ISSN 1176-8916

JUNE 2007 | ISSUE ELEVEN

Textiles for a sustainable future

For the first time ever, we can link the entire R&D chain for wool and sheep production, from farm to finished product.

Dr Robert Finch, Science & Technology General Manager - Textiles

Partnerships for the future

by Dr Robert Finch Its only a matter of months since AgResearchs Textiles Group was formed out of the Canesis Network, originally Wool Research Organisation of New Zealand (WRONZ). Together with our clients were reaping big benefits from our combined capabilities and knowledge.
One of the prime advantages of this merger is that for the first time ever were able to link the entire R &D chain for wool and sheep production, consolidating and amassing key capabilities at every step from wool production to processing and product R &D. The big upside of this is that we are now creating strategy and developing outcomes which stretch from on-farm right through to the retail shelf itself. Bringing together AgResearchs strength in genomics, on-farm sustainable systems and textile product development means that we can now address some of the deficiencies in wool. We can do this by marrying up our processing and technology capability with our ability to map the sheep genome and to modify and differentiate the fibre right back before it leaves the farm gate this is the most powerful thing we could do in the long-term to bring new economic viability to sheep production. This gives us huge credibility internationally, making AgResearch a very significant research organisation in this field. Weve blended AgResearchs well-respected history of very good research and strengths in on-farm agricultural systems, sheep genetics and protein science, with Canesis capability and expertise in post-farm wool processing and bio-based product and process development. The success of our Textiles Group is built on the premise of collaboration and partnership bringing together the best brains for all stages of the chain. This is reflected in the strong history of developing commercially viable technologies. We recognise that great ideas dont happen in isolation and collaboration is the most efficient way to meld the best of science and smart technologies to achieve the best possible solutions in the shortest space of time. This collaborative approach means were a smart business that delivers, actively seeking appropriate commercial partners to ensure our technology makes it to market in the best way possible, and faster. We do this while maintaining a strong focus on developing and managing IP to maximise return and continued investment. A key focus is unearthing practical and pragmatic solutions (based on solid scientific research) for real world issues facing our customers, partners or industry. A good recent example is our innovative research (profiled in this issue) thats uncovered an ingredient in common household cleaners, which may hold the key to keeping UK and European carpets moth and beetle free. This represents a highly significant breakthrough for UK carpet manufacturers seeking environmentally safe production inputs. And thats another prime focus of our work our quest for environmentally friendly and sustainable textile solutions, applicable to the production of carpets or garments. In the apparel industry were developing more natural, environmentally friendly alternatives to synthetic solutions that marry functionality with the flexibility, aesthetic and tactile benefits traditionally associated with man-made substances. Profiled in this issue of NOW is the Textiles Group scientists creation of the first ever natural wool breathable membrane fabric, which repels the elements and absorbs and transmits moisture vapour away from the body. Mimicking natures lotus leaf technology, the superhydrophobic fabric will have significant applications in outdoor clothing. A good example of the work were doing for farmers is in minimising problems like fly strike on sheep - were using textile developments to create better solutions there as well. Vital to getting our technology to market is the work of our Textile & Material Testing Unit, which is New Zealands only textile IANZaccredited testing service for a myriad of tests including colourfastness and flammability. They not only test but also provide advice about the right tests to do and, at a customers request, help them interpret the results. Like all parts of our group, their work is grounded in solid science, demonstrating that while market responsiveness is key, equally important is a strong focus on adherence to rigorous testing regimes. Throughout the integration period of AgResearch and Canesis, theres been a real energy, enthusiasm and incredible focus amongst our team. Theres a boundless energy for us wanting to create the next big thing, the sort of passion you dont necessarily associate with scientists. This is already leading to big benefits for our organisation and big outcomes for our clients. As General Manager of the Textiles Group, Im proud of what were achieving as a worldleading group in wool science and product and process innovation I hope that the rest of New Zealand is proud of us too.

Great ideas dont happen in isolation and collaboration is the most efficient way to meld the best of textile science and smart technologies.

For more information: robert.finch@agresearch.co.nz

Imagine a natural wool fabric that both repels and absorbs water - all in an environmentally friendly process.

