Professional Documents
Culture Documents
2011
your life
25
elemental
knits
the PERFECT
sweater
1 easy sweater
4 custom ways
ready-to-wear style at
Imperial Stock Ranch
get INSPIRED
SIMPLIFY
contents
features
10 Yarn Notebook
52 Technique Lab
Chained Down
by Larissa Gibson
12 In the Details
Close Up
98 A Knitters World
32 On Design
Ribbing Inspiration
by Deborah Newton
75 Ruffle, Drape
e,
and Pleat
16 Tern Vest
76 Pleated Pullover
by Charles Gandy
18 Chickadee Cardigan
by Pam Allen
by Zo Scheffy
19 Lark Cardigan
78 Multi-Drape
by Pam Allen
Kimono
20 Osprey
premiere
15 The Perfect
Sweater
2011
projects
by Annie Modesitt
Hooded Cardigan
79 Gathered Collar
by Pam Allen
Pullover
by Katya Frankel
37 On The Edge
80 Tucked Skirt
38 Fitted Jacket
by Hana Jason
with Cables
byy Anniken Allis
39 Shaped Capelet
with Braided Cables
byy Erica Patberg
81 Exposed Seam
Pullover
by Eunny Jang
41 Cable Trimmed
Jacket with Hood
byy Lisa Myers
103 Assembly
Required
104 Off-Rib Cardigan
by Stefanie Japel
57 The Elements
of Knitting
by Wendy Bernard
by Heather Keiser
60 Slipped-Stitch
n
107 Selvedge Cardigan
Mini Dress
by Amy Christoffers
by Hana Jason
70 Book Excerpt
Knitting Off the Axis
Becca
by Mathew Gnagy
by Sandi Rosner
departments
2
5
136
139
142
143
144
Stra
ands
Firstt Gl
G ance
G osssa
Gl
sary
S urrces
So
ce
es for Supplie
es
Advert
rtisers Index
Proj
ojec
ct Index
Fini
Fi
nish
shiing
On the Cover
over:: Sh
S ap
aped
ed Cap
apel
elet
et wit
ith
h
Brai
Br
aide
ded
d Cabl
Cables
e , pa
page 39.
This
Th
is Pag
age
e: Sk
Sky
y Sw
Sweater, page 106.
Ph
hotog
ogra
rap
phy by
phy
y Joe Hancock.
strands
ED I T ORI AL
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Karin Strom
EDITOR
Eunny Jang
MANAGING EDITOR
Allison Mackin
ASSISTANT EDITOR
Eunny
C REATI V E SERV I C ES
DESIGN Pamela Norman
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Trish Faubion
PRODUCTION COORDINATORS Dean Howes, Lee Ann Short
PRODUCTION EDITOR Nancy Arndt
P HOTOG RA P HY
PROJECTS Joe Hancock
DEPARTMENTS Larissa Gibson
PHOTO STYLING Pam Chavez
HAIR + MAKEUP Kathryn MacKay
ILLUSTRATION Gayle Ford, Marjorie Leggitt, Lori Gayle
VIDEO MANAGER Garrett Evans
P U BL I SHI N G
GROUP PUBLISHER John P. Bolton
MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR Julie Macdonald
ADVERTISING MANAGERS Marcy Bradford, Diane Kocal
AD TRAFFICKER Melissa Marie Brown
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING Stephanie Griess
MARKETING DIRECTOR fiber division Mary Kincannon
MARKETING MANAGER Annie Hartman Bakken
SVP CONSUMER MARKETING Bob Kaslik
CIRCULATION MANAGER Jodi Smith
CONSUMER MARKETING BUSINESS MANAGER Tammy Gorham
BUSINESS MANAGER fiber division Dawn Stewart
Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only.
Weve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents
of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have
questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online at
interweaveknitwear.com/corrections. knit.wear does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services,
or views advertised in knit.wear. Nor does knit.wear evaluate the
advertisers claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own
judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views
advertised in knit.wear.
knit.wear (ISSN 1088-3622) is published annually by Interweave Press
LLC, 201 E. 4th St., Loveland, CO 80537-5655. (970) 669-7672. USPS
#017-249. Periodicals postage paid at Loveland, CO 80538, and additional
mailing offices. All contents of this issue of knit.wear are copyrighted by
Interweave Press LLC, 2011. All rights reserved. Projects and information
are for inspiration and personal use only. Reproduction in whole or in part
is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher.
Visit the Interweave website at interweave.com. For advertising information, call Julie Macdonald at (970) 613-4612, email jmacdonald@
interweave.com, or visit the website at interweave.com.
For sales information, call (800) 272-2193, email sales@interweave.com.
For editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193, email knits@interweave.com, or
write to 201 E. 4th St., Loveland, CO 80537-5655.
Retailers: If you are interested in carrying this magazine in your store
please call (866) 949-1646, email sales@interweave.com, or visit
interweaveretailer.com.
