WaveLength

COAST&KAYAK
Magazine
The magazine of adventure and recreation on the water

Volume 21, Issue 2

Summer 2011
Celebrating
FREE at select outlets and
online or by subscription

the Gulf Islands

New marine trail puts
serene archipelago
in the spotlight

Free kayak inside

Complete plans AND materials
inside every issue. Really!
PM 41687515

Or win one instead

You can win this kevlar Atlantis
Titan VI. Details inside and online.
There’s more online in our multimedia edition: www.coastandkayak.com
 WEEKLY AND SPECIAL
EVENTS THIS SUMMER
• Every Wednesday, Women on Water
Women only evening paddle with discounted rentals
• May 15, 2011, Tour De Indian Arm Kayak and SUP Race
Come join in fun and test your skills
• June 25, 2011, Stand Up Paddle Board Demo Day
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Rentals • Lessons • Programs • Courses • Events

2 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011

 Contents

This issue’s features: 48

6 Cottonwoods and canyons
A journey down the Upper Missouri
6

12 Islands of serenity
Touring the new Gulf Islands trail

16 Leg one: Saanich and Sidney Regular items:

34 Tours and Services
30
20 Leg two: The South Islands
38 Gear and kayaks
24 Leg three: Saltspring 48 Skillset
by Alex Matthews
28 Leg four: The North Islands 50 Starting Out
40 with Gary Doran
40 Build a faux cedar kayak
Materials and plans included! 51 Instruction/Education
52 Fishing Angles
44 How close is too close? by Dan Armitage
Setting seabird viewing guidelines

SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 3

 The First Word by John Kimantas

How ‘stuff’ can really drag us down

I went through a change in situation about 15 years ago (personal, professional and
Summer 2011 Volume 21, Number 2 financial – which is just about everything) and rather than lament I decided to look at
 PM No. 41687515
it as an opportunity. I drew up a list of what I thought was important to use as a guide
Editor John Kimantas for re-establishing my new life. After some consideration the list ended with just three
things on it (not in any particular order): my health, the people I love and Vancouver
Advertising Sales Brent Daniel
Island. Perhaps oddly, neither my career (journalism) nor money were on the list. I
Copy Editing Darrell Bellaart decided that the things I valued most didn’t particularly need
sums of money. Just the opportunity, which ironically can get lost
in the pursuit of stuff (as had happened before).
Cover Photo:
Fiddlers Cove on Saltspring Just this spring I decided to re-evaluate my list. It still holds
Island presents some great true, though I look at things a bit more broadly now. Health is
examples of fretted sandstone. still a top priority, as so much of what I love requires the ability
It’s on the new Gulf Islands
Marine Trails Network, with to move freely. I have a lot to pack into the next four decades or
special coverage beginning this so, so I have to be in good running order to make the most of it.
issue starting page 12.
Vancouver Island is still on the list as well. I still wouldn’t
want to live anywhere else, but my scope of world influence is
coast&kayak mAGAZINE is an independent magazine a bit more prevalent now. So there’s a fourth item on my list: world travel. Vancouver
available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling Island is still dear to me, though, and I reflect that by being an advocate for preserving
shops, outdoor stores, paddling clubs, marinas, events, etc.),
and globally on the web. Also available by paid subscription. what should be preserved; for instance, fighting invasive economic exploitation that
Articles, photos, events, news are all welcome. threatens the island’s very nature. You can even include all the British Columbia coast
in that point. My viewpoint: enjoy it naturally, plus fight to ensure others in future
Find back issues, articles, events, writers guidelines and
advertising information online at coastandkayak.com generations will be able to do the same.
Back on my list is my career, which is now this magazine and my writing. I’ve
subscribe decided that I am my work, my work is me. They say do what you love and the money
$20 for 1 year – 4 issues will come. Well, I say do what you love, period. Don’t let money stand in the way.
$35 for 2 years – 8 issues Imagine a world where the great artist and writers decided they couldn’t create because
they had to pay rent. What a tragedy that would be.
While Coast&Kayak Magazine is made available
free, subscriptions ensure the magazine is delivered A newly re-emphasized element on my list is minimalism, almost lost amid a cycle
to your home and that you will never miss an issue. of settling down. I am finding the less clutter in life, the more freedom to do things
To subscribe, visit
www.coastandkayak.com/Subscribe.html
that I truly value. I wonder how many people will go out of this world thinking, “if
or call 1-866-984-6437. only my lawn had been a bit greener” or “if I had only worked late more nights at the
office.” More likely it will be, “Why didn’t I write that book?” or “Why did I never take
that trip to Venice?”
Advertising rates and submission guidelines What will you find you’ve missed if the time came today? Best to answer the
available at www.coastandkayak.com
question now, when you can do something about it. You won’t get the chance later!
ISSUE AD DEADLINE DISTRIBUTION Me, I’m working on one new concept that better melds all the aspects I value in life:
Fall 2011 July 4 Aug. 1 a ‘virtual office’ for Coast&Kayak Magazine so we can operate free of physical clutter
Winter 2011 Sept. 30 Nov. 1 from anywhere. It’s tougher than it sounds – few businesses have more clutter than
Spring 2012 Jan. 30 March 1 the publishing industry – but we’ll get there. I’d love to have you drop by the office
Summer 2012 April 6 May 14 to discuss it, but, well, we may be a bit hard to find. You might want to check out the

A product of: beach. I just might be working from there today.

- John Kimantas
Wild Coast Publishing
PO Box 24, Stn A
Nanaimo, B.C., Canada, V9R 5K4
Ph: 1-866-984-6437 • Fax: 1-866-654-1937
Email: kayak@coastandkayak.com It was a cold spring for us here on
Website: www.coastandkayak.com
Vancouver Island... Kayaking photos to
© 2010. Copyright is retained on all material (text, photos and graphics) in this magazine. follow in this space once we thaw out.
No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form, print or electronic, for any purpose,
except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing.

Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with

the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2010, courtesy
of the Atlas of Canada. Also, our thanks to Geobase for some
elements that may appear on Coast&Kayak maps.

Coast&Kayak Magazine is dedicated to making self-propelled

coastal exploration fun and accessible. Safety and travel
information is provided to augment pre-existing safety and
knowledge. A safety course and proper equipment are advised
before any exploration on water. See a list of paddling instruction
locations at www.coastandkayak.com

4 COAST&KAYAK Magazine Summer

SUMMER2011
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SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 5

 Destinations
Cottonwoods
T
he familiar flat prairie slides by hour after hour
as I drive until the vegetation speaks of a hotter, drier
place. Sage brush dots the rangeland more profusely,
its bluish- green hue a testimony to the area’s aridity.
Eventually the Bear Paw Mountains appear, perched on the
end of the earth far to the south, their peaks brushing the
clouds.
The town of Havre appears over a rise in the sandstone
studded hills – a mix of old west holdouts and sterile modern
franchises of aluminium and glass. I drive down to Coal Banks
Landing, a United States Forest Service campsite and boat
launch, and a popular access point to the White Cliffs section
of the Upper Missouri River. My fellow paddlers have already
arrived and are organizing their gear. Behind them the
Missouri River has worn a gouge into the landscape.
Jim Romo, an ecology professor, was my supervisor
when I was in graduate school, and is now an old friend.
6 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011
by Michel Tremblay / photos by Jim Romo
Uncompromising in thought and action, he is a plain
speaking product of the northern prairies. His face is lined
from a lifetime of being outdoors. Dave is a long-time friend
of Jim’s, and works for the Bureau of Land Management in
Idaho. Fiftyish and lean of frame, he shakes my hand with a
healthy grip, and sizes me up with a narrowed gaze. Dave’s
lanky 17-year-old son Alex looks on, uneasy about a strange
adult being thrown into the mix.
The grey dawn brightens the edge of the horizon as I
stir from a mild and restless sleep on hard ground that’s
unwelcome for my middle-aged hip. The low clouds march
across the sky, herded by a strong northwest wind. We linger
over breakfast, hoping that somehow procrastination will
change the weather. We marshal the gear, which amounts
to a surprising heap, considering the efforts made to pare
down to the necessities. The vessels set off, Jim pensive and
unsure in the unfamiliar kayak. By the end of the day, he has
 Montana

Background: A panoramic
view of the upper Missouri
River. Below: A climb to
the ‘Hole in the Wall’ in the
White Cliffs section of the
Upper Missouri.

& canyons
it mastered, and paddles effortlessly down the Missouri.
The river is flanked by a high and broad floodplain that
narrows as we progress. Cliffs rise ever higher on either
side. We are entering the famous ‘White Cliffs’ section of the
Upper Missouri. The exposed sandstone is shaped by time
and erosion. The low foothills to the south of the Bear Paw
Mountains provide a buttress to the view. A large block of
sandstone is perched atop the edge of a ridge, looking like a
derelict medieval castle.
The murky Missouri is high and fast, draining copious late
spring rains from its enormous watershed on its long march
to the Mississippi. Our 30-km / 50-mile trip is part of the path
of the famed 1805-1806 Lewis and Clarke expedition, an effort
by the United States government to more closely examine
the recently acquired Louisiana Purchase, and to exert a U.S.
presence over the largely unexplored territory.
u

SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 7

 Destinations
Kayak Repair & Refit
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8 COAST&KAYAK Magazine
The rain comes down and I hunker
down in my kayak, laden down with gear
and closed in by a sprayskirt. With rain
gear on I am dry, and the miles roll by. The
current is deceptively fast, and crossing
the river takes considerable effort. Dave
and Alex paddle a battered Grumman
canoe carrying much of the gear, and
suffer the most from the cold and wet. At
Eagle Creek we stop to make coffee and
warm up. The feeble heat from the fire of
rotten cottonwood makes little headway at
removing the cold.
The prominent black rock perched on
the edge of the water is called the Citadel.
The dark volcanic rock is a product of
geologic events that occurred eons ago – a
fact that heightens the sense of isolation
in this unfamiliar landscape. I slow down
and fall behind, savoring the visual delight,
a welcome visual diversity compared to the
flat prairie of home.
Two views of the striking White Cliffs of the
The rhythm of the river becomes more
Upper Missouri River, the result of erosion evident. The packing of our camp becomes
on light-colored eagle sandstone. more nonchalant and quicker. Downriver,
the Hole in the Wall is visible rising from the
My Arctic Tern 14 is the
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of eleven boats I own.
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edge of the river at the terminus of an angle
of debris and a ragged finger of sandstone.
We hike up the worn footpath, curiosity
and childlike wonder drawing us up the
increasingly steep trail studded with Spanish
bayonet, miner’s lamp and scarlet globe
mallow. Soon we are scrambling up creases
in the sandstone. The summit reveals a
hidden canyon, the vista exhibiting the many
geologic features of the Missouri all at once.
On the river I find a message in a
bottle and take it to open at home. Jim
and I talk about work, family, fishing and
other topics at a depth not done before.
Old tumbledown farms appear on some
of the flats along the river, relics of the
ill attempts at farming the small parcels
perched along the river. The unwillingness
of the landscape to yield to the imposition
of a different order resulted in the failure
of nearly all.
Slaughter River campsite looms and
we stop mid-afternoon. I walk up into the
hills and discover an old horse-drawn hay
mower reclaimed by the gnarled blue sage.
I dodge cactus and step carefully, wary of
rattlesnakes. On a ridge I find an old mule
Montana
deer sign, and in my head plan an ambush
along the game trail that winds up into the
breaks. To a deer hunter, old habits die
hard. At camp, the cottonwood trees serve
as a refuge and home for birds from miles
around. Eagles, ospreys, pelicans, orioles
and other birds use the groves, and the
chatter and squawking provide a lively and
pleasant background to the afternoon.
We load up camp and push out into
the current. The valley broadens out, with
high badlands perched far back off the
river. We pass Slaughter River, so named by
Lewis and Clark for the numerous rotting
bison carcasses observed there as they
struggled upstream in the summer of 1805.
Eventually The Judith River appears to
the south. I paddle up the Judith as group
of suspicious pelicans watch me from a
guano-covered cottonwood snag lodged in
the confluence of the rivers. I pass through
a channel where I see a beaver, a mule deer
and a wood duck with her brood. She is
not pleased about my intrusion, and tries
to draw me away from her offspring by
feigning injury.
u
SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 9
 Destinations

