When choosing a rabbit, looking at a few simple things can help ensure that your new pet is a healthy

one. Difficulty: Easy Time Required: 10 minutes Here's How: 1. 2. Look at the overall body condition - the rabbit should be neither fat nor skinny, with no swellings. The rabbit's coat should be well groomed, with no bare patches. Check for soiling aroung the rear end, as this may indicate a problem with diarrhea. Look at the ears, they should be pink, not red, and free of discharge. The ear flaps shouldn't be damaged. The eyes should be bright and free from discharge. Check the coat around the eyes for signs of wetness or tear staining. Check the nose - it should also be free of discharge. Try to get a look at the teeth, they should not be overgrown and should be well-aligned. Also check for wet or matted fur on the chin. Observe the rabbit's breathing, which should be quiet and not labored. Watch the rabbit move around - it should have no signs of lameness, stiffness, or reluctance to move around. Look at the rabbit's surroundings - a rabbit kept in clean conditions, without crowding will have less exposure to stress and disease.

3. 4. 5. 6.

7. 8. 9.

10. Observe how the rabbit reacts to people - ideally pick a rabbit that is relatively calm about being approached and petted Tips: 1. 2. Although babies are cute, there are many adult house rabbits in need of homes, so consider visiting a shelter or rescue. It is wise to resist the tempation to adopt a sickly rabbit unless prepared for the possibility of expensive treatment and possible heartbreak. When buying from a breeder, make sure they are breeding for a specific goal (e.g. temperament and health).

3.

Pet rabbits can be quite readily kept in cages in the home, with some freedom to run free in the house (after thoroughly rabbitproofing, of course). Rabbits take fairly well to litter training so many people will let their bunnies run free in the home for at least part of the day. Even if your rabbit is thoroughly toilet trained and your house thoroughly rabbit proofed, a cage will act as a safe haven or nest, where the rabbit can retreat to rest.

There are a lot of cages sold for rabbits that aren't really ideal rabbit homes, though. Some are just too small, and many have wire floors, which may make cleaning easier but doesn't provide much comfort to the bunny. How Big As usual, bigger is better. If your bunny will spend most of its time in a cage, then get the biggest cage that is practical in the home. As a general rule, the cage should be at least 4 times the size of the rabbit. A guide is 24" by 36" for smaller rabbits (less than 8 lbs.) or 30" by 36" for larger rabbits. A two story condo with a ramp joining the levels seems popular with rabbits too. Cage Design As a rule, rabbits take fairly well to being litter trained, so a solid floor is fine and not too difficult to clean. Many cages meant for rabbits are still made with wire floors over pull out pans, designed to make cleaning easier. However, wire floors (even those with very narrow spacing) can be uncomfortable and can cause sores or the hocks, so it is best to get a cage without wire floors. Wire floors should be covered with a piece of wood, or grass or sisal mats (grass mats are are nice to have in solid floored cages too, to vary the surface and provide traction). The door to the cage should be about large enough to get a litter pan (and rabbit) through easily. A side door is probably best, as a top-opening cage makes getting the rabbit in and out a little harder (and it is best if the rabbit can get in and out on its own). The opening should have smooth edges, or plastic guard strips over the edges of the wires. If you are handy, you can get fairly creative and construct your own cage. This allows a custom size to be designed. My own rabbit has a home made cage that is not ideal but works fairly well. Bedding/Litter Grass/sisal mats are a good idea for solid foored cages, too, to provide traction. Fleece blankets can also be provided. Pieces of carpet or towels also make nice mats, as long as your rabbit is not unravelling and eating them. As for other pets, cedar and pine shavings should be avoided due to concerns over the aromatic oils they release. These oils have been shown to elevate the levels of some liver enzymes, which can affect the metabolism of drugs and other compounds. If wood shavings are used at all, better alternatives include hardwood shavings such as aspen. Straw or hay is a good bedding material for rabbits. For choices for the litter box, see the section on litter training. Outdoors/Hutches While living alone in a hutch outdoors is a lonely existence for a rabbit, a house rabbit that is allowed time outdoors will likely enjoy the change of scenery and fresh air. There are several dangers in the outdoors, including predators, weather, and toxicity from herbicides, pesticides or poisonous plants. Since predators present the largest danger at night, keeping a rabbit outdoors in a hutch at night is risky, even in a city (where predators may include raccoons, cats, dogs, coyotes, hawks and more). Many of these can injure or kill a rabbit without even getting into the cage. If a rabbit is to stay outside, it should at least be in an enclosed shed, garage, or some shelter that allows complete protection. Many owners allow their rabbits outside in an enclosed pen made form a wood frame with wire on all sides (including top and bottom). This allows bunnies to spend time outside and munch on the grass (provided it is not treated with any herbicides, pesticides or other chemicals!) without burrowing out, and with protection from unwanted visitors. Shelter from sun, wind, rain, and other elements must also be provided. Fiber is vital to the normal function of the digestive system in rabbits. Fresh grass hay and vegetables should make up the bulk of the diet for house rabbits. Feeding a diet consisting mainly of pellets may result in obesity and increase the likelihood of digestive problems. While there is some fiber in pellets, it is finely ground and does not appear to stimulate intestinal function as well as fiber found in grass hays. Roughage also aids in the prevention of hair balls. The addition of some pellets does add some balance to the diet, however.

Anything other than hay, vegetables, and pellets is considered a treat and should be feed in strict moderation. The digestive system of a rabbit is very susceptible to serious upsets if the diet is inappropriate. The amount of pellets should be restricted, especially in overweight rabbits, but any reduction in pellets should be made up with a variety of fresh vegetables and unlimited access to hay. Hay Hay (grass hays such as timothy or oat hay) should be available at all times. Some rabbits may not take much hay at first. Adding fresh hay a couple of times a day may help, and as the amount of pellets is reduced the rabbit will likely become hungry enough to eat the hay. The House Rabbit Society recommends starting baby bunnies on alfalfa hay and introducing grass hays by 6-7 months, gradually decreasing the alfalfa until the rabbit is solely on grass hays by 1 year. Alfalfa hay is higher in calcium and protein and lower fiber than the grass hays, although many owners find their rabbits prefer alfalfa hays. If your adult rabbit is used to alfalfa hay, try mixing alfalfa with a grass hay to start and gradually reduce the amount of alfalfa. Vegetables Vegetable should make up a large portion of the diet. Depending on the size of the rabbit, 2-4 cups of fresh veggies should be given per day. A variety must be fed daily to ensure a balanced diet. If a rabbit is used to eating mainly pellets, the change must be made gradually to allow the rabbit's digestive system time to adjust. Only add one new vegetable to the diet at a time so if the rabbit has diarrhea or other problems it will be possible to tell which vegetable is the culprit. Suggested vegetable include carrots, carrot tops, parsley, broccoli, collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, turnip greens, endive, romaine lettuce, kale and spinach. However, kale, spinach and mustard greens are high in oxalates so their feeding should be limited to 3 meals per week. Beans, cauliflower, cabbage, and potatoes may cause problems and should be avoided. Iceberg lettuce has almost no nutritional value so should be avoided. Rhubarb should also be avoided (toxicity). Wash vegetables well, and only feed dandelions that are known to be pesticide free (try a health food store for organically grown dandelion greens). Vegetables should be introduced to bunnies around 12 weeks of age, in small quantities and one at a time. As more vegetable are added watch for diarrhea and discontinue the most recently added vegetable if this occurs. Over time, the amount of vegetables fed is increased, and the amount of pellets decreased, so that by 1 year of age the adult feeding recommendations are followed. Pellets Pellets are basically designed for commercial rabbit production, and are quite high in calories. As a result, house rabbits fed unlimited pellets may end up with obesity and related health problems, as well as an excess of other nutrients. Pellets do have a place in rabbit nutrition, as they are rich and balanced in nutrients. However, experts recommend restricting the amoung of pellets fed, and compensating with fresh vegetables (see below) and grass hays. Choose a fresh, good quality pellet. The House Rabbit Society recommends a minimum of 20-25% fiber, around 14% protein (with no animal protein), and less than 1% Calcium for most house rabbits (spayed/neutered). For adults, the amount should be carefully regulated, depending on the size (weight) of the rabbit. As a rule, give about 1/4 cup for rabbits 5-7 lb, 1/2 cup for 8-10 lb rabbits, and 3/4 cup for 11-15b lb rabbits. Baby rabbits can be fed pellets free choice (available at all times), decreasing to 1/2 cup per 6 lb. of body weight by around 6 months. Treats The House Rabbit Society recommends 1-2 tablespoons of fresh fruits be given daily as a treat. Treats sold in pet stores marketed for rabbits are generally unnecessary and in some cases could cause digestive problems due to their high carbohydrate or sugar content. Instead of food treats, consider offering twigs from apple or willow trees (pesticide-free only).

