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3
Contents
Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill ................102
Introduction 4
CONTENTS
Skndagma and around ..................112
Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki............117
Suburban Athens............................123
Ideas 9 Attica ............................................133
Further Afield ................................140
The big six ......................................10
Acropolis ..........................................12
Classical Athens ..............................14
Roman Athens..................................16
Accommodation 153
Byzantine Athens..............................18 Hotels ............................................155
National Archeological Museum ......20 Hostels ..........................................162
Cultural museums ............................22 Campsites ......................................162
Modern Athens ................................24
Hills and views ................................26
Green Athens....................................28 Essentials 163
Restaurants and tavernas ................30
Cafés and bars ................................32 Arrival ............................................165
Music and entertainment..................34 City transport ................................166
Nightlife ..........................................36 Information ....................................168
Markets and shopping......................38 Directory ........................................169
Orthodox Athens ..............................40
Athens on foot..................................42
Seaside Athens and Language 173
island escapes ..............................44 Basics ............................................175
Out of Athens ..................................46 Menu reader ..................................180
Athens
INTRODUCTION
When to visit
Athens is at its most agreeable outside the peak period of early July to the
end of August, when soaring temperatures (sometimes over
40°C), plus crowds of foreigners and locals alike, can be
overpowering. Perhaps the best months to visit are May to
early June, September and October – temperatures are
pleasant (20°C and upwards), and visitors fewer. In
April you can also see lovely displays of spring flowers
on the surrounding mountains. The winter months can
be very cold, and February is often rainy.
Contents Introduction
5
쒀 Byzantine
INTRODUCTION
Mosaic
Contents Introduction
6
쑽 Neoclassical
and clubs in
the country.
Eating out is
INTRODUCTION
great, with
statue
establishments
ranging from
lively tavernas
to the finest
gourmet
restaurants. In
summer
much of the
action takes
place out-
doors, com-
plemented by
open-air
films, concerts
and classical
drama.The
extraordinari-
ly diverse
shopping
scene ranges
from colour-
ful bazaars and lively street system – particularly the
markets to chic shopping newly expanded metro –
malls filled with the latest you’ll have no difficulty
designer goods. And with a getting around.
good-value public transport
쑽 Kolonáki
Contents Introduction
7
ATHENS AT A GLANCE
INTRODUCTION
The Acropolis
쒀 National
쑽
Pláka Street
The National Archeological
Museum
By far the most important mus-
eum in Athens, the National
Archeological Museum houses the
world’s greatest collection of
Cycladic, Minoan, Mycenaean and
Classical Greek art.
Kolonáki
For fashionable shopping,
Kolonáki is the city’s most chic
central district. Should you tire of Pláka
hunting for the latest designer The largely pedestrianized area of
gear, you’ll find some great pave- Pláka, with its narrow lanes and
ment cafés and restaurants – or stepped alleys climbing towards
come here at night for the bars the Acropolis, is perhaps the most
and buzzing live music venues. attractive part of Athens. It’s
쑽
Herodes Atticus Theatre
Contents Introduction
8
쑽
Delphi
INTRODUCTION
touristy, but full of atmosphere and nities for eating, drinking and
the city’s best for idle wandering. above all shopping – from flea mar-
kets to upmarket designer shops.
Cape Soúnio Often busy and noisy, you’ll still
Cape Soúnio’s dramatic setting find the occasional quiet oasis in
overlooking the Aegean has made it the high-rise urban surroundings.
a landmark for centuries to boats
sailing between Pireás and the Delphi
islands. Its tremendous views and Set amongst the massive crags of
evocative Temple of Poseidon cer- Mount Parnassós, Delphi is the
tainly impressed Byron – who carved site of the most important oracle in
his name on one of the pillars. ancient Greece. Today, its awe-
inspiring ruins and spectacular
Monastiráki setting make it one of the most
While less touristy than Pláka, memorable excursions from
Monastiráki still has great opportu- Athens.
쑽
Monastiráki
Contents Introduction
Ideas
Contents Ideas
10
The big six
Athens is still
defined above all by
the brief period of
glory it enjoyed in
the fifth century BC
– the Golden Age of
Classical Athens.
The signature image
of the city, and an
absolute must-see, is the National Archeological
rocky hill of the Acropolis, Museum
The gold Mask of Agamemnon from
topped by the Parthenon. Mycenae is the biggest crowd-puller in
Athens’ premier museum.
Smaller, lesser-known
쑺 P.96 쑺 THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL
ancient sites are scattered MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쒀
throughout the city centre.
The city’s Archeological
Museum, too, is one of the
world’s greatest, with
treasures not just from
Athens but from all the
cultures of ancient Greece.
The modern city is not
always beautiful, but it is
enjoyable, with its buzzing
outdoor restaurants and
cafés, great nightlife, and
easy access to a
spectacular coastline.
Lykavitós Hill
Climb Lykavitós Hill – or take the funicu-
lar – for spectacular views of the city,
including the Acropolis.
쑺 P.104 쑺 KOLONÁKI AND
LYKAVITÓS HILL 쒀
Contents Ideas
11
Temple of Poseidon
Dominating Cape Sounío, the Temple of
Poseidon commands magnificent views of
the seas and islands around Athens.
쑺 P.133 쑺 ATTICA 쑽
Street life
In summer, life in Athens moves on to the
streets, terraces and roof gardens. Dining or
drinking al fresco, with the Acropolis as back-
drop, can be an unforgettable experience.
쑺 P.85 쑺 THISSÍO, GÁZI ÁNO PETRÁLONA 쒀
Contents Ideas
12
Acropolis
Exploring the
Acropolis and its
surrounds can easily
absorb an entire
day. While the
Parthenon is the
most imposing of
the remains atop the
steep-sided hill, it’s far
from the only one; the
Acropolis has an
extraordinary concentration
of superlative Classical
architecture, all of it dating
from just a few decades at
the height of ancient
Athenian democracy. The
Acropolis Museum houses
many of the treasures from
the site and hopes one day
The Erectheion
to complete its collection The most sacred of the ancient temples
with the returned and a superb example of Ionic architec-
ture, the Erectheion’s south porch is sup-
Parthenon Marbles. ported by six larger-than-life maidens –
the Caryatids.
쑺 P.56 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쒀
Contents Ideas
13
The Propylaia
The imposing entrance to the Acropolis now
as in Classical times, the Propylaia were
considered by ancient Athenians to be their
most prestigious monument.
쑺 P.53 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쒀
Acropolis Museum
Containing almost all the treasures
removed from the site since the 1830s, the
museum includes fine sculptures that once
adorned the Acropolis buildings, such as
the Kritias Boy pictured here.
쑺 P.57 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쑺
Contents Ideas
14
In the fifth century
Classical Athens
BC, the city-state of
Athens suddenly
found itself secure
and wealthy, having
defeated the
Persians and risen
to dominate their
mainland rivals.
They celebrated
their success by a
radical experiment
with democracy,
and with a flourishing of
art, architecture,
literature and philosophy
whose influences imbue
Western culture to this day.
The physical remains of the
Classical Golden Age are
still to be seen everywhere
in Athens, and with the
city’s reconstruction more
is emerging almost daily.
Kerameikos
A tranquil, little-visited site that incorpo-
rates the cemetery of ancient Athens as
well as fragments of the city walls, gates
and the roads that led to them.
쑺 P.83 쑺 THISSÍO, GÁZI
& ÁNO PETRÁLONA 쒀
Contents Ideas
15
Stoa of Attalos
The reconstruction of the Stoa of Attalos,
part of the ancient Athenian marketplace,
shows how Classical Athens might have
looked in its heyday, and houses the Theatre of Dionysos
Museum of the Agora. The stunning theatre where the
쑺 P.60 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쑽 masterpieces of Classical drama were
first performed.
쑺 P.57 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쒀
Monument of Lysikratos
In a quiet corner of Pláka, this is a lone sur-
vivor of what was once a long line of simi-
lar monuments celebrating victory in
ancient drama contests.
쑺 P.64 쑺 PLÁKA 쑽
Contents Ideas
16
The Romans
Roman Athens
controlled Athens for
some eight hundred
years, but they left
relatively few
monuments. On the
whole they
respected the
artistic and
architectural
heritage of Classical
Athens, while the
city itself became
something of a backwater
of the Empire. There were,
however, two great
benefactors in particular
whose legacy has survived:
the Emperor Hadrian and
Herodes Atticus, a Hadrian’s Library
wealthy Roman senator. You can only admire it from the other side
of a fence, but the scale of the Emperor’s
structure is truly impressive.
쑺 P.74 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쑽
Contents Ideas
17
Hadrian’s Arch
Erected by Hadrian to mark the division
between the ancient Greek city and the The Areopagus
modern Roman one, this imposing arch This low, rocky hill below the Acropolis has
rises to a height of eighteen metres. rich historical significance: in ancient times
it was the site of the Council of Nobles and
쑺 P.115 쑺 SMNDAGMA & AROUND 쑽
the Judicial Court, and later St Paul
preached here, setting in train the conver-
sion of Athens to Christianity.
쑺 P.59 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쒀
Contents Ideas
18
When the Roman
Byzantine Athens
empire split, Athens
came under the
control of
Byzantium
(Constantinople) and
the Byzantine
empire. The schools
of philosophy were
closed, and many of
the city’s “pagan”
temples converted
to churches. The
legacy of the early
Christians is a series of
beautiful ancient
monasteries, as well as
museums and wonderful
frescoes and icons.
Kapnikaréa
The eleventh-century church of
Kapnikaréa, right in the heart of Athens,
makes for an extraordinary contrast to the
packed shopping streets surrounding it.
쑺 P.75 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쒀
Contents Ideas
19
Byzantine and Christian
Museum
The richness of many of the icons on dis-
play is typical of the Byzantine era’s artistic
styles.
쑺 P.106 쑺 KOLONÁKI AND LYKAVITÓS 쑺
Christ Pantokrator
Christ sits in majesty at the heart of the
world-famous cycle of mosaics in Dhafní
Monastery.
쑺 P.125 쑺 SUBURBAN ATHENS 쑽
Dhafní Monastery
The fortress-like exterior of the Monastery of
Dhafní, on the western fringes of Athens,
gives little clue of the glories within.
쑺 P.123 쑺 SUBURBAN ATHENS 쑽
Contents Ideas
20
Athens’ National
National Archeological Museum
Archeological
Museum is among
the world’s greatest
museums, with an
unrivalled collection
of ancient Greek
art. It spans every
era from prehistoric
and the
development of
Mycenaean and
Minoan culture,
through Classical
Greece and on to
Roman and early The museum building
Byzantine times. The imposing Neoclassical building hous-
Extensive renovation ing the Museum occupies an entire block,
set back from the street amid jungly gar-
for the 2004 dens.
Olympics has 쑺 P.96 쑺 THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL
MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쒀
provided a setting to
match the contents.
Highlights are the
finds from graves at
Mycenae, and from the
excavations of Akrotíri on
the island of Thíra
(Santorini).
Contents Ideas
21
Poseidon
In this graceful bronze statue from the mid-
fifth century BC, Poseidon stands poised in
perfect balance as he prepares to hurl his
(missing) trident.
쑺 P.98 쑺 THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL
MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쑽
Frescoes
The Archeological Museum holds an impor-
tant collection of frescoes; this example
from Akrotíri depicts two boys boxing, its
style clearly influenced by Minoan Crete.
쑺 P.96 쑺 THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL
MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쒀
Contents Ideas
22
The city’s lesser-
Cultural museums
known museums
should not be
overlooked. Among
the best are the
Benáki and
Kanellópoulos
museums, each
housing magnificent
private collections
that cover every age
of Greek art and
history from the
prehistoric era to
the nineteenth-century
independence struggle.
Others are more specialist:
for example, the
Goulandhrís Museum of Kanellopoulou Museum
Right under the Acropolis at the top of
Cycladic Art concentrates Pláka, the Kanellopoulou Museum fills a
on artefacts predating the former private home with a treasure trove
of fine art.
Classical era, superbly 쑺 P.65 쑺 PLÁKA 쒀
displayed, while the
Museum of Greek Folk
Art features ceramics,
jewellery, weaving and
other crafts.
Contents Ideas
23
Benáki Museum
Occupying a graceful nineteenth-century
mansion, the Benáki collection is of
exceptional variety and quality.
쑺 P.105 쑺 KOLONÁKI &
LYKAVITÓS HILL 쑽
Goulandhrís Museum of
Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art
This small collection is extremely well pre-
sented, and contains fine examples of
Cycladic art.
쑺 P.105 쑺 KOLONÁKI &
LYKAVITÓS HILL 쒀
Contents Ideas
24
Plans for a city of
Modern Athens
broad boulevards,
drawn up in the
nineteenth century
when Athens
became capital after
Independence,
didn’t survive long.
After World War II,
instead, rapid
growth saw the city
emerge as a vibrant,
stimulating and exciting
mix of East and West,
urban and rural, where
chickens roost next to
Internet cafés, and eastern-
style bazaars vie for space
with chic outlets of Armani
and Zara.
The metro
The development of new metro lines has
helped transform the city centre, cutting
traffic and pollution and providing fast,
efficient and easy-to-use transport.
쑺 P.166 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쒀
Contents Ideas
25
Platía Omonías
A great central meeting point; its perimeter
is lined with kiosks selling everything from
papers and lottery tickets to watch-straps.
쑺 P.88 쑺 PLATÍA OMONÍAS & AROUND 쑺
Contents Ideas
26
Athens is dotted
Hills and views
with hills and
surrounded by
mountains, almost
all of which offer
great views and the
opportunity to
escape the clamour
of the city for a
while. Inevitably, the
Acropolis seems to
find its way into
every photo, but there are
fine cityscapes to be
enjoyed in other directions
too. The Acropolis itself
offers good views of the
city, while Lykavitós is the
other classic viewpoint –
with the added advantage
of a walk through elegant
Kolonáki and a funicular to
get you to the top. On the
fringes of the city, the
mountains of Imittós and
Párnitha are surprisingly
rugged – making them
excellent hiking territory.
The Acropolis
Great views as you look northeast from the
Acropolis, with Pláka below, Skndagma and
the city centre behind, and Lykavitós in the
background.
쑺 P.51 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쒀
Contents Ideas
27
Lykavitós
From the top, Athens is laid out before you
in all directions – on a clear day you can
see as far as the mountains of the
Peloponnese.
쑺 P.104 쑺 KOLONÁKI AND LYKAVITÓS HILL쑽
The Pnyx
The remains of the ancient Athenian assem-
얏
bly stand at the summit of the Hill of the
Filopáppou Pnyx, looking out over Pireás to the sea.
Filopáppou hill, romantically known in antiq-
uity as the Hill of the Muses, is topped by a 쑺 P.82 쑺 THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
grandiose monument to the Roman senator EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쑽
after whom it is named.
쑺 P.82 쑺 THISSÍO, GÁZI &
ÁNO PETRÁLONA 쒀
Contents Ideas
28
At first sight Athens
Green Athens
is not a green city,
but it has its
moments. The
citizens decorate
their balconies with
potted plants and
shrubs, while in the
older quarters
bougainvillea
covers many
houses. In spring, flowers
try to blossom everywhere
– archeological sites and
the steeper slopes of the
hills are ideal breeding
grounds. At the very heart
of the city, the National
Gardens offer almost
tropical luxuriance, while
as soon as you leave the Égina
The island of Égina, less than an hour by
city limits, nature reasserts hydrofoil from Athens, is famed for its
itself immediately, whether many green orchards bearing pistachios.
쑺 P.147 쑺 FURTHER AFIELD 쒀
in the mountains, the
coast or the nearby
islands.
Contents Ideas
29
Ruins in spring
Even in the heart of Athens, in springtime
flowers burst through and adorn the many
ancient remains.
쑺 P.51 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쑽
Lykavitós
The lower slopes of Lykavitós and many of
the city’s other hills are covered in pine
trees and succulents.
쑺 P.104 쑺 KOLONÁKI & LYKAVITÓS HILL 쑽
Mount Párnitha
Less than an hour by bus from the city cen-
tre, Mount Párnitha is remarkably wild, with
a fabulous variety of alpine flowers in
spring.
쑺 P.137 쑺 ATTICA 쑽
Contents Ideas
30
Athens has a huge
Restaurants and tavernas
variety of restaurants
and tavernas. The
atmosphere is
invariably relaxed,
though the city does
have its share of
fancy places. There’s
virtually every type
of cuisine too, but
the vast majority of
places, and the ones
most frequented by
locals, remain no-
frills tavernas. Most
menus are simple,
but you can rely on
good-quality, fresh
ingredients: if you’re
not sure about the menu,
you can often go into the Zidhoron
kitchen and see what’s on In the heart of trendy Psyrrí, Zidhoron is a
modern take on a traditional
offer. A typically Greek way mezedhopolío.
to eat is to order a selection 쑺 P.79 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쒀
of small dishes –
mezédhes – to share. Koukáki
An excellent eating locale just outside the
Locals generally eat late: centre.
2–3.30pm for lunch, 쑺 P121 쑺 METS, PANGRÁTI
& KOUKÁKI, 쑽
9–11pm for dinner. Away
from the touristy areas, you
may find restaurants
deserted if you go much
earlier than this.
Contents Ideas
31
Pláka
Most Athens restaurants have a terrace,
courtyard or stretch of pavement on which
tables are set up outside in summer. The
pedestrian streets of Pláka provide a partic-
ularly atmospheric setting.
쑺 P.68 쑺 PLÁKA 쑽
Taverna Damingos
A basement taverna that’s still going strong
into its third century.
쑺 P.68 쑺 PLÁKA 쒀
Taverna music
Evening performances of traditional Greek
music are common, and while often rather
touristy they are occasionally great.
쑺 P.78 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쑽
Áno Petrálona
Away from the touristy central districts,
neighbourhoods such as Áno Petrálona gen-
erally offer more authentic menus and a
more local atmosphere.
쑺 P.85 쑺 THISSÍO, GÁZI &
ÁNO PETRÁLONA 쒀
Contents Ideas
32
There seems to be a
Cafés and bars
café on every corner
in Athens, most of
which open from
mid-morning till late
in the evening.
They’re an essential
part of the social
fabric of the city,
always full of groups
of people chatting
(on their mobiles if
not to each other), smoking
and drinking. Join them
over a Greek coffee or the
quintessential summer
drink, a frappé: iced
instant coffee, whipped to
a froth. If you fancy a cold
beer, you can have that in
a café too – many
effectively become bars in
the evening, when they
turn down the lights and
turn up the music. Places
that describe themselves
as bars, with only a few
exceptions, are much
fancier and more
Brettos
expensive. Backlit bottles decorate Brettos, a peren-
nial Pláka favourite that’s a liquor store
by day and bar at night.
쑺 P.67 쑺 PLÁKA 쒀
Contents Ideas
33
Psyrrí
By night, Psyrrí buzzes with some of the
city’s trendiest bars and restaurants, while
by day it’s a relaxing place for a coffee.
쑺 P.79 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쑽
Exárhia
An alternative feel prevails at the cafés
and bars in this bohemian district.
쑺 P.100 쑺 THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM,
EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쑽
Platía Filomoússou Eterías
Competing cafés and restaurants in the
heart of Pláka.
쑺 P.67 쑺 PLÁKA 쒀
Skholarhio
This traditional ouzerí in Pláka serves excel-
lent mezédhes.
쑺 P.69 쑺 PLÁKA 쑽
Contents Ideas
34
To see the best live
Music and entertainment Mégaro Mousikís
traditional Greek The city’s major concert hall, the Mégaro
Mousikís, hosts prestigious performances
music, perhaps all year-round.
surprisingly you 쑺 P.169 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쑽
Contents Ideas
35
Street music
The pedestrianization of much of the centre
has allowed street performers and traders
to thrive; the approach to the Acropolis is
particularly good for seeing buskers.
쑺 P.53 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쒀
Football
There are three major football clubs in Athens:
Panathinaikós, Olympiakós and AEK; the
atmosphere on match days is intense.
쑺 P.170 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쑺
Lykavitós Theatre
The theatre perched atop Lykavitós is a
spectacular venue. Many of the city’s major
rock events are staged here.
쑺 P.105 쑺 KOLONÁKI & LYKAVITÓS HILL 쑽
Contents Ideas
36
Nightlife
Clubs and dance
bars are hugely
popular in Athens,
and often extremely
sophisticated.
Downtown, the
hottest action is in
the Psyrrí and Gázi areas,
but in summer many close
down and decamp to a
string of hangar-like places
on the coastal strip from Kolonáki
Pireás to Várkiza. Expect Kolonáki has a fair spread of clubs, which
tend to be generally more upmarket than
the unexpected: most play those in Psyrrí or Gázi.
recent hits, but don’t be 쑺 P.111 쑺 KOLONÁKI & LYKAVITÓS HILL 쒀
Bee Bar
Typically cool designer bar in Psyrrí, a
great place to meet up at the beginning of
the evening, or to chill out in later.
쑺 P.79 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSRRÍ 쒀
Contents Ideas
37
Beach clubs
Beachside clubs and bars open up in sum-
mer to cater to the clubbers seeking the
cooler climes of the coast.
쑺 P.132 쑺 SUBURBAN ATHENS 쑽
Live bands
Clubbing The local rock scene is small but interest-
Expect a hefty bill if you join the clubbing ing – you can expect anything from rock to
crowd, but at least the admission price usu- reggae to blues.
ally includes your first drink.
쑺 P101 쑺 THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM,
쑺 P.87 쑺 THISSÍO, GÁZI & EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쒀
ÁNO PETRÁLONA 쑽
Contents Ideas
38
Shopping in Athens
Markets and shopping Street markets
Street markets held across the city are
is decidedly great places to stock up on picnic fare
schizophrenic. On and get a taste of local Athens.
the one hand, the 쑺 P.170 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쑽
bazaar area is an
extraordinary jumble
of little specialist
shops and stalls,
while almost every
neighbourhood still
hosts a weekly
street market. On
the other, the
upmarket shopping
areas of the city
centre, and the
malls and fashion
emporia of the ritzier
suburbs, are as glossy and
expensive as any in Europe.
The food halls of the central
market and the picturesque
flower market nearby are
particularly worthwhile, while
if you’re into trawling through
junk, don’t miss the Sunday
morning flea markets in
Monastiráki and Pireás.
Contents Ideas
39
Contents Ideas
40
Greece remains a
Orthodox Athens
deeply traditional
and for the most
part culturally
homogeneous
society, and over
ninety-five percent
of the population
belongs to the
Greek Orthodox
Church. For all its
surface modernity,
Athens is no
exception. The Orthodox
church plays a significant
part in most people’s lives:
ceremonies like baptisms,
weddings and funerals are
very important, and the
festivals of the church
calendar – Easter above all
– are celebrated with
gusto. Name days –
celebrating the saint after
whom you are named –
are more significant than
birthdays.
Icon shops
Icons, from cheap reproductions aimed at
the tourist market to expensive and exqui-
site copies are sold everywhere: some of
the best are found in the religious artefact
shops around Platía Mitrópoleos.
쑺 P.76 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쒀
Contents Ideas
41
Historic icons
When you’ve had your fill of browsing the
icon shops, check out their historic predeces-
sors at the Byzantine and Christian museum.