The takeout point comes into view, and

BC Alberta Saskatchewan
disappointment sets in. As darkness falls, we
sit around the campfire, Alex long asleep, Coal Banks Landing
Shelby Havre 2 Malta
bored of the talk of middle-aged men. We Whitefish
Bearpaw
stay up late, relating stories of other treks. 75 Ft. Benson Mountains Fort Peck
Of close brushes with grizzlies while hiking 87
Great Falls Missouri R
in Montana, elk hunting in Idaho, and .
Missoula Judith Landing
moose hunting in northern Saskatchewan.
The stars grow brighter and the light of Montana
the fire plays on the lines on the faces of
men who have spent years seeking out Butte
Billings
wilderness. The next day we part company
with renewed and new friendships, and
Idaho
a vow to paddle the next 50 miles of the
Missouri, through the badlands, next year. Wyoming
<
A native of Saskatchewan, Michel
Tremblay has spent a lifetime outdoors
hunting, camping, fishing and paddling and
holds a Master’s Degree in ecology from the
University of Saskatchewan.
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10 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011


Two reasons
to visit Vancouver Island North this summer
Background photo is White Cliff Islets in
Broughton Archipelago Provincial Park /
John Kimantas photo. Inset photo is the Alert
Bay 360 in 2010 / Robin Thacker photo.
Alert Bay Lodge
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- Grizzly, whale tours & private charters
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Broughton Archipelago
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Welcome to a wilderness mecca for outdoor
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SUMMER 2011
Feature destination
1. Broughton
Archipelago
The Broughtons are a veritable
maze of islands, islets and reefs
northeast of Port McNeill that offer
world-class kayaking and killer
whale viewing in the protection of
Broughton Island Marine Provincial
Park. Camp at quiet sites with marine
access only, or bunk in at a remote
floating lodge . Enjoy wilderness at
its best while taking advantage of the
array of accommodations, dining and
transportation services designed to
make your visit unforgettable.
To plan your trip, visit www.
vancouverislandnorth.ca
2. Alert Bay 360
Now in its third year, the Alert Bay
360 offers the best mix of competition,
camaraderie and culture. The race
for all levels of interest takes place
around Cormorant Island July 31, and
offers thousands of dollars in prizes
as well as a Big House celebration,
a seafood buffet and First Nations
cultural dance performances. Get there
early and enjoy the pre-race comforts
of waterfront lodging in Alert Bay. Or
visit anytime to discover the wonder
of orcas in Johnstone Strait, the masks
of the U’Mista Cultural Centre and the
welcoming atmosphere of communities
like Alert Bay and Port McNeill.
For details and to register, visit
www.alertbay360.ca
COAST&KAYAK Magazine 11
 The BC Marine Trail by John Kimantas

Official status to routes through Vancouver Island’s Gulf Islands will

ensure passage for future generations through some of the most idyllic
kayaking locations imaginable. It is a route truly composed of

Ä
Nanaimo 8
8
Gabriola I. 8

8
Cedar Ä 8
Ä 8
Valdes I.

Thetis I.
8
8
Ladysmith Ä
Penelakut 8 8
(Kuper) I. 8
8 Galiano I.
Chemainus Ä
8

Crofton Ä
8
8
8 Mayne I.
Maple Bay Ä Saltspring I. Prevost I.
8
8 Primary site 8 Saturna I.
8 Pender Is. 8
8 Alternative site 8
8 Proposed site 8
8 8
Ä Access site Cowichan Bay Ä
8 8 Portland I.
Ä Proposed access site
Ä Coast&Kayak access site*
8 Coast&Kayak campsite*
* These sites are presented as a courtesy 8 Rum I.
by Coast&Kayak for trip planning but Sidney Ä
Mill Bay Ä
are not a part of the BC Marine Trails 8 Sidney I.
Network Association’s inventory or
otherwise currently linked to the marine
trail. Bamberton 8 Ä
Victoria 8 D’Arcy I. San Juan Is.
Ä (U.S.)
8
12 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011

L
ike many other kayakers, I got my feet wet by learning
to paddle in the Gulf Islands. The wild west coast of
Vancouver Island was simply too tempestuous to
consider in those early days, so I was happy to explore the
relatively calm and sheltered southeast coast of Vancouver
Island and the myriad of nearby islands.
Here the interplay of water and land is at its finest. Nestled
between the mountains of Vancouver Island and the more
open waters of the Strait of Georgia, the Gulf Islands claim
Canada’s most Mediterranean and therefore best climate
– that is, mild conditions year-round and considerably less
rainfall than many nearby urban centers such as Vancouver.
The difference is so striking it’s not unusual to paddle here in
sunshine while clouds linger over both Vancouver Island and
the mainland BC mountains.
Protected by a virtual land bridge, the inner waters of
the Gulf Islands can be highly protected, getting none of
the ocean swell and considerably less of the wind that can
The Gulf Islands
embattle other passages in the area such as Haro and Juan de
Fuca straits.
Not that it is all placid all the time. Hardly. The long
passages create strong currents that in turn create some of
the strongest tidal rapids on the coast, such as Dodd Narrows,
Porlier Passage and Active Pass. Cross any of these during
peak periods at your peril. Or enjoy as part of a paddler’s
adventure, or cross at slack current. There’s no need to take
risks here if you’re not in the mind to. Simply pick the type
of adventure right for you – from placid day trips in coves to
explore the intertidal life, to energetic day trips with picnics
on a nearby (or distant) island, to multi-day adventures
through largely unpopulated wilderness settings.
That the Gulf Islands should compose an inaugural section
of the future BC Marine Trail is fitting – and altogether
overdue, considering the strains on this fragile island
network and its elaborately unique but shrinking ecosystem.
u
Water takes on a
tropical hue in the
collection of islets
off Prevost Island.
Photo by Dan Millsip
SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 13
 The BC Marine Trail

The biggest problem facing the

Gulf Islands is the fact that it has been
discovered. Once a refuge for hippies,
artisans and just a few others, it is now an
elite location to live, valued for its idyllic
temperatures (by Canadian standards), low
rainfall, beautiful scenery and the odd but
somehow desirable island lifestyle. Where
once were empty properties or perhaps just
a cabin there is now just as likely to be elite
estates dotting the waterfront.
Recreational traffic is also on the rise,
with more boaters, campers, hikers, day
trippers and local traffic than ever.

Dan Millsip photo

The competition for space has meant
an increased emphasis on conservation,
highlighted by the creation of the Gulf
Islands National Park in 2005. The park
added a considerable amount of newly
protected land, particularly on Saturna
Island and the Penders, but reached the
minimum land required to become a
national park only by absorbing existing
provincial parks in the south Gulf Islands –
an indication of the restraints on land here.
With that background and a mission to
create a province-wide marine trail, the BC
Marine Trails Network Association began
the challenge of piecing together routes
to link the various existing components of
kayaking resources while hopefully finding a
few new ones.
It wasn’t easy. An earlier attempt to
create a BC marine trail in the mid 1990s
had one success – the creation of a
campsite at Blackberry Point on Valdes
BC Marine Trails Network Association director Mick Allen paddles late in the day near Prevost
Island. Parks Canada has played a critical role in the development of the marine trail by
including national park sites like those on Prevost Island in the official marine trail inventory.
Island. Negotiated through a lease with the There friends and supporters of the trail
forestry company land owners, the lease has will converge en masse in canoes and kayaks
long since expired, along with the original to Transfer Beach for the official ribbon
marine trail group that created it. The cutting (see page 31 for details).
current land owners have not renewed the It may well become the single largest
lease, and the property now sits in limbo – a paddling event in the history of the
source of consternation for BC’s kayakers. province. For organizers it’s a relief to
So it should be no surprise that finally see the official status unfold.
substantial holes exist in the inaugural Gulf “It’s really starting, it is really beginning
Islands marine trail inventory, with major with this grand opening,” says Stephanie
gaps particularly around Mayne and Galiano Meinke, the president of the BCMTNA.
islands. “We’re going to have sites, we’re going to be
Even so, it’s a start, to be made official on the map, we’re going to be visible. And
at the trail’s grand opening in Ladysmith at from there I think the initiative will increase
the Vancouver Island Paddlefest on May 14. in speed.”

14 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011

 The Gulf Islands

While only the Gulf Islands Marine

Trails Network and the West Coast
Vancouver Island North section (see the
NEW
Spring 2011 Coast&Kayak) will get the THREE
official nod at the grand opening, two other SIZES
key trail sections aren’t far behind: the
route north from the Gulf Islands through
TWO CHOICES
the Discovery Islands to Port Hardy, and
OF MATERIAL
the West Coast Vancouver Island South
section from Tofino to Victoria. Together POLYETHYLENE COMPOSITE

all four trails will compose a loop around

Vancouver Island.
While officially ready to launch, the Gulf
Islands Marine Trails Network certainly has
a long way to go. Most sites that are part
of the official announcement pre-exist,
meaning few breakthroughs out of the gate,
though one new site on Vancouver Island
near Crofton bodes well for municipal
participation in Cowichan Valley.
And even if limited, what exists now is
being viewed as a huge victory, and the start
of more progress to follow.
“Now they’re secured,” says Stephanie.
“We know that no other competitive
interest will take them. There will always be
a place for the public.”

photo: B. Lemeunier

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Please contact your BORÉALDESIGN dealer for more information.
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SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 15

 The BC Marine Trail

R
uins of A lepers colony, a smugglers’ haven, an
old explosives factory and even a bomb shelter bunker
– there’s a lot of history hidden in the little group of
islands off the east side of Saanich Peninsula.
If you’re not familiar with the peninsula, picture that it
juts northward from Victoria to bisect southeast Vancouver
Island, creating an ideal countryside environment for
numerous semi-rural communities, where farms tend to
outnumber housing developments. To the west of the
peninsula is Saanich Inlet, a twisting stretch of water
bounded by mountains that make it Vancouver Island’s only
east coast fjord, famous for its deep, still waters home to
unusual sponges. Spectacular viewpoints of the inlet are the
reward at vantage points on the nearby peaks.
The west side of the peninsula is bordered by a web of
islands just a hop and skip across Haro Strait to the San Juan
Islands in the U.S. The islands here are the destination for
many a beginner kayaker’s first overnight trip. It can also
serve as the ideal place to stoke a life-long love affair with
the Gulf Islands. It is, after all, an ideal kayaking destination.
Distances are short, the scenery is varied, wildlife abundant,
campsites numerous and despite the close proximity,
civilization seems to melt away. Quick connections by ferry
from both the B.C. mainland and Washington State make
launching into these islands ideal as either short paddles and
day trips or the jumping point into the myriad of the larger
Gulf Islands nearby.
The creation of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in
2005 changed the landscape here, with D’Arcy Island, Sidney
Spit, Rum Island and Portland Island trading hands from
provincial parks to the federal reserve. Going with them
were many of the Crown islets that dot the area. The national
park quickly banned public access to these islets to help
protect the sensitive environment. While commendable, it
did remove several key unofficial paddling campsites from
the region. Once all fair game for visits, only one islet in this
cluster remains accessible for picnics and short stays by
kayakers – Dock Island.