Many owners are surprised to find out how playful their rabbits are. Most rabbits will appreciate a selection of fun toys, which can be as simple as a cardboard box or empty paper towel roll. Toys will help keep your rabbit physically active and prevent boredom. A bored rabbit is much more likely to become destructive or even depressed and overweight. Deprived of

toys and play things, your rabbit may turn to your furniture and other belongings as chew toys, or even dangerous things like electrical cords. Experiment with a variety of toys to find out what is entertaining to your rabbit, and continue to provide new toys (or at least rotate the ones he/she has). While a good selection of toys will help keep your rabbit away from things you do not want him or her chewing on, the toys you provide must be safe too. If your rabbit is interested in eating one type (e.g. plastic, cardboard, etc.) of toy, switch to another type. Watch for soft rubber items or plastic parts that can be eaten and cause gastrointestinal problems or blockages. While your rabbit will likely enjoy shredding paper and cardboard, make sure he/she is not ingesting much of it. A huge variety of items can make good rabbit toys. You might not find them marketed as rabbit toys, and some are things you will have around the house. Be creative and pay attention to how your rabbit seems to like to play, and you may come up with ideas of your own (just pay close attention to safety). Some ideas: cardboard tubes from toilet paper and paper towel rolls paper bags cardboard boxes (especially a closed box with two or three rabbit sized entrance holes cut in the sides) cardboard concrete forms or large PVC pipes for tunnels (make sure bunny can't get stuck!) untreated wicker baskets or other wicker items (a wicker tunnel other items are available at the online stores listed below) hard plastic cat balls with a bell inside (make sure your bunny isn't chewing up and swallowing the plastic though) hard plastic baby toys such as rings, links, keys, rattles, etc. parrot toys and bells kitty condos (the shorter ones), tunnels, platforms towels small straw whisk broom straw balls ( you can get the ones meant as hamster houses; for added enjoyment fill with timothy hay) box full of shredded paper (preferably ink free - you can sometimes get unprinted newsprint roll ends from the local newspaper printer) fresh branches from apple trees dried pine cones large rubber ball See Top Ten Toys For Rabbits to see recommendations for some of the best rabbit toys available online.

There are a couple of online stores that carry wonderful bunny toys. I have no affiliation with either of these, nor have I ordered from them, but they come recommended by readers.

Bunny Bytes: Outfitters of the Urban Rabbit - great selection of toys and other rabbit supplies and items. Leith Petwerks - a great section devoted to fun rabbit toys (along with excellent cages and other supplies). Busy Bunny - offers some really neat wicker items for rabbits as well as treats and other items. Pet Rabbit Toys - great play centers and other ingenious wood and sisal toys for bunnies (and other small pets).

Thumping: When a rabbit thumps or stomps on the ground with a hind leg, it can make a surprisingly loud noise. This is the way rabbits commuicate danger to other rabbits, and sometimes it is a sign of annoyance. Interpretation: "I'm scared and nervous" or "I'm annoyed with you." Teeth Grinding: Gentle, soft grinding of the teeth in a relaxed rabbit is communicates contentment (and sounds almost like a cat purring). On the other hand, loud teeth grinding is a sign of pain or discomfort, and your rabbit will often also be tense or hunched up when this occurs. Interpretation: softly grinding teeth: "This is great" Loudly grinding teeth: "Oooh, I'm in pain and I don't feel good" (this also means a trip to the vet is in order as soon as possible) Chin Rubbing: You may witness your rabbit rubbing its chin on objects or even people. Rabbits have scent glands on their chins that they use to scent mark territories and objects (the scent is not detectable by people, though, the scent is strictly for rabbit communication). Interpretation: "This is mine!" Binky:

The binky is the unique and acrobatic jump accompanied by twisting the body or kicking the legs. Rabbits use the binky to communicate that they are feeling very happy and playful. Interpretation: "Life is Great! I'm so Happy!" Licking : A bunny that licks you has fully accepted you and is showing you affection. Interpretation: "I like you" Circling Your Feet: A rabbit that follows you around circling your feet may just be trying to get your attention, but more likely your rabbit is sexually mature and is courting you (especially if accompanied by soft honking or oiking noises). Interpretation: Usually mean "I'm in love with you" and means it is time to get bunnyspayed or neutered. Sometimes simply means "Here I am, let's play." Flat Rabbit: When a rabbit flattens itself on its belly with its head down and ears held very flat, he or she is frightened and is trying to blend into his or her surroundings. (Note: a relaxed rabbit may also lay flat, but a relaxed rabbit has different body language: relaxed muscles and expression.) Interpretation: "I'm scared!" Flopping : A content rabbit that is sitting still or grooming may suddenly flop onto its side and lay still. Owners often fear something dire has happened, but it is a sign of utter relaxation. Interpretation: "oh, I'm just so relaxed." Lunging: A sudden movement towards you with the head up, tail up and ears back is a very clear form of rabbit communication: an unmistakable threat. Interpreation: "I don't like that, back off!" Vocalizations:

Rabbits are capable of some vocalizations that they use for communication, which sometimes surprise owners. Here are their interpretations: Soft Squeal or Whimper: mild annoyance or displeasure. Grunting, Growling, Snorting, and Hissing: all communicate varied stages of anger, stress, or feeling threatened. May be followed with a lunge or bite. Soft Honking or Oinking: commuicates sexual interest. If your rabbit is circling you and honking, it is time for neutering. Screaming: sign of extreme pain or fear. Do not ignore; reassure your rabbit and if there is no obvious reason your rabbit might be terrified, take your bunny to a vet. Of course, rabbit body language is much more complex than what I have presented here. Rabbits communicate much information by how they position and move their bodies, and an experienced owner can learn to read their rabbit's signals quite well.

Rabbits usually take well to litter training, although some flexibility may be required by the owner. Rabbits naturally pick one or more toilet areas, and owners can take advantage of this in litter training. The Litter First a suitable litter is needed. You rabbit will probably like to lay in the litter box and may even nibble on the litter, so something absorbent and safe is necessary. Rabbit urine also has a strong odor, so something that absorbs odor is ideal. Do not use clay or clumping litters, or cedar or pine wood shavings. Organic or paper-based pellets and litters are a good choice (brands include Critter Country, Eco-Straw Pellets, Gentle Touch, Cell-Sorb Plus and Yesterday's News - see Top Alternatives to Cedar and Pine Shavings for more options) Some owners simply use rabbit pellets as litter. These are economical and safe, but are not a good choice if your rabbit continually eats extra pellets from the litter box and/or is overweight. The Box For litter pans, cat litter boxes work pretty well, although smaller pans such as cake pans may work for smaller rabbits. If your rabbit tends to back right up to the edge and deposit outside the box, some creativity may be required. A covered cat box is a good option, or a dishpan that has higher sides can work as well (an lower entry can be cut into one side). The larger size of corner litter boxes might work well for smaller rabbits too, as these usually have fairly high backs. If our rabbit tends to tip the pan or kick the litter out, try a heavier litter.

Steps to Litter Training To start, confinement and supervision is the key. If a rabbit is allowed to urinate and defecate wherever it likes from the beginning, it will be much harder to train. At first, keep your rabbit primairly in his (or her cage), which should be fairly small at first, with a litter pan. Place a litter box in the cage, and note where you rabbit eliminates. He (she) may start using the box, or may be pick another corner of the cage as a toilet. If this is the case, then move the litter box to the area your rabbit seems to prefer. Flexibility on litter box placement may be necessary both in and out of the cage. Once your rabbit is using the litter pan in the cage, allow the rabbit out of the cage in a limited area. Provide a litter box within this area, and perhaps make it enticing by placing a a treat or favorite toy in the box. Watch your rabbit for signs he is about to urinate or defecate (they usually back up and lift their tail slightly), and try to herd him to the box immediately (if your rabbit is very calm about being picked up it should be okay to place him right in the box). If your rabbit uses the box, give the rabbit a treat (food, toy, petting, or praise) right away. If you notice your rabbit tends to head to one area to do its business, consider putting the box here. Accidents will happen, and punishment has no place in training a rabbit. Your rabbit will absolutely not be able to make a connection with physical punishment and elimitnating outside the litter box. If you catch your rabbit in the act calmly and gently take him or her to the litter box immediately. But, if your don't physically catch your rabbit urinating or defecating, it is too late for your rabbit to make the connection. Just clean up and watch your rabbit a little more closely next time (clean the spot diluted vinegar, or a commercial pet stain/odor remover). The key is to get your rabbit to the box before he goes, so a trip to the litter box every 10 minutes during playtime can be helpful. Over time, your rabbit will probably develop a preference for using the box, and amount of freedom you give your rabbit can be increased. You may need to provide more boxes as you allow your rabbit acces to more space (rabbits may not go far in search of a box so have them handy). Again, if your rabbit repeatedly chooses one place in he room to eliminate, consider putting or moving a litter box there. Try to work with what your rabbit naturally wants to do, but if the location they "choose" is inconvenient, you can try putting a litter box there for a while and then gradually move it to a better spot. Sometimes, placing a bowl of food where you don't want them to go works too. The process sounds daunting, but usually goes pretty smoothly as long as the owner works with the rabbit's natural tendencies and provides undivided attention to the rabbit during it's free time in the beginning. Establishing a routine with your rabbit will also help. Sometimes a previously trained rabbit will get a little careless, and this usually means backtracking and restricting freedom until your rabbit is trained again.