쑺 P.106 쑺 KOLONÁKI AND
LYKAVITÓS HILL 쑽
Platía Mitrópoleos
The square itself is more of a draw than the
cathedral here, but there has been a church
on this site for centuries
쑺 P.75 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쒀
Baptism ceremonies
Events like baptisms bring out a vast,
extended family – all of whom can expect
lavish hospitality.
쑺 P.70 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쑽
Contents Ideas
42
Central Athens is
Athens on foot Apostólou Pávlou
Modern sculpture adorns the pedestrian-
compact enough to ized street that overlooks the Agora and
be able to walk Acropolis.
almost anywhere. 쑺 P.80 쑺 THISSÍO, GÁZI
& ÁNO PETRÁLONA 쑽
One of the lasting
legacies of the run
up to 2004 Olympics
is undoubtedly be
the network of
pedestrian streets
that transformed the
centre of town.
Quite apart from the
pleasure of being able to
witness the ancient sites
from a traffic-free
environment,
pedestrianization, together
with the extension of the
metro and other public
transport initiatives have
started to have an effect on
Athens’ critical pollution Odhós Ermoú
problems. Ermoú is a wonderfully traffic-free route
from Skndagma down the Monastiráki.
쑺 P.70 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쑽
Contents Ideas
43
Kolonáki
The upper reaches of Kolonáki climb
steeply towards Lykavitós hill – it’s easiest
to take the funicular up and walk down.
쑺 P.102 쑺 KOLONÁKI
& LYKAVITÓS HILL 쑽
Odhós Adhrianoú
From Thissío metro all the way through
Pláka, Adhrianoú is lined with bustling cafés
and shops.
쑺 P.75 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쒀
Dhionysíou Areopayítou
A relaxed, traffic-free street on the south
side of the Acropolis, passing the Herodes
Atticus Theatre.
쑺 P.53 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쑽
Contents Ideas
44
Athens is
Seaside Athens and island escapes
surrounded by the
sea, and the Greek
nation has a
seafaring tradition
going back to
Classical times.
There are some
great beaches in
easy reach, though
on summer
weekends they’re
packed to capacity.
At many of the best
you pay for entry, Náfplio
allowing you to use The beautiful old town of Náfplio, with its
picturesque castles, attracts plenty of
a range of facilities weekending Athenians, ensuring lively
nightlife to go with the sights.
from loungers to
쑺 P.146 쑺 FURTHER AFIELD 쒀
watersports. More
adventurously, from
the port of Pireás
you can get a ferry
to one of a number
of nearby islands,
escaping in just a
couple of hours (half
that if you take a
hydrofoil) to an entirely
different world.
Beach at Vouliagméni
Vouliagméni has some of the most attrac-
tive and exclusive beaches on the devel-
oped strip south of the city.
쑺 P128 쑺 SUBURBAN ATHENS 쒀
Contents Ideas
45
Contents Ideas
46
Attica, the province
Out of Athens
surrounding Athens,
has numerous
attractions beyond
the obvious ones
offered by its
beaches: above all,
the important
outposts of Classical
Athens, made all the
more appealing now
by their rural isolation.
Further out, some of the
great sites, including
Delphi and Mycenae, are
an easy day-trip. The
mountains, with their
traditional villages, walking Mycenae
The discovery of Mycenae in the late
and even skiing nineteenth century was a seminal event in
opportunities, are yet Greek archeology, proving that Homer and
the stories of ancient, pre-Classical civi-
another alternative. lizations were not mere myth.
쑺 P.147 쑺 FURTHER AFIELD 쒀
Rhamnous
Ancient Rhamnous is little visited, but the
site enjoys a spectacular location over-
looking the island of Évvia.
쑺 P.136 쑺 ATTICA 쒀
Contents Ideas
47
Delphi
Delphi, home of the Delphic Oracle, was
thought by the ancient Greeks to be the
centre of the earth. It’s still among the most
impressive of all ancient sites.
쑺 P.141 쑺 FURTHER AFIELD 쒀
Eleusis
The Sanctuary of Demeter at Eleusis –
accessible by city bus from Athens – was
one of the most important in the ancient
world.
쑺 P.137 쑺 ATTICA 쑽
Temple of Poseidon
Cape Soúnio and the beautiful temple that
stands at its tip have long been a landmark
for sailors approaching Athens.
쑺 P.133 쑺 ATTICA 쒀
Mount Parnitha
Looking out from the ancient fortress of
Phyle, just an hour from the centre of
Athens, the unspoilt nature of Mount
Parnitha is readily apparent.
쑺 P137 쑺 ATTICA 쑽
Contents Ideas
Contents Ideas
Places
Contents Places
Places
Contents Places
51
The Acropolis
The rock of the Acropolis, crowned by the dramatic
ruins of the Parthenon, is one of the archetypal images
Contents Places
52
ER RI
SAR
LOU
0 150 m M Áyii
O Y IG
O Asómati
KA
U NIKA
OU
LEOKORIOU
LEPENIOTOU
OU
PO
LE
UL
PE
TE
OYIGOU
Thissio M
OP
PLATIA
IVIS
NI
OS
AK
OU
THISSIOU
OT
N
LO
IRA
YO
OU
U
KT
The Acropolis PLACES
STOLI
N AVA R H O U A P O
FI
A
V
KL
AM
SI Athenaeum
KHRISTOKOPIDHOU
LI
ESOPO
Maria Callas
ID
N S ER AV L I T O N
IL
IVIS
HO
IOU M
AD
EO FE ISS
ASTIN G O S
TH O
LOU
N
DH
HR
U
S RA U
IA
S
NO
PAV
AKA
U
MAN
TOS
M O N AUS T I R Á K I
IP P O
U F IL
LOU
Hephaisteion Stoa of AY IO U
Zeus T O PLATIA
E T AVISSYNIAS
KY N OU
STO
AN
IF
Entrance
RM
ES
Ayía
AD
NO
TO
APO
HR
Marina
U
Monastiráki
IA
Voulefterio
N
OTRYNEON Flea Market
OU
Ancient IFE
FIGALI AS Tholos STO
S
Agora U
Y KO
AD
PN Monument of Odeion
HR
Eponymous of Agrippa Stoa
IA
of Attalos
N
ITH
IOU LIO U SM Heroes
OU
Palace (Agora KLA Hadrian's
& Stoas Museum) DHOU Library
DH EYI
E OS
IO N
N
Y
Áyii PI AR
DH
LOU
IT SIO Entrance KI
EX
OU U
Apóstoli LI
IP
S N
PO
TAXIA R H O
PAV
PO
U
LY
EP
GN Fethiye
AM
IN
Areopagus Mosque
O
N
ON
LOU
TO
RO
Rock
DA
U
OU
SK
Roman
STO
IO
OS
DH
Forum
OU
MI
N
TR
SE
PA
OÖ Tower of
APO
OU
Museum of Greek U
M
SA U U
S
Propylaia Museum
LO
U
Athena TH
Entrance EO
Promachos RI
Beule Gate Erechtheion
AS
Panathenaic
Temple of
PR
Way
YT
Athena Nike
AN
Old Temple
IO
U
N Parthenon
VE
YS
IO
RT
U
OS
OU
AR Stoa of Acropolis
AT O N
EO Museum
GA
Eumenes
Asklepion
N
PA
LL
STR
EO
YI
I
ER TO
YL
T
MS
DI
UE U Panayia
OP
AL
GO
S
Khryssospiliotissa
VE
NO
Theatre of
PR
FR
RI
AT
Dionysos
NO
AN GE LIK
TI
GA
THE
RO
KA Odeion of
EP
Pericles
PA R
RA LL
IM
VE
AR A
ON
TZ IS
EN
U
GA FR
OU
IER PE
DH
DH
AT
LLO
ID
RT
RN I TI RI
HO
I
AT
OF
IO
HI
RY
OU
FE SK PRO
ASY
KA
NA Y MA N
HT
N
RE HO YS V AKH
U
MAKRIYIÁNNI
THR
OU
EO
SO TI KA
IO
EK
FRO S VA
S
NIS LL
YL
U Entrance
NO
GA
KO OT
ER
U I
N
AR
RO
OP
O
LL
EO
SE
VY
PR
PA
I
S
IT
YIT
NO
PLATIA
LAZARETTOU New Acropolis OU
NO
TZ
HE
TR
AM
NI
M
HA
I
OU
N
RT
RALIO
AN
TZ
KA
SE
RA
PA
TA YI
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TOU
TR
AK
A
AK
Akropoli
OU
AR
IS
OU
M
M
OM
TO
RIN
TR
U
MI
PO
Contents Places
53
Approaches to the Acropolis
The sites are ringed by a pedestrian walkway, allowing views of the Parthenon to
be appreciated from almost every angle. You may get a little lost among the jum-
ble of alleys in Pláka, but the rock itself is always there to guide you. The Acropolis
itself can be entered only from the west, where there’s a big coach park at the
with its two great theatres; and They were built from the same
the Ancient Agora. marble as the temple, and in
There are no shops or restau- grandeur and architectural
rants within the Acropolis area, achievement are almost as
although you can buy water and impressive.The ancient
sandwiches, guidebooks, post- Athenians, awed by the fact that
cards and so on from a couple such wealth and craftsmanship
of stands near the Beule Gate. should be used for a purely sec-
There’s also a handy branch of ular building, ranked this as their
Everest right opposite Akropoli most prestigious monument.
metro station (at the corner of Walking through the gateway,
Mariyiánni and Dhiakoú) and which would originally have
plenty of similar places around had great wooden doors, is your
Monastiráki metro. If you want only chance to enter any of the
to sit down, there are cafés and ancient buildings atop the
tavernas nearby in almost every Acropolis.To the left of the cen-
direction: see Pláka (p.68), tral hall (which before Venetian
Monastiráki (p.77), Makriyánni bombardment supported a great
(p.121) and Thissío (p.85). coffered roof, painted blue and
gilded with stars), the
The Propylaia Pinakotheke was an early art
Main Acropolis site. Today, as gallery, exhibiting paintings of
throughout history, the Homeric subjects by
Propylaia are the gateway to the
PROPYLAIA
Acropolis. In Classical times the
road extended along a steep
ramp to this monumental dou-
ble-gatehouse; the modern path
makes a more gradual, zigzag-
ging ascent, passing first through
an arched Roman entrance, the
Beule Gate, added in the third
century AD.
The Propylaia were construct-
ed by Mnesikles from 437–432
BC, and their axis and propor-
tions aligned to balance the
recently completed Parthenon.
Contents Places
54
The development of the Acropolis
The rocky Acropolis was home to one of the earliest known settlements in Greece,
its slopes inhabited by a Neolithic community around 5000 BC. In Mycenaean
times it was fortified with Cyclopean walls (parts of which can still be seen),
enclosing a royal palace and temples to the goddess Athena. By the ninth century
The Acropolis PLACES
BC, the Acropolis had become the heart of Athens, the first Greek city-state,
sheltering its principal public buildings.
Most of the substantial remains seen today date from the fifth century BC or
later, by which time the buildings here were purely religious. The entire area was
reconstructed in 449 BC, following its sacking during the Persian Wars. This vast
project, coinciding with the Golden Age of Classical Athens, was masterminded by
Pericles and carried out under the general direction of the architect and sculptor
Pheidias. It was completed in an incredibly short time: the Parthenon itself took
only ten years to finish.
The monuments survived barely altered for close to a thousand years, until in
the reign of Emperor Justinian the temples were converted to Christian places of
worship. Over the following centuries, the uses became secular as well as reli-
gious, and embellishments increased, gradually obscuring the Classical designs.
Fifteenth-century Italian princes held court in the Propylaia, and the same quar-
ters were later used by the Turks as their commander’s headquarters and as a
powder magazine. The Parthenon underwent similar changes from Greek to
Roman temple, from Byzantine church to Frankish cathedral, before several cen-
turies of use as a Turkish mosque. The Erechtheion, with its graceful female fig-
ures, saw service as a harem.
The Acropolis buildings finally fell victim to war, blown up during successive
attempts by the Venetians to oust the Turks. In 1684 the Turks demolished the Temple
of Athena Nike to gain a brief tactical advantage. Three years later the Venetians, lay-
ing siege to the hill, ignited a Turkish gunpowder magazine in the Parthenon, in the
process blasting off its roof and starting a fire that raged for two days and nights.
The process of stripping down to the bare ruins seen today was completed by
souvenir hunters and the efforts of the first archeologists (see p.56).
The fate of the buildings since has been little happier. After Independence, Greek
archeologists cleared the Turkish village that had developed around the
Parthenon-mosque and did work intended to preserve the structures: in the long
run, though, much of this proved destructive. Meanwhile, earthquakes have dis-
lodged the foundations; generations of feet have slowly worn down surfaces; and,
more recently, sulphur dioxide deposits, caused by vehicle and industrial pollution,
have been turning the marble to dust.
Since a 1975 report predicted the collapse of the Parthenon, visitors have been
barred from its actual precinct, and a major, long-term restoration scheme of the
entire Acropolis embarked upon. With the work completed as a result of the 2004
Olympics, the Acropolis would be free of scaffolding and reconstruction work for
the first time in decades.
Contents Places
55
The procession wound right process was undertaken in the
through the Classical city from run-up to the 2004 Olympic
the gates now in the Games – the temple was tem-
Kerameikos site (p.83) via the porarily dismantled and its pieces
Propylaia to the Parthenon and, taken away for restoration and
Contents Places
56
The Parthenon Marbles
The controversy over the so-called Elgin Marbles has its origin in the activities of
Western looters at the start of the nineteenth century. Chief among these were the
French ambassador Fauvel, gathering antiquities for the Louvre, and the British
ambassador Lord Elgin. Elgin obtained permission from the Turks to erect scaf-
The Acropolis PLACES
folding, excavate and remove stones with inscriptions. He interpreted this con-
cession as a licence to make off with almost all of the bas-reliefs from the
Parthenon’s frieze, most of its pedimental structures and a caryatid from the
Erechtheion – all of which he later sold to the British Museum. There were per-
haps justifications for Elgin’s action at the time – not least the Turks’ tendency to
use Parthenon stones in their limekilns, and possible further ravages of war –
though it was controversial even then.
The Greeks hope that the long-awaited completion of the new Acropolis
Museum (see p.59) will create the perfect opportunity for the British Museum to
bow to pressure and return the marbles. But despite a campaign begun by Greek
actress and culture minister Melina Mercouri in the early 1980s, there is so far lit-
tle sign of that happening.
Contents Places
57
of elegant Ionic porticoes sur- Labelling is fairly basic, so to
vive, the north one with a par- explore in detail a supplemen-
ticularly fine decorated doorway tary guide is useful, though it’s
and frieze of blue Eleusinian also easy to eavesdrop on the
marble. By far the most striking many tour guides passing
Theatre of Dionysos
South slope site. The Theatre of
Dionysos is one of the most
evocative locations in the city.
Here were hosted the first
Contents Places
58
performances of the masterpieces Theatre of Dionysos – is the sec-
of Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides ond-century Roman Herodes
and Aristophanes; it was also the Atticus Theatre (Odeion of
venue in Classical times for the Herodes Atticus).This has been
annual festival of tragic drama, extensively restored for perform-
The Acropolis PLACES
THEATRE OF DIONYSOS
Contents Places
59
The New Acropolis Museum Areopagite”, who became the
Leóforos Dhionysíou Areopayítou, oppo- city’s patron saint.Today, there’s
site the South Slope site. After years little left on the ground, and,
of delays, work on the new historic associations apart, the
Acropolis Museum finally began Areopagus is notable mainly for
Contents Places
The Acropolis PLACES 60
STOA OF ATTALOS
Contents Places
61
Pláka
The largely pedestrianized area of Pláka, with its nar-
row lanes and stepped alleys climbing towards the
PLACES Pláka
Acropolis, is arguably the most attractive part of
Athens, and certainly the most popular with visitors. In
addition to a scattering of ancient sites and various off-
beat and enjoyable museums, it offers glimpses of an
older Athens, refreshingly at odds with the concrete
blocks of the metropolis.
Although surrounded by huge, even though let down somewhat
traffic-choked avenues, Pláka by poor lighting and labelling. Its
itself is a welcome escape, its nar- five floors are devoted to
row streets offering no through- collections of weaving, pottery,
routes for traffic even where you regional costumes and
are allowed to drive. Nineteenth- embroidery, along with other
century houses, some grand, traditional Greek arts and crafts.
some humble, can be seen every- On the mezzanine floor, the
where, their gateways opening carnival tradition of northern
onto verdant courtyards over- Greece and the all-but-vanished
looked by wooden verandahs. shadow-puppet theatre are
With scores of cafés and featured.The second floor
restaurants to fill the time features exhibits of gold and
between museums and sites, and silver jewellery and weaponry,
streets lined with touristy shops, much of it from the era of the
it’s an enjoyable place to wander. War of Independence.The
The main disadvantage is price – highlight, though, is on the first
things are noticeably more floor: the reconstructed room
expensive in Pláka than in much from a house on the island of
of the rest of the city. Lesvós with a series of wonderful
murals by the primitive artist
Museum of Greek Folk Art Theofilos (1868–1934), naïve
Kydhathinéon 17. Tues–Sun 10am–2pm. scenes from Greek folklore and
E2. The Folk Art Museum is one history, especially the
of the most enjoyable in the city, independence struggle.
SHOPS ON ADHRIANOÚ
Contents Places
62 KLADHOU IPPO
of Attalos U AGORAS
ADH
ON
RIA
OS
P I K I L IS RH NO
Fethiye Medresse
A
U
PA N
XI
Mosque Museum of Greek
TA
EPAM PELO
Ancient Agora INON P ID H Popular Musical
DA A
Entrance Instruments
Roman
IOU
P O LY G N O T O U
DHI
Forum 1 OYE
NOU
L
Áyii
VRI
S
US
Apóstoli Tower of IS T
Pláka PLACES
UA
OU
MOUSEOU
the Winds
EO
KO
PA N O S
KL
Turkish
MAR
S
KLEPSYDHRA
ISI
Baths
2 LIS
MN
EOS
THR ASSIV SIO
OUL 4 U
MITROÖU OU
HTH
3
Museum of Greek THOLOU 6 7
EREK
Folk Art: Man & Tools 5
ARETOUSAS
THEORIA PRYT
S A N IO
Kanellopoulou U
Museum P RY T
ANAF IÓTI K A AN
IOU
Ayios
Athena Nikólaos
Promachos
Ragavás
STR
AT O
Agrippa
Monument Sacred
NO
Way Acropolis
Old Temple
S
Propylaia
Entrance
Parthenon Acropolis
Museum
Temple of
Athena Nike
Sanctuary Panayia
of Artemis Khryssospiliotissa
Chalkothek
Asklepion
THRA
SYLL
Odeion of
Theatre of Stoa of Eumenes Perikles
OU
Herodes Atticus
Theatre of
Dionysos
DHION
YSIOU
AREOP
AY I T O
EREKHTHIOU
U Entrance
PROPYLEON
PA RT HE NO
MAKRIYIÁNNI
N
Lalaounis
TIDHO
KALLISPERI
Museum
NO S
New Acropolis
MITSEO
K A R YA
HON
GE
PROMAHOU
L
Contents Places
63
N
LOU
APOLLONO
S
IZE
Eleftheroudakis
VEN
O NOS
APOLL
TH O U
E.
SKOUF
S
AYIA S FILOT HEIS
XE NO FO ND
VOULI
IPITOU OS
KYDH
NIKIS
REO U
NDH
.A
OU
N
AY
A
ID H O U
FI LE LL IN O
PLACES Pláka
D
H
RI
A
Compendium
N
O
NI KO DHI MOU
U
NAVA RH OU
A Russian Church
SS HOU Amorgos of St Nicodemus
AD
E RI D
F L Spyros Y.
IPE
KO
HR
NIK
Aravandinos AHOU OU
DH
LAM
LA
IAN O
Elliniko OS PS Y L RI
OP
SK
RO
IS
Spiti
SO
IHALI
KR
HO
U
Jewish Museum
KE
U
TI
LIO U
Metamorfosis
RO
U EO N
AR
MO
Art & Tradition Children’s TH I N
EPIH A T HA Anglican
HILL ANGE LIK I S H
D
Museum KY Greek Folk Church
S
8
Art Museum
IA
9 M
Study Centre for the ON
AL
N
KH
10 O IS
Art of Puppet Theatre INE AS P E TA
AM
RY
11 TH T Frissiras
SO
H A 12
TRI
RA
ER
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ST
AN
Museum
IS
Cine K
IOU
POD
13
OM
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ISS
NG
OU
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ADHRIANOU
HALOU
AV
SIL
Museum Shop
YER
DHED
FA R
16
ON
A
15
PERIAN
VA
14 17
MA
TS
DA
OS
A
NG
OS
KI
AR
S H E L LY
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PID I
AFR OD HIT IS PLÁKA
OR
ES
D
TH HR National
OF
Monument of S OU
DO TH Gardens
LE
Lysikratos N
FO OL
OU
RE OU
HE
AK
EPIMEN
IDHOU PLATIA Ayía G K O U
TT
LY S I K R AT O U S Ekateríni RA
PI
LEO
LY S FOR
IKR Hadrian's OS
AT VA
OU Arch Entrance SIL
S
VYRONOS
ISS
FRYNIHOU
OU IS
KH OU OLG
VA IN AS
KH First Greek
ES Temple of
Protestant Olympian Zeus
Church
EATING & DRINKING
YI TO U Brettos
IO U A RE O PA 16 Ionos 12
D H IO N YS Damingos Iy Klimataria 3
TZIREON
MAKRI
Akropoli
M
To Háni 13 Vyzandino 11
POR
Contents Places
64
Folk Art and Tradition houses a Jewish Museum of Greece
collection of costumes, Níkis 39. wwww.jewishmuseum.gr.
embroidery, lace and weaving, Mon–Fri 9am–2.30pm, Sun
along with musical instruments, 10am–2pm. E3. Elegantly
ceramics, and icons and religious presented in a series of dimly lit
Pláka PLACES
Contents Places
KANELLOPOULOU MUSEUM
65
European travellers – Byron is
said to have written part of
Childe Harold here, and the
street beyond,Varonos, is named
after him.The old Street of the
PLACES Pláka
Tripods would have continued
in this direction – many impor-
tant ancient Athenian buildings
are thought to lie undiscovered
in the vicinity.
The Anafiótika
The main arteries of Pláka, above all Kydhathinéon with its crowds of restau-
rants and Adhrianoú, home of the Manchester United beach towel and “Sex in
Ancient Greece” playing cards, can become depressingly touristy. For a break,
climb up into the jumble of streets and alleys that cling to the lower slopes of
the Acropolis. There are still taverna tables set out wherever a bit of flat ground
can be found up here, but there are also plenty of quieter corners redolent of a
different era.
The whitewashed cubist houses of Anafiótika, as this quarter is known, pro-
claim a cheerfully architect-free zone. Many of the haphazard buildings were orig-
inally erected by workers from the island of Anáfi in the southern Aegean, who
were employed in the mid-nineteenth-century construction of Athens. Unable to
afford land, they took advantage of a customary law to the effect that if a roof and
four walls could be thrown up overnight, the premises were yours at sunrise.
