Professional Documents
Culture Documents
WOO
WOOD
®
ISSUE 165 OCTOBER 2005 Better Homes and Gardens
TA BLA p.2
BE ES ES
BL D 2
ST AW
®
The Shop-Proven Woodworking Magazine
compact, store-all
enterrtai
ente
back panel for
ttainment
ainment center complete building plans p. 42
easy wiring!
Center console for electronics
Supports
TVs up
to 42"
wide
Slide-out
drawers for
dozens of
tapes and
DVDs
P R O J E C T S
28 easy-adjust router trammel
42 compact entertainment center
52 dead-blow mallet
64 a gem of a jewelry box
76 build-in-a-weekend bookcase 42 86
86 artist’s easel for kids
94 take-anywhere hardware bins
96 straight-tracking crosscut sled
T E C H N I Q U E S
20 turn pictures into project plans
36 how to adjust jointer knives
38 the (almost) handcut dovetail lap joint
59 stop tear-out while machining wood
74 woodworkers tell how to pinch pennies
82 four bookcase design options 52
90 10 keys to building WOOD projects
From stock selection to assembly, develop the
regimen needed to build flawless projects from plans.
T O O L S & M A T E R I A L S
10 a look at low-cost CNC machines
22 which 10" saw blades do you need?
See how well rip, crosscut, and combo saw blades
cut, and choose the type best suited for your needs. 28 76
32 the safest tablesaw on the market
70 clamp-on tool guides
We test and compare the performance of eight
38
systems to make your buying decision a no-brainer.
84 guide to woodshop work surfaces
Check out the pros and cons of eight materials
meant to take abuse atop your workbench.
92 wise buys: detail sanders
D E P A R T M E N T S
6 editor’s angle
8 sounding board
12
24
ask WOOD
shop tips ®
64
This seal is your assurance that we build
112 what’s ahead every
70
project, verify every fact, and test every
reviewed tool in our workshop to guarantee
your success and complete satisfaction.
22
92
Better Homes and Gardens®
®
October 2005 Vol. 22, No. 5 Issue No. 165
C O R P O R AT I O N
© Copyright Meredith Corporation 2005 All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.
HOW TO REACH US
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finishing, tools, turning, general woodwork- get help with your subscription, go to special issues, or downloadable articles from
ing, etc.) on one of 20+ online forums at woodmagazine.com/service; or call issue 100 to present, by visiting woodmaga-
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the U.S., call 515/247-2981. Or write to Some issues are sold out.
Editorial feedback: WOOD magazine, P.O. Box 37439, Boone, IA
Send your comments via e-mail to 50037-0439. Please enclose your address Updates to previously published projects:
woodmail@woodmagazine.com; or call label from a recent magazine issue. For an up-to-date listing of changes in
800/374-9663 and press option 2; or write dimensions and buying-guide sources
to WOOD magazine, 1716 Locust St., GA- To find past articles: from issue 1 through today, go to
310, Des Moines, IA 50309-3023. See our index at woodmagazine.com/index. woodmagazine.com/editorial.
Tomorrow’s
woodworking
today with
CNC routers
H ow many times have we seen a
high-tech product start out high-
priced, and then watch it inch
down in cost, becoming affordable for a
broader audiance? Computers, DVD
players, and digital cameras have all
traveled that highway. And now, in
woodworking, CNC (computer numerically
controlled) cutting machines have joined the
parade. ShopBot Tools, Inc, located in
Durham, North Carolina, has figured a way
Marking knives:
a cut above pencils
Q: I use a sharp pencil in the shop
to mark crosscuts, mortise-and-
tenon layouts, and dovetails. I see a big
deal being made about marking gauges
and small knives to mark the cuts and Knife mark
layouts. Why are these better? If I make (scribe)
a mistake, I can erase the pencil lines.
—Mike Jory, Castro Valley, Calif.
Q:
fence
Every time I use a dado set to cut to draw a reference line from one edge of the
half-lap joints, I seem to waste a cut up the face of the fence. Then make a
lot of time lining up each successive cut series of evenly spaced marks away from
to the edge of the blade. Is there a faster your reference line along the face of the
system? extension. Space these marks slightly less
—Pat Martin, Oak Park, Ill. than the width of the dado cut, for example
111
⁄16" apart for a 3⁄4" dado. Then make a single
Well-rounded dowels
Q: Is there a way I can add a
round end to ‹"- and ›"-
diameter dowels? I would like to do
this for axles on toy cars and trucks.
—Norm Camire, WOOD Online
turn
pictures
into
projects
Instead of just taking photos of your projects,
design projects from your photos.
Rip, crosscut,
or combo:
Which 10" saw
blades do you
really need?
24-tooth 80-tooth 40-tooth
rip blade crosscut blade combo blade
Our recommendation:
Get two blades, not three
When sharp, combination blades performed
as well as dedicated rip and crosscut blades.
As the blades dulled, however, we started to
see differences. So, if you work primarily in
veneered plywood, a good crosscut blade
will serve you well for both ripping and
crosscutting those sheet goods. Switch to a
sharp combination blade for solid stock.
But if you work in both solid woods and
sheet goods, making rips and crosscuts, buy
two identical combination blades instead.
Install one in your tablesaw and set the
other aside. At the first sign of dulling
(burned edges and/or increased feed
resistance), switch to the second blade and
get the first blade cleaned and sharpened.
That way, you’ll always have a fresh blade
ready for action. ¿
woodmagazine.com 23
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Keyhole bit unlocks the secret
to no-slip bookends
top shop tip
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Adapting Jum’s idea to ��
the entertainment center ���
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Top tips win tools!
Jum’s tip arrived too late
����������������
for us to build it into the Describe how you’ve solved a workshop
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design of the Compact dilemma and you’ll earn $75 if it
Entertainment Center appears here. And, if your tip garners
��������������
project on page 42. But ���������� Top Shop Tip honors, you’ll also win a
we think it’s the perfect � tool prize worth at least $250.
� ��
solution for keeping your Send your best tips, along with
�
CD and DVD collections photos or illustrations and your daytime
��
from falling flat on their phone number, to: Shop Tips, WOOD
respective shelves. If Magazine, 1716 Locust St., GA-310,
you’d like to add Des Moines, IA 50309-3023. Or e-mail
“bookends” to that ������������������� tips to: shoptips@woodmagazine.com.
project, build them as �������� Remember to include your contact info
shown in the drawing, at ������������� in the e-mail as well.
right, and add the keyhole ���������� Because we try to publish original
slot in the shelves (O) tips, please send your tips only to
where shown. WOOD magazine. Sorry, submitted
materials can’t be returned.
continued on page 25
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woodmagazine.com 25
shop tips
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See a new
Shop Tip
of the Day at
woodmagazine.com/tips
woodmagazine.com 27
just right joinery
the (almost)
handcut
dovetail
lap joint
Simple, stylish, solid—
this reinforcer dresses
up everything from First, form the crisp, clean dovetails
STEP 1: SCORE DOVETAIL LENGTH STEP 2: MARK DOVETAIL ANGLES
picture frames to
cabinet face frames.
Marking
S
gauge
ome joints rely on power tools, and End line inside
others on hand tools. Combine both from corner.
to create this eye-catching bond that Equals
width of
would sooner break wood than pull apart. board
Hand tools you’ll need include a marking
gauge, sliding bevel, dovetail saw, chisels,
crafts knife, and pencil. Power tools that’ll
make the job easier include a bandsaw and a Machine your frame parts to identical width Now, set your sliding bevel to an 81° angle.
and thickness, in this case ¾" thick and 2" Scribe lines to make the dovetail’s wide
router that can be used freehand or table- wide. Set your marking gauge to the width of end Î" narrower than the width of the
mounted with a straight bit. the stock, and scribe lines on both faces and workpiece. This provides a flat surface on
edges of each end where you’ll cut dovetails. the end for starting your saw cut.
STEP 3: MARK THE CENTERLINES STEP 4: CUT THE DOVETAIL DEPTH STEP 5: ROUGH-CUT THE DOVETAIL
Waste
area
Centerline
Waste to Dovetail
Scribed be trimmed shoulder
line with a chisel
Set your marking gauge for the center of the Begin forming the dovetail portion of the joint Bandsaw on the waste side of your dovetail
stock, and scribe lines along edges and ends by bandsawing Î" in on the waste side of marks. Stop about Î" before the scribed line
where you’ll cut each dovetail. Measure from the center line. Stop Î" from the line you marked on the shoulder. Then saw in from the
the appearance (face) side down for added scribed in Step 1. You also can use a edge to form the rough shoulder. Complete
consistency. Lightly darken the line with a Western- or Japanese-style dovetail saw to this step using a handheld saw for a true
pencil and shade the waste areas. saw off the waste. handcut joint.
continued on page 30
28 WOOD magazine October 2005
just right joinery
STEP 6: CLEAN UP THE DOVETAIL STEP 7: CLEAN UP THE EDGES STEP 8: DEFINE THE SHOULDERS
Leave extra to
remove with chisel.
Use a table-mounted router and straight bit to Using the flat back of the chisel, shave away Shave the shoulders flush with the line
remove waste on the underside of the dovetail the surplus area left in Steps 5 and 6. Create scored in Step 1. Remove the surplus on the
up to the end centerline. Use a miter gauge or straight lines with edges that are at right underside of the dovetail left after Step 6 to
fence to help control your workpiece. angles to the surfaces. the same scored line.
Now cut the slots edge of the dovetail and the end of the
board. It also supports your router base, as
tight-fitting joints, trim away the excess
after the joint is assembled and glued.
For this example, we’ll position the edge of shown in Step 4. The dovetails you cut in the previous
the dovetail piece ‡" in from the end of the If your project requires a frame with flush stage serve as guides for marking angles on
dovetail slot workpiece, as shown in Step 1. edges and ends, cut the slots on oversize the slot workpieces. So on projects using
Insetting the slot reduces the risk of pieces and trim away the excess on the ends more than one joint, number or letter the
breaking off the small area between the after cutting and cleaning up the slots. For dovetails and matching slots.
STEP 1: MARK SLOT LOCATIONS STEP 2: MARK SLOT CENTERLINES STEP 3: CUT THE SLOT SIDES
¾"
Hold the dovetail firmly against the top of the Using your marking gauge, scribe centered Now, cut down to the scribed center lines
slot workpiece, and use a crafts knife along lines on both edges of the dovetail slot using a Western- or Japanese-style dovetail
the edge of the dovetail to score lines for workpieces where cuts will be made. Again, saw. Cuts must be perpendicular to the face
cutting the slots. measure down from the appearance side. for a gap-free fit.
STEP 4: FLATTEN THE SLOT STEP 5: CLEAN UP THE SLOT STEP 6: FLUSH-SAND PIECES
Outside
edge
Inside
Square off edge
slot edges.
Use a straight bit in a handheld router to Remove the surplus left after routing. If Spread glue evenly on the underside and
flatten the bottom of the slot down to your necessary, square off the inside and outside edges of the dovetail, seat it in the slot, and
centerline. Leave a small amount to remove edge lines and correct any sawn sides of the clamp it in place. After the glue dries
with a chisel to avoid damaging your straight- slot that aren’t square. Test-fit the joint, as thoroughly, flush-sand the faces and edge of
sawn edges. Use scrap as thick as your stock shown opposite top, until the pieces the joint up to 150 grit using a random-orbit
to stabilize the router base. assemble without excessive force. sander. ¿
edge of the smaller-diameter dado set.) RIVING KNIFE: ANOTHER SAFETY FEATURE
At first, this changeover proved to be a
nuisance, but before long, we found we
could change to a dado set or back in less Riving knife
than 90 seconds, start to finish.
The blade brake is a great safety device,
but SawStop’s European-style riving knife
(shown at right
right) adds another layer of safety.