Arthurs Pass, Canterbury - wearing a concept windproof, waterproof, breathable jacket made of wool

Breathing easier with natural technology

Mimicking natures lotus leaf technology is the key to AgResearch scientists creating the first ever natural wool breathable membrane fabric, which repels, absorbs and transmits moisture.
The overall aim has been to create a natural wool fabric that is both able to repel water and transmit water vapour, all in an environmentally friendly production process, says Senior Scientist Ian McFarlane. These dual properties make the fabric groundbreaking and, although many patents exist, the AgResearch fabric is unique because the fabric is made without using synthetic materials. Its the first really high performance protective fabric to be made from natural products. External water cannot penetrate the fabric yet vapour on the inside can move out of the fabric - thus maintaining the fabrics breathing properties, says Research Leader Dr Ali Azam, the projects brainchild. While some big brand names out there have created breathable membrane garments, none have come up with an all-natural waterproof, windproof, breathable fabric system that is also water repelling on the outside. The AgResearch work also improves on other fabrics as - together with the problem that fluorocarbons are frequently deployed during manufacturing - todays synthetic breathable membrane garments dont actually work that well. Gutters have to be inserted into the fabric to let perspiration out because the synthetic material transpires only a very small amount of personal moisture. In contrast, AgResearchs natural wool, mattfinish fabric doesnt leave you in a sweat while keeping you warm, comfortable and dry its essentially water and windproof. Wool naturally absorbs moisture and breathes. To create the fabric Ian, Azam and the team have maximised the natural attributes of wool fibre and combined the fabrics natural breathability with nano-technology concepts (see story, page 15) to create a highly functional fabric technology that is comfortable and provides a high level of protection against the worst weather conditions. So whats with the lotus leaf? Ian McFarlane explains. When a droplet of water forms on the lotus leaf it doesnt wet the leaf at all. The water just sits in a ball and runs off the surface of the leaf. AgResearch scientists have mimicked this lotus leaf technology in their specially constructed wool fabric through the implementation of nano-science approaches. This has enabled very high water repellency attributes to be achieved. The real challenge has been to develop these highly functional attributes in the fabric, whilst retaining highly desirable aesthetics, good durability and resistance to wear and tear all this is helped by the fact that everything happens at a nano-scale level. There are still a couple of technical challenges to overcome and once they are accomplished, commercialisation of this new high-tech breathable fabric will be just around the corner. Theres an awful lot of interest from international manufacturers of outdoor and high performance sportswear, and early concept garments have already been produced. To date, Australian Wool Innovation has been co-investing in this exciting development and they have expressed a great deal of satisfaction with the rapid progress and achievement so far. The success of the yearlong project has hinged on nano-technology and biomimetics - the concept of taking ideas from nature and implementing them in another technology. Azam, who worked in a nano-technology lab in the States before joining AgResearch, elaborates. We know that nature can teach us so much. One example is spiders making silk fibre. We dont know exactly how they make it, but spider silk is quite a bit stronger than any other thread. Looking to mimic the way those spiders produce that thread is one of the applications of biomimetics. In their creation of new, high performance natural wool breathable fabrics, these scientists have the simple yet complex lotus leaf to thank.

In their creation of new, high performance natural wool breathable fabrics, these scientists have the simple yet complex lotus leaf to thank.

For more information: ian.mcfarlane@agresearch.co.nz

Fabric thats easy care, lightweight and 100% natural no wonder the fashion industry is excited!

Natural easy care fabric going through the crabbing process in which fabric is flat set by running it (under tension) over cylinders through hot and then cold water to prevent it from shrinking