Contents Places
66
ums, the Kanellopoulou collec- century provided the separate
tion, exhibited in the topmost facilities you see today. The
house under the Acropolis, is tepidarium and caldarium, fitted
well worth a visit. On the lower out in marble with domed
floors the many gorgeous gilded roofs and rooflights, are
Pláka PLACES
Turkish Baths
Kirístou 8. Wed & Sun 10am–2pm.
Free. Constructed originally in
the 1450s, though with many
later additions, the Turkish
Baths were in use right up to
1965. Newly restored, they
offer an insight into a part of
Athens’ past that is rarely
glimpsed and are well worth a
look. Traditionally, the baths
would have been used in shifts
by men and women, although
expansion in the nineteenth
Contents Places
67
Frissiras Museum Shop
Monís Asteríou 3. Classy store in
this modern art museum selling
posters, cards and upmarket
gifts.
PLACES Pláka
Spyros Aravandinos
Adhrianoú 114. Perhaps the
ultimate tourist shop.With a
branch directly opposite at no.
95, between them they sell
every souvenir conceivable,
from shadow puppets, sponges
and shells to tacky T-shirts and
priapic Pans.
Tribos
Angélou Yéronda 9. Alternative gift
shop that’s more interesting
than most, with folk art and
puppets among the hippy
PLÁKA ALLEYWAY accoutrements.
Contents Places
68
O Glykis Daphne’s
Angélou Yéronda 2. A secluded Lissikrátous 4 t210 32 27 971, wwww
corner under shaded trees just .daphnesrestaurant.gr. If you want to
off busy Kydhathinéon, impress the in-laws, this is the
frequented by a young Greek place to bring them. Everyone
Pláka PLACES
Restaurants To Háni
Adhrianoú 138 t210 32 28 966.
Damingos (Ta Bakaliarakia) Right in the heart of pedestri-
Kydhathinéon 41 t210 32 25 084. anized Adhrianoú, this slightly
Eves only; closed mid-July to end Aug. old-fashioned place has linen
Tucked away in a basement tablecloths and tables in a gar-
since 1865, this place has dour den courtyard at the rear as well
service, but the old-fashioned as on the street in front. Prices
style (hefty barrels in the back are high for standard Greek
room filled with the family’s food, justified by the position
home vintages including a and because they often have
memorable retsina, excellent cod good traditional music.
with garlic sauce and good
value make up for it. Iy Klimataria
Klepskdhras 5 t210 32 11 215. Eves
only. Having recently celebrated
TAVERNA TABLES
its centenary, this unpretentious
and pleasant
taverna has
decent
inexpensive food,
mainly grilled
meat and fish. In
winter, you’re
likely to be
treated to live
guitar and
accordion music,
which inspires
sing-alongs by
Contents Places
69
Palio Tetradhio
Mnisikléous 26, cnr Thrassívoulou
t210 32 11 903. One of the
tavernas with tables set out on
the stepped streets beneath the
PLACES Pláka
Acropolis.The food is a cut
above that of most of its
neighbours, though you pay for
the romantic setting.
O Platanos
Dhioyénous 4 t210 32 20 666. One
of the oldest tavernas in Pláka,
with outdoor summer seating
under the namesake plane tree
TAVERNA CLOSE-UP around the corner from the
Roman agora. Reasonably-
the mostly Greek clientele. In priced specialities include chops
the summer, the roof opens. and roast lamb with artichokes
or spinach and potatoes.The
Nefeli barrelled retsina is the real thing.
Pános 24, cnr Aretoúsas t210 32 12
475. Taverna eves only, Ouzerí open all Skholiarhio
day. Delightful setting, with Tripódhon 14 t210 32 47 605.
tables under a secluded grape Attractive, split-level taverna,
arbour or in an old mansion also known as Ouzerí Kouklis,
with a panoramic view, on a with a perennially popular
peaceful side street. Does a small summer terrace, screened from
but interesting selection of the street. It has a great selection
moderately priced classic Greek of mezédhes (e2–4 each),
dishes such as veal and lamb brought out on long trays so
stamna (casserole baked in a clay that you can point to the ones
pot).There’s live Greek music that you fancy. Especially good
most nights and a small dance are the flaming sausages, bouréki
floor.The adjacent synonymous (thin pastry filled with ham and
ouzerí, overlooking the church cheese) and grilled aubergine,
of Ayía Anna, is a busier local and the house red wine is
hangout favoured by young palatable and cheap.
Greeks.
Vyzandino
Palea Taverna Tou Psarra Kydhathinéon 18, on Platía
Erekhthéos 16 at Erotókritou t210 32 Filomoússou Eterías t210 32 27 368.
18 733. A restored old mansion Reliable, traditional taverna that
in a splendid setting, on a tree- still attracts locals on this busy,
shaded and bougainvillea-draped touristy square.Take a look in
pedestrian crossroads.You’re best the kitchen at the moderately
off sticking to the mezédhes, priced daily specials, such as
which include humble standards stuffed tomatoes, youvétsi and
as well as pricier seafood and the like.
fish dishes.
Contents Places
70
Contents Places
PLÁTIA MONASTIRAKÍOU
71
which have
been exca-
vated. Inside
the fenced
site, but just
Roman Athens
In 146 BC the Romans ousted Athens’ Macedonian rulers and incorporated the
city into their vast new province of Achaia. The city’s status as a renowned seat
of learning and great artistic centre ensured that it was treated with respect,
and Athenian artists and architects were much in demand in Rome. Not much
changed, in fact: there were few major construction projects, and what build-
ing there was tended to follow classical Greek patterns.
The history of this period was shaped for the most part by the city’s alliances,
which often proved unfortunate. In 86 BC, for example, Sulla punished Athens for
its allegiance to his rival Mithridates by burning its fortifications and looting its
treasures. His successors were more lenient; Julius Caesar offered a free pardon
after Athens had sided with Pompey, and Octavian (Augustus) showed similar
clemency when Athens harboured Brutus following Caesar’s assassination.
The one Roman emperor who did spend a significant amount of time in Athens,
and left his mark here, was Hadrian (reigned 117–138 AD). Among his grandiose
monuments are Hadrian’s Arch, a magnificent and immense library and (though it
had been begun centuries before) the Temple of Olympian Zeus. A generation later,
Herodes Atticus, a Roman senator who owned extensive lands in Marathon,
became the city’s last major benefactor of ancient times.
Contents Places
72
Fruit &
OUS
AS
Vegetable
RI
D H IP LA
P LATIA
S O K R AT
Bazaar
AT H I N
A RI ST
MY
ELEFTHE RIA S LOU O G EI TO
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Monastiráki and Psyrrí PLACES
RI
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Yiannis Patrikiadhou 22 Ellinikis
KY
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Astron Iy Palea Skala
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8 14 AGORAS
PAN
VRIL
MARKO
Contents Places
73
Un vers ty
OU Athens
GL University
ZO
ST
Meat & MA
ES OU
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E ID O U
P Panepistimio RH
AD
Seafood OA IA IOU
ST M TR R
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KHR RI
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City of Athens
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Museum of Greek Mavropoulos
Popular Musical
INON
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Instruments A O N
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TH O U
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Museum
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Contents Places
74
Musical Instruments traces the Museum of Greek Folk Art:
history of virtually everything Ceramics Collection
that has ever been played in Áreos 1. April–Sept Tues–Sun
Greece, including (in the base- 8am–7pm; Oct–March Tues–Sun
ment) some more unusual festi- 8.30am–3pm. e2. Squeezed
Monastiráki and Psyrrí PLACES
Contents Places
FLEA MARKET
75
The Kapnikaréa
Mon, Wed & Sat 8am–1pm; Tues, Thurs
& Fri 8am–12.30pm & 5–7.30pm; Sun
8–11.30am. Free. The pretty
Byzantine church of Kapnikaréa
Contents Places
76
Shops opens to Mitropóleos on one
side and Pandhróssou on the
2morrow other.There’s a wide selection
Kynnétou 3. Vintage women’s of traditional arts and crafts,
clothing store in the flea market especially ceramics and wood-
Monastiráki and Psyrrí PLACES
that also sells its own designs. carving, and mercifully little of
the hard sell often encountered
7+7 in the nearby flea market.
Iféstou 7. A choice selection of There’s also a quiet café.
old and new rock and Greek
music on vinyl and CD.There Museum of Greek Popular
are several other music places Musical Instruments
nearby in the flea market. Dhioyénous 1–3. Excellent selec-
tion of CDs of traditional Greek
Apriati music, albeit not cheap, plus
Mitropóleos 9, cnr Pendelis. some simple instruments to
Athenians love their jewellery, make your own.
and this designer store – sand-
wiched between old-fashioned National Welfare
jewellers – is typical of the inno- Organization
vative upmarket style of the city. Ipatías 6, cnr Apóllonos. Rugs,
embroideries, copperware – tra-
Fokas ditional craft products made in
Ermoú 11. Department store at remote country districts.
the heart of the fashion shop-
ping area. Nikos Mavropoulos
Platía Mitropóleos 10. From the
Gold Rose outside a glittering Aladdin’s
Pandhróssou 85. Interesting little cave, this is one of a number of
shop with a wide range of jew- wonderfully old-fashioned stores
ellery and decorative items, from behind the cathedral selling reli-
icons to body piercings and gious paraphernalia – icons,
even samurai swords. bible covers, robes, chandeliers
and much more.
Kendro Ellinikis Paradosis
Mitropóleos 59 or Pandhróssou 36. Stavros Melissinos
This pleasant upstairs emporium Pandhróssou 89. The “poet-
sandalmaker” of
Athens, Melissinos
was something of a
celebrity in the
1960s, hammering
out sandals for the
Beatles, Jackie
Onassis and the like;
it is said that John
Lennon sought him
out specifically for
his poetic musings on
wine and the sea,
which Melissinos
continues to sell
alongside the
CATHEDRAL SQUARE
Contents Places
77
footwear.The sandals translate tle of the main Ermoú shopping
better than the poems. strip. Similar cafés can be found
in many of the side streets north
Annita Patrikiadhou of Ermoú.
Pandhróssou 58. Genuine antiqui-
Antica Cioccalateria
Platía Ayíon Anaryíron. It seems there’s
a café on every corner in Psyrrí,
Restaurants
but if you fancy a change from Baïraktaris
frappé this place serves thirty Mitropóleos 88, cnr Platía
types of chocolate drink as well Monastirakíou. Over a century
as a similar variety of teas. old, this lively restaurant occu-
pies two buildings, the walls
Bread Deli lined with wine barrels and
Adhrianoú 52. Inside a glossy new photos of celebrities. Some
shopping centre in the flea mar- tables are on the bustling pedes-
ket district, this café/bakery trian street, but for a cosier
offers a quiet retreat from the atmosphere eat inside with the
furore outside. Great cakes and local regulars, where there’s
other bakery treats, too. often impromptu live Greek
music.The straightforward,
Café Kornarou inexpensive menu includes sou-
Kornárou 4. A good place to break vláki, gyros and oven dishes such
your shopping trip for coffee as tsoutsoukakia (meatballs in
and a sandwich, just off the bus- tomato sauce).
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78
Brachera Iy Palea Skala
Platía Avyssinías 3 t210 32 17 202. Lepeniótou 25, cnr Leokoríou t210 32
Eves (from 9pm) & Sun lunch only. 12 677. With seating inside an
Closed Mon. Upmarket, modern old house and on a terrace in
Greek and Mediterranean summer, this place is generally
Monastiráki and Psyrrí PLACES
Contents Places
79
with locals at lunchtime: there’s popular meeting place. Food is
no booking, so you’ll have to served during the day.
fight for a table.Watch for the
side dish of peppers, which are Soul Garden
unusually fiery. Evripídhou 65 t210 33 10 907.
Zidhoron
Clubs
Táki 10, cnr Ayíon Anaryíron t210 32 Blaze-T
15 368. Closed Aug. A typical Psyrrí Aristophánous 30 t210 32 34 823.
upscale mezhedopolío, painted Freestyle disco with sounds
bright yellow and in a great loca- ranging from hip-hop to techno.
tion right by the square. It serves
tasty Middle Eastern foods like Vibe
pastourmás, haloúmi and hummus, Aristophánous 1 t210 32 47 94.
as well as Greek favourites such Minimalist, Japanese-style decor
as baked feta, grilled peppers and and frequent “happenings” at
baked aubergine. this bar/club, featuring guest
DJs playing everything from
Zothos trance to house.
Karaïskáki 28 t210 33 14 601. This
“beer restaurant” lays more
emphasis on the beer than the
food – claiming to serve 120
Live music
beers plus eight from the barrel. Pinakothíki
The accompanying dishes have Ayías Théklas 5 t210 32 47 741.
an appropriately Germanic Closed Sun. Small, cosy folk music
influence. venue with appearances from
respected Greek and foreign
artists.
Bars
Astron
Táki 3 t697 74 69 356. Eves only.
One of Psyrrí’s busiest bars –
partly perhaps because it’s so
small – which gets really packed
when the guest DJs crank it up
later on.
Bee
Miaoúli 6 cnr Thémidos t210 32 12
624. Closed Sun. Thanks to a loca-
tion right by an exit from
Monastiráki metro station on
the way up to Psyrrí, this cool,
modern, moodily lit bar is a
CAFÉ IN PSYRRÍ
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80
Contents Places
81
AHIL OS N
DH
L LLE
EOS AHI
EL
KO
Athinaïs &
IY
LO
IAS
Pieridhes Museum of
IO
NO
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S KI S
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PI 9 AL Vasiliou Monastiráki
S Camel Flea Market
ES
IRAKLIDHON Entrance
TH
S
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IR ILIS
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THISSÍO NILEO
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EX
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N TOS
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APO
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Ayía Marina
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N National
Acropolis
ION
Observatory
SSA
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of Athens
DO
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THE
Areopagus Entrance
PAV
OF
ME Hill of the
Rock
IM
LIT US Pnyx
EO
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US
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Theatre of
EO
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Hill of the
KL
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Prison of
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ÁNO
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Monument
H
DH
P ETR ÁLONA Filopáppou
RA
RYO M
PON of Filopappus AR
KO
Hill
N
KO
U
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ARK
M
SI
O
PO
AR
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AK
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AR
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OU
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Barfly 4 Skoufias 16
ON
7 KO
TaUSokakia
K A K I tou
I
Contents Places
82
a taxi. Gázi is a late-night place: capped by a grandiose monu-
there’s not much point trying to ment to a Roman senator and
eat before 9, or drink before 11 consul, Filopappus, who is
– preferably later. It really depicted driving his chariot on its
comes into its own late on frieze.To the west is the Dora
Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona PLACES
Friday night and over the week- Stratou Theatre (see p.169). On
end – by day, and early in the the way up the hill, the main
week, it can be deserted. Áno path follows a line of truncated
Petrálona, too, is a short taxi ancient walls, past the attractive
ride from the centre, and most sixteenth-century church of
places are also easily accessible Áyios Dhimítrios, inside which
from Petrálona metro. are some original Byzantine fres-
coes. Further down, in the rock-
Filopáppou Hill face near the base of the hill, you
A network of paths leads from can make out a kind of cave
traffic-free Dhionysíou dwelling, known (more from
Areopayítou, below the imagination than evidence) as the
Acropolis entrance, up prison of Socrates.
Filopáppou Hill, also known in
antiquity as the “Hill of the The Pnyx
Muses” (Lófos Mousón). It pro- The Hill of the Pnyx was used
vides fabulous views of the in Classical Athens as the meet-
Acropolis and the city beyond, ing place for the democratic
especially at sunset (although assembly, which gathered more
night-time muggings have than forty times a year. All
occurred here, so take care). except the most serious political
This strategic height has played issues were aired here, the hill
an important, if generally sorry, on the north side providing a
role in the city’s history. In 1687 convenient semicircular terrace
it was from here that the shell from which to address the
that destroyed the roof of the crowd. All male citizens could
Parthenon was lobbed; more vote and, at least in theory, all
recently, the colonels placed tanks could voice their opinions,
on the slopes during their coup though the assembly was harsh
of 1967.The hill’s summit is on inarticulate or foolish speak-
VIEW FROM FILOPÁPPOU HILL
Contents Places
83
ers.There are some impressive
remains of the original walls,
which formed the theatre-like
court, and of stoas where the
assembly would have taken
Contents Places
Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona PLACES 84
KERAMEIKOS SITE
Contents Places
85
of the place, a sizeable
conference centre.The
Restaurants
Pierídhes Museum of Barfly
Ancient Cypriot Art (daily Voutádhon 34 t210 34 60 347. Eves
9.30am–1pm; E3) is beautifully only. One of the “neo-
Contents Places
86
Khrysa Stavlos
Dhimofóndos 81 t210 34 12 515. Iraklidhón 10 t210 34 67 206.
Eves only, closed June–Sept. Classy Originally used as royal stables
and fairly pricey restaurant with during the nineteenth century,
some pavement seating, serving now one of the more popular
Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona PLACES
Contents Places
87
house serving imaginative mainly a young crowd; Fridays
Anatolian and Greek mezédhes feature music from the 1980s.
in an enclosed courtyard. Best
Thurs–Sat when it’s busy and Cone
there’s live rebétika and laïká Triptolémou 35, Gázi t 210 34 58 118.
Clubs Sodade
Triptolémou 10, Gázi t 210 34 68 657.
Camel Club Daily 11pm–3.30am. Stylish gay
Iraklidhón 74, Thissío t 210 34 76 crowd and great music – one
847. Opens 11.30pm. Indie rock room plays Greek and
and pop music are the themes at mainstream, the other quality
this newish bar club, drawing dance music.
Contents Places
88
Contents Places
89
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Contents Places
Platía Omonías and around PLACES 90
SEAFOOD MARKET
Contents Places
91
ethnographic collection, a kitchenware, crockery and deco-
library and historical archives. rations, as well as rich collec-
tions of furniture displayed in a
City of Athens Museum series of lavish period rooms
Paparigopoúlou 5–7, Platía which include the king’s throne
Contents Places
92
Eleftheroudhakis is reasonably priced and stocks
Panepistimíou 17.The city’s best just about everything you could
bookshop, with five floors of want. It has several floors of
English books.There’s also an clothes, as well as a top-floor
Internet café and an excellent café with Acropolis views.
Platía Omonías and around PLACES
Xylouris
Panepistimíou 39, in the arcade. Run
by the widow of the late, great
Cretan singer Nikos Xylouris,
this is currently one of the best
places for Greek popular, folk
and (of course) Cretan music.
Stocks items unavailable
elsewhere.
Restaurants
Athinaïkon
Themistokléous 2 t210 38 38 485.
Closed Sun. An old ouzerí that has
recently relocated, but without
losing its style – marble tables,
old posters, etc. Good-sized,
mid-priced mezédhes include
shrimp croquettes and mussels
simmered with cheese and
peppers.
PERIPTERO, OMÓNIA
Contents Places
VANGELIS TAVERNA
93
Lefteris
Satovriándhou 20 t210 52 25
676. A simple, cheap to
mid-range grill restaurant
serving decent souvláki,
To Monastiri
Central meat market (entrance
from Eólou 81). Open 24hr.
The best of the three
restaurants here; the raw
Bar Guru Bar ingredients are certainly fresh,
Platía Theátrou 10 t210 32 46 530. and it serves patsás (tripe and
Busy and sometimes noisy “fun trotter soup), reputedly a good
restaurant” with a Thai twist. hangover cure.
The moderately priced dishes
are pretty authentic, though Nargis
dressed up to appeal to its fast, Sofokléous 60 t210 52 48 775.
funky clientele. Tucked inside a stoa, this small
Bengali canteen wins no prizes
Cellier le Bistrot for decor, but has an authentic
Panepistimíou 12 t210 36 38 525. Indian atmosphere and meat
With a Greek/international and vegetarian curries at very
menu and a wide selection of low prices.
wines, all dishes are carefully
prepared and well presented. It’s Pak Indian
popular with the business com- Menándhrou 13 t210 32 19 412. A
munity for lunch, while at night beautiful Indian restaurant,
there’s live piano music. somewhat at odds with its
surroundings.The food is
Ideal excellent – fresh and delicately
Panepistimíou 46 t210 33 03 000. spiced, and there’s interesting
Closed Sun. A mid-range (recorded) music, as well as the
restaurant with bright, cheerful occasional live concert.
art deco decor, serving
traditional, old-style mayireftá, Taÿgetos
imaginative daily specials and a Satovriándhou 4 t210 52 35 352.
decent selection of foreign- Closed Sun. A no-frills, budget
inspired dishes. restaurant with great souvláki,
grilled lamb and chicken sold by
Klimataria the kilo.There’s also a decent
Platía Theátrou 2 t210 32 16 629. A selection of mayireftá and
mid-range, old-world type of palatable draught wine.
taverna with rightly popular
sessions of Smyrna-inspired Vangelis
rebétika music sessions. It serves Sahíni 6, cnr Liossíon (sign in Greek).
a variety of rich mezédhes, with One of the friendliest and most
carafes of ouzo or draught authentic tavernas in central
retsina. Athens, with a relaxing garden
in use in summer. Mixture of
Contents Places
94
grilled and oven food with The city’s most important venue
superb kondosoúvli and kokorétsi for foreign and Greek rock, soul
their real speciality. Handy for and reggae groups – there’s a
the train station. good atmosphere in this
converted cinema.
Platía Omonías and around PLACES
Contents Places
95
The Archeological
Museum, Exárhia and
Contents Places
96
Bus Terminal (10m)
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Contents Places
97
EATING & DRINKING
After Dark 19 Intriga 6
Alexandra 15 Iy Lefka 16
Alexandria 1 L.A. Rock 7
Barba Yannis 13 O Pinaleon 17
Decadence 4 Recital 3
Pedhío Epistrofi Stin Ithaki 12 Rozalia 10
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Contents Places
98
men, and an eye-catching cup pieces on display are various
decorated with twining octopus- copies of the lost Pheidias
es and dolphins. Further refer- Athena, the original centrepiece
ences to Homer abound, most of the Parthenon.
notably a magnificent Boar’s Tusk
The Archeological Museum, Exárhia and Neápoli PLACES
Helmet and an ivory lyre with Lófos tou Stréfi (Stréfis Hill)
sphinxes adorning the sound- Lying between the suburbs of
board. Neápoli and Exárhia, this sud-
The large collection of den break in the monotony of
Cycladic art contains pre- the cityscape is a little-visited
Mycenaean pieces from the oasis where you can escape for
Aegean islands. Many of these an hour or two from the street
idols suggest the abstract forms bustle.There is an easy path to
of modern Cubist art – most the hill’s low summit, where you
strikingly in the much-repro- can enjoy fine views over all
duced Man Playing a Lyre. parts of Athens.Take care here
Another unusual piece is a six- though with children, as there’s
teenth-century-BC cylindrical an unfenced drop on the east
vase depicting a ring of fisher- side.
men carrying fish by their tails.
Early sculpture highlights Pedhío tou Áreos
include the Aristion Stele of a One of the few green areas in
Young Warrior, with delicately the centre of Athens, the Pedhío
carved beard, hair and tunic- tou Áreos (Plain of Mars) is a
folds, and the Croesus kouros fairly large park of trees, gardens
(statue of an idealized youth), and meandering paths. A long
both from the late sixth century boulevard bisects the park, with
BC. a line of statues of heroes of the
The Classical sculpture col- Greek War of Independence
lection includes a mid-fifth-cen- keeping silent vigil over the
tury-BC bronze Statue of strolling visitors.