2 ||
knit.wear
TM
Larissa Gibson
the
Stephen Koenig
VP, EVENTS + EDUCATION Sara Dumford
VP, PEOPLE OPERATIONS Aaron Wilmot
Knook
MA G A Z I NES
Fiber Division Cloth, Paper, Scissors,
Handwoven, Interweave Crochet, Interweave Knits,
PieceWork, Quilting Arts, Spin.Off
ON L I N E
Knitting Daily
EDITOR Kathleen Cubley
BOOK S
PUBLISHER Stephen Koenig
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Marlene Blessing
ACQUISITIONS EDITOR Allison Korleski
t
click through\
Join the
knittingdaily.com online community for
technique discussions, editor blogs, reader
videos and galleries, patterns, and forums.
See your favorite retailer,
call 1-800-526-5111 or
visit www.leisurearts.com
premiere issue
|| 3
Save up to
25% off
multicolor interchangeables
Pattern Shown: #383 Cable 12 Pullover knit in Valley Yarns Lenox. Download Pattern Now! $2.99
with WEBS
yarn & book
discount!
yarn.com
visit our store: 75 Service Center Rd., Northampton, MA
1.800.367.9327
first glance
think
outside
the block
Lack of a real dress form got you
down? Fit, display, and thoroughly block
handknits on retail fixtures and mannequins insteadavailable in full bodies
or selected parts. Insight Design Display,
www.insightdesigndisplay.com. Yarn: SMC
Select Extra Soft Merino Fino,
www.westminsterfibers.com
premiere issue
|| 5
constructed | Two yarns bypass conventional spinning for loft without density.
1 Blue Sky Alpacas Techno is created by blowing alpaca and wool to entangle the fibers within a silk mesh. The result is
a billowy yarn that resembles roving but resists splitting and shedding, www.blueskyalpacas.com. 2 Schulana Cortina uses
a high-speed air jet to blow merino wool around a nylon core for the look, feel, and functionality of a chunky wool with an
airy, lightweight core. Distributed by Skacel, www.skacelknitting.com.
6 ||
knit.wear
www.brownsheep.com
1
3
8 ||
knit.wear
BIG MONTANA
SANDALWOOD
CARDIGAN
From POTPOURRI
Collection
VLJQXSIRUIUHH
ZHHNO\QHZVOHWWHU
tahkistacycharles.com/knitwear11
Halcyon Yarn
halcyonyarn.com 8003410282 Call for your free catalog!
Drop by our shop in Bath, Maine or follow us on Facebook & Twitter.
pieceworkmagazine.com
|| 9
yarn notebook
chained
down
by LARISSA GIBSON
10 ||
knit.wear
6
4
7
3 Berroco Link
5 Plymouth Yarn
7 S. Charles
De Aire
Collezione Eclipse
4Rowan Alpaca
Chunky
CARE Dry-clean.
premiere issue
|| 11
in the details
close up
change the closure +
change the whole look.
toggles
THE LOOK: Outerwear-, historical
costume-, or ethnic-inspired, depending
on design (simple, ornate, or knotted)
and material (chrome or wood, pewter,
or cording).
THE APPLICATION: Use on noncurling selvedges (i.e., double-knitted
or ribbed selvedges) or applied bands
that abut. Place each toggle half so the
interlocking portion just barely extends
over edge of fabric to prevent gaping.
Sew firmly to right side of fabric.
ONE BETTER: Make your own frog-type
toggles with I-cord in a matching yarn.
pins
THE LOOK: Effortless but no-nonsense.
THE APPLICATION: None at all. Overlap edges by desired amount and pin.
buttons +
buttonholes
buttons +
button loops
premiere issue
|| 13
in the details
hooks + eyes
THE LOOK: Small versions have lingerie-inspired appeal. Chunkier hardware
gives an outerwear look.
THE APPLICATION: Use on noncurling edges or with applied bands that
abut, overlap, or do not meet completely. Sew hardware firmly to wrong side
of fabric with sewing thread, checking
alignment to ensure edges will lie where
you want them.
snaps
THE LOOK: Clean and elegant. The
minimalists closure.
THE APPLICATION: Use on non-curling selvedges or with applied bands that
overlap. Sew peg side of snap to right
side of underlap; sew dimple side of snap
to wrong side of overlap to match.
knit.wear
14 ||
zippers
premiere issue
|| 15
tern vest
THE LOOK A narrow front band,
16 ||
knit.wear
sllee
e ve
eless
ss
de p
deep
V-ne
Vneck
ck
A-liine
A
n
shap
sh
ape
e
na row
narr
fron
fr
ontt
band
ba
nd
hits at
hits
wais
wa
st
crossiing
cros
g
fron
fr
onts
ts
premiere
i
iissue
||| 17
chickadee
cardigan
THE LOOK A deep front band drapes and folds
deep
V-neck
deep
front
band
A-line
shape
hits at
high hip
c os
cr
o si
s ng
fronts
sleeves
18 ||
knit.wear
lark
cardigan
THE LOOK Long, lush length shows off an A-line
silhouette. Full-length sleeves, patch pockets, a
deep front band, and a classic worsted-weight
gauge take the perfect sweater into jacket territory.