Prevost I.
Saltspring I. 8 Arbutus Pt. A kayaker takes
Portland I. To South Pender I.
a break at Shell
Shell Beach 8 Beach on Prevost
8 Princess Bay Moresby I.
To Cowichan Bay Island. Formerly a
provincial park, it
Satellite Channel Piers I. was a gift to Princess
Ecological Reserve
Margaret, who
Swartz Bay Ä returned it to British
Coal I. Columbia for a park
Saanich Peninsula to mark Canada’s
Dock I. centennial year.
Photo by Shannon
Rum I. 8 Parker.

Saanich Inlet Sidney

Victoria Ä
Ä Mill Bay Airport
Sidney Spit 8 Mandarte I.

Cy Hampson
Park Ä

Sidney I.
8 James I.
Ä
Bamberton
Provincial
Park

Ä Brentwood Bay Island View D’Arcy I. 8

Regional Park Ä
h 8
e ac
ll yR
ua
Sq
Fin

Discovery I.
lays

Gowlland Tod Marine Park

Provincial Park
o

and Victoria
nA
rm

16 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011

Goldstream
Provincial Park

Leg one:
Saanich & Sidney
Unfortunately, many of the other islands outside the
national park reserve are private. Some, like Piers Island, are
subdivided into postage stamp-sized properties that are
hemmed in with homes – the worst fate for any Gulf Island.
Other islands are exclusive retreats for the very rich, such as
James Island, owned by Seattle cell phone billionaire Craig
McCaw and topped with its own Jack Nicklaus-designed golf
course. Fortunately due to Canadian law, intertidal areas are
public domain, meaning James Island’s sandy beaches can
still be enjoyed by everyone – up to the high tide line only, of
course.
Better yet, many of the most notable features of these
islands are protected within the Gulf Islands National Park
reserve. Remains of an old lepers colony can be found along
The Gulf Islands
u
a trail on D’Arcy Island. Sidney Spit is home to a wonderful
sand spit and intertidal eelgrass bed invariably populated by
cranes feeding in the shallows. And an old bomb shelter sits
in the field on Sidney Island near Sidney Spit.
Add a good chance of seeing killer whales, plus the
inevitable bald eagles, seals, sea lions and otters, and you
have the makings for a grand wildlife outing while barely
leaving your launch site.
Launch sites, however, can pose a quandary as accesses
are infrequent and generally guarded against overnight
parking. Enter the BC Marine Trail Network Association,
which is negotiating with communities along the trail route
to gain suitable access without running the risk of being
towed. u
SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 17
 The BC Marine Trail
u Trail guide preview: Saanich and Sidney
This area is a prime location for
beginners who want worry-free paddling
destinations with overnight options.
Chances of seeing a pod of killer whales
are also exceptionally high here. A
good logistical base camp is McDonald
Campground near Sidney. It is part of the
national park created as a convenient center
for exploring the park’s various locales.
Access Points: Sidney is the key
community for starting out in this region,
but while beach access points are numerous,
parking restrictions can make overnight
parking a headache. Expect the possibility of
unloading at one location then parking and
walking back – at least until the marine trail’s
parking details are worked out. Tulista Park
just south of the ferry terminal is a good
option, as is Cy Hampson Park, a waterfront
park just south of Sidney. Island View Beach
Regional Park is a great launch location for
points to the south, but overnight parking is
currently restricted.
Destinations:
D’Arcy Island. This former provincial
park, now part of the national park, has a
beach and campsite on the northeast side
facing Little D’Arcy (a private island). Trails
circle the island and lead to the ruins of a
lepers colony on the west side. The colony
is one of the darker aspects of Vancouver
18 COAST&KAYAK Magazine
David Thompson photo
Kayaking past the landmark sand cliffs of
James Island.
Island’s history, as residents were secreted
here from 1890 to 1924 against their will and
essentially left as outcasts to survive as best
they could. The crossing is as little as 8 km /
5 miles from Island View Beach, or about 12
km / 7 miles if connecting to Sidney Spit.
Sidney Spit. Another former provincial
park, this national park property is unique
in that it is serviced by a foot passenger
ferry during the summer, which allows
for walk-in camping and hiking. Camping
spots have moved twice in recent years,
the last move away from the waterfront.
The key attraction is an expansive sandy
spit that extends almost 2 km (over a mile)
at low tide. The lagoon created by the spit
is ecologically exceptional, with great blue
heron the most obvious resident. The
island was once home to a brick factory
SUMMER 2011
(which will explain the considerable debris).
Examine the field behind the campsite to
locate the World War Two bomb shelter,
built because an explosives plant on James
Island was considered a target. Sidney
Spit is about a 5 km / 3 mile paddle from
downtown Sidney, or about 9 km / 5.5
miles from a connection with Rum Island.
Rum Island. This island came by
its name honestly as a haven for rum
runners during the U.S. prohibition. It was
bequeathed as a provincial park by its last
owner, then transferred to the national
park. Camping is on a bluff on the island’s
south side. Landing is on a tombolo that
joins Rum with neighboring Gooch Island,
a private island. A trail circles Rum Island.
It is about 10 km / 6 miles across simple
water from downtown Sidney, and about 11
km / 7 miles to Portland Island.
Portland Island: This is a key kayaking
destination, with prime camping at Shell
Beach on the south and Arbutus Point to
the north. A less used option is at Princess
Bay. Trails circle the island. If exploring
by water, intertidal life at lower tides is
exceptional. It is about 5 km / 3 miles from
the government dock at Swartz Bay next
to the ferry terminal or 8 km / 5 miles
from Sidney. Water here can be challenging
crossing Shute Passage, plus ferries are fast
and frequent. From here Bedwell Harbour
on South Pender is about 12 km while
James Bay on Prevost Island is 15 km / 9.5
miles. Portland Island can also be reached
from Fulford Harbour on Saltspring, a
paddle of about 8 km / 5 miles.
Saanich Inlet: Running the length of
this inlet would entail 24 km / 15 miles
one way from Moses Point on down, but
really only the lower portion is exceptional
for its scenery, making Brentwood Bay an
ideal launch location. Because there are
no campsites, day trips are really the only
option (Bamberton Provincial Park is on
the water but not well suited for kayakers).
Goldstream Provincial Park protects the
south end of the inlet (camping is an
off-water option there too). Access to
the Goldstream River estuary is restricted
to protect the abundant bird life, which
includes numerous bald eagles, especially
during salmon runs.
 The Gulf Islands

vpo.ca
SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 19
 Whaler Bay Ä
Galiano I.
The BC Marine Trail
Bluff Park
David Cove Ä

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Ä Miners Bay
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y Bennett Bay Ä of
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Ä Saturna Beach
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8 (Saltspring I.) Monarch Head
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20 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011


Leg two:
T
here is no doubt the Gulf Islands straddle two
worlds. The rugged wilderness and unspoiled vistas
that define the islands are definitely at odds with those
places tamed for residential use. The outer islands share the
best and worst of both. If you are looking for untrammeled
shoreline and mountainous scenery, Saturna Island is the
beacon, made brighter with the inclusion of much of the
island into the Gulf Islands National Park reserve.
Counter that with Magic Island Estates, a suburban-style
housing development that was pushed through in the 1970s
that gave rise to the sudden realization that development
restrictions in the islands were non-existent. Steps have since
been taken to minimize development on what is left, but the
Pender Islands and Mayne Island share a similar fate that the
vast majority of these islands are private property. On this
beauty, access and ecological sensitivity hath no bearing.
Changing the landscape for the better is the national park,
which has snapped up numerous properties on the Penders
since its creation in 2005. While camping for kayakers on the
Penders is currently limited to Beaumont Park in Bedwell
Harbour, a new and highly strategic site has been added
at Narvaez Bay on Saturna. A closed road provides hiking
access to Narvaez Bay, while unofficial trails skirt the top and
shoreline below Brown Ridge, a distinctive and aptly named
mountain bluff that serves as prime raptor habitat.
The Narvaez Bay campsite helps fill a needed hole in a
The Gulf Islands
route of the area, but a site remains elusive in the proximity of
Mayne Island. Marine trail organizers are hoping commercial
operators can fill the gap until a new location is secured.
Coupled with that is the unanswered problem of launching
from the islands. The BCMTNA’s focus to date has been
on access points from Vancouver Island. While there are
numerous island beach accesses, they are invariably meant
for local day use. Parking restrictions are usually prohibitive,
particularly around the few boat launches.
While the larger islands provide protection from the more
open waters of the Strait of Georgia, don’t be fooled into
complacency here. While potentially idyllic, currents can run
extremely high and become dangerous in passes such as Boat
Passage and East Point off Saturna, Active Pass and Georgeson
Passage off Mayne Island. Many a kayaker has had to sit at
Winter Cove to await slack current in Boat Passage.
Highlights are numerous, with explorations of Saturna
Island’s south coast among the best anywhere for its cliffs,
sand beaches, unusual rock formations and mountainous
backdrop. Bedwell Harbour offers much the same in a
smaller scale with a more developed setting of housing,
moorage and marinas, while Mayne Island is best probably
as a starting point only: it has little to offer in the way of
wilderness. The exceptions are Georgina Point, Deacon Hill,
Helen Point and Active Pass, which offer the most interesting
paddling, even with the boating congestion. u
Paddling past Monarch Head
on Saturna Island on the
way to Narvaez Bay. This is
a particularly scenic stretch
protected as part of the Gulf
Islands National Park. Photo
by John Kimantas
SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 21
 The BC Marine Trail
u Trail guide preview: the South Islands
With distances greater, camping options
more spread out and a greater likelihood of
problems such as currents and wind, care in
trip planning is essential here – unless you
plan shorter trips such as an exploration of
Bedwell Harbour or Winter Cove.
Launches: While some paddlers could
reach the Penders and Saturna easily
from Saanich or Sidney, realistically most
visitors will likely prefer to launch from
one of the islands. Which one you start
from depends largely on the area you’d
like to visit, but equally important are ferry
connections, which can involve multiple
stops. Saturna, naturally, is usually the
most time-consuming to reach. Launch
options are marked on the maps to help
with trip planning, but please note the ones
with black icons aren’t official marine trail
locations. For more information on these
sites, see The Wild Coast Vol. 3.
Destinations:
Moresby Island. This is a private but
mostly pristine island with some great
shoreline to explore. It makes a wonderful
side trip to a stay at Portland Island.
Bedwell Harbour. While hardly
pristine, this is a nicely sheltered area that
is one of the key four-season paddling
locations in the Gulf Islands. Camping
is possible at Beaumont, the former
provincial park now folded into the national
park. Hiking is possible to a lookout atop
Mount Norman. A unique feature here
is the trestle bridge that joins the two
Pender islands (the only bridge in the Gulf
Islands). Currents can be considerable
through the pass. Beaches can be found at
22 COAST&KAYAK Magazine
Beaumont, Medicine Beach (an ecological
reserve) and Mortimer Spit north of the
bridge. The campsite is about 14 km / 9
miles from Portland Island.
South Saturna. Isolation and steep
shoreline have kept this area largely
undeveloped, and consequently made ideal
property for the new national park. The
largest stretch of protected shoreline in the
Gulf Islands runs 4 km / 2.5 miles from
Trueworthy Bight to Taylor Point, where
a sandy beach provides access to the ruins
of an old homestead. Java Islets nearby
are protected national park islets with no
access allowed. At Narvaez Bay is the new
national park campsite, with dramatic cliffs
at Monarch Head. Adjacent is Echo Bay, a
beautiful little cove with a trail to the outer
point. Another beautiful beach and unusual
rock formations can be found at Fiddlers
Cove, part of the Saturna Island Indian
Reserve. Consider a launch from Saturna
Beach; stop at the nearby vineyard during
your visit. It is 16 km / 10 miles from
Beaumont to the campsite at Narvaez Bay
on Saturna Island or 23 km / 14 miles to
James Bay on Prevost Island. Note currents
can be strong through here with rips off
Monarch Head and Java Islets.
North Saturna. Winter Cove is a
former provincial park now in the national
park that offers a boat launch, picnic sites
and trails but no camping. Boat Passage is
best navigated at slack. The north Saturna
shoreline is low bank to Tumbo Island,
where you’ll find beaches and a scenic trail.
Nearby Cabbage Island offers camping.
Reefs make exploration interesting. East
SUMMER 2011
Point is prone to strong currents and nasty
rips. Time a visit accordingly.
Samuel Island. This island is the
largest between Mayne and Saturna and
creates two very strong tidal channels to
either side. The offlying Belle Chain Islets
and Georgeson Island are part of the
national park with no access except the
islet closest to Samuel (known as Little
Samuel) where day use is allowed at the
south beach. Largely undeveloped land
along this side of Mayne Island makes for
interesting exploration in Horton, Bennett
and Campbell Bays.
Active Pass. Exploration is a risky
prospect in this narrow and twisting
passage given exceptionally high boat
traffic. Expect two large ferries to pass
here on their way between Victoria and
Vancouver. Keep well to the sides and
monitor call-in points on Channel 11 to
keep tabs on traffic (large vessels must call
in before entering the pass). Helen Point is
an unoccupied First Nations reserve with
a nice beach, while Galiano Island is highly
mountainous and scattered with provincial
and regional parks along much of the
Active Pass shore. A decommissioned
lighthouse at Georgina Point provides a
pleasant landmark.
Count the goats
Wildlife viewing that includes
goats? Yes! Goats can often be
seen scaling the steep shorelines of
Saturna and Prevost islands based
on the simple fact they have no
predators and can’t go anywhere.
But while interesting to watch they
have a price: their voracious appetite
includes the endangered native
foliage, raising an issue that may
eventually see them removed.
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SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 23
Penelakut 8 Chivers Pt. Bodega Ridge To Dionisio
To Pirates Cove
(Kuper) I. Provincial Park
8 Pebble Beach
8 Cabin Bay
The BC Marine Trail
8 Conover Cove
Wallace I.
8 Tent I. Galiano I.
To Kuper Island
Ä Hudson Pt.

