COSMETOLOGY

Cosmetology (Beauty Culture) offers the opportunity for a lifetime career in one of our largest
and most respected industries. After completing a comparatively short training period, you will be
prepared to embark upon a career that can offer you a good income for your entire working life.
Opportunities for men and women are for greater in the field of cosmetology than in any other
field comparable in preparation time and expense. Cosmetology offers a lucrative, exciting, and growth
– filled future for the alert and ambitious individual. Furthermore, the practice of cosmetology offers the
rare opportunity for a career filled with personal pleasure and satisfaction. It appeals to the artistic and
aesthetic needs of the cosmetologist. It encourages the free exercise of her personal talent and ability.
And most important, it combines job satisfaction with financial stability.
To a young woman, cosmetology presets a vocation that can be tailored to fit into the pattern of
her private life. When she is ready to raise a family, she can leave, and then return at a later date to
continue her career. She can maintain a normal married family life and work at her own convenience.
The future for the cosmetology industry appears to be most promising. New technique, new
products, and new opportunities appear everyday. The number of patrons who visit beauty salons and
the amount of money they spend for services are constantly increasing.
With reference to your own future, these seem to be no limit to the progress you can make or to
the amount of money you can earn. There is no other industry with such a constant demand for
qualified, well – trained school graduates. Nor is there any other industry that offers comparable
opportunities for an individual to start his or her own business.
Cosmetology is as exciting as it is profitable. It represents to many men and women a profession
that will bring much happiness and financial independence.

Note: TO BE SUCCESSFUL – you must learn to do the little things that will make patrons like you, in
addition to being well – groomed and proficient in your work.

Terms Used:
The following terms all refer to the professional performing services in a beauty salon:
1. Cosmetologist 7. Hairdresser
2. Practitioner 8. Operator
3. Artisan 9. Beautician
4. Hairstylist “The preferred term is
5. Stylist “Cosmetologist"

6. Technicians
The practice of enhancing the appearance of beauty salon patron is referred to as Cosmetology,
Beauty Culture, Hairdressing and Hairstyling.
The premise where this enhancement takes place is called a Beauty Parlor, Beauty Salon, and
Beauty Shop.

Unit I. Hygiene, God Grooming, and Personality Development

Good Health – is required for the successful practice of Cosmetology. Without it, one cannot
work efficiently nor enjoy the pleasures of life. With it, constructive work and happiness are
made possible.

In keeping with the profession, Cosmetologist should be living examples of good health, so that
they will increase their value to themselves, to their employees, and to the community.
Hygiene is a science that deals with healthful living. It includes both personal and public
hygiene.
Personal Hygiene concerns the intelligent care taken by the individual to preserve health by
following the rules of healthful living such as:

1. Cleanliness
2. Oral Hygiene 5. Relaxation 8. Wholesome
3. Good Posture 6. Adequate Sleep Thoughts
4. Sufficient Exercise 7. Balanced Diet

Public Hygiene, or sanitation, refers to the steps taken by the government to promote public
health. The government takes the responsibility of protecting the health, safety, and welfare of
its citizens, by seeing that they are provided with:
1. Pure air 3. Pure water 5. Control of disease
2. Pure food 4. Adequate sewerage 6. Adequate medical
facilities

Beauty problems also may become health problem. A clear complexion, fine – textured skin,
sparkling eyes and luxuriant hair may project a healthy condition. A dull, sallow complexion
maybe indicative of:
1. Sluggish circulation 3. Irregular elimination 5. Poor health
 2. lack of fresh air 4. Improper diet

Hygiene Rules
To improve your health and appearance, you must follow hygienic rules of living:
1. Eating well – balanced meal at regular intervals and drinking sufficient amount of
water will keep the digestive system functioning properly and produce better
elimination. However, one of the basic causes of poor health is a faulty diet. Avoid
such poor eating habits as;
Not eating enough of the right kinds of food, this may lead to loss of weight, lower resistance, or
nutritional disease.
Overeating, which taxes the digestive system and organs of elimination.
2. Exercise and recreation, in the form of running, walking, dancing, sports and gym
activities develop endurance and keep the body fit. Benefits derive from regular
exercise are;
An improvement in the body’s absorption of food.
An improvement in blood circulation.
A larger supply of life – giving oxygen to the body, due to the increased action of the heart and lungs.
3. Moderate amount of sunshine add vigor and help to supply the body with essential
Vitamin D.
4. Fatigue, caused by work, exercise, mental effort, or worry, should always be followed
by a period of rest or relaxation. Overexertion and lack of rest tend to drain the body
of its vitality. Therefore, an adequate amount of sleep, not less than seven hours is
necessary. This allows the body to recover from the fatigue of the day’s activities and
replenish itself with renewed energy.
Healthy Thoughts:
The mind and body operate as a unit. A healthy body and mind contribute to a good life.
A healthy body is one in which all organs perform their functions normally. Healthy thoughts can
be cultivated by self – control.
Thoughts and emotions influence bodily activities. A thought may cause face to turn red
and increase the heart action. It may either stimulate or depress the function of the body. Strong
emotions, such as worry and fear, have a harmful effect on the heart, arteries and glands.
Depression weakens the function of the organs, thereby lowering the resistance of the body
disease.

