KOREA Magazine (SEPTEMBER 2011 VOL. 7 NO. 10)

People & Culture
OCTOber 2011
ElEmEnts of Han stylE
CELEBRATING THE ANCIENT TRIPITAKA KOREANA
HAEINSA
HEAD TO BUSANS FILM FESTIVAL
CINEMATIC COAST
ISSN: 2005-2162
DISCOVERING KOREAS CULTURE

www.korea.net
Contents
october 2011 VOL.7 NO.10
02
cover story
Discover the six elements of Korean culture.
12
pen & brush
Woodcut artist Lee Chul-soo celebrates life.
16
people
Ambassador Kathleen Stephens bids farewell.
18
great korean
Heo Jun left his legacy in the Donguibogam.
20
seoul
Get a taste of the city in Noryangjin fish market.
22
travel
Celebrate the Tripitaka Koreana at Haeinsa.
26
festival
The Busan International Film Festival kicks off.
02
publisher Seo Kang-soo, Korean Culture and Information Service editing HEM KOREA Co., Ltd e-mail webmaster@korea.net printing Samsung Moonhwa Printing Co. All right reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without permission from KOrea and the Korean Culture and Information Service. The articles published in KOrea do not necessarily represent the views of the publisher. The publisher is not liable for errors or omissions. If you want to receive a free copy of KOrea or wish to cancel a subscription, please e-mail us. A downloadable PDF file of KOrea, and a map and glossary with common Korean words appearing in our text are available by clicking on the thumbnail of KOrea on the homepage of www.korea.net. 11-1110073-000016-06
27
flavor
Try some handmade kalguksu noodles.
28
entertainment
Expats are making their way in entertainment.
30
sports
Revisiting the IAAF World Championships.
36
special issue
UNWTO General Assembly meets in Gyeongju.
22
38
summit diplomacy
President Lee Myung-bak heads to Central Asia.
42
global korea
Koreas PKO forces are lending a helping hand.
46
my korea
Uncovering the culture of monetary gift giving.
30
cover story
The BeauTy of han
Korean traditional culture is gaining the spotlight on the international stage. From fashion to ecofriendly art, the six elements of Korean style hanbok (dress), Hanji (mulberry paper), hanok (house), hansik (cuisine), Hangeul (Korean alphabet) and hanguk eumak (music) are influencing minds around the world. by Lee Sun-min
At first glance, the dresses gracing the runway appear to be simple, beautiful sleeveless apparel. But upon closer inspection, the fine waistband is raised to just beneath the bust, a voluminous skirt bursts with form and a graceful bow left dangling. The color of each look is radiant, but maintain gentle elegance and a partiality to subtle earth tones. This is Venezuelan designer Carolina Herreras Spring 2011 collection, which appeared at the New York Fashion Week last year. Herrera, known for her elegant style and classic tastes, incorporated elements of hanbok, or Korean traditional dress, into her collection. Blending influences from both mens and womens traditional clothing including gat, the traditional woven hats typically worn by males the collection combines the cuts and details of Korea with the feminine playfulness of 18th century botanical plates. Each look flows seamlessly, combining two disparate cultures into a unified garment. Despite the ease with which Herrera combines Western and Eastern elements in her clothing, she discovered hanok only recently. A Korean seamstress in her Manhattan atelier showed her family wedding photographs featuring the foreign dress. The hats and costumes and details were just so fantastic, I asked to see more. They bought me books, and then I spent several days visiting the Korea museum in New York. I was captivated, Herrera told the Telegraph, referring to a hanbok museum founded by Korean designer Lee Young-hee. Others in the fashion and design industry have been keen on learning more about hanbok as well. Global jewelry company Swarovski commissioned 22 world-renowned designers including the likes of Armani, Givenchy and Lanvin to create Swarovski crystal-studded
dresses in collaboration with six Korean designers. The dresses, which were auctioned off to support a charity, were beautiful hanbok that incorporated the sparkling jewels. The cooperation [between Swarovski and Korean designers] is designed to position the worlds finest crystal elements within the hanbok and illustrate how Korean tradition can be harmoniously melded with modernity to suit the demands of todays market, Swarovski said in a statement. Behind the trend of hanbok spreading in the global fashion scene, there are numerous Korean designers who have been striving to introduce traditional garments to broader audiences. Lee Young-hee and Park Sul-nyeo are the most well-known of these designers.
Lee was a forerunner in cultivating the elegant and sophisticated image of hanbok, as she held the first hanbok fashion show in the White House in Washington, DC, in 1983. Afterwards, she was invited to present her hanbok collections at numerous international events, finally making her debut at the prestigious Prt--porter Paris in 1993. The following year, Lee opened up a hanbok store in the French capital. Lees hanbok is a modern twist on the original, simplified yet still faithful to the curves and design. She places emphasis on color, and each of her hanbok is hand-dyed from natural materials, sticking to the Korean tradition. She continues to showcase her work in a multitude of venues, holding fashion shows throughout Korea and even
Carolina Herrera (above); Kim Nam-heon (opposite right second from top); Korea Tourism Organization
Dresses from Carolina herreras spring 2011 collection at new york fashion Week (opposite). musicians play the gayageum, Korean traditional zither-like string instrument (above).
founding the Lee Young Hee Museum of Korean Culture in New York. With Lee as a pioneer, other designers have further expanded the hanbok market with their own unique looks. Park was one of the most daring, never hesitating to switch out classicism for something more young and fun. Moving away from Lees example, she created multicolored collages on her garments. Last year, the designer made news with her latest project: an underwater fashion show, with each of the submerged models wearing full hanbok outfits. Instead of learning to grace
the catwalk, models practiced posing underwater, turning gently to let light flow through the sash of the skirt and allow the dress to move with the water. Park specifically designed her clothes to look beautiful even when soaked through. International media, including the Huffington Post and fashion magazine Nylon displayed videos and photos of the fashion show. Most recently, Park invited K-pop stars to model in one of her fashion shows, using their celebrity status to help increase awareness and promote Koreas traditional dress. The event, held in August at the Grand Hyatt Seoul, saw groups such as Kara appear on the runway in unique garments. One of the major themes was saekdong, or multicolor strips used on the sleeves of jeogori, or bolero-style jacket of hanbok, which gave an energetic pop of color fit for the popular girl group. Not only designers, but also the general public has been showing a rising interest in hanbok. Some brides have been opting to wear hanbok at their wedding receptions, instead of the usual Western-style evening gowns. Hanbok seems to be a proper choice of dress for a wedding, since I actually dont get to wear such a full skirt in everyday life, says Jackie Zo, who wore a hanbok at her wedding reception in May. And the elegant image of hanbok fell right in place for the occasion. Korean traditional cultural elements can be broken down into six categories: hanbok, Hanji (paper), hanok (house), Hangeul (Korean alphabet), hansik (cuisine) and hanguk eumak (music). Each of the categories, which includes the word han (or Korea), was designated the Han Style in 2006 by former culture minister Kim Myung-gon. Im not promoting the six categories of Han Style solely
6 elements of han style

hanboK A womans hanbok (traditional dress) consists of a wrap-around skirt called chima and a bolero-style jacket called jeogori. The bow that ties the jacket shut is called goreum. For men, hanbok typically consists of three pieces: baji (pants), an inner jeogori jacket and an outer jacket called magoja. hansiK A typical meal in Korea consists of rice, a multitude of side dishes of seasoned vegetables, a soup or stew, and meat or fish. There are several distinct categories of cuisine, from temple food (which is local, vegetarian food without pungently aromatic elements such as onions, garlic or leeks) to royal cuisine (characterized by its attention to detail and seasonal menu). hangeul The Korean alphabet was created in 1443, and consists of 24 consonants and vowels. At the time, it was in vogue for most elites and scholars to write in Chinese characters. Developed by King Sejong the Great to overcome the class divide, the alphabet enabled even the most common of people to read and write in their native tongue. hanoK Traditional architecture in Korea typically feature ondol, or floor heating, and environmental elements most hanok were made of soil, wood and rock. The style and shape of a hanok differ according to region. hanguK eumaK The genres of traditional music, also called gugak, range from the guttural vocals of pansori to the strong beats of sanjo percussion music. Court music, farmers music and shamanistic music are some of the varieties of traditional music. Gugak is now seeing a revival through fusion genres, which are often upbeat and catchy. hanji Made from the natural fibers of a mulberry tree native to Korea, Hanji paper is a soft and durable material that can be shaped into all manner of items and crafts.
04 | korea | october 2011
www.korea.net | 05
from left to right: expats participate in a gimjang, kimchi-making event; a calligrapher writes in Hangeul (the Korean alphabet); a view of the inside of a hanok (house); fusion gugak (Korean music) group yeoul performs a piece; Designer han song created pants made of Hanji (paper) fabric.
Korea Tourism Organization (far left, left); Kim Nam-heon (center); Universal Music Korea (second from right); Han Song TROA (far right)
because theyre our own, Kim said in an interview in 2007. They are as outstanding as any other culture, but have been underestimated and kept behind the scenes, since many people have been emulating Western culture. At the time, Hallyu (the Korean wave), had just reached Japan and other Asian countries, and Korean films and dramas were starting to gain recognition outside of their homeland. Seeing an opportunity to promote Korean culture, Kim began advertising the connections between Hallyu and Han Style. Hallyu cannot just stand alone by itself. For Hallyu to stand firm, it is necessary to have a strong fundamental support base, so it can be bolstered along with other cultural elements, Kim said. While in office, the culture minister held various events that would introduce all six facets of the Han Style campaign in one setting. Foreign ambassadors, diplomats and media were invited to partake in a night of Korean culture, from viewing a hanbok fashion show to a tasting of hansik, learning a bit of Hangeul, appreciating hanok models and Hanji craft all while hanguk eumak (better known as gugak) resonated throughout the venue. Since its inception, Han Style has continued to progress globally. Hansik
began appearing in food trucks popular in Los Angeles, made it to New York restaurants and, in its latest development, has now secured broadcasting time on national television in the US. American public broadcaster PBS has been airing a program on Korean cuisine since July, titled Kimchi Chronicles. The program is hosted by Michelin three-star chef JeanGeorges Vongerichten and his Koreanborn actress and model wife Marja Vongerichten. Kimchi Chronicles introduces viewers to regional Korean dishes, as well as the area the food originates from. The couple then takes the cuisine back to their home, and demonstrate how hansik can be duplicated in any kitchen. A variety of well-known dishes such as bulgogi (marinated beef) and bibimbap (mixed rice with vegetables) have been introduced, and rare delights will be explored later in the season. Korean food, often known for its
lack of specific recipes, is now being introduced online with standardized cooking instructions. The Korean Food Foundation, sponsored by the Ministry of Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, provides exact recipes and even how-tos on table setting with a variety of side dishes on www.hansik. org. Other resources provide recipes and restaurant ratings, such as the Korea Tourism Organization-run website www.koreataste.org. If intrigued by Korean culture, one might naturally become familiar with the Korean language. As it is a phonetic language and relatively easy to learn, Korea has shared its alphabet with a small tribe in Indonesia, where it has become the tribes official writing system. The native language used by the Cia-Cia, which has a population of just 60,000, was endangered as the tribe didnt have a systemized writing method. The decision for a foreign country to adopt Hangeul is an unprecedented act. It will be a meaningful case in history if the Indonesian tribe manages to keep its aboriginal language with the help of Hangeul, said Kim Ju-won,
Seoul National University professor and member of the Hunminjeongeum Research Institute, to Yonhap News Agency. In the long run, the spread of Hangeul will also help enhance Koreas economy as it will activate exchanges with societies that use the language. As Hangeul paves its way into peoples lives, the hanok has also become more approachable. Many hanok-structured guesthouses and hotels are being built across the country, allowing both natives and tourists to experience a night in a traditional setting. Ragung, meaning Silla Palace, a hotel in Shilla Millennium Park in Gyeongju, is a high-end hanok that combines modern luxuries with traditional aesthetics. In Seoul, a variety of hanok guesthouses can be reserved for a night in old Korea, while troves of hidden hanok houses can still be seen in neighborhoods such as Bukchon and Seochon. Perhaps one of the most accessible cultural elements is Korean music, which is seeing a resurgence in modern renditions. The National Theater of Korea hosted the first annual Yeourak Festival last year, which featured fusion gugak groups. The instruments used in the performances were all from the Korean tradition, but participants were not afraid of mixing in Western rhythms
or styles. Fusion gugak typically applies fast-paced rhythms to traditional sounds, so that even the gugak novice can become familiar with the music quickly. In September, Korean musician Kim Young-il received a Grammy Award nomination for his album Gagok, Pungnyu III, Jeong Ga Ak Hoe the first time a Korean album has received such a distinction. Lastly, Hanji proves to be one of the most diverse elements of Korean tradition. Directly translated, Hanji is a type of mulberry paper, but the actual use of Hanji does not stay within the category of materials that are written upon. While most often used to create crafts or artwork, more and more people are stepping up to the plate to find new uses for the material. Han Song, a designer who focuses on developing eco-friendly fabrics, showed a collection for his brand TROA. The pieces blend Hanji yarn and more common fabrics like Lycra to create modern, sustainable clothing. He was even able to produce one of his signature sleeveless jackets out of pure Hanji fabric. [The material is] closer to cotton than silk, but still different from cotton. Its slightly rougher but very comfortable. It is also noted for its cooling qualities, Han said, explaining why Hanji was
his choice of fabric. He also said that his overall collection for the season, which was introduced in May, is a very, very Korean collection without being obvious. This is not an ethnic collection, but the root of it is Korean tradition. Hanji is now expanding its market to global customers. The Cemal Reit Rey Concert Hall in Istanbul hosted a festival dedicated to Hanji from Sept 13 to 15, introducing Korean handcrafts to local residents. From its use in calligraphy to crafting ornate works, Turkish festivalgoers were enthralled with Hanji. The festival was a branch of the popular Jeonju Hanji Festival, which has previously traveled to Shanghai, Berlin, Prague, Vancouver and St Petersburg. In the front line to promote Hanji, UNs Secretary-General Ban Kimoon decorated his official New York residence and guesthouse with Hanji. Legendary Korean director Im Kwontaek even created a work based on the cultural element, his 100th film that was released in Korea this March. As Han Style reaches further into the global community, it becomes easier to see that appreciating local tradition is perhaps better than imitating what is already known and popular in the international community. The beauty of Han Style is in Korea.
www.korea.net | 07
cover story
starting point for beginner craftsmen, as it is easy, affordable and practical, yet still contains all the charms of art, tradition and skill. Heejai Hanji has already helped more than 100 students master the craft. Hur exhibits her work at art galleries in Seoul and overseas, such as in Italy, France, China and Indonesia. Though her next step is to exhibit in Japan, a surge in work has kept her from beginning preparations. There is a continuous string of orders for Hanji crafts here, including furniture and DIY Hanji craft packages, which are sent to art classes in schools across the country. Materials and complete products ready for delivery are piled neatly in a corner next to her studio; hundreds of DIY kits are sent out weekly to aspiring craftsmen, young and old. I gain motivation from cloth samples, ancient crafts and exhibition works. They are all good references for exploring colors and patterns. We create our own styles from what we see and feel in the world around us, Hur says. Her own personality peeks out throughout the room, depicting her many interests: Chinese letters, grapevines, butterflies, lemons and marigolds. Hur says there is nothing she cant
a collection of Hanji (traditional mulberry paper) crafts are on display at heejai hanji, south of seoul (opposite). owner hur hee-jai has spent 30 years creating the traditional crafts and teaching others (above). boxes and drawers can be made with hanji (left).
express through Hanji. She hopes to show the traditional crafts potential to as many people as possible, using her own life as her canvas. She reveals she even has about 30 pieces of Hanji furniture decorating her home. She hopes to one day build an entire house with Hanji, from its wallpaper to the smallest decorative vase. As she speaks, her hands rhythmically gesture to depict the magnificent shapes of the traditional mulberry paper.
learn more about hanji Cho soo-jung hanji art gallery