Acting as a splitter, it prevents kickback;
standing just shy of the blade height, it
helps in keeping you from accidentally
dragging your hand into the back of the
blade. And the riving knife installs in place
of the splitter/blade guard with a flick of a
lever. Our riving knife comes off only for
dado cuts and then goes right back on the The riving knife raises and lowers with the saw blade, always remaining just a hair lower than
saw afterward—a testament to how much the top of the blade. That means it won’t interfere with a sacrificial pushblock when ripping
we like it. narrow stock, for example.
All those safety devices would mean little
if the SawStop cabinet saw was under- About the time this issue went to press, SawStop 10" Cabinet Saw (3 hp)
powered or poorly built. But that’s not the SawStop began selling a contractor-style Performance ★★★★★
case. Fit and finish on this machine is above saw equipped with the blade brake, riving Price $2,500, without a rip fence
average, with massive, smooth-operating knife, and a 1fi-hp motor, for $800. That (add $290 for 36" fence; $330 for 52" fence);
handwheels and nicely machined tables. We price includes stamped-steel extension $60, replacement blade brake cartridge;
also appreciate the oversize blade-changing wings and a 30" fence system. $70, replacement dado brake cartridge
wrenches that keep our hands well clear of —Tested by Chuck Hedlund, SawStop
the blade. Jeff Mertz, and Kevin Boyle 503/638-6201; sawstop.com
zero-in perfection:
adjusting
jointer knives
Aligning jointer knives doesn't
have to be difficult. Using an
inexpensive dial indicator, a
shop-made holder, and these six
simple steps, you can achieve
perfection in under 30 minutes.
A
djusting jointer knives is a shop don’t want to spend a lot of time or money
task often misunderstood and too on tool maintenance. If your jointer’s cut-
often neglected. This doesn’t have terhead has jackscrews here’s how to get the
to be the case. Many methods and jigs job done in no time with an inexpensive dial
exist (some very involved and others quite indicator (less than $20) and a shop-made
expensive) to help you set jointer knives. holder. Begin by making the holder (lower
Like most woodworkers, you probably left), and then follow these steps.
7fi"
1‡" ¤" round-over all edges
2"
R=2fi"
4‹" ›" hole
‡"
fl"
‡"-diam. R=1‹"
magnet fi"
‡" holes
‹" deep
2‡" Step 1 With the tool unplugged and the Step 2 Place the knives in the cutterhead,
knives removed, clean all dust and debris making sure they sit below the outfeed table
#8 x 1fi" from them, the gibs, and the cutterhead slots. height. Snug the gib bolts to hold the knives
panhead screw ¸" shank hole Lightly coat the parts with a light machine oil in place. Do not tighten yet.
Œ" deep with a mating to help make adjustments easier and to keep
⁄ " pilot hole
7 64 parts from freezing together. If the knives
fl" deep need sharpening, take them to a profes- Step 3 With the dial indicator mounted
sional. Note: during tool start-up, any excess in the holder (as shown in the top photo) and
„" kerf 1fi" long oil will quickly fly off the cutterhead and not positioned over the outfeed table, turn the
contaminate your work. dial’s outer ring until it reads zero.
Step 4 Position the dial indicator Step 5 Using an Allen wrench and the Step 6 Gradually tighten the gib bolts in
foot over the knife, centering it on the cut- jackscrews in the cutterhead, raise the knife the sequence shown so the knife won’t creep
ting edge. The dial should read less than until the dial reads zero along the entire upward and need readjusting. Recheck the
zero. Note: A flat foot on the dial indicator length. Tweak each end of the knife to reach knife height, and repeat Steps 5 and 6 on the
makes locating the edge center easier, but an the desired height. remaining knives. Check all bolts and guards
indicator’s bullet tip also works. before turning on the jointer. ¿
easy-adjust
router
trammel
Cut perfect circles from
15" to 48" in diameter with
this shop-made accessory.
Say goodbye to rough and irregular edges
the next time you cut a circle or ring. And,
How to build your own
1
using the trammel’s extended base for
Cut a piece of fi" Baltic birch plywood added stability, as shown at right, you
to 6×9‹" for the extended base (A). Cut can detail an edge or rabbet the back of a
a centered ¤" groove ‹" deep along one cabinet without fear of the router tipping.
end, where shown on Drawing 1 and the
full-size base pattern on the WOOD
A N
Patterns® insert. Use a table-mounted 2 TRAMMEL ARM ¤" groove ‹" deep
Brouter
O with a slot cutter or a tablesaw with a ¤" round-over on bottom
zero-clearance insert to cut the groove. fi" hole ˇ" deep,
2
on bottom face fi" recess 17fi" long edge, except on grooved end
C PSpray-adhere the full-size base pattern ˇ" deep, centered
1fi" ˇ" hole ˇ" hole 1fi"
D Qonto the blank, aligning the ¤" groove
with the groove location marked on the B
R
Epattern. Bandsaw and sand the extended 3"
baseS(A) to shape.
3
F 1fi"
Remove the baseplate from your router
G Tand position the plate on the paper 1‡" ˇ" slot 16Å" long, centered 1‡"
pattern adhered to the extended base. Align 20"
H U
the baseplate holes with the centering lines
V
Ion the pattern. Mark the screw-hole router. Then drill or scrollsaw the router-bit Form the trammel arm
centerpoints, as shown in Photo A. Trace
J W
the router-bit clearance hole onto the
X
Kextended base.
clearance hole.
4
L
YDrill and countersink the marked holes
for attaching the extended base to the with the groove.
one end of the arm, where shown on
Note: Do not round over the end of the base
Drawing 2.
2
Z
M On the top face of the arm, mark the
MARK BASE HOLE CENTERPOINTS centerpoints, and drill a pair of ˇ"
holes through the arm, where dimensioned
1 EXTENDED BASE on Drawing 2. Connect the hole perimeters
for the slot (to be cut later) with a
‹-20 tapered knob straightedge and pencil.
3
3Œ" long 2 TRAMMELOn ARM
the bottom face of the trammel arm
‹" flat washer (B), use a Forstner bit to drill a fi" hole
ˇ" deep, where shown on Drawing 2.
¤" groove
‹" deep,
centered
‹" hole, countersunk
on bottom face
Location of D
4
To form the trammel-arm recess, install
a fi" straight bit into your table-mounted
router. Raise the bit ˇ" above the surface of
Router-bit
clearance hole the table. Position the fence so the bit
A centers over the fi" hole drilled in the
previous step. Mark start and stop reference
lines 1fi" from the center of the straight bit
No round-over
on the router fence.
5
along this end
A Bring the trammel arm (B) up to the left
FILENAME:165Trammel2.eps start mark on the router fence, and slowly
‹-20 x 1‹" F.H. ¤" round-overDate: 6-05 Transfer the screw-hole locations from your
fi" plywood lower it onto the bit, as shown in Photo B.
machine screw Lorna J. router baseplate onto the extended base,
positioning them over the centering lines. continued on page 40
1
B
Cut the adjustment plate pieces E and D connector plate ‹" 3" 3" HB 1
F to size. Drill the holes shown on E guide bars fi" fi" 2" Ply 2
Drawing 3. Screw the three pieces together.
2
centerpoint
F adjustment plate ‹" 2" 4" HB 1
Grind opposite edges off a 2" long ˇ"
flat washer so it fits into the fi"-wide Materials key: Ply–plywood, HB–hardboard.
trammel-arm recess. Hacksaw the head off a Supplies: Spray adhesive, #8×fl" flathead wood screws
fi" straight bit
B (2), #8×fi" flathead wood screws (4), ‹-20×1‹" flathead
ˇ" hexhead bolt, where shown on Drawing 3a. machine screw, ‹" flat washer, ‹-20 tapered knob, ˇ"
Align the end of the trammel arm (B) with the
start line on the router fence and carefully Thread a ˇ" hexnut onto the bolt. Assemble hexhead bolt 2" long with nut, ˇ" flat washers (2), ˇ-18
lower it onto the straight bit. Rout the access the adjustment plate to the trammel arm (B) in three-arm knob.
until the trailing end reaches the stop line. the configuration shown on Drawing 3b. Bits: ¤" round-over, fi" straight router bits; fi" Forstner bit.
compact
entertainment center
L
ooking for a space-saving
cabinet to hold your TV, elec-
tronic components, videos,
and CDs? Let this handsome unit,
made from red oak and red oak ply-
wood, steal the show. Though it
measures only 23‡" deep × 44" long
× 26" high, it has spacious drawers
that hold a total of about 110 DVDs
or 70 videotapes, and a glass-door
enclosed area with adjustable shelves
for components. The entertainment
center accepts TVs up to 42" wide
and 23" deep. Need even more stor-
age for your videos and CDs? Check
out the companion media storage
Deep, dual-shelf drawers with full-extension slides A back with roller catches literally unlatches in cabinet, presented in issue 160, or go
hold loads of easily accessible media. a snap for easy and organized wiring connections. to woodmagazine.com/mediastorage.
C P
1
O
From ‡"-thick stock (we used red oak),
cut the side rails (A) and front/back rails
(B) to the sizes listed in the Materials List.
B
‡" 2‡"
C
2
To form the foot halves (C), cut from ‡"-
H U thick stock two 2fi×22" blanks. Angle
fi"
C C 4fi"
5
M
the patterns to the foot halves, making sure Glue, biscuit, and assemble the beveled
you align the noted pattern edge with the edges of the mating left and right foot
beveled edge on each piece. Then bandsaw halves together, keeping the ends flush and A
and sand the angled side on each piece to the the joints tight. After the glue dries, assemble
pattern line. the feet to the ends of the side rails (A) with
4
Using your biscuit joiner, plunge slots for
#10 biscuits in the foot halves (C), where
shown on the patterns, and in the ends of the
biscuits, using ‡" scrap as a straightedge to
keep the outside faces of the feet and rails
flush, as shown in Photo A. Now assemble
C
‡" scrap
rails (A, B), where shown on Drawing 1. the side rail/feet assemblies to the front/back straightedge
When cutting the slots in the beveled edges rails (B) to complete the base, again using C
A
of the foot halves, JIG
ING FLUSH-TRIMMING angle your biscuit-joiner straightedges to keep the parts aligned and Glue, biscuit, and clamp the feet (C) to the
fence to 45° and adjust the height to position the base square. Sand the base to 220 grit, ends of the side rails (A). Use ‡" scrap as a
the slot cutter ¤" from the inside faces of the and set it aside. straightedge to keep the parts aligned.
SHOP TIP
A simple jig makes it easy to flush-trim edging ends
FILENAME:165TvStand1.eps
Ever tried to trim edging flush
Date: 5-05with an end or edge of a plywood below, you’ll quickly trim all of the entertainment center edging
panel and accidentally cut into
Lorna J. the panel? With the jig shown perfectly flush, eliminating alignment guesswork and miscuts.
woodmagazine.com 43
20° bevel TOP
F 41"
Mitered ends D
E 41"
‡"
BB 21fi" ¸" shank hole,
F countersunk on bottom
44" F face, with a mating
Roller- 23‡" 7⁄64" pilot hole
3fi"
3fi" catch fi" deep in part E
CASE clip
17Œ" Double
Shelf roller catch CASE
¤" groove ¤" deep support
cut after assembly DRAWER
of drawer front Y U
D
17Œ" H
G W V J
6fi" P
S Z 1‹" 16"
¤" O
Z
T ‡" G L G
Q K
P ¤" round-overs, M
fl" shelf both sides I
T O X fl" grooves standard
6fi" ‰" deep 20" long #8 x 1‹" F.H.
wood screws J
R No round-over H
D 41"
D
D BOTTOM
21fi" 41" D
›" partial 2b ROUTING THE PARTIAL ROUND-OVERS ⁄ " pilot hole
7 64 ¸" shank hole,
round-overs E fi" deep countersunk
D
42fi" D
23"
2 EXPLODED VIEW
B
C
A
2a TOP/DOORSTOP
A N DETAIL 2b ROUTING THE PARTIAL 2c HINGE PLATE DETAIL
ROUND-OVERS
B O 2fi" 7⁄64" pilot hole fi" deep
1fi" F E
P ›" round-
C over bit Fence
F 2‹" Hinge
‡" E #8 x 1‹" P.H.