INSTRUCTIONS page 22 YARN Quince & Co. Lark
deep
V-neck
deep
front
band
d
A-line
shape
h ts at
hi
fu
ull
l hip
crossing
fronts
patch
pockets
full
llength
sleeve
es
premiere issue
|| 19
osprey
hooded
cardigan
THE LOOK Chunky-weight yarn, cropped bracelet
sleeves, and a deep hood give the perfect sweater
a casual, outdoorsy feel. INSTRUCTIONS page 28
YARN Quince & Co. Osprey
deep
deep
V-ne
Vneck
ck
attach
atta
ched
ed
hood
ho
od
deep
deep
fron
fr
ontt
band
ba
nd
A-line
A-li
ne
shap
sh
ape
e
hits
hi
ts at
high hip
high
cr
rossi
sing
ng
fron
fr
onts
ts
20 ||
knit.wear
bracel
brac
elet
et
s ee
sl
eeve
ves
A swingy A-line
silhouette, crossover
fronts that diminish
into a deep V-neck,
a folded front band,
and subtle knit/purl
texture. Everything
else is up to you.
premiere issue
|| 21
Lower Body
Lark Cardigan
FINISHED SIZE 3412 (38, 4312, 47,
||
T H E P E R F E C T S W E AT E R
tapestry needle.
GAUGE 22 sts and 30 rows = 4" in patts.
NOTES
end.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.
Pebble Rib: (odd number of sts)
22 ||
knit.wear
sleeve
17"
43 cm
2.5 cm
STITCH GUIDE
1"
Lark Cardigan
PA M A L L E N
Back
Sleeves
Pockets (make 2)
CO 25 sts. Work in Knit Rib patt until
piece measures 412" from CO, ending
with a RS row. Knit 1 WS row. Change
to Pebble Rib patt, and work even until
pocket measures 5" from CO. BO all sts
in patt. Block pockets to 412" wide and
5" high. Sew pockets to fronts, placing
each pocket 12" up from CO edge, and
4" in from center front.
Collar
With RS facing and beg where Knit Rib
transitions to Pebble Rib at lower rightfront edge, pick up and knit 124 (126,
128, 130, 132) sts along shaped right
neck edge to shoulder seam, 45 (45,
49, 49, 53) sts across back neck, and
124 (126, 128, 130, 132) sts from left
shoulder seam to transition between
patts at lower left-front edge293 (297,
305, 309, 317) sts total. NEXT ROW: (RS
of collar) K2 (selvedge sts), work Pebble
Rib patt over center 289 (293, 301, 305,
313) sts, k2 (selvedge sts). Keeping 2 sts
at each end in garter st, cont in Pebble
Rib patt until collar measures 1012"
from pick-up row, ending with a RS row
of collar. NOTE: When collar is folded
back the pebble side of collar will show
on outside. Knit 1 WS row. Change
to Knit Rib patt and work until collar
measures 11" from pick-up row. BO all
sts in patt.
Block collar, if desired. Weave in ends.
premiere issue
|| 23
Lark Cardigan
Right Front
Finishing
||
Left Front
T H E P E R F E C T S W E AT E R
PA M A L L E N
FINISHED SIZE 3312 (3812, 4212, 47,
tapestry needle.
GAUGE 23 sts and 36 rows = 4" in Pebble
Rib patt.
NOTES
24 ||
knit.wear
back
& fronts
Lower Body
2.5 cm
212"
6.5 cm
sleeve
1"
STITCH GUIDE
Chickadee Cardigan
||
T H E P E R F E C T S W E AT E R
Chickadee Cardigan
Left Front
st, k1.
ROW 2: (WS) K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end.
||
Back
Finishing
Chickadee Cardigan
Sleeves
CO 57 (59, 63, 65, 69) sts. Work in Pebble
Rib patt until piece measures 214" from
CO, ending with a WS row. INC ROW: (RS)
K1, M1, work in patt to last st, M1, k12
sts incd. Cont in patt as established, inc
1 st at each side every 12 (10, 8, 8, 6)th
row 6 (6, 10, 4, 10) times, then every 0 (8,
0, 6, 4)th row 0 (2, 0, 8, 6) times, working
incd sts into patt71 (77, 85, 91, 103) sts.
Work even in patt until sleeve measures
12 (1212, 13, 13, 1312)" from CO, ending
with a WS row. SHAPE CAP: BO 7 (7, 8, 8,
9) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then 2 (2, 2,
3, 4) sts at beg of foll 2 rows53 (59, 65,
69, 77) sts rem. DEC ROW: (RS) K2tog,
work to last 2 sts, ssk2 sts decd. Rep
Dec row every other row 10 (12, 14, 16,
19) times, then every 4th row 2 (2, 2, 2,
1) time(s), then every other row 2 (3, 4, 4,
4) times23 (23, 23, 23, 27) sts rem. BO
2 (2, 2, 2, 3) sts at beg of next 4 rows15
sts rem. BO all sts.
Right Front
Collar
T H E P E R F E C T S W E AT E R
premiere issue
|| 25
T H E P E R F E C T S W E AT E R
||
Tern Vest
tapestry needle.
GAUGE 28 sts and 40 rows = 4" in Knit
Rib patt.
NOTES
Lower Body
Using the long-tail method, CO 273
(309, 345, 385, 419) sts. Do not join.