Poseidon, athletic body perfectly
balanced as he stands poised to
throw his trident. Other major
Classical works include the
Shops
Little Jockey of Artemission, the Action Records
delicate bronze figure seeming Mavromiháli 51 t210 36 19 924.
too small for his galloping While you can find all the latest
horse; the bronze Ephebe of Greek and non-Greek CDs at
Antikithira from the fourth cen- the major retail stores on
tury BC; and from the third Stadhíou or Panepistimíou, this
century BC the bronze head of is the place to buy a genuine
a philosopher, with furrowed bouzoúki, baglamás or laoúto if
brow and unkempt hair. you fancy your hand at playing
The most reproduced of all Greek music.
the later sculptures is a statue
from the first century AD of a
naked Aphrodite about to rap
Pan’s knuckles for getting too
Restaurants
fresh. There is also an extraordi- Alexandra
nary bronze equestrian portrait Zonará 21 t210 64 20 874. Closed
statue of the Roman Emperor Sun. A converted old house with
Augustus. Among other Roman smart decor, verandah seating in
Contents Places
99
summer and occasional Exostrefis
accordion music.The Lófos Stréfi. Entered from beside
imaginative, inexpensive dishes the basketball court on Stréfi
include aubergine croquettes, Hill, this breezy ouzerí amidst
beetroot salad with walnuts, and the pines offers substantial
Contents Places
100
Rozalia musical tastes from the 1980s
Valtetsíou 58 t210 33 02 933. Ever- onwards, but especially
popular mid-range mezédhes- mainstream guitar-based rock.
plus-grill taverna, with excellent The scene can be fast and
chicken and highly palatable furious.
The Archeological Museum, Exárhia and Neápoli PLACES
Fairy Tale
Kolétti 25 t210 33 01 763. Daily
10pm–3am. A classic city-style bar
drawing an arty, largely lesbian
crowd; guest DJs play a mixed
Greek and non-Greek music
selection. Also open Sunday
afternoons for coffee and cake.
L.A. Rock
Themistokléous & Methónis 58 t210
38 44 024. Opens 9.30pm. A rock
bar for all ages, encompassing
Contents Places
101
hot in this arty joint, where music from all over Greece.
electronic pop and rock feature Extremely popular with univer-
prominently. DJs and VJs sity students, who jam the dance
complete the scene. floor and aisles. Drinks E6 (two
drinks minimum).
Wunderbar Mo Better
Themistokléous 80, Platía Exarhíon. Kolétti 32. E6 entry includes drink.
Opens 9am. Fans of electro and Cramped but fun bar on the
techno-pop gather at this first floor of a Neoclassical
alternative venue for non- building, with hip-hop, punk
mainstream sounds.The patrons and indie rock.
tend to be neo-mods with
eclectic dress and music sense. Parafono
Asklipíou 130A t210 64 46 512.
Small, congenial place featuring
Live music Greek jazz bands.
Contents Places
102
1 (150m)
N 2 Y I A N N I S TAT H A Christ 3
HERSONOS
Church
ANAGNOSTOPOULOU
MANTZAROU
DHIMAKI H OU
SKOUFA
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ROMA
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B
Contents Places
103
Modern Art, though these remain unvisitable. If you’ve
the stamina, the other museums in the area – the War
Museum, the Byzantine and Christian Museum, the
National Art Gallery and the Aléxandros Soútzos
Museum – may appeal but are mainly for enthusiasts. At
ARYIROUPOLEOS
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Lykavitós
IA
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RI
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Library
RAKI
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U
Elefteriou
British Navy Venizelou
PIRO
S PET
HIT
Archeological Museum ON
Kriti (700m)
17 ON
EVZ
ANA
School SOU
IDHIAS
MONI
OS
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Alsos
ADI
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N Mégaro
Eleftherias Mousikís
ENN
Hospital
IAS
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VLAD
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Alekos Island 5 Fourtouna 17
NNO
SEM
PET
Moussikis
Baila 14 Ikio 16
PSA
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Café Alu Alexándras
IPSI
4 To Kioupi 11
ITE
NIS
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IOA
DOU Hospital
KOU
ENS
Central 12 Mommy 1
Palenque (600m)
LOU
MO
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Cilentio 2 Rodhia 10
I
City 15 Rooms 8
INIT
Aretaíeion
0 200 m Dhimokritos Hospital6 Sale & Pepe 9
OU
Filippou 13 Ta Skalakia
PONDOU 18
Memphis (100m) Hi-Hat Café (400m) Tsai stin Sahara (50m) 18 (200m)
Contents Places
104
Lykavitós Hill
Lykavitós Hill offers tremendous
views at any time, but
particularly from late afternoon
onwards – on a clear day you
Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill PLACES
Contents Places
106
Goulandhrís Museum of
Cycladic and Ancient
Greek Art
Neofktou Dhouká 4 wwww.cycladic
-m.gr. Mon, Wed, Thurs & Fri
Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill PLACES
Contents Places
107
War Museum most of them major loans from
Cnr Vasilíssis Sofias & Rizári 2. the world’s best museums, and
Tues–Sat 9am–2pm, Sun these are definitely worth
9.30am–2pm. Free. The only catching.
“cultural” endowment of the
Contents Places
108
Carouzos Giorgos Eleftheriadis
Patriárhou Ioakím 14 t210 72 45 Pindárou 38 t210 36 15 278. A
873. Part of a chain of great little boutique from a fine
upmarket boutiques selling Greek designer. Styles are avant-
high-quality clothing, with a garde – European in cut but
Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill PLACES
Contents Places
109
This ‘n’ That Cilentio
Levéndi 7 t210 72 93 790. A touch Mantzárou 3 & Sólonos t210 36 33
of the Orient, with ethnic 144. Serving modern
fashions, kaftans, sandals and Mediterranean and Greek fusion
shawls. dishes, this upmarket and fairly
PLATÍA KOLONAKÍOU
Contents Places
110
taverna, favourite of office workers sauce, while the prices go fairly
and residents, is liveliest at lunch. easy on your pocket.
The food is fresh and moderately
priced, and includes good grills, Rooms
stews and casseroles. Kriezótou 11 t210 36 15 628. A
Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill PLACES
Contents Places
111
Clubs Kriti
Ayíou Thomá 8, Ambelókipi t210 77
Café Alu 58 258. Closed Mon. Live music
Skoufá & Omírou 58 t210 36 11 116. venue specializing in Cretan
Opens 10pm. Upbeat venue, music.
Contents Places
112
Contents Places
113
the only building on Sandagma centre of Greek political
to have survived postwar intrigue: in one notorious
development. Past the impressive episode,Winston Churchill
facade and uniformed doormen, narrowly avoided being blown
the interior is magnificently up here on Christmas Day
National
SK
SO
Historical
OU
M
ST
LO
ILI
Museum U
NO
FA
TO
AD
ON
ZO
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S
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HI
ST KR I
IM IA S
RE
VOULIS
OU
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UK Hotel Grande
IN
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VO
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Bretagne
AKADH
MERL
SEKER
S< N DAG M A
PERIKLE M Benáki
O U S VA SS IL
EO S YE OR YI OUSyndagma Museum
VASILI
1 Tomb of the SSIS S
ERMO Syndagma OFIAS
U M Unknown
PLATIA Soldier Evzones
SYNDAGMATOS Voulí Barracks
MITROP Syndagma M (Parliament
OLEOS Building)
OTHON
OS
A POLLO NO S Syndagma
M
NON
NIKIS
S
SKOUF
VOULI
FILELLI
XE NO FO ND
OS
OU
AT T I K O U
S
Botanical
A L IA
i Museum
Russian Church National
of St Nicodemus Y. S
Gardens
AM
OU
N IK IS
HO
LAMA U
KO
RI
DH
Jewish Presidential
RO
SI
Museum Palace
U
LIS
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THIN
D HA Greek Folk Art
SI
KY
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Museum
VA
Frissiras P E TA Anglican
OS
Church 2
Museum
OR
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TS
OF
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LE
RI
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AK
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RO
Hadrian's Arch S V Gardens
A SIL
ISS PL ATIA
IS S TA D H IO U
OL
GA
S
Panatheniac
Temple of Stadium
Olympian Zeus
EATING & DRINKING
Aigli Restaurant Bar 3
0 150 m Everest 1
Oasis 2
Contents Places
114
that Churchill was one of their the National Gardens – not so
potential victims. much a flower garden as a
luxuriant tangle of trees, whose
The Voulí shade, benches and duck ponds
Platía Syndágmatos. Not open to the provide palpable relief from the
Sdndagma and around PLACES
Contents Places
115
Contents Places
116
The Temple of Olympian Zeus complex and a gateway from
Entrance on Vasilíssis Ólgas. Daily: the wall of the Classical city.The
April–Sept 8am–7pm; Oct–March south side of the enclosure
8.30am–3pm. E2, or joint Acropolis overlooks a futher area of
ticket. The colossal pillars of the excavation (not open to the
Sdndagma and around PLACES
Contents Places
117
Contents Places
Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki PLACES 118
Centre of Jewish
EATING & DRINKING Folk Art & Museum
Tradition
Açai 5 Koukles 16
Aenaon 10 Mayemenos Avlos 2 Children’s
Apanemia 9 Pinelopi kai Mnistires 11 Museum Greek
Edodi 14 Psistaria Ambrosia 12 Frissiras Folk Art
The Guys 6 Spondi 15 Monument Museum Museum
Kalimarmaron 4 O Themistoklis 1 of Lysikratos
To Kalyvi 13 Vyrinis 8
PLÁKA
Karavitis 3 Xanthippi 7 P L AT I A
LY S I K R AT O U S Entrance
Theatre of
DHIONY Dionysos Hadrian's Arch
SIOU A
R E O PA YITOU Entrance
MAKRIYIÁNNI
MAKRI
KALLISPERI Temple of
I
Akropoli M
G A R I VA L D I
NN
RO Olympian Zeus
VE
YIA
RT
OU Acropolis M
F R AT T I GA Museum Akropoli
KRI
ON
AT
PA R T H E N
LLI
site H
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PROPYLEON
D HA N A
MA
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of Filopappus U
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Stravos IO
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tou Notou FR Y L I
A N G
US
AN
TZ
I
Contents Places
119
The Panathenaic Stadium Herodes Atticus later undertook
The old Olympic Stadium (aka to refurbish the 60,000 seats of
the Panathenaic Stadium or the the entire stadium; the white
Kalimármaro) is a nineteenth- marble from these was to
century reconstruction on provide the city with a
National U
Gardens NO
DI
TIK OU
PLATIA
AN S
R IZ A
ST 1
SKOUZE NO
N AMYNDA RO (20m)
KO 2 HI
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Záppio 3
AR
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AT
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SI S
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S TA D H I O U AG
OLG RA Alsos
IPPODH
RKOURI
AS
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NIKOSTH
EN
SPYROU ME
OU
AGRAS
Panathenaic PLATIA
5
OU Ardhittós Stadium PLASTIRA EVTYHIDH
H ITT OU
ARD Hill
A 7
PIG
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MA
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First Cemetery
U
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of Athens AR
M
DH
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PN
RHO
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IP PA IM FR 0 250 m
IT
KO
A
LY
Contents Places
120
Atticus. It’s still used by local sanctuaries existed along what
athletes and as the finishing was once a bucolic location.
point for the Athens Marathon Ardhittós Hill is still widely
– and indeed for the 2004 held to be haunted by ancient
Olympic Games marathon. spirits.
Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki PLACES
Contents Places
121
wine, mezédhes and oven-baked
main courses. In summer there’s
outdoor seating in an enclosed
garden.
To Kalyvi
Restaurants Empedhokléous 26, Pangráti t 210 75
20 641. Eves only, closed June–Sept.
Aenaon A good budget choice, serving
Plateía Varnáva 9, Pangráti t 210 70 excellent, traditional mezédhes-
15 169. Closed Sun. Mid-range type fare.The decor’s rustic and
place popular for its wine- they sometimes have live music.
mezédhes, especially the spicy
“fire and lava” version. Good Mayemenos Avlos
draught wine is served, and Amknda 4, Pangráti t 210 72 23 195.
rebétika sessions take place on The long-established
Friday and Saturday evenings. Mayemenos Avlos is one of a
trio of small tavernas on this
Apanemia diminutive square.The setting is
Erekthíou 2 & Veïkou, Koukáki t 210 intimate and the patronage
92 28 766. Closed Sun. A smart mainly Greek. Serves the usual
ouzerí with a particularly large grills and mezédhes at prices that
selection of decently priced don’t hit too hard, and there’s
mezédhes, seafood and fine meat occasional live music.
dishes such as pot-roast goat.
Pinelopi kai Mnistires
Edodi Imittoú 130, Pangráti t210 75 68
Veïkou 80, Koukáki t210 92 13 013. 555. Close to Plateía Profíti Ilía,
Eves only, closed Sun. One of Pinelopi kai Mnistires
Athens’ finest restaurants, Edodi (Penelope and her Suitors) is a
is a great place for a splurge.The bustling restaurant favoured by
imaginative dishes can be almost Greeks in search of fun and no-
dazzling – with prices to match nonsense food such as the
– and include swordfish in a mid-priced mousakás and
crust of potatoes with mustard souvláki.There’s live music most
sauce, and tart with feta, tomato, evenings.
aubergine and prosciutto.
Waiters will show you all of the Psistaria Ambrosia
various creations before you Dhrákou 3–5, Koukáki t210 92 20
make a choice. 281. Just up from Syngrou-Fix
metro, this popular grill place
Karavitis offers great value on a
Pafsaníou 4, Pangráti t210 72 15 155. pedestrian street full of fast-
Eves only. A traditional, good- food outlets and small
value taverna with draught restaurants.
Contents Places
122
Spondi The Guys
Pkrronos 5, Pangráti t 210 75 20 658. Lembési 8, Makriyánni t210 92 14
Eves only. A contender for Athens’ 244. Wed–Mon 10pm–3am. A cool,
best restaurant, the swish menu gay lounge-bar where the Greek
here is French-influenced and is and international music draws in
Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki PLACES
Half-Note
Bars Trivonianoú 17, Mets t210 92 13 310.
Closed Tues and much of the summer.
Açai Good live jazz most nights,
Márkou Mousoúrou 1, Mets t 210 92 often featuring acts from abroad.
37 109. Opens 9pm. E12 entrance on
Fri & Sat. A popular venue with Stravos tou Notou
the over-thirties, the balcony Tharípou 37, Neos Kosmos. One of
here has some of the best views the liveliest rock clubs in town,
of Athens and Lykavittos by featuring mostly Greek acts but
night.The music varies from with the occasional foreign artist.
dance to mainstream.
Contents Places
123
Suburban Athens
Athens pushes its suburbs higher and wider each year
and all the places covered in this chapter, originally well
Dhafní transport
Take bus #A16 or #B16 from Platía Eleftherías, 300m down Pireós from Omónia
(Platía Eleftherías is popularly known as Platía Koumoundoúrou and the return
buses are so marked); the monastery is to the left of the road, about twenty min-
utes’ ride. Note that the Dhafní metro station is actually in the suburb of Dhafní,
on the other side of the city.
Dhafní is easily combined with a visit to Eleusis (see p.137), a further twenty-
minute ride on the #A16 bus route.
Contents Places
124
KIFISSIÁ
Kifissia
5 M
1 E7
AT I K
I OD
H OS Kat M
Maroussi
HAS S I AS
Athens Airport
M
Suburban Athens PLACES
AT
AS
IKI
NÉA IRÁKLIO OD
IS SI
HO
ÁYII FILADÉLFIA M IraklioM S
KIF
PETROÚPOLI ANARGÍRI Pefkakia M
M Nea Ionia Irini
Olympic
NÉA IÓNIA Stadium
M IS
Perissos
EL
ÍLION ND
PE
M Ano GALÁTSI
Áyios Eleftherios M Patissia
PAT I S S I O N
HAÏDHÁRI IO N
AS
N AT I O N A L OG
R O AD Kato Patissia M SS
SI
8 ME
NÉO
IS
E9
KIF
Dhafní
4 Sepolia M Áyios Nikolaos
IE
M PSÍHIKO
RA EGALÉO Attiki M Ethniki Amyna
OD M Panormou
HO M Katehaki
S Larissa M M Victoria M
Metaxourghio
M Omonia M Ambelokipoi
N
IVO
Panepistimio M
M M Megaro Moussikis
O U L AMB R A
TH
ORI
Monastiraki
GRIG KI M Evangelismos
M M M
Line Syndagma
LI TÁVROS Thissio 1 ZOGRAFOÚ
RA
O U
Petralona M M Akropoli
TR
PE Tavros M M Syngrou-Fix
ON
M Pireas Li
GR
S
PO SID
M HO
N
NÉA IMITTÓS
SY
1 & SMÍRNI
VO
S
ó s
2
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PIREÁS PALEÓ
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FÁLIRO
P ILIOÚPOLI
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IS
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KAVOÚRI
NA
S
VOULIAGMÉNI
Rail
0 4 km
Tram
Contents Places
PANDOKRÁTOR, DHAFNÍ
125
have done since ancient times.
Athenians still come to collect
water from the local fountains,
though these days you’re
strongly advised not to drink
Kessarianí
t210 72 36 619. Tues–Sun
8am–2.30pm; E2.50. The
monastery of Kessarianí is a
beautiful and wonderfully
peaceful place, just 5km from the
centre of the city and yet high
enough up the slopes of Mount
Imittós to escape the hubbub.
The sources of the River
Ilissos provide for extensive
gardens hereabouts, as they
Kessarianí transport
Take blue bus #223 or #224 from Akadhimías to the terminus by Kessarianí
municipal stadium. From here the monastery is a thirty- to forty-minute climb
straight ahead, on a path beside the road up the lower slopes of Mount Imittós.
Contents Places
126 1 (200m)
F I LY R O N
MYR N
KIFISSIA SIN
YSOU
IS
OU
DH
DHILIYIA
NNI THEOD.
DION
VI
LE
OTHONOS Gaia
I ST EF.
Centre Goulandhrís
TA T O I O U
MALIA
Suburban Athens PLACES
Natural History 2
DH RA GO UM
Y E O R G A N DA
3
Museum
K O K K O TA
4
VA S . A
P L AT Í A
5 PAPA
DHIA Pinakothiki K E FA L A R I O U
IAS
MAN Kouvoutsaki I
TI A
M
Kiffisia ADH N
RIA PA N Kaloyirou
ARG
YRO O PENDELIS
TR
SS
NOU AY IT PO
Kifissia Park SAS
Glou U L O U
Preview KO
FI
Exclusive O
KOL
KI
I
IAZ
KAPODHISTRIOU
CHLOIS
Ammonites Café- bus K AS S AV ET I
3 stop
Y E O R G A N DA
Restaurant
NI
KYR
KA
SSA
SI
.
VET
U GR
KARAIS
RO
I KAKI
Dos Hermanos 8 DH 7
ROU
N T IO
Katsarina 1 8
OU
NAXOU
MoBi 5
A FY E
KYRIAK
KYP
NA XO U
Monippo 7 A LO N
IO N
ALONION
Tesseres Epohes 9
TGI Fridays 2 ACCOMMODATION
0 250 m
Varsos 6 9 Kefalari Suites A
Kifissiá transport
Kifissiá is the northernmost stop on the metro, 35 minutes or so from Omónia,
passing the Olympic site at Iríni along the way. There are also numerous buses,
including the #550, which heads through the centre via Syngroú and Vassilísis
Sofías, and the #E7, #A7 and #B7, all of which start from Platía Káningos near
Omónia.
Contents Places
127
to get an audio guide). Lastly, Pireás
the Pinakothiki Kouvoutsaki Pireás has been the port of
(Tues–Fri 9am–2pm & 6–9pm; Athens since Classical times,
Sat & Sun 10am–3pm; free) is a when the so-called Long Walls,
private collection of modern scattered remnants of which can
AK
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PIREÁS & Híos OL SI
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LI
Kentrikó Limani Cyclades & West Cyclades Train Station
I (Peloponnese)
OT
(Central Port) AS
SI
RIO
U
AY
S /ros, Tínos M M
HA
LI
IO
& M /konos Pireas ÏD
KA HA
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DH
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KO
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Dodecanese Saronic See Inset Map AL
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International ED
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Municipal
PILIS
U
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TO SI
U
KOLOKOTRONI
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KH Theatre Flea
SOTIROS
I R O Ö N P O LY T E K H N I O U
SA b Market
d I R O Ö N P O LY T E K H N I O U
TRIKOUP I
KARAÏSKOU
KARAOL I KE DHIMIT RIOU
KARAÏSKOU
KARAÏSKOU
Archeological
PILIS
Museum KOUNDOURIOTI
F R E AT I D H A S
KOUNDOURIOTI
AKT
I M
GRIGORIOU LAMBRAKI
O
UT
GRIGORIOU LAMBRAKI
VA S I L E O S G E O R G I O U
ZANI
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SOTIROS
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PILIS
POULOU
Pasalímano DELIYIORYI
OP
S
(25m)
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EATING & DRINKING BUS STOPS
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Pireás transport
The metro takes about twenty minutes from Omónia to Pireás. Bus #40 (every
10min 5am–midnight, hourly 1–5am) runs to and from Skndagma; #49 from
Omónia (every 15min 5am–midnight, hourly 1–5am). Bus #904 runs from near the
metro to Zéa Marina, trolley-bus #20 to Mikrolímano. Taxis cost E6–7 at day-tar-
Suburban Athens PLACES
iff from the centre of Athens – worth considering, especially if you’re heading for
Zéa Marina or Mikrolímano, which are a long walk from the metro.
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Glyfádha transport
From central Athens take bus #A2 (which continues to Voúla), #E2 express, #A3 or
#B3: all of them leave from Akadhimías. For other beaches along the coast, trans-
fer onto local services #114 (Glyfádha–Kavoúri–Vouliagméni) or #115/6
(Glyfádha–Vouliagméni–Várkiza). The new coastal tram line should also start run-
Glou Exclusive
Koloktróni 9, Kifissiá. In the very
heart of the Kifissiá shopping
area, this Greek men’s fashion
chain is reasonably priced, though
the Exclusive bit of the name
indicates that it’s only the upper
end of their range on offer here.
Kaloyirou
Panayítsas 5, Kifissiá; Kkprou 72, Platía
Espéridhon, Glyfádha. Long-
established designer shoe store
(also with branches downtown).
Men’s and women’s ranges, from
Prada to Miu Miu, are stocked.
Li-La-Lo
Grigoríou Lambráki 16, cnr Angélou
VOULIAGMÉNI
Metáxa, Glyfádha. Big, glitzy jewellery
store specializing in silver.
Shops Preview
Central Prince Oliver Panayítsas 6, Kifissiá. Designer
Angélou Metáxa 23, Glyfádha. footwear – good range of lesser-
Upscale designer gear, known brands, though still
predominantly for men. expensive.
Ensayar
Angélou Metáxa 22 & 24–26, Glyfádha.
Men’s and women’s fashion in
Cafés
two shops (one apiece) from Ammonites Café-Restaurant
designer names such as Dolce Othónos 100, in the Gaia Centré
and Gabanna, and Voyage.This Goulandhrís Museum complex, Kifissiá.
street is lined with similar, if less Relaxed and luxurious, but the
glitzy, places.