Innovative uses for natural easy care fabrics

Long summer days at the office will soon be more comfortable thanks to new lightweight, easy care, pure wool AgResearch-developed fabric that is perfect for business shirts.
The fabric is based on pioneering yarn technology that spins wool into a lighter-weight, singles worsted yarn. And its a giant leap forward current manufacturing processes typically can only weave two single yarns twisted together, creating a fabric thats too bulky and heavy for lightweight business wear such as shirts. Potential applications in corporate and fashion clothing manufacture are about to be realised, as the new technology satisfies market demand for fabric thats easy care, lightweight, looks good, and is great to wear for all-round comfort. The fabrics benefits seem endless in addition to being lightweight, easy care and pure wool, it has natural stretch, feels good, and drapes and breathes well, and also boasts a UV protection value of 25-50. There are also production benefits there is no need for chemical shrinkresist treatments to eliminate fabric shrinkage so its kinder on the environment and less costly to produce. Indeed, the unique wool shirting fabric, dubbed NEC (natural easy care), has already caught the eye of top European fashionistas, including wellknown Italian designer and manufacturer, Nino Cerutti. Sydney-based designer Jayson Brunsdon has also identified potential applications. The inventive technology brings added value to the infinite benefits of wool, say Senior Scientist Dr Surinder Tandon and Section Manager Dr Peter Ingham, who have testdriven prototype NEC shirts. Its absolutely fabulous to wear. Cotton when youre sweaty is hot, tends to cling a bit and gets wet. This doesnt. Its beautifully cool because wool absorbs around 33% moisture before it gets wet on the surface, whereas cotton only absorbs 12 or 13%. Wool fabric has very good
Dr Surinder Tandon (right) and Les Duckmanton examine an easy care fabric after crabbing

technology. Grooved rollers split the wool strand into micro-yarns comprising tightly interlocked fibres to give the yarn its high abrasion resistance and clean look. The projects funder, Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) has already established commercial partnerships with companies to produce the fabric in countries including China, Japan, Korea and Mexico. Over the past 21 months, Surinder has been working with manufacturing mills in these countries to fit the specially designed rollers to existing spinning frames and to conduct fabric production trials. Its all part of the technology transfer process that will see the NEC fabrics produced internationally for the apparel industry. In addition to the shirting fabric, the NEC technology is being used for easy care wool trousering (with a slightly denser weave) and suiting products.

moisture vapour transport - it absorbs on one side and transports moisture vapour out to the atmosphere on the other, and it does it much faster than cotton. Its easy to illustrate how far the technology has come. The fabric weight of a traditional, heavy wool bush shirt is around 300 g/m2 the new easy care shirting fabric is around 145 g/m2. Three research innovations have made it all possible, according to Surinder. Firstly, theres the creation of a fine single yarn with strength and abrasion resistance high enough to take the stresses of weaving; secondly, innovations in the weaving process itself to achieve a tight and compact fabric structure; and thirdly, adaptations to the finishing process to create a softer, flat finish with exceptionally high dimensional stability and natural stretch. The singles worsted yarn is created by specially designed rollers that are easily retrofitted to an existing spinning frame, making it easy and cost effective for industry to adopt the new

The unique wool shirting fabric has caught the eye of top European fashionistas, including well-known Italian designer and manufacturer, Nino Cerutti.

For more information: surinder.tandon@agresearch.co.nz

Harnessing New Zealand bio-materials research talent into a world-class capability.