D Q wood screw 2Á" plate
20° ˇ"
E fi" R E D
2¤"S
FILENAME:165TvStand2.eps 3Ø"
BB ‡"
Date: 5-05 F
fi"-diam. adhesive-
Lorna J.
backed rubber Router
G Tbumper
‡" table L G
#8 flat washer
H U
V
I
Next up:
J W
the edging blanks
and top/bottom panels
edge and ends of the bottom panel, noting
the mitered front corners. (Cutting all edging 4 From ‡"-thick stock, cut the top-panel
trim blank (F) to the size listed. Then
1
X
From K‡"-thick stock, rip nine ‡×96" fi" longer than the finished lengths allows bevel-rip the bottom face of the blank at 20°,
pieces for the
Y edging blanks (D). you to trim the pieces to exact lengths for where dimensioned on Drawing 2a. Sand the
Note: Many L of the plywood panels for the flush ends and tight miter joints.) bevel smooth.
3 5
Z
entertainment
M center have edging. Save con- Glue and clamp the edging, centered, to Crossut pieces from the trim blank to the
siderable time by preparing the edging the back edges of both panels. After the lengths shown on Drawing 2 (plus fi") to
blanks now and crosscutting them to the glue dries, trim the edging flush with the ply- fit the ends and front edge of the top panel
needed lengths as you build the project. wood ends. For an easy way to do this, see (E), again noting the mitered front corners.
6
S To form ›" partial round-overs 20fi"
on the bottom panel edging ‡" D J
T ¸" shank hole, 21‹" 3"
(D), where shown on Drawings 2 countersunk ‡"
16fi"
U and 2b, chuck a ›" round-over bit
in your table-mounted router. ‡" rabbet ›" deep
V 1" 2‹"
Round over the top and bottom
W edges of the side and then the front edging. inside face, where shown. Switch to a fl" trim and flush with the ends of the sides.
X
Y
7 Position the bottom panel (D/E) on a flat
surface with the bottom face up. Then
glue and clamp the base assembly (A/B/C)
dado blade. Now, on the outside face of the
two inner sides (G), cut two ‰"-deep
grooves for fl" shelf standards, where
Now glue and clamp the side rear trim (K) in
place, as shown in Photo B. Identify the left
and right cases.
Z to the panel, flush with the back of the rear
edging (D) and centered side-to-side.
dimensioned on Drawing 2.
INSTALL THE SIDE REAR TRIM MOUNT THE CASES TO THE BASE 7 From fi" oak plywood, cut the backs (N)
to size to fit the cases. The backs fit
against the case edges and tight against the
J
FILENAME:165TvStand3.eps fi" overhang of the side rear trim (K). Set
Date: 5-05 G the backs aside.
8
Lorna J. K Place the base/bottom panel assembly
(A/B/C/D/E) on a flat work surface with
J the panel up. Using two ‡×4×18" spacers
‡×4×18" between the cases, as shown in Photo C,
spacers
center the cases side-to-side on the panel
fi" overhang with the back edge of the side rear trim (K)
Case
flush with the back of the rear panel edging
H (D). Drill countersunk shank holes through
H the case bottoms (H) into the panel (E),
where shown on Drawings 2 and 3, and drive
the screws.
Base/bottom
9 Position the top panel assembly (D/E/F)
on the cases, centered side-to-side, with
the back edge of the panel edging (D) flush
B C panel assembly with the back edge of the side rear trim (K).
Glue and clamp the side rear trim (K) tight With the cases aligned on the base assembly
From inside the cases, drill the mounting
against the top/bottom trim (J). The rear trim (see Step 8) and positioned 18" apart with holes through the tops (H) into the panel (E),
overhangs the case fi" for the back (N). spacers, screw the cases to the base. and drive the screws.
woodmagazine.com 45
4 DRAWER (Left drawer shown)
¸" shank hole, countersunk D
8„" on back face D
#8 x 1" F.H. wood screw D
D ‡" D 8" ‡" D
D Q
‡" D P
D 3‹"
O D
S 5" D 8" 19fi"
D 9‹"
15›" 16¤"
Q D
D P
T
‡" ‡"
5„" 18ˇ" O D
‹" R
R 21"
1fl" 19Å" ›"
T 8„" „"
‡"
8„" fi" ¸" shank hole, 20" full-extension drawer slide
D #8 x 2" F.H. countersunk
1"-diam. brass knob wood screw
#8-32 x fl" knob hanger bolt ‡" Note: Left and right drawers
are mirror images.
⁄ " pilot hole fi" deep, centered in opening on
7 64 ‡"
front after assembly of edging D and trim T
Time to construct the the shelf/edging joints and keeping the ends where dimensioned on Drawing 5, noting the
dual-shelf drawers of the rails and shelves flush, where shown. left and right drawers are mirror images.
6
Date: 5-05 Top shelf
Lorna J. From fi" oak plywood, cut the fronts (S)
assembly D O P Back to size. Sand the fronts smooth.
7
D Q From the edging blanks (D), crosscut
O pieces to the lengths needed for the edges
›" D
and ends of the fronts (S). On a flat surface,
apply the edging, keeping it flush with the
back face of the fronts.
‡"
R
8 From ‡"-thick stock resawn or planed
to ‹" thick, cut the front trim (T) to size to
fit between the edging (D) on the fronts (S).
False Glue and clamp the trim to the fronts, where
P front dimensioned. After the glue dries, mark
D Q centerpoints centered in the openings on the
Bottom shelf front face of the fronts for the knob mount-
D assembly ing holes, where shown. Drill the holes.
Scrap edging D
used to set
D O
9‹×9‹" spacer
P R
9 Fit your tablesaw with a standard ¤"-kerf
blade. Then crosscut two ¤"-deep
grooves across the front assemblies (D/S/T),
D ‡" overhang of part R E
Glue and clamp a support (R) to the bottom With a top and bottom shelf assembly spaced where dimensioned on Drawing 2. (The
of a bottom shelf (D/O), ›" from the outside 9‹" apart, drive screws through the false grooves are for accent purposes only.) Set
edge with a ‡" overhang at each end. fronts/backs (D/Q) into the assemblies. the fronts aside.
5 PARTS VIEW
8Í"
1¤" Location of part P ‡"
1‡" 3" holes 4Œ
‡" D 5"
2" 3‹" 19Œ"
5‡"
Q 5›" U
2"
5"
1 2
H U ‡" ‡"
To mount the 20" full-extension drawer Using a combination square, draw a line
D Q V length of each drawer-slide
slides, press the release lever and separate alongI the BB
‡"
the slide members. Using E R ‹" hardboard for support (R) W ‡" from the bottom edge on the
J
a spacer, position an outer slide
S
member in a outside face. Position an inner slide member 3"
F
case against the drawer-slide spacer (M), Œ" on a support, X „" from the front end, where
K DOORSTOP TOP VIEW
back from the front face G of T
the front trim (L), dimensioned on Drawing 4, with the mount-
Y
where dimensioned on Drawing 3a and as ing holesL centered on‰"theslot
marked line.centered
›" long, Mark smoothly. If needed, adjust the position of1¤" Loca
H theU centers of the Z ‡"
‡" slots in the slide.
shown in Photo F. Mark the centers
M of the vertical the inner slide members on the drawer-slide
horizontal slots in the slide.VDrill pilot holes, Drill pilot holes, and drive the screws. Repeat supports (R). Then drill pilot holes centered ‡"
I BB
‡"
and drive the screws supplied with the slide. to mount the remaining inner slides. in the round holes in the slides, and drive the
2"
3
W
Using the same spacingJ and on the opposite Insert the drawers into the cases,
3" engag- screws to fix the slide positions.
4
side of the case, mountK an Xouter slide mem- ing the slides. Verify the drawers move To mount the drawer fronts (D/S/T) 5‡"to
DOORSTOP TOP VIEW 2"
Y the false fronts (D/Q), position a front,
INSTALL THE DRAWER
L SLIDES ATTACH THE DRAWER FRONTS centered top-to-bottom and side-to-side, in
Z Drawer front the case opening. Measure the bottom reveal.
M
G D S T Then make two shims equal in thickness to D
your measurement. (Our reveal measured ¸"
Outer drawer-slide shank
member Ï".) Next, apply 2"-wide, cloth-backed,holes,
Œ"
double-faced tape to the false front. Reposi-
countersunk ¸
tion the front in the case opening, inserting
the shims at the bottom to aid16¤" alignment. b
L Firmly press the drawer front against the
false front. Repeat for the other front.
M
From the back of each case, push 2"the
False drawer fully out. Clamp the drawer fronts to
H
front the false fronts, as shown in Photo G. 1fi"
FILENAME:165TvStand5.eps Now
Date: 5-05
Lorna J. drive the screws through the four counter-
D Q R
‹" hardboard ›"
spacer sunk shank holes on the back face of the
D false fronts into the drawer fronts. Remove ›"
the screws, drawer fronts, and tape, and reat- FAL
(Front face
tach the fronts.
F
Positioning an outer slide member on a
drawer-slide spacer (M), as shown, mark the
G
FILENAME:165TvStand5.eps
Clamp a taped drawer front (D/S/T) to a false
frontDate:
(D/Q)5-05
to prevent movement. Then drive
5
Retrieve the backs (N). Then glue and
clamp them in place on the cases, where
shown on Drawing 3, tight against the side
Lorna J.
centers of the horizontal slots. the screws to fasten the fronts together. rear trim (K).
woodmagazine.com 47
Add the cabinet back 6 DOOR (Left door viewed from back)
and shelves
1 From fi" oak plywood, cut the back (U)
to size to fit the opening between the
case backs (N). Draw 3" holes and semicir-
1"-diam. brass knob
2"
‹" groove Œ" deep, centered
1›" hole
Y
cular cutouts (for wire pass-through and fi" deep
panel removal) on the back, where dimen- 3‹"
sioned on Drawing 5. Drill fi" blade start
7⁄64" pilot hole fi" deep
holes through the 3" hole outlines. Then jig- #8-32 x fl" knob 3"
on front face, centered hanger bolt
saw the holes and semicircular cutouts to
shape. Rout a ¤" round-over on the edges of
AA
the holes and cutouts on both faces. ⁄ " pilot
7 64
A
2
N
Mark
Position roller-catch clips on the front
face of the back (U), where dimensioned.
the center of the mounting holes in the Z
holes
fi" deep
120° European-
clips. Drill pilot holes, and attach the clips style inset hinge
B O 19Å" Z
using the supplied screws. To mount the mat- AA
C P
ing double roller catches to the case sides AA
D
(G), engage the catches on the clips, and
Q
position the back in the opening. Mark the ¤ x 5fi x 16Á"
catch
R mounting holes, as shown in Photo H. glass
E
Remove
S the back and catches. Drill pilot
F holes, and screw the catches to the sides. Set #16 x ‡" brad ‹" grooves
G the
T back aside.
›" deep,
H 3
U
From ‡" oak plywood, cut the three
shelves (V) to size. Then, from ‡"-thick 16¨"
stock,
V cut the shelf trim (W) to size. Glue
centered
‡"
I
and clamp the trim to the front edge of the
J W
shelves, flush with the ends and top faces. ›" rabbet
X the shelves aside.
Set fi" deep routed
K ›" X 2"
Y after assembly
L Make the stylish doors for 5fl"
M the
Z
cabinet center ›" Œ"
4Œ"
Lip removed after cutting groove
G
U
tenon ›" long on a rail cutoff, where shown
on Drawing 7. Test-fit the tenon in the groove
in a stile (Z). Adjust your setup, if needed.