Gallé
Kolokotróni 10, Kifissiá. Fashion
store with clothing, accessories
and shoes from the likes of Paul
Smith and Givenchy as well as
local designers. Marginally easier
on the wallet than neighbours
like Gucci and Kenzo.
KIFISSÍA
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130
sandwiches and light meals here food and atmosphere, with belly
come with a hefty price tag. dancers on Saturday nights.
says it all – come here to see t210 72 22 235. Closed Sun. Handily
and be seen while lingering situated right at the top of
over your cappuccino freddo or Kessarianí on the main road, this
salad lunch. German-themed places serves
Schnitzels, sausages and Bavarian
MoBi specialities, best sampled on a
Adhrianoú cnr Dhragoúmi, Kifissiá. variety plate.
Right opposite the metro
station, this is a handy place to Buffalo Bill
stop for a quick coffee and a Kkprou 13, Glyfádha t210 89 43 128.
sandwich. Eves only, plus Sun lunchtime; closed
Sun July–Aug. Get into the
Varsos Glyfádha mood at this lively,
Kassavéti 5, Kifissiá. This old- mid-priced Tex-Mex joint.As
fashioned patisserie specializing in you’d expect, there are steaks and
home-made yogurts, jams and chilli on offer, plus margaritas by
sticky cakes is a Kifissiá landmark, the jugful.
acting as a meeting place for the
whole neighbourhood. Dos Hermanos
Kyriazí 24, Kifissiá t210 80 17 337.
Closed Mon. Good Mexican food
Restaurants and tasty margaritas in a lively,
late-opening bar-restaurant,
Akhinós though with expensive Kifissiá
Aktí Themistokléous 51, Pireás t210 45 prices.
26 944. Wonderful seafood and
traditional Greek specialities Hard Rock Cafe
served on a covered terrace Etolikoú 28 cnr Papastrátou, Pireás
overlooking a small beach just t210 41 36 750. Burgers and beers
round the corner from the Naval in what seems an unusual
Museum. Pricey if you go for the location for a branch of the
fish, but less so than harbourfront international chain. In fact, this
alternatives. Book at weekends. industrial district behind the port
is becoming something of a
Akti nightlife hot spot, and this is the
Possidhónos 6, Vouliagméni t210 89 place to go before moving on to
60 448. Taverna right by the sea the clubs.
serving simple, fresh seafood. As
ever, fish is expensive but then Island
so is Vouliagméni and by those Limanakia Vouliagménis, km27 on
standards, Akti is good value. Athens-Soúnio road between
Waterfront tables are in great Vouliagméni and Várkiza t210 96 53
demand, so booking is essential. 563. Summer eves only. The place to
be seen, this bar-restaurant has a
Al Mawal magnificent view (if you get a
Marangoú 18, Glyfádha t210 89 44 table at the front), simple island
227. The best-value Lebanese decor, and an international menu
restaurant in Glyfádha – authentic at international prices. It serves
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131
over Greece and smart, modern
decor make this a typical Kifissiá
hangout. It’s better value than
most, though, and often has
music on Friday and Saturday
Iy Orea Mykonos
Kilkís cnr Sfakión, Kastella, Pireás.
The hill above Mikrolímano has
great views and many
restaurants popular with locals.
This simple island-style fish
taverna, near the open-air
theatre, is one of the best, and
significantly cheaper than the
same fare on the waterfront.
MIKROLÍMANO, PIREÁS
Sotis
everything from sushi to steak, Konstantinoupóleos 9, Glyfádha t210
plus fine wines, and you’ll need 89 42 268. Greek taverna
to book. standards at reasonable prices in
this elegantly decorated place
Jimmy and the Fish right at the heart of Glyfádha’s
Aktí Koumoundhoúrou 46, Mikrolímano, restaurant strip, just off the main
Pireás t210 41 24 417. Excellent, square.
glamorous and inevitably
expensive fish taverna occupying TGI Fridays
the prime position among the Koloktróni 35, Platía Kefalaríou, Kifissiá
harbourside places on t210 62 33 947. Archetypal
Mikrolímano. Booking essential Kifissiá: burgers, ribs and mobile
at weekends. phones all round, but
considerably classier than the
Katsarina average branch of this chain.
Kifissías 311, Kifissiá t210 62 54 072.
Closed Wed. Excellent at the basics Time
– grilled meat and plain Greek Skouzé 14, Pireás t210 42 85 937.
dishes.There’s something of a The cosmopolitan nature of
crowd of (mainly Greek) Pireás is very much in evidence
restaurants on this stretch of here: this authentic, inexpensive
Leofóros Kifissías, about 700m Indo-Pakistani restaurant caters
north of Platía Platánou. largely to locals, in the midst of
a small ethnic and red-light
Masa quarter.
Ethnikís Andístasis 240, Kessarianí
t210 72 36 177. Closed Mon. Trata
Straightforward, inexpensive Platía Anayeníseos 7–9, Kessarianí
Greek taverna with good, simple t210 72 91 533. Closed Aug. Well-
food and barrel wines. known fish restaurant on a
square with several tavernas just
Monippo off Ethnikís Andístasis. Fish is
Dhrosíni 12, Kifissiá t210 62 31 440. always pricey in Athens, but this
Wide range of mezédhes from all is good value.
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132
Vincenzo Sussex Inn
Yiannitsopoúlou 1, Platía Espéridhon, Dhousmáni 8–10, Glyfádha t210 89
Glyfádha t210 89 41 310. Fine, 41 736. An English Pub right in
reasonably priced Italian fare, the heart of Glyfádha – with
including excellent pizzas from dartboard, rock music, Caffrey’s
Suburban Athens PLACES
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133
Attica
Attica (Attikí), the region encompassing the capital, is
not much explored by tourists – only the great romantic
PLACES Attica
ruin of the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Soúnio is well-
known. Yet a trip out here makes for a pleasant break,
with much of Greece in microcosm to be seen within an
hour or two of the capital. There’s mountainside at
Párnitha, rewarding archeological sites in Brauron and
Ramnous, and, if the heat is getting to you, plenty of
beaches too. Combine a couple of these with a meal at
one of the scores of seaside psarotavernas (fish restau-
rants), always packed out on summer weekends, and
you’ve got a more than worthwhile day out.
Attica transport
Soúnio buses depart on the hour and half-hour from the KTEL terminal on
Mavrommatéon at the southwest corner of the Pedhíon Áreos Park; there’s also a
more central (but in summer, very full) stop ten minutes later on Filellínon, south
of Skndagma at the corner of Xenofóndos. There are both coastal (paraliakó) and
inland (mesoyiakó) services, the latter slightly longer and more expensive. The
coast route normally takes around two hours; last departures back to Athens are
posted at the Soúnio stop.
There are frequent buses to Rafína (40min) and several a day to Marathónas
(many via the beaches at Skhiniás), Loútsa and Pórto Ráfti (Pórto Ráfti buses
sometimes give the final destination as Avláki).
For Vravróna it’s easiest to go to Loútsa, and then transfer to the local bus that
plies up and down the coast road: this bus stops right outside the site (look for the
Club Med, directly opposite) and terminates just beyond. Ramnous is not realisti-
cally accessible by public transport, though you should get a lift for the final few kilo-
metres if you take a bus to Ayía Marína (several daily) and hitch from the junction.
Buses to Párnitha run from Platía Váthis twice daily, at 6.30am (6.40am week-
ends) and 2.30pm, with extra services on Sunday at 8am and 3.40pm. Buses to
Fylí also leave from Platía Váthis.
For Eleusis take bus #A16 from Platía Eleftherías, on Pireós. Ask to be dropped at
the “Heroön” (Sanctuary), to the left of the main road, a short way into Elefsína. A
trip to Eleusis is easily combined with Dhafní (p.123), which you pass on the way.
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PLACES 134
CAPE SOÚNIO
0 10 km Malakássa Ramnous
Límni
Áyia Triádha Marathóna
Skípiza Áy. Marina
Évvia
Palíni
tro
Salamína Dhafní
Loútsa
Me
Pérama
Peanía
Spáta Vravróna
Pireás ATHENS Kessarianí (Brauron)
M Eleftherios Venìzelos
Imittós E
Salamína Airport
The Cyclades
S
Pórto Ráfti
O
Markópoulo
Y
Glyfádha
ÍA
Voúla
Kavoúri Várkiza
Vouliagméni
Lagoníssi
Póros, Ídhra & Spétses
N
Kéa & K/thnos
Égina
Anávissos
sos
Ay. Marina
rónis
Égina Lávrio
Mak
Soúnio
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135
village of Marathónas, 42km
from Athens. Here, in 490 BC, a
force of 9000 Athenians and
1000 of their Plataian allies
defeated a Persian army 25,000
PLACES Attica
strong. After the victory a
runner was sent to Athens to
declare the news: having run the
first marathon, he delivered his
message and dropped dead.
Just 192 Athenians died in the
battle (compared to some 6000
Persians), and the burial mound
where they were laid, the
Tbmvos Marathóna
FERRY, RAFÍNA
(Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm; e3),
can still be seen, off the road
jaded Athenians.The main route between Rafína and
out of the city heads straight for Marathónas. Consisting only of
the little port of Rafína, from overgrown earth piled ten
where you can head off to metres high, now rather
numerous islands, including overgrown and neglected, it is a
nearby Évvia. Boats aside, the quietly impressive monument.
appeal of the place is mainly The Mound of the Plataians,
gastronomic: the little fishing where the eleven Plataians
harbour’s line of roof-terrace (including a ten-year-old boy)
seafood restaurants is one of the who died were laid to rest, is
most inviting spots on Attica’s about 5km away near the edge
coast, with views of the comings of the mountain; there’s also an
and goings of the port a free archeological museum here
extra. (Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm; e3),
There are local beaches in easy with a sparse collection of
walking distance, and others, all artefacts, mainly from the local
with more seafront dining, Cave of Pan, a deity felt to have
further away along the coast.To aided the victory.
the north, en route to Marathon Marathónas village itself has
or Ramnous, Néa Mákri lies at plenty of places to eat, but there
the heart of a string of small are many more attractive options
beach developments. South, if you head for the coast.
there’s continual development
down through Loútsa to Skhiniás
Vravróna (p.136). Pórto Ráfti, Skhiniás, a long, pine-backed
just beyond, is more attractive, strand with shallow water, is one
with a scattering of popular of the best free beaches within
waterfront restaurants and, in easy reach of Athens. Big
summer, a thriving nightlife enough to allow some chance of
scene. escaping the crowds, its
southern parts are relatively
Marathon developed, with a number of
The site of the most famous and cordoned-off pay-beach sections
arguably most important and beach clubs offering
military victory in Athenian showers, umbrellas and
history is not far from the watersports. Further north
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136
there’s far less development Vravróna
apart from scattered tavernas on Site & museum summer Mon
the sand. 12.30–7pm, Tues–Sun 8am–7pm;
winter Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm. e3.
Ramnous Ancient Vravróna, also known as
Attica PLACES
RAMNOUS
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137
and multicoloured paint
splodges on the trees).The
principal ones are the approach
to the Báfi refuge up the Hoúni
ravine, and the walk to the
PLACES Attica
Skípiza spring. Another highly
evocative spot for lovers of
classical ghosts is the Cave of
Pan, which Menander used as
the setting for one of his plays.
The best approach is by track
and trail from the chapel of Ayía
Triádha, 2.3km west of the top
station of the Mount Párnitha
télephérique. A topographical
map showing local landmarks
(labelled in Greek) is posted just
behind the church.
FORTRESS AT PHYLE
The mountain is also home to
the ruined but still impressive
early in the morning and late at fourth-century-BC Athenian fort
night with birdsong and the of Phyle, about an hour and
croaking of frogs.The site three-quarters on foot beyond
museum lies down here, a the village of Fylí (known locally
good 2km away by road.Various as Khasiá) via the restored
finds from the sanctuary are fourteenth-century monastery
displayed, including some of Klistón. Fylí itself is a
marble heads modelled after the popular country culinary outing
little girls, and bear-masks. for Athenians with lots of family-
style tavernas and restaurants.
Mount Párnitha and Phyle Note that roads on Párnitha
Scarcely an hour’s bus ride from are notoriously bereft of
Athens’ city centre, Mount signposts – so if you’re driving,
Párnitha is an unexpectedly vast Road Editions’ 1:50,000
and virgin tract of forest, rock Párnitha map is highly
and ravine. It will give you a recommended.
taste of what Greek mountains
are all about, including a good Eleusis (Elefsína)
selection of mountain flowers. Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm. e3. The
The trip is especially Sanctuary of Demeter at
worthwhile in March or April, Eleusis, on the edge of the
when snow lies surprisingly late modern town of Elefsína, at the
on the north side and, in its beginning of the Sacred Way to
wake, carpets of crocus, alpine Athens, was one of the most
squills and mountain windflower important in the ancient Greek
spring from the mossy ground, world. For two millennia, the
while lower down you’ll find ritual ceremonies known as the
aubretia, tulips, dwarf iris and a Mysteries were performed here.
whole range of orchids. Much The ruins of the sanctuary,
of the mountain is now a however, though extensive, date
National Park, and there are from several different ages of
numerous waymarked paths on rebuilding and are largely
the mountain (look for red discs reduced to foundations. It’s hard
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138
The Mysteries of Eleusis
The ancient Mysteries had an effect on their initiates equal to that of any modern
cult. According to Pindar, who experienced the rites in Classical times and, like all
others, was bound on pain of death not to reveal their content, anyone who has
“seen the holy things [at Eleusis] and goes in death beneath the earth is happy,
Attica PLACES
for he knows life’s end and he knows the new divine beginning.”
Established in Mycenaean times, perhaps as early as 1500 BC, the cult centred
around the figure of Demeter, the goddess of corn, and the myth of her daughter
Persephone’s annual descent into and resurrection from the underworld, which
came to symbolize the rebirth of the crops (and the gods responsible for them) and
the miracle of fertility.
By the fifth century BC the cult had developed into a sophisticated annual fes-
tival, attracting up to 30,000 people from all over the Greek world. Participants
gathered in Athens, outside the Propylaia on the Acropolis, and, after various ritu-
als, including mass bathing and purification in the sea at Fáliro, followed the
Sacred Way to the sanctuary here at Eleusis. One theory suggests that one of the
rituals entailed drinking a potion containing grain-ergot fungus, producing similar
effects to those of modern psychedelic drugs. The Mysteries survived well into the
Christian era, but eventually fell victim to the new orthodoxy.
Farangi
Leofóros Fylís, Fylí t210 24 11 475.
Moderately priced, hearty grills
and mezédhes are the order of
the day here.
ELEUSIS
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139
Ioakeim Rombolo
Limáni, Rafína t229 40 23 421. One Leofóros Marathónos, a little way out of
of the better harbour tavernas, Rafína on the way to Marathon t229
with prices that reflect this, 40 32 900. Closed eves & Mon. This
Ioakeim has been around for over mid-range, family-style
PLACES Attica
fifty years. Fish features in the restaurant has live music on
main, but try the wild leaf salads Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
or seaweed in season; there’s also
excellent pickled octopus. Sta Kala Kathoumena
Vasiléos Georgíou 8, Rafína t229 40
Kali Kardia 25 688. The moderately priced
Just behind the Town Hall, Kostí Palamá dishes show a marked home-
12, Rafína t229 40 23 856. Mon–Thurs cooking bent and include
eves only, Fri, Sat & Sun all day. The Constantinopolitan dishes such
inexpensive Kali Kardia specializes as gardhoúmbes (entrail sausages)
in grills, with excellent beef and pastourmadhélia (smoked and
patties and spare ribs. spiced meat wedges).
Kavouri Syrtaki
Perikléous 24, Paralía Marathóna Soúnio t229 20 39 125. Close to
t22940 55243. Mainly fish, with the ancient site and with a
a smattering of moderately stunning view, this simple
priced grilled meats and various taverna serves traditional dishes
mezédhes. in which fish features
predominantly.
Psarotaverna Paradhosiako
Paralía, Lávrio t229 20 60 841. Tria Adhelfia
Right on the waterfront, the Paralía Marathóna t229 40 56 461. A
excellent fish served here comes decent waterside taverna on the
straight from the boats – though beach at Marathon, with
as ever, it’s not cheap. middling prices.
Psaropoula-Bibikos Vrakha
Leofóros Avlakíou 118, Pórto Ráfti t229 Leofóros Plákas 99, Lávrio t229 20
90 71 292. A good fish taverna, 27 745. A good, inexpensive
also serving grilled meats and a place to sample suckling pig and
few mayireftá dishes, at prices that lamb cooked in vine leaves, or a
won’t break the bank. wide range of mayireftá.
TAVERNA, LÁVRIO Xypolitos
25th Martíou & Georgíou Papadópoulou
1, Loútsa t229 40 28 342. Mon–Fri
eves only, Sat & Sun all day. Xypolitos
is one of the oldest and best fish
tavernas along the coast,
although it’s a little pricey.
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140
Further afield
With the use of a hire car or by taking one of many tours
available out of Athens, you can visit a wealth of sites
Further afield PLACES
Mt Parnassós
Delphi Aráhova
N
Dhelfí
Itéa
Livadhiá
Galaxídhi
Thíva
Gulf of Corinth
hiakoftó
Pórto
Akráta Yermenó
Dhervéni
Spíleo
Perahóra
Xylókastro Elefsína
Sólos● Kiáto Mégara ATHENS
ELMÓS Loutráki
KYLLÍNI
f Kórinthos
kes
Pireás
● Feneós K O R INTHÍA Salamína
Kastariá Corinth
Kartéri Lake
Stymfalía
Égina
Mycenae
Fíkhti ARGOLÍDHA Angístri Skála Ayía Marína
Égina
Paleá Epídhavros
ÉNALO Árgos
Lygourió
Epidauros Méthana
Tir yns
HÍA
Trípoli Náfplio Póros Póros
TolóKastráki
Parálio Ástros Galatás
Ermióni
Ástros Kranídhi Ídhra
Áyios Andhréas Pórto Héli Ídhra
Kósta
Paralía Tyroú Spétses
0 20 km
Leonídhi
Pláka
PÁ
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THOLOS, DELPHI
141
ideally at the beginning or end
of the day, or (in winter) at
lunchtime, to escape the crowds.
The Sacred Precinct
contains most of the sights –
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142
The Delphic Oracle
The origins of the Delphic Oracle are uncertain but it was believed by the ancients
that the first oracle established on this spot was dedicated to Gea (Mother Earth)
and to Poseidon (the Earth Shaker). Subsequently the serpent Python, son of Gea,
was installed in a nearby cave, and communication made through the Pythian
Further afield PLACES
priestess. Python was later slain by Apollo, whose cult had been imported from
Crete. Legend has it that he arrived in the form of a dolphin – hence the name
Delphoi.
For over a thousand years thereafter, a steady stream of pilgrims made its way
up the dangerous mountain paths to Delphi in order seek divine direction in mat-
ters of war, worship, love or business. On arrival they would sacrifice a sheep or
a goat and, depending on the omens, wait to submit questions inscribed on lead
tablets. The Pythian priestess, a simple and devout village woman of fifty or more
years in age, would chant her prophecies from a tripod positioned over the orac-
ular chasm.
Many of the oracular answers were equivocal. Croesus, for example, was told
that if he embarked on war against neighbouring Persia he would destroy a mighty
empire; he did – his own. But it’s hard to imagine that the oracle would have
retained its popularity and influence for so long without offering predominantly
sound advice.
One theory suggests that the prophetic inspiration of the Oracle was due to geo-
logic phenomena. The oracle may have been deliberately sited over a geological
or earthquake fault line that emitted trance-inducing gases such as methane or
ethane, which could have produced the kind of trances and behaviour described
by ancient witnesses of the Pythian priestesses.
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143
Theatre
Temenos of
Stage Poseidon
ay
Sacred W Altar of
Apollo
Sacred Way
Temple of Apollo
Terrace
Polygonal
Wall
Sanctuary of Gea Athenian Stoa
Bouleuterion ay
dW
cre
Sa
Treasury of
the Athenians
Monument of
the Admirals
Theban Treasury
Sacred
Siphnian Treasury Way
Main Entrance
Sikyonian Treasury
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144
own transport you could drive overlooking the Saronic and
up the mountain from Aráhova Corinthian gulfs, you really get
on the south, or from Lílea, a sense of its strategic
Poladhrosos or Amfília on the importance. Amid the extensive
north slope, any of which can remains, you wander through a
Further afield PLACES
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145
Náfplio
A lively, beautifully
sited town, Náfplio
exudes a grand, slightly
faded elegance,
PLACES
inherited from the days
when it was the
fledgling capital of
modern Greece in the
early nineteenth
Further afield
century.The postcard-
pretty old town, with
EPIDAUROS
its paved and mostly
pedestrianized streets, has an
of medical skills and cures used abundance of colourful and
at the Asklepion; there are tastefully decorated restaurants
tablets recording miraculous and handicraft shops, and there’s
cures alongside advanced- a pleasant buzz that you don’t
looking surgical instruments. often witness in Greek towns.
For the fit, the climb up to the
twin fortresses of Palamídhi
EPIDAURUS (EPÍDHAVROS)
N
Abaton
Temple of
Asklepios
Tholos Sanctuary of
Egyptian Gods
Asklepian Sanctuary
Stadium
Odeion
Gymnasium
Greek Baths
Parking
Museum
Hotel Xenia
0 100 m Ancient
Theatre
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146
(daily: summer 8am–7pm; surrounded by citrus groves,
winter 8am–6.30pm; e4), out alongside a large modern
on the headland and prison.The setting is less
overlooking the old town, is impressive than that of its showy
well worth the effort.The neighbour Mycenae, which in
Further afield PLACES
town’s third fort, the stunning part explains why this highly
Boúrtzi, occupies the Ayíou accessible, substantial site is
Theodhórou islet offshore from relatively empty of visitors; the
the harbour, and was built in opportunity to wander about
1473 by the Venetians to control Homer’s “wall-girt Tiryns” in
the shipping lane to the town near-solitude is worth taking.
and to much of Árgos bay. The site lies just to the east of
Café life – swelled at the main Árgos–Náfplio road,
weekends by crowds of visiting and frequent local buses drop off
Athenians – reaches the heights and pick up passengers outside.
of urban chic in the well-
patronized cafés lining the Mycenae
palm-tree fringed western Tucked into a fold of the hills
seafront of Bouboulínas.Things just east of the road from
are quieter on Platía Kórinthos to Árgos, the citadel
Syndágmatos, where places stay at Mycenae (Mykínes) (daily:
open late. summer 8am–7pm; winter
You can get to Náfplio by bus 8.30am–3pm; e6) bears
or – much slower but much testament above all to the
more attractive – by twice-daily obsession of the German
train. Both bus and train stations archeologist Heinrich
are within a 500m walk of the Schliemann (who also excavated
old town precinct. the site of Troy) with proving
that the tales of Homer had
Tiryns their basis in fact.
