance and looking forward to building one myself.

rolltidehank says:

Dec 4, 2011. 9:23 PM REPLY Love your bed and use of KISS strategy. Can't wait to build one of these myself. I really enjoyed your original plan with slide out shelves/drawers. Great work! Dec 4, 2011. 10:52 AM REPLY Great job! Excellent photos and sketches, thank you. Just to clarify a point: Even though the "extra legs" example photo included here shows very cheap construction, in Argentina good quality twin, queen and king size beds include extra legs (sometimes up to six). It is considered a sign of quality, not the opposite. Cheap beds here do not have extra legs, so in time the structure gives and the mattress sags in the middle. After all, unless you plan on adding a box underneath, adding the legs make more sense (a lot lighter structure) than reinforcing the beams. You created a beautiful bed, indeed. Clever detail that of those lights.

claudg1950 says:

nat.andrews says:
Ok, good to know, maybe over here we have really cheaply made beds then. Is having that many legs are they a feature? Can you post a photo of one? I'll keep my straight rule handy over the next few years to see if we experience any sag

Dec 4, 2011. 3:39 PM REPLY

Haymaker007 says:

Dec 4, 2011. 9:09 AM REPLY Very nice and the design is simplicity and finish well done. I will draw up and will add under bed drawers which I caught with my own Ninajesque techniques along with some other built in storage for beddings etc. Great idea with the lights and power source and excellent communication to obtain second but primary opinions. Just for clarification since I live in the great white North of America (and I do mean North) I assume the dimensions are in mm (I see the Metre symbol) and your nominal lumber dimensions from AU might be different? (I would size the uprights as 4x4 which is nominally 89x89 here). Up right bolts are enclosed/finished by a dowel or plug oe wood filler? I think the hand tools are accurate try operator (just kidding) however CNC really does add a level of precision good luck.

nat.andrews says:
Sorry, yes all dimensions are in mm. Strangely my uprights are 70x70, so 3x3. Cost prohibited moving up to 4x4 100mmx100mm . And this would have made the parts extremely heavy.

Dec 4, 2011. 3:34 PM REPLY

Upright bolts are covered with putty, but looking back a plug would have.made for a nicer finish. Not that you really notice it with the stain. And yes, more user training is probably required on my part to get my accuracy with hand tools up. Just means ill have to keep building stuff

mayej says:

Dec 4, 2011. 11:40 AM REPLY My father having been a carpenter until his death at 78 in 2009, was a fan of shellac. Of course over the years, he would always try other protective coatings, but found none had the long lasting trait as shellac. I'm just putting this out there as an FYI as I myself have come to use only shellac for my final coat, and a lot of times as my coloring too. I use Binzer Shellac, available at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. But I support small business, so I choose to buy mine at local lumber yards, not national ones. I don't eat kale, I wear deodorant, etc. But I do support local people in my community. So anyway, about shellac....