ROW 1: (RS) Work Row 1 of Knit Rib
patt (see Stitch Guide) while placing
markers (pm) as foll: K76 (85, 95, 107,
117) right-front sts, pm for right side,
k121 (139, 155, 171, 185) back sts, pm for
left side, k76 (85, 95, 107, 117) left-front
26 ||
knit.wear
Left Front
Working on 45 (52, 60, 70, 76) left-front
sts only and keeping 2 sts at front edge
in garter st, work 1 WS row even. NEXT
ROW: (RS) BO 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) sts, work in
patt to end43 (49, 56, 65, 70) sts rem.
Work 1 WS row even. NEXT ROW: Ssk,
work in patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k22 sts
decd; 1 st at center front and armhole
edge. Cont in patt, dec 1 st at front edge
as established every 4th row 17 (17, 19,
Back
Return 105 (121, 135, 151, 169) held back
sts to needle and rejoin yarn with WS
facing. Keeping in patt, BO 2 (3, 4, 5, 6)
12"
1.3 cm
back &
fronts
PA M A L L E N
Tern Vest
Right Front
200
Fair Isle Motifs
A KNITTERS
DIREC TORY
Falling
for
Fair Isle
Mary Jane Mucklestones
200 Fair Isle Motifs offers
simple solutions to the seemingly
complex technique of stranded
colorwork. Youll be an
expert motif-maker in no time!
200 Fair Isle Motifs
A Knitters Directory
Mary Jane Mucklestone
208 pages, 8 x 8 , $24.95
ISBN: 978-1-59668-437-9
premiere issue
|| 27
||
T H E P E R F E C T S W E AT E R
Finishing
Block to measurements. Sew shoulder
seams.
Collar
With RS facing and beg at CO edge of
right front, pick up and knit 120 (125,
133, 135, 139) sts to shoulder seam, 57
(59, 59, 59, 67) sts across back neck,
and 120 (125, 133, 135, 139) sts from
shoulder seam to CO edge of left
front297 (309, 325, 329, 345) sts total.
NEXT ROW: (WS) K2 (selvedge sts), work
Row 2 of Knit Rib patt over center 293
(305, 321, 325, 341) sts, k2 (selvedge sts).
Keeping 2 sts at each end in garter st,
cont in patt until collar measures 312"
from pick-up row, ending with a WS
row. NOTE: When collar is folded back,
the predominantly purled WS of collar
fabric will show on outside.
ROW 1: (RS) K2, *k1, p1; rep from * to last
3 sts, k3.
ROW 2: (WS) K2, *p1, k1; rep from * to
Osprey Hooded
Cardigan
PA M A L L E N
FINISHED SIZE 3412 (38, 4312, 4712, 52)"
bust circumference. Sweater shown measures 38", modeled with plenty of ease.
YARN Quince & Co. Osprey (100%
American wool; 170 yd [155 m]/312 oz
[100g]): #106 birds egg, 9 (9, 10, 11, 12)
skeins.
NEEDLES Size 9 (5.5 mm): 32" circular
toend.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.
Pebble Rib: (odd number of sts)
ROW 1: (RS) K1, *p1, k1; rep from *
toend.
ROW 2: (WS) Knit.
28 ||
knit.wear
Lower Body
Using the long-tail method, CO 181 (195,
215, 231, 247) sts. Do not join. SET-UP
front edge.
ROWS 6 AND 8: Work even.
ROW 7: Work in patt to 3 sts before
front edge.
ROWS 1012: Work even.
info@westminsterfibers.com
www.knitrowan.com
|| 29
30 ||
knit.wear
Sleeves
CO 39 (41, 43, 45, 47) sts. Work in Pebble
Rib patt until piece measures 3" from
CO, ending with a WS row. Change to
Knit Rib patt, and shape sleeve as foll:
INC ROW: (RS) K1, M1, work in patt to
sleeve
back &
fronts
13"
2.5 cm
33 cm
1"
Back
Right Front
Finishing
T H E P E R F E C T S W E AT E R
||
Left Front
in patt to end.
ROW 3: Work in patt to wrapped st, work
2 sts, k2.
ROW 2: (WS) K2, *p1, k1; rep from * to
premiere issue
|| 31
||
T H E P E R F E C T S W E AT E R
on design
2
1
ribbing
inspiration
by DEBORAH NEWTON
32 ||
knit.wear
3 A crisp pima cotton yarn (Cascade Ultra Pima) makes this eyelet
rib stand out. Each eyelet wale is
worked over 5 sts and has a pretty
open quality. The fabric has a soft
elasticity that is suited to draped
garments. In a more springy
wool, this rib would draw in more
strongly.
premiere issue
|| 33
on design
Textured ribbings are those that incorporate elements of knit/purl patterning within the ribs themselves. They have
all the lushness of a fabric that draws in,
with the added attraction of a pebbly surface. See Swatches 2 and 4 on page 32.
If you want to experiment with adding
some simple texture to a large rib, try
working some seed stitch at the center of
4-stitch (or wider) knit wales, adjacent to
purl wales of any width. Or add some occasional horizontal garter ridges, regularly
or irregularly placed, to a plain ribbed
pattern.
Balanced Ribs
Multiple of 7 sts + 3
to end
Double rib: multiple of 4 sts
EVERY ROW *K2, p2, rep from *
to end
33 rib: multiple of 6 sts
Many ribbings feature yarnover elements, which can add an eyelet or lacelike
effect, while at the same time retaining a
ribbed quality. In fact, any narrow stockinette stitchbased lace pattern can be
worked in panels, divided by purl stitches
to create an openwork lace ribbing. See
Swatch 3 on page 32.