7 Chuck a ›" rabbeting bit in your router.
Then, on the back of each door, rout a
fi"-deep rabbet along the inside edges of the
Then cut the tenons on both ends of the bot- stiles (Z), where shown on Drawing 6, remov-
tom and top rails (X, Y). ing the back lip of the grooves. Make sure
Roller-catch
Date: clip
5-05
4
FILENAME:165TvStand6.eps
Noting the left and right top rails (Y) are
mirror images, draw the curve along the
bottom edge, where dimensioned. Bandsaw
the bit guide bearing makes good contact
with the front lip before routing the rabbet.
Square the ends of the rabbets with a chisel.
Lorna J.
Double roller
catch flush
and sand to the lines.
11
G member
T in each hole, and mark the mount- From your leftover edging blanks (D),
Lip removed after * FILENAME:165TvStand7.eps
B O X Y
ing
H U
cutting Now drill pilot holes, andT driveDate:
holes.groove the
W 5-05 crosscut
Z a 3"-long piece Z for the door- U
‹" groove ›" deep,LornaPJ.stop (BB). Using a ‰"‡twist
screws supplied with the hinges. C x 7‹bit in
x 96" your
Oak drill
(5.3 bd. ft.) D
‡ xcentered
9
V To mount the mating hinge-plate 5fi x 96" Oak (4 bd. ‹"ft.) *Plane or resaw
I mem-
D Q
press and drilling overlapping holes,toform
the thicknesses listed in the Materials List.
J W
bers, mark centerpoints on the outside ›"-long slots in the stop, where dimensioned R ‡
›"
face of the case sides (G) for the mounting E R on Drawing 5. Position the*stop on the* bot- * N
X J J K R
K holes, where dimensioned on Drawing 2c. S tom of the top panel (E), centered between M*
Y F
Drill pilot holes. Then secure the mounting the cases, where shown‡on Drawing
x 7‹ 2, and
x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) S
L E Now hang G G
plates
Z
using theX supplied screws. G T 2¤" from the front edge of the front top-
X N
* Y
M the doors, clipping the hinge arm to the 2" panel trim (F), where shown on TDrawing
1fl" W2a. S Z U
H U Z
mounting plate. Adjust the hinge screws as Mark the centers of the slots using an awl.
needed to establish an equal reveal all around V Then drill pilot holes at the ‡ xmarked
5fi x 96" Oak (4 bd. ft.)
locations. fi x 48 x 48" Oak plywood
I
and between the doors. 5fl" Set the stop aside.
W
10 FromCutting
‡"-thickDiagram
BOTTOM RAIL
stock Eplaned to J›"
thick, cut the glass stop blank (AA)K to X
G
Y
G
L E G G
Z
M plywood
‡ x 48 x 96" Oak
fi
Cutting Diagram
Cutting Diagram
C C E G G
A B
nd7.eps P
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) H
BB
P
D ‡ x 48 x 96" Oak plywood
FILENAME:165TvStandCD.eps H O Q V
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
Date: 5-05 C C
Lorna J. O Q
F I * AA * L L
A B H
P
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) O Q V V
BB
H
P
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) D H
D *Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List. O Q
H O Q V
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) R ‡ x 48 x 96" Oak plywood
FILENAME:165TvStandCD.eps
O Q
JF * I *
* *
J AA K* R
L M* L Date:H 5-05
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) Lorna J. Q
O V V
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) X Y D H
T *to the thicknesses
*Plane or resaw W listed inZthe Materials List.
Z U O Q
J* J* K* R
woodmagazine.com M* 49
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.) N
X Y S
Materials List
FINISHED SIZE
Base T W L Matl. Qty.
A side rails ‡" 2‡" 18" O 2
B front/back rails ‡" 2‡" 37" O 2
C* foot halves ‡" 2‹" 4fi" O 8
Panel edging
D edging blanks ‡" ‡" 96" O 9
Top/bottom
top/bottom
E ‡" 21fi" 41" OP 2
panels
top-panel
F ‡" 1fi" 96" O 1
trim blank
Cases (2 needed)
G sides ‡" 21‹" 20" OP 4
H tops/bottoms ‡" 10‡" 20fi" OP 4
S I side front trim ‹" 2‹" 20" O 2
T
side top/bottom
J ‹" 3" 16fi" O 4
S trim
K side rear trim ‹" 3" 20" O 2
T L front trim ‡" 1" 20" O 4
drawer-slide
M ‹" 2" 21‹" O 2
spacers
N backs fi" 11fi" 20" OP 2
Drawers (2 needed)
O shelves ‡" 8" 19fi" OP 4
P shelf rails ‡" 3‹" 19fi" OP 4
Two pieces of front trim (T), with ¤" grooves centered along the front face, create faux false fronts/
Q ‡" 8" 15›" OP 4
three-panel drawer fronts (S) that add style to the entertainment center while cleverly backs
concealing the dual-shelf drawers used for media storage. drawer-slide
R ‡" 1‡" 21" O 4
supports
Time to apply the finish the supplied nails. Now install the shelves
S fronts fi" 8„" 18ˇ" OP 2
and install the shelves (V/W) where desired using shelf supports.
T front trim ‹" 1fl" 8„" O 4
1 4
Remove the doors, drawers, and all hard- Have two pieces of ¤×5fi×16Á" glass Back and shelves
ware. (We marked the door hinge parts cut for the doors. Install the glass and U back fi" 17Œ" 19Œ" OP 1
and the mounting locations to ensure correct glass stops (AA) in each door, where shown V shelves ‡" 16" 17Œ" OP 3
reinstallation and avoid hinge readjustment.) on Drawing 6, using #16ׇ" brads. To pre- W shelf trim ‡" 1‹" 17Œ" O 3
Sand the cabinet, back, drawers, and doors to vent splitting the stops, drill holes in them Doors (2 needed)
220 grit, and remove the dust. Apply a stain, using a #16×1" brad with the head snipped X bottom rails ‡" 2" 5fl" O 2
if you wish. (We used Zar Oil-Based Stain, off. Also, place a piece of cardboard or ¤"
Y top rails ‡" 2fi" 5fl" O 2
no. 110 Salem Maple.) Then apply three hardboard on the glass to protect it while
coats of a clear finish. (We used AquaZar driving the brads. Rehang the doors. Z stiles ‡" 2" 19Å" O 4
dead-blow mallet
and square to the face and rip it to 1¸"
wide. Then joint Î" from the sawn edge for
a finished width of 1¤". Make a copy of the
handle pattern on the WOOD Patterns®
insert and adhere it to the handle with spray
adhesive, where shown on Drawing 1. Install
a ‡" dado blade in your tablesaw and cut
1fi" rabbets ¤" deep, where shown on the
pattern. Now with the pattern facing up,
bandsaw and sand the handle to shape.
W
hether coaxing together the Make a laminated handle
closely fitted dovetails of a
drawer, finger joints of a box, or
mortise-and-tenon joints of a cabinet door,
1 For the handle sides (A), cut two
›×1‹×10" morado blanks. (For an
explanation of our wood choices, see the
you’ll appreciate the concentrated no- sidebar far right.) Then for the handle core A B
rebound striking power of this handsome (B), head cap and base (C), faces (D), and
mallet. Filled with about 5 ounces of loose filler (E) cut one fi×3×12" ash blank. From
›" round-over bit
lead shot and faced with thick leather pads, it this blank, cut a 1‹×8fl" piece for the core A
packs a wallop without leaving a mark. You and set the rest aside. Glue and clamp the To accommodate the handle offset, place a
can make the mallet from shop scraps, or see core between the sides, keeping the edges spacer between the handle and the miter-
Sources for the necessary supplies. and one end flush. gauge extension, and round over the end.
woodmagazine.com 53
ASSEMBLE THE HOLLOW MALLET HEAD
Base C
D
A F
C
F A
D
D
Cap C with ˇ" hole
fi"-thick C
spacer
E F G
Insert a fi"-thick spacer between the handle Apply glue to the base and cap (C) and the Apply glue to the base and cap (C), faces (D),
sides (A), apply glue to the dado in one cheek faces (D) and position them, seating the faces and side (A). Making sure the base, cap, and
(F), and glue and clamp it to the handle. in the base and cap rabbets. faces are seated, clamp the cheek (F) in place.
PATTERNS
®
Trammel, Page 28
fi" deep
A ›"
45° 45°
1fi" rabbets fi" B
BIN LID HINGE ¤" deep
FULL-SIZE END PATTERN
PA
A ›"
¤" round-over
‡"
Hardware Bin,
Page 94
‹"
‡" fi"
7⁄64" pilot hole
‹" ‹" deep
¤" round-over
3‹" diam.
2fi" diam.
2‰" diam.
1„" 1„"
2fi" diam.
6‰" FOOT
A N FULL-SIZE
B O 4" diam. HALF-PATTERN
HALF-PA
ATTERN
Í" Í" 5"
C P
H
3›" diam.
LEG D Q
FULL-SIZE
E R
PATTERN S
F
(4 needed)
G T
H U
V 1Œ" diam.
I
J W 2" diam.
X 2›" diam.
K
Y
L 2" diam.
Z
M
1fi" diam.
1›" diam.
56
B
10"
4"
CAP FULL-SIZE PATTERN
PA
C
2‹" 2‹"
C
C
1›" 1›" C
2‹" 2‹"
4fi"
#10 biscuit-slot
#10 biscuit-slot centerlines
centerlines
C C
LEFT FOOT HALF RIGHT FOOT HALF
FULL-SIZE PATTERN FULL-SIZE PATTERN
(4 needed) (4 needed)
57
Trammel, Page 28
‹" hole,
countersunk
6"
A
EXTENDED BASE
FULL-SIZE PATTERN
(Bottom face shown)
9‹"
¤" round-over
along bottom edge
Centering lines
R=3"
Locate, drill, and countersink holes
on botttom side to mount the
extended base directly to your router.
58
Stop tear-out while…
routing
drilling
sawing
Build these safeguards into
the way you work, and keep
tear-out from tearing up a
promising project.
O
ccasional splinters in your hand may be a fact of life in 1
woodworking, but splintered wood is easy to avoid at your
tablesaw, router, or drill press. Just make prevention of tear-
out gremlins part of your most common woodworking routines.
woodmagazine.com 59
2a 2b 2c
This flush-trim bit’s bearing follows the edge Use flathead wood screws to raise the zero- Position a 2×4 scrap to secure the blank
of the original tablesaw insert to help you cut clearance insert flush with your saw table. A insert as you raise the blade. Avoid covering
a precise copy for a zero-clearance insert. finger hole helps speed insert changes. the cut so you can see its progress.
There’s just one big difference: Dado widths If your factory insert has a hold-down pin,
can vary, requiring zero-clearance inserts to insert a dowel of comparable diameter into
match. You could invest a bundle in manu- the insert. For leveling feet, use #4 flathead
factured inserts if you have a half-dozen wood screws shorter than the thickness of
different dado widths you use regularly. But your insert, as shown in Photo 2b.
for a thriftier solution, make your own inserts To break in a new insert, lower the blade
for just pennies. Here’s how: completely and fit your saw with a fresh
To start, measure the thickness and width insert. Hold the blank insert in place by par-
of your factory insert and plane your hard- tially covering it with a piece of scrap secured
wood stock to that thickness. Rip stock to by clamps, as shown in Photo 2c. Then
just wider than your insert, and cut blanks slowly raise the dado blade until it’s the
about fi" longer than the original insert approximate height of the dado you plan to
Using your factory insert as a pattern, make, as shown in Photo 2d. You can always
trace around the stock. Then bandsaw the raise the blade later to cut deeper dadoes.
shape of the insert, leaving about „" extra. Once you’re done, label the insert by dado
Next, center and attach the insert to the blade width, and save it for future projects.
blank with double-faced tape. Fit your table- Make it a habit to crank out blank tablesaw A custom-made tablesaw insert prevents
mounted router with a pattern or flush-trim inserts in bulk so you’ll have one available to tear-out by keeping the blade from pulling
bit so that the bearing rides on the factory fit every dado width. wood fibers below the table surface.
woodmagazine.com 61
Two methods to
keep your holes whole
D rill presses don’t require much to make
them free from tear-out. Start by choos-
ing the best bits for the job: brad-point bits
for holes up to fi", and Forstner bits for holes
larger than that. Then spend a few minutes
tuning up your drill press.