Ballingal Islets
Ecological Reserve
To Chemainus Montague Harbour
Provincial Park
Trin Ä
com
a li 8
Walker Hook Ä Cha
Mary n nel
Lake Montague
Harbour
Parker I.

Ä Vesuvius Bay

Crofton
Ä
Booth Bay Long
Harbour
Ä
Ä
Ä Ganges
Ä Ganges
Harbour Harbour

Maple James Bay 8

Mountain

Saltspring I.

Ca
ptai
n
Pa
ssa
Ä Maple Bay Mount Maxwell

e g
Provincial Park

Baynes
Peak Burgoyne Bay
Burgoyne Bay Provincial Park

Mount
8 Belcher
Mount Ruckle
Tzuhalem Stoney Provincial
Hill Park
Mount
Sullivan
Sansum Ä
Narrows
Bruce Fulford
Peak Harbour

Hope Russell I.
Cowichan Bay Hill

8 Mount Mount Tuam

24 COAST&KAYAK Magazine
Magazine SUMMER Tuam Ecological Reserve
24 COAST&KAYAK Summer 2011
2011 To Saanich Inlet
 The Gulf Islands

Leg three:

Galiano I. Whaler Bay

Ä
Gossip I.

and Galiano
Sutil Bellhouse Sturdies Bay
Mtn . Mount Bluff Park
Galiano
Collinson Pt.
Provincial Park
Active Pass

Mayne I.

To Saturna Island

Prevost I.
The sun sets in this view from
Tent Island. Though not part
of the marine trail, it offers
a great potential campsite
courtesy the Penelakut
To the Penders
First Nation. Photo by John
Kimantas.
8 blessed with mostly steep shorelines, which makes kayak
T
o call Saltspring Island the heart of the
Gulf Islands is to acknowledge not only its
domineering physical presence (capped by the
highest peaks in the region), but also the cultural spirit
reflected in a bustling community of arts, boutiques and
bed&breakfasts.
Saltspring is the most populated of all the Gulf Islands,
at about 10,000 people, most of whom reside near
Vesuvius Bay or Ganges Harbour. Few inhabit the south
island, which is highly mountainous and consequently
dotted by trails and a smattering of parks.
To the north of Saltspring is Galiano Island, another key
center. The population tends to cluster near Active Pass
near the ferry terminal at Sturdies Bay. Direct ferry service
from Vancouver helps both islands with their roles as
holiday destinations and as homes away from home.
Those seeking to leave civilization behind won’t need
to go far from either island. As south Saltspring is largely
uninhabited, so goes north Galiano Island. Both areas are
exploration a great way to explore. Shoreline parks also
abound, with Wallace and Prevost islands key kayaking
destinations. Currents through the region can run high
and are highest in Active Pass, while Sansum Narrows can
be a novice whitewater adventure with rips. Winds also
funnel down Sansum and Trincomali Channel to the north,
so plan travel times to accommodate the worst.
u

8
SUMMER
Summer2011
2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine
COAST&KAYAK Magazine 25
25
Portland I.
 The BC Marine Trail
u Trail guide preview: Saltspring
Access: Numerous ways exist to launch
from both Saltspring and Galiano, as well
as from strategic locations on Vancouver
Island. For launches from Galiano,
Montague Harbour Provincial Park is a
Touring Whitewater Recreational
convenient and sheltered location. On
Saltspring, most harbours and bays have
boat ramps or beach accesses. Most of those
options are marked on the map on page
24. From Vancouver Island, Swartz Bay on
the top of Saanich Peninsula (see page 16),
Cowichan Bay, Maple Bay and Crofton all
offer access to Saltspring’s east and south
side, particularly Sansum Narrows.
Destinations:
Fulford Harbour. Off-lying Russell
Island is a great attraction with a good
beach, a jetty for boat landings, a trail
and historical buildings that reflect a
long history of pioneer occupation by
Hawaiians, a unique cultural connection.
Ganges Harbour. The commercial and
cultural heart of Saltspring, the harbour
has a long chain of islands to explore with
a beautiful picnic stop at Chocolate Beach
on Third Sister Island – a great beginner’s
outing and half-day trip.
Prevost Island. Arguably the prettiest
of the smaller Gulf Islands, the east shore
is dotted with islets, a historic lighthouse,
coves and cliffs. James Bay is a highly
strategic kayak campsite, though not
necessarily the prettiest, but large enough
for multiple groups. Most of the island is
private but undeveloped. Hopefully the
national park will snap up the rest of the
island before that can happen. Easy access
is possible from Ganges, Long Harbour and
Montague Harbour as well as the Penders
Crystal-X
Proudly Canadian
26 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011
and Mayne Island, though watch for rips
off Long Harbour in Captain Passage. It
is strategic for routes from Portland Island
and Beaumont on South Pender. It is 19 km
/ 12 miles to Wallace Island.
Montague Harbour. This provincial
park on Galiano is a good base for
What’s in a name?
Nothing accurate!
The Gulf Islands have a long history
of misnomers, with more being added
all the time.
Consider the name itself is an error.
The Gulf Islands were so named for the
proximity to the Gulf of Georgia by Capt.
George Vancouver back in 1792. Except
it wasn’t a gulf, and when the error was
discovered that name was changed to
the Strait of Georgia (that was 1865),
but the islands themselves were never
corrected and so they are actually the
Gulfless Islands.
Saltspring Island goes as “Salt Spring”
as often as not, but be sure the original
reference is a single word. If you go back
further you’ll find it called Chuan Island,
or perhaps even Ranfurley Island.
The latest error is how to define the
Gulf Islands. A political strategy of the
1990s defined the Gulf Islands as any
island in the Georgia Basin, so including
Texada, Bowen, and possibly even
Quadra Island well to the north.
The true definition is the area of
islands within the triangle bounded by
D’Arcy, Saturna and Gabriola islands,
leaving out Newcastle Island for some
odd reason.

Vincent Delogne photo
Chivers Point on Wallace Island can fill quickly
with kayakers during the summer. The beach
may not be the best but what it lacks in
sprawling sand it makes up for in protection.
Walking trails add to the appeal.
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The Gulf Islands
land exploration, but has limitations as
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to a simple transit. A new camping option is
being opened at Osborne Bay Park, thanks
to the Cowichan Valley Regional District. A
great launch for day trips is Maple Bay; good
picnic sites can be found near Maxwell Point
(though within the provincial park shoreline 250-539-2442
access is prohibited). Cowichan Bay also www.seakayak.ca
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SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 27
Ä The BC Marine Trail

Newcastle Island Ä
Ä Provincial Park Galiano Gallery
8
Protection I.
Ä Descanso Bay
8 Regional Park

Nanaimo
Gabriola I.
Silva Bay Ä

Drumbeg
Provincial Park Flat Top Islands
Dodd Narrows Ä
Mudge I.
Passage Ä
Gabriola Kendrick I.
Wakes Cove 8
Cedar Ä Provincial Park

De Courcy I.

Boat Harbour Ä
Pirates Cove
8 Provincial Park

Ruxton I.

Pylades I.
Valdes I.
Blackberry Pt.
Ä Blue Heron Park

Yellow Point

Kulleet Bay

Ladysmith Reid I.
Evening Cove Thetis I.
Transfer Beach Ä Ä
Ä

Penelakut
(Kuper) I.

28 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011 Chemainus Ä

Tent I. 8
 The Gulf Islands

Leg four: T
he sandstone formations in these
islands are remarkable, not just in appearance
but also in history. Back in 1792 some
sketches were made of one particular overhanging

The
sandstone gallery by an artist on an expedition
commanded by the Spanish explorer Galiano. The
namesake Galiano Gallery on Gabriola Island, an
overhanging sandstone shelf extending 90 meters /
300 feet, became famous as a result. It’s a local park
today, but while the most famous it’s not alone for
the dramatic sandstone rocks. Galleries, ledges and
fretted “brain rock” sandstone abound throughout
these islands.

North
A key kayaking route for this region is from
Cedar down the DeCourcy Group to Pirates Cove,
the whimsical name for a provincial park and a key
kayaking campsite and anchorage. This area’s fame
comes way of Brother XII, a cult leader immortalized
in court proceedings that charged fraud as well as
stories of black magic, hanky-panky, coercion and
the role of a whip-wielding Madam Zee. It’s much

Islands
tamer there today, of course, though raccoons are
known to have lively 3 a.m. revelries at the expense
of a camper’s poorly stowed picnic basket.
Of all the large Gulf Islands, Valdes is remarkable
for being the only one without BC Ferries service,
which in turn means fewer residents and more
undeveloped land. Most of the island is designated
for forestry, with logging roads providing land
access. A newly protected area is Wakes Cove,
purchased in 2003.
By contrast Gabriola Island has a high residential
population and only a scattering of protected
shoreline, notably a regional campsite at Descanso
Bay and a provincial park at Drumbeg. Thetis Island
is a haven for religious summer camps, for some
odd reason, while Penelakut Island (changed from
Kuper Island in 2010) is a Penelakut First Nation
reserve with some housing and a beautiful sand
spit on the north end. Tent Island is also a reserve.
While not part of the marine trail system, camping
ss is allowed there by arrangement with the band.
r Pa
rlie The island itself is phenomenally beautiful and a
Po Dionisio Provincial Park highlight of the area, which already boasts many.
u

8
Galiano I.

8 Chivers Pt. Intricate sandstone

Wallace I. patterns define this part of
8 Cabin Bay the Gulf Islands. Photo by
Reale Edmond.