Daechi-dong, Seoul
a Cove of CrafTs
Hur Hee-jai says there is only one pure joy in her life: Hanji crafts. The artisan has devoted 30 years to the traditional paper craftwork, and the art form continues to entice her today. by Lim Ji-young | photographs by Kim Hong-jin
Heejai Hanji is nestled in the middle of a shopping district in Sanbon, south of Seoul, and serves as a cozy home for Hanji (Korean traditional paper) crafts. Visitors immediately notice the wall to wall displays of colorful, countless Hanji. The next room over is owner Hur Heejais studio, which also serves as a gallery and storage space. The entire interior of the building overflows with the dynamic works Hur and her students have created over the past three decades. Though the studio offers plenty of items to purchase and covet, Hur centralizes her work and business on strong principles. She believes traditional crafts should not only contain beauty, but have a practical function. This philosophy has helped the artist expand her horizons, making everything from delicate paper lanterns to sturdy cabinets stocked with pullout drawers. So what made her fall in love with Hanji? It is said that Hanji lasts a thousand years. The paper, which may look thin and fragile, is actually very strong and long lasting. The original color and patterns of Hanji craftworks are made from tender, yet strong, Hanji paper the materials do not fade, but gain a time-worn elegance as they age. Thats the true charm of Hanji, Hur says. The creation process begins with a simple framework for an object the designer wishes to make. A layer of glue is then applied to the matte frame, before a layer of the delicate, handmade Hanji is placed on top. It is up to each artist to get just the right balance between the color of the paper and the shape of the object. The process of gluing and layering is then repeated, resulting in an
ever-more sturdy craft. To excel in the craft, patience is key, as each step takes time to dry, settle and finish. The beauty of Hanji is that there is nothing it cannot be shaped into, whether it is a chest of drawers, a tea table, stationery box, business card case or a napkin holder. Its also an excellent
Renowned Hanji craftsman Cho Soo-jungs Hanji Art Gallery displays a variety of graceful works. Characterized by a tenacious use of naturally-dyed papers, Chos workmanship incorporates elements of Western aestheticism, transforming the traditional works into modern art. Porcelain, tea sets and dishes made of Hanji can be purchased. A tea room provides visitors with a place to relax, and offers traditional cookies and rice cakes. Admission is free. For more information, visit www.soojunghanji.co.kr. hanji story
Insa-dong, Seoul
Hanji Story is where you can buy everything you need for Hanji crafts, from various papers to small decorative ornaments. Once inside, itll be hard to leave the shop. Lessons in Hanji crafts are held regularly. A monthlong beginners course is 150,000 won (US$130, materials included), and participants will learn to create tea trays, tissue cases, business card cases and mini jewelry boxes. Visit www.hanjistory.com. bukchon hanji Craft
Bukchon Hanok Village, Seoul
Hanji crafts lovers gather here to share their trade secrets. As Bukchon Hanji Craft is located in the heart of a hanok village, a truly authentic experience can be had within a traditional atmosphere. Sign up for lessons and tips, and you can learn how to make Hanji dolls. Visit http:// cafe.naver.com/wooridoll.
www.korea.net | 09
cover story
Clothing, like most facets of culture, evolves. Its no different from what took place with Western clothing todays clothing, for the most part, is a continuation of a fashion tradition that goes back centuries, Koehler says. That tradition, in particular, seems to be surviving more in the countryside. For Bin Do-rim, birth name Dirk Fuendling, its more fitting to wear a hanbok when going out in the small city of Damyang. Bin is a former interpreter for the German Embassy and former professor of Catholic University of Daegu. He first came to study at Seoul National University in 1974, after his curiosity about the little-known Asian country grew. The East Asian studies major returned a decade later, and he hasnt left since. After a while, city life began to wear on him, and Bin decided to move to the country house hed been building during his 10 years at the Seoul-based embassy. Though his previous work as an official kept him in black suits, his new work as a translator and beeswax candle maker afforded him a new liberty. I didnt wear hanbok a lot while in Seoul, but since moving down to the countryside I started wearing it a lot more. Now its the opposite from before: theres no real need for me to ever wear a suit and I havent worn a tie in about 10 years, Bin laughs. He also wears the modernized gaeryang hanbok, for its comfort and convenience. It looks good and, especially now that Im a little older and my beer belly has come out, its very comfortable, he jokes. Bin still keeps around a range of hanbok, however, from the traditional outfit he received as a gift when he was naturalized as a Korean citizen, to a lighter summer version made of mosi, or ramie. As many residents in Damyang are also accustomed to wearing hanbok, Bin is able to fit right into the local scene, and has even received the occasional compliment of, Very stylish! Perhaps this attitude is filtering its way through the local population, as both Koehler and Bin have seen a small, but visible, increase in hanbok wearers. You see more people wearing the hanbok than before, although as you know, its still a rarity, Koehler says. When I first came to Korea in the 1970s and 80s, people
from opposite, clockwise: Korean citizen bin Do-rim stands before his hanok house in Damyang; a traditional mens hanbok (traditional dress); bin holds one of his handmade candles; bin and his wife in their home.
a CosTume of CulTure
While some Koreans are slowly distancing themselves from ancient traditions, others are learning to take in as much as possible, reviving the best of Koreas hanbok. Will others soon follow in their wake? by Ines Min | photographs by Park Jeong-roh
More and more expats are showing locals how its done. While young Koreans are eager to try out the latest trends in fashion, a small community of people are steadfast in their dedication to one of Koreas most visible traditions: the hanbok. Korean traditional dress is making a comeback from the corners of Korea, and expats are some of hanboks greatest proponents. Robert Koehler, the editor of Seoul magazine and writer of the popular
Marmots Hole blog (www.rjkoehler. com), is one of the most prominent hanbok supporters in Seoul. Koehler is known to wear a gaeryang hanbok, or a modernized version, on a daily basis. Theyre comfortable, easy to maintain and look nice. Im also naturally partial to traditional culture I started wearing the hanbok around 1998, when modernized hanbok were first coming into fashion, explains the 14-year resident of Korea.
Koehler first came here to teach English in Gyeongsangbuk-do Province. Though he arrived in Korea without much foreknowledge of what would await him, the American expat soon fell in love with the culture. We think of traditional as something stuck in the past, and by doing so, we sometimes keep it there, unfortunately. I think the modernized hanbok is an attempt to overcome this by reestablishing some historical continuity to the clothing.
would only wear hanbok on chuseok (the harvest holiday) or seollal (the Lunar New Year) to perform a bow to their elders. Outside of that, men would always wear black suits. Black or brown, one of the two, it was always fixed. But lately, in the countryside especially, people are wearing hanbok a little more, Bin explains about the change. If you look at it in one way, Korean people have become more confident. Back in the 70s, Koreans didnt have enough confidence, and there were a lot of complaints about the country and how this didnt go right and such, and everyone was always looking to the US. But now, its not like that confidence has really grown and Koreans now view Korea as successful. I think that one expression of that change is a return to pride in tradition.
Topic Images (top right)
www.korea.net | 11
pen & brush
Poetry and Philosophy in Wood