Daily: summer 8am–7pm; winter The extensive site is made up
8.30am–3pm. e3. In Mycenaean of two parts – the citadel itself
times the ancient fortress of and the Treasury of Atreus.The
Tiryns (Tíryntha) commanded most visually arresting part of
the coastal approaches to Árgos the citadel is the Lion Gate,
and Mycenae.The Aegean whose huge sloping gateposts
shore, however, gradually and walls were considered
receded, leaving this impressive Cyclopean by later Greeks, who
structure stranded on a low could only imagine that a
hillock in today’s plains, Cyclops could have constructed
them. Beyond the
Lion Gate is an
impressive Grave
Circle known as
“A” and originally
thought by
Schliemann to be
the actual tomb of
Agamemnon. It
was here that the
famous gold death
mask (see p.10) was
found in 1876.The
TIRYNS
Contents Places
147
Entrance
Grave Gate Tomb of
■ ■
ANCIENT MYCENAE
■
■
■
Circle B Aegisthus
■
■
■
■
■
■ ■
■
■ ■ Postern
■
■ ■
Lion Gate Royal
■
Gate
■
■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
■
Palace
■ ■ ■
■
■
■
T H E C I TA D E L
■
■ Bastion
Throne
■
▲▲▲
■
■
Room
■
South
■
■
■ ■
House Great Megaron House of
▲▲▲
▲
■
■
■ ■ Columns
■
Court
▲▲
■
■ ▲▲▲ ▲ ▲
■
■
■ N
■
▲
Merchants’ ▲
■
▲
■ ■
▲▲
▲▲▲ ▲ ▲
Houses ■
▲▲▲▲
■
■
■
Treasury of
Atreus LOWER CITY
(Tomb of ▲▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲▲▲
Agamemnon) P
▲▲▲
Entrance Gate 0 50 m
▲
▲▲
Contents Places
Further afield PLACES 148
Contents Places
149
specific to seek out, although most of them built during the
the hilltop clocktower and eighteenth century on the
small, well-labelled archeological accumulated wealth of a
museum (Mon–Sat remarkable merchant fleet, were
8.30am–3pm; free) are worth a designed by Venetian and
PÓROS HARBOUR
Contents Places
150
Restaurants Karathanasis
Aráhova t226 70 31 360. Filling
Agora soups in the cooler months,
Behind Égina Town’s fish market on alongside draft wine and assorted
Panayioti Irioti 28, Égina t 229 70 27 meat dishes year round and roof-
Further afield PLACES
Contents Places
151
grills, fish and mezedes as well as dishes) and the fried calamari is
a relaxing location. also well done.
Oasis Vasilis
Póros t229 80 22 955. One of the Staïkopoúlou 20–24, Náfplio t 275 20
Panagiota Vakchos
Aráhova t226 70 32 735. A Apollonos 31, Dhelfí t 226 50 83 250.
friendly, family-style taverna One of the better quality
high above Aráhova, with fine, establishments in a village not
good-value lamb dishes, home- particularly well known for
baked bread and rich chicken great eateries.The view from
soup. this family place is quite
stunning, and the food is good-
Taverna Parnassos quality traditional fare that’s
Metókhi, Angístri. It’s worth the walk reasonable value for your euros.
up the hill for the views and the
good food here. Dine on mayireftá Xeri Elia
and enjoy the relaxing view down Ídhra t229 80 52 886. A cosy and
towards Skála. relatively inexpensive fish
taverna in an old stone house
Platanos that puts an inventive twist on
Póros t229 80 24 249. High up filling mayireftá dishes.
overlooking Póros port from a
little square hosting a clutch of Yambeia
less obvious tavernas, Platanos Aráhova t226 70 32 730.
specializes in meat dishes, and Moderate-value bar-restaurant
you can dine in the shade of a on the main street of Aráhova,
large plane tree. operating as a café during the
morning.The dishes are Italian-
To Steki influenced dishes, and there’s a
Panayioti Irioti 34, Égina t 229 70 23 small wine list, attentive service
910. A small mezédhes place and pleasant ambience.
behind Égina Town’s fish
market, with inexpensive to Yeitoniko
moderate prices.The grilled Ídhra t229 80 53 615. This popular
octopus is particularly good. taverna, about 500m inland
from the port, has tables on its
I Taverna tou Stelara roof and a small veranda. Serves
Bouboulínas 73, Náfplio t275 20 28 great home cooking and the
818. A good spot for home- pasta and vegetarian dishes are
cooked ladherá (olive-oil-based excellent value.
Contents Places
152
Contents Places
Accommodation
Contents Accommodation
Accommodation
Contents Accommodation
155
Hotels
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
Prices for accommodation are sites; hotels here are also relatively
highly seasonal and in the lead- expensive, however, and may be
up to the Olympics well over noisy. Formerly gritty and sleazy
half the city’s hotels seemed to but rapidly being gentrified,
have been refurbished, raising Omónia’s bazaar area is the city
their rates accordingly.The prices at its most colourful, while nearby
quoted in this guide represent Thissío is rather smarter and
the hotel’s cheapest double room airier. For more night-time peace,
in high season; much of the year, and better value, though, there’s a
you’ll find rates are lower than lot to be said for heading for one
this. By law, every room has to of the quieter neighbourhoods a
display its official rates on the little further out. Koukáki and
back of the door: it is illegal for a Pangráti are attractive parts of
hotelier to charge more than the city, and though slightly out of
this, and you can normally the way – twenty minutes’ walk
expect to pay less. Most places from Sandagma or the heart of
have triple and even four-bed Pláka – compensate with excel-
rooms, which can be a significant lent neighbourhood tavernas and
saving for a family or group. cafés.Around Exárhia and Platía
Breakfast is included in the Viktorías, to the north of
price at the more expensive hotels Omónia, you are again out of the
and is almost always available at tourist mainstream, but benefit
extra cost if it’s not included; from good-value local restaurants
check what you’ll get, however, as and the proximity of cinemas,
the standard Greek hotel breakfast clubs and bars.
of a cup of weak coffee accompa-
nied by a piece of dry cake and Pláka
some jam is rarely worth paying Acropolis House Kódhrou 6 t210 32 22
for. Most of our recommendations 344, f210 32 44 143. Metro Slndagma.
will offer more than that – usually A very clean, well-sited 150-year-old man-
some form of bufffet. sion much favoured by students and aca-
The quarters of Pláka, demics, who return year after year.
Monastiráki and Sbndagma are Furnishings are eclectic and some rooms
atmospheric and within easy have private baths across the hall. Rates
walking distance of all the main include breakfast. e60.
Booking accommodation
Athens hotels can be packed in midsummer, especially August – yet for most of
the year there are enough beds in the city to go around, and to suit most wallets
and tastes. It makes sense to book in advance if possible, or to find a phone and
ring around on arrival, rather than walk the streets looking: almost every hotel and
hostel will have an English-speaking receptionist.
The best rates may well be offered on the Internet – type “Athens hotels” into
any search engine and you’ll come up with dozens of hotel search sites, often with
excellent-value special offers. If you do just set out and do the rounds, try to start
as early as possible in the day. Especially in the cheaper hotels, standards can
vary greatly between rooms, so try to see alternatives before you check in.
Contents Accommodation
156
1 (200m)
Larissa Victoria M
N
ALKAMENOUS
Station 2
ALKIVIADHOU
PLATIA FILAD HELF EIAS
AHARNON
LARISSIS IOULI PLATIA
VODHA
ANOU
LIO
AIGYPTOU
Hotels ACCOMMODATION
US M Larissa
N)
SIO
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ANOU
U
LAMBELET
ISSIO
N
NEOFY TOU METAX A
VRIO
IPIROU METS
IPIRO OVOU
MIHAÏL
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U
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Peloponnísou VA SI LE
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( PAT
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Station
NN I
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IS
PSAR
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National
OU
DH EL IY IA
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AND
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Athens Stock
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MEN
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RR
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National
AD
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Thissio
OU
AT H I
EP 14 15
M
LO T A HA
LK OU PLATIA
AT H I N A Ï
16 17
S < NDAG
THISSIOU DHOS
AD PLATIA Kapnikaréa PERIKLE
HR
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Flea Market MONASTIRAKI ERMOU 19 OUS
KHT HON OSERY
OU
Monastiraki M
AKTEOU
VA S
MO N ASTI R Á KI
PA
ILIS
Hadrian's N D H R O S
OS
Mitrópolis 21
Ancient
ARE
Library SOU
S NILEO Agora 22
PLATIA
VOULIS
S ONOS
NIKIS
AGORAS A D H A P O L L 26
TOS R IA
NO
M A N 23 24 25
INON
AKA Roman
U
APO
Forum U
NA VA RH O N IK OD HI M OU
DHIO NY
FILELL
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27 28 29
SI
LOU
U A N A F IÓTI K A 30
O
TR
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IP
IN I 31
PAV
TOU
OD
HO N
Areopagus PLATIA
LOU
L.
Acropolis FILOMOUSOU
S
Rock
OU
Hill of
32 P L ÁK A
LE
Acropolis
PROPYLEON
LI
EREKHTHI
MITSEO
Filopáppou
DH
OU
NIS
A
N
RA
Hill Monument UL
SO
RE
KO
PO
ME
OU
of Philopappos M
KO H
U
AR U
M
K O ITRA D
O ROS VOULIAG
KO 37 I N
36 A S I VE
VO
U A IM
T M DH
UR
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OU
KA
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VA
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IK LA
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HI
FO
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0 300 m ZA
M
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EO A L L
A
LEOF
T KO
41 V E I Syngrou–Fix M L K
U
F I LOPAP P O U
K
KOUKAKI
Z
Contents Accommodation
157
Pedhio ACCOMMODATION
Areos Lofos
GYZI
U LO M Finopoulou
Achilleas 17 John’s Place 22
GO
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
VA RD
U SAHIL OU Acropolis House 28 Kimon 25
ARE
BO
U
LEOFO LEOS PA
SOU
GA
Acropolis Select 38 Kouros 30
TA S I O
ROS A RASKHO
LOUK
LEXAN U LOM M O M
Acropolis ViewV A R D O 34
KALLI
Marble F E RHouse 41
AKI
RA
DHRA R AT O
SOUT
U U
LA S LOM
Adonis 29 Museum V A R D Best
ANAS
KI FO TI
LA
Y I O TA
VARV
A SI M A OU
LOU
O U VA
Á R EO S The Alassia 7 A H I L LWestern
EOS AVERO F 3
GYZI
NefeliPA R A S K H O U
PA N A
IANO
U PLATIA ARGENTINIS 21
Arethusa 27
KYRIL
IO U
VO
TIN
PI
BOUK
IOUS
UL
DIMOKRATIAS
Art Gallery 37P I Orion and Dryades 4
TR IK OU
ER IA S
IE RE M
PO U LH GA
U
Athenian CallirhoeI K O39 Pella Inn 14
RO
FA
Lófos tou Stréfi KT Athens Cypria U T R 19 Phaedra OU 32
NA
ON L I I P I
HO NO S
MOU
A KL
OU Attalos R I L A O M I H13 LAMB
RI
(Stréfis Hill) Philippos
AS ROU
K A T 35
OT
KA
AV
ON
LL
SP YR ID
M A Stratos Vassilikos
Cecil K R11NEAPOLEOS 20
PLATIA
ER
ID
S
GI O
ES
P
HR
PI Dorian Inn IP 10
U Student’s Inn 31
SO
U I O
OM
HO PI Erechthion I P 23 Tempi 15
U
KL
IARI
P L AT I A C U
DO KO ASDH
IO
EXARHION
ZO
O
TR
I Evropi A M A8S K Thisseus Hostel 16
U
I
6 N OThission
KON
I U
OU AL Exarchion KO SM 24
LA IH A M EL OD
E X ÁR HIA AR
I M Feron HO2U Villa Olympia 36
H RO S
M
AV OU Grande Bretagne 18 YHA Victor Hugo 5
AT Hermes 26 Youth Hostel 5 40
TZA
ER
O KR U
O
ES
N EÁ PO LI
AR
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KL
SO
AH
LA
AS
U
I
OV
UP
DH
O PA Lykavitós
IS
TR
ID
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RI
TR IAR Theatre
NA
HO
K O N IA
HO
VA
TO
UF
OU
SO
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RI
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NO
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LO
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AP
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NO
Hill
NT
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S
IO
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Funicular N
HE
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LI Theatrical N
RS
SA
SK Railway HI US
A AT
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Museum HA TO
H O ÏD RA
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SK
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AD
MA A PLATIA
OU
N
HIM
SI LYKAVITTOU U
FA
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PPO Yennádhion
MA
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STI
FO
Academy
DEXAMENI ARI Library
KY
RAS
PLATIA
of Science OUS
LID
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M
TO OKR
HO
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LI
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NO
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PLATIA ILA
LI
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PLATIA
S < NDAGM A N
N
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NDO
U
VASILI IPS
SSIS S
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LE
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Goulandhrís VA S IL
OF LEX
(1km)
VA H R O
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RIYILLIS
DH
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ILE
N
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National O ANDINO
S
RK OU RI
K ROS
Presidential S
Gardens
IS
Palace LEOFOROS EO
RIZ
ISS
VASSILEOS L
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SP YR OU ME
SS IOU B
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PLATIA
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ILIS Gardens
AT
FO
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S
OS
IS ST RA VO NO
RM
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TH
PLATIA
I
AS
U
Pangratiou
EN
P R AT I N O U
STADHIOU
ZIN ODH OTO
IPPODH
OU
PLATIA
SP YR OU
S
MESOLON–
Panathenaic GIOU
U PLATIA
TO Ardhittós Stadium PLASTIRA U
DIT TO
MAR
PLATIA EVTYHID
AR PI G
A Hill PAGKRATIOU HOU
IT
EF
M. IM
KOU
FR
US
PROKLOU
VRYAX IDH OS
S
HO P RROF I TI S
FR
M ETS EO
AN
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AN
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OR
STR
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ON AR HI AM IL LI A S
IS
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KH
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U U
VO
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NIO OU
OU
SOU
YE AN PARMENIDO
SE
MELISSO PLATIA
NI U
ON
EV U
DH
PLATIA
ROU
TR S 40
ID
IK
U
IF
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DOM
VARNAVA
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HO
S O
IK
NO I OL
First Cemetery S T AR FIL
RA
RH
O
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BOL
ILP AM
of Athens ST PRO FITIS
OU
D M H
E I D
I
DH
AL
Contents Accommodation
158
Adonis Kódhrou 3 t210 32 49 737, Monastiráki and
f210 32 31 602. Metro Slndagma. A
modern, low-rise pension across the street Psyrrí
Hotels ACCOMMODATION
Contents Accommodation
159
Thisseus Hostel Thisséos 10 t210 32 Cecil Athinás 39 t210 32 17 079,
45 960. Metro Slndagma. You don’t get wwww.cecil.gr. Metro Monastiráki.
much more central than this – three blocks Loving restoration of a run-down pension
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
west of Sjndagma – nor much cheaper. No has re-created the charm of the 150-year-
frills, but clean enough, and with a kitchen old mansion; attractively decorated rooms
for guests’ use, and some three- and four- are larger than average and all have a/c.
bed dorms. e30. The location in the heart of the market dis-
trict, gracious management, roof garden
and hearty breakfast with Cretan jams and
Thissío, Gázi and Áno yogurt make this a delight. e95.
Petrálona Dorian Inn Pireós 15-17, Omónia t210
523 9782, wwww.greekhotel
Erechthion Flammaríou 8 t210 34 59
.com/athens/dorianinn. Metro Omónia.
606, f210 34 62 756. Metro Thissío. A
Very close to Platía Omonías and handy for
reasonable mid-range option in this lively
the Acropolis, this is a bustling hotel popular
area behind the Acropolis. All rooms have
with both business visitors and tourists. The
a/c and TV. E95.
rooftop garden boasts a pool and excellent
Thission Apostólou Pávlou 25 t210 34
views. e160.
67 634, f210 34 62 756. Metro Thissío.
Evropi Satovriándhou 7 t210 52 23
Somewhat better value than the nearby
081. Metro Omónia. Very basic old-
Erechthion, this friendly place has a/c and
fashioned hotel with spacious rooms, made
TV in all rooms, and fine views from the roof
even cooler by ceiling fans. Best-value sin-
terrace. e100.
gles in town and reasonably quiet, despite
being only a block from Platía Omonías.
Platía Omonías and e35.
Feron Férron 43, Platía Viktorías t210
around 82 32 083. Metro Viktorías. A small, sim-
Attalos Athinás 29 t210 32 12 801, ple hotel with cheerful staff and en-suite
wwww.attalos.gr. Metro Monastiráki. baths in all rooms. Very good value. e80.
Modern hotel with clean, comfortable Zinon Keramikoú 3 and Zínonos t210 52
rooms with a/c and TV, friendly manage- 45 711, wwww.bestwestern.com. Metro
ment and great Acropolis views from the Omónia. A comfortable, reasonably priced,
rooftop bar. e80. three-star Best Western hotel just off Platía
The Alassia Sokrátous 50, Omónia t210 Omonías. Good-sized rooms have been
52 74 000, wwww.the recently renovated, and come with satellite
alassia.com.gr. Metro Omónia. Renovated TV and a complimentary bottle of wine. e95.
in 2002, the Alassia is a pleasant find in
what is still a rather undeveloped accommo-
dation area. Its designer decor is apparent
Exárhia and Neápoli
as soon as you enter the lobby. Rooms are Exarchion Themistokléous 55, Platía
on the small side, but are elegant and well Exárhia t210 38 01 256, f210 38 03
sound-insulated. Good value for money. 296. Metro Omónia. Big 1960s high-rise
e120. hotel, with an excellent location right on the
Hostel Aphrodite Inárdhou 12, cnr square – though this means the rooms on
Mikhaïl Vódha 65 t210 88 39 249, the lower floors can be noisy. e100.
wwww.hostelaphrodite.com. Metro Museum Best Western Bouboulínas 16
Viktorías. Under the same management as t210 38 05 611, wwww.bestwestern
the Student’s Inn in Pláka, and a very simi- .com. Metro Omónia. Recently taken over
lar set-up. Friendly and clean, with a/c and by the Best Western group and upgraded to
hot water in shared bathrooms, safe, free its international standards, this nicely placed
baggage storage and Internet access. hotel is at the end of the green strip sepa-
Dorms e17, bed in two-bed dorm e23, rating the National Archeological Museum
rooms e40. and the Polytekhnío. e110.
Contents Accommodation
160
Orion and Dryades Anexartisías 5 t210 at the Grande Bretagne, the grandest of all
36 27 362, eorion-dryades@mail.com. Athens’ hotels with the finest location in
Metro Omónia. Quiet, well-run twin hotels town. Recently refurbished, it really is mag-
Hotels ACCOMMODATION
across from the Lófos Stréfi park – a steep nificent, with every conceivable facility.
uphill walk. Reception is in the cheaper Treatments in the spa cost more than a
Orion, which has shared bathrooms, a night at most hotels – rooms are over e300
kitchen, and communal area on the roof even for an off-season special offer. e400.
with an amazing view of central Athens. All
rooms in the Dryades are en suite with a/c
and TV. e110.
Mets, Pangráti and
Koukáki
Kolonáki & Lykavitós Acropolis Select Falírou 37–39 t210 92
11 611, wwww.acropoliselect.gr. Metro
Hill Syngroú-Fix. An excellent, tastefully renovat-
St George Lycabettus Kleoménous 2, ed boutique hotel within ten minutes’ walk of
Kolonáki t210 729 0711, wwww the Acropolis. Pastel and earthy shades char-
.sglycabettus.gr. Metro Evangelismós. acterize the welcoming rooms, which have
One of the classic five-star hotels in Athens, individually controlled a/c, satellite TV and
the St George has one of the best locations, modem ports. e125.
high up on Lykavitos hill overlooking Acropolis View Webster 10, Koukáki
Sjndagma and the Acropolis. Tasetfully done t210 92 17 303, wwww.acropolisview
up in boutique-hotel style, there’s abundant .gr. Metro Akrópoli. A well-maintained
marble and leather in the public areas plus a small hotel on a quiet residential street
welcome rooftop pool. e145 for courtyard whose front rooms with balconies and roof
view, e220 looking out on the Acropolis. garden live up to its name. All rooms have
Stratos Vassilikos Michalakópoulou a/c, TV and fridge, an ample breakfast is
114, Ilísia t210 77 06 611, wwww included and the lobby sports a friendly bar.
.airotel.gr. Metro Mégaro Moussikís. e130.
Predominantly a business hotel, but very Art Gallery Erekhthíou 5, Koukáki t210
comfortable, newly renovated and with all 92 38 376, ecotes@otenet.gr. Metro
the facilities you’d expect, including TV and Syngroú-Fix. A mansion that was formerly
Internet in the rooms, marble bathrooms, the home of a member of the owner’s fami-
and even a tiny gym. Good metro and bus ly, this popular pension is named for the
connections from its location near the US original artworks on the walls. Rooms are
embassy. e170. plain, but the place is distinguished by
knowledgeable and helpful staff, a conven-
ient location just a short walk from the
Sondagma and metro, and a bountiful breakfast (at extra
cost) served on a sunny terrace with
around Acropolis view. e70.
Arethusa Mitropóleos 6–8 and Níkis 12 Athenian Callirhoe Kalliróis 32, cnr
t210 32 29 431, earethusa@ Petmeza t210 92 15 353, wwww.tac.gr.
travelling.gr. Metro Slndagma. This mod- Metro Syngroú-Fix. Situated between
ern, quiet hotel with a/c and TV in each Koukáki and the centre, the Callirhoe was
room caters to independent travellers and made over a couple of years back as an
small groups. The reception staff are helpful upmarket “designer” hotel. It’s already start-
and enthusiastic, and rates quite reasonable ing to look slightly faded, but is centrally
considering the excellent location. e120. located and has good facilities – including
Grande Bretagne Vasiléos Yioryíou 1, TV and Internet in the rooms and a small
Platía Slndagma t210 33 30 000, gym – making it popular with business and
wwww.grandebretagne.gr. If someone leisure travellers alike. Worth checking for
else is paying, try to get them to put you up offers. e180.
Contents Accommodation
161
Marble House Cul-de-sac off A. Zínni complex occupies some 75 acres of a pri-
35A, Koukáki t210 92 34 058, vate pine-covered peninsula, 25km from
einfo@marblehouse.gr. Metro Syngroú- downtown. It has three hotels and villas, with
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
Fix. Easily the best value in Koukáki, with a pools, private beaches, water sports, tennis
very helpful management. It’s often full, so courts, a health club and no fewer than six
call ahead. Eight of the rooms have a/c (for restaurants. A shuttle bus runs twice daily to
extra charge); most rooms have a bath, and central Athens (in case the weather prevents
there are also two self-catering studios for you using the helipad) and there’s every
longer stays. e45. other conceivable facility including a major
Philippos Mitséon 3, Makryiánni t210 thalassotherapy spa. From e220.