8 Conover Cove SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 29

Saltspring I.
 The BC Marine Trail
u Trail guide preview: the North Islands
Launches: Boat ramps in Chemainus and
Cedar on Vancouver Island provide critical
access for all types of boats, while kayakers
can round out the assortment of options
by using parks like Drumbeg on Gabriola
or Evening Cove at the north entrance to
Ladysmith Harbour. The main options are
marked on the map on page 28.
Destinations:
North Galiano. Porlier Pass is a
dangerous tidal passage with strong
currents, rips and overfalls, so time a
crossing for slack tide. Once on the
outside Dionisio Provincial Park offers
camping (not yet part of the official
marine trail inventory) and a great day-use
beach at Coon Bay plus trails. It is highly
recommended.
Thetis and Penelakut islands. This
odd pair is split by a narrow dredged channel
that can run shallow even for kayaks. Thetis
is partly residential and partly sprawling bible
camps. Penelakut Island is a Penelakut band
reserve, and mostly undeveloped. The sandy
spit on the northeast end is a great picnic
destination. While most of the small nearby
islands are private, Tent Island is a Penelakut
property but with access for camping. Ask
for permission with the band office at 250-
246-2321. The island is wonderfully scenic
with some beautiful cliffs and beaches.
Blackberry Point. The first marine
trail campsite, it now sits in limbo as the
lease with the current owners has expired.
Though now unofficial, camping is not
specifically banned (knock on wood). To the
north is a log dump with a bit of a beach
that allows access to the island’s interior via
30 COAST&KAYAK Magazine
logging roads.
The DeCourcy Group. This line of
islands runs from Vancouver Island at
Dodd Narrows, a potentially dangerous
tidal passage, southeast to Pylades Island.
Spectacular sandstone formations can be
found along most islands but particularly
south DeCourcy Island. Pirates Cove is
the main kayaking campsite and a popular
anchorage. A great clamshell beach sits off
Ruxton Island and is a perfect kayak stop at
low tides. The campsite at Pirates Cove is 20
km / 12 miles from Wallace Island.
Ladysmith Harbour. The Vancouver
Island Paddlefest is held at Transfer
Beach, which is a natural kayak launch for
explorations of the harbour all year round.
The harbour makes a novice agenda that
can include the Dunsmuir Islands or out to
the beach at Evening Cove (an alternative
launch site).
Flat Top Islands. Located off the east
end of Gabriola Island, this collection of
SUMMER
SUMMER2011
2011
Paddling past the Secretary
Islands north of Thetis Island.
islands is all private except for two islets
off Saturnina Island. Launching is possible
from Silva Bay, which offers services, or
Drumbeg Park. Nearby Kendrick Island
is adjoined by a smaller islet that can also
serve for casual camping. Gabriola Passage
runs several knots and can have dangerous
rips. Wakes Cove is now a provincial park
and a good picnic location.
Nanaimo Harbour. Home to
Coast&Kayak Magazine, Nanaimo is a busy
port town reflected in the ferry terminal,
shipping traffic and many marinas.
However, the bustle melts away in the cover
of Newcastle Island, a provincial park set
smack in the middle of the harbour that
offers a network of trails as long as 10 km
each, beaches and camping. Jesse Island,
to the north, has the only paddle-through
caves in the Gulf Islands. Protection Island
to the south is mostly private and highly
developed, with the attraction being a
floating pub. See you there!
 The Gulf Islands

The BC Marine Trails Network Is Here!

Join in a FLOTILLA of KAYAKS and CANOES on the Follow us online at
water at
The VANCOUVER ISLAND PADDLEFEST in www.bcmarinetrails.org
Ladysmith,BC
MAY 14TH, 2011 The BCMTNA Vision:
PURPOSE: To create a Marine Trails Opening Events A Marine Trails Network, Designed by Paddlers,
SPLASH that will NOT be forgotten!
Secured by Government.
Register here - www.bcmarinetrails.org

As of May 14th the first 2 sections of the BC Marine Trails Network BCMTNA MEMBER CLUBS:
(West Coast Vancouver Island North Trails and Gulf Islands Trails) • Campbell River Paddlers
will be officially opened. • Comox Valley Paddlers Club
• Cowichan Kayak and Canoe Club
The BC Marine Trails Network is an interconnecting series of • Nanaimo Paddlers
access/launch sites and campsites for users of small, beachable
watercraft, mostly hand powered such as kayaks and canoes, which will • Pacific International Kayak Association
cover the entire coast of British Columbia. • Recreational Canoeing Association of BC
• Sea Kayak Association of BC
At its completion, the BC Marine Trails Network will become the • South Island Sea Kayak Association
longest continuous water trail in the world!
• Victoria Canoe and Kayak Club

Sponsors of the
BCMTN include:

SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 31

 The BC Marine Trail
u Trail guide preview: running the Gulf Islands
The BCMTNA is adding the word
“network” to the Gulf Islands Marine Trail
because there is no specific single route.
Rather, there is a spiderweb of potential
travel options that defy the best definition of
trail, because, really, once you’re in the Gulf
Islands you can’t really fall outside a route.
Having acknowledged the freeform
nature of kayaking here, the other side of the
coin is the island cluster begins near Sidney
and ends in Nanaimo (or visa versa). And so
a linear trip, either end to end or there and
back, is certainly possible. There are three
major options for completing this goal: the
inside route through Sansum Narrows, the
outer route through Trincomali Channel, and
the outside route along the Strait of Georgia.
For sheer adventure and relative isolation,
the outside route is a challenge worth
considering. Official campsites are harder to
come by, but a run from Kendrick Islet to
Dionisio to Pebble Beach to Cabbage Island
is realistic and achievable, with the caveat
that poor conditions are amplified on the
more exposed side of the Gulf Islands.
32 COAST&KAYAK Magazine
The outer route is arguably more scenic,
given that the tilt of the islands favors cliffs
to the inside. So great scenery exists along
south Valdes, Galiano and Saturna islands.
The mountain scenery is dramatic
along the inside route through Sansum
Narrows, plus you can avoid the residential
humdrummery of Vancouver Island by
scooting along Thetis and Kuper islands
once past Saltspring. If you’re looking for
Circumnavigations are another option
for extending trips. Saltspring Island could a better map...
conceivably be a long weekend excursion Coast&Kayak’s parent company
(though a fourth day would come in Wild Coast Publishing has produced
handy). Careful timing of the outer islands a detailed, full-colour 24x36” double
is necessary due to the tidal passages at sided Gulf Islands map in anticipation
of the Gulf Islands Marine Trails
every end of all of them: Gabriola, Valdes,
Network. It includes information on
Galiano, Mayne and Saturna.
route options, distances between
The great thing is the possible key sites and features and items
permutations mean it could take years to of interest for kayakers not on
cover all the islands, and by then you’ll be Hydrographic Services marine charts.
ready to do the best bits again. To keep track The map is available online at
of changes in the marine trail, including new www.coastandkayak.com under the
sites and new legs as they are announced, Products/Services tab.
visit www.bcmarinetrails.org
SUMMER 2011
COAST&KAYAK
Magazine

Introducing our 2011

birthday sweeps, with our
grand prize courtesy Atlantis
Kayaks: The Atlantis Titan VI.
To enter, read here online:
www.coastandkayak.com

Already awarded: Win in May: Win in June:

Suspenz Boat Stand RapidUp Sail Gullwing Paddle

Won by Suzen Searle of Oak Harbour, Make the wind work for your kayak A radical design shaped for the way you
Washington in our first draw. courtesy Advanced Elements. paddle.

No purchase necessary. Void where prohibited by law. Full details in the multimedia version of this magazine online at www.coastandkayak.com
SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 33
Gulf Islands Marine Trail: Tours and Services

Featured in this edition, the Gulf Islands

offer serene paddling from island to
island in mostly protected waters. Look
to these tour, transportation and service
options to add the carefree magic to your
Gulf Islands kayaking adventure.

Tours ▪ Expeditions ▪ Rentals

Sales ▪ Lessons ▪ Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria, on the

‘Gulf Islands Marine Trail Network’
Toll free: 1-888-749-2333
cowichanbaykayak.com Gabriola Sea Kayaking
www.cowichanbaykayak.com
Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group, Clayoquot
Sound , Broughton Archipelago, Kyuquot Sound ,
Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands. Unforgettable
paddling and great people since 1995. See you on Queen Charlottes: Tours/Services
the water!
Phone: 250-247-0189
Web: www.kayaktoursbc.com

Wilderness Adventures for Women

Kayak beautiful Vancouver Island, spectacular
mountain vistas, old growth rainforests, amazing
wildlife, rentals, lessons and tours, open year round.
Women’s Transformative Journey by Kayak.
All Women - All Fun!!
Phone: 250.755.6702, toll free 1.866.955.6702
Web: www.adventuress.ca
Email: Jan@adventuress.ca

Kayak Tours &

Expeditions in Wilderness Youth
the Spectacular Camps & Eco-Retreats
Gulf Islands for Schools/Groups
Tours and Services: East Canada
SKGABC
approved Kayak Haida Gwaii
Guides Among the world's top paddling destinations, Gwaii
Certification
.CA Courses
Haanas is an awe-inspiring oasis of wilderness at the
southern tip of Haida Gwaii. Local outfitter providing
MADAWASKA KANU CENTRE guided multi-day kayak adventures since 2000.
1-888-652-5268 Adventures & Education since1991 Web: www.gckayaking.com
Located near Algonquin Park, Ontario. Offers personal instruction Email: paddle@gckayaking.com
from beginner to expert levels. Weekend and 5-day courses. 1 888 529-2567 • 250 537 2553 • www.islandescapades.com Phone: 250-559-4682

34 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011

Gulf Islands Marine Trail: Accommodation

Travel in comfort,
Breezy and create your
Lakeside Cottage & Beachside Flat

Bay B&B own personal

marine trail with
Secure beach access 1 minute walk to B&B these B&Bs and Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations on beautiful Salt Spring Island
10% OFF STAY 1 888 529 2567 www.islandescapades.com
resorts. Put the
IF ARRIVING BY PADDLE BOAT
Special group & extended stay rates
tent aside for a Cedar Beach
Call us at 250-539-5957
luxurious Ocean Lodge
and pampered Thetis Island
or visit us online at www.breezybaybb.ca
exploration.

Saturna Lodge
An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-
appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms. Cozy
common room and lovely grounds. Full breakfast
included in rates. Visit our website for details.
Web: www.saturna.ca
Email: innkeeper@saturna.ca
Phone: 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

• Kayak-friendly waterfront
with landing • Kayaks/sauna/
hot tub • Two spacious rooms
with en-suites • Guided beach
walks if tides favorable • Marine
naturalist/author in residence
www.cedar-beach.com
1-250-246-9770
Alaska: Tours and Services

Kayak Transport Co.

A Mothership Serving SE Alaska. Kayaking from
the comforts of a mothership for a week. Paddling
our boats and exploring fantastic scenery and wildlife.
Eating fresh caught Alaskan seafood. How good does
it get?!
Email: staff@kayaktransport.com
Web: www.kayaktransport.com
Phone: (206) 719-0976

SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 35

 Desolation Sound / Discovery Islands: Tours and Services

Next in line for a marine trail, discover remote and

adventurous paddling in the straits of remote BC.
Explore worry-free in the hands of these experts.