Kim Su-yeong, one of Koreas most famous poets, once wrote that a poem is neither written with just your head nor with your heart, but with your own body. Lee Chulsoo has been engraving artwork and poems for 30 years, while never once stopping his soul searching. His woodcut prints, his signature medium for the past three decades, are nothing less than a combination of everyday confessions, poetry and philosophy all of them carved straight from his being. This is the story of Lee Chul-soo, an honest woodcutter and true storyteller.
by Choi Hye-jung | photographs by Kim Nam-heon
Bird Flies with the Whole Body, a retrospective exhibit celebrating the 30th anniversary of famed woodcut artist Lee Chul-soo, opened last month at Jeonjus Gyo Dong Art Center. The 110 pieces spanning the artists 30-year career is nothing short of impressive. As locals like to say, mountains and rivers are reborn thrice over three decades, and Lee has transformed himself as an artist during that same period: from an activist artist who stood up against an oppressive society with wild lines and strong language, to a contemporary woodcut artist who captured the essence of life with simplicity and lucid words,
and now to Koreas representative woodcut artist. A passionate creator, Lee has faced the tumultuous times of his nation head-on, with his anniversary exhibit aptly matching his life and beliefs. Just as the exhibit title implies, he thrusts his entire being into his work art is not merely an expression of his mind or technical skills. As each piece embodies the artist, the environment and all the facets of the age, Lees work allows people to view the bigger picture. Ive been an artist for 30 years now. Thirty years is the length of a generation and I thought it interesting to look back on the past three decades, not just as a person but as a society, Lee says. The past was not always easy for us as a Korean society. The country survived the Cold War and financial crises. I thought it would be meaningful to look back on the past through my work over that time and ask myself how responsible Ive been as an artist. The 110 pieces of art on display are the ones Lee believes best represent the times and are most well-known by the public. And in order to reach as wide an audience as possible, the artists showcase will travel the countryside. The opening of the 30th anniversary exhibit was simultaneously held in three venues throughout Jeonju: the Jeonju History Museum, the Jeonju Hanok Village Caf Space Spring and the Gyo Dong Art Center. After winding up on Sept 18, the show will next travel to Cheongju in November. I titled the show Bird Flies with the Whole Body not just its left or right wings because the conflict between the political left and right has been the biggest barrier dividing Korean society over the last 30 years. It has created a distortion in our lives and separated people ideologically. I want to talk about these issues that we share as a nation, Lee says. Woodcut art is an art form, but it also requires a lot of
Lee Chul-soo
The Misan Valley 2 (2011) reads: When i sat in the misan Valley with a person, it was a good place. now that the person is gone, i dont even know where it is.
physical labor, which I felt matched what Id had to say. More than anything else, I wanted to show through my prints what Kim Su-yeong says in Spit, Poetry, in that poetry is something you create using your whole body. Woodcuting is no different.
A Simple ApproAch Lees work is characterized by its
succinct lines and short aphorisms that contain profound insights into life. While his work is aesthetically pleasing at first sight, as time passes viewers will find themselves falling into the deep, philosophical implications of the phrases. Many say his work has revived the spirit of traditional ink paintings through his modern prints. Its a tradition in the East Asian art world for painting and writing to coexist in one piece of work. As Western art was introduced to Korea, a prejudice that art is all about images became rampant. I think painting is a form of language. Likewise, conversation is about gestures and facial expressions as well as words, Lee explains. If writing is added to a picture to make communication easier and to reach more people, theres no reason to turn it away. In this sense, my prints are more a revival of existing traditions than the introduction of new forms. His works, distinguished by the artists own unique carved script, delineate everything from the subtle (The birds dance) to the abstract (In those woods/Thinking, thinking). Presented on the simple cream hues of Hanji, or traditional mulberry paper, each print is an extension of Lees mindset. All I do is pull out what others already see in their lives but whose meaning they didnt realize, opening it up before them so it can be better understood. What I want to achieve through my artistic process is to share with others what I feel, and to comfort ordinary people just like myself, he says.
Lee manages to reveal these thoughts and place them in a positive light. Many are touched by his work because they feel the sincerity within them. This style, which characterizes some his best-known works, parallels the path Lee has taken in his own life. Plucking himself from hectic city life in 1987 and moving to a rural village in Chungcheongbuk-do Province, Lee came to focus not just on confrontation with authority, but on the overlooked aspects of life. It was at this point that his work began to shift from politics to more universal themes. I dont remember the exact reason I became a farmer, as it was 25 years ago, he laughs. But Id always thought I wanted to get out of the city and experience a traditional agricultural lifestyle. As Koreas traditional art is based on an agricultural way of life, I believed my life needed to be different if I wanted to explore our traditional art. Farming isnt just about producing what we eat. As I experienced the endless cycle of sowing seeds, sprouting, growing and finally coming back with more seeds, I realized something deeper about life. And I keep reflecting upon what my prints, or art in general, should do in this whole process. As he confessed in an introduction to a collection of his works over the last 30 years, Heart Engraved in Wood (Culture Books), For me life is not just about making pictures. From time to time, I farmed, met new people, and got involved in this and that. Everything that I did or took part in became a subject of interest for me, something I could learn from.
An Act of Synergy He tills soil, studies the earth, engraves
Untitled (2008) reads: the only thing that i can give you is this.
grandson once said, I felt like something was pouring into my heart when I saw your work. I really wanted to meet you, Lee says. It was a print of birds soaring through the sky, and you can almost feel the flow of wind under your arms. She felt exactly the same thing that I had in mind when I conceived of the idea for that print. Lees is a sympathy that seems to transcend race, gender and language, a concept made possible because his prints reveal the secret narrative of human existence. He tells stories about life through engraved images, and the added prose intensifies the resonance of the stories. In other words, his works make us realize that our very lives are long, long stories, art critic Yi Joo-heon once said. There is no perfect way to understand my work, Lee aptly adds to this description. If there is a proper way, it would be to listen to the stories comfortably, without pressure and without prejudice. It would be to look where the eyes lead and feel what the heart dictates. Lee wishes art could exist in closer connection with people in their everyday lives, which he endeavors to follow in his own life. This effort has helped him to constantly question the world and to redefine his values. He hasnt lost his critical way of thinking, while maintaining the spirit of the times and the necessary tension, says Lee Tae-ho, an art history professor at Myongji University. Though he is almost 60 years old, his works still contain a sincerity that speaks from a youthful soul and a deep creative well. His works, the result of a critical approach and an appreciation for humanity, are the crossroads of art and life.
the ArtiStS mAjor exhibitS 1981 Lee Chul-soo Print Exhibit, first solo exhibit, Kwanhoon Gallery (Seoul) 1989 Minjung Kunst in Korea, traveling exhibit in Germany at the invitation of the University of Hamburg (Berlin, Hamburg, Bochum, Frankfurt, Stuttgart) Minjung Kunst in Korea exhibit in Switzerland (Zurich, Basel) 1993 The Wild Cherries Have Bloomed, invitation exhibit, organized by Hakgojae Gallery (Seoul, Busan, Daegu, Gwangju, Jeonju) 1995 The Song of the Dry Grass, invitation exhibit, organized by Hakgojae Gallery (Seoul, Busan, Daegu, Gwangju, Jeonju, Cheonan, Wonju, Jeju) 2003 Visual Poetry Davidson Gallery (Seattle, US) Visual Poetry Guilford Art Gallery (North Carolina, US) 2005 Visual Poetry II Davidson Gallery (Seattle, US) Visual Poetry Original Print Gallery (Dublin, Ireland) 2009 Visual Poetry III Davidson Gallery (Seattle, US) 2011 Bird Flies with the Whole Body 30-year retrospective at Kwanhoon Gallery (Seoul) Bird Flies with the Whole Body, Jeonju History Museum, Caf Space Spring, Gyo Dong Art Center
A Working Day (2000) reads: We spent all day in the rice paddy. We feel we are getting smaller and smaller like the leeches and butterflies.
art into wooden blocks all while continuing his quest for inner peace. He often speaks about life insights, which are often unexpected and small pieces of a whole. He never judges
one insight as groundbreaking or trivial, and has learned to appreciate things for what they are. Lee likes to leave room for his audience, both physically in his work and mentally in its message. This explains why his artwork has always maintained such a simplistic style. It is up to the viewers themselves to complete the works and take his meaning as their own. A much older lady who visited my Seattle exhibit with her
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people
Some can spend years in one place and still be unable to truly call it a home. For Kathleen Stephens, the US Ambassador to Korea, three years in the country was enough for her to learn the language, dive head first into the daily lives of Koreans and adopt the nation as her own. One of the most popular US ambassadors to Korea ever, Stephens winds down her final responsibilities as her term comes to an end. The ambassador looks cheerful as she walks into the living room of her resplendent diplomatic residence in Jeong-dong, central Seoul. Not knowing her exact speaking level of Korean, I start our time by asking basic questions. Theres no need to worry, however her Korean is perfect. For Stephens, it was never just about the politics and the rigid diplomacy, as she has always had a strong bond with the country. From 1975 to 1977, she served as a Peace Corps volunteer in Chungcheongnam-do Province and was given the Korean name of Shim Eunkyung. She credits her time in the small rural town as being the place where she learned her skills as a diplomat, which later helped see her return to Korea. Since her time as ambassador, she has been appointed a goodwill ambassador for Hangeul, the Korean alphabet, and has become an honorary citizen of Jeju Island. Stephens time has been welldocumented by both the media and her own official blog (which is written in English and translated into Korean). The blog, which has been wildly popular amongst locals, was compiled into a book of memoirs last year. I thought maybe I could use the blog to reflect on my experiences here, reflect on the past and how it feels to come back and what I see in Korea, she said during a press conference for her book launching. The 295-page collection was one of her ways to express her affection toward the country and its people, and was published under her adopted Korean name. As her term as ambassador draws to a close, Stephens finds herself once again reliving all her experiences here. The questions she finds most difficult to answer in our time is not about USKorea relations, North Korea or any other politically-sensitive topic. Rather, its hardest for her to narrow down her favorite recollections and moments. So what is my favorite restaurant? Its usually the last restaurant I was in, Stephens laughs. It varies according to the season, locale and cook, so I cant say I have one favorite food. But what I like about Korea is that the local flavors have been retained, and you can still find them in small restaurants in Seoul and tiny little places all over the countryside. Other things are easier for her to answer. The ambassadors favorite hobby is biking bicycles, not motorcycles, she clarifies amusedly. I found, somewhat to my surprise, when I came back to Korea three years ago, that Korea is a great place to ride bikes, whether you ride road bikes or mountain bikes. She fell in love with local trails, not only because they were beautiful to ride on, but also because of the people who have accompanied her on her journeys. To mark the 60th anniversary of the Korean War (1950-1953) last year, Stephens went for a bike ride and found herself greeted by war veterans and elderly citizens who still had vivid memories of the war. Its immediately obvious that the ambassador is no novice when it comes to Seouls best trails, hot spots and hiking locations. First of all, the feng shui is very good. I live in Jeongdong and if you walk, you can go to Mt mountains, and in a short amount of time, is very refreshing. The ambassador is famous for not being afraid to get her feet wet, in terms of embracing everything that is cultural. From biking across the country to visiting local art exhibitions, Stephens has gained the love of the people for her sincerity. The past three years have not only been about fulfilling her duties, but also about discovering the environment around her and even reconnecting with the past. In a well-documented trip, Stephens visited the small school in Chungcheongnam-do where she had once taught English more than three decades prior. She made headlines as she posted a picture of herself reuniting with her former students on her blog.
Kathleen Stephens looks back on her life in Korea, her experiences with the food, the landscape and the people. by Han Sang-hee
Yonhap News Agency
An Ambassadors Farewell
Kathleen Stephens has served as US Ambassador for three years (opposite). Stephens promotes the inaugural import of California pomegranates in 2008 (top). The ambassador waves during a bike tour in Gangwon-do Province in August (above).
Inwangsan or Mt Bukhansan. Its also great on bike, because you can reach the Hangang River and also Mt Namsan Seoul is a busy city with a lot of people, but the fact that you can go to the
Perhaps, ultimately, it is the human connections that have made her time here so memorable. It was a great honor being the American Ambassador to Korea for three years. I was moved at how warmly the Korean people welcomed me. I may be leaving now, but Korea and the Korean people will be in my heart forever, Stephens says with a bright smile. Thank you.
www.korea.net | 17
great korean
Heo Juns Medical Text