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

It doesn't yellow, it doesn't delaminate (peel) and?....it comes in COLORS now. I usually choose 'original' when I'm coating a nice wood that I don't want to stain, like Maple, Shedua, Oak, etc. Or I'll use the Amber color for softer/colorless woods like Pine, Bass, etc. The colored shellacs are not like straight up paint either. They tint. Meaning, the more you apply, the darker the result. Shellac also works just fine with pure stains like Minwax and the like. I myself will still use a stain when I want one, but I ALWAYS finish it with a few coats of shellac, regardless. If for those reading this, have never worked with shellac or even wood for that matter, this is how I do it: Just like painting a car or chroming a bumper (I've done both), your finished result is a direct reflection of how much sanding you do in your prep work. Sanding. If unfamiliar, when buying sandpaper, you will go with the ISO/FEPA Grit designation on the package. You can look up grit sizes on wikipedia. You don't have to be such a neat-freak as I, but, depending on the type/condition of the bare wood, I usually start with 280 to 320 grit and work my way up to 600 to 800 and sometimes 1200, or maybe even higher. I really take advantage of the wood when I'm working with a hard wood because I'll definitely go to 1200 and sometimes even as high as a 1500 grit. See, with hardwood, you can do this and end up with a GLASS like surface. With a softer wood, the problem lies within the grain. One grain is sturdy, which is where a tough sandpaper will come in, but the other grain in it is very soft. If you are not careful (especially when you either sandblast or torch-affect wood), you will end up with valleys between the harder grains. Hard wood does this much less as the harder grains are tighter together. Just whatever you do, ALWAYS SAND WITH THE GRAIN. I myself, will make all my measurements, cut out my pieces, dry fit them to the point that all I have to do is bolt/glue them together, then I take it ALL APART and THEN do my sanding. I mean, think of this, just how effectively do you think you can sand the inside corner of a 90 degree angle and STILL sand with the grain OR reach every area to be sanded? Once it's sanded, then I fit it all together again, making sure any areas affected by the sanding can be remedied, if any. So, once you have sanded and assembled your project, you may now use the stain you want to use if you chose to do so. Stain is also something I try to do BEFORE assembly as well. Then you put on your first coat of shellac. You can put your 2nd coat on after only 30-45 minutes (maybe even sooner)! Yes, the can will say otherwise, but trust me....use it and you can watch it dry before your eyes. The first coat is always a "soak up" coat. Meaning, the wood will just soak that sucker right down inside. I usually let my first coat sit for a couple hours to make sure a barrier has been created between my wood and the next coat. After a couple of coats (usually 4 or more for me), let it dry for 24-48 hours. This is a hardening phase for the next step. The next step: Ok, you see your project that you diligently sanded and didn't stop until you had changed the color of your entire skin with sawdust (You DID do that, right?) You see the gorgeous grains jumping out at you from the shellac you've put on it. You think it's done, because WOW, it sure is pretty. And guess what?...you CAN stop at this point and enjoy that super shiny, super deep finish (like lacquer paint, it deepens with more coats). But, I?....never do. See, I'm not a fan of a shine on wood, but that's a personal choice. I take steel wool, use 4 ought. Sorry, old man language there. Use #0000 Fine steel wool. You can find it from wood supply stores to auto paint stores. (#0000 steel wool is also great for scrubbing bug guts off of glass and chrome....works good on rusted bumpers too) Then, take that steel wool and start to "polish" the shellac. You will notice it starts to get a bit dullish. This will give you a satin finish. It's not a choice for everyone, or every project, but I like it, so I do it a lot. But again, not for every project, it's a personal choice, but man it looks good. Remember, DO NOT POLISH TOO HARD! "Allow" the steel wool to work for you. I mean, don't be so light that you don't make a difference, put in some effort, just don't "dig in" with your hand. If you've never worked with shellac, it's colors, sanding, or steel wool, I STRONGLY suggest....no, I DICTATE you have bought a "practice piece" of wood before you build your project. Not some scrap piece either. Make it a GOOD size piece, like a 3 foot long 2x4 or other sizable amount. Reason is (especially with stains), you may pick out a stain (or shellac color) that you like, and on a small piece it really does look nice. But once you apply it to your finished project, it's just way too much, overpowering, ugly, whatever. So do yourself (and your project) a favor, PRACTICE on a piece before your project and USE a good size piece. Remember that wood working is like getting to Carnegie Hall.... Practice, Practice, Practice. On shellac itself: What my Dad and I came to reason behind shellac's quality is that, since it's "a resin secreted by the female lac bug", it means it's ORGANIC, just like WOOD. Like Coffee and Chocolate. Why are they so good together?...well they're both a type of bean/seed. It's just logical that shellac and wood work so well together. Now, when you ask for shellac (if you can't find it yourself), you will ultimately run into someone (salesperson or shopper) who will praise poly's and the like. I don't dislike polyurethanes, I just find them inferior to shellac. You will hear, "This one is cheaper!" or "This one is just as good!" Think of it. Would you want to hear those two sentences if you were in the market for a spouse? Kinda funny, huh? Apply those to "wife hunting" and THEN see how it sounds. Yeah..."Shellac for me buddy, but thanks for your input." You can't replace the best. Almost forgot. As a prop to the author, Cabot's Water Based Stain was a good choice. It's one of my favorites.....(and works well with shellac). Hahaha, one MORE thing. In the past I've used instant coffee as a stain. Just like any dark stain, use it thinned and sparingly at first, apply more if you want it darker. Just an FYI for the crafty and ones that want to really bow your audience over with some added coolness. As I type this, I am looking at a pipe holder-tobacco humidor my father made in high school in 1949 that he finished with shellac. It still looks brand new. So, list of pros for Shellac: Won't delaminate Won't yellow Dries FAST Can use with anything Available in shades/colors Available in cans or sprays (how cool is that?) Lasts forever Natural and Organic Oh, years ago I messed up a chest of drawers. I placed a heavy TV on it too soon. I still have the dresser, but now there are TV footprints in it. PLEASE allow the shellac to dry hard, I mean a solid week or two, before placing anything on top of it. It may sound like overkill, but if you're gonna have something for the next 40 years, what's two weeks? Do you really wanna stare at TV footprints for 40 years?...lol (I do this with ANY coating, paint or otherwise, it's a good habit to follow, it was just during a move and I allowed it to rush me). I hope this comment is helpful. This is NOT a criticism in anyway. Wood, like anything handmade, is personal, from design to completion. I just wanted to put this info out there for those who may find it useful. ~Jef