The harakeke plant

Uniquely kiwi approach to environmental concerns

As environmental worries around product end-of-life issues grow across the world, AgResearch is teaming up with other concerned organisations to develop a uniquely kiwi approach to the problem.
Biopolymer Network Ltd (BPN) - a collaborative powerhouse of kiwi expertise from Crown Research Institutes, AgResearch, Crop & Food Research and Scion - is looking at ways to create New Zealand-branded bio-based composite products. These kinder-to-theenvironment solutions aim to reduce our use of landfills and ultimately make life on earth more sustainable. Dr Claire McGowan, the new CEO of BPN, has been involved in the development of the New Zealand biotechnology industry for some time, and was attracted to her new role by the opportunities offered through the three organisations collaborative approach. BPN allows us to pull together New Zealand bio-materials research talent into a worldclass capability. There is a lot of energy and enthusiasm in the BPN team to grow the biomaterials industry. By building on our nations historical strengths, we have an opportunity to further develop into an international force in biopolymers and biocomposites, while at the same time supporting the growth of new sustainable businesses here. Under the BPN umbrella, AgResearchs textile capabilities are linked up with the polymer and non-textile fibre (i.e. wood) capabilities of Crop & Food Research and Scion. The result is a growing understanding of how natural New Zealand-grown fibres (like harakeke, hemp and linseed) can be mixed with resin to create more environmentally friendly composite products for a raft of industries including interior decor, furnishings and the automotive sector. Most conventional composites are made of synthetic resins reinforced with glass fibres and you cant recover energy from them, says AgResearch Senior Engineer Murray Taylor. When the glass fibres are heated they melt and contaminate the energy recovery equipment. So, in the end they go straight to the landfill thats about all you can do with them. BPN is exploring the potential for natural fibres to replace energy-intensive glass fibre reinforcements. It is also looking at creating a New Zealand bio-resin, although at this stage the natural fibres are mixed with synthetic resins. The BPNs pooled expertise is funded by the Foundation for Research, Science and Technology (FRST). BPN researchers are seeking to uncover the potential of bio-based reinforcements and resins throughout the production process from growing products on the land to the finished product and its disposal. A strong commercial imperative is inherent throughout BPNs R &D process, with a focus on the development of low-cost and environmentally-sound production processes that minimise water and energy use. Industry links - crucial to BPNs success have already been established with growers and harvesters. We are also working with manufacturing industries that can process the fibres and resins into something useful, says Textile Scientist Peter Brorens, who works with Murray on the project. Murray and Peter are mindful of the need to create holistic solutions that meet not only the needs of consumers but, indeed, the people and companies involved in the entire production process. Historically weve always partnered with industry. When you partner with someone you have to take on their drivers in order to sustain a relationship and develop something thats useful for them. So, at the end of the day its about creating wealth and doing that through New Zealand industry, says Murray. BPN partner Scion agrees that the mix between research and pragmatic industry application is vital. This is the sort of partnership we actively seek, says Alan Fernyhough, Unit Manager, Biomaterials Engineering at Scion. When Scion was looking to extend its work on New Zealand natural fibres for biocomposites, we surveyed the New Zealand academic and research scene and found very little activity happening in the same direction as we were going. We saw immediately that AgResearch and Crop & Food Research had some key synergies, which complemented our capabilities very well. Collaboration is key - new ideas come out of new possibilities that are developed together.

These kinder-to-theenvironment solutions aim to reduce our use of landfills and ultimately make life on earth more sustainable.

For more information: murray.taylor@agresearch.co.nz

The search is on for a wire that will behave like a fabric yarn, yet is strong enough not to break and can flex many times without becoming fatigued.

Prototype of the protective glove intended for use in the meat industry

Textiles that talk

A heated sock that keeps your feet warm, a protective glove that warns workers theyre too close to the blade and a conductive vest for navy ship gunners that tells the bridge theyre hit may sound like futuristic TV science fiction, but at AgResearch its all in a days work.
In a FRST-funded project (Foundation for Research, Science and Technology), scientists Stewart Collie, Ian McFarlane and technician Maryann van der Werf, are delving into the development of smart textiles, using conductive yarns that respond to stimuli and react accordingly. Senior Scientist Ian McFarlane explains. There are as many applications as you can think of for fabrics, garments and textiles that can respond to some sort of outside stimuli or be tracked to know where they are. The present focus of the two-year project is the development of a conductive yarn with textile characteristics that can be put into a garment. The yarn needs to be flexible, yet able to carry significant current so that it can be applied to either a heating pad or sensing device. The search is on for a wire that will behave like a fabric yarn, yet is strong enough not to break and can flex many times without becoming fatigued, says Stewart. Its not hard to see that the key to this projects success is the interaction between electronics and textiles, but it all starts with the conductive yarn. Initially, the team experimented with assembling extremely fine conductive threads via a braided yarn structure, wrapping it in polyester or a non-cut, non-stretch material such as ultra-high density polyethylene. The team also experimented with knitting glove fingers out of conductive yarns - add the circuitry and presto theres a glove with conductive fingers so when a workers hand gets close to a metal blade, a saw turns off. The crux is the conductive yarn that is communicating with the electrical fields being generated. And there are some potentially big applications, particularly for New Zealands food processing industries. In the meat industry, for example, people are working 10-hour shifts cutting up a meat carcass using a massive band knife. If a serious cut happens, theres the personal impact on the worker, but also the meat industry is required to cover rehabilitation costs. If there was a glove with a warning light and its going off three times in an hour, you can say well look, you are getting too close to the blade too often. Knock off or go and have a break. Other applications are a little bit more out there - a navy ship vest, for example, that sends a message I am hit with a bullet and uses a radio frequency ID (RFID) scanning system to transmit information about the location of the incident back to a ships bridge. Theres also the more down-to-earth creation of a heated sock, developed by Stewarts team in a project for Australian Wool Innovation. The sock uses yarns with high levels of surface conductivity and others with higher electrical resistance, which heat up once a current is passed through them. A different concept from the glove and vest, the rechargeable sock features a basic battery and control system. While the heated sock could be a popular Fathers Day present, the most likely practical application is in medicine for the relief of circulatory conditions such as Raynauds phenomenon, where blood vessels in the extremities - like the fingers and toes constrict, usually in response to cold temperatures and/or emotional stress, and result in discoloration of the skin. The whole project is about blending the tangible benefits of textiles with the latest electronic advances to deliver a product that people want, as Maryann explains. Everybody interacts with textiles and that is probably the advantage that we have as a platform to deliver things from. You can build sensors into the textile and they wont interfere with how people carry out their normal duties. Textiles are a very good substrate to build other functionalities onto if you want to collect data about people, what they are doing or how healthy they are. You can deliver some kind of benefit to a person via the textile without interfering with what they are doing. Thats the underlying philosophy behind the field of smart textiles.