Published in 1613, the Donguibogam is regarded as the bible of medical texts even to this day. Its academic value was recognized by UNESCO when it was included in the Memory of the World Register in 2009. Heo Jun, the books author, is still garnering attention 400 years on. by Seo Dong-chul
Donguibogam, the only medical text that is part of the Memory of the World Register, is now set to be translated into English. In celebration of the 400th anniversary of its publication, the Ministry of Health and Welfare plans to finish translation of the book by 2013. The text will then be distributed internationally, giving people in other countries the chance to see the brilliance
of Korean traditional medicine. Donguibogam is a medical encyclopedia compiled by Heo Jun, a royal physician, during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). When published in 1613, it gained the attention of medical scientists in China and Japan. In fact, it was so highly valued that the preface to the Chinese version describes it as a priceless treasure, while the
Japanese preface to the book called it the secret of medical practitioners. Heo Jun penned Donguibogam because the times demanded it. In the late 16th century, Korea was suffering from rampant epidemics across the country in the wake of Japans Imjin War (1592-1598). In addition, as Chinese medicine was increasingly introduced and integrated with existing Korean methods, there was a need to provide practitioners with a reliable guide to treatments. The responsibility fell onto the shoulders of Heo Jun, the leading doctor of his age. Born out of wedlock in 1539 to an aristocratic family, there are no extant written records of how Heo started studying medicine. Some historians presume he chose to become a doctor simply because there were few options open to the middle class in a strict, hierarchical society. (Heo was not born in the aristocratic class due to the circumstances of his birth.) He soon earned himself a reputation as an able practitioner and eventually entered the Joseon Dynasty Royal Office of Medicine. The following year, in 1575, he began caring for the king alongside the official court doctor. He treated King Seonjo in 1587, and cured Prince Gwanghae (who would later become king) of disease in 1590, earning
promotion after promotion. Ultimately, he attained the highest position one could reach as a medical doctor, helping heal people with the finest medicine known at the time, while also rising from the middle class to the aristocracy. He was so trusted that he accompanied the king as the Imjin War began in 1592 and served as court doctor. When the battling appeared to be over in 1596, King Seonjo ordered all the royal doctors, led by Heo, to compile Donguibogam. However, this was far from easy, as the following year Japan invaded again, forcing a stop to their research. Though work on the medical text was revived in 1600, it was again disrupted when Heo was exiled to Uiju (now in North Korea) after King Seonjo passed away in 1608. As he was the court doctor at the time of Seonjos passing, Heo was held accountable for the kings death. Despite all the political turmoil, he never gave up on the book. Heo returned to the royal palace in 1609 when Gwanghae, now king, called on him again. The next year, Donguibogam finally saw the light of day after 14 long years in the making. It covers hundreds of medical classics from China and Korea through detailed historical research, and features a clear description of symptoms and treatments for every
A Japanese edition of the Donguibogam (opposite). A portrait of Heo Jun (above left). The Donguibogam was a comprehensive guide to Oriental medicine (above, right).
disease listed. With the addition of Heos rich clinical experience, the book was a systematic and practical medical text. Consisting of 25 volumes, Donguibogam consolidated all of East Asian medicine in the 17th century. The book is divided into five parts: four volumes for internal medicine, four for external medicine, 11 for miscellaneous diseases (including epidemics, acute diseases, pediatrics and gynecology), three volumes for remedies and one for acupuncture. There are also two volumes that serve solely as a table of contents. Its publication 400 years ago helped medical professionals immeasurably, as before Donguibogam they would have to refer to scores of different medical texts to diagnose a patients symptoms. Furthermore, it helped contribute to the development of traditional medicine in China and Japan as well. Its been centuries since the text was
first published, yet Eastern medicine is now getting more attention than ever. At the center of this effort is the Korea Institute of Oriental Medicine, which was established in 1994 under the umbrella of the Ministry of Education, Science and Technology. The institute is hoping to make another step forward for Eastern medicine through its scientific examination of the effects of acupuncture, moxibustion and medicinal herbs; the standardization of treatments; and interdisciplinary studies. Today, there are many in Korea who are working hard to globalize Eastern medicine. Perhaps with the publication of the English Donguibogam in 2013, the medical community will be inspired once more by Heo Juns dedication.
Heo Jun Museum; Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea (opposite)
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seoul
on the warehouses second floor. Retail sales follow on the main level, where 700 fishmongers and fishwives rise at 4am to start their 18-hour day. Jang Hong-gun, a 20-year Noryangjin veteran, says the only downside to the long hours is being too busy. His stall, No 106, occupies a choice spot on the markets main aisle. During the peak spring and fall seasons, hell sell 200 fish on a good day, less than 10 on a bad one. Whatever the volume, customer transactions usually follow a consistent heretical, Jang will turn your catch into a platter of hoe, or Korean-style sashimi. As he deftly cleans, skins and de-bones the fish, I ask him for the secret of fish prep. Eyes fixed on the fillet, he pauses momentarily, and then resumes with a succinct reply, Everyone has their own style. I cant explain it in words. For me its in the movement. Minutes later, Jangs wife escorts the platter downstairs to Jungang Sikdang, one of a dozen-or-so seafood restaurants located inside the market. For a flat fee of just 3,000 won per head, diners receive a wicker basket filled with lettuce and sesame leaves as well as several condiments hot pepper paste, raw slices of garlic and chili peppers. Kim says Jungang boasts the markets best Maeuntang, a spicy seafood stew made from vegetables and the remains of your fish. The fiery broth adds some kick to complement the fishs subtle flavor. Hunger satiated, there should be one more pit stop on your Noryangjin itinerary. Although the market is best known for fresh seafood, its northwest end specializes in Jeotgal. These salted and fermented seafood pastes are used as flavoring and to pickle kimchi. Among the vendors is Ryu Yang-seon. The indefatigable 79-year-old is known as the books grandmother for using her profits to fund textbooks and over 150 scholarships for needy students. Noryangjins 4,000 merchants, mongers and wholesalers help reconnect us to our food. Whats more, few experiences can capture Koreas vibrancy as an evening spent at one of Seouls bustling marketplaces.
BeFore you go Water is everywhere at the fish market, so leave your sandals and designer flats at home. Also, only professional buyers can participate in the early morning fish auctions.
Meet Your Monger

The Noryangjin fish market is a destination outside the ordinary, where exotic sea creatures, late night auctions and delicious deals showcase Koreas vibrant jangteo marketplace culture. by Matt Kelley | photographs by Choi Ji-young
Hangang River
Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market
Noryangjin Station, Subway Line 1
Noryangjin Station, Subway Line 9
Buyers crowd around the days selection at the early morning fish auction (opposite). From top left, counterclockwise: A market vendor offers a fresh catch; a view of Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market; a diner prepares a bite of hoe sashimi wrap; fresh fish await on ice.
A fresh, briny smell emerges about halfway across the overpass that connects Noryangjin Station to the roof of a weathered warehouse. After descending, youll see long rows of fish tanks stacked three and four high. Brimming with sea creatures, the Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market showcases a diversity of marine life befitting a nation surrounded by the sea. At hundreds of stalls, squid caught off Ulleungdo Island lay prostrate beside
prized gulbi (yellow Corvina) from Yeonggwang, and imported Russian pollock and Canadian lobster add international flavor. While the scallops, oysters and rows of spooning prawns may look familiar, the tanks also feature bizarre, local delicacies. Meongge, a fluorescent orange sea squirt, has roots on one end and rubbery spikes on the other. Taken as a whole, the market is a striking contrast to the antiseptic neighborhood grocery store.
Noryangjin is Koreas largest wholesale fisheries market. Established in 1927 and relocated to the south bank of the Hangang River in 1971, the market serves 30,000 customers daily and supplies 40% of greater Seouls seafood. Market operators estimate annual sales of 300 billion won (US$280 million). To process this extraordinary volume, the market is a 24-hour operation. While most Seoulites are fast asleep, at 1am a raucous, members-only auction begins
script. A fish is selected from the tanks and a price is quoted. Cleverly, negotiations are conducted while the fish gasps in Jangs hands, creating a sense of urgency. Market rates are already about 20% to 30% lower than youll find elsewhere, but a feisty customer can haggle away another 10%. Ultimately, an average-sized flounder runs from 20,000 to 25,000 won (US$18 to US$22). If cooking fish this fresh seems
www.korea.net | 21
travel
1,000 Years of Knowledge
Haeinsa Temple is hidden deep within the Gayasan Mountain of Gyeongsangnam-do Province, and within its walls is a piece of Korean Buddhist history itself: the Tripitaka Koreana. The relic celebrates its 1,000th anniversary this year in a two-month celebration. by Chung Dong-muk | photographs by Kim Nam-heon
The climate in Korea is changing. The past few months of summer have been rainy and humid, and even on the days following chuseok, the harvest holiday, the Indian summer was unyielding and oppressive. The elderly claim this year has been the hottest autumn in memory. Even so, the temperature inside Beopbojeon (Hall of Dharma), at Haeinsa Temple in southern Korea is cool. The building is one component of four that comprises Janggyeong Panjeon Hall the site where the ancient Tripitaka Koreana is stored. Beopbojeon and Sudarajang (Hall of Sutra) on the north and south sides hold the Tripitaka, while the halls of Dongsaganjeon and Seosaganjeon, on the east and west, store the Goryeogakpan (Goryeo Buddhist printing blocks).
True Home The Tripitaka, a collection
of Buddhist scriptures printed on wooden blocks, was moved to Haeinsa in 1398, and remains in perfect condition despite the fact that it is made of wood. Its pristine condition is owed to the temples natural preservation techniques: The earth beneath the buildings is mixed with charcoal, salt and lime powder, allowing the ground to
Haeinsa Temple
www.korea.net | 23
hold in moisture when the air is damp, and emit it when it is dry. This humiditycontrolling technique prevents the wooden blocks from becoming distorted and keeps away insects. The shelves are placed away from direct sunlight and, to avoid the moisture that rises from below, the lowest row of shelves was built 30cm above the floor. Windows allow for a cool breeze year-round. The scientific importance of the Tripitaka and Janggyeong Panjeon Hall has been registered on the UNESCO Memory of the World Register and is also a World Heritage Site. Haeinsa is one of the only places that carries two such designations in one place, says Monk Jonghyun. This year commemorates 1,000 years since work began on the Chojo Daejanggyeong, an early version of the Tripitaka Koreana. From Sept 23 to
Nov 6, Haeinsa Temple will hold the 2011 Millennial Anniversary of the Tripitaka Koreana, under the theme of encountering the living wisdom of a thousand years. A special ceremony was held before the festival, which demonstrated a reenactment of the parade that carried Tripitaka Koreana from Ganghwado Island to Haeinsa 600 years ago. Parades were also held in Insa-dong in Seoul and Gaegyeongpo in Goryeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do Province, to promote its cultural value. Each and every one of the 52,382,960 letters carved onto the 81,258 woodblocks is the blood and sweat of the Goryeo people, who fought nonviolently against the Mongolian invasions. We are sending the Tripitaka to Seoul, the base camp of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, to achieve
a monk examines one of the Tripitaka Koreana plates, stored inside Janggyeong Panjeon Hall at Haeinsa Temple (above left). more than 70 historical remains can be found on temple grounds (above). visitors enjoy the cool shade and crisp air at Haeinsa (opposite).
one place that should not be missed is Baengnyeonam Hermitage. Baengnyeonam Hermitage is where Venerable Seongcheol (1912-1993), one of the most honorable monks in Korea, practiced asceticism. Haeinsa was where he joined the Buddhist priesthood and achieved nirvana. Today, you can reach the hermitage by car, but its best to take the path linking the temple to Baengnyeonam. Youll notice Bulmyeonam (Buddha Face Rock) as you pass through the main gate into the hermitage. Gosimwon House, where a statue of Seongcheol is housed, is also worth a visit. The building was originally built to be a library for the monk, but he passed away just before it was completed.
From the hermitage, follow the path along Hongnyudonggyegok Valley, which begins from deep inside Gayasan and continues for 4km. Cross the bridge over the valley to reach Nongsanjeong Pavilion to enjoy the afternoon sun where Choi Chi-won, a noted Confucian official, used to stay. Every day, I perform 3,000 bows. Before I came here, I had no time to reflect on my inner self, but I am finding a new life here. I want to live in earnest from now on, as I contemplate a monks life, says Cho Yoon-joo, a temple visitor who comes to this area weekly for long walks. From this viewpoint, the pale, white face of Bodhisattva from Baengnyeonam Hermitage emerges from just beneath the trees.
Travel informaTion
How To GeT THere
Car Haeinsa IC is on 88 Olympic Seoul Expressway. From Seoul, take the DaejeonTongyeong Expressway at Haeinsa Biryong JC and transfer to 88 Olympic Expressway at Hamyang JC. From Daegu, take the 88 Olympic Expressway at Goryeong JC of Jungbu Naeryuk (Inland) Expressway. After exiting at Haeinsa IC, turn right and drive for 20 minutes along Provincial Road No 1084. Bus Buses from Daegu, Daejeon and Jinju travel to Haeinsa Temple Intercity Bus Terminal. Buses from Daegu start at 6:40am and run every 40 minutes. The ride is 1 hour and 30 minutes.
wHere To STay
solidarity among the people in Korea, says Abbot Seongak. Opening the doors of Beopbojeon and taking out the original copies is a highly rare occasion.
HiSToriCal exCurSion Haeinsa was
founded by the monks Suneung and Ijeong in 802, the third year of the reign of Silla Kingdoms King Aejang. Since its foundation, the temple has become a sacred place for Buddhism in Korea. It is home to more than 70 historical remains designated as World Heritage, National Treasure and Treasure relics. One of the charms of Haeinsa is that visitors run into graceful, beautiful hermitages and sights at every corner of the temple. But
Hotel Its best to choose accommodation around Haeinsa Temple Intercity Bus Terminal. Gobau Byeoljang (+82 55 932 5599, Korean only) is recommended for its clean rooms and kind owner. Facilities may seem a bit outdated, but provide a certain character. Sanjang Byeoljang Yeogwan (+82 55 932 7245, Korean only), a traditional Korean hanok house, has a long, oldfashioned wooden floor. Templestay Stay the night at Haeinsa for an authentic experience of a day in the life of a monk. For more information, visit www.haeinsa. or.kr or call +82 55 934 3110 (English available).
wHaT To eaT
There are plenty of restaurants near Haeinsa Temple Intercity Bus Terminal. Most serve temple food, which is vegetarian. Sanjang Sikdang (+82 55 932 7585, Korean only) is run by two friends and has received awards locally for its cuisine. Sanchae jeongsik (a dish made of wild herbs) is 24,000 won (US$22) for two.
1011
work on the Chojo Daejanggyeong, an early version of the Tripitaka Koreana, is begun
1087
The first version of the Chojo Daejanggyeong is completed
1232
mongolian invasions result in the burning and destruction of the Buddhist work
1236
reproduction of the Tripitaka Koreana is started
1251
The new Tripitaka Koreana is completed on 81,258 wooden blocks with a total weight of 280 tons
1398
The entire work is moved from Ganghwado island to Haeinsa Temple
1995
Janggyeong Panjeon Hall is listed as a uneSCo world Heritage Site
2007
Tripitaka Koreana is added to the uneSCo memory of the world register
2011
Haeinsa celebrates the origins of the first Tripitaka Koreana, Chojo Daejanggyeong, in a millennial festival
a vegetarian temple food dish
Tripitaka millennial Hall
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festival
flavor
Noodle Nostalgia
Kalguksu, which literally means knife noodles, are wheat flour noodles kneaded by hand and then shredded with a knife. While most countries carry a tradition of shaped or spun threads of noodles, the Korean version makes use of deft knife skills. The resulting slight imperfections in noodle width and size lend to a homemade charm, while the savory mildness of the noodle broth and vegetable garnishing create a healthy, unassuming flavor palette. Hot SpotS The earliest record of noodles Myeongdong Gyoja in Korean history dates back Though the lines are long, to the Goryeo Dynasty (918the turnover is quick at this legendary establishment. 1392), though kalguksu can later 25-2 Myeong-dong 2-ga, be found in the 1934 cookbook Jung-gu, Seoul The Best New Cooking Methods Phone: +82 2 776 5348 Ilpoom Baeksong of Joseon. By that point, noodles Kalguksu This cozy were considered a meal for restaurant is housed in a the upper classes, with most traditional hanok house. 264 Haengdang-dong, commoners only indulging in Seongdong-gu, Seoul the dish on special occasions. Phone: +82 2 466 2090 However, following the war, increased American imports of goods included flour, leading to the prominence of the flour-based noodles. Kalguksu noodles are made from a mixture of wheat flour, eggs and water, which is flattened out with a pin and then rolled up to form a dough log. A knife is then used to slice the roll horizontally, with each slice separating into a single strand of noodle. The broth is made from anchovies and kelp, though chicken broth can also be used. The noodles are boiled after creating the stock, at which point vegetables and seafood are added. Zucchini, scallions and potatoes are typical additions, while seafood varieties will load the bowl with oysters, clams and shrimp. Restaurants will typically specialize in the kalguksu dish, with many establishments adopting a large front window where passersby can peer in on a chef s noodle-cutting skills and be lured inside for a hot meal. Some legendary kalguksu establishments include Myeongdong Gyoja and Ilpoom Baeksong Kalguksu, which have decades-long histories of noodles and knife skills.
Handmade noodles harken back to days past, with homemade charm and irreplaceable flavor. In Korea, try the local version of traditional noodles with a bowl of kalguksu.
by Ines Min
Busan Films for Fall