Older rabbits are usually easier to train than young bunnies, as they do not need to eliminate as frequently and their natural desire for cleanliness is more developed. However, once rabbits hit puberty the desire to mark territory becomes very strong, and even previously well trained rabbits will may start urine marking and spraying as well as defecating to mark its territory. Marking behavior will often result from a variety of stresses along with the natural instict to stake out a territory. Urine marking does not always take the form of spraying, and both males and females mark, although it is far more common with intact males (not neutered). Tips to Reduce Territory Marking

Have your rabbit spayed or neutered by 4-6 months of age. This has many health benefits for your rabbit, and will also make litter training easier and reduce urine spraying and other marking behaviors. Getting the surgery done at a young age works best - once marking becomes an established behavior it may be very diffiuclt to litter train the rabbbit. Make sure the rabbit feels secure in its home. Try to avoid reaching into the cage and pulling a rabbit out as this may make the rabbit feel threatened and more likely to mark, and do cage maintenance (cleaning the cage etc.) while the rabbit is out of the cage.

Sometimes territorial marking is a temporary situation, and may occur in response to some sort of stress, change in routine, change in the household, or addition of another pet (particuarlarly another rabbit). Often, once the rabbit no longer feels stressed or is confident his territory is secure, he (or she) will stop marking. With all that said, rabbits are prone to health problems with their urinary tract, so if there is a sudden persistent change in urination habits or the color and amount of urine, a trip to a veterinarian is in order. This is especially true if your rabbit starts urinating small amounts frequently (most rabbits urinate infrequently and in large volumes).

Rabbits like to chew, and the most important task in rabbit proofing is to make sure there is nothing dangerous within your rabbit's reach. You will also want to protect your belongings from your rabbit. You will have to decide how much freedom your bunny will have. This might depend on your bunny's age, training, and the level of supervision you can provide. Some bunnies are given access to most of the house, but many owners prefer to limit their rabbit to a single room for out-of-the-cage time. Even if you want to give your bunny full access to

your house, you might want start off confining him or her to a single room until bunny is litter trained and you have gotten a handle on chewing and other undesirable behaviors. Get Down To Your Bunny's Level One of the most helpful ways to identify what might attract your rabbit's attention is to get on your hands and knees and look at the house from that perspective. From there you might spot hazards and spaces that you normally wouldn't notice. Electrical and Phone Cords These are seemingly irresistible to many rabbits. Because of the risk of elecrocution to your rabbit and your home's safety, it is imperative that electrical cords are out of reach. It may be possible to arrange the furniture in your room to hide most electrical cords (but don't run them under carpets due to fire risk). Any that cannot be hidden should be covered. Plastic tubing with a slit down one side in available to encase wires, or you can find different diameters of tubing at hardware and pond supply stores (which you can slit with a utility knife). You can also get hard plastic wire channels that attach neatly to the floor or baseboard. For determined rabbits you might even need to go to PVC tubing to protect wires. Have a look at many options for hiding wires at CableOrganizers.com. You can treat phone cords the same way. Houseplants Houseplants should be kept out of reach to prevent rabbits from eating them and/or digging in the soil. Make sure your houseplants are non toxic; even if the plant is out of reach, leaves may fall where your rabbit can eat them. Check this list of poisonous plantsfrom the San Diego Chapter of the House Rabbit Society, and remove any that are of concern. Chewing Rabbits will try to chew anything. As mentioned previously, cords are a favorite target, but rabbits will also chew furniture (expecially wooden legs), baseboards, books, carpet edges, and anything else that appeals to them. Try to block access to any favorite chewing targets. Wooden furniture legs can be wrapped in heavy plastic or tin foil to discourage chewing. Carpets should be securely tacked down, especially in corners and at doorways. If your rabbit starts chewing, you can cover the carpet in trouble areas with plexiglass, plastic carpet protectors meant to go under office chairs, a piece of furniture, or untreated grass mats. Heavy slipcovers or blankets can be used to protect couches and chairs. Make sure books, treasured knick knacks, shoes, and other chewables are kept out of reach. Also make sure your rabbit can't get into your garbage cans or waste baskets. Distraction and redirection to appropriate chew toys are used to teach rabbits not to chew; see "How Can I Stop my Rabbit From Chewing Everything in Sight?" for more ideas. Digging Rabbits also love digging, and may do significant damage to carpets or furniture from

this activity. Favorite spots seem to be corners and under closed doors, although your rabbit may try to dig anywhere. Deal with digging behaviors in much the same way as chewing: block off problem areas, cover favorite spots with plexiglass, plastic mats, or untreated grass mats, and make sure carpets are securely tacked down. More on digging behavior can be found in "How Can I Stop my Rabbit From Digging Up the Carpet?." Hiding Spots Rabbits like to get into tight spaces. They like to hide under furniture and beds, but sometimes they chew and climb up into the underside of these items, so you may need to tack a piece of plywood to the underside of your boxspring mattress or use wood to block access to the underside of furniture. Appliances should be inaccessible, as rabbits can get under or behind them and become injured, stuck, or chew on the wires. Also block any other tight spaces in which your bunny could get stuck, and make sure there are no spaces throught which your rabbit could escape. Question: How Can I Train My Rabbit Not to Chew Everything in Sight? Chewing is a very natural and needed behavior for rabbits -- the key is to teach them what is appropriate for chewing and what is off-limits. Answer: 1. Provide Alternatives Since your rabbit needs to chew, first you need to provide a good variety of alternatives on which your rabbit can safely chew. Branches from apple or willow trees, safe rabbit toys, untreated willow baskets and toys, untreated grass mats, and cardboard all make good alternatives. Providing multiple items gives your rabbit more choice and if you have different sizes and types of chew toys around, chances are one of them will satisfy your rabbit's craving to chew. Of course, you should also provide your rabbit with a couple of safe chew toys in the cage as well. A variety items to help keep your rabbit occupied can be found in "Rabbit Toys." 2. Rabbit-Proof Your Home Good rabbit-proofing takes away much of the temptation and opportunity to get into trouble. Don't give your rabbit free run of your home, at least not at first: pick a limited space and thoroughly rabbit-proof that space to make training easier. Things like electrical wires are very dangerous for your rabbit so you must make sure there is no way your rabbit can get to them in the first place. Furniture and other belongings should also be protected. The less your rabbit can demolish, the less frustrated you will be, and training will be smoother. See "Rabbit-Proofing Your Home" for more strategies. 3. Supervise and Redirect Your rabbit doesn't instinctively know that he is not allowed to chew on your furniture and other belongings, so you must teach him. This means when you are starting out with a new rabbit, you must watch your rabbit carefully at playtime. Make sure you start this

training as soon as you bring your rabbit home, so no bad habits get started. Whenever your rabbit tries to chew something he/she should not, say "no" firmly (no need to yell) and clap your hands, and then give your rabbit an appropriate chew toy. 4. Have Patience Your rabbit will take time to learn, and he or she will probably test you along the way, so be patient but consistent. Never hit your rabbit. If your rabbit keeps going back to your things instead of chewing on her toys, put your bunny in a "time-out" in the cage for a few minutes. Another alternative is to use an exercise pen (collapsible, portable cage for dogs) for at least part of playtime outside of the cage, so you can relax on supervision and training a bit. As your rabbit gets older and settles down, chewing will become less of an issue, but consistency and patience right from the beginning is your biggest training advantage. 5. Spay and Neuter Spaying or neutering rabbits helps make them less prone to destructive behavior, including chewing. Note: about Bitter Apple Spray and other Deterrents: You can try using a bitter apple spray (available at pet stores) on items your rabbit likes to chew. Many rabbits don't mind the taste, though (and some even seem to like it), so while this may be worth a try, is often not effective. If it does work with your rabbit, the spray must be re-applied frequently.

Question: Help! My Rabbit is Digging in the Carpet - What Can I Do? Digging is a natural behavior for rabbits. To keep house rabbits from digging up your carpet and other destructive behaviors, you need to give your rabbit something in which he or she can dig, and teach your rabbit what is off-limits. Answer: 1. Provide Alternatives Since your rabbit has a natural urge to dig, make sure your provide something in which your rabbit is freely allowed to dig. Make your rabbit a digging box out of a large, fairly deep cardboard box (cut one side lower or make a hole to allow your rabbit to get into the box). Make a thick layer of shredded paper, hay, or even soil (may be messy) in the box for digging. You can even hide a couple of toys or treats in the box for added interest. Smaller boxes or litter pans with shredded paper or had can also be offered for additional digging opportunities. Untreated grass and sisal mats are also great for satifying your rabbit's urge to dig.