The whole project is about blending the tangible benefits of textiles with the latest electronic advances.

For more information: stewart.collie@agresearch.co.nz

11

Levelling the playing field for wool manufacturers presently being left behind in the contract carpet and upholstery markets.

The product of the metal-free dyeing process - lightfast, environmentally friendly wool

Metal-free dyeing gets the green tick

Manufacturers of woollen carpet and upholstery may be able to access whole new markets thanks to an AgResearch project that is looking to process wool as naturally as possible but make it as colourfast as the best synthetics.
AgResearchs metal-free dyeing team is focused on improving the lightfastness, or fade resistance, of carpet and upholstery, so that manufacturers using wool are no longer left behind when those using some synthetics can give a ten-year lightfastness guarantee. Being able to offer that guarantee for wool carpets would level the playing field for wool processors and manufacturers who are presently being left behind in the lucrative contract carpet and upholstery markets, especially those that have traditionally been big for wool, like transport and tourism. The breakthrough is a metal-free dyeing process for wool carpets - developed by AgResearch Senior Scientist Steve McNeil and his team - which has greatly improved lightfastness and also gets the green tick. To achieve the best possible lightfastness with conventional wool dyes, it has been necessary to use metal-containing dyes that have a very small chromium or cobalt content. But these dyes can release undesirable cobalt and chromium into the effluent that is discharged by the mill. AgResearchs innovative metal-free dyeing process uses a special class of dye that forms pigments inside the wool fibres, to achieve significantly higher lightfast qualities than conventional wool dyes. All the testing work is being carried out by AgResearchs Textile & Material Testing Unit. As our consumers have increasingly higher standards for the products they buy, our testing group is doing more and more stringent tests, says Steve. You could say that they havent liked doing the lightfastness testing for this project because the samples weve created have been very lightfast, he jokes. One to eight scales are the standards for lightfastness and eight is the best, and we are now achieving better than seven. The testing staff are pulling their hair out because these samples take so long before they fade four times as long as usual. Were well on the way to achieving a more environmentally friendly way of high performance dyeing, he adds. The three-year project has captured funding from organisations across three different countries Meat & Wool New Zealand, Australian Wool Innovation, and the British Wool Marketing Board who all jointly hold the intellectual property rights. The environmental awareness in the international market, particularly in the European Unions eco-labels is a key driver for this project, says Ian Cuthbertson from Meat & Wool New Zealand. There is demand for more and more stringent controls over the use of heavy metals, which traditionally have given wool the best yielding and most stable colour. Weve needed to find alternatives to the use of heavy metals in wool dyeing in order to maintain the competitiveness of our wool products in the international marketplace. Some industry trials are underway including those that began in Europe in May. Overseas commercialisation partners are also lined up. However, like all AgResearch projects, the metal-free dyeing team went through a number of key stages before they could even begin to take the idea to market. We started with the ideas phase, looking at how to tackle this industry problem, considering options and searching the literature, says Steve. As part of the R &D process we assigned either a tick or a cross to each of the possible alternatives. Where theres a tick we tried them out - just on the beaker scale at this stage not worrying too much about cost, feasibility, or its environmental friendliness - we just wanted to know it worked. And then we did the optimising and refining, which led to the scaling up. At the scaling up stage, the research moved from laboratory-scale dyeing equipment to the pilot-scale dye house on the Lincoln campus where kilogram lots of wool - instead of gram quantities - were dyed. Now, Steve is collaborating with a UK company that makes fabric for the transport industry - the company is testing some of its own yarn which has been treated with the non-metal dye. If the trials continue to go well, its likely that two major European companies will launch the product commercially in mid-2008, if not sooner. A key target market is likely to be transport upholstery and specialist carpet areas where wools excellent flammability performance is a real plus. This represents good news for the New Zealand wool industry.