The Busan International Film Festival, Asias largest international film event, kicks off this month with a fresh start, a new main venue and a host of muchanticipated films. by Ines Min
from top left, clockwise: A celebrity walks down the red carpet at the 2010 Busan International film festival; fireworks light up opening night; a scene from 2011 opener Always; a BIff poster.
For cinephiles across the country, October is the month to head down south. The Busan International Film Festival (BIFF), Koreas renowned cinematic event, launches its 16th edition in the port city from Oct 6 to 14. More than 300 films from 70 countries will be screened at the event, 135 of which will be premieres. This year will see some changes, with the opening of the newlyconstructed Busan Film Center, a venue that includes a 4,000seat outdoor screening area. Local director Song Il-gons Always, starring So Ji-sub and Han Hyo-joo, will open the event, and Japanese director Masato Haradas Chronicle of my Mother will close. Special guests this year include Luc Besson, Michelle Yeoh, Tsui Hark, Isabelle Huppert and Amir Naderi. The festival is comprised of several sections, including the competitive New Currents program for debuting Asian directors; the Gala Presentation of the years most-anticipated international movies (Bessons The Lady will screen this year); the Flash Forward section that seeks new talent from non-Asian countries; and Korean Cinema Retrospective, which takes a look at noteworthy directors, actors and films from local history. Other events help industry insiders connect with others, such as the Asian Project Market. The event connects promising filmmakers with producers, while AdMISSIon feeS investors can explore a diverse range of the latest Asian projects. Tickets to opening and closing This will be the first year without ceremonies are 20,000 won (US$18) and tickets to general legendary founding director Kim screenings are 6,000 won Dong-ho, who created the festival in (US$5.40). For more 1996 and retired last year. information, visit www.biff.kr.
Busan International Film Festival; Topic Images (opposite)
A hot bowl of kalguksu noodles.
www.korea.net | 27
entertainment
Expats Hit Korean Airwaves

While many Korean celebrities are renowned throughout Asia, a crop of foreigners are becoming stars of their own right in Korea. by Emma Kalka
Korea has already gained acclaim across Asia for its TV dramas and celebrities, but over the years, new faces have been showing up on the small screen expats and nonethnic Koreans. Since the 1990s, a greater diversity has been getting airtime and today, they appear in every corner of the entertainment industry. Music groups (such as 2PM and Miss A), commercials, variety shows and reality shows are portraying more multiethnic faces, and cameos by expats are becoming common in dramas as well. Though one of the most well-known international stars is Australian model Jessica Gomes who rose to fame after appearing in ads for LG and has starred in her own reality TV show many expats fell into their roles unintentionally. So how did they attract the attention of the industry? Entertainer Robert Holley has lived in Korea for roughly 27 years, and says he began his career in entertainment here because of his ability to not only speak Korean, but to speak in the distinctive, southern Busan accent. In Korea, it is still uncommon for foreigners to speak in the dialect, but it was especially so when Holley first got his start in the 90s. They had never heard it before, he says, speaking of the producers who offered him his first job at an SBS affiliate in Busan. Holley started out doing a weekly morning show as a reporter, and today has ventured into acting and radio DJ work. Though he never expected to enter the entertainment industry when he first came here in his 20s as a missionary, he fell in love with the country and returned after graduating from university to practice international law. His time in the field has helped him develop his characteristic comedic personality, but Holley faces some setbacks inherent in the industry. He says one of the biggest obstacles for foreign entertainers is a limitation to what roles they are given. Its not likely that there will be foreigners as emcees, and thats regretful, Holley says.
exchange student from South Africa, and like Holley, never Around the same time as Holley, another non-ethnic expected to get into entertainment. Though it was a tough Korean was getting her start in the Korean talk show circuit. decision to go on the show (Mullen doubted her speaking Frenchwoman-turned-Korean national Ida Daussy rose to TV abilities), she joined in order to ease the financial burden on fame in the 90s by speaking about her life in Korea, including her family while she studied in Korea. Many people fell in her marriage to a Korean. Daussy, who has written a book about her experiences, says that despite being a Korean citizen, love with Mullens bright personality and, at first, charmingly awkward Korean. Since leaving Misuda, Mullen has gone on to it can still be difficult to find acceptance at times. In a 2007 do journalism and appear in commercials. interview, she said that while Korea is becoming more diverse, Filipina Jasmine Lee grew in acclaim society is still like oil and water. Bronwyn Mullen, expat celeb from South after appearing on a TV show about Overcoming these challenges, Daussy Africa (opposite). From top left, clockwise: Ida Daussy with one of her published multicultural families. She eventually led the way for a younger generation of works; Jessica Gomes; Robert Holley, right. became the host of the program and is foreign TV celebrities. The show Misuda (or Participants from Misuda (below). now a staunch advocate for the rights Global Talk Show) jumpstarted careers for of immigrant wives. Vietnamese Ha many expat women in Korea. Each episode, Hwang Haiyen gained popularity with her a Korean panel would chat with a group appearances on dramas, after also being a of diverse women living here who spoke panelist on Misuda. Both Lee and Ha have Korean. The show gained popularity after its become Korean citizens. start in 2006, but was cancelled in 2010. But why are Koreans fascinated with Some former panelists have gone on to these stars? Kim Hae-un, 25, says its land commercial deals or launch music and because its interesting to see others learn acting careers in Korea. One of the most about Korean culture. The viewers witness famous of the Misuda Girls, as they are their progress in how they adapt and often called, is Bronwyn Mullen. succeed, so you root for them, she says. Mullen came to Korea in 2005 as an
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sports
Kenyan Edna Kiplagat (Womens marathon: Gold)
Brazilian Fabiana Murer (Pole vault: Gold)
Jamaican Usain Bolt (200m, 4x100m relay: Gold) British David Dai Greene (400m hurdles: Gold)
Australian Sally Pearson (100m hurdles: Gold)
Grenadian Kirani James (400m: Gold)
HigH Drama in Daegu
Daegu IAAF World Championships (left, right); Yonhap News Agency
From Aug 27 to Sept 4, Daegu hosted nearly 2,000 athletes from more than 200 countries. By the time the IAAF World Championships had wrapped up, fans had been treated to nine days of drama and excitement. by Matt Flemming
KiM HyUn-SUB
The host nations best performance came from race walker Kim Hyun-sub, who placed sixth in the mens 20km walk. Kim, seen as one of Koreas best hopes to win its first medal at the IAAF World Championships ever, had Koreas best finish in any event since 1993. Kim clocked in at 1:21:17, before collapsing after crossing the finish line. The sixth-place finish represented a huge improvement over the last World Championships, where he was 34th, raising hopes that he could contend for an Olympic medal next year.
oSCAr PiStoriUS
Oscar Pistorius became the first amputee to win a medal in an able-bodied IAAF competition. Born without fibulae, Pistorius lower legs were removed before his first birthday. He runs using Cheetah Flex-Foot artificial limbs, earning him the nickname Blade Runner. In his first world championships, Pistorius made history by reaching the semifinals in the mens 400m. He was part of the South African team that won silver in the mens 4x400m relay, though he did not race in the final.
Daegu IAAF World Championships; Yonhap News Agency (opposite right column)
For nine days in August, one of the most watched sporting events descended on the city of Daegu, with the worlds best track and field athletes in attendance for the International Association of Athletics Federations (IAAF) World Championships. In competition, the event was truly unpredictable as the meet moved along, spectators came to expect the unexpected. Local organizers say the event succeeded in putting Daegu on the map, while the event was praised by international sports officials and athletes. Attendance exceeded expectations despite the low profile of track and field in the Korean sports landscape, and few if any legitimate medal hopes among the South Korean contingent. In the end, the Americans ran away with the largest gold medal tally (12) and the most medals overall (25), ahead of second-place Russia with nine gold and 19 total medals. But the man who grabbed most of the headlines in Daegu
was Jamaican sprinter Usain Bolt. The enigmatic 25-year-old without question the sports biggest star experienced both gut-wrenching disappointment and glory in Daegu. The IAAF World Championships signature event, the mens 100m, couldnt have been more anticlimactic. With the world watching, many were hoping for another record-shattering sprint from Bolt like the one that captivated the world at the Beijing Olympics in 2008. But Bolt jumped early at the starting line and was disqualified, leaving all in attendance in a state of shock. Jamaicas Yohan Blake went on to win the gold medal ahead of American Walter Dix, but much of the talk after the race was about Bolts false start. I didnt really think they were going to kick him out. How can you kick Usain out of the race? Dix was quoted as saying after the race. I dont think it is right. These things happen but you have to give people
a chance, said bronze medalist Kim Collins of St Kitts and Nevis, in reference to the new rule that sees any runner charged with a false start disqualified. But critics not only pointed fingers at the unforgiving rules but also at Bolt himself. An anomaly among the worlds most dominant athletes, Bolt has neither the work ethic, the drive nor the focus seen in such stars as tennis player Roger Federer, basketball player Kobe Bryant or footballer Lionel Messi. Bolt manages to maintain his superhuman speed while living much like any regular person. Im so lucky that Im raw talent, Bolt told the Associated Press. If I really worked at it I could be extremely good indeed, but I never have. Yes, I put the effort in at times, but I could do more, he said. If I train right, eat right, go to the gym all the time and dedicate myself 100% then I definitely will do crazy times... Its hard, man. I dont know how some sportsmen do it. He added, I do what I like, stay up till
whatever time I feel like, socialize when I like and eat what I like. I dont follow any of the rules. While his blistering runs made him famous, it is that laidback, charismatic personality that made him a global icon. Bolt said little after the 100m final but vowed that he would bounce back and that the disappointment wouldnt hinder his ability in his other two events. Bolt would indeed redeem himself and give the crowd the eye-popping performance they were eagerly anticipating just a few days later. He went on to capture the gold medal in the 200m, posting the fourth-fastest time ever. He also closed the show by anchoring the Jamaican mens 4x100m relay team to a gold medal and a new world record on the final day, sending a message that hes still the man to beat at the Olympics in London next year. For me, the championships started off very bad, so this is a wonderful feeling to end the championships with a world record, he said.
runners race in the mens 400m final on Day 4 of the Daegu iAAF World Championships, which Grenadian Kirani James, second from right, won (opposite). Athletes leap over a water pit during the womens 3,000m steeplechase on Day 4 of the championship games (above).
CovEr CUrSE Bolt was not the only
gold medal favorite who failed to top the podium in the first few days of the event. It became known as the cover curse, as several of the athletes featured on the cover of each days program failed to live up to expectations. It began with Australian pole vaulter Steve Hooker, who failed to advance beyond the qualifying round of the mens pole vault. Following Bolts disqualification on Day 3, Cuban hurdler Dayron Robles crossed the finish line first but was disqualified for interfering with another runner. Then, it was charismatic Russian pole vaulter Elena Isinbayeva, the gold medalist and world record holder from Beijing, who placed a disappointing sixth. American Allyson Felix, the threetime defending world champion in the
AllySon FElix
American sprinter Allyson Felix was the top medal winner in Daegu, as she left Korea with four medals two gold medals, a silver and a bronze. The 25-year-old from Los Angeles was a member of both the 4x100m and 4x400m relay teams that won gold medals. Her silver medal came in the 400m, where she was edged out at the line by Amantle Montsho of Botswana. The bronze was in the 200m.
womens 200m who graced the cover on the day of the 200m, ended up with the bronze. She shared the cover with Carmelita Jeter, who was edged out by winner Jamaican Veronica CampbellBrown. While Jeter settled for silver in the 200m, she still claimed two gold medals in the 100m and the 4x100m relay. Finally, two-time defending womens triple jump champion Yargelis Savigne was injured and placed sixth. The cover curse became such a talked-about phenomenon that when
From above, clockwise: Winners of the 800m bite their medals; Carmelita Jeter waves a US flag in victory; Jeter (left) and veronica Campbell-Brown hug after the 100m final; Ukrainian olha Saladukha bites her gold medal; iAAF President lamine Diack opens the Daegu games on Aug 27.
MEDAlS StAnDinGS (toP 10)