2. Rabbit Proof Your Home Protect places in your home where your rabbit likes to dig (corners and under doors seem to be attractive to many rabbits). You can put down plexiglass, plastic floor mats (like those for under office chairs), linoleum, floor tiles, heavy mats (like entrance mats), grass mats, or move furniture to cover or block areas your rabbit favors. If your rabbit wants to dig at your furniture, cover it with heavy throws or blankets. Don't give your rabbit free run of your home, at least not at first: pick a limited space and thoroughly rabbit-proof that space to make training easier. 3. Supervise and Redirect Your rabbit doesn't instinctively know that she is not allowed to dig on your floor or furniture, so you must teach her. When you are starting out with a new rabbit, watch your rabbit carefully at playtime. Make sure you start this training as soon as you bring your rabbit home, so no bad habits get started. Whenever your rabbit tries to dig where he should not, say "no" firmly but calmly, clap your hands (or stamp your foot on the ground) to get bunny's attention, and then take your rabbit to his digging box. 4. Have Patience It will take time for your message to sink in, so be patient but consistent. Never hit your rabbit. If your rabbit keeps going back to your things instead of digging in her box, put your bunny in a "time-out" in the cage for a few minutes. Another alternative is to use an exercise pen (collapsible, portable cage for dogs), placed on a sheet of linoleum to protect your floor, for at least part of playtime outside of the cage. As your rabbit gets older and settles down, digging should become less of an issue. 5. Spay and Neuter Spaying or neutering rabbits helps make them less prone to destructive behavior, including digging and chewing.

Rabbits are typically fastidiously clean animals, and spend a good deal of time grooming themselves. While this means they usually do not need baths, regular brushing helps keep their coat in good condition and help prevents hairballs. Brushing If you have a short haired rabbit, it is a good idea to brush them at least once a week. When they are shedding (they usually shed about every 3 months), more frequent brushing is recommended. During the heavy part of a shed, daily brushing is ideal. Keep in mind that rabbit skin is quite fragile, so be gentle and use a brush designed for rabbits if possible (bristle brushes are preferable; metal toothed slicker may hurt their skin). A fine toothed comb can also be used. Following up with a rubber grooming tool such as a Zoom Groom (see this one at LeithPetwerks, or check the cat section at your pet store)

can help clean up loose hair too, or try running a damp (not wet) washcloth over the coat after brushing. If you have an Angora rabbit, grooming must be a daily ritual. Unless you are showing your long haired rabbit, it is easiest to keep the coat trimmed to a length of about 1 inch or else the coat will be very prone to matting and your rabbit prone to hairballs ("wool block"). You can trim it yourself or get a groomer to do it and just do touch-up trims at home. You must be very careful about trimming hair though since rabbit skin is quite thin and easy to cut accidentally. With these rabbits, daily brushing should become part of the daily routine from a young age (it is a good chance to bond with your bunny, too). Always be careful about trimming the hair over a rabbit's hocks however, or sores may result. Removing Matted Hair If your rabbit does develop mats in its coat, never try to trim them out with scissors as it is very easy to accidentally cut into the skin doing this. Gradually work out the mat by gently separating and combing hair out of the mat a tiny bit at a time, being careful not to pull on the skin. It may take several grooming sessions to work out a mat. Alternatively, you can take your rabbit to a groomer to have the mats trimmed out with electric clippers. Does My Rabbit Need Baths? No. Rabbits do not need baths and generally find them very stressful. If absolutely necessary it is better to just do a "spot cleaning" of the area that is dirty rather than subjecting a rabbit to the stress of bathing. If it is absolutely necessary to bathe your rabbit, keep in mind that it takes rabbit fur a long time to dry and it is a good idea to use a blow dryer (on a warm, never hot, setting) to speed the process. Rabbits are prone to overheating, so be cautious. It is best to avoid baths if possible. Nail Trims Regular nail trims should also be part of the grooming routine. Check the nails once a week when grooming and trim them whenever they get a bit long. I find it is better to do frequent trims even if you are only trimming a sliver off than wait until the nail is quite long and trying to judge how much to remove. Detailed steps to nail trims can be found in "How to Trim Your Rabbit's Nails" and an illustration and more tips can be found in "Nail Trims." Rabbits are generally pretty hardy, but these are some common questions about health related concerns in pet rabbits: How do I Find a Good Rabbit Vet? - finding a veterinarian experienced with rabbits can be difficult but is well worth the trouble. It is a good idea to have a veterinarian

you are comfortable well before you need one so you are not left scrambling in case of emergency. Should I Spay or Neuter My Rabbit? - in short the answer is yes, but this answer includes several reasons why it is a good idea and why you need to find the right vet to do the surgery. At What Age should I Spay or Neuter? - your vet will have recommendations that suit your bunny personally but here are general guidelines. Isn't Surgery Risky for Rabbits? - you may have heard that surgery is dangerous in rabbits and the answer to this question is is related to question number 1. How do I Prevent Hairballs? - the answer is more complicated than just grooming. Is my Rabbit Supposed to Eating His or Her Feces? - a common question, because it sometimes shocks new bunny owners if they see this!

Living with a House Rabbit Why a House Rabbit? Perhaps you've just adopted your first rabbit, or maybe you already have a rabbit and would like more information to help you understand her better. The House Rabbit Society, a national nonprofit organization, recommends that you keep your rabbit in the house rather than outdoors. Rabbits are intelligent, social animals who need affection, and they can become wonderful companion animals if given a chance to interact with their human families.

The benefits of spay and neuter Although most rabbits will use a litterbox, hormones may cause unneutered males and unspayed females to "mark territory." Spaying or neutering your rabbit improves litterbox habits, lessens chewing behavior, decreases territorial aggression, and gives your rabbit a happier, longer life. Have your rabbit neutered between ages 3 1/2 to 6 months, depending on sexual maturity, by an experienced rabbit veterinarian. For rabbits more than 2 years old, get a veterinary checkup first. Housetraining

Rabbits may have free run of the home. However, it's best for most--and necessary for some--to start with a cage. To make cage time learning time, fasten a litterbox in the corner of the cage that your rabbit chooses for a "bathroom." As soon as he uses the box consistently, you can give him some freedom. Place one or more large litterboxes in corners of the running area outside the cage. Use only positive reinforcement (treats and praise)--never punishment. Bunny-proofing Bunny-proofing your home is part of living with a house rabbit. It is natural for rabbits to chew on furniture, rugs, drapes, and, most deadly of all, electrical cords. Cords must be concealed so that the rabbit cannot reach them. Exposed cords can be encased in vinyl tubing (found at hardware stores). By splitting the tubing lengthwise with a utility knife the cord can be pushed inside it. Give your rabbit enough attention, safe chewables, and toys, so that she is distracted from chewing furniture and rugs. A cardboard box stuffed with hay makes an inexpensive playbox. Young rabbits (under a year) are more inclined to mischief and require more confinement and/or bunny-proofing than mature rabbits. House rabbits and other animals House rabbits and indoor cats can get along fine, as do rabbits and wellmannered dogs. Dogs should be trained to respond to commands before being trusted with a free-running rabbit, and supervision is needed to control a dog's playful impulses (this is especially true for puppies). Adding a second rabbit is easiest if the rabbits are neutered adults of opposite sexes, and they are introduced for short periods in an area unfamiliar to both rabbits. Major Health Problems Intestinal blockages: Because rabbits groom themselves constantly, they get furballs just as cats do. Unlike cats, however, rabbits cannot vomit, and excessive swallowed hair may cause a fatal blockage. Rabbits can also develop a serious condition known as GI stasis which has many of the same symptoms. If your rabbit shows a decrease in appetite and in the size of droppings, get advice from a rabbit veterinarian. Prevention: keep bunny brushed (less hair is swallowed); provide exercise time/space--at least 30 hours a week; give a fresh handful of hay daily; add fresh vegetables gradually to the diet; give petroleum laxatives during a heavy molt or if synthetics have been swallowed. Bacterial balance: A rabbit's digestive tract is inhabited by healthful bacteria. If the "good" bacteria balance is upset by stale food or a sudden change in diet, harmful bacteria can take over the digestive track and kill the rabbit.

Prevention: Keep all rabbit food in a cool dry place and make dietary changes slowly, giving a new food in small amounts. If no abdominal gurgling or loose stool results in 24 hours, the food may be offered again. If your rabbit goes outside, check for pesticides and toxic plants. (A list is available from your local poison center.) Infectious bacteria: Many rabbit diseases are caused by bacteria, not viruses, and can be treated with antibiotics. If your rabbit shows symptoms of a "cold," take him to a veterinarian familiar with antibiotics that can be safely used in rabbits. Oral drugs of the Penicillin family, such as Amoxicillin, should NOT be given to a rabbit, since there is risk of destroying good intestinal bacteria. It's up to you Find an experienced rabbit doctor before a problem develops. If your rabbit has been harassed by a predator, take him to a veterinarian even if no injuries are apparent. When it is over, keep your rabbit cool with nearby wet towels or ice. Regularly check eyes, nose, ears, teeth, weight, appetite, and droppings. Danger Signs Don't waste valuable time Call your veterinarian immediately if you see: Diarrhea with listlessness Sudden loss of appetite with bloat and abdominal gurgling Loss of appetite with labored breathing Loss of appetite with runny nose Head tilt Incontinence (urine-soaked rear legs) Abscesses, lumps or swellings anywhere Any sudden behavior change Have List HOUSING Roomy cage Resting board Litterbox (in cage) Pellet bowl or feeder Water bottle/crock Toys (chew & toss) Pet carrier RUNNING SPACE Indoors: Bunny-proofed room(s)

Litterbox Toys (chew & dig) Outdoors: Fenced patio/porch/playpen (with floor) CONSUMABLES Limited pellets daily Fresh water Hay /straw (for digestive fiber and chewing recreation) Fresh salad veggies/fruit (add gradually) Barley/oats (verysmall amounts) Wood (for chewing recreation) Multiple enzymes (digestive aid) Petroleum laxative (when needed for passing hair) GROOMING Flea comb Brush Flea products safe for rabbits (no Frontline!) Toenail clippers SUPPLIES Dust-free litter (not wood shavings) Pooper scooper Whiskbroom/dustpan White vinegar (for urine accidents) Hand vacuum Chlorine bleach (for disinfecting) Newspapers

Approaching a Rabbit
The safest initial approach with rabbits is to begin by stroking the top of the head. Do not offer your hand for a bunny to sniff the way you would to a dog, because most seem to find this gesture offensive and may attack (lightening-fast lunge with a snort). Most buns also do not like having the tips of their noses or chins touched. Their feet also tend to be ticklish.