AgResearchs innovative metal-free dyeing process uses a special class of dye that forms pigments inside the wool fibres.

For more information: steve.mcneil@agresearch.co.nz

13

AgResearch is leading the way among those looking at how nano-technology can create better textile products.

A microscope photo of red dye trapped in a new coating material. The coating makes dye more resistant to sunlight fading, and could be used to attach vitamins, fragrances, or other functional materials to textiles.

A little goes a long way

The nano world is taking science by storm, and AgResearch textile scientists are tapping into this universe of miniscule particles to create high performance textiles with big potential for the carpet and fashion industries.
A nano-particle is less than one thousand millionth of a metre in size and cant be seen even under a light microscope since it can be smaller than the wavelength of light, says Dr Peter Ingham, Textiles Science & Technology Section Manager. Scientists around the world are learning how to manipulate these nanoparticles, with revolutionary results. AgResearch scientists were the first cab off the rank among those investigating ways in which nano-technology could create better textile products. Because we can control these nano-materials at such a fine scale, we can get really large effects on textile fibres with only a small amount of material, Peter says. In 2005, Peters team, including Senior Scientist Steve McNeil, developed Lanasan NCF (Nano Carpet Finish), which is probably New Zealands first ever commercial application of nanotechnology to wool carpets. Commercialised with venture partner, Swiss multinational Clariant, Lanasan NCF produces a high performance carpet with stronger yarn and more stable pile. We found we could induce a whole range of benefits into the carpet by treating wool with inert nano-particles. The nano-particles attach themselves to individual wool fibres, which increases the fibre friction and blocks dirt. The nano finish makes the surface of the fibres a little bit more like sandpaper - but not perceptible to the touch - so that theres more friction and the yarns are a lot stronger, Peter says. Its been a successful development and application of nano-technology to achieve a practical and commercial product that meets market needs. There are some highly sophisticated nano initiatives in areas like electronics, but few are focused on textiles. This has been about taking an existing nano product, carrying out some research to determine if we could apply it to wool, looking at what we could do to modify and further develop it, then finding a whole range of benefits, and optimising those benefits. Applying nano-technology to the creation of high performance clothing and upholstery is next. Professor Jim Johnston is the Director of the Gordon Centre for Applied Chemistry at Victoria Universitys School of Chemical and Physical Sciences, with extensive experience in nanomaterials and nano-technology. Jim came up with the novel idea of using gold nano-particles as stable, colourfast colourants on wool fibres for the high-end textiles and fashion market. Jim and his graduate students are carrying out laboratory-scale development work at the university and working with Peter on the development and potential market opportunities. Steve assisted with stability tests on early samples and will be involved in collaborative larger-scale development work. When certain metals, such as gold, are in the form of tiny nano-particles, they interact differently with light, Jim says. The actual colour reflected depends critically on the particle size and shape. Red, purple, yellow, green and blue colours are possible. By controlling these parameters and developing ways to firmly bind the nano-particles onto the fibre surface, it is possible to produce wool of different colours, dyed with pure gold. Steve adds that gold particles may also, one day, solve the problem of fading carpets. Dyes are normally organic molecules, so any molecule will break down in time with sunlight. Because they absorb energy, some of the chemical bonds break and dyes lose their colour. So, you can never get a perfectly lightfast dye - but because of golds inert properties, gold-dyed fibres would have a very high colourfastness. The marketing benefits of using gold in apparel are already apparent, Steve says, and there is interest from high-end fashion houses. Everybody wants to be associated with gold. Nano-technology and nano-materials offer the promise of imparting new properties to wool that add further value. Ultimately we could see high-end fashion garments in a wide range of colours which are associated with the value of gold. To keep an eye on the progress of Steve and the team, look no further than the future carpet beneath your feet, the catwalks of our fashion capitals and beyond. Other potential nano-technology-based products include stab-resistant fabrics, and clothing that releases vitamins into the skin. Fabrics that contain viable plant cells are also possible so not only will you look good, but youll be taking care of the environment, too!