Country United States Russia Kenya Jamaica Germany Great Britain China Australia Ethiopia Ukraine Gold 12 9 7 4 3 2 1 1 1 1 Silver 8 4 6 4 3 4 2 1 0 0 Bronze 5 6 4 1 1 1 1 1 4 1 total 25 19 17 9 7 7 4 3 5 2
Daegu IAAF World Championships
Australian Sally Pearson, cover model on Sept 1, won the gold medal in the womens 100m hurdles, she promptly stomped a copy of the program into the track. I wasnt going to let anything, let alone a silly cover curse, stop me from running fast tonight. I was so determined and so hungry to win, said Pearson, who recorded the biggest margin of victory in history and the fastest time in the last 20 years. Overall, few of Beijings stars were able to repeat their success in Daegu. In the opening five days alone, just three of the 18 Beijing Olympic champions won gold again. Cover curses aside, Daegu may have illustrated how fleeting success in track and field can be, but this allowed several new stars to shine. Among them, Jamaican Yohan Blake emerged from the mens 100m, and may have even beaten Bolt had he not jumped at the line. Its a wonderful feeling, trust me, said Blake after the race. Im feeling over the moon right now. I can hardly
find words to talk about it, but to win the gold medal at 21 is a great feeling. He also spoke of maintaining his composure when his teammate was disqualified. Knowing that he is my close friend and training partner, I just had to go out there and get the job done because I know thats what he would have wanted me to do. Kirani James of Grenada won gold in the mens 400m, outrunning LaShawn Merritt of the United States in the final stretch. James, at just 19 years old and running in only his fourth professional race, made a remarkable comeback in the final 50m. It was a huge victory for his home country, which has a population of just 100,000. Being from a small place, you get so much support from everybody, James said. And thats what gives me my inspiration, knowing that you cant let them down. It also bodes extremely well for the young runner ahead of next years Olympics and for the years to come.
James coach Harvey Glance predicted the 19-year-old would challenge the longstanding world record of American Michael Johnson in the 400m. When Michael broke his record he must have been 26 or 27 years old. James is only going to get faster and stronger. He really wants to put his country on the map. We want to rewrite history. There were also a handful of Cinderella stories, including the UKs David Dai Greene in the mens 400m hurdles. Greene, a 25-year-old who has battled injuries for several years, was not considered a medal hopeful in the event, but came from behind to give his nation an unexpected gold. I had a lot of injuries in 06, 07, 08. I was really struggling to make the squad, he said. Now, look at me. I have totally changed that around and I am a totally different person, and a different athlete altogether. It was a good step to where I am now. I would never have been world champion if I didnt have those moments.
PUttinG DAEGU on tHE MAP The
WorlD CHAMPionSHiPS AttEnDAnCE

2011 Daegu 2007 Osaka 2009 Berlin
decision to award the 2011 IAAF World Championships to Daegu was not without its critics. Many questioned whether the little-known Korean city was capable of successfully hosting one of the worlds largest sporting events, but also, whether Koreans would show up to the 66,000-seat stadium. But Daegu residents turned out in droves, not only as spectators, but as volunteers as well. Reported attendance for the nine-day event was 445,000, just short of organizers target of 454,000. But the total surpassed the 397,000 that watched the 2009 event in Berlin and the 254,000 attendance mark from Osaka four years ago. In addition, about 6,700 volunteers helped out at the stadium and other venues, welcoming athletes. Daegus mayor and co-chair of the championships organizing committee Kim Bum-il said the response from local citizens was about civic pride. In a country where track and field
254,000
397,000
445,000
isnt very popular, citizens dedicated themselves for the successful staging of the championships. Kim added that hed received excellent feedback from International Olympic Committee President Jacques Rogge and IAAF President Lamine Diack. In particular, they highly valued the citizens enthusiastic participation and quality management of the Championships. At the conclusion of the event, Diack said, Our sport has been treated like royalty here in Daegu. These have been an excellent World Championships ... This represents a victory for Korea and for the whole continent of Asia, for which we have great hopes.
special issue
The UN World Tourism Organization will convene in Gyeongju this month, highlighting local tourism while strategizing global methods to boost the economy. by Emma Kalka
UNWTO Comes to Korea
The historical coastal city of Gyeongju in the southern part of Korea is expected to see a boost in tourism thanks to the upcoming 19th Session of the UN World Tourism Organization General Assembly meeting, to be held from Oct 8 to 14. The global gathering will highlight Gyeongju as a tourist destination, while allowing tourism professionals, culture ministers and other participants to discuss ways to better the industry around the world and eventually help improve the global economy. This is the second time Korea has played host to the
meeting, with the first time taking place in 2001 when Seoul shared the honor with Japan. For this years event, 1,000 tourism ministers, representatives of tourism-related organizations, scholars and businessmen from 154 member countries and 370 related organizations are expected to converge on the city. Koreas Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism hopes the event will put Gyeongju on the map as an international tourist destination with its historical and cultural offerings. It also hopes to provide an example of sustainable tourism
for the international professionals in attendance. Thanks to walls for its many cultural and archeological sites. Besides hosting the 19th Session of the General Assembly of UNWTO, Yangdong Village, other important sites in the city are Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple. The city is located Gyeongju will be promoted to tourism experts from all over the world. Were preparing many events for them to experience along the southeastern coast about 370km southeast of Seoul. This years gathering is under the theme of sustainable the diverse aspects of the city, one ministry official said. tourism. The delegates and participating organizations plan Participants will tour Yangdong Village, a Joseon Era (1392to discuss, throughout the gatherings meetings and plenary 1910) village that was listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage sessions, how tourism can be used to address social problems Site in August 2010. The village is widely acclaimed for its and facilitate sustainable growth in the world economy. preservation and display of yangban culture, or the Korean Additionally, international historical aristocracy, lifestyle tourism leaders will discuss and Neo-Confucian traditions. ways tourism can contribute Today, about 500 people continue to protecting the natural to live in the village and 54 of the environment. houses are more than 200 years The meeting begins Oct 8 with old. Prior to the Joseon Era, the a meeting of the Committee on region of Gyeongju was once a Budget and Finance. Following stronghold of the Silla Kingdom, that, the Program Committee and and the ministry is hoping the the Commission for Africa will global gathering will help the city kick off, while the commissions gain a place in the international for the remaining continents, spotlight for tourism. including the Commission for The Yangdong tour is part East Asia and the Pacific, will of several events taking place take place the following day. The for members of the General official opening ceremony will Assembly, which center on begin on the evening of Oct 9 the historical, traditional and with several plenary sessions experiential. The historical tour taking place in the following days. will focus on sites that represent The 92nd session of the Executive the millennium-long history of the area, while the cultural tour Council Meeting, which occurs will focus on hands-on activities twice a year, will take place on the such as ceremonial tea-making last day of the event on Oct 14. Participants from Portugal at a meeting of the UNWTO (opposite). and traditional handicrafts. The Throughout the gathering, An awards ceremony of the UNWTO (top). The 2009 General experiential green tour will allow Assembly was held in Kazakhstan (above). Koreas culture ministry has participants to bask in healthy vowed to actively use technology, activities. Participants will also be able to try on hanbok and will go paperless and minimize use of disposable goods in (Korean traditional clothing) and taste local delicacies, such as order to keep the event as environmentally friendly as possible. Gyeongju bread (a soft pastry filled with sweet red bean paste), And in order to keep delegates better connected, the ministry which will be available in an informational exhibit. has launched a blog and accounts on social networking sites The ministry has said it hopes tourism to Gyeongju will such as Twitter and Facebook. grow because of the event, as well as the opening of a KTX line The World Tourism Organization is an agency within the to the area and other global events taking place in the region, UN that focuses on tourism. Its General Assembly is the such as the World Culture Expo. All the events are being used largest and most significant meeting of government officials as vehicles to promote Visit Korea Year, which has the goal of on tourism globally, and is held every two years. The agency attracting 10 million visitors to Korea by 2012. was founded in 1975 with the goal of developing the economy Gyeongju is the second largest city in Gyeongsangbukthrough the tourism industry, and became an official UN do Province and is often referred to as the museum without agency in 2003.
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summit diplomacy
New GaiNs iN CeNtral asia