Hypnosis
Often a bunny can be "hypnotized" by cradling him on his back in your arms or across your lap, tipping the head backwards until he's "out." It's helpful to do this when cleaning bunny's sensitive areas, like the face. feet, or under the tail. If the hind feet seem to be vibrating, touching them will stop it.

Lifting
Bunnies should not be lifted by the ears or scruff. See the House Rabbit Society handout, "Getting off the Ground," for safe ways to lift and carry rabbits.

A tenth-year update and review of the techniques that have been most useful in housetraining rabbits. The litterbox is the rabbit's passport to a new life. Litterboxes get rabbits out of the hutch and into the house, underfoot, where they belong. In order to work its magic, the litterbox needs some help from the human members of the warren. Setting Up for Success Rabbits learn, about litterboxes and other issues, by doing the right thing and being rewarded, not by making mistakes and being scolded. Structure her environment so that she can do only the right thing, and then praise and reward her. Two essential skills in training are vigilant observation and impeccable timing. Pay close attention to her, and Speedo will tell you when and where she plans to eliminate. You'll notice that she always eliminates within a few seconds of coming out of her cage, or after she's made her initial inspection of her running space. Many

rabbits use body language to announce their plans. She may back into a corner, begin to raise her tail, and relax her ears slightly. She may simply hop to the spot where she urinated yesterday. With this information, you can avoid no-win, reprimand situations by making sure she heads straight for a box at these times. That's where impeccable timing comes in. It's no good getting her to her box after she's urinated or defecated, or that's what you'll be teaching her: to go to her box after she eliminates. Place a litterbox in her preferred toilet spot(s). Put one just outside the cage door. Place a small slice of apple, a pinch or two of alfalfa hay, or a sprig of parsley in the box. Food is not the only reward available for training. Instead of parsley, put a favorite toy in the litterbox. Place a box just outside (or just inside, depending on your rabbit's routines) favorite rooms or areas. Pet and talk to her while she's in the box, if she considers these experiences rewarding. Just about anything Speedo values (other than no-nos like cord-chewing) can be used as a reward. Punishment and reprimands have no place in housetraining. You want Speedo to associate the litterbox with all things tasty and wonderful, not with reprimands and punishment. If she's making a few mistakes, that's part of learning. Stock up on paper towels, and get out the broom and dustpan. If she's making lots of mistakes, she probably has too much freedom and not enough supervision. Give her as much freedom as she's able to handle, and confine her the rest of the time. Among the many behavioral and health reasons to spay/neuter your rabbit, housetraining ranks very high. Unneutered rabbits have difficulty adapting to life in a human household. A female who is going through a false pregnancy (or, worse, a real one) has other things on her mind than using the litterbox. Both males and females feel a strong hormonal need to mark territory (i.e., your furniture, your possessions,

and you) with urine and feces. You should see an improvement in housetraining within 2-3 weeks of having your male bunny neutered. With females, the behavioral benefits may take several months to be noticeable. More and Less A cardinal rule of litterbox training is: more is better. The more time your rabbit spends in a plastic tray filled with rabbit-safe litter, the more accustomed to using a box he will become. It doesn't matter whether he's actually eliminating in the box or simply sitting in it. Many rabbits even sleep in their litterbox. Conversely, every time he eliminates outside a litterbox, that behavior is becoming habitual. This is why prevention, through supervision and confinement, plays such a major role in training. The second rule is: less is better. Less running area while she's in training, that is. Free-run time for a rabbit who is not yet housetrained should be limited to a single room that is plentifully supplied with litterboxes. Once again you are setting her up to succeed by putting her in a situation where it's easy for her to do what you want her to do. Don't worry that having more than one right place to eliminate will confuse her. You will be able to reduce the number of boxes as Speedo matures and develops the habit of using a litterbox. Until she's trained, your rabbit should be confined to her cage whenever you're not there to supervise. You can use a small room such as a laundry room or bathroom, or a hallway blocked off with baby-gates as a confinement area if you prefer. A litterbox inside the cage is essential. It provides passive training to support and continue the active training you do when you're supervising free-run time. You may need to enlarge the cage door in order to get a litterbox through it. This is easily accomplished with wire cutters and a crimper. If your rabbit is the type who likes to redecorate her living quarters, anchor the box in place with pony-clips or wire. Time Is on Your Side This is the magic final ingredient. If you supply the praise, treats, patience, supervision, cage-time, surgery, and litterboxes, time will do the rest. With the proper combination of these elements, one morning you'll wake to find yourself enjoying the inimitable experience of sharing your home with a genuine, ineffable

house rabbit. Enjoy. Two Way Streets Like many of our behavior and health articles, this one deals in generalities. Here are a few case histories to illustrate how the general principles of housetraining can be modified to suit very specific rabbits. Jasmine taught me that some rabbits need two boxes in the cage. She used her first box exclusively for sleeping, and consistently, carefully eliminated in the corner farthest from the litterbox. When I moved the box to this chosen corner, she slept in the box and eliminated in the new farthest corner. It took me a while to catch on, but at last I placed a second box in her cage. Even though the boxes took up most of the floor space in her cage, she didn't seem to mind the arrangement. I put a resting shelf above one of the boxes to maximize the space. She continued to use box 1 for naps, meditation, and grooming, and the new box as a toilet. She soon had full house-rabbit status, and now her cage door is always open. I learned important lessons from our threesome. Albert and Henry eliminated while munching hay from the hayrack, while Hershey used the box of straw that I thought was a playing and digging area, as a litterbox. I now place a handful of straw on top of the litter and a handful of hay in a corner of every box. The straw keeps the litter from scattering all over the room, and it remains relatively dry, as the moisture is held by the litter layer below. And then there were the California Girls, four otherwise unassuming sisters with a single mission: to claim our bed and sofa as their territory. Their litterbox habits were otherwise impeccable. They felt so strongly about these two spots that it made me wonder what makes couches and beds so attractive that even mellow rabbits want to mark them? Could it be they are picking up on how we feel about these places? For me, anyway, the sofa and bed are very important parts of my territory. I experience lots of big emotions on them. I spend a lot of time on them. They hold my scent more than, say, my desk, does (a truly bossy bun will of course mark my desk if she can get to it). I become more upset when my bed is peed on than when my desk is the target. This reaction confirms the rabbit's impression that the bed and couch are highly valuable real estate. I was partly successful in solving this by temporarily putting a litterbox at one end of

the couch while bunnyproofing (I used tin foil, which many rabbits dislike) the rest of it. This worked with Shasta and Sierra. Mariposa chose to urinate next to the box. I thought this might mean that she was a little less unassuming than her sisters. If she's drawn to the sofa because she views it as my declared territory which she wants as her own, I'll "claim" a litterbox area on the floor as my territory. I toyed with the idea of marking it the way bunnies mark, but couldn't quite bring myself to do it. I settled for sitting on the floor next to a litterbox, which contained special treats (banana), during the girls' most active times. I was proud of this reasoning, and I felt only mildly ridiculous in carrying it out. Unfortunately it had zero impact on Mariposa or Noe, who continued to mark the sofa. I was unsuccessful in bunnyproofing the bed, mostly because I was unwilling to make it unappealing to our cats, who spend at least as much time there as I do. In the end I relocated the Girls to the kitchen-and-sunporch area. A pair of geriatric brothers who couldn't scale bed or sofa moved into the bedroom and living room. Sometimes a pragmatic, less than perfect solution is the best I can do.

8.1 Introduction
By nature, rabbits choose one or a few places (usually corners) to deposit their urine and most of their pills. Urine-training involves little more than putting a litterbox where the rabbit chooses to go. Pill training requires only that you give them a place they know will not be invaded by others. Here are some suggestions to help you to train your rabbit to use the litterbox.

8.2 Does age make a difference?

Older rabbits are easier to train than younger rabbits, especially babies. A rabbit's attention span and knack for learning increases as they grow up. If you have a baby, stick with it! And if you are deciding whether to adopt an older rabbit, or litter train your older rabbit, go for it!

8.3 Does Spaying/Neutering make a difference?

Yes! This is often the most important factor. When rabbits reach the age of 4-6 months, their hormones become active and they usually begin marking their territory. By spaying or neutering your rabbit, he will be more likely to use his litterbox (as well as be much healthier and happier).