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

menahunie says:
Great stuff. I also use it in creating a "French" polish on pieces make in a lathe; it takes allot of the elbow grease out of the work. Here is a link that shows and explains French Polishing with Shellac. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aF7wANfTub8

Dec 4, 2011. 3:25 PM REPLY

blkhawk says:
It sounds like you could make a good instructable about working with shellac.

Dec 4, 2011. 1:03 PM REPLY

mayej says:
Thank you. I've never put an instructable onsite. Wonder how I'd go about doing it without photos? I mean, I know ME, I like pictures...lol I wouldn't want to bore the audience, ya know?

Dec 4, 2011. 2:03 PM REPLY

MiltReynolds says:
Mayej,

Dec 4, 2011. 3:26 PM REPLY

I whole-heartedly agree with your making this into an instructable! I'm wondering if you might consider just using stock photos to illustrate your instructable. Taking your own photos would be best, but second-best would be a few free images that you could use royalty-free. Some good places to find free, royalty-free images: http://search.creativecommons.org/ http://www.sxc.hu/home http://www.rgbstock.com/ I've written an instructable for how to find free images: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Find-Download-and-Credit-Images-that-are-/ Anyway, I hope you do convert this great comment into an instructable!

mayej says:
I'll be darned, a site for royalty-free pics. Now what are the odds you'd read this thread and have that kind of info? Outstanding.

Dec 4, 2011. 5:33 PM REPLY

MiltReynolds says:

Dec 4, 2011. 9:43 PM REPLY I hope you find it useful. You might be able to enter a few keywords and find a picture that helps explain each step of your instructable, or at least perhaps adds some interest or "pop". I'll be waiting anxiously for your instructable!

chuckyd says:

Dec 4, 2011. 10:35 AM REPLY Check out your hardware store and online stores. There is hardware made especially for beds. Some is fully concealed and some is decorative for exposure. The cool thing about the specialize hardware is that it makes assembling and disassembling the bed so much easier. The wood needs to be carefully chosen, especially with pine. The completed bed tends to have a better appearance is all the surface grain patterns complement each other. Pine tends to vary greatly in grain pattern.

mr.frob says:

Dec 2, 2011. 6:51 PM REPLY Great 'ible, and excellent design! I've been wanting to build a new bed, in fact my niece is in need of one, but as you know the mattress is the expensive part.

nat.andrews says:
Luckily we got given an IKEA voucher as a housewarming present so that took.care of most of the cost of the mattress. Made for a pretty cheap bed

Dec 2, 2011. 7:56 PM REPLY

mr.frob says:
Sweet deal!

Dec 3, 2011. 8:14 AM REPLY

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/

ppatches24 says:
Way Cool!

Dec 2, 2011. 11:44 PM REPLY

rflight79 says:
Looks awesome! Curious how much you spent on wood and fasteners? And how much work would it take to get it apart if you were moving?

Dec 2, 2011. 10:21 AM REPLY

nat.andrews says:
All up we worked out about $300 Wood ~$250 screws $18 lights $60 and thats buying wood from my local bunnings, which has horrible prices for wood.

Dec 2, 2011. 3:49 PM REPLY

to break it down, all I have to remove is the 8 bolts holding the sides on, and you end up with a head, a foot, 2 sides and a center beam, and a bunch of slats. the head is pretty heavy though, two person lift! if you can suggest any more photos I can add to illustrate this, please let me know. nat.andrews

Penolopy Bulnick says:

Amazing! The color and design are perfect!

Dec 2, 2011. 9:18 AM REPLY

jessyratfink says:
That is a gorgeous bed! :D I love the built in lights.

Dec 2, 2011. 5:55 AM REPLY

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bed-Frame/