922 36111, wwww.philipposhotel.gr. Delfini Leohárous 7, Pireás t210 41 73
Metro Akrópoli. A small yet comfortable 110, wwww.4peiraias.gr/delfini. See
modern hotel located conveniently on the map on p.127. If you have a late ferry
southeast side of the Acropolis. There’s a arrival or early departure and want a func-
large atrium for breakfast or afternoon cof- tional, convenient hotel, this is it. Tiny
fee. e195. rooms, but each is nicely done out with
Villa Olympia Karatzá 6, Koukáki t210 fridge and balcony; there are also some
92 37 650. Officially designated for long multi-bed rooms available. e50, but dis-
stays only, the rudimentary no-frills rooms counts if you show this book.
are often available to tourists on a daily Kefalari Suites Pendélis 1, Kifissiá
basis in this ramshackle old house, run by t210 62 33 333, wwww.kefalari
an Englishwoman. Basic, but by far the suites.gr. See map on p.126. A dozen
cheapest place in town. e20. extremely luxurious suites, each with its
own decorative theme and with every facili-
ty you might want. A very long way from the
Suburban Athens bustle of central Athens. e200–500.
Acropole Goúnari 7, Pireás t210 41 73 Mistral Vasiléos Pávlou 105, Kastella,
313, wwww.acropole-hotel.gr. See map Pireás t210 41 17 150, wwww
on p.127. Perhaps the pick of the hotels in .mistral.gr. See map on p.127. Upscale,
the Pireás port area, this newly renovated rather bland hotel, but undeniably comfort-
place has a variety of rooms including able and with fine sea views, looking out
triples; some with Jacuzzi. Breakfast room over Mikrolímano. Satellite TV, data ports
and bar downstairs. e60. and many other facilities in the rooms.
Astir Palace Vouliagmeni Apollónos 40, Much better value than similar quality
Vouliagméni t210 89 02 000, places in the centre. e110.
wwww.astir.gr. The Astir Palace resort
Contents Accommodation
162
Hostels
Hostels and campsites ACCOMMODATION
There are only a couple of Between the train stations and Omónia, the
places in Athens that can strictly only official youth hostel in Athens is friend-
be described as hostels, and only ly, informative and, although a little frayed at
one of these is officially the edges, includes a café and left-luggage
store. Annual membership costs e15; if
recognized. Several of the
you’re not a member e2.50 per day is
cheaper hotels listed above,
added to the cost of a bed. Dorms e8.
however, offer beds in shared Youth Hostel #5 Damaréos 75, Pangráti,
rooms.We’ve specified where near the huge Profítis Ilías church t210
this is the case – they’re 75 19 530, ey-hostels@otenet.gr.
significantly more expensive A bit out of the way, but this private hostel
than these hostels, but generally behind a green door is located in a quiet
more centrally located. neighbourhood, is very friendly, and has no
YHA Victor Hugo 16 t210 52 34 170, curfew. Trolleys #2 and #11 pass nearby.
f210 52 34 015. Metro Metaxourghío. Dorms e9.
Campsites
The city’s campsites are out in Camping Nea Kifissia t210 80 75 579.
the suburbs and not especially Located in the cool, leafy suburb of Néa
cheap – they’re only really Kifissiá, with a very welcome swimming
worth using if you have a pool. Take bus #A7 from Platía Káningos or
camper van to park. Phone metro to Kifissiá and transfer onto bus
ahead in season to book space. #528 to the stop close to the campsite.
Várkiza Camping t210 89 73 614.
Athens Camping Leofóros Athinón
Beachfront location just off the main road,
198–200 t210 58 14 114.
some 20km south of the centre, with a
The closest campsite to the centre of
swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Bus
Athens, re-opened after a revamp.
#A3 or #E2 from Amalías to Glyfádha then
Facilities include a minimarket, snack-bar
#115 or #116 to Várkiza.
and plenty of hot water. Take the Elefsína
bus #A16 from Platía Eleftherias.
Contents Accommodation
Essentials
Contents Essentials
Essentials
Contents Essentials
165
Arrival
A new airport and substantial investment coastal suburbs of Voúla and Glyfádha; the
ESSENTIALS
in transport links have transformed #E92 (roughly every 45min 9am–9pm,
arriving in Athens. The airport is linked to every 90min 10.30pm–8am) to the
the city by bus, metro and a fast northern suburb of Kifissiá; #E93 (roughly
expressway, while plenty of taxis and city every 35min 6am–midinght, hourly
buses service Pireás for those arriving by midnight–6am) to Kifisós intercity bus
boat. Even driving in is relatively station; and #E97 (every 45–50min
straightforward thanks to the new 6am–6pm, every 60min 7pm–5am) to
Arrival
expressways. Dháfni metro station. All these services
cost e2.90, and the ticket (an imerísio) is
By air valid on all Athens public transport for 24
Athens’ modernistic Eleftherios Venize- hours. They should be bought from a booth
los airport (wwww.aia.gr) lies some beside the stops, or, if this is closed, can be
26km east of the city. Facilities are excel- purchased on the bus: make sure you have
lent, with ample money-changing small change. You need to validate the
bureaux, two American Express offices ticket once on the airport bus, and again
and several ATMs. Luggage-storage facili- for your first trip on the metro or city bus.
ties are open round the clock, as are the When departing, it’s worth buying your
shops, newsstands, cafés, a food court ticket, available from any city metro station,
and fast-food restaurants. There’s also an 24 hours in advance, to have a day’s free
official EOT tourist office (daily use of the transport system as well as your
8am–10pm; t210 35 45 101). It’s worth journey to the airport.
calling in here to pick up their excellent Getting into Athens by taxi is also pretty
map, and up-to-date information on swift. You can get to the city centre via the
museum and site opening hours. Attikí Odhós Expressway and the Ymittós
Public transport from the airport is in a Ring Road in less than thirty minutes at
state of flux, so it’s worth picking up the slow traffic times and in under an hour at
latest leaflet on the situation, widely peak times. The Attikí Odhós Expressway
available at the airport. From summer also links the airport with a large swathe of
2004, metro line 3 should extend to northern Athens and runs right around the
Dhoukíssis Plakentías station, from where city as far as Elefsína. A taxi fare is rough-
metro trains will share the suburban rail ly e12–15 to central Athens or Pireás.
lines to the airport. With around four trains Before setting out in a taxi, make sure that
an hour, this should be the most the meter is switched on to the correct
convenient way into the centre. rate (see taxis, p.167), but note that there
Alternatively, express bus #E95 (approx are numerous legitimate extras for airport
every 20min midnight–7am, every 30min journeys, luggage etc.
7am–7pm, every 15min 7pm–midnight;
70min) runs to Sjndagma Square in the By ferry
centre of town via Ethnikí Ámyna metro The simplest way to get to Athens from
station; #E94 (every 10min 7am–7pm, Pireás is by metro. Trains run from 6am
less frequently till midnight) goes to Ethnikí to midnight. For the airport, take express
Ámyna only. The journey is quicker if you bus #E96 (every 20min 7am–9pm, every
change to the metro at Ethnikí Ámyna, but 40min 9pm–7am). Taxis between Pireás
this is not easy if you’ve got a lot of and central Athens should cost around
luggage. Again, bus routes may change as e8, including baggage: getting a taxi
a result of the extension of the metro. when a ferry arrives is no easy matter,
Others are #E96 (every 20min 7am–9pm, though – you’ll need to be pushy, and
every 40min 9pm–7am) to Pireás via the almost certainly have to share.
Contents Essentials
166
City transport
Athens is served by slow but wide- The metro
Arrival ESSENTIALS
Contents Essentials
167
Omónia and Viktorías. Line 2 (red) runs Taxis
from Sepólia to Dháfni, with central stops
at Omónia, Sjndagma and Akrópoli at the Athenian taxis have a rather dodgy repu-
foot of the Acropolis. Line 3 (blue) tation – due more to the cavalier attitude
extends from Monastiráki northeast to of the drivers than to the cars them-
selves. Drivers are notoriously capricious
ESSENTIALS
Ethnikí Ámyna and to Dhoukíssis
Plakentías, with trains continuing from and will often take you only where they
there via new suburban rail lines to the want to go rather than to your exact des-
airport. tination – justifiable to a point in a city
where getting from A to B can take up to
a couple of hours, but not helpful for for-
Buses and trolleys eign visitors. Few drivers speak English,
City Transport
Athens’ bus network, serving hundreds many still smoke in the cab despite an
of routes from the centre out into the official ban, and an unscrupulous minori-
straggling suburbs and beyond, has also ty will rip you off mercilessly. Prior to the
benefitted from much-needed investment 2004 Olympics, all Athenian taxi drivers
over recent years and the city now boasts were supposed to have attended “charm
a fleet of modern, comfortable buses, school” for re-education, but few locals
including a growing number of “green” expected to notice much change.
vehicles running off natural gas. There’s That said, Athens’ cabs are still among
also a substantial trolley bus network, the cheapest of any European capital –
long since disappeared from the streets fares around the city centre rarely run
of most cities in Europe. The original above e3, with a journey to the airport
Russian-made trolley buses of yesteryear only e12–15 and Pireás e6–8 from the
have almost all been replaced by modern centre. The exact amount is determined
and more comfortable air-conditioned by the pickup point and the amount of
versions. Using electricity as their primary luggage, with a minimum fare of e1.50.
source of power, they’re also equipped All officially licensed cabs are yellow, with
with diesel engines to manoeuvre around a special black-on-yellow number plate
traffic problems. beginning with the letter “T” (some older
The bad news is that the system is red-on-white plates are also still in circu-
pretty confusing – it’s not always obvious lation). You can wave them down on the
which bus to take or where to catch it – street, pick them up from ranks at the
and that buses can be very crowded at train stations, airport or the National Gar-
peak times (7–8.30am & 1.30–3pm), dens on the corner of Sjndagma, or get
unbearably hot in summer traffic jams, your hotel to phone one for you (adding a
and chronically plagued by strikes and e1.50 surcharge to the fare). They are
slow-downs; walking is often a better most elusive during rush hours, or when
option, particularly in the city centre. it rains.
Among the handiest of the trolley bus Make sure the meter is switched on
routes are the #1, which connects the when you get in, with its display visible
Larísis train station with Omónia, Sjndag- and properly zeroed. There are no fixed-
ma and Koukáki; and #2–#5 and #12, price rides in and around Athens – use of
which all link Sjndagma with Omónia the meter is compulsory, so if it’s “not
and the National Archeological Museum working”, find another taxi.
on Patisíon. Where other buses are con- Attempts at overcharging tourists are
venient, we’ve detailed them in the text, particularly common with small-hours
and most bus stops now show the routes arrivals at the airport and Pireás. A threat
of the main services using them. Check to have hotel staff or the tourist police
the “Going Places” section of adjudicate usually elicits co-operation, as
w www.oasa.gr/uk/index_gr.asp for they will very likely take your side and the
details of all transport options to just police have the power to revoke a driver’s
about anywhere in Athens. operating permit. In case of a dispute,
Contents Essentials
168
make an obvious written note of the vehi- seem to extend for a week or two either
cle’s number plate details. side of the actual date.
Every taxi must have a dash-mounted To help make ends meet on govern-
plastic placard listing regular rates and ment-regulated fare limits, taxi-drivers
extra charges in English and Greek. often pick up extra passengers along the
City Transport ESSENTIALS
Information
The Greek National Tourist Office sleep, as well as the city streets – or the
(GNTO; Ellinikós Organismós Tourismoú city maps produced by Emvelia
or EOT in Greek; w www.gnto.gr) has a (w www.emvelia.gr) or Falkplan. These
brand new central information office at and others should be available from good
Amalías 26, just off Sjndagma (t 210 local bookshops and some kiosks: the
33 10 392). This is a useful first stop for best source is the top floor of the Elefth-
information, and they have a good free eroudakis bookshop at Panepistimíou 17,
map as well as information sheets on between Sjndagma and Omónia.
current opening hours, bus and ferry Useful sources of information for
schedules, and so on. There’s also Inter- what’s on include the English-language
net access. If you are arriving by plane, daily Athens News, whose Friday edition
you could also call in at the airport has a complete events programme for
branch (see p.165). the weekend. Much more extensive list-
Useful maps to complement those in ings, but in Greek only, can be found in
this guide include the Rough Guide City Athinorama or Time Out Athens, both of
Map of Athens ( w www.roughguides which have screening times for all films
.com) – full-colour, non-tearable, weath- and exhaustive catalogues of nightspots,
erproof and pocket-sized, detailing restaurant, music and events. They’re
attractions, places to shop, eat, drink and published weekly on Thursdays.
Directory
AIRLINES Aegean, Vouliagménis 572 t 210 33 11 668, reservations t 800
t 210 99 88 300, reservations t 801 44 129 506; EasyJet, airport only t 210
11 20 000, airport t 210 35 30 101; 35 30 300; Hellas Jet, Michalakópoulou
British Airways, Themistokléous 1, 91, Ilísia t 210 74 57 700, reservations
Glyfádha t 210 89 06 666, airport t 801 11 53 000, airport t 210 35 30
t 210 32 30 453; Delta, Óthonos 4 815-9; Olympic, Fillelínon 15 t 210 92
Contents Essentials
169
67 663, reservations t 210 96 66 666, can directors. Films are always shown in
airport 210 93 68 424; Singapore Air- the original language with Greek subti-
lines, Xenofóndos 9 t 210 37 28 000; tles, and admission is E6–8. Downtown
Thai, Venizélou 32, Glyfádha t 210 96 indoor cinemas are concentrated on the
92 010. three main thoroughfares connecting
ESSENTIALS
AIRPORT ENQUIRIES t 210 35 31 000 Omónia and Sjndagma; and in
for airline offices at the airport, t 210 35 Ambelókipi, around the junctions of
30 000 for flight schedules. Leofóros Alexándhras and Kifissías. Cen-
AMERICAN EXPRESS Poste restante and tral and reliable outdoor venues include
money changing at the main branch at Cine Paris, on the roof at Kydathinéon
Ermoú 2 (1st floor), on the corner of 22, Pláka; Apostólou Pávlou 7, Thissío;
Sjndagma Square. Two offices at the air- Panathinea, Mavromiháli 165, Neápoli;
Information
port are open 24hr. Zefyros, Tróön 36, Thissío (good for film
BANKS AND EXCHANGE Most banks noir and Fifties oldies); Vox on the platía
have 24hr ATMs that accept debit cards. and Riviera at Valtetsíou 46, both in
Banking hours are typically Mon–Thurs Exárhia.
8.30am–2.30pm and Fri 8.30am–2pm. CLASSICAL MUSIC The summer-long
Exchange bureaux are open during regu- Hellenic Festival hosts many of Athens’
lar business hours throughout the city finest classical performances, and the
and are far quicker than banks – but city’s concert hall – the Mégaro Mousikís
check the commission and exchange on Vassilísis Sofías in Ilísia by the metro
rate. Most hotels will also exchange cur- station that bears its name – also has a
rency, though usually at a poor rate, and full season running throughout the winter
getting cash on a credit card is very months.
expensive. DANCE The one outstanding dance event
BEACHES Almost all the good beaches in worth catching is the Dora Stratou Ethnic
and around Athens demand payment for Dance Company performing in their own
entry, for which you’ll get a clean beach, a theatre at Arakínthou and Voutié on
lounger, somewhere to buy food and Filopáppou Hill (t 210 92 14 650). Per-
drink, and facilities including beach volley- formances (late May to late Sept
ball and all sorts of watersports. Some of Tues–Sat 9.30pm, Sun 8.15pm; E13)
the fanciest charge E10 per person at combine traditional music, fine choreog-
weekends; more basic places charge raphy and gorgeous costumes. To reach
E3–5. There are plenty of spots to swim the theatre, walk along the south flank of
for free, but this may mean from the the Acropolis until you see the signs.
rocks, or involve a long hike from the Tickets can almost always be picked up
road. On summer weekends, every beach at the door.
– and the roads to them – will be packed. DISABLED TRAVELLERS Hotels through-
CAR RENTAL Most car rental companies out Athens were refurbished in the
have offices near the top of Leofóros run-up to the Olympics, and many have
Syngroú, including Antena at no.52 accessible rooms and other facilities.
(t 210 92 32 544); Budget (no.8, t 210 However, the infrastructure of the city is
92 14 771); EuropCar (no.43, t 210 95 tricky for people in wheelchairs or with
88 990; Hertz (no.12, t 210 92 20 102); limited mobility. Pavements are rarely
Holiday Autos (no.8, t 210 22 23 088); smooth, there are many steep streets,
Thrifty (no.25, t 210 92 46 001); Sixt and the ground at most archeological
(no.23, t 210 92 20 121); and Status sites is extremely uneven. The new metro
(no.40, t 210 92 24 345). has excellent lifts from pavement level
CINEMA Athens has dozens of indoor direct to the platforms, but often a large
cinemas, and in summer many outdoor gap between the platform and the train.
screens showing second-run offerings, EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Australia,
classics and cult films, while festivals Dhimitríou Soútsou 37 t 210 64 50 405;
feature prominent European and Ameri- Canada, Ioánnou Yennadhíou 4 t 210 72
Contents Essentials
170
73 400; Ireland, Vasiléos Konstandínou 7 INTERNET There are plenty of Internet
t 210 72 32 771; New Zealand (con- Cafés throughout central Athens, mostly
sulate), Xenías 24, Ambelókipi t 210 77 charging around e2–4 per hour. They
10 112; UK, Ploútarhou 1, Kolonáki generally have fast connections and mod-
t 210 72 72 600; US, Vasilíssis Sofías ern machines, but are often smoky. Some
Directory ESSENTIALS
Contents Essentials
171
about 5.30 to 8.30pm; they’re closed on you’ll need to know the access code for
Sundays, and often on Saturday, Monday Greece. For the domestic operator, call
and Wednesday afternoons. However, t 132; for the international operator, call
increasing numbers of places, especially t 139. Mobile phones are ubiquitous in
in the city centre and above all the tourist Athens, and if you have an international
ESSENTIALS
shops in Pláka, now remain open roaming facility, you should have no prob-
throughout the day. Hours can also vary lem using yours while here.
between summer and winter (usually THEATRE The contemporary Greek the-
Oct–March & April–Sept). atre scene is unlikely to be accessible
PHARMACIES The Marinópoulos branch- unless your Greek is fluent. As with Greek
es on Patisíon and Panepistimíou are music, it is essentially a winter pursuit; in
particularly good and also sell homeo- summer, the only productions tend to be
Directory
pathic remedies. Bakákos, on Platía satirical and (to outsiders) totally incom-
Omonías is the largest general pharmacy prehensible revues. However, well worth
in Athens and stocks just about every- catching is the Classical drama staged
thing. All pharmacies display a daily list of (June–Aug Fri & Sat nights) at the spec-
those open after-hours. tacular ancient theatre in Epidauros (see
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Official holidays are: p.144). For big productions you’re best
January 1; January 6; March 25; the first getting your tickets in advance as seats
Monday of Lent (variable Feb/March); can sell out quickly.
Easter weekend (variable March/April); TIME Greek summer time begins at 2am
May 1; Pentecost or Whit Monday (fifty on the last Sunday in March, when the
days after Easter); August 15; October clocks go forward one hour, and ends at
28; December 25 and 26. Many Atheni- 2am the last Sunday in October when
ans take their holidays at Easter and they go back. Greek time is thus always
during August, when some shops and two hours ahead of Britain. For North
restaurants will be closed. America, the difference is seven hours for
SKIING A day-trip to ski from Athens is Eastern Standard Time, ten hours for
easily arranged in winter: the main centre Pacific Standard Time, with an extra hour
at Mount Parnassós (p.143) is accessible plus or minus for those few weeks in
either by car or on an organized tour. To April when one place is on daylight
avoid the hordes, go during the week. saving and the other isn’t.
SMOKING Greeks smoke heavily, often in TOURS Most travel agencies offer a vari-
crowded public places such as cafés, ety of tours out of Athens, as well as
restaurants and bars. Public transport is day- or half-day tours of the city. The lat-
non-smoking, as are many offices, but only ter normally include a bus drive around
a small minority of places to eat or drink the highlights and a guided tour of the
will have effective non-smoking areas. Acropolis and its museum for around
TELEPHONES Phonecards (tilekárta) for e30. You could also take the “Happy
public phones are available from kiosks Train” ride, which sets out from the Platía
and small shops, starting at e3. For Paliás Agorás (on Eólou, just off Adhri-
international calls, though, an internation- anoú) and clatters past most of the
al calling card (such as AT&T) is usually major sites for an hour or so (e5, chil-
better value: if you already have one, dren e3).
Contents Essentials
172
Contents Essentials
Language
Contents Language
Language
Contents Language
175
Basics
LANGUAGE Basics
You can get by in Athens speaking only English – in the tourist areas
certainly there’ll always be someone who can speak it fluently. Away
from the centre you may struggle occasionally, but even here an
English-speaker is rarely far away. However, the effort of mastering a
few Greek words is well repaid, and will transform your status from that
of dumb tourístas to the more honourable one of xénos/xéni, a word
which can mean foreigner, traveller and guest all rolled into one.
The Rough Guide Greek Dictionary Phrasebook is full of more phras-
es that you’ll need. It also fills you in on cultural know-how and is sen-
sibly transliterated.
Pronunciation
On top of the usual difficulties of learning a new language, Greek
presents the additional problem of an entirely separate alphabet.
Despite initial appearances, this is in practice fairly easily mastered
and is a skill that will help enormously if you are going to get around
independently. In addition, certain combinations of letters have
unexpected results. Remember that the correct stress (marked with
an accent) is crucial.With the right sounds but the wrong stress peo-
ple will either fail to understand you, or else understand something
quite different from what you intended – there are numerous pairs
of words with the same spelling and phonemes, distinguished only
by their stress.
Set out below is the Greek alphabet, the system of transliteration
used in this book, and a brief aid to pronunciation.
Contents Language
176
Π, π p p sound
Ρ, ρ r r sound
Σ, σ, ς s s sound, except z before m or g; single sigma
has the same phonic value as double sigma
Τ, τ
Basics LANGUAGE
t t sound
Υ, υ y y as in barely
Φ, φ f f sound
Χ, χ h before vowels, harsh h sound, like ch in loch
kh before consonants
Ψ, ψ ps ps as in lips
Ω, ω o o as in toad, indistinguishable from ο
Contents Language
177
Cold Krko Pharmacy Farmakío
With (together) Mazí (mé) Post office Tahydhromío
Without Horís Stamps Gramatósima
Quickly Grígora Petrol station Venzinádhiko
LANGUAGE Basics
Slowly Sigá Bank Trápeza
Mr/Mrs Kkrios/Kyría Money Leftá/khrímata
Miss Dhespinís Toilet Toualéta
To eat/drink Trógo/píno Police Astynomía
Bakery Foúrnos, Doctor Yiatrós
psomádhiko Hospital Nosokomío
Requests
To ask a question, it’s simplest to start with parakaló, then name the
thing you want in an interrogative tone.
Where is the Parakaló, o How much? Póso?
bakery? foúrnos? When? Póte?
Can you show me Parakaló, ó dhrómos Why? Yiatí?
the road to . . . ? yiá . . . ? At what Tí óra . . . ?
We’d like a Parakaló, éna time . . . ?
room for two dhomátio yiá dhko What is/ Tí íne/Pió íne . . . ?
átoma Which is . . . ?
May I have a kilo Parakaló, éna kiló How much Póso káni?
of oranges? portokália? does it cost?
Where? Poú? What time does Tí óra aníyi?
How? Pós? it open?
How many? Póssi, pósses or What time does Tí óra klíni?
póssa? it close?
Conversation
By far the most common greeting, on meeting and parting, is yiá
sou/yiá sas – literally “health to you”. Incidentally, the approaching
party utters the first greeting, not those seated at sidewalk kafenío
tables or doorsteps.