8.4 What types of litter should I use?

It depends on what's available in your area and what your rabbit's habits are. Keep in mind the following as you choose your litter:

most rabbits spend lots of time in their litter boxes rabbits will always nibble some of the litter rabbit urine has a very strong odor.

House Rabbit Society recommends organic litters, made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper. (Some brands to look for: Care Fresh, Cat Country, Critter Country, Yesterday's News, and Papurr) For a complete listing of litter types, see the litter boxes and liver disease article. Stay away from litters made from softwoods, like pine or cedar shavings or chips, as these products are thought to cause liver damage in rabbits who use them. CatWorks litter has been linked to zinc poisoning. Swheat Scoop Litter should be avoided, because rabbits will often ingest it. Because it is comprised of wheat, it is very high in carbohydrates and can cause obesity, excessive cecal production, diarrhea, bacterial imbalance, and other health issues. Another approach is to place a handful of hay in each box, or to simply use hay as litter. It is helpful to put several layers of newspaper under the hay, to absorb urine so that your rabbit is not standing in the urine. Most newspapers today are using soybased ink, which is safe for your rabbit, but check with your local newspaper to make sure first. Obviously, you need to change the hay fairly frequently (daily), since your rabbit will be eating it. This method often helps to encourage good litter habits as well as to encourage hay consumption, since rabbits often eat at or near the same time as they use the litter box. Pros and cons of the various types of litter include:

clay litter is dusty--if your bunny is a digger, the dust can make her vulnerable to pneumonia the deodorant crystals in some clay litters are toxic clumping litters will clump inside the rabbit's digestive and respiratory tracts (the latter if they manage to make enough dust to breathe) causing serious problems and often leading to death pine and cedar shavings emit gases that cause liver damage when breathed by the bunny corn cob litter isn't absorbent and doesn't control odor, and has the the risk of being eaten and casing a lethal blockage. oat- and alfalfa-based litters (available from Purina, Manna-Pro, and KingSoopers groceries [not sure what the geographical range of this chain is]) have

excellent odor controlling qualities, but if a rabbit eats too much, they expand and cause bloating; these, too, can be added, with the bunny's waste, to compost newspapers are absorbent, but don't control odor citrus-based litters work well, offer no dangers, and can be composted, but may be hard to get and expensive in some areas of the country/world some people have reported success with peat moss which can also be composted Many people have great success with litter made from paper pulp or recycled paper products. These litters are very good at absorbing and cutting down on odors. A litter called CAREfresh is available. You can find out about local places that carry Carefresh by emailing absorbs@absorption-corp.com or by calling 1-800-242-2287. A similar litter in a pelleted form is called Cellu-Dri 1800-382-5001. These litters are harmless if ingested. Compressed sawdust pellets: are inexpensive, highly absorbent litters used in many foster homes. They are made from softwood or hardwood sawdust, but they are not toxic because the phenolic compounds are removed during their manufacture. Their wood composition helps control bacterial growth and odors. Wood stove fuel pellets and Feline Pine are two examples of this product. Litters made from Aspen bark are safe and good at absorbing odors. One brand is called GentleTouch 1-800-545-9853.

8.5 Cleaning and Disposal.

Clean litterboxes often, to encourage your rabbit to use them. Use white vinegar to rinse boxes out--for tough stains, let pans soak. Accidents outside of the cage can be cleaned up with white vinegar or club soda. If the urine has already dried, you can try products like "Nature's Miracle" to remove the stain and odor. To dispose of organic litters, they can be used as mulch, or can be composted. Rabbit pills can be directly applied to plants as fertilizer.

8.6 What kinds of cages work best?

Use a cage large enough to contain a small litterbox (along with bunny's food and water bows, toys, etc.) and still allow enough room for the rabbit to stretch out. Place the box in the corner of the cage that he goes in. With a litterbox in the cage, when the rabbit is confined to his cage when you're not home, cage time is learning time.

8.7 What if my cage is on legs or has a door that opens on top so the bunny can't get into it on his own?
If it is on legs, build a ramp or stairs, or pile boxes to make steps--anything so he can come and go on his own.

If the door is on top, put a small stool or box inside to help him get out, a board or piece of rug to help him walk to the edge of the cage, and a ramp, stairs, stool, or boxes to help him get down (and up again). 8.8 What if my cage is too small for a litter box or I don't use a cage?
If your cage is too small for a litter box, you may have a cage that is too small for your rabbit. Our Housing FAQ has lots of info on appropriate cages and enclosures.

Or you may have a dwarf rabbit and can't get a small litter box. A good substitute is a Pyrex baking dish. Even 9" x 9" is sufficient for a small 3 or 4 pound rabbit. You may have a cage with wire on the bottom and a tray underneath that catches the urine. In this case, the tray is the litter box and the cage itself is where the bunny learns to go. You can often place the litter box in the tray, under the cage, so that you need not fill the entire bottom with litter. P> If you don't use a cage, you need to give the bunny a particular area to call its own. Just put a litter box wherever the bunny seems to prefer. 8.9 Pills vs. Urine.
All rabbits will drop pills around their cages to mark it as their own. This is not failure to be litter-trained. It is very important for your rabbit to identify the cage as her property so that when she leaves the cage for the bigger world of your house, she will distinguish the family's area from her own and avoid marking it. To encourage this, make the rabbit the king of his cage. Try not to force him in or out of it-- coax him. Do not do things to his cage that he doesn't like, or things to him that he doesn't like while he's in the cage.

The trick to getting the rabbit to keep his pills in the cage is to give him ownership of his cage--respect the cage as HIS:

Don't reach into the cage to take him out; open the door and let him come out if and when HE wants to come; Don't catch him and put him back in the cage or it will be his prison, not his home. Herd him back gently, and let him choose to go in to get away from you (I walk behind my buns, clap my hands, and say "bedtime." They know that I'll not stop harassing them with this until they go into their cage, so they run in except when they feel they haven't gotten their fair share of time outside the cage.) It's a bit like a child going home and closing the door, because someone is calling her names. They may make the playground an unpleasant place for her, but they can't bother her in her own home.

If the rabbit has been snuggling with you, it's okay to carry him to the door of the cage and let him go in--just don't put him directly into the cage, and never chase and trap him and put him in the cage. Don't reach into the cage to get food dishes--anchor them near the door of the cage so they can be filled with a minimum of trespassing into the cage, or wait until the rabbit is out to fill them. Don't clean the cage while the rabbit is in it--wait until he comes out. He'll come over and supervise you, even help you move things around that you've set down outside the cage, but as long as he isn't in the cage, he won't see your cleaning as an invasion of his territory. (Smart rabbits--I wouldn't object if someone were cleaning my house, either... :-) )

The same technique can be used if a rabbit doesn't live in a cage, but in a particular part of a room. Mark the territory with a rug, tape, whatever, and don't trespass over that.

8.10 Can the rabbit have a running space?

Even if your goal is to let your rabbit have full run of the house, you must start small. Start with a cage and a small running space, and when your rabbit is sufficiently well-trained in that space, gradually give her more space. But do so gradually! If you overwhelm her with too much freedom before she's ready, she will forget where her box is and will lose her good habits.

8.11 So what's the actual method?

Start with a box in the cage, and one or more boxes in the rabbit's running space. If she urinates in a corner of the cage not containing the box, move the box to that corner until she gets it right. Don't be concerned if your bunny curls up in his litterbox--this is natural. Once she's using the box in the cage, open her door and allow her into her running space. Watch her go in and out on her own. If she heads to a corner where there's no box, or lifts up her tail in the characteristic fashion, cry "no" in a single, sharp burst of sound. Gently herd her back to her cage and her litterbox, or into one of the boxes in her room. Be careful, however. You don't want to make the cage or the litterbox seem like punishment. A handful of hay in the box makes it a more welcoming place. After she first uses the box, praise her and give her her favorite treat. Once she uses the box in her room a couple of times, you're well on your way, as her habits will be on their way to forming. As she gets better trained in her first room, you can increase her space. Don't hurry this process. And if the area becomes very big, or includes a second floor, be sure to include more litterboxes, so as not to confuse her. Remember, as she becomes more confident and uses fewer boxes, you can start to remove some of her early, "training" boxes. Get your rabbit into a daily routine and try not to vary it. Rabbits are very habitual and once a routine is established, they usually prefer to stick with it.

8.12 How many litterboxes?

The more, the merrier, especially if your rabbit is a bit of a slow learner, or is especially obstinate about where she wants her box(es) to go. As her habits improve, you can decrease the number of litterboxes.

8.13 Kicking litter out of the box

Some rabbits love to kick their litter out of the box. You can get a covered litterbox (with a hood) to help solve this problem. You can also try experimenting with different litters.

8.14 Urinating over the edge of the litterbox

A second problem is that rabbits often back up so far in the litterbox that the urine goes over the edge. Again, a covered litterbox can solve this problem. Another solution would be to get a dishpan or other type of tub with much higher sides. Still another solution would be to get a "urine guard" to place around the back of the cage, to keep the litter from spraying outside of the cage.

8.15 What to do if your rabbit insists on using another spot?

Compromise. If your rabbit continually urinates in a spot where there is no litterbox, put his box where he will use it, even if it means rearranging his cage or moving a table in the living room. It is much easier to oblige him than to try to work against a determined bunny!