34 ||
knit.wear
end p3
to end
44 rib: multiple of 8 sts
to end
Eyelet Rib
ROW 1 (RS) *P2, k5, rep from *,
end p2
ROW 2 *K2, p5, rep from *, end k2
ROW 3 *P2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk,
end k3
Repeat these 4 rows
Slipped-stitch Rib
Multiple of 5 sts + 2
ROW 1 (RS) *P2, k1, sl1wyib, k1,
rep from *, end p2
ROW 2 *K2, p3, rep from *, end k2
Technical Considerations
Needle size + tension
end k3
Multiple of 7 sts + 2
Combining different ribbings for contrast can create a unique fabric: Alternate
a lace rib with a cable, or with a textured
rib, or anything else you can dream of.
As a designer, I always scrutinize both
sides of a knitted fabric. Lately I am fond
of what is traditionally the wrong side of
laceit has a more textured, unexpected
quality. So if I were to use the wrong side
of a lacy rib pattern as the right side, the
plain knit wales (which are purl wales
on the right side) would be predominant
a
c
d
b
Finishing
under the bust. I like to work vertical columns of ribbing at the sides of a
sweater, too: this gives a garment a fitted
look without any increasing or decreasing. See Sketch c.
A sophisticated way to use ribbing
is to move an area of ribbing across the
fabric to form a sash-like motif. Work a
decrease before your designated ribbed
area, then work an increase after it. Do
this consistently over many rows, and
the area of ribbing will move across
the fabric. It is best to test first in your
swatch to decide the rate of the increase/
decrease action: doing it every right-side
row might create a too-steep angle that
would distort the garment. But every
sixth, eight, or tenth row might cause the
ribbing to move in a more graceful manner. See Sketch d.
Again, I encourage you to try the traditional ribbed patterns found in stitch
dictionaries and to try inventing your
own. Believe me, there are many ribbed
patterns yet to be designed.
DEBORAH NEWTON is the author of
the new book Finishing School (Sixth
& Spring Books, 2011) and Designing
Knitwear (Taunton, 1992), a knitters
reference.
premiere issue
|| 35
with SpinKnit!
866-949-1646
s h o p. s p i n n i n g d a i l y. co m
just
enough
knit
on
the
edge
to show a
fine detail . . .
. . . or two.
premiere issue
|| 37
fitted jacket
with cables
by Anniken Allis
THE LOOK Integral waist shaping forces
38 ||
knit.wear
shaped capelet
with braided
cables
by Erica Patberg
THE LOOK Plush braided cables sepa-
premiere issue
|| 39
reversible
scarf tank
by Sarah Wilson
THE LOOK A scarf flows into a single
shoulder strap, which grows into an
austerely simple A-line tank. Pure stockinette in the round provides a suitable
backdrop for showing off a pebbly reversible lace pattern. INSTRUCTIONS page 47
YARN Louet North America MerLin
40 ||
knit.wear
cable trimmed
jacket with hood
by Lisa Myers
THE LOOK A boxy, long-line silhouette
shows off rich kettle-dyed colors and
reversible-cable selvedges. A deep hood
grows seamlessly out of the shoulders
without an interruption to the cable
pattern. INSTRUCTIONS page 49
YARN Manos del Uruguay Rittenhouse,
distributed by Fairmount Fibers
premiere issue
|| 41
ON THE EDGE
||
Capelet
Shaped Capelet
with Braided Cables
E R I C A PA T B E R G
FINISHED SIZE 3812 (4434, 5114)"
NOTES
42 ||
knit.wear
59 full loops
half-loop
at end
picked-up
edge stitch
at beginning
k on RS; p on WS
Graft
p on RS; k on WS
6/6 LC (see Stitch Guide)
BN
sl 1 pwise wyf on WS
FN
p2tog
18x
2
2x
k1f&b
61
59
57
55
53
||
51
49
43
39
work
5 (6, 7)
times
37
35
33
2
31
29
27
25
23
21
work
once
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
work
4 (5, 6)
times
5
3
1
60 sts
premiere issue
|| 43
47
45
41
ON THE EDGE
work
once
63
44 ||
knit.wear
ON THE EDGE
||
Shaped Capelet with Braided Cables
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
q
w
e
Finishing
NOTES
Back
CO 34 (40, 44, 50, 54, 60) sts. SET-UP
ROW: (RS) Work 4 (6, 8, 9, 10, 12) sts in
12"
1.3 cm
ON THE EDGE
sleeve
5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 614)"
right
front
ANNIKEN ALLIS
4.5 cm
||
Fitted Jacket
with Cables
134"
k on RS; p on WS
Right Cable
5
premiere issue
|| 45
||
ON THE EDGE
Right Front
CO 20 (23, 25, 28, 30, 33) sts. NEXT
ROW: (RS) K3 for I-cord border, work 2
sts in Stst, pm, work Left Cable chart
over 6 sts, pm, work in Stst to end. NEXT
ROW: (WS) Work to last 3 sts, sl3 pwise
with yarn in front (wyf) for I-cord border.