Hello Hérete Speak slower, Parakaló, miláte pió
Good morning Kalí méra please sigá
Good evening Kalí spéra How do you Pós léyete stá
Good night Kalí níkhta say it in Greek? Elliniká?
Goodbye Adío I don’t know Dhén xéro
How are you? Tí kánis/Tí kánete? See you tomorrow Thá sé dhó ávrio
I’m fine Kalá íme See you soon Kalí andhámosi
And you? Ké essís? Let’s go Páme
What’s your Pós se léne? Please help me Parakaló, ná mé
name? voithíste
My name is . . . Mé léne . . .
Contents Language
178
Greek’s Greek
There are numerous words and phrases which you will hear
constantly, even if you rarely have the chance to use them.These
Basics LANGUAGE
Accommodation
Hotel Xenodhohío Hot water Zestó neró
Inn Xenón(as) Cold water Krdo neró
Youth hostel Xenónas neótitos Air conditioning Klimatismós
A room . . . Éna dhomátio . . . Fan Anamistíra
for one/two/ yiá éna/dhjo/tría Can I see it? Boró ná tó dhó?
three people átoma Can we camp Boroúme na váloume
for one/two/ yiá mía/dhjo/trís here? ti skiní edhó?
three nights vradhiés Campsite Kámping/Kataskínosi
with a double mé megálo kreváti Tent Skiní
with a shower mé doús
Travel
Aeroplane Aeropláno How many Póssa hiliómetra?
Bus, coach Leoforío, púlman kilometres?
Car Aftokínito, amáxi How many Pósses óres?
Motorbike, Mihanáki, papáki hours?
scooter Where are you Poú pás?
Taxi Taxí going?
Ship Plío/vapóri/karávi I’m going to . . .
Páo stó . . .
High-speed Tahkplio I want to get Thélo ná katévo
catamaran off at . . . stó . . .
Hydrofoil Dhelfíni The road to . . .O dhrómos yiá . . .
Train Tréno Near Kondá
Train station Sidhirodhromikós Far Makriá
stathmós Left Aristerá
Bicycle Podhílato Right Dhexiá
Hitching Otostóp Straight ahead Katefthía, ísia
On foot Mé tá pódhia A ticket to . . .Éna isitírio yiá . . .
Trail Monopáti A return ticket Éna isitírio mé
Bus station Praktorío leoforíon, KTEL epistrofí
Bus stop Stássi Beach Paralía
Harbour Limáni Cave Spiliá
What time does Ti óra févyi? Centre (of town) Kéndro
it leave? Church Eklissía
What time does Ti óra ftháni? Sea Thálassa
it arrive? Village Horió
Contents Language
179
Numbers
1 énas/éna/mía 30 triánda
2 dhko 40 saránda
LANGUAGE Basics
3 trís/tría 50 penínda
4 tésseres/téssera 60 exínda
5 pénde 70 evdhomínda
6 éxi 80 ogdhónda
7 eftá 90 enenínda
8 okhtó 100 ekató
9 ennéa (or more 150 ekatón penínda
slangy, enyá) 200 dhiakóssies/
10 dhéka dhiakóssia
11 éndheka 500 pendakóssies/
12 dhódheka pendakóssia
13 dhekatrís 1000 hílies/hília
14 dhekatésseres 2000 dhko hiliádhes
20 íkossi 1,000,000 éna ekatomírio
21 íkossi éna (all first próto
compounds written second dhéftero
separately thus) third tríto
Contents Language
180
Menu reader
Menu reader LANGUAGE
Basics
Aláti Salt Neró Water
Avgá Eggs Psári(a) Fish
(Horís) ládhi (Without) Oil Psomí Bread
Hortofágos Vegetarian Olikís Wholemeal bread
Katálogo, lísta Menu Sikalísio Rye bread
Kréas Meat Thalassiná Seafood
Lahaniká Vegetables Tyrí Cheese
O logariasmós The bill Yiaoúrti Yogurt
Méli Honey Záhari Sugar
Cooking terms
Akhnistó Steamed Sti soúvla Spit-roasted
Makaronádha Any pasta-based dish Stó foúrno Baked
Pastó Marinated in salt Tiganitó Pan-fried
Psitó Roasted Tís óras Grilled/fried to order
Saganáki Cheese-based red Yakhní Stewed in oil and
sauce; or any fried tomato sauce
cheese Yemistá Stuffed (squid,
Skáras Grilled vegetables, and so on)
Vegetables
Angináres Artichokes Domátes Tomatoes
Angoúri Cucumber Fakés Lentils
Ánitho Dill Fasolákia French (green) beans
Bámies Okra, ladies’ fingers Horiátiki (saláta) Greek salad (with
Bouréki, Courgette/zucchini, olives, feta etc)
bourekákia potato and cheese pie Hórta Greens (usually wild),
Briám Ratatouille steamed
Contents Language
181
Kolokythákia Courgette/zucchini Radhíkia Wild chicory – a
Koukiá Broad beans common hórta
Maroúli Lettuce Rmzi, piláfi Rice (usually with
Melitzánes Aubergine/eggplant sáltsa – sauce)
LANGUAGE
imám slices baked with Rókka Rocket
onion, garlic and Saláta Salad
copious olive oil Spanáki Spinach
Patátes Potatoes Vlíta Notchweed – another
Piperiés Peppers common hórta
Pligoúri, Bulgur wheat Yígandes White haricot beans
pinigoúri
Menu reader
English equivalent for sykiós
this invertebrate. Platm Skate, ray
Galéos Dogfish, hound shark, Sardhélles Sardines
tope Sargós White bream
Garídhes Shrimp, prawns Seláhi Skate, ray
Gávros Mild anchovy Skáros Parrotfish
Glóssa Sole Skathári Black bream
Gónos, gonákia Any hatchling fish Skoumbrí Atlantic mackerel
Gópa Bogue Soupiá Cuttlefish
Kalamarákia Baby squid Spiníalo, Marinated foúskes
Kalamária Squid spinóalo
Karavídhes Crayfish Synagrídha Dentex
Kefalás Axillary bream Tsipoúra Gilt-head bream
Koliós Chub mackerel Vátos Skate, ray
Koutsomoúra Goatfish (small red Xifías Swordfish
mullet) Yermanós Leatherback
Kydhónia Cockles
Meat dishes
Arní Lamb lamb-mince
Bekrí mezé Pork chunks in red sauce casserole with
Biftéki Hamburger bechamel topping
Brizóla Pork or beef chop Païdhákia Rib chops, lamb or goat
Hirinó Pork Papoutsákia Stuffed aubergine/
Keftédhes Meatballs eggplant “shoes” –
Kokorétsi Liver/offal roulade, spit- like moussakás
roasted without bechamel
Kopsídha Lamb shoulder chops Pastítsio Macaroni pie baked
Kotópoulo Chicken with minced meat
Kounélli Rabbit Pastourmás Cured, highly spiced
Loukánika Spicy course-ground meat; traditionally
sausages camel, nowadays
Moskhári Veal beef
Moussakás Aubergine, potato and Patsás Tripe and trotter soup
Contents Language
182
Psaronéfri Pork tenderloin Sykóti Liver
medallions Tiganiá Meat chunks, usually
Salingária Garden snails pork, fried in its own
Soutzoukákia Minced meat fat
Menu reader LANGUAGE
Cheese
Ayeladhinó Cow’s-milk cheese Katsikísio Goat cheese
Féta Salty, white cheese Kasséri Medium-sharp cheese
Graviéra Gruyère-type hard Myzíthra Sweet cream cheese
cheese Próvio Sheep’s cheese
Drinks
Contents Language
Index and small print
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Publishing Information
This 1st edition published May 2004 by Rough © John Fisher May 2004
Guides Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL. No part of this book may be reproduced in any
345 Hudson St, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10014, form without permission from the publisher except
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Distributed by the Penguin Group 192pp includes index
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The authors
INDEX
John Fisher co-authored the first edition of the Paul Hellander has been in and out of Greece for
Rough Guide to Greece and has been inextricably over thirty years, having graduated with a degree in
linked with Rough Guides ever since. He lives in Greek from Birmingham University. Imbued with an
South London with his wife and two young sons. indelible love of Hellenism, Paul has a particular
predilection for rocky islands, soaring mountains
and the sleepless Olympic city of Athens.
Acknowledgements
From John: Thanks are due to more people than From Paul: Many thanks to Angeliki Kanelli and
can be listed here, but above all to Dimitris Vana Kapsaski for sharing their Zografou home
Koutoulas, Calli Travlos and the staff of the GNTO in with me, as well as Marc Dubin and John Fisher for
London, Nick Edwards, Kate Donnelly, Yiannis support and valuable insight.
Mikhas and all at the prefecture of Pireás, Leonidas
Tsagaris, Lena Zolota; to everyone at Rough Guides,
especially Fran, Kate, Geoff, Ruth, Jj, Mark, Katie,
Miles, Diana and Dan; and as always to A and the
two Js for putting up with it for far too long.
Photo credits
All images © Rough Guides except the following:
p.2 The Parthenon © CORBIS p.34 Classical concert © Amet Jean Pierre/CORBIS
p.5 Mosaic of the Virgin Mary © Michael p.35 Street Musicians © Alamy
Freeman/CORBIS p.35 White Snake concert © James Sparshatt/
p.6 Neoclassical statue © Michael Freeman/CORBIS Pixida Athens Photographic Agency
p.10 Gold Mask of Agamemnon © Archivo p.35 Football © James Sparshatt /Pixida Athens
Iconografico, S.A./CORBIS Photographic Agency
p.11 Thissío street scene © Michele di p.36 Young people at a nightclub, Athens © Alamy
Giovanni/Pixida Athens Photographic Agency p.37 Reggae concert, Athens © Alamy
p.11 Parthenon: view to the Acropolis p.37 Young people at Athens nightclub © Alamy
© Neil Setchfield p.37 Athens nightclub © James Sparshatt /Pixida
p.12 Caryatids on Erectheion © Michele di Athens Photographic Agency
Giovanni/Pixida Athens Photographic Agency p.41 Icon of the Virgin Episkepis
p.13 Acropolis son et lumière © G Hellier/Robert Harding
© M.L. Sinibakdi/CORBIS p.41 Baptism © James Sparshatt /Pixida Athens
p.15 Museum of the Agora © James Sparshatt/ Photographic Agency
Pixida Athens Photographic Agency p.44 & p.129 Vouliagméni Beach © James
p.15 Temple of Athena Nike © Bettmann/CORBIS Sparshatt /Pixida Athens Photographic Agency
p.19 & p.125 Head of Christ as Pantocrator p.45 Soúnio Temple © John Fisher
© Elio Ciol/CORBIS p.48 Detail of chariot from Greek krater © Gustavo
p.19 Monastery of Dhafní Tomsich/CORBIS
© Archivo Iconografico, S.A./CORBIS p.117 Residential street in Pangráti © Michelle De
p.20 Gold Vaphio Cup © Gianni Dagli Orti/CORBIS Giovanni/Pixida
p.21 Poseidon © Vanni Archive/CORBIS p.118 The Olympic Stadium © Julia
p.21 Little jockey © Alamy Waterlow/CORBIS
p.21 Minoan fresco of two young men boxing p.120 The First Cemetery © Matt Barrett
© Gianni Dagli Orti/CORBIS p.125 Kessariani Monastery © Chris Hellier/CORBIS
p.23 Benáki museum © Alamy p.129 Shop front © James Sparshatt/Pixida
p.23 Female Cycladic Idol ©Gianni Dagli Orti/CORBIS p.134 Cape Soúnio from the sea © John Fisher
p.26 View from Acropolis towards Pláka © James p.144 Ruins of ancient city at Acrocorinth
Sparshatt /Pixida Athens Photographic Agency © Tim Thompson/CORBIS
p.29 Spring flowers © John Fisher
Index
A bars (by area):
Exárhia and Neápoli
Kolonáki and
100
Ionos
Kirki
MoBi
68
85
130
Lykavitós Hill 110 Oasis 116
accommodation 153 Mets, Pangráti Iy Oréa Ellás 77
accommodation map 156 and Koukáki 122 To Tristrato 68
Acrocorinth 144 Monastiráki and Psyrrí 79 Varsos 130
INDEX
Tiryns
51
Temple of Olympian Zeus 116
146
C Sodade
Studio 54
Venue
87
132
132
Vravróna 136
Ardhittós Hill 120 cafés (by area): Vibe 79
Monastiráki and Psyrrí 77 Wunderbar 101
Areopagus 59
Pláka 67 consulates 169
Asklepion 58 Suburban Athens 129 Corinth 144
Asklepion, Epidauros 145 Sjndagma and around 116 currency 170
Athena Nike, Temple of 55 Thissío, Gázi and Áno
Athinaïs 84 Petrálona 85
Attalos, Stoa of 60
Attica
Attica map
133
134
cafés
Ammonites Café-
Restaurant 129
D
Ayía Ekateríni Church 65 Antica Cioccalateria 77
dance 169
Áyii Apóstoli 60 Athinaion Politeia 85
Bread Deli 77 day-trips maps 134, 140
Áyios Yeóryios 104
Café Kornarou 77 Dhelfí 141
Déja Vu Lifestyle Café 130 Delphi 141
Delphi map 143
B Dhioskouri
Everest
Floral Art Café
67
116
77
Delphic Oracle 142
Demeter, Sanctuary of 137
Galaktopolio Iy Amalthea 68 Dhafní Monastery 123
banks 169 O Glykis 68 Dopnysos, Theatre of 57
INDEX
history, Roman 71
Airport 165 history, Classical 54
Eleusis
Elgin Marbles
embassies
137
56
169
hostels
Hotel Grande Bretagne
162
112
K
hotels
emergency phone Achilleas 158 Kalimármaro 119
numbers 170 Acropole 161 Kanellopoulou Museum 65
Epidauros 144 Acropolis House 155 Kapnikaréa 75
Erectheion 56 Acropolis Select 160 Kavoúri 128
Exárhia 95 Acropolis View 160 Kerameikos 83
Exárhia map 96 Adonis 158 Kessarianí monastery 125
The Alassia 159 Kifissiá map 126
Arethusa 160 Kifissiá 126
F Art Gallery
Athenian Callirhoe
160
Astir Palace Vouliagmeni 161
160
Klistón monastery
Kolonáki
Kolonáki map
137
103
103
ferries 165, 170 Athens Cypria 158 Koukáki 117
Attalos 159
festivals 170 Koukáki map 118
Byron 158
Fethiye Tzami 72 Cecil 159
film 169 Delfini 161
Filopáppou Hill
First Cemetery
flea markets
82
120
74, 128
Dorian Inn
Erechthion
Evropi
159
159
159
L
flower market 90 Exarchion 159 language 173
Folk Art and Tradition, Feron 159 Lavrio 134
Centre of 63 Grande Bretagne 160 Liákoura, Mount 143
food 180 Hermes 158 Lófos tou Stréfi 98
football 170 Hostel Aphrodite 159 Loútsa 135
Forum, Roman 70 John’s Place 158 Lykavitós Hill 102, 104
fruit and vegetable bazaar 90 Kefalari Suites 161 Lykavitós Hill map 102
funicular 104 Kimon 158 Lysikratos, Monument of 64
Kouros 158
Marble House 161
Mistral 161
G Museum Best Western 159
Nefeli 158
M
Orion and Dryades 160
Gaia Centre 126 Pella Inn 158 mail 170
Gázi 80 Phaedra 158 Marathon 135
Gázi map 81 Philippos 161 Marathónas 135
Glyfádha 128 St George Lycabettus 160 Maria Callas museum 84
Goulandhrís Museum of Stratos Vassilikos 160 markets 74, 88, 90, 170
Cycladic and Ancient Student’s Inn 158 Medresse 72
Greek Art 106 Tempi 158 menu reader 180
Goulandhrís Natural History Thisseus Hostel 159 metro 166
Museum 126 Thission 159 Mets 117
Villa Olympia 161
Greek Folk Art, Mets map 118
Zinon 159
Museum of 61 Mitrópolis 75
Greek Folk Art: Man and mobile phones 171
Tools, Museum of 66 Monastiráki 70
Greek language
Greek National Parliament
173 I Monastiráki flea market 74
Monastiráki map 72
building 114 money 170
Ídhra 149
Mound of the Plataians 135
Ilisós river 120
Mount Immitós 125
Immitós, Mount 125
Mount Liákoura 143
62
N Poseidon, Temple of
post
133
170
Gaia Centre 126 Náfplio 145 Presidential Palace 114
Goulandhrís Museum of National Art Gallery and Propylaia 53
Cycladic and Ancient
Aléxandros Soútzos Psyrrí 70
Greek Art 106 Psyrrí map 72
Museum 107
Goulandhrís Natural History public holidays 171
Museum 126 National Archeological
Museum 96 public transport 166
Greek Folk Art 61
Greek Folk Art: Ceramics National Gardens 114
National Historical
Collection
Greek Folk Art: Man
and Tools
74
66
Museum
Néa Mákri
90
135
R
Greek Popular Musical Neápoli 95
Instruments 73 Neápoli map 96 Rafína 135
Jewish Museum New Acropolis Museum 59 Ramnous 136
of Greece 64 Numismatic Museum 91 restaurants
Kanellopoulou Museum 65 47 Maritsa’s 110
Maria Callas Museum 84 Aenaon 121
Agora 150
National Art Gallery and
Alexandros Soútzos
Museum 107
O Agrio Rodho
Aigli Restaurant Bar
Akhinós
109
116
130
National Historical
Museum 90 Olympian Zeus, Akriogiali 138
Numismatic Museum 91 Temple of 116 Akti 130
Pierídhes Museum of Olympic Stadium, Old 119 Al Mawal 130
Ancient Cypriot Art 85 Omónia Square 90 Ta Alonia 150
Pinakothiki Kouvoutsaki 127 Omónia Square area map 89 Alexandria 99
Pireás Archeological opening hours 170 Alexandra 98
Museum 128 Andonis 150
War Museum 107 Apanemia 121
music, live (by area):
Exárhia and Neápoli
Kolonáki and
101 P Athinaïkon
I Avli tou Antoni
I Avra
92
138
138
Lykavitós Hill 111 Baïraktaris 77
Panathenaic Stadium 119 Bar Guru Bar 93
Mets, Pangráti
Panathenaic Way 54 Barba Yannis 99
and Koukáki 122
Pangráti 117 Barchera 78
Monastiráki and Psyrrí 79
Platía Omonías Pangráti map 118 Barfly 85
and around 94 Parnassós, Mount 143 Beer Garden Ritterburg 130
music, live Párnitha, Mount 137 Buffalo Bill 130
An Club 101 Parthenon 55 Café Abysinia 78
Boemissa 101 Parthenon marbles 56 Cellier le Bistrot 93
Café Asante 122 Pedhío tou Áreos 98 Central 109
Diavolos Musiki Spiti 122 pharmacies 171 Cilentio 109
Elatos 94 phones 171 Damingos
Enallax 101 (Ta Bakaliarakia) 68
Phyle 137
Half-Note 122 Daphne’s 68
Pierídhes Museum of Ancient
Hi-Hat Café 111 Dhimokritos 109
Cypriot Art 85 Dirty Ginger 85
Kriti 111 Pinakothiki Kouvoutsaki 127
La Joya 111 Dirty Str-eat 85
Pireás 127 Dos Hermanos 130
Lykavitós Theatre 111
Pireás Archeological Eden 68
Mo Better 101
Museum 128 Edodi 121
Palenque 111
INDEX
To Háni 68 Spondi 122 The Cigar 108
Hard Rock Cafe 130 Sta Kala Kathoumena 139 Cine Paris 66
Ideal 93 Stavlos 86 Compendium 67
Ikio 110 To Steki 151 Cravaterie Nazionali 108
Ikonomou 85 To Steki tis Xanthis 100 Dimitris Vasiliou 85
Iy Ipeiros 78 To Steki tou Ilia 86 Eleftheroudakis 67, 92
Interni 85 I Taverna tou Stelara 151 Ellinko Spiti 67
Ioakeim 138 Syrtaki 139 Enny di Monaco 108
Island 130 Taÿgetos 93 Ensayar 129
Iy Stoa Tou Vangeli 78 TGI Fridays 131 Fokas 76
Jimmy and the Fish 131 Thalatta 86 Fresh Line 108
K’Askimopapo 86 O Thanasis 78 Frissiras Museum Shop 67
Kakanarakis 150 O Themistoklis 122 Galerie Zamboulaki 108
Kali Kardia 139 Time 131 Gallé 129
Kalimarmaron 121 To Voliótiko 1911 132 Giorgos Eleftheriadis 108
To Kalyvi 121 Trata 131 Glou Exclusive 129
Karathanasis 150 Tria Adhelfia 139 Gold Rose 76
Karavitis 121 Vakchos 151 Gucci 108
Karavolos 150 Vangelis 94 Hondos Centre 92
Katsarina 131 Vasilis 151 Iy Folia tou Vivliou 92
Kavouri 139 Vincenzo 132 Kaloyirou 129
Khrysa 86 Votanikos 86 Kanari 5 108
To Kioupi 110 Vrakha 139 Kendro Ellinikis Paradosis 76
Iy Klimataria 68 Vyrinis 122 Lalaounis 92
Klimataria 93 Vyzandino 69 Lambropoulos 92
To Koutouki 86 Xanthippi 122 Li-La-Lou 129
Iy Lefka 99 Xeri Elia 151 Museum of Greek Popular
Lefteris 93 Xypolitos 139 Musical Instruments 76
Taverna Leonides 150 Yambeia 151 National Welfare
Mamacas 86 Yeitoniko 151 Organization 76
Mandhra 78 Yiandes 100 Nikos Mavropoulos 76
Mandraki 150 Yoga Bala 79 Oikos 108
Masa 131 Zei 86 Petai Petai 108
Mayemenos Avlos 121 Zidhoron 79 Petridis 109
Moita 150 Zjthos 79 Preview 129
To Monastiri 93 Roman Forum 70 Road Editions 92
Monippo 131 Spyros Aravandinos 67
Mykinaiko 150 Stavros Melissinos 76
O Nafti
Nargis
Nefeli
150
93
69
S Studio Kostas Sokaras
This ‘n’ That
To Paleopoleion
77
109
108
Oasis 151 Tribos 67
Sanctuary of Demeter 137
Iy Orea Mykonos 131 Xylouris 92
Pak Indian 93 shops (by area): Yiannis Samouelian 77
Iy Palea Skala 78 Exárhia and Neápoli 98
Skhiniás 135
Palea Taverna tou Psarra 69 Kolonáki and
Lykavitós Hill 107
skiing 171
Palio Tetradhio 69 smoking 171
Panagiota 151 Monastiráki and Psyrrí 76
Pláka 66 Soúnio 133
Taverna Parnassos 151 Stoa of Attalos 60
O Pinaleon 99 Platía Omonías
and around 91 Stoa of Eumenes 58
Pinelopi kai Mnistires 121
Suburban Athens 129 Stoa of the Bears 136
O Platanos 69
Platanos 151 Thissío, Gázi and Áno Stréfis Hill 98
Taverna Platía Iróon 78 Petrálona 85 Suburban Athens map 124
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East Airport
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