8.16 What are the most common litter training mistakes? 1. Letting the bunny out of the cage and not watching her with undivided attention; (You can't watch TV or read the paper or knit or talk on the phone and expect to keep your mind on what the bunny is doing every second--if she urinates without being "caught" and herded to the litter box, she'll be that much slower in learning what she's supposed to do.) 2. Getting in a hurry. Bunnies take time. Perhaps that's one of their special gifts to us in this hectic world. They require that we take time out to sit and watch and do nothing else. Besides getting a well-trained bunny for your efforts, you also get a short period of time each day to watch one of the most charming little creatures on earth explore, skip for joy, and in general entertain you with her bunny-ness. 8.17 What should I do if my rabbit starts dribbling all over her cage instead of using the litter box?

Dribbles usually indicate a bladder infection. Get your bunny to a rabbit-veterinarianwho will probably put her on an antibiotic. If the dribbling stops, you know that that was the problem. (Watch out for antibiotics given by veterinarians not familiar with rabbits as companion animals!)

If the "dribbles" are more than dribbles, or if the antibiotic doesn't stop the problem, consider any factors that may be making your bunny feel insecure (new pet, house guests, change in location of cage, etc.), any of which can cause a bunny to mark her cage more enthusiastically (similar to someone having a dispute with a neighbor about the location of a fence setting up a flag at the property boundary marker). 8.18 Why does my rabbit urinate or leave pills right beside the litterbox?
The three most common things that are related to poor litter habbits (especially if the bun had been using the litterbox in the past) are: 1. Urinary Tract infections; sludge in the bladder; bladder stones; kidney disease.

This should be treated by a qualified doctor. A common example is Oreo, a 8.5 year Dutch who had 75% kidney failure and began urinating on the floor next to the litterbox when her problems first began. Hershey (her mate) did the same thing when he had a severe UTI last year. After the UTI was cleared up, he began to use the litterbox again. 2. Behavior related. Once the possibility of physiological causes is eliminated, the behavioral reasons seem to go something like this: Miz bun eliminates next to her litterbox because of some stress, eg, a break in her routine such as less or more running time than usual, visitors at home, kids home from college or summer camp, any intensely emotional event whether good or bad. it could even be a single incident such as being frightened by a sudden noise (car backfiring, etc) while she's in her box, which she then associates with being in the box. whatever the reason, she's feeling insecure and tries to rebuild her confidence by "underlining her signature" (signature being her droppings in the box; underlining, the puddles/piles beside it). Unless it's an ongoing stress that can be removed, figuring out the cause is not particularly relevant. the important factor is not what happened the first time but the habit that often grows from it. she pees beside the box today because she did it yesterday. many people do not take action for the first few incidents, especially with a rabbit who's always been good about using the litterbox. they figure it's a fluke that will disappear as suddenly as it started. this gives the habit time to

take firm root. by day 3, the habit is fairly entrenched, and correction of the perceived cause will not solve the problem. What WILL solve it? the usual: confinement, praise, rewards, vigilant observation and supervision during free-run time. but there's a catch-22 to this method. it generally requires a change in miz bun's routine, which is a common cause for the behavior in the first place. i know of no easy way around this knot. the hard way is to confine, praise, etc with minimal change to her usual routine. sometimes i add a box to the rabbit's area. the novelty makes the box attractive (as do treats placed in it). she hops in to investigate, and voila! she eliminates IN A BOX. this is good behavior, worthy of lavish rewards. it's often easier to get her to go in a new box than to go in the one she's been eliminating next to. It's important for people to understand that this process can take time. A rabbit who's been perfectly box-trained for 3 years and has peed next to the box for 3 days may need 3 weeks of intensive training to get back to her old, good behavior. why is it that bad habits take longer to undo than to initiate while the reverse is true of good habits? 3. Territory related. Winston, a religious litterbox user began urinating on the floor next to the litterbox near the gate...when Buttercup arrived on the opposite side of the gate. After Winston got used to Buttercup, and had "his" territory sufficiently marked, he stopped using the floor and resumed using the litterbox.

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Why spay and neuter rabbits?

Altered rabbits are healthier and live longer than unaltered rabbits. The risk of reproductive cancers (ovarian, uterine, mammarian) for an unspayed female rabbit stands at <="" a="">is virtually eliminated by spaying your female rabbit. Your neutered male rabbit will live longer as well, given that he

won't be tempted to fight with other animals (rabbits, cats, etc.) due to his sexual aggression. <="" a="">Altered rabbits make better companions. They are calmer, more loving, and dependable once the undeniable urge to mate has been removed. In addition, rabbits are less prone to destructive (chewing, digging) and aggressive (biting, lunging, circling, growling) behavior after surgery. <="" a="">Avoidance of obnoxious behavior. Unneutered male rabbits spray, and both males and females are much easier to litter train, and much more reliably trained, after they have been altered. <="" a="">Altered rabbits won't contribute to the problem of overpopulation of rabbits. Over 7 million adorable dogs, cats, and rabbits are killed in animal shelters in this country every year. In addition, unwanted rabbits are often abandoned in fields, parks, or on city streets to fend for themselves, where they suffer from starvation, sickness, and are easy prey to other animals or traffic accidents. Those rabbits who are sold to pet stores don't necessarily fare any better, as pet stores sell pets to anyone with the money to buy, and don't check on what kind of home they will go to. Many of these rabbits will be sold as snake food, or as a pet for a small child who will soon "outgrow" the rabbit. <="" a="">Altered rabbits can safely have a friend to play with. Rabbits are social animals and enjoy the company of other rabbits. But unless your rabbit is altered, he or she cannot have a friend, either of the opposite sex, or the same sex, due to sexual and aggressive behaviors triggered by hormones. <="" a="">Spaying and neutering for rabbits has become a safe procedure when performed by experienced rabbit veterinarians. The House Rabbit Society has had over 1000 rabbits spayed or neutered with approximately .1% mortality due to anesthesia. A knowledgeable rabbit veterinarian can spay or neuter your rabbit with very little risk to a healthy rabbit. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits to spay or neuter your rabbit.

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Is surgery safe on rabbits?

Surgery can be as safe on rabbits as on any animal. Unfortunately, the vast majority of veterinarians aren't experienced with safe rabbit surgery techniques. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits spay or neuter your rabbit. Using isofluorene as the anesthetic and appropriate surgical and after-surgery techniques, spaying and neutering of rabbits is as safe as for any other animal.

At what age should rabbits be spayed or neutered?

Females can be spayed as soon as they sexually mature, usually around 4 months of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are 6 months old, as surgery is riskier on a younger rabbit.

Males can be neutered as soon as the testicles descend, usually around 3-1/2 months of age. When is a rabbit too old to be spayed or neutered?
veterinarians will have their own opinions on this, but in general, after a rabbit is 6 years old, anesthetics and surgery become more risky.

It is always a good idea, in a rabbit over 2 years of age, to have a very thorough health check done, including full blood work. This may be more expensive than the surgery, but it will help detect any condition that could make the surgery more risky. This is especially important if anesthetics other than isofluorene are used. Can you tell if female rabbit has already been spayed?
The probability is very high that she hasn't.

One can shave the tummy and look for a spay scar. However, when veterinarians use certain stitching techniques, there is no scar whatsoever. Hopefully, these veterinarians will tattoo the tummy to indicate the spay has been done, but otherwise, the only way of knowing is to proceed with the surgery. What does the surgery cost?
Spay/neuter costs vary tremendously in different areas of the country. The low end of the range can be as inexpensive as $50-75 (often in spay/neuter clinics), while vets in major metropolitan areas, where rents and labor costs are very high, often charge several hundred dollars.

How can I find a veterinarian that can do the surgery safely?

See Section 5.0 of this FAQ, How To Find a Good Rabbit Vet.

What kinds of questions should I ask the vet?

about how many rabbit clients does the veterinarian see in a year? how many spays/neuters OF RABBITS has the veterinarian has done in the past year? what was the success rate? 90% success is way too low. Every doctor, whether for animals or humans will occasionally lose a patient; usually because of an undiagnosed problem. veterinarians across the country who spay and neuter rabbits for the House Rabbit Society have lost on average less than 1/2 of 1%.

if any were lost, what was the cause? does the veterinarian remove both uterus and ovaries? (they should) does the veterinarian do "open" or "closed" neuters? (closed is preferable--let your veterinarian explain the difference) is entry to the testicles made through the scrotum or the abdomen? (Entry via the abdomen unnecessarily increases the trauma for male rabbits) does the veterinarian require withholding of food and water prior to surgery in rabbits? (Do not do this--rabbits can't vomit, so there is no risk of that during surgery, and rabbits should never be allowed to get empty digestive tracts) what anesthetics are used--some veterinarians are quite successful with anesthetics other than isofluorene, but the bunny is "hung over" after surgery, which increases the probability that s/he will be slow to start eating again, which can lead to serious problems if not dealt with. Review the procedure (op and immediate post-op) with your vet. Ask how problems will be detected: how often will they (the veterinarian and the techs) look in on your rabbit and what will they look for?. What will they do pre-op to find any potential problems? How will they support your bun in the hours after surgery: Oxygen, warmth, quiet (barking dogs and yowling cats in the next cage are probably not helpful), and stimulation? What are they going to do to make it come out right?! Ask questions! That will get your veterinarian's attention. Let them know you're concerned and that you'll be paying attention.