Lund Kayak Tours & Rentals

Kayak tours, lessons, rentals & marine delivery.
Desolation Sound, Mitlenatch Island, Copeland Islands
marine parks. Personalized service, stunning scenery,
fascinating history, delicious organic lunches. Family /
child friendly programs.
Phone: 1.888.552.5558 OR 604.483.7900
Web: www.terracentricadventures.com
Email: fun@terracentricadventures.com

Kayak Desolation Sound

Rent kayaks from waterfront locations in Lund or
Okeover Inlet. Try the Famous Aquarium Kayak Tour or
snorkel at Urchin Alley. All-inclusive multi-day trips into
Desolation & Mountains.
Phone: Toll free 1-866-617-4444
Web: www.bcseakayak.com Tours and Services: Tropical
Email: info@bcseakayak.com

Desolation Sound / Discovery Islands: Accommodation

Luxurious
Waterfront
Lodge, Cabins
& Platform Tents Tours and Services: Europe
• Kayak/Yoga Retreats • Wildlife & Bird Watching
• Family & Group Holidays • Clubs • Meetings

Natura Viva: Sea kayak Finland

Paddle in and paddle out
Deluxe beachfront house by the wharf. Two-bedroom
luxury cottage, floor-to-ceiling windows, living
room with gas fireplace, full kitchen, two bathrooms
including jetted tub, wrap-around deck, bbq.
Phone: 250-285-2042
Web: www.capemudgeresort.bc.ca
Email: info@capemudgeresort.bc.ca
Enjoy the unique Finnish coastline and the Baltic
Sea archipelago, or the lake country labyrinth of
waterways. Day trips, multi-day guided tours, self-
guided tours and kayak rentals are all available. All our
guides are trained professionals and our equipment is
top of the line.
Web: www.seakayakfinland.com
Email: info@naturaviva.fi
Phone: +358 50 376 8585

36 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011

 Vancouver Island North and West: Tours and Services
Nootka transport and rentals
Experience the best kayaking in the Pacific Northwest
from Tahsis, B.C. in the heart of Nootka Sound. Kayak
rentals and transport to Nuchatlitz Park, Yuquot
(Friendly Cove), Bligh Island Marine Park and beyond.
Phone: 1-866-934-6365
Website: www.tahtsadivecharters.com
Email: dive@tahtsadivecharters.com
Odyssey Kayaking
BC Ferries port; Gateway to Northern and Central
BC Coast destinations. Sales, Rentals, Lessons, Trip
planning. 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post
Office) Port Hardy.
Phone: 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318
Email: odyssey@island.net
Web: www.odysseykayaking.com
Wilderness Sea Kayaking
Vancouver Island Kayaking Tours and Wilderness
Retreat. Guided ecotourism adventures in remote
Kyuquot, the Bunsby Islands, and Brooks Peninsula.
Unmatched base camp, spectacular kayaking, diverse
wildlife, and First Nations cultural interactions.
Phone: 1.800.665.3040 or 250.338.2511
Web: www.westcoastexpeditions.com
Email: info@westcoastexpeditions.com
Vancouver Island West: Accommodation
Private one-of-a-kind Island...
Wondrous Lodge in Kyuquot
West Coast of Vancouver Island
Featured in the Spring 2011 Unforgettable Retreat... On the Edge of the Pacific
A very Unique Holiday... Best Fishing &
issue, this vast region covers Adventures on the Wild Pacific Coast.
protected archipelagos and
1.888.920.6075 info@seaotterlodgebc.com
the most adventurous open www.seaotterlodgebc.com
water anywhere.
Paddle with sea otters
Kayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island,
Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove. Kayak rentals.
CEDARS INN rooms and restaurant in a historic
Zeballos lodge. Good food, friendly service.
Phone: 1-866-222-2235
Web: www. zeballosexpeditions.com
Email: info@zeballosexpeditions.com
Tofino’s Kayak Centre
Tofino’s kayaking centre providing daily sea kayak
tours and kayak rentals since 1988. Pick up books and
supplies for the West Coast lifestyle. Enjoy espresso on
our waterfront deck.
Phone: 1-800-TOFINO-4 (1-800-863-4664)
Web: www.tofinoseakayaking.com
Email: info@tofinoseakayaking.com
Tours and Services: Yukon
Kanoe People Ltd.
Explore Yukon's great rivers and lakes! Rentals, sales,
guided tours and logistic services. Cabin rentals
summer and winter on the scenic Lake Laberge.
Outfitting on the Yukon for over 35 years.
Web: www.kanoepeople.com
Email: info@kanoepeople.com
Phone: 867-668-4899
SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 37
 Gear and Kayaks
Glenn Lush of Seaward Kayaks shows off
the Ascenté at Cowichan Bay.
S
eaward Kayaks introduced its
own particular style of X factor a
few years ago by offering the Quest
X3. The X3 is the reference to a third hatch
and bulkhead. Based on the success with
the Quest it was only natural that Seaward
extend the option to other kayaks.
So enter the X3 for two other Seaward
models for 2011: the Chilco and the
Ascenté. The Ascenté is well known to us
here as we did our best to destroy one back
in 2006. The story: our kayak rack failed
and the Ascenté was pitched onto blacktop
at 120 km/h. Though damaged, it went
directly from the pavement to a
30-day kayaking trip. So, for starters, the
model is a proven performer – for those
with poorly installed kayak racks, anyway.
Others who might find it equally useful
will generally fall into the 5’6” to 6’0” range
er C third hatch? It depends how you want to
Wat es Rec oast
n t ur rea
Ve over 30 titles
Ma tion
ps
British original outdoor maps
Columbia
specialized for sea kayaking Mexico
NE
W DVD video guides
NE (available later in 2011) W
www.CoastalWatersGroup.com
38 COAST&KAYAK Magazine
Seaward’s factor
Seaward Ascenté X3
Length
18’5”
Beam
22.5"
Depth
14"
Cockpit
x
31"L x 16"W
Total storage Weight
357 litres 55 lbs.
Hull Chine Design: Base model Options Control
ShallowV Soft Symmetrical Fiberglass Kevlar/HV Rudder
and be looking for a good all-purpose one-inch outer and 4-inch inner fiberglass
touring craft with almost no rocker. Shave seam between the deck and hull to aid
the best part of two inches off the width of strength. Long gone is the old Seaward
most other West Coast touring cruisers and foam seat in favor of a more comfortable
you have ample storage capacity (190 litres) and adjustable thermoform model. There’s
combined with no-nonsense performance: even a small drink holder in the cockpit,
tracking, stowing, no bouncing on waves reflective tape on the deck and a foul line
but possibly less stability for novices. for easy tie-ups.
The finer points: The Ascenté features a So which to choose: a third hatch or no
stash your goods. You gain quick access to
things like rain jackets, snacks and lunch
Baja
but at the expense of space usually taken
by the bulkiest items. So think fewer lawn
chairs but your own personal beer and wine
cooler. Or substitute items that might better
apply to your own personal preferences.
11sp_lasso_01.pdf 1 2/4/2011 8:57:03 AM
Secure Your Next Adventure
Cable Locks for Your Kayak
C
CM
MY
Lasso Security Cables
are simply the strongest,
CY
easiest and most effective
CMY
theft deterrent available
K for your kayak.
www.bckayaks.com www.lassosecuritycables.com
(250)391-03331 nwca@shaw.ca 707-498-9905
SUMMER 2011
 Gear and Kayaks

Peregrine Kayaks Inflatable SUP

With standup
paddleboards (SUPs)
growing in popularity,
it was only a matter
of time before one
was built to be packed
into a pouch. Enter
Advanced Elements,
Upstart kayak manufacturer Peregrine is expanding its line in 2011 with the Keweenaw, the specialists in
a diminutive option at just 14’ long, 23” wide and 38 pounds in composite fiberglass. The products that come
hull design is billed as hybrid – a hard chine, shallow V for initial stability and edging, with with a pump. The
a soft radius above the lower hull’s hard chine for secondary stability. Options are highly Hula 11 inflatable
customizable and include a rudder and any color imaginable. You send a sample, they’ll SUP is made of
match it. We recommend dayglow fuscia. Be the first! www.peregrinekayaks.com. high-pressure drop-
stitched material
Gullwing and a double layer
of heavy duty PVC
tarpaulin for ultra
stiff performance
and durability. Inflate
If you’re a paddler plagued by recurring pain, a different blade design might be the board in minutes
worth considering. The new Gullwing 230cm model is the latest entry from the Boston using the included
manufacturer, designed with an ergonomic shape to make paddling easier for a variety double-action hand
of physical conditions. The intent is to cut just below the water surface with the angled pump and enjoy it
blade, so high-angle paddlers need not apply. The shaft is one-piece aluminum and to paddle, surf or
contoured so it will sit nicely on a kayak’s prow while resting. The blade is powdered nylon, to kayak thanks to
and interchangeable thanks to a quick release system. Foam grips add to the comfort. the optional seat
Want to try one? We can offer one better: you can win the Gullwing 230 cm paddle in attachment. It weighs
Coast&Kayak’s anniversary sweepstakes. See page 33 for details. just 10kg.
www.gullwingpaddles.com (Not available in dayglow fuscia.) www.advancedelements.com

New Portable
Boat Stands
For Kayaks, Canoes, SUP’s

TM

Suspenz.com 866.787.7369

SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 39

 Build a kayak

Build a faux cedar kayak

T
he first issue of Wavelength
Magazine was dated May/June
1991, making this the ‘official’ 20th
birthday magazine. To mark the occasion
we’ve decided to give everyone a birthday
gift of a free kayak with no strings attached
(can’t fit a string in a magazine anyway).
Our dream was a cedar kayak, but in this
world of laminates and veneer we decided
it would be easier if we gave you a faux
cedar strip finish. So on the next page is
a complete faux cedar kayak kit. Simply
cut out the square and follow the folds in
sequence, then contort everything and flip it
inside out without defacing it. Completion
time is anywhere from three minutes to
never depending on your particular skill CKMagazine Papyrus I
level. Length Beam Depth Cockpit Total storage Weight
Should you require more than one kayak 4.25” 2.25" 1.75" 2"L x 2"W 34 jelly beans 0.003 lbs.
(as we’re sure everyone will), go to
Hull Chine Design: Base model Options Control
www.coastandkayak.com and in the
Yes Hard Origami Paper Don’t build Not for us!
multimedia online version of this issue click
here to bring up a printable version of the
template. That would mean clicking this very We are also including detailed written The first two folds are immediately
spot, right here on this page! Click click click! instructions for those who continue to unfolded. They provide a quarter grid that
In addition, at this same location you can forsake our online edition. As a courtesy we will be used to measure subsequent folds.
click to see a video of us constructing one decided not to print the instructions entirely The third fold turns an outside quarter in
of these kayaks. Click here click click click! It’s a in Spanish. Though we were tempted... to the center. Then unfold. The new fold line
family-friendly video – one finished kayak, For those critical that the end result is is used as guide for a smaller half-fold’s end
no swearing. We’re quite proud of that. only marginally like a kayak, watch for the point. The half-fold is then folded again on
You need not necessarily use the Papyrus II in our 50th anniversary issue. the previous fold line. The same sequence is
provided paper or pattern. Any square piece Instrucciones: followed on the opposite corner, completing
of paper will do. Just follow the same fold Fold in the numbered order, with the folds 5 and 6. See photo 1. The paper is then
sequences, using the first two fold lines as a fold direction doubling over the dotted line flipped over. Repeat the same fold, unfold
grid for subsequent folds. (Fold a 20’ x 20’ so the dotted line can’t be seen when the and half-fold sequence for the remaining two
square of paper, get a full size kayak!) fold is completed. corners. u