Cont in patt until piece measures 1"
from CO, ending with a WS row. SHAPE
WAIST: (RS) Work to 2nd m, ssk, work to
end1 st decd. Rep Dec row every 6th
row once more18 (21, 23, 26, 28, 31)
46 ||
knit.wear
ALL SIZES:
Left Front
CO 20 (23, 25, 28, 30, 33) sts. NEXT
ROW: (RS) Work in Stst to last 11 sts, pm,
work Right Cable chart over 6 sts, pm,
work 2 sts in Stst, sl3 pwise with yarn in
back (wyb) for I-cord border. NEXT ROW:
(WS) P3 for I-cord border, work in patt
to end. Cont in patt until piece measures 1" from CO, ending with a WS row.
SHAPE WAIST: (RS) Work to 2 sts before
m, k2tog, work to end1 st decd. Rep
Dec row every 6th row once more18
(21, 23, 26, 28, 31) sts rem. Work 5 rows
even. INC ROW: (RS) Work to m, M1, slm,
work to end1st incd. Rep Inc row
Sleeves
CO 24 (25, 26, 29, 29, 30) sts. Work 8 (6,
6, 6, 4, 4) rows in Stst, ending with a WS
row. INC ROW: (RS) K1, M1, knit to last st,
M1, k12 sts incd. Rep Inc row every 8
(6, 6, 6, 4, 4)th row 3 (4, 5, 5, 7, 8) more
times32 (35, 38, 41, 45, 48) sts. Work
even until piece measures 1314 (1312,
1334, 1314, 1312, 1312)" from CO, ending with a WS row. SHAPE CAP: BO 2 (2,
Finishing
SA R A H W ILSON
end.
tapestry needle.
GAUGE 18 sts and 26 rnds = 4" in Stst.
incd.
knit to end.
ROW 2: Sl2 with yarn in front (wyf), purl
to end.
1612"
42 cm
body
9 cm
Tank
312"
ROW 7: Knit.
STITCH GUIDE
premiere issue
|| 47
||
k on RS; p on WS
Lace
98
p on RS; k on WS
96
94
yo
92
90
88
86
ssk on RS
84
p2tog on RS; k2tog on WS
82
80
ssk on WS
78
76
p3tog on WS
74
72
sl 1, k2tog, psso on RS
ON THE EDGE
||
70
68
p3tog on RS
66
sl 1, k2tog, psso on WS
64
62
no stitch
60
58
56
54
52
50
48
46
44
42
40
38
36
34
st incd.
32
30
28
26
24
22
20
18
p1f&b1 st incd.
16
14
incd.
12
ROW 7: Knit.
10
8
48 ||
knit.wear
6
4
1 (WS)
incd.
ROWS 4 AND 6: Sl2 wyf, purl to last st,
p1f&b1 st incd.
Rep Rows 16 eight more times74 sts.
NEXT ROW: (RS) Using the cable method
(see Glossary), CO 7 sts, knit to end81
sts.
SIZE 40" ONLY:
ROW 1: (RS) K1f&b, knit to last 2 sts, M1L,
incd.
Finishing
With RS facing, beg beside 2 sts on
holder, pick up (but do not knit) 90
(100, 118, 130, 142, 160) sts along edge
of neckline and around back, ending
at slst edging of neck. At other end of
needle and with RS facing, transfer 2 sts
on holder to needle and join yarn. Using
the cable method, CO 1 st. I-CORD BO:
*K2, ssk, sl3 sts from right needle to left
needle; rep from * around3 sts rem.
K3tog1st rem. Fasten off last st. Weave
in ends. Block to measurements.
LISA MYERS
FINISHED SIZE 3512 (3934, 43, 4814,
Cable Trimmed
Jacket with Hood
premiere issue
|| 49
ALL SIZES:
||
ON THE EDGE
p1f&b1 st incd.
Right Front
CO 58 (62, 66, 72, 76, 82) sts. NEXT
ROW: (WS) Purl to last 12 sts, work set-
Back
CO 72 (82, 90, 100, 108, 118) sts. Beg
with a WS row, work in Stst until piece
measures 2012" from CO, ending with
a WS row. SHAPE ARMHOLES: BO 4 (5,
5, 5, 5, 6) sts at beg of next 2rows64
(72, 80, 90, 98, 106) sts rem. Dec 1 st
each edge every RS row 5 (6, 9, 6, 8, 9)
times, then every 4th row 0 (0, 0, 4, 4,
4) times54 (60, 62, 70, 74, 80) sts rem.