L
ooking to craft a unique item to delight Start with the striking
someone special? This stylish chest, contrasting-wood case
made with eye-catching curly maple
and wengé, is just the ticket. Though the proj-
ect looks sophisticated, the construction’s
1 To form a 5Á"-wide contrasting-wood
blank for the case sides (A) and back (B),
cut a 4Á×30" piece from ‡"-thick curly maple
surprisingly simple, thanks to the straightfor- and a 1×30" piece from ‡"-thick wengé. (Feel
ward dado, rabbet, and groove joinery, and a free to use other woods of your choice.) Edge-
full-size pattern for quickly contouring the glue the pieces together, keeping the faces and
legs. Anxious to get started but need materi- ends flush. Although a hard and dark wood,
als and/or hardware? Relax—you’ll find a which contrasts nicely with the curly maple,
source for kits, listed at the end of this article, wengé splinters and chips easily. To avoid these
to get you quickly into the shop. problems, see the Shop Tips, opposite page.
4
H
Using a standard ¤"-kerf blade in your Drawing 2, to receive the ¤" hardboard drawer A E
V
tablesaw, cut on theI inside face of the runners (G), where shown on Drawing 1.
fi" D
J W Í" F
H fi" rabbet
1b HINGE MOUNTING DETAIL
X fi" deep
K
Y fi"
‰" chamfer J Í"
L K J
#4 x fi" brass Z
F.H. wood screw M K
fi" J
1‹ x ˇ" brass full- L
stop box hinge 1‹ x ˇ" brass
5⁄64"
full-stop box hinge
1‹" notch pilot holes 1 EXPLODED VIEW
¸" deep Á" deep
ˇ"
M 1‹" notch
¸" deep
B 7 x 12" adhesive-backed felt M
12" ‡"
E H A
A
1‹"
H 7fi"
G C
H 3‰" E
B G
F A
E
I 12fi" 7fi"
N ‡" 6‰"
O D I F H
13" 1"
R Q fi"
N I
P
Q fl x fl" adhesive-backed felt
N
11Œ" P
SHOP TIPS
How to work successfully with wengé
Wengé (pronounced when-gay), gay), an exotic wood from equatorial Africa, has a beautifully straight
gay
but coarse grain structure that makes it prone to splintering and chipping if you don’t take these
precautions while working with it:
■ Check the ends of the stock for cracks before cutting it. Look carefully because the dark coffee
color makes it difficult to see defects. Depending on the extent and location of any cracks found, you
may need to select another workpiece. Although the fine, black veins that run through the wood can
look like cracks, don’t jump to conclusions. If you don’t see cracks, the wood is likely okay.
■ For the cleanest cuts, use sharp carbide-tipped blades and bits and a zero-clearance insert. Be
sure to back up all cuts with scrap to avoid splintering and splitting, such as that shown at right.
right
■ Ease all edges by lightly sanding with 220-grit sandpaper.
■ When bandsawing contours to shape, stay at least „" away from the marked cutlines, and then
sand to the lines.
■ After crosscutting, remove any whiskers from the ends of the wood with sandpaper rather than
your fingers. This will avoid additional splintering and prevent possible skin irritation as well.
■ When sanding, start with 150 grit and work up to finer grits. Starting with a coarser grit creates
scratches that take more sanding to remove.
woodmagazine.com 65
where shown on Drawing 2, to receive the
sides (A). 10 From ¤" hardboard, cut the four
drawer runners (G) to size to fit the
Next up: the shapely legs
and leg fillers
Note: If your dado blade does not produce a
clean, flat-bottomed surface, cut the rabbets
a hair less than ‹" deep. Then sand them
grooves in the sides (A). Insert the runners in
the grooves without glue for now. 1 From ‡"-thick wengé, cut two 1„×28"
pieces to form a blank for the legs (H).
A
smooth and to final depth using a block of
wood wrapped with 150-grit sandpaper. 2 PARTS VIEW
This will ensure tight case joints that are vis- 7fi"
ible with the lid open. You also can use this 1"
A
technique when cutting the rabbets in the
legs (H). 1Í"
B O
thick, cut the two front fillers (F) to 13"
P B fi"
C fi×3‰".
8
A N
D Q Dry-assemble and clamp together the 1"
B O sides (A), back (B), top and bottom front
E R rails (C, D), top and bottom panels (E), and
C P B
F
S front fillers (F), and verify the parts fit
together correctly. Disassemble the case, and 4Á" fi" rabbet BACK
D Q (Inside face shown) fi" rabbet
G T ‹" deep ‹" deep
make any needed adjustments. D
9
E R 5Á" ¤" grooves
H U Apply glue to the rabbets in the back (B). B ‹" deep
S Assemble the sides (A) to the back with D
F V
I the top and bottom edges flush. Then slide
G T the top and bottom panels (E) into the D
J W 1" ‡"
grooves to square the assembly, and clamp it ›"
H U
X
K together. Next, glue and clamp the top and fl" All dimensions for tinted area
V 6fi" also apply to bottom front rail D .
I Y bottom front rails (C, D) to the case, as
L D
J W
Z shown in Photo A, flush with the top and
M bottom edges of the sides (A). After the glue fi" fi" rabbet ‹" deep
X ¤" groove ‹" deep
K dries, glue and clamp the front fillers (F) in D
Y C
position, where shown on Drawing 1, flush
L TOP FRONT RAIL
with the outside faces of the sides. 1‹" 1" (Inside face shown)
Z
M
GLUE THE FRONT RAILS TO THE CASE 13"
A C
D
SHOP TIP
C
E
Bandsaw small parts safely
C
using a guide block
To keep fingers out of harm’s way and
E
maintain safe control when bandsawing
small parts, double-face-tape a guide
block at least 3" wide and of suitable
thickness and length to the parts. Using
B
a jewelry box leg (H) as an example,
A cut a 3×6‰" piece from fi"-thick scrap
or plywood. Tape the piece to the leg
4x4
rabbet. Then, holding the guide, band-
support
blocks saw the leg to shape, as shown at right.
right
fi × 3 × 6‰"
A guide block
With the case on 4×4 support blocks for double-face-taped
clamp clearance, glue and clamp the top and to leg rabbet
bottom front rails (C, D) to the sides (A).
2
P both ends
C Crosscut the blank to form four 6‰"-
D Q long legs. Next, make four copies of the fl" notch K
leg full-size pattern from the WOOD Pat- ¤" deep 8Œ"
E Rterns® insert. Spray-adhere a pattern to the
1¤"
Soutside faces of each leg, folding the pattern ‰" chamfer
F 1¤"
where shown. Œ"
G
H
3
T With a leg positioned with the “Cut 1”
U
side of the pattern faceup and using a
guide block for safety, as explained in the
13" L
‹" groove
‡" deep,
centered
J 8Œ"
VShop Tip, opposite page, bottom, bandsaw ‹" ›" rabbets
I ¤" deep
J Wand sand to the curved pattern line. Reattach
the cutoff to the leg with double-faced tape. Glue applied to fi"
X both faces and
K Then reposition the leg on the guide block ‡"
Ywith the “Cut end of handle L ,
A N 2” side of the pattern up. both ends
L Bandsaw and sand to shape. Remove the
Z
M attached cutoffB Oand tape. Repeat to shape
3a LID DETAIL (Viewed from back) 3b HANDLE NOTCH DETAIL
the remaining legs.
C P
E R
shown on Drawing 1, position the case on a
S with the top edge down. fl" L
flat worksurface
F
Now glue and G T
band-clamp the legs to the K
case, flush with the worksurface. ¤"
5 From ‡"-thick
H U wengé planed to fi" thick,
cut a fi×8" Vworkpiece to form the leg
6
I
fillers (I). Crosscut four ‡"-long fillers from Draw the curves along the outside edges draw the curve along the front edge, where
the piece. Now J glue
W and clamp the fillers to of the breadboard ends (J) and along the dimensioned on Drawings 3 and 3b. Cut the
the inside of theX legs (H), tight against the front edge of the panel (K), where dimen- notches using a fine-tooth handsaw. Then
bottom edges K of the case. sioned on Drawing 3. Then bandsaw and bandsaw and sand the curve to shape.
8
Y
L sand the curves to shape. To assemble the lid, apply glue to only
Make the
and hinge
M
beautiful lid,
Z
it to the case 7 From ‡"-thick wengé resawn or planed
to ‹" thick to fit the groove in the panel
the back 2" of the tongues on the panel
(K) and the areas on the notched ends of the
3
L
Using a dado blade in your tablesaw and
a zero-clearance insert, cut a centered
J
‹" groove ›" deep along the inside edge of
the breadboard ends (J), where shown on
Drawing 3. Raise the blade to ‡". Now cut a
K
centered groove along the front edge of the
panel (K) to receive the handle (L). L Glue applied to
woodmagazine.com 67
HINGE-MOUNT THE LID
1fi"-
long line B 4 DRAWER ((Viewed
Viewed from back
back))
fi" from
back
¤" grooves
edge of ¤" deep
panelA K N ¤" from bottom edge
‹" dado 11Œ"
B O A
¤" deep R
‹"
C P 1" N
‡"
D brass
Q ‹"
1‹×ˇ" ›"
1fi" P
full-stop box ‹" rabbets
hingeE R ‹" deep
K H 1fi" 11fl"
S
Breadboard 5fi x 11›"
F adhesive-backed
end/panel joint ‹"
G T felt
O Q
11fl" ‡"
H U
J
V ‹"
I
N
J W
fi"-thick 7" ¤" groove
C X spacer ¤" deep
K ¤" grooves ¤" deep
AlignYthe case hinges with the marked lines ¤" from bottom edge
on
L the lid panel (K) and the breadboard end
(J) and
Z panel joints. Mark the mounting holes.
M
at the front. A ¤" gap between the handle
and the bottom of the groove in the panel
with the marked lines on the panel and
breadboard end/panel joints, as shown in 2 From ‡"-thick curly maple planed to fi"
thick, cut the fronts (P) to size.
accommodates the panel movement.) Now
assemble the breadboard ends (J) on the
panel, flush at the back; install the handle;
Photo C. (If the outside edges of your
hinges don’t exactly align with the joints,
simply center the lid side-to-side.) Mark
3 Using a standard blade in your tablesaw,
cut a ¤" groove ¤" deep ¤" from the
bottom edge of the sides (N), backs (O), and
and clamp the assembly together, as shown. the mounting holes, and then drill pilot fronts (P) to fit your ¤" hardboard for the
Remove the squeeze-out. holes. Sand off the marked lines. Now drive bottoms (Q), where shown on Drawing 4.
fi" 5Á"
L Matl. Qty.
7fi" EM/W 2
B on O Drawing 4. Bandsaw and sand the A A B K K
sioned on Drawing 1, and the drawer bottoms (Q), B* back fi" 5Á" 13" EM/W 1
handles
C Pto shape. Then glue and clamp them where shown on Drawing 4. Remove the C top front rail fi" 1‹" 13" CM 1
to the rabbets in the drawer fronts (P), keep- backing, and press the felt pieces into place.
D bottom front rail
3
fi" 1" 13" W 1
ingDthe Qends flush. Finally, Jreattach the lid
J
and slide Lin the
8
top and bottom
E
Noting
R the marked locations, slide the drawers.