Since taking office in 2008, President Lee Myung-bak has focused on energy diplomacy, as the country relies heavily on imports of energy and natural resources. His trip to Central Asia in August was in line with his pragmatic endeavors as Korea successfully concluded massive deals on natural resources and energy development with three countries. by Ser Myo-ja
Aimed at improving Koreas energy cooperation with Central Asia, President Lee Myung-bak visited Mongolia, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan in August and clinched key agreements. Lee visited Mongolia as a state guest from Aug 21 to 23, before visiting Uzbekistan from Aug 23 to 24 and Kazakhstan from Aug 24 to 25. Throughout his Central Asian tour, Lee focused on solidifying Koreas ties with the energy-rich nations, building trust with the leaders and securing steady natural resources. Expanding TiEs The first destination of Lees five-day tour was Mongolia, and a summit between Lee and President Tsakhiagiyn Elbegdorj of Mongolia took place on Aug 22 in the capital, Ulan Bator. At the meeting, the two leaders agreed to improve their bilateral relationship to a comprehensive partnership, and signed a series of agreements. The highlight of the trip came when the two countries signed a memorandum of understanding
president Lee Myung-bak, left, greets Mongolian president Tsakhiagiyn Elbegdorj in Ulan Bator, aug 22 (opposite). Lee accepts a bouquet on his arrival to astana, Kazakhstan, on aug 24 (above left). Lee speaks to a forum in Uzbekistan (above).
(MOU) on the cooperation of peaceful use of radioactive materials and atomic energy. The agreement is seen as laying the foundation for the Korean companies developments of Mongolias rare earth metals and uranium mines. We also agreed to strengthen the workinglevel cooperation between the two governments further, Lee said. Known for its rich natural resources, Mongolia has a large reserve of rare earth metals. According to a US Geological Survey in 2009, the country holds 31 million-ton reserves of rare earth metals, which accounts for 16% of the worlds reserve. Mongolia is famous for its uranium and rare earth metals, said Cheong Wa Dae (also known as the Blue House) spokesman Park Jeong-ha. It also has large reserves of copper, molybdenum, gold and coal. The country is important
geopolitically as it is located between Europe and Asia. To improve energy and resource cooperation, the Ministry of Knowledge Economy of Korea and the Ministry of Mineral Resources and Energy of Mongolia signed an MOU to strengthen strategic cooperation in the fields of energy and resources. Korea and Mongolia agreed to strengthen technology exchanges in thermal power generation and the renewable energy industry. They also agreed to cooperate in developing and supplying environmentally friendly coal fuels and jointly work on projects to fight climate change. Joint explorations of natural resources were also promised. At the summit, Lee agreed to provide Koreas technological expertise to Mongolia to help its infrastructure, health care and agricultural development. The two countries health ministers signed an agreement to push forward the Seoul Project, through which Korean medical institutions will actively enter the
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Mongolian market and support the Central Asian countrys advancement in the medical sector. The two countries also promised cooperation in environmental programs to prevent the desertification of Mongolia and to lessen Koreas damage from yellow dust. To this end, they pledged to strengthen their efforts in reforestation programs in Mongolia, to be completed in 2016. a MaJOR pROJECT The second stop on Lees Central Asian itinerary was Uzbekistan, and the highlight of the trip came on Aug 23 when Korea signed a massive gas field development deal with the country. The project, worth US$4.1 billion (4.5 trillion won), was concluded shortly after Lees summit with his Uzbek counterpart President Islam Karimov. At the meeting, which took place in Tashkent, the two presidents agreed to work closely together for the success of the joint energy project. Known as the Surgil Project, Uzbekistan plans to develop the Surgil gas field near the Aral Sea, and build and operate gas and chemical plants. According to Cheong Wa Dae officials, the project is the largest ever deal concluded between Korea and Uzbekistan. Believed to hold 130 billion cubic meters of natural gas, the Surgil gas field is capable of producing 96 million tons of liquefied natural gas, equivalent to 830 million barrels of crude oil. The project is designed to develop the field and build and operate a processing plant. With the leaders agreement, the Korean consortium of UZKOR and Uzbekistans state-run gas company
UNG signed four related contracts. The Korean consortium included the countrys key companies GS Engineering & Construction Corp, Samsung Engineering Co and Hyundai Engineering Co. Koreas UZKOR and Uzbekistans UNG will each hold a 50% stake in the project. At a joint press conference, Lee and Karimov both praised the two countries cooperation in the energy project. Calling the Surgil Project one of the largest deals not only in Uzbekistan, but also in all Central Asia and the CIS [Commonwealth of Independent States] regions, Karimov said the program will help solidify his countrys development. Karimov said Uzbekistan is willing to expand its supplies of strategic resources, such as non-ferrous metal, rare earth metals and uranium to Korea. And we also plan to introduce advanced equipment from Korea to modernize our industry, he added. In addition to the project, the two governments signed a deal for a joint exploration for rare earth metals and
uranium in Uzbekistan. Cheong Wa Dae said the agreement will pave the way for Korea to secure mining rights to precious resources in the Central Asian country. Marking the 20th anniversary of the two countries diplomatic relations, the two leaders pledged to expand their countries cultural and people exchanges. On Aug 24, Lee attended a
Lee waves from atop a camel during a farewell ceremony in Ulan Bator on aug 23 (opposite above). Lee tries his hand at archery (opposite below). First lady Kim yoon-ok visits a local Mongolian hospital on aug 22 (above).
business forum hosted by the chambers of commerce of Korea and Uzbekistan. EnERgy dEaLs Lee and the Korean delegations final destination was Kazakhstan. At the summit, Lee and Kazakhstan President Nursultan Nazarbayev agreed to closely cooperate in massive energy projects. According to Cheong Wa Dae, the two leaders reached the consensus at the summit that Koreas active participation in Kazakhstans infrastructure development projects will largely benefit both countries. Two major projects were agreed upon following the summit, the largest since Korea established diplomatic ties with Kazakhstan in 1992. An intergovernmental agreement was signed after the summit,
guaranteeing Koreas 70% stake in a US$4 billion project to build a coalfired power plant in Kazakhstans southern city of Balkhash. The Korean consortium for the project includes Samsung Corporation and the staterun Korea Electric Power Corporation. The projects goal is to build and operate a thermal plant with the capacity of 1,320 megawatts off the lake of Balkhash. According to the Ministry of Knowledge Economy, the KEPCO and Samsung will have 35% stake each, while the state-run electricity company of Kazakhstan, Samruk Energy, will have 25% stake and Kazakhmys 5%. Under the agreement, Korea will produce and supply highquality electricity to the economy of Kazakhstan for the next three decades, and Cheong Wa Dae officials said the two countries economic cooperation will deepen because of the program. Another major contract was also signed during Lees visit. Koreas LG
Chem sealed a deal with Kazakhstan Petrochemical Industries to establish a joint venture to build a petrochemical complex in Atyrau off the Caspian Sea. The US$4 billion project is designed to build a complex that will process ethane gas from the Tengiz oil field and produce about 800,000 tons of polyethylene annually. According to the government, the envisioned complex will be completed by 2016 and commercial production is scheduled to begin the following year. To finance the Atyrau petrochemical complex project, an agreement was signed between the Export-Import Bank of Korea, the Korea Trade Insurance Corporation and UCC, the parent company of Kazakhstan Petrochemical Industries. These kinds of massive projects cannot be just agreed upon overnight, Lees aide said. For the past two years, the projects were discussed each time the two leaders held summits. The Atyrau project particularly saw an important turning point when Nazarbayev visited Korea last year. At the joint news conference, the two leaders celebrated the deals. In addition to the two massive projects, worth a total of US$8 billion, the Korean Kolon Group concluded a deal in Kazakhstan to build 100 compressed natural gas stations. The US$250 million project is to be completed by 2015. As Lee wrapped up his five-day trip to Central Asia, Cheong Wa Dae praised the presidents pragmatic, sales diplomacy. Through his three-country trip, Lee signed deals worth a total of US$12 billion, and secured a foothold in the emerging markets.
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global korea
Stepping up the peacekeeping

Korea sent 240 peacekeepers to Haiti last year and 359 soldiers to Lebanon this year. The country has become one of the most active members in UN peacekeeping operations, having dispatched 1,453 peacekeeping soldiers to 14 countries in 18 regions. by Lim Ji-young
On July 25, UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon met with members of Koreas National Defense Committee at the UN headquarters in New York. The meeting was intended to request the deployment of non-combatant personnel to the Republic of South Sudan, which had recently attained independence on July 9. He asked Korea to consider sending noncombatant forces, such as medics, as the nation has skilled soldiers and advanced equipment. Bans request ignited a national interest in Korea about the role and status of peacekeeping operations across the world. Korea joins peaceKeepers The United Nations Department of Peacekeeping Operations (DPKO) is the organizations military arm used to help resolve international conflicts in a peaceful manner. Korea first participated in peacekeeping operations after it was admitted to the United Nations in September 1991. At the time, the international community was strengthening their ties to conduct joint peacekeeping operations in the wake of the Gulf War. Since the 1990 Gulf War was won by multinational forces, the UN has worked hard to resolve international conflicts and maintain stability. The first time the Korean military took part in UN peacekeeping operations, it dispatched its Evergreen Unit, an amalgamated Republic of Korea (ROK) army battalion-sized engineering unit, to the country of Somalia. Since then, Koreas peacekeeping operations have expanded. The country sent army medics to the Western
Sahara in 1994, monitored personnel in India, Pakistan and Georgia, and sent an engineering battalion to Angola in 1995. The Evergreen Unit gained prominence after being stationed in Somalia from July 1993 to April 1994, and after being sent to Angola in October 1995. However, Koreas early participation in peacekeeping operations was limited to combat support, such as engineers and medics, and excluded infantry soldiers. The turning point came during the Kim Dae-jung administration, when infantry units were dispatched to East Timor in 1999. A peacekeeping force of 52 Koreans was sent to three regions in 1998. By 2002, more than 900 members were
a member of the Dongmyeong Unit poses with local children in Lebanon (opposite above). a Dongmyeong veterinarian treats a cow (opposite below). Dongmyeong soldiers offer medical treatment to a child (below).
active in five conflict areas. With a battalion strength of 420 personnel 201 ROK Special Forces soldiers, with remaining personnel drawn from transportation, supply, communications and medical specialties the first Evergreen Unit arrived in Lospalos, East Timor, in October 1999. In December of that same year, officers at the lieutenant colonel level were dispatched to cooperate with the UN. A month later, three Korean officers joined the UNs DPKO to serve as staff officers. The Evergreen Unit switched over to the new UN Peacekeeping Force (UNPKF) for the very first time as part of a multinational force in February 2000, moving from Lospalos to Oecusse. The Evergreen Unit was responsible for security in the region, border control, and other civilian operations, completing its mission and earning the nickname of King of the
Peacekeeping Operations
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Multinational Force. They withdrew in 2003. Lieutenant General Hwang Jin-ha became the first Korean military officer to serve as commander of Cyprus peacekeeping operations from January 2002 to December 2003, returning to Korea after a successful two-year stint. In 2004, Korea expanded its operations to the Western Sahara, Georgia, Liberia, Burundi, India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, as well as to the UN Secretariat. Twenty people were sent to the Western Sahara, 16 people to UN Military Observer Groups in Georgia, India and Pakistan, and one military observer sent to Liberia. In July 2004, the Zaytun Unit, which consisted of 300 troops, was deployed to Arbil, northern Iraq. After completing the reconstruction mission over a period of four years and three months, up until December 2008, they earned the praise of allies for their exemplary operations.
peace anD more Koreas army has been active in UN peacekeeping operations for almost 20 years, giving it a chance to accumulate military experience and nurture personnel with overseas experience. In 2009, United Nations Interim Force in Lebanon (UNIFIL) Commander Lieutenant-General Claudio Graziano awarded a UN medal to Koreas Dongmyeong Unit, which had been sent to Lebanon. He praised the unit by saying, Korea achieved amazing economic growth out of the ashes of the Korean War and with the help of the UN. The Dongmyeong Unit was a model division and greater than any other PKO forces in Lebanon. Lt Gen Hwang adds, Koreas PKO units are considered the best in the world. More than anyone else, we know how to deal with armed conflicts probably because weve been through a civil war ourselves. We have a strong economy and are excellent at civilian
operations. Our overseas troops have accumulated a lot of PKO know-how. Koreas army is currently playing a significant role in peacekeeping around the world, as it has sent a total of 1,453 troops to 14 different nations and 18 different regions. This is a significant achievement for a nation which just over 60 years ago required the assistance of 16 other countries during its own civil war. Korean troops have been deployed to hot spots everywhere to conduct peacekeeping and reconstruction operations according to UN Security Council resolutions and decisions made by the countrys National Assembly. As of August, combatant forces were active in Somalia (Cheonghae Unit), Lebanon (Dongmyeong Unit) and Afghanistan (Oshino Unit). Last summer, an advance party from the Oshino Unit left for Bagram Air Base in Afghanistan, and is responsible for protecting members who are helping
rebuild the nation. In addition, Korean personnel were sent to eight regions, including eight UN Observer Mission in Georgia members to India and Pakistan and four members of the Election Surveillance Unit to the Western Sahara. Korea has also dispatched a naval battleship with the Cheonghae Unit to the Gulf of Aden, around the horn of Africa, in pursuit of Somali pirates. The unit has escorted over 260 Korean ships and joined the CTF-151, an international naval task force set up in response to pirate attacks, for 238 days in 132 anti-pirate operations. The unit has captured 24 pirate ships in 16 operations, while saving civilian ships from the threat of pirates more than 10 times. When the Korean-operated Samho Jewelry was hijacked in the Arabian Sea by Somali pirates in January 2011, South Korean Navy commandors stormed the ship and rescued all 21 crew members. The unprecedented rescue mission is considered the most successful achievement of all Koreas naval peacekeeping operations. With a growing influence in peacekeeping, Korea has long-term plans to increase the size of its troops, as the Defense Ministry has announced it would dissolve the special warfare command and instead establish a 1,000-strong division thats always ready for overseas deployment. Last April, work was completed on a hospital and vocational training institute on Bagram Air Base to help with Afghanistans reconstruction. The hospital is a 3,000sqm concrete building, with two operating rooms, 30 beds, and medical offices for the
nUmber of overseas Korean pKo personneL