Work even until armholes measure 7
(712, 8, 8, 812, 812)", ending with a WS
row. SHAPE SHOULDERS: BO 4 (6, 6, 6,
6, 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then 5 (5,
5, 6, 7, 7) sts at beg of foll 4 rows26
(28, 30, 34, 34, 36) sts rem. Place sts on
a holder.
back &
right front
2012"
52 cm
knit.wear
17
sleeve
k on RS; p on WS
p on RS; k on WS
6/6 k1, p1 cable (see Stitch Guide)
6/6 p1, k1 cable (see Stitch Guide)
Right Front
Left Front
13
13
11
11
1
set-up
1
set-up
12 sts
50 ||
43 cm
Left Front
CO 58 (62, 66, 72, 76, 82) sts. NEXT
ROW: (WS) Work set-up row of Left Front
chart over 12 sts, purl to end. NEXT ROW:
(RS) Work in Stst to last 12 sts, work Row
1 of chart to end. NOTE: Set-up row of
chart is only worked once. Rep Rows
114 for patt. Cont in patt as established
until piece measures 2012" from CO,
ending with a WS row. SHAPE ARMHOLE:
(RS) BO 4 (5, 5, 5, 5, 6) sts, work to
STITCH GUIDE
1"
2.5 cm
ON THE EDGE
||
12 sts
Finishing
Block pieces to measurements. Sew
shoulder seams. HOOD: Return 35 (35,
36, 39, 39, 41) held sts for each front
and 26 (28, 30, 34, 34, 36) held back sts
to needle and rejoin yarn to right front
edge with RS facing96 (98, 102, 112,
112, 118) sts total. NEXT ROW: (RS) Work
Save $5.00!
when you place any
order of $10.00 or more
by November 15, 2011.
Use promo code KW11A.
Visit www.patternworks.com/
landing/yarntestdrive.aspx,
or call 1-800-438-5464 to order today.
& crocheter!
premiere issue
|| 51
||
Sleeves
ON THE EDGE
technique lab
GRaFtiNG
a
top loop
by JONI CONIGLIO
bottom loop
c
4 top loops
1
+ 3 + bottom loops
Grafting
laid out flat
Top-to-top
Grafting
on needles
Top-to-bottom
Top-to-top
BN
BN
FN
FN
knit.wear
FN
FN
Direction
of knitting
52 ||
Top-to-top
Top-to-bottom
BN
BN
The Structure
of Knitted Fabric
During the knitting process, new
loops of yarn are drawn through existing
loops a.
Because of the serpentine structure
of knitted stitches, there are actually two
rows of loops on every knitted row, one
running along the top of the row (the
loops that sit on the needle), and another
running along the bottom of the row
(the loops formed by the running threads
between stitches)b.
Each new row of loops is drawn
through the top loops of the previous row.
In illustration c, one row in the center
has been highlighted. If you follow the
path the yarn takes through the loops
above and below it, beginning at the righthand side, you can see that the yarn passes
through the first half of the top loop of
the stitch in the row below, then through
the second half of a bottom loop in the
row above, through the first half of the
next bottom loop to the left, then finally
through the same top loop in the row
below as before. This sequence of four
passes is repeated for every stitch. Well
come back to these four steps later when
we talk about top-to-bottom grafting.
When you graft you use a tapestry
needle and a strand of yarn to follow the
same path that one row takes through the
loops above and below it, while simultaneously joining the row of loops below
the grafted row (the live loops on the
front needle) to the row of loops above it
(the live loops on the back needle).
BN graft
FN graft
loop on Front
Needle (FN)
K Knitwise
P Purlwise
loop on Back
Needle (BN)
Direction
of knitting
Knitting Direction
When you graft the toes of socks, you
are joining the first half of the round to
the second half of the same round, which
means that you are joining the tops of
stitches on the front needle to the tops
of stitches on the back needle. This type
of grafting is called top-to-top grafting
(see opposite). The same type of grafting
can be used for shoulder seams, where
the last row of the front is grafted to the
last row of the back. The other type of
grafting is called top-to-bottom grafting: When you graft live stitches to a
provisional cast-on, you are joining the
h
Top-to-bottom
BN
grafted
row
BN
FN
FN
BN
FN
BN
P
FN
1 loop
on FN
1 loop
on BN
loop on BN
premiere issue
|| 53
technique lab
Knitwise + Purlwise
These terms dont actually have anything to do with grafting. They refer
instead to the type of stitch that results when you are knitting (or purling),
using knitting needles. It might be more accurate to say instead, insert
the tapestry needle into the loop on the needle as if you were going to
knit (or purl) a stitch with a knitting needle, but that would make grafting
instructions, which tend to get very wordy anyway, even longer. Some
people dont like the use of these terms when it comes to grafting, but I
think that anything that makes it possible to describe the grafting process as succinctly as possible is a good thing, and I dont mind them. So,
when the instructions tell you to insert the tapestry needle into a loop
knitwise, it means from front to back, and purlwise means to insert the
tapestry needle into a loop from back to front. As the stitches face you
as they sit on the needle, the right side of the work will be facing you on
the front needle and the wrong side of the work will be facing you on
the back needle. Thus, on the front needle, knitwise means from right
side to wrong side, and purlwise means from wrong side to right side.
On the back needle, knitwise means from wrong side to right side, and
purlwise means from right side to wrong side.
knit.wear
Dealing with
Half Loops
Finding the half loop
at the end where the cast-on
tail is located can be somewhat
tricky. I use two different methods for putting this half loop on
the needle, depending on the
selvedge stitches of the pattern
Im grafting. See pages 42 and
64 for photos and illustrations).
Top-to-Bottom Grafting
In top-to-bottom grafting, the structure of the knitted fabric is followed more
closely than in top-to-top grafting (no
upside down and backward grafting!).
In fact, the grafted row will look exactly
like the highlighted row in illustration c
from our discussion of knitting structure.