40 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011

 )
ce
twi

9
fold

Fold 1
en
(th
6
ld
Fo

Fold 14

Fo
ld
)ld

22
nfo
nu
the
5(
ld
Fo

Fold 1
8

Fold 15
Fold 13
ld)
nfo
nu
the

Fold 2
0
1(
ld
Fo

Fo
ld
2(
the
nu
Fo
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7

the
Fold 1

twi
3(

fold
ld

en
Fo

(th
4
ld
Fo

Fold once more from each side so the two
ends meet in the middle. The hull bottom
should be completely covered. See photo
2. Next fold in each corner at 90 degrees.
Then fold in each corner again at an odd
angle from each end to the middle. It gets a
bit lumpy, but these folds are important as
they’ll be key to how the whole thing hitches
together when it’s flipped inside out. See
photo 3 for how yours should look.
Next, reach in and locate the seam in
the middle, pulling the edges out so you
form a canoe (photo 4). You should see the
cedar hull is on the inside and the top deck
portions flush against what is currently the
bottom. Essentially right now your kayak is
inside out. To rectify this is a bit of a trick.
You will have to invert the hull’s frame by
pushing the sides out and away from the
deck so the walls invert, the hull drops
down and the deck stands upright on its
own (here’s where the online video would
be helpful. Admit it, the online version
would help even if you are in complete denial
and continue to stare at your half-finished
kayak in defiance of the technology
available to make your life simpler).
Once you master the ‘flip’ it’s done. And
the flip isn’t that tough – it’s just a stretch to
believe you won’t ruin the kayak when you
push down on the sides (though you may
crumple it a bit).
Assuming it isn’t now crumpled in a
waste basket, your faux cedar strip kayak
is now ready to use. May it provide many
years of kayaking pleasure.
Safety disclaimer: Actual jelly bean
capacity may vary. Use caution when setting
on fire with a blow torch. Avoid starchy and
fatty foods. Exercise daily. Lavado a mano,
enjuagar cuidadosamente. Un pastor alemán
me mordío en la pierna izquierda. Gracias!

SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 41

 )
ce
twi
fold
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9
ld
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)ld
nfo
nu
the
8(
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12
ld
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11
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7(
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)
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Be one of the paddling elite!

Coast&Kayak Magazine publishes four times of
year to promote the skills, enjoyment and potential
of paddlesports of all types. Make sure you never
miss another issue by subscribing today.
Online: www.coastandkayak.com
Phone: 1.866.984.6437

www.coastandkayak.com
42 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011
 “Getting Y o u O u t T h e r e ”

oceanriveradventures.com SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 43

 ?
Ecology by Trudy Chatwin

S
ome of the best experiences
in a kayak are when you can slip
quietly along and observe marine
How close is
too close
life so close that you feel a part of nature.
However, disturbance by approaching too
close is often cited as a major threat to
birds and other wildlife. Indeed, disturbance
of seabird nest sites can cause parents to
leave eggs and chicks unattended, making
them vulnerable to crows, bald eagles and
even the cold from being left unattended.
In some cases a seabird colony may desert
entirely if it is continually disturbed.

Now we know! Here are

So how to best balance wildlife viewing
against minimizing disturbance? As a
conservation biologist, nature guide and
an avid kayaker, I studied the distance
that seabirds at nest and roost sites off
Vancouver Island exhibited disturbance.
This information was used to create
guidelines to sustain both seabirds and
wildlife viewing.
On Vancouver Island, eco-tourism
boating excursions regularly visit Cleland
Island in Clayoquot Sound and Great
Chain Island Ecological Reserve and
Mandarte Island near Victoria. Recreational
boaters, fishermen and sea kayakers also
visit offshore islets, reefs and coastal
areas that support roosting and nesting
seabirds. Some of the species nesting
on Vancouver Island, including double-
crested cormorant, Brandt’s cormorant and
common murre, are considered species-
at-risk, while pelagic cormorant numbers
are declining. Despite consequences of
disturbance to nesting seabirds, guidelines
for viewing seabirds in British Columbia
fact-based guidelines for how
close to get to seabirds
have mostly been established based on
regulations developed for viewing killer
whales, or set conservatively to 100 metres
with little actual field observation. The goal
of my study was therefore to recommend
scientifically based set-back distances which
would minimize disturbance to birds while
allowing boaters to enjoy viewing seabirds.
The study included all surface nesting
and roosting seabirds in six study areas
around Vancouver Island from Barkley
and Clayoquot sounds on the west coast
of Vancouver Island to Mitlenatch Island,
Nanaimo, the southern Gulf Islands and
Victoria in the Salish Sea.
Park rangers, (including Pete Clarkson,
Francis Bruhwiler and Mike Rody) and
conservation officers including Peter
Pauwels ably skippered the motorboats
I used in the study. A single kayak was
carried on each motorboat to conduct the
tests with both types of craft. The field
test involved driving the motorboat slowly
(4-6 kmh / 3-4 mph) or paddling the kayak
directly towards an islet with a roost or nest
site. Species and numbers of birds were
recorded and distances were measured
with a Rangefinder. I encountered pelagic,
Brandt’s and double-crested cormorants,
pigeon guillemots, black oystercatchers,

Double-crested
cormorants nest
on Mitlenatch
Island, one of
the few seabird
nesting sites in
the Gulf Islands.
Trudy Chatwin photo

44 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011

 Birdwatching guidelines

glaucous-winged gulls and Harlequin ducks with enough samples to Oystercatchers are highly
conduct a statistical analysis in the study areas. The distance that the susceptible to disturbance.
birds showed a visible agitation reaction (considered alertness, neck
raising, looking back and forth or standing up more erect to the
approach) was recorded.
In all I conducted over 500 tests which may seem like a lot,
but when it comes to statistical analysis of the multiple factors
that could influence the distance at which a seabird is agitated,
there always could be more data! With some coaching from my
great friend and biometrician, Ruth Joy, I analyzed the probability
that birds would be agitated when the boat approached at various
distances.

Bill Pennel photo

I found generally that roosting seabirds were less tolerant to
boat approach than nesting seabirds and that different species had
different tolerances for boat approach. Black oystercatchers were
the exception. They nest on the surface of rocky islets and crouch
low down to avoid being noticed. Their nests are very vulnerable
to predation if the adult leaves the nest. They are highly distressed
by humans landing or walking near their nest and it follows that
they are most agitated at close proximity to the nest. Since black
oystercatchers are a species of high viewing interest, it is important
to know that roosting oystercatchers can tolerate closer approach,
while nest sites require protection especially from landing boats and
foot traffic.
Is there a difference in seabird response to kayaks versus
motorboats?
My study demonstrated that a single kayak could approach closer
than a motorboat to seabird roost and nest sites without an agitation
response. With the kayak at 40m there was only a 3 to 10 percent
chance of seabirds being agitated. Seabirds likely perceive a group of
kayakers as a larger threat than a single kayak and kayakers generally
travel in groups. As well, kayakers have been known to disturb birds
as they are able to approach and land on islands that motorboats
cannot access. These factors, combined with other managers’
recommendation to setting simple, easy to remember guidelines, led
me to recommend sharing a general single set-back distance based
upon the motorboat agitation response threshold of 50m. u

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outside of
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 Ecology
Harlequin ducks at
rest on Hornby Island.
My data suggest that site-specific set-
backs are needed where two highly sensitive
species, Harlequin ducks and Brandt’s
cormorants, occur. Although Harlequin
ducks are not at-risk in British Columbia
they are a species that is considered to be
sensitive and likely declining. Research
scientist Ian Goudie reported that due
to their small body size and high winter
feeding requirements, Harlequin ducks
cannot accommodate increased stress.
During the late spring-early summer time
when my study was conducted, male
Harlequin ducks congregate in molting
aggregations around small islets. As they
cannot always fly when their feathers are
molting, Harlequin ducks are very sensitive
to disturbance at this time.
Kayakers should approach seabird
roost and nest sites in a tangential manner,
and then paddle parallel to shore at the
prescribed distance. The tangential approach
is less threatening to birds than either a
direct approach or a stealthy approach from
behind rocks. Harlequin Duck and Brandt’s
46 COAST&KAYAK Magazine
The guidelines
in a nutshell:
1. Do not land on seabird nest or
Trudy Chatwin photo
roost sites.
2. Slow to less than 5 kmh within
200 metres of a nest site.
3. Approach seabirds at an angle
or parallel to the shore. No sneaking
up on birds!
4. Stay 50 metres away from
cormorant roost aggregate sites should seabird nest sites and important
receive an extra 20m buffer to the 50m and roosting islets.
have a strict no-landing policy. If so, then Note: In Gulf Islands National
disturbance to seabirds from kayaks could Park Reserve there is a 100 metre
virtually be eliminated. buffer around islets in the Special
Preservation Zone. In the Broken
The set-back guidelines determined
Group Islands Faber Harlequin ducks
by my experimentation turned out to be
are extremely sensitive and roosting
significantly less than the 100m guidelines areas such as Ballingall Islets and
recommended at present. The knowledge Hornby Island should have a 70
that guidelines are based on science, rather metre buffer.
than just another rule, should help with 5. Watch for the signs! Agitated
compliance. This should include establishing seabirds will raise their heads, act
codes of conduct in consultation with alert, walk about or raise wings
boat tour operators, park and management before flying. Flying away creates a
agencies, marking of set-backs with buoys significant energy loss for birds and
and having wardens monitor sites. Education can cause birds to abandon their
nest and chicks.
for recreational boaters, park managers and
guides to recognize seabirds, the signs of bird
agitation and understand the implications
of disturbance is a good first step. I believe Trudy Chatwin is a species at risk biologist
that given knowledge and guidance, kayakers with the British Columbia government. She is
and other outdoor enthusiasts will become well known for paddling from her home on
the greatest supporters of seabirds and other Protection Island to Nanaimo with her dog
conservation efforts. as co-pilot.
<
SUMMER 2011
Paddling is my reminder.
It makes me smile when I’ m punching
the clock, it keeps me excited.
Paddling washes away the routine.
- Allen
Allen Satcher – NRS Ambassador, only paddles class “fun” water. Lake Tahoe, CA.
©Lisa Skaff

What does paddling mean to you?