Other potential nano-technology-based products include stabresistant fabrics, and clothing that releases vitamins into the skin.

For more information: peter.ingham@agresearch.co.nz

15

Its a whole new generation of softer, finer merino next to skin wear and its sure to break new boundaries in the apparel industry.

Intimate apparel is one intended use for the next to skin fabric

Goodbye prickly wool, hello high fashion!

AgResearch scientists are bringing to market revolutionary new next to skin wear created from fine merino wool.
Theyve secured funding from Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) to develop a whole new generation of softer, finer merino next to skin wear and are discovering new takes on wool, one of New Zealands most traditional exports. AgResearch scientists Ian McFarlane Dr Surinder Tandon and technician Maryann van der Werf, are exploring whether a super-fine merino wool yarn can be harnessed to produce a range of woven and knitted fabrics that look sure to break new boundaries in the apparel industry. The Textiles Science & Technology section is assessing the yarns performance and developing it into fabrics and garments that will bring new consumer propositions in the future, Ian says. Its a lot, lot finer. For example, wool underwear in the past has been fairly coarse, but we can go a great deal finer, and the fabrics were exploring also have good stretch and recovery, important attributes for meeting increased consumer comfort expectations. Its quick drying when you wash it because the fibres are spaced out more than other merino fabrics, giving better warmth for weight. It also has better durability. As a base layer beside the skin, its a winner because of its softness (its not prickly to wear), incredible fineness, and it also has the capacity to absorb moisture (the wool fibre absorbs water vapour from perspiration) and impart warmth. A fabric with the unique benefits of wool and the softness and texture of cotton indications are that its uses will be many in both woven and knitted apparel, including fine gauge high performance sporting underwear, intimate apparel, active wear, sportswear, and fashion formal wear. There are also likely to be applications in socks and other accessories such as shawls. The new developments tie in nicely with the trend towards producing seamless garments for greater comfort. The new yarn opens the door to make fabrics with intricate pattern effects, including fancy printing (such as Devor screen printing on intimate and fashion apparel) on very fine wool seamless garments. Other aspects of the research are looking at wool colouration (improving the ability to dye wool to bright colours), testing fabric combinations with fibres such as cotton, silk and lycra, and looking at the impact different finishing processes could have on the final product. The new yarn has been an excellent and exciting development, making fabrics that have great qualities such as its super-lightweight, enhanced comfort and outdoor performance properties. We are very pleased with it, says AWI Senior Programme Manager for R &D, Dr Nathan Ly. Nathan says AWI recognises the potential for the yarn to take wool fibre into markets where it hasnt been able to go before. Figures indicate that the merino fine wool next to skin apparel industry uses around 65 million kilograms of fine wool annually - and that this demand is increasing by approximately 6% per annum. AgResearch scientists say theyve tackled the fine wool industry with a fresh approach, acknowledging every angles potential, be it fabric constructions or structures, chemical finishes for improved functionality, fibre blends or design. Our research shows that fabric made from this yarn is very price competitive to manufacture and garment production efficiencies are better than with previous yarns. The fabric performs better. Its finer than weve ever been able to go before - with its highly sought after consumer attributes its going to have a tremendous impact on the knitwear and woven garment markets, says Ian.

Creating a merino wool fabric that has superior fineness opens up many more options around how the fabric can be used.

For more information: surinder.tandon@agresearch.co.nz

17

An innovative product with the potential to help keep some European carpet manufacturers internationally competitive.