H
Now, H
head forH
a jewelry
H
store, E
panels
R ¤" 7fi" 12fi"
F
H 2
drawers into the case. Check for an equal pick out a nice item for the box, and surprise
S A A B F front fillers D ‹" fi" 3‰" W 2
„"F reveal on each side of the drawers, and a lucky recipient with your thoughtfulness IG
verify they slide freely, but without loose- and handiwork. ¿ drawer runners ¤" Á" 7‹" H 4
G T
ness. If needed, remove the drawer runners H* legs Í" Í" 6‰" LW 4
N N O
(G),HandUsand them or cut new ones to achieve I* leg fillers fi" fi" ‡" W 4
the desired
V fit. Then glue the runners in place Lid
I
in the case grooves. J breadboard ends fi" 1¤" 8Œ" W 2
J W
Q Q
TimeX to apply the finish K* panel fi" 8Œ" 12‡" ECM 1
and
K
install
Y the felt L handle ‹" 1¤" 13" W 1
1
G M hinge support ˇ" ‡" 12" CM 1
LRemove the lid, hinges, and drawers
from
Z the case. Sand any areas that need it E Drawers (2 needed)
M
to 220 grit, and remove the dust. Then apply N* sides ‹" 1fi" 7" M 4
O backs ‹" 1fi" 11fl" M 2
P fronts fi" 1fi" 11Œ" CM 2
E
Q bottoms ¤" 5‡" 11fl" H 2
R handles ‹" ‡" 11Œ" W 2
Cutting Diagram ¤ x 24 x 24" Hardboard *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
Materials key: EM/W–edge-joined curly maple and
M* wengé, CM–curly maple, W–wengé, H–hardboard,
C* P* P* LW–laminated wengé, ECM–edge-joined curly maple,
M–maple.
A* A* B* K* K* Supplies: Spray adhesive; cloth-backed double-faced tape;
#4×fi" steel flathead wood screw (1) and #4×fi" brass
‡ x 7‹ x 60" Curly maple (3.3 bd. ft.) flathead wood screws (8); paraffin wax; 9×12" adhesive-
*Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List. backed brown felt (3), available at craft and fabric supply
stores, such as Michaels and Jo-Ann.
J* J* L*
R* Blade and bit: Dado-blade set, 45° chamfer router bit.
H* H* H* H* F*
Sources
A* A* B* D* Hinges: 1‹×ˇ" full-stop box hinges (1 pr.) no. 01B03.02,
‡ x 5fi x 48" Wengé (2 bd. ft.) I * $17.90 plus shipping. Call or click Lee Valley, 800/871-8158;
leevalley.com.
N* N* O* Kits: For hardware and lumber/hardware kits for the jewelry
box, call or click Heritage Building Specialties, 800/524-4184;
‡ x 3fi x 36" Maple (1 bd. ft.) heritagewood.com.
woodmagazine.com
Q Q 69
SHOP TESTED
clamp-on
tool guides
Need a reliable straightedge
to guide your power tools?
We tested eight models and
learned that paying more
doesn’t always
get you more.
S
ince its debut in 1982, Griset Indus- one edge of a crooked board, or as a quick Trolley’s Converter Router Trolley package a
tries’ Tru-Grip Clamp ’N Tool Guide and easy bandsaw fence. Some models can carriage/subbase with the rail; however,
has been king of the clamp-on-straight- even be used as bar clamps. For purposes of clamps are not included with Router Trolley.)
edge hill. Because of that success, more this article, we’ll focus on each model’s per- Here’s what to look for in each of these
manufacturers have entered the fray and now formance while routing. three components:
at least eight different models compete for ■ A rigid rail. Most of the tested models
your time, attention, and tool-buying budget. Three components; three come with at least one rail capable of work-
With prices for the basic guide ranging from key performance areas ing a 48"-wide or -long workpiece. In our
$35 to $140 (not including accessories that Clamp-on tool guides typically consist of: deflection test—applying 10 pounds of side-
can add $100 or more to the cost), we decided ■ an extruded aluminum rail ways pressure against the center of the
to compare features and performance. Here’s ■ clamps to secure that rail to the workpiece rail—the best rails bowed only .001" (EZ
the straight scoop. ■ a carriage/subbase assembly (usually opt- Smart); the worst, .037", or about Î" (All-
ional) that rides the rail with your router or In-One). We found that range acceptable.
Why would you want one? circ saw mounted to it To machine workpieces longer or wider,
A clamp-on tool guide’s essential duty is to Our advice: Pay the extra money for the you must either join another rail onto the end
provide a straight and convenient edge for carriage/subbase, if you can, for two reasons. of the first or switch to a longer version of the
guiding your router (to cut shelf dadoes in a First, the router can’t stray from the rail same guide. Two-piece rails are inherently
bookcase, for example) or circular saw whether by dust buildup or operator error. weaker at that joint, generally resulting in
(breaking down sheet goods into manage- And, we found the rails deflected less more deflection (Router Trolley’s rail bowed
able sizes). Once you have one in your shop, because we pushed only parallel to the rail, .130"—more than ¤"—at the center of an 8'
you’ll find many other uses: straightening not against it. (EZ Smart’s SRS50 and Tool cut) unless supported as shown at far right.
woodmagazine.com
THE COMPLETE
LOWDOWN ON
EIGHT CLAMP-ON [photo: Hartville Tool #31956]
TOOL GUIDES
BRAND E. Emerson Tool Co. EZ Smart Hartville Tool
MODEL All-In-One Smart Router System SRS50 Red Line
CARRIAGE MOUNTING STYLE Noncaptured Noncaptured Captured
LOSS OF CUTTING DEPTH TO SUBBASE 11
⁄ 64" ¤" ‹"
RAIL MOUNTING METHOD Edge grip with cam-lever clamp Wraparound with screw clamp Wraparound with cam-lever clamp
MAXIMUM WORKPIECE THICKNESS Unlimited 2‹" 1„"
CAN GUIDE BE USED AS A BAR CLAMP? Yes No No
GUIDE TYPE FOR LONG WORKPIECES (OVER 48") Cannot clamp longer than 50" Butt-joined short rails Butt-joined short rails
LACK OF DEFLECTION AT CENTER OF 4' GUIDE C A A
LACK OF DEFLECTION AT CENTER OF 8' GUIDE Not sold in 8' length A B
Clamps can’t slide out accidentally, Cam lever is faster than threaded
Slide movable jaw against workpiece,
but must extend past rail to fit a 48" clamps, but clamps can accidentally
EASE OF MOUNTING RAIL TO WORKPIECE then flip the locking lever.
workpiece. slide out of rail.
A B B
LACK OF WORKPIECE MARRING A A A
One corner dinged; needed repair to
DURABILITY (lack of carriage/subbase damage from 4' drop to No damage apparent No damage apparent
fit on rail.
concrete floor)
B A A
Similar in appearance to Tru-Grip The least deflection of the two-piece Subbase not available for this model;
Clamp ’N Tool Guide, but this guide guides. Subbase travels up to 6½" user must provide ¼"-thick subbase.
demonstrated higher deflection perpendicular to the rail for multiple Captured carriage must be installed
measurements. A large number of cuts without moving rail. A 48" and removed from one end of rail.
PERFORMANCE SUMMARY rail-mounted accessories (including workpiece pushes the limits of the Setscrews on the “splice” between
a pocket-hole jig and bandsaw 50"-long rails. Subbase can be used joined rails can damage rail if over-
resawing fence) add to this guide’s off rail with optional edge guide and tightened. 1„" workpiece-thickness
versatility in the shop. circle trammel. capacity is smallest in test.
STANDARD ACCESSORIES (2) R
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES (2) B,C,F,L,P,Q,R,S C,E,T,X U
AVAILABLE CAPACITIES
12", 24", 36", 50" 24", 36", 48", 96" 55", 110"
(maximum workpiece that fits between clamps)
WARRANTY Lifetime Lifetime Lifetime
COUNTRY OF ASSEMBLY (3) T U C
PRICE OF 48"-CAPACITY GUIDE
$80 $180 $85 (+ user-supplied subbase)
WITH ROUTER CARRIAGE/SUBBASE (4)
877/888-6759, 732/259-9984, 800/345-2396,
FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL OR CLICK: eemersontool.com eurekazone.com hartvilletool.com
52", 116" 48", 96" 30", 54", 99" 24", 36", 50" 56", 112"
woodmagazine.com 73
Woodworkers’ Tales in ...
... the fine art of
penny-pinching
We’ve all heard anecdotes
concerning the odd things people
do to save a little money. For
instance, there was the lady who
refused to throw away cellophane
wrap. Instead, she hand-washed
each sheet after use, and then
stuck it to the side of her refrig-
erator to dry! Apparently, that tale
is just the tip of a huge, miserly
iceberg. That’s what one Georgia
woodworker—himself an admitted
cheapskate—discovered when he
posted the message below on the
General Woodworking forum at
woodmagazine.com.
H
is attention-grabbing post gener- Okay, here goes. Someone has to be first. I can’t bear to throw away pieces of wood that
ated nearly 50 responses in just a might have a use (I also check the neighbors trash cans for usable wood) until they get so
few days! We’ve edited those down small that nobody can do anything with them. Then I give them to a fellow woodworker who
to, uh, well, the “stingiest.” So have some heats his shop with wood. Nothing is wasted.
fun reading them—we sure did! And who Dan Shaw, Sunbury, Ohio
knows, you may pick up some tips for sav-
ing a few pennies that could be put toward
that new tool you’ve been dreaming about. My girlfriend makes a chicken-and-artichoke dish that I don't
First, the post that started the avalanche of like very much. Problem is, the jars are such a good size for
responses: shop use. Every time I am running low on jars, I’ll ask her when
we’re having that for dinner again. Next thing I know, I have
Yesterday, as I was washing/cleaning a three or four new jars for the shop!
paint stirring stick (came from the store for Shorty
free, and I’ve had it and used it for years), I
got to wondering just who is the stingiest one
among us? And tell us what it is you do that
actually saves you money with your wood-
working, or maybe it’s just a little quirk like
my paint sticks that I just hate to throw away.
Come on now, be a man and fess up. Ladies,
you’re invited also!
Buck Nall, Alma, Ga.
I save old nails, screws, wood scraps, pill bottles, 35mm film canisters, Spam cans, coffee
cans, magazines, Xerox paper, old magnets, bits of metal, and hardware of all descrip-
tions. You name it and I probably save it. Every five years, I decide to clean up and usually
get rid of about 30 percent, but save the rest for the next “clean up.” Every time I throw
something away, the next day I find that I need it.
Ronald Seto, Vancleave, Miss.
I get free wooden pallets from work. They’re pine (knotty) and 16' long, made of 2×4s
and 1-bys. I take them apart and use the wood for various projects, and also take the
nails out and re-use them. I haven’t figured out what to use the staples for yet, so I don't
save them. With all the found wood, I built my 20×20' shop, a 12×16' shed, and I am
starting a finishing room off the barn. Total cost: about $500 for things I didn’t have. Sandpaper scraps—have several coffee cans
Zanywoodworker full of them—always figure they’re good at
the next higher grit.
Carl Love, Annapolis, Md.
Overall dimensions:
■ 35fi" wide × 12‡" deep × 50" high 2a CASE CORNER DETAIL
■ For the board feet of lumber and
other items needed to build this project, #8 x 2" F.H.
see page 80. wood screw Drill at a
10° angle.
Start with the case 10°
A
1
¸" shank hole,
From ‡"-thick stock, edge-join oversize countersunk ˇ"
Drill angled screw holes ˇ" from the ends
blanks for the sides (A), top and bottom of the top and bottom (B) into the sides (A).
(B), cap (C), and shelves (D). Sand the blanks B Then drive the screws.
smooth and cut them to the sizes listed on the
Materials List. To assist you in accurately ⁄ " pilot hole
7 64
1‹" deep A
crosscutting the parts, see the tablesaw jig on
page 96.