What pre- and post-operative care should one give?

Some rabbit people give their rabbit acidophilus for a couple of days prior to surgery, just to be certain that the digestive system is functioning in fine form. But don't change the diet it any way during this time.

After the surgery, ask your veterinarian for pain medication, especially for a spay. If you choose, continue giving acidophilus until the appetite has returned to normal.

Inspect the incision morning and evening. After a neuter, the scrotum may swell with fluids. Warm compresses will help, but it is nothing to be overly concerned about. With any sign of infection, take the rabbit to the veterinarian immediately. After surgery, keep the environment quiet so the rabbit doesn't startle or panic, don't do anything to encourage acrobatics, but let the rabbit move around at her own pace-she knows what hurts and what doesn't Some veterinarians keep rabbits overnight. If your veterinarian lets you bring your bunny home the first night, note the following:

Most males come home after being neutered looking for "supper"-- be sure they have pellets, water, and some good hay (good, fresh alfalfa is a good way to tempt them to nibble a bit) Most females want to be left alone, are not interested in eating at all, and will sit quietly in a back corner of the cage (or wherever in the house they feel they will be bothered the least)

The following morning, or at latest by the next evening, it is important for the rabbit to be nibbling something. It doesn't matter what or how much, as long as she is taking in something, so the digestive tract won't shut down. If she isn't, tempt her with everything possible, and as a last resort, make a mush of rabbit pellets (1 part pellets, 2 parts water, run through blender thoroughly, add acidophilus, and feed in pea-sized bits with a feeding syringe through the side of the mouth)

Occasionally a female will pull out her stitches. Get her stitched up again, and then belly-band her by wrapping a dish towel around her whole middle and binding that with an elastic bandage wrapped snuggly over it. If she can breath normally, it isn't too tight.
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What You Need to Know Before Deciding on a Rabbit Being social, rabbits need a great deal of interaction with their owners and/or other rabbits to be happy. Daily playtime and exercise outside of their case are a necessity. Rabbits are not low maintenance - it takes a good deal of work to properly care for a rabbit. Rabbit pellets alone are not a sufficient diet -- they need lots of roughage in the form of good quality hay and a variety of fresh vegetables. They do need to chew, so lots of safe chew toys should be provided, and any spaces where the rabbit is allowed to run must be carefully rabbit-proofed.

They need a relatively large cage. They are also better off indoors, where they can be more social with their family and also are also safe from predators (even in the city) and extreme weather. While they are generally quiet pets, rabbits are not a good match for active young children who may not be careful enough when picking them up or playing around them. Rabbits like to be near their people, but they often would rather not be held. They will likely require some veterinary care, which can be expensive. They should bespayed or neutered (by a vet experienced with surgery on rabbits) and they may require vaccinations depending on where you live (see Rabbit Vaccinations from RabbitRehome.org.uk for more on vaccines). Rabbit urine can have a strong odor so expect to change their litter box frequently (spaying and neutering can help reduce the odor. In addition their urine is high in calcium so can leave a chalky residue when it dries that can be hard to clean up (vinegar is pretty effective for this). More on very important aspects of rabbit care can be found in the Rabbit Care Guide Consider Adopting a Shelter Rabbit

Please consider adopting an rabbit from a shelter or rescue if you have one nearby. There are many perfectly good pet rabbits who need a second chance at finding a forever home. Don't worry about getting an older rabbit--you can get a good sense of their personality and they will bond with new owners just fine. A special note about Easter and Rabbits: The association between rabbits and Easter means rabbits are often impulsively acquired as pets at Easter time. Unfortunately, many of these bunnies end up neglected or given up for adoption since those cute little bunnies grow up into rabbits that need as much attention and care as a dog. Rabbits can be destructive if deprived of attention and appropriate toys, and need to be spayed or neutered to cut down on behavioral problems and health risks. In addition, rabbits are not ideal pets for children, partly because rabbits usually do not like to be held or cuddled. Always research a potential pet thoroughly to make sure it will be a suitable companion before getting one, and avoid the impulse to get a bunny for Easter.

Rabbit Care for Beginners

First of all, congratulations on your new (or upcoming) rabbits! I'm sure you'll find them as fun and rewarding as I have. The first thing to consider when buying a pet rabbit or beginning to show rabbits is breed. Over 40 different breeds are accepted by the ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association). A description and standard of these breeds can be found in the Standard Of Perfection, which is available for purchase on theARBA site. Some things to think about when deciding which breed is best for you are:

Size Temperament Show Competition Availability Why You Want a Rabbit

Size: Rabbits can be small (2-4 pounds), medium (4-8 pounds), or large (8 pounds & up). If you are getting rabbits for a 7 year old, a large rabbit may not be the best thing. Also, if you have limited room on your property, smaller rabbits may be a better choice. So keep size in mind when picking a breed. Temperament: I'd love to tell you that there is no such thing as a mean rabbit, but I'd be lying. Some breeds are just more...aggressive than others. These breeds tend to be the running breeds, such as Tan or Britannia Petite. If you're looking for a gentle breed, then a Mini Lop, Netherland Dwarf, or Florida White may be the one for you. Show Competition: This may not be important for pet owners, but if you plan on showing your rabbit, it's a big deal. In some areas of the country, certain breeds are more prevalent than others. If you like a lot of competition, buy a breed that has a lot of breeders and exhibitors in your area. If you like winning rosettes and ribbons, but don't need competition, then a less common breed is for you. Availability: This ties into the last item. If you plan on buying quite a few rabbits or want the possibility of adding to your stock later on, you don't want to have to ship rabbits from 2,000 miles away. It's better to get a breed that is well-known and common in your area.

Why You Want a Rabbit: Different rabbits are for different things. Some breeds are better suited for, let's say, fur production. If you want to have a side business besides showing and breeding, then you might want to get a meat breed or a wool/fur breed. Meat breeds include New Zealands, Californians, Palomino, or Champagne D'Argent. Wool breeds include French Angora and

English Angora. Fur breeds are Rex, New Zealands, and Californians. Some breeds, such as the Netherland Dwarf, Mini Rex, and Holland Lop, are just for showing and possibly for pets (although pretty much any breed can be a pet.) Once you've figured out what type of breed of rabbit you want, you should make sure that you have the proper equipment and supplies. You need to think about: Housing Food Water

Housing: The type of housing you needs depends on whether you have one rabbit for a pet or whether you want more than a few rabbits. The more rabbits you have, the more accommodating your space must be. A recommended cage size for a small rabbit is 30" X 30" X 14". This will give your rabbit plenty of room to run around and be a rabbit, while providing room for a nest box in the future. Larger rabbits should have around 36" X 30" X 18". Wire is the best material for cages because it's the easiest to clean and sanitize. Wood will get messy quickly, and rabbits tend to chew on it. An all-wire cage is best, but if wood is needed, try and keep the amount of wood available to the rabbit inside the cage or hutch at a minimum. Cages should be kept out of drafts, away from predators, and out of the weather. Also, they should be kept in the shade, because rabbits are very susceptible to heat and can get ill if they are not well-cooled. A sitting board should be provided for larger breeds and for rabbits which have a thinner hair surface of their feet. This is to prevent sore hocks. Food: Pellets are the best bet for pet and show animals alike. They contain most if not all of the nutrients a rabbit needs to stay healthy. Several different brands and formulas exist, so ask your pet shop employee or feed store worker to help you choose the correct feed. In my experience, pellets are cheaper in feed stores, and if you have quite a few rabbits, it may be helpful to buy in bulk. Just be warned that feed does go bad, so watch for mold that can make your bunnies sick. The amount to feed a rabbit depends on size and situation. If you have smaller rabbits, such as a Netherland Dwarf, 3 ounces a day is plenty. For larger breeds, the recommended formula is one ounce of pellets per pound of body weight. If a rabbit is pregnant, lactating, or is still growing, they can have full feed, which is unlimited food in front of them all day. Along with pellets, a rabbit's diet can be supplemented with roughage (hay) of some sort. Rabbits love alfalfa, but it's very rich and should be fed only in moderation. Grass hay such as timothy hay is best and less expensive. Give them all grass hay they want. Food dishes should be heavy and not easily tipped or have some sort of device to hold them down. Lord knows how much money has been wasted in any rabbitry because of spilled feed.

Water: Water is the most important thing your rabbit needs in his daily diet. Unlike humans, rabbits cannot get water from their food, so we must provide them with clean, fresh water daily. If you notice that the crock or dish is dirty, please take five minutes and clean it out very well. Especially in warmer weather, you should be sure your rabbit has a constant supply of water. Water dishes should hold plenty of water and be heavy ceramic crocks or large Croc-Locks. Water bottles work also, but some rabbits don't know how to use them. Just make sure all of your equipment is clean and sanitary. Although a lot more goes into keeping rabbits, this article should get get you started on the right path. Good luck!

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