Anthrenus Verbasci Carpet Beetle with three larvae

AgResearch beats carpet bugbear

An ingredient found in common household cleaners may hold the key to keeping UK and European carpets moth and beetle free thanks to innovative AgResearch technology.
The targeted products under development at AgResearch are likely to have big spin-offs for the UK and European carpet industries, which presently face prohibitive environmental restrictions. The project has largely been funded by Wool Research Organisation of New Zealand (WRONZ), the intellectual property rights holders, who approached AgResearch for ideas and solutions. Potential markets have already been identified and its expected that the new product will have good uptake in the UK and Europe, where the carpet industry is eagerly seeking innovative environmentally safe production inputs. The reason WRONZ funded this project is because of the unique problem of wool fibre being attacked by certain moths and beetles and the environmental issues that some solutions exacerbate. Weve needed to find an environmentally acceptable wool treatment solution that the market is happy about and that also fully solves the problem of insect resistance, says Ian Cuthbertson, R &D Portfolio Manager for WRONZ. In particular, the research thats looking at developing a long-term non-insecticidal solution is important for maintaining the carpet industrys international competitiveness into the future. AgResearch Textiles Science & Technology Section Manager Dr Peter Ingham explains that its getting to the point where some European factories cannot treat carpets and big fines are being handed out. In an inland UK town, maybe eight carpet mills are all discharging into the one sewage treatment works, which treats the effluent and discharges it into the river, and they must keep the concentration in the river to 10 times less than the no-effect level by law. The industry has traditionally used permethrin, a broad-spectrum insecticide, to control insects that feed on wool but it doesnt meet some international effluent discharge standards. The discovery by AgResearch Scientist Matthew Sunderland that two alternative products (one of them a component in fairly common household cleaners) protect wool from damage by insects offers an environmentally friendly alternative. Peter says that while there are millions and millions of insects, only about three moth and three beetle species have developed the ability to digest wool and keratin and, in carpet production, permethrin has been used to control them. The trouble is, it not only kills these insects its also toxic to aquatic invertebrates in rivers, affecting the growth of insects that fish feed on - the first stage of river life in the ecological chain. There have also been resistance issues with permethrin and increasing amounts have to be used. Initially, to overcome these kinds of issues, AgResearch scientists used a new generation of insecticide branded as Mystox CMP by commercialisation partner Catomance Technologies Ltd, which has a low environmental impact on waterways and is effective in producing insect resistant carpets. However, their latest and unique solution is not even an insecticide. Matthews two readily biodegradable products achieve what permethrin does, without the same harmful effects. They dont kill the insects but they do protect carpet wool from being eaten by insects. The whole approach to carpet protection is quite different. While an industrial trial is close at hand, tests are still to be done to ensure the products fastness to shampooing and light, but initially, there are good results, Peter says. Normally, when we test a new insect resist agent, we put it through three shampooings and a lightfastness exposure. Typically we lose half the agent in that time because were using insecticides, which are designed to break down. But weve found this new material has virtually no losses because its not designed to break down in light. Its a totally different type of molecule and it readily binds onto wool, like a dye. This means that its not necessary to put twice as much on to allow for losses over 10 or 15 years. Weve also found that these two products act as an excellent dye bath levelling agent so its a dual-purpose thing, Matthew comments. Its also likely that the product may have applications in the apparel industry - in the manufacture of mens suits, for example. I think, from our point of view, one of the most fulfilling things is seeing something go through to market. We have traditionally always tried to generate commercial products and so to me, when they are commercially launched, thats the most satisfying part.

Weve needed to find an environmentally acceptable wool treatment solution that the market is happy about.

For more information: peter.ingham@agresearch.co.nz

19

AgResearch Ruakura Ruakura Research Centre East Street Private Bag 3123 Hamilton 3240 Phone +64 7 856 2836 Fax +64 7 838 5012 AgResearch Grasslands and Hopkirk Research Institute Grasslands Research Centre Tennent Drive Private Bag 11008 Palmerston North 4442 Phone +64 6 356 8019 Fax +64 6 351 8032 [Hopkirk: Phone +64 6 351 8600 Fax +64 6 353 7853]

AgResearch Lincoln Cnr Springs Road & Gerald Street Private Bag 4749 Christchurch 8140 Phone +64 3 321 8800 Fax +64 3 321 8811 AgResearch Invermay Invermay Agricultural Centre Puddle Alley Private Bag 50034 Mosgiel 9053 Phone +64 3 489 3809 Fax +64 3 489 3739 AgResearch Wallaceville Wallaceville Animal Research Centre Ward Street PO Box 40063 Upper Hutt 5140 Phone +64 4 529 0300 Fax +64 4 529 0380

www.agresearch.co.nz