2
12‡" 35fi"
With a dado blade in your tablesaw, cut
‡" rabbets ›" deep in the ends of the C
sides (A), where shown on Drawing 1. Then ‹" Roman ogee on #8 x 2" F.H. wood screw
ends and front edge
cut a ‹" rabbet ›" deep along each inside 11"
¸" shank hole, drilled at a
back edge. Now lay out the shelf-support B 10° angle and countersunk
hole centers where dimensioned, and using a 33‹"
2 EXPLODED VIEW #16 x ‡"
wire nail
1 SIDE (Inside face shown)
11‹" 33‹"
‡" rabbet ›" deep
29"
G A ‹" rabbet ›" deep
1‡"
I
‡" rabbet
›" deep 1‹"
Shelf support
10fl"
A N 32›"
D A
B O F
FILENAME:165Bookcase2a.eps 1" E 43"
Date:
P 4-05 F ‡" 2 EXPLODED VIEW
C Lorna J. ‹" Roman ogee
D Q ‹" stopped chamfers
Back 1‡" from ends 43"
E R edge D
S 1‡" 43"
F 1‡" E
‹" holes
G T ›" deep ‹" rabbet
43" ›" deep ›"
H U
V B
I
J W A 1‡"
X H O
K ›" cove 11‹"
Y N
L
Z M O
M 10fl" 2fi"
M J
K
L
#8 flat washer
#8 x 1‡" F.H. wood screw
#8 x 1‡" panhead screw
‡" rabbet ›" deep woodmagazine.com 77
2b ROMAN OGEE DETAIL 2c SHELF DETAIL rip the fi"-thick cove from the edge of the
blank. Set aside the rest of the blank for parts
K and L. Check the distance between the
D stiles (F), and cut the cove to length. Finish-
‹" Roman ogee bit
sand the cove and glue and clamp it to the
„" 2d COVE EDETAIL front edge of the bottom (B) with the bottom
fi"
edges flush, where shown on Drawing 2d.
C ›" ‡"
9 Cut the back (I) to size, finish-sand it,
and set it aside.
2d COVE DETAIL
Now make the base
Router table fi" H B 1
From fi" birch plywood, cut the base
panel (J) to size.
‡"
2
Retrieve the fi"-thick blank left from
making part H and rip two fi"-wide strips
from it. Miter-cut one strip to length for the
3
FILENAME:165Bookcase2d.eps
where
Date: 4-05shown on Drawing 2c. Now finish- one edge of the blank. Do not change the 2 EXPLODED
Cut the fillers (M) to size.VIEW
Glue and
sandJ. the shelves.
Lorna router-table setup. Then, using your tablesaw, clamp them to the base panel assembly
Pivot to
fence.
F
1‡"
Feed Pivot away
direction F from fence.
Bit
touches
the end.
1"
M
35fi"
Mitered
ends O
L 12‡"
Location of M
12¤" ¸" hole,
J countersunk
on bottom face
34‹" ‹" hole
12fl"
Mitered
A N ends
D Q
3b FOOT MOUNTING DETAIL (Front section view)
E R
S 2"
F
‹" Roman ogee M
G T N ‡"
3a BASE FILLER DETAIL
›" cove J fi"
H U
V K ‹" hole J
I M
J W 3 BASE
K L
X
K
FILENAME:165Bookcase3.eps
Y
Date: L4-05 Œ"
Œ"
Lorna J. Z
M
woodmagazine.com 79
FOR EASY FINISHING, TAKE YOUR LEGS FOR A SPIN
Dowel
Turn
screw
chuck
wrapped
by hand.
with
masking
tape
Paper towel
B C D
With the drill press running at 450 rpm, sand Turning the drill-press chuck by hand, apply With the drill press running, use a paper towel
the feet with a progression of 120-, 150-, and stain with a brush. Then remove most of the to finish wiping the stain. Remove the feet
220-grit sandpaper. excess stain with a paper towel. from the chuck and set them aside to dry.
On to the finish based satin polyurethane, sanding between #8 flat washers at the front, where shown on
SHOP TIP
No-mar installation solution
Materials List
FINISHED SIZE
Cutting Diagram Case T W L Matl. Qty.
When screwing the feet into the base,
getting a good grip and adequate A* sides ‡" 11‹" 43" EC 2
leverage on them can be difficult. To B* top and bottom ‡" 11" 33‹" EC 2
solve both problems without marring
the finish, wrap the feet with a rag and C* cap ‡" 12‡" 35fi" EC 1
turn them with a strap wrench, as shown D* shelves ‡" 10Œ" 32›" EC 2
at right. We purchased a plastic- Rag E shelf rails ‡" fi" 32›" C 2
handled two-wrench set at a home F stiles ‡" 2fi" 43" C 2
center for $10. Strap
wrench G rail ‡" 1‹" 29" C 1
H* cove fi" ‡" 29" C 1
Cutting Diagram I back ‹" 33‹" 43" CP 1
A E A Base
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Cherry (5.3 bd. ft.) (2 needed) J base panel fi" 12¤" 34‹" BP 1
K* front cove fi" fi" 35‹" C 1
B B
L* side coves fi" fi" 12fl" C 2
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Cherry (5.3 bd. ft.) (2 needed)
M fillers ‡" 2‡" 33fi" C 2
C C N* front ogee ‡" 1" 35fi" C 1
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Cherry (5.3 bd. ft.) O* side ogees ‡" 1" 12‡" C 2
bookcase
over with a
„" shoulder STILE
options A
C
N
O
P ›" round-overs
with a
A few simple
D Q
changes will give „" shoulder
your project a Rwhole new look.
E
S
F
I
t’s amazing howG you
T can completely pictured here show only a few possibilities.
alter the appearance of a project For more foot profiles, as well as a wide
U
H dimensions ›" round-
without changing or range of other manufactured wood parts, SHELF
over with a
construction methods.
I We
V drew up see below. ¿ „" shoulder
different combinations of stile treatments,
J W Sources for more foot styles
routed edges, and foot profiles for the
bookcase on page 76, X •Adams Wood Products: Call 423/587-2942, or go to
K and came up with adamswoodproducts.com.
BASE
Queen Anne
the new looks shown here.
Y Changing some •Osborne Wood Products: Call 800/849-8876, or go to Adams ACR05 -1 Maple
L
of these features amounts to little more osbornewood.com. -2 Cherry
Z -3 Red oak
than choosing a different
M router bit. And •Rockler: Call 800/279-4441, or go to rockler.com.
•Van Dyke’s Restorers: Call 800/558-1234, or go to -5 Mahogany
with ready-made legs, like the ones shown, -6 Walnut
you have lots of options. The ideas vandykes.com. -10 Paint
grade
TOP TOP TOP
Classical
cove and
round STILE STILE STILE
A N
‹" edge ‹" round-
fi" flute bead over
B O
C P
D Q
FILENAME:165BookcaseOption1.eps
E R Date: 5-05
S Lorna J.
F
G T
SHELF SHELF SHELF
H U
V
I
Classical ‹" chamfer
J W cove and ‹" bead
Classical cove
and round round
X
K
Y
BASE L French Tulip BASE Van Dyke’s
BASE Osborne 4100
ZRockler 36050 Oak AL-02284327 Maple
M 36060 Maple Available in AL-02284356 Oak
36069 Cherry Alder Pine
Cherry Red birch ‹" chamfer
‹" bead Hickory Red oak
Maple Walnut
WORKSURFACE SELECTOR
rial Hardboard: Softwood Plywood Particleboard Medium-Density Fiberboard
Mate Tempered & Standard (MDF)
Ground wood pulp combined with Face-glued layers of thin softwood Wood shredded into tiny chips Cellulose fibers combined
What resins pressed into sheets; may veneers and combined with adhesives, with synthetic resin and
it is be smooth on one or both sides; Veneer Grades: then heated and compressed to formed under heat and
tempered is harder and denser A- plugged, smooth sandable form sheets pressure
than standard surface
B- plugs and 1" tight knots
allowed
C-1½" tight knots and sanding
defects allowed
D- 2½" knots and splits allowed
ble ¤" and ‹" thicknesses in 4×8' ‹", ˇ", ı", fi", fl", 23 /32", and ‡" ¼", ½", fl", ‡", 1", and 1¤" MDF available in ‹", ›",
Availa sheets thicknesses in 4×8' sheets; interior thicknesses available in 4×8' fi", fl", ‡", and 7 /8" thick-
sizes and exterior available sheets; Grades: PBU for floor nesses in both 4×8' and 49×97"
underlayment; M-S, M-1, M-2, and sheets; lightweight MDF, same
M-3 industrial grades sizes and 20% lighter
Home centers carry 4×8' sheets, Home centers and building-supply Home centers carry ¼"-¾" PBU Building material suppliers carry
Find plus half and quarter sheets in stores grade; M grades found at standard and lightweight
e
it her standard and tempered grades building-material and millwork MDF in ‡" sheets. Home
suppliers centers carry standard MDF
Readily available; easy to cut; Readily available; easy to cut; face PBU grade readily available and Flat; no face or core voids;
Pros relatively stable; takes paint well veneers can have a nice inexpensive; particleboard cuts consistent thickness; glues
appearance; stainable and easily and is fairly stable. well; cuts and machines easily;
paintable stable; paints well.
Standard grade susceptible to Surface scratches easily; interior Heavy; holds fasteners poorly; Heavy (100 lbs. per ‡"
Cons moisture; can’t sand faces; plies may have voids; face not moisture-resistant sheet for standard MDF); holds
flexible; needs substrate support; veneers often patched screws poorly; scratches and
edges damage easily; holds gouges are difficult to repair
fasteners poorly
$10 (¼"×4'×8', tempered) $25+ (¾"×4'×8', A grade on one $12+ per sheet for PBU grade; $20+ per ¾" sheet; lightweight
Cost $8 (¼"×4'×8', standard) face, C grade on other) M grade prices range about 20% MDF prices range about 25%
higher higher
Tempered-grade sheets are Good for shop cabinets and Good as substrate (underneath a Excellent for shop cabinets
for
Best excellent for replacable countertops harder material, such as plastic and as a substrate for plastic
benchtops. laminate) for countertops laminates and hardboards
Particleboard faced with plastic Core materials include particle- 1‡"-thick laminated maple strips, 1fi"-thick softwoods—spruce, fir,
laminate (several layers of paper board, medium-density fiberboard sanded smooth and flat or pine
impregnated with resins, bonded (MDF), fireproof mineral core, or
together and cured under heat wood staves surrounded by solid
and pressure) wood and veneered with hardwood
veneers
Laminate countertops available in Typical sizes: 30", 32", and 36" 24", 30", and 36" widths; 2×4, 2×6, 2×8, 2×10, and 2×12;
25", 36", and 48" widths and widths, 84" length and 1›" 48", 60", 84", and 96" lengths lengths from 8'
lengths from 2' to 12' thickness
Home centers and building Home centers and building material Home centers and mail-order Home centers and building-material
material suppliers suppliers catalogs suppliers
Cleans easily; inexpensive; Readily available; nice appearance; Nice appearance; stable; flat; Readily available; inexpensive;
readily available; many colors and stainable or paintable; flat surface scratches can be repaired; adds easily repaired; cuts and fastens
patterns available mass to bench well
Scratches easily; hard to repair; Holds screws poorly; scratches Expensive; heavy; scratches easily Dents and scratches easily; not
needs fine-tooth blades when easily; can be expensive attractive; has tendency to twist and
cutting to prevent chipping warp
$10+ per lineal foot, depending on $100+, seconds or damaged doors $200+ for a 24×60" slab, plus $2-$8 per lineal foot for a 24"-wide
pattern and width are considerably cheaper shipping if necessary surface; check local prices
Good for outfeed tables Good for workbenches and Excellent surface for workbenches Good for inexpensive worktables
assembly tables and assembly tables
woodmagazine.com 85
young
artist’s easel
two sides
double
the fun
AT A G L A N C E
This project suits kids age 3–7 years.
For the board feet of lumber and
other items needed to build the easel, 150'-long roll provides a quick-change rails, where shown on Drawing 2. Now cut
see page 89. steady supply. (See Source.) the 18° bevels at the bottom ends of the legs,
orienting them as shown on Drawing 1.