Share your thoughts at nrsweb.com/share 800-635-5202
SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 47
 Skillset
Don’t go down
I with the ship!
love paddling in dynamic
conditions and playing in wind, waves
and current. And I’m lucky enough to
have a small network of like-minded friends
who enjoy the same sort of outings. Because
we elect to paddle in “more challenging”
conditions, around rocks and other
immovable objects, we sometimes damage
boats – and, yes, sometimes catastrophically.
This winter has been a stormy one,
offering up lots of play, plus a couple of
seriously crunched sea kayaks. Within a
two-week period, two boats were severely
damaged by two different paddlers. The
first was a brand new poly boat that was
badly cracked in a high-speed collision in
surf. Sadly, the boat was beyond repair (it
was replaced by the manufacturer). The
second kayak was a brand new composite
boat that collided very heavily with a rock,
mashing in its bow. This kayak was repaired.
Over the last seven years, I’ve owned two
composite play boats and smacked holes in
both of them.
All this kayak carnage isn’t wholly
unexpected. The rules of engagement are
pretty simple: if you choose to paddle in
breaking waves around rocks and reefs,
it’s not so much a question of “if ” you
will eventually collide with something, but
“when.” If you paddle a composite kayak,
a heavy enough blow will generate a hole.
And even poly boats are not completely
immune to cracking.
Afloat, the real problems start very soon
48 COAST&KAYAK Magazine
Thinking about
sinking? Here’s
a way to avoid
the possibility
after you’ve created the hole in your boat –
because it now has a distinct tendency to fill
with water.
My solution to retaining flotation is to fit
a set of float bags inside my boat’s hatches.
While a dedicated float bag system
specifically designed for sea kayaks doesn’t
seem to exist, NRS (www.nrsweb.com)
does offer a full selection of extremely
durable float bags. I’ve fitted the NRS
“Split” floats in my stern compartment
(two bags are required as they must fit
either side of the skeg box) and the
NRS “Large Standard” bag for the bow
compartment. Although the bags are a
little short in length, they still displace
80 to 90 percent of the water that would
otherwise fill the hatch in the event of
a breach. I have not fitted a bag to my
day hatch as I prefer to fill that volume
SUMMER 2011
By Alex Matthews
This is a rather more cheerful
outlook than might be expected
from a kayaker when a crack
leads to the flooding of a bow
hatch and the cockpit.
Photo by Dave Aharonian
with my regular supplies (and since these
are contained in drybags they effectively
displace water anyway).
The benefits are significant:
• Float bags fitted to bow and stern
compartments provide essential buoyancy
by displacing water that would otherwise
flood the kayak in the event of a hull
breach, or hatch or bulkhead failure.
• Preventing a damaged kayak’s cargo
compartments from flooding allows
the boat to retain its primary handling
characteristics instead of wallowing horribly
or even sinking to a vertical position.
• Float bags provide essential buoyancy,
yet add very little additional weight.
• By displacing water that would
otherwise fill a compromised boat, float
bags allow a kayaker to paddle to safety
without the need for immediate repairs, wet
exits or rescues.
• Keeping water out of the hatches
allows conventional (fast) rescues to be
performed.
• Float bags can be transferred to another
kayak if needed (such as when/if a partner’s
boat develops a significant leak miles from
home).
Keep in mind that trying to inflate a float
bag in order to displace water from a flooded
 The ancient
Float bags
ibis

kayak does not work, and requires far more A cracked composite.
pressure to inflate than can be generated by
mouth.
• Float bags can be inflated or deflated
depending on cargo capacity requirements.

Photo by Alex Matthews

Photo by Nick Castro

For instance, when only a few items are
stowed in a hatch, a bag can be inflated to
securely hold gear in place, preventing it
from rattling around. A crack in a poly kayak.
• Large float bags easily adapt to fit a
wide variety of different kayaks.
With no added buoyancy, if the crack How a smash differs from a crack in a composite.
in your boat is large enough, the distance
to shore is great enough, or conditions
are gnarly enough, you may have to
abandon your kayak. And you may not
be able to retrieve it again. Ever. From
that perspective, a set of float bags is very
inexpensive insurance indeed.
<
Alex Matthews is the author of “Sea Kayaking

Photo by Nick Castro

Rough Waters” available at
www.helipress.com. More of Alex’s Skillset
articles plus other skills columns can be read
online at on our Skills page at
www.coastandkayak.com/Articles_skills.html

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SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 49

 Starting Out

Gary Doran shows the

fundamentals of the
side entry: gripping
the cockpit combing
and paddle with one
hand, resting the
other on the paddle
shaft then gently
lowering yourself into
the kayak.

Take a side seat

N If you’re looking for a bit of
ew kayakers may find
simply getting into a kayak one of
the great early challenges. Lacking
any support, a kayak on water is extremely extra stability when stepping
tippy. Add the weight and instability of a
person settling down, plus the movement
of water from waves, wind and current, and
into your kayak, the side entry is
you have the makings for a wet mishap – or
at the very least, an ungainly entry.
worth a try.
The side entry takes care of one of the start. The water should be deep enough
This new series for beginners is
greatest elements of risk when entering supported by video. Click here online.
so you won’t bottom out when seated. If
a kayak: the need to maintain your center do you bottom out, your launch will be
of gravity. Stability is created by using the subtleties of learning the side entry. Here considerably more difficult. Using the beach
paddle as the equivalent of an outrigger. are some points to consider, courtesy of for stability might also backfire. The stern
Coast&Kayak Magazine teamed up with Gary. of the boat is pointed, and so becomes
Ocean River Sports kayak instructor Gary • Start by making sure your boat is quite tippy with the weight of a person in
Doran for a day at the beach to show the completely immersed in water before you the cockpit.

1 Grab the paddle and cockpit coaming with

one hand and the paddle shaft with another. 2 Place most of your weight on the kayak, using
the blade for support. 3 Place your first leg inside the cockpit,
centering yourself on the kayak.

50 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011

Coast&Kayak Magazine with guest instructor Gary Doran The side entry

• Point your bow into any oncoming Instruction/Education

waves, but angle your kayak about 45
degrees toward the beach. This helps the
bow pierce the waves and also makes the
kayak more stable as your paddle will be
sitting in more shallow water when used as
the brace.
• Set up the paddle shaft as an outrigger
by gripping it behind you with your hand
along with the cockpit coaming. Place your
other hand on the paddle shaft. This gives
a well-supported boat in the one direction,
making tipping very unlikely.
• Place the paddle with the power
face up so it forms a nice contour on the
bottom and removes stress from the blade
by adding it to the stronger shaft.
• Put most of your weight on your
kayak. “If you’re sitting on the paddle
itself you could actually break the paddle,
although it’s pretty rare,” Gary says. “The
paddle is meant to give you some support,
but you don’t want to put all your weight on
the paddle.”
• If the waves are strong you can point
the bow directly into the waves, but at a
cost: your paddle shaft is going to be out in
deeper water, making it trickier to support
yourself.
4 When moving your second leg in you are
at your most vulnerable, no longer on the
ground and with a high center of gravity that
makes the boat particularly unstable.
5 With both legs inside the kayak you can lower
yourself onto the seat.
Kayak Academy (Seattle)
Experience IS Necessary! Since 1991, the Kayak
Academy has been providing the best sea kayak
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Phone: 206.527.1825 or toll-free 866.306.1825
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West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training. Quality
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Email: info@hooksumschool.com
W W W. N I C . B C . C A

• Once in the water paddle away from

shore a short distance to escape any waves
or to avoid drifting onto shore while you
secure your sprayskirt. Then you are ready
to paddle away and enjoy your day!
<
Gary Doran is the head instructor with
Ocean River Sports in Victoria BC, a Paddle
Canada Level 3 instructor trainer and a Sea
Kayak Guides Alliance of BC guide trainer.
Thanks to Gary and Brian Henry at Ocean 6 Once inside you can swing your paddle around
then move into deeper water to attach your
River for their assistance with this article. sprayskirt.

Sometimes it’s a
canoe
by
outrigger
egrometer fine line between
work & play.
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your heart’s North Island College offers certificate and
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doing what you really love.
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Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a
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SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 51

 Fishing Angles
Finding the thermocline is the key to summer fishing success
in lakes, where the sub-surface low/high oxygen stratification
will show up on most fish finders.
I
n the summer months,
water temperature is a key factor when
trying to locate gamefish, let alone
catch them. As with the anglers who pursue
them in the sultry dog days of summer, fish
attempt to be comfortable this time of year,
and that often means finding the coolest
water in a particular lake, reservoir or river
system.
Most freshwater gamefish prefer cool
water over warm for two reasons: it keeps
them in a more comfortable temperature,
plus cooler water contains more oxygen
than warm water.
Typically, cooler water is found in the
deeper parts of a particular body of water.
But simply drifting your kayak over the
deepest part of the lake and dropping your
baits into the depths below this time of year
may “net” you nothing.
That’s because by mid-summer, a
thermocline typically sets up in most lakes.
Simply stated, most inland water-bodies
stratify into layers, a process called “turning
over,” with the warmer water rising to the
top and the colder water remaining below.
The thermocline is the thin, transitional area
52 COAST&KAYAK Magazine
between the relatively warmer water level
and the much colder bottom layer. If you’ve
ever jumped into the water this time of
year and gone down far enough to suddenly
enter much colder water, you have passed
through the thermocline. It can set up six
feet down or as deep as 60 feet, depending
on the lake, the atmospheric conditions and
other factors.
Normally, fish seeking cool water would
rush into this lower, colder zone. The
problem is, water below the thermocline has
very little oxygen. That’s why on your sonar
you may see fish hanging out at a particular
depth and no deeper. These fish are seeking
the deepest, coolest water they can in the
oxygenated, upper layer without going
below the thermocline.
They are also following the baitfish that
are doing the same thing. If you can locate
the thermocline, which shows up as a line
or shadow on most good sonars, you want
to fish just above it to catch those fish that
are keeping their cool in the deepest waters
that still hold oxygen. You can often spot
the thermocline, the schools of baitfish and
the “hooks” of gamefish all at once on your
SUMMER 2011
by Dan Armitage
sonar screen.
When that happens:
• Note the depth of the thermocline and
set slip bobbers to drop and suspend live
baits to just above that depth; or
• Troll lures that you know run at that
depth; or
• Vertically jig down to the level just
above the cold-water mark.
Another good tactic is to note the depth
of the thermocline, which should remain
relatively constant over most of the lake
(although it can fluctuate, so check it out
as you move to different areas) and paddle
towards shore to find places where there is
structure in the depth zone just above the
thermocline. The combination of fish-
holding cover and the comfortable climate
of the cool-yet-oxygen rich water just above
it can concentrate fish and offer some
fantastic summer angling action.
<
Dan Armitage is a boating, fishing and
travel writer based in the Midwest. He is
a licensed (USCG Master) captain, hosts a
syndicated radio show, and presents kayak
fishing seminars at boat shows.
 Kayak fishing

u Preferred temperatures by species

Water temperature tolerance levels vary among gamefish species.
Some of our favorite targets are genetically acclimated to cooler
water, including yellow perch, trout, walleye, muskellunge and
northern pike. That’s why these fish are usually found in more
northern latitudes where waters typically remain cooler – even in
August -- than waters to the
south. The farther south you go,
the more heat-tolerant species
you will find, such as largemouth
bass, sunfish, carp and catfish,
which are genetically accustomed
to thrive in warmer waters.
Here are some of the
• Channel catfish have been shown to prefer waters in a wide
range of water temperatures, remaining comfortable in waters
fluctuating anywhere from 60° to 90°F (15-32°C). But cats have
their preferred activity temperatures too, and seem to feed most
when surrounding waters are in the area of 78°F (25.5°C).
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52 Esplanade
Finding cooler, deep water is
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during the warm months. are most active in waters that are
between 55° to 74°F (12-23°C),
with peak feeding taking place in waters that are 62° to 69°F (16-
20°C).
• Smallmouth bass prefer to feed in waters between 68° and
70°F (20-21°C), and thrive in the range of 60° to 74°F (15-23°C).
• Largemouth bass can remain comfortable in waters up to
90°F (32°C), and prefer those that fluctuate between 70° and 85°F
(21-30°C). But because waters above the mid-80°s F (30°C) often
don’t hold much oxygen, the bass can be lethargic when in the
upper zone of their tolerance range. Some bass experts say that
largemouth’s peak feeding activity takes place in waters that are in
the area of 73°F (23°C).
• Crappies prefer waters in the 60° to 75°F range (15-24°C) and
feed most heavily when the surrounding water temps are in the 69°
to 72°F range (20-22°C).

SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 53

 Vignettes
Chuck Graham photo

Safety inspection
An endangered Channel Islands fox gives a kayak fleet the once over. The endangered tiny fox has gone through a population decline and was
classified as endangered in 2004, with a subsequent breeding program showing great progress in repopulating the species. So no doubt the
Channel Islands will see more inspections like this in the future.

THE ORIGINAL BRITISH SEA KAYAK

www.valleyseakayaks.com

54 COAST&KAYAK Magazine SUMMER 2011

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SUMMER 2011 COAST&KAYAK Magazine 55