When the loops are placed on the front
and back needles, they need to be set up
in the same way as the loops above and
below the highlighted row in the illustration, with a half loop at each end of the
back needle stitches j.
The grafting yarn will follow the
same path as the highlighted row in
illustration c through loops above and
below, with four passes for each stitch:
through the first half of the top loop of
BN
grafted
row
BN
FN
BN
FN
FN
Top-to-top (k1,p1rib)
BN
BN
FN
grafted
row
FN
BN
P
FN
Grafting in Pattern
As we saw, in top-to-top grafting, one
of the pieces being joined (the piece on the
back needle) is upside down in relation to
the other piece (on the front needle).
Illustration l shows what happens
when k1, p1 rib is grafted top-to-top.
To graft a purl stitch, the yarn passes
knitwise/purlwise through a stitch (the
opposite of a knit stitchs pattern). In the
charts, purl stitch grafts are shaded to
differentiate them from knit stitches. The
stitches on the front needle begin with
a knit stitch and end with a purl stitch,
while the stitches on the back needle begin
with a purl stitch and end with a knit
stitch. The stitches on the back needle are
oriented upside down in relation to the
stitches on the front needle and shift a half
stitch to the left, producing a noticeable
jog in the pattern across the graftedrow.
Even the smallest change to the stitch
pattern will increase the complexity of
the grafted row. The four-step repeat of
traditional Kitchener stitch has become
an eight-step repeat.
In comparison, top-to-bottom grafting
in pattern is relatively simple m. All thats
really necessary to graft any pattern is to
know how to do four things:
1: Graft a knit stitch on the front needle:
Purlwise, knitwise through the same
stitch.
Top-to-bottom (k1,p1rib)
BN
grafted row
FN
BN
FN
premiere issue
|| 55
First WS row on BN
BN
FN
Last RS
row on FN
BN
FN
BN
FN
Last RS
row on FN
11 Rib
First WS row on BN
P
K
BN
FN
Grafted Row
Grafted Row
First WS row on BN
Seed Stitch
K
P
Grafted Row
First WS row on BN
technique lab
Last RS
row on FN
Last RS
row on FN
Zigzag Pattern
First WS row on BN
K
BN
FN
Grafted Row
Last RS row on FN
BN
BN
FN
56 ||
knit.wear
A single loop on
the Front Needle (FN)
BN
FN
A grafted knit
stitch on the FN
A grafted knit
stitch on the BN
A grafted purl
stitch on the FN
A grafted purl
stitch on the BN
the
elements
of knitting
premiere issue
|| 57
58 ||
basket yoke
pullover
by Wendy Bernard
THE LOOK A plush basketweave
premiere issue
|| 59
slipped-stitch
mini dress
by Hana Jason
THE LOOK Spiraling slipped stitches radiate out from the neck of a
minimalistic mini dress. Shaping
hidden between slipped-stitch
columns creates a gentle A-line
silhouette without interrupting the pattern. A chunky wool
roving showcases lofty texture.
INSTRUCTIONS page 66 YARN
Tahki Yarns Montana
60 ||
knit.wear
premiere issue
|| 61
62 ||
knit.wear
mistake
stitch
mbius
by Daniel Yuhas
THE LOOK A chunky gauge shows
premiere issue
|| 63
Graft
K
||
STITCH GUIDE
Finishing
Mistake Stitch
Mbius
DA N I E L Y U H A S
Scarf
(42)" circumference.
YARN Blue Moon Fiber Arts Icelan-
circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
hook; tapestry needle; two colors removable markers (m); spare cir needle.
GAUGE 13 sts and 16 rows = 4" in mistake rib patt, slightly stretched.
NOTES
64 ||
knit.wear
||
Mistake Stitch Mbius
|| 65
premiere issue
Dress
YOKE: CO 60 (75) sts. Place marker (pm)
and join in the rnd. SET-UP RND: *K1, p3
||
Slipped-Stitch
Mini Dress
H A NA JA SON
FINISHED SIZE 36 (44)" bust circum-
ALL SIZES:
Graft 4-st patt rep 6 (8) times, foll grafting chart (r shows 1 rep completed;
t shows 2 reps; and y shows last rep
worked). Graft rem 6 sts u. Photo 17
shows completed scarf. Weave in ends.
66 ||
knit.wear
around165 sts.
Rep Rnds 13.
2134 (2714)"
55 (69) cm
734 (9)"
19.5 (23) cm
1214 (1514)"
31 (38.5) cm
36 (44)"
20"
91.5 (112) cm
51 cm
dress
W E N DY BE R NA R D
44 (52)"
112 (132) cm
until piece measures 20" from underarm, or desired length, ending with
Rnd 3. BO all sts in patt.
Finishing
on larger needles.
NOTES
premiere issue
|| 67
||
||
Body
5 cm
SLEEVES
SWEATER
COLLAR: With smaller cir needle, CO
68 ||
knit.wear
Finishing
Weave in ends. Block lightly.
Wendy Bernard is the author of
Custom Knits, Custom Knits 2, and
Knitting From The Top Down. She
blogs at www.knitandtonic.net.
blueskyalpacas.com
in a
!"##$%&
TM
knitdenise.com
s
888-831-8042
434-823-8234
A p rs Ves t |
TE CH NO | 1 97 0 fam e