W 2
hat is your young artist’s favorite Build two leg assemblies Chuck a ‹" round-over bit into your
medium: crayons, paint, or chalk?
With a chalkboard on one side
and cleats to secure paper on the other, this
1 Cut the legs (A) and rails (B) to the sizes
listed on the Materials List. Then install
a dado blade in your tablesaw and form half-
table-mounted router and rout the top
front end of each leg (A), where shown on
Drawing 1. Then rout round-overs along the
fun-filled project helps bring out the creativ- lap joints by cutting 2" dadoes ›" deep in top front edges of the upper rails (B) and the
ity in any child. And don’t worry about the legs, where dimensioned on Drawing 1, bottom front edges of the lower rails (B),
storing large sheets of paper. A 24"-wide, and 2" rabbets ›" deep in the ends of the where shown on Drawing 2.
4
A
24‹" ‹" round-
Apply glue and assem-
Third:
overs ble the leg (A) and rail tighten snugly
(B) frames, as shown in
Photo A. With the glue dry,
26‡" sand the joints smooth.
A
A
1"
5
Chuck a ›" rabbet bit
match the thickness of the melamine-faced the rounded corners of the rabbeted open-
2 EXPLODED VIEW
44"
fiberboard used for the panels (C), and rout a ings. For another way to form the rounded
2" dado rabbet along the front inside edges of each panel corners, see the Shop Tip on page 88.
›" deep
frame (A/B), where shown on Drawing 2.
Finish-sand the frames.
CLEAT
7
Paint one panel (C) with chalkboard
paint and let it dry. (We used Rust-Oleum
2"
Bandsaw
6
Check the dimensions of the rabbeted Specialty Chalk Board paint.) Then glue and
openings, and cut the panels (C) to size. clamp the panels into the rabbeted openings
and sand the panel
Å" corners to match in the leg frames.
LEG
⁄ " hole
25 64
fl" deep
on outside ¸"
edges of shank hole,
legs 2 EXPLODED VIEW
countersunk
D
‹" round-overs
2" strap hinge 28‹"
D
‡" ‹" round-over ¸" shank hole,
‹" round- 2¤" countersunk
‹" round-over
B overs
28‹" 25" Unpainted panel
‹-20 press-in F B E
threaded insert H
fi" dado 3"
#8 x 1‹" F.H. I ‹" deep
fi" rabbet B
wood screw ‹" deep F
eps G 28ˇ" F
‹" hole ‹-20 press-in
3" threaded insert H
28Å"
E ⁄ " hole
25 64
27fl" ‹" grooves
fl" deep
‹-20 x 1‹" R.H. ‹" deep
machine screw ‹" round-over ‹" from
18° bevel bottom edge
A
Centerline
‡" hole
‹" deep fi" spacer
SHOP TIP
Routing perfect-radius panel corners
When routing a rabbet for a back or panel in corners show, as on the panels (C) in into your table-mounted router. Set up the
an assembled case or frame, the rabbet bit this project, sanding doesn’t always give router table, as shown below left. The tall
leaves rounded corners. Instead of chiseling satisfactory results. For perfect corners, miter-gauge extension steadies the panel
the corners square, you can saw and sand measure the radius of the rabbet bit and and prevents chip-out. Then rout the
the back or panel corners round. When the chuck a matching-radius round-over bit panel corners as shown below.
Cutting Diagram
4fi" fl" fi" 4fi"
E R
1fi"
S 3"
F E
‡"
G T A
fi" dado ‡" slot ‹" deep on one part E ‹" hole fi" dado
U ‹" deep ‡ xE 7‹ x 96" Oak‹"
‡" hole ‹" deep on the other part deep
(5.3 bd. ft.)
H
27fl"
B B
V fi" rabbet ‹" deep
I E
A ‡ x 3fi x 60" Oak (1.7 bd.
B ft.)
W
J A Cutting Diagram ‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
X E F
K BB B
Y A D D
A
L ‡ x 3fi x 60" Oak
fi x(1.7
9‹bd. ft.) Oak (6.7 bd. ft.)
x 96"
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
ZD
M INSTALLING THE TRAYS A N B B
E
I
F
Insert the leg assembly between the trays, align the threaded ‡ x 3fi x 60" Oak (1.7 bd. ft.) ‡" diam. x 36" Hardwood dowel F
inserts with the end (E) holes, and drive the machine D D
B O screws. fi x 9‹ x 96" Oak (6.7 bd. ft.)
P E F G
From ‡"-diameter hardwoodAdowel, cut theC I F
N D D
rod (I) to length. D Q fi x 9‹ x 96" Oak (6.7 bd. ft.)
C
‡" diam. x 36" Hardwood dowel
B O
Apply finish and assemble
4
E R I
Rejoin the leg assemblies with the strap
A N P
2
S Using a clamp, press threaded inserts rails (B) and then down under the upper and C H H
F H U X
G
into the ⁄64" holes in the outside edges ofK lower cleats (D). With a drawing complete,
25
‹ x 48 x 48" Melamine-faced fiberboard
T V Y
the legs (A), where shown on IDrawing 2. separate
FILENAME:165Easel3.eps it from the roll, as shown in Photos
C
3
Date:on4-05 L
H U Clamp the cleats (D) into Jplace W J.the leg Z and F. Now fill the trays with a supply of
E
Lorna H H
V assembly with the unpaintedXpanel (C),
M paint, crayons, and chalk, and watch your
I where shown on Drawing 2. Using the shank budding artist bloom. ¿
K ‹ x 48 x 48" Melamine-faced fiberboard
J Y the legs
Wholes as guides, drill pilot holes into
L H H
X(A). Remove the clamps, insert flat Z washers Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund
K M
between the cleats and legs, and screw the Project design: Kevin ‹ Boyle Materials List
x 48 x 48" Melamine-faced fiberboard
Y FINISHED SIZE
L cleats into place. Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
Leg assemblies T W L Matl. Qty.
Z A legs ‡" 2" 44" O 4
M CHANGING THE PAPER STARTING A FRESH SHEET
B rails ‡" 2" 28‹" O 4
Top cleat C panels ‹" 22" 25" MF 2
D cleats fi" 1" 28‹" O 2
Tray assembly
woodmagazine.com 89
10 keys to successfully building
WOOD projects ®
2. True up your stock. 3. Get the best out 4. Rip slightly overwidth.
of the grain.
Stop
Workpiece
8. Dry-fit before gluing. 9. Glue with care. 10. Give the glue time.
woodmagazine.com 91
wise buys
our editors test Why buy?
detail
The best tools make difficult tasks easier, and detail sanders certainly fit that description. The flat,
pointed tips of these sanders help you power-sand into corners and narrow gaps beyond the reach of
a random-orbit or finish sander. Hook-and-loop abrasives make replacing them simple. And you’ll find
sanders
the results from a detail sander far more consistent (and less painful) than the “finger wrapped in sand-
paper” method. As a group, these sanders vibrate less than a random-orbit or finish sander and prove
surprisingly aggressive. (Don’t confuse these flat-sanding tools with powered “profile sanders” that use
interchangeable abrasive-wrapped tips for smoothing contoured profiles, such as molding.)
take-anywhere
hardware
bins
Carry these simply made containers
to your work area; return them to the
holder when you’re done.
I
n issue 164 we shared with you the further organize your shop with these width— 2fi" or 4". Cutting your pieces in
wall-hung tape dispensers shown handy hardware bins. multiples, build as many bins as you like.
below that dismount to go where you Start by determining how many bins (See the WOOD Patterns® insert for full-
need them. Now, using that same concept, you’ll need in your shop and what size patterns of the bin front and lid hinge.
EXPLODED VIEW
¸" shank hole,
#8 x 1" F.H. countersunk on back side
wood screw #6 x fi" F.H. wood screw
fi" 9⁄64"
shank hole,
countersunk
‹"
„" narrower
24" then front
‹" clear acrylic 7‹"
Location of
Location of bottom front
fl" WALL MOUNT
7"
We cut the lid hinges „" less in length than mounting holes and secure the acrylic end of the bin while inserting the top edge
the interior openings. We glued and screwed covers to the rabbeted pivots. of the back into the rabbeted cleat of the
the hardboard sides to the solid-stock fronts Build the wall mount(s) as dimensioned. wall mount where shown above. The design
and backs.) Using a sharp 40-tooth Attach them in place using fasteners lets you remove hardware from the wall-
combination or triple-chip carbide blade, cut appropriate to your shop wall. To hang a bin mounted bins in place or remove a bin from
the acrylic covers to size. Drill countersunk from the wall mount, simply lift the front the mount and move it to your work area. ¿
Project design: Jeff Mertz
woodmagazine.com 95
quick and easy jig
straight-tracking
crosscut
sled
For cutting long or wide stock on
your tablesaw, this simple jig is like
having another pair of hands.
W
‡"
CROSSCUT SLED 24"
ith a long, wide base securely 2"
anchored to a 20"-long miter- FENCE
gauge slot guide bar, this Location of
crosscut sled provides a lot more workpiece temporary
support than a standard miter gauge. And pivot screw 14"
#8 x fl" F.H. BASE
A N it’s so inexpensive and easy to build that wood screw
every tablesaw should have one. Here’s how Edge trimmed 17fl"
B O to make yours. to fit your saw
¸" shank hole, after assembly fi"
C P Start with the guide bar. To make it, joint countersunk on
one edge of a ‡"-thick board 24" long, and bottom face ¸" shank hole,
D Q then rip a Å"-wide strip from it. (We used countersunk
6" ¤"
E R maple.) Adjusting your planer to just shave #8 x 1fi" F.H. ‡" dado
¤" deep
the surface, reduce the Å" width in wood screw
S fi"
F multiple passes until the piece slides in your
G T tablesaw miter-gauge slot without play. Now ›" ‹"
rotate the piece 90° and plane the original ‡"
U GUIDE BAR
H ‡" thickness to ›". Trim the guide bar to ¤"
⁄ " pilot hole ‹" deep
7 64 fi"
V 20" long, and sand tapers on the front end,
I
where shown on the drawing at right. Tapered tip
J W From fi" plywood or medium-density
X fiberboard, cut the 14×24" base. With a fi" the guide bar fits tightly into it. With the
K GUIDE BAR TIP DETAIL
Y dado blade, cut a ¤"-deep dado in the base, back end of the guide bar and base flush,
L 6" from one end. Then moving the rip fence drill countersunk screw holes and fasten the
Z in small increments, widen the dado until guide bar into place. continued on page 98
M
THREE STEPS TO PERFECT 90˚ CROSSCUTS
Pivot screw
Fence Fence
Better Homes and Gardens® WOOD® magazine (ISSN-0743-894X) is published seven times a year in February/March, April/May, June/July, September, October, November, and December/January by Meredith Corporation, 1716 Locust St., Des Moines, IA 50309-3023. For subscription questions call 800/374-9663. Outside the U.S.,
call 515/247-2981. Periodicals postage paid at Des Moines, Iowa, and additional mailing offices. Better Homes and Gardens trademark registered in Canada and Australia. Marca Registrada en México. One-year subscription prices: U.S. and its possessions, $28; Canada, $41; other countries, $49. Canada Post Publications Mail
Sales Product Agreement No. 40069223. Canadian BN 12348 2887 RT. CANADIAN RETURN ADDRESS: Better Homes and Gardens WOOD magazine, 2744 Edna Street, Windsor, Ontario, N8Y 1V2. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Better Homes and Gardens WOOD magazine, P.O. Box 37439, Boone, IA 50037-0439.
A sneak peek at some of the articles in the November issue (on sale October 11)
Turned ornament
The tiny tree within this
mini-lathe-compatible project
sparkles in the holiday glow.
Scrapbook/photo
album jacket
Laminate wood scraps into Shop cart
an attractive binder for your A sheet of plywood is all you’ll
favorite family mementos need to build this mobile helper. It
and photographs. doubles as a tool stand.