Division Military Lebanon Dongmyeong Unit Haiti Task Force Danbi cUrrent staff 359 240 8 2 6 1 2 5 2 4 2 region Tyre Leogane Rawalpindi Monrovia Juba Abyei Darfur Naqoura Abidjan Laayoune Port-au-Prince first Dispatch July 2007 Feb 2010 Nov 1994 Oct 2003 July 2011 July 2011 June 2009 Jan 2007 July 2009 July 2009 Nov 2009
UN Military Observer Group in India and Pakistan UN Missions in Liberia UN Missions in the Republic of South Sudan UN Interim Security Force for Abyei Individual UN-African Union Mission in Darfur UN Interim Force in Lebanon UN Operation in Cte dIvoire UN Mission for the Referendum in Western Sahara UN Stabilization Mission in Haiti
Locals and members of the Dongmyeong Unit celebrate the groundbreaking for a new Korea road in Lebanon (opposite). soldiers play a game of Yunnori with local students (above).
internal and surgical departments. Today, 49 Koreans work there as doctors, nurses and pharmacists. The vocational training center is a 4,000sqm building managed by Koreas Human Resources Development Service and under supervision of the Korea International Cooperation Agency. At present, the institute offers five different courses that teach skills to do with automobiles, welding, construction, electricity and computers to 75 local citizens. Ban is said to have asked for 200-300 troops Korean troops to be deployed to South Sudan in connection with
Koreas Defense Ministry plan, as he seeks various approaches to offer more help. South Sudan achieved independence from Sudan through a national referendum, and the UN has been deploying peacekeeping troops there since it signed a peace agreement ending the 21-year civil war between the Sudanese government and rebels in January 2005. Although Koreans are now waiting to see whether peacekeeping forces will be sent to South Sudan as Ban requested, six Korean personnel have been present in South Sudan since last July. Kim Sook, Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary to the United Nations, says, Korea is contributing to the international community in many ways. Over 1,000 troops have been sent on peacekeeping missions, and Korea now pays the 10th largest amount of money to these operations of any country. Sending troops overseas means Korea is able to work together with the international community for the advancement of global democracy, laying the groundwork to end conflicts and help realize national interests.
Peacekeeping Operations
www.korea.net | 45
my korea
Fortunately, for the benefit of my piggy bank, the adult who handed me the cash shoved it back into my hand, nodding reassuringly. I admit, it was nice to get cash from a stranger for no real reason. Unfortunately, this was a once in a blue moon incident, as we didnt live near a Korean community and I soon became old enough to not warrant such allowances. But while I was still the age to benefit from this cultural quirk, explaining the sudden expansion of my wallet to friends would always be followed by a jealous groan. But my friends and I had no idea how the kids halfway around the world in Korea were growing up. While I only received this special allowance on the rare occasion, children who grow up in a culturally Korean home and are surrounded by other Koreans will find their wallets filled with cash several times throughout the year. This is because Bujo is an old tradition, deeply ingrained into the Korean people. During the Lunar New Year, children, after donning their Korean traditional clothes, hanbok, and performing respectful bows to their elders, will receive money. Depending on their age and the size of the family that has gathered, a child can receive around 50,000 won (US$43.55), or more. But on other holidays, events and long-awaited reunions, bowing isnt necessarily a precursor to receiving a small financial boost, as children are handed dough, no quid pro quo. Money can even be given to you randomly, if you happen to catch the eye of a senior citizen. One time, while I was waiting in line at the local E-mart superstore, I saw an elderly man take out his billfold and pull out a 1,000 won bill (US$0.89). He handed it to the little boy in front of him who, as far as I could tell, he had no relation to. He pinched his cheeks and said to the little boy, get something good to eat. Immediately, his mother turned around and tried to hand the money back, but the elderly man insisted. Hes cute, the man chuckled, making sure the little boy got the crinkled blue bill. It can be shocking to see such a free flow of cash, even though it was just a simple 1,000 won bill. Of course, money isnt just given to children. Cash gifting for adults also occurs during holidays and events, although its unlikely theyll get money for bowing during the New Year. More often than not, cash is distributed at weddings, funerals and childrens birthday parties, particularly
Balance of
The
Bujo
In Korea, the act of gifting cash is an expected tradition at major events, such as weddings, funerals, birthdays and holidays. Bujo, the Korean term for the cultural act, goes beyond the sense of congratulatory generosity, and is a meaningful act symbolizing respect, compassion and community.
As a rule of thumb, you should never go empty-handed when visiting someones home, especially if this home belongs to a Korean family. This rule my mother taught me about Korean culture reveals the essence of their spirit of generosity and community. Gift giving, and in particular, the giving of cash, or Bujo in Korean, is an essential part of Korean culture. The act of gift giving shows humility, respect, friendship and compassion all at the same time (although you wouldnt gift cash when visiting someones home, you would most likely take a basket of fruit or something non-monetary). But the depth and true meaning of Bujo wasnt something I fully understood until I experienced it at my grandfathers funeral. Growing up, I remember a handful of similar
instances where I was given a couple bills of cold hard cash after tagging along with my parents to visit their Korean friends. For some reason, the adults felt the need to hand out cash to kids they had just met or hadnt seen in a while. Often times, after the usual greetings of Annyeong haseyo, or hello, an adult would comment on my looks, how much Id grown up and follow it up with yongdon (allowance), and tell me to go buy something good to eat. I dont recall the first time I was handed cash from a stranger, but I remembered it was polite to refuse when someone handed you cash. So, being the polite child I was, I attempted to give the cash back, thanking them but saying I couldnt possibly accept the money although the act was done with no real heart behind it.
www.korea.net | 47
the celebration of a childs first birthday. While gifting checks or cash might be a foreign idea, weddings are probably more understandable, and I myself have handed out checks to help celebrate my friends nuptials although more often than not, I was running around Bed Bath & Beyond finding items on their registry. A word about Korean weddings: the bride and groom dont make registries and traditionally dont have wedding parties thrown by the maid of honor or best man. The responsibility of the ceremony is shouldered by the bride and groom (and their families) alone, and the expected gift is usually money. Envelopes are made available at chapels, churches or wedding halls, so guests may write a congratulatory message and insert their cash. An average person might shell out 50,000 won, but depending on how well you know the person it might vary. Ive even heard of some affluent families giving 1,000,000 won, but thats an anomaly and not expected or recommended. For Koreans, the incoming cash flow during weddings is especially beneficial as it helps the families pay for the wedding or supplement the newlyweds housing payments. This is why guests happily contribute to the couples future. For some reason, it always seemed to me that giving cash instead of a wrapped gift was like taking the easy way out. Theres not as much thought put into cash. But this is not the sentiment people have in Korea, and most people say they prefer to receive cash instead of a present they dont really want or need. They will, however, admit to the fact that cash is easier than rummaging around the mall or department store trying to find the right gift. Additionally, because Koreans are communal by nature, they see the act of gifting money as a way to help their neighbors. Events like weddings, funerals and birthday parties are expensive, and often involve meals for everyone in attendance. For the giver, its just a way for them to help out. The idea behind it is they bring enough to cover their end of the meal, to help reduce the financial burden to the hosting family. When my grandfather passed away in the late spring of 2009, I was surprised to see a basket at the entrance of the chapel where we were holding the memorial service. My mother explained the basket had been placed there so those who were coming to the service could have a place to put their envelopes of cash. She had even asked two of my cousins to
stand at the entrance to guard the money and act as ushers. I thought, surely, it was a waste of their time and effort because, after all, who gives money at a funeral? But my mother said in Korea it was traditional for people to gift money to the family. I was a little hesitant because the service and burial were being held in Richmond, British Columbia, Canada, but figured some people might want to contribute a little money because my grandfather was Korean. And I assumed no one would be dropping by leaving dishes of casseroles at our house. So I accepted that cash giving at funerals as the equivalent of the tuna casserole neighbors give to the family who has lost a loved one. Sure enough, as people came, the basket was soon filled with envelopes containing cash. Stranger than that, half of those who attended hadnt even known my grandfather, but were there to support the grieving family, cash in hand. The money so generously given by friends was used the pay for the meal at a Korean restaurant nearby that we had rented out. In Korea, its tradition for the family of the deceased to treat all visitors to a meal at the end of a funeral. Back in the day, the mourning family prepared the entire meal themselves, but through the progression of time and convenience, meals are now often held at restaurants. Truly, gathering together to share a large meal with a community of support after the funeral was uplifting during such a tragic time. It was a chance to recharge from the emotionally draining period and realize their concern and commitment to support. The encouragement and sense of camaraderie was overwhelming, and I understood the tradition of people coming together, opening their wallets to help laugh and cry at lifes lessons. by Ana
Bak | illustrations by Jo Seung-yeon | photograph by Kim Nam-heon
PROFILE After living abroad her whole life, Ana Bak is back in Korea reconnecting with her roots. She is a freelance writer and editor, and enjoys learning about Korean culture. Ana is an avid TCU Horned Frogs fan and can be reached at bak.tcu@gmail.com.
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korean heritage
Cheoyongmu This Korean traditional court dance was performed in order to dispel evil spirits and promote good fortune. Based on the legend of Cheoyong, a son of the dragon king, the dance is performed by five men clad in white, blue, black, red and yellow. Cheoyongmu embodies the philosophy of Confucianism, in particular the Theory of Five Elements. The dance was inscribed on UNESCOs Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2009, and the Cheoyong Culture Festival will be held in Ulsan, southern Korea, from Oct 6 to 9.
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People & Culture

ElEmEnts of Han stylE

CELEBRATING THE ANCIENT TRIPITAKA KOREANA

HEAD TO BUSANS FILM FESTIVAL

DISCOVERING KOREAS CULTURE

The BeauTy of han

6 elements of han style

04 | korea | october 2011

06 | korea | october 2011

learn more about hanji Cho soo-jung hanji art gallery

08 | korea | october 2011

10 | korea | october 2011

Topic Images (top right)

pen & brush

Poetry and Philosophy in Wood

12 | korea | october 2011

14 | korea | october 2011

16 | korea | october 2011

Yonhap News Agency

Heo Juns Medical Text

18 | korea | october 2011

Heo Jun Museum; Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea (opposite)

Meet Your Monger

Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market

Noryangjin Station, Subway Line 1

Noryangjin Station, Subway Line 9

20 | korea | october 2011

1,000 Years of Knowledge

22 | korea | october 2011

How To GeT THere

The first version of the Chojo Daejanggyeong is completed

reproduction of the Tripitaka Koreana is started

The entire work is moved from Ganghwado island to Haeinsa Temple

Janggyeong Panjeon Hall is listed as a uneSCo world Heritage Site

Tripitaka Koreana is added to the uneSCo memory of the world register

a vegetarian temple food dish

Tripitaka millennial Hall

24 | korea | october 2011

Busan Films for Fall

Busan International Film Festival; Topic Images (opposite)

A hot bowl of kalguksu noodles.

26 | korea | october 2011

Expats Hit Korean Airwaves

28 | korea | october 2011

Yonhap News Agency

Kenyan Edna Kiplagat (Womens marathon: Gold)

Brazilian Fabiana Murer (Pole vault: Gold)

Australian Sally Pearson (100m hurdles: Gold)

Grenadian Kirani James (400m: Gold)

HigH Drama in Daegu

Daegu IAAF World Championships (left, right); Yonhap News Agency

CovEr CUrSE Bolt was not the only

MEDAlS StAnDinGS (toP 10)

Daegu IAAF World Championships

PUttinG DAEGU on tHE MAP The

WorlD CHAMPionSHiPS AttEnDAnCE

UNWTO Comes to Korea

36 | korea | october 2011

United Nations World Tourism Organization

New GaiNs iN CeNtral asia

38 | korea | october 2011

Yonhap News Agency

40 | korea | october 2011