A well – groomed Female Cosmetologist is one of the best advertisements of effectively

run salon.
To keep appearance at its best, you must give daily attention to all-important details that
make for a clean, neat and charming personality:
1. Daily Bath and Deodorant
Keep the body cleansed and odor free by taking a daily shower or bath and by
using an underarm deodorant.
2. Oral Hygiene
Clean and brush the teeth regularly. Use mouth wash to sweeten the breath.
3. Hairstyle
Keep the hair clean and lustrous. Wear an attractive and functional hairstyle at all
times.
4. Clothes
Wear a uniform that is spotlessly clean, neat, and properly fitted. Wear fresh
underclothes.
5. Facial Makeup
Use the correct cosmetics to match your skin tone. Keep your make up fresh,
eyebrows and lips well – shaped.
6. Hands and Nails
Keep your hands clean and smooth, and always have your nails well – manicured.
7. Jewelry
Avoid gaudy jewelry. A wristwatch is permissible.
8. Shoes and Hosiery
Wear low – heeled shoes that are well – fitted and sensibly styled. Keep shoes
shined and in good condition. Wear clean hose. Watch out for hosiery runs and
wrinkles.
Many beauty salon owners consider appearance, visual poise and personality to be
as important as technical knowledge and manual skills.

A well – groomed Male Cosmetologist

Proper grooming is also important to male cosmetologist. Give careful attention to
cleanliness of uniform, skin, hair, hands and teeth. Keep beard and mustache neatly trimmed.
Keep breath sweet with mouthwash. Keep your body free of odor by taking a shower or bath,
daily, and by using underarm deodorant.

Your personality is the key to a successful career in Cosmetology. Personality is defined

as the outward reflection of your inner feelings, habits, attitudes and values. It is the total effect
you have on other people.
Unit II. Manicuring and Pedicuring

The word manicure (man’i – kur) is derived from the Latin “manus” (hand) and “cura”
(care), which means the care of the hands and nails. The purpose of a manicure is to improve
the appearance of the hands and nails.
The ancient regarded long, polished, and colored fingernails as a mask of distinction
between aristocrats and common laborers. Manicure, once considered a luxury for the few, is
now a service used by the general public. In fact, many well – groomed women and men use the
services of a professional manicurist.
Manicure is the artful care of the hands ands nails. It helps to improve the appearance
and the health of the nails. Having a manicured hands need the services of a manicurist who is
capable of giving the best service. A manicurist, to be successful in this field of work needs to
posses the qualification that will help her in winning more clientele
One of the requirements a manicurist must posses s a thorough knowledge about the materials,
implements and equipments used in manicuring. She must also know the proper care and use of
the different materials and implements.
Definition of terms:
1. Equipments- are articles used in manicuring that are more or less durable or
permanent. Usually, they are left in the manicuring shop because
they are difficult to transport from one place to another.
Ex.
1.1 Body Lounge - is usually vinyl-covered chair preferably in a reclining
position for clients. It provides proper body support.
1.2 Manicuring Stool - is a backless chair where the operator sits.
1.3 Manicuring Table - is a table specially designed for manicuring. Usually it has a drawer
for storing materials. It is often constructed with ball casters for easy mobility, and
conveniently fits across standard 16 by 24 inches.
1.4 Manicuring Lamp - is a lamp which is attached to the manicuring table. It provides
light and also heat for softening the skin cosmetics.
1.5 Hot-Oil Heater - is an electrical device which heats lubricating lotion for conditioning
treatment.
1.6 Manicuring Tray - is a container that holds the necessary cosmetics and other
supplies.
1.7 Wet Sanitizer - is a container to contain or hold sterile cotton and 70% alcohol.
1.8 Finger Bowl - (plastic or glass) is a container used for holding warm soapy water for
finger bath.

2. Materials- refer to cosmetics and other supplies that are consumable and therefore, are
replaced from time to time.
In cosmetology, materials include everything which are being replenished after using
because they may either remain or stick on the nails and skin or are absorbed by the air or
are simply thrown away.
Ex.
2.1 Cosmetics- nail and hand cosmetics vary in their composition and usage according
to the purposes they serve.
2.1.1 Nail polish remover- contains organic solvents and is used to dissolve old
polish on nails. To offset the drying action of the solvent, oil may be present
in the nail polish remover.
2.1.2 Cuticle Oil- is a mixture of fats and waxes containing lanolin or petroleum
base. It is used in hot oil treatments, and to soften and lubricate the skin
around the nails.
2.1.3 Cuticle Creams- are mixture of fats and waxes (lanolin, cocoa butter,
beeswax, etc) used to prevent or correct brittle nails and dry cuticle.
2.1.4 Cuticle remover or solvents- may contain 2-5% sodium or potassium
hydroxide plus glycerin. After the cuticle is softened with this liquid, it can
be removed easily.
2.1.5 Liquid nail polish or lacquer- is used to color or gloss the nail. It is a
solution of nitro- cellulose in volatile solvent, such as amyl acetate, together
with plasticizer (castor oil), which prevents too rapid drying. Also present are
resin and color.
2.1.6 Nail polish thinner - containing acetone or other solvent, is used to thin
out
nail polish when it has thickened.
2.1.7 A base coat is a liquid product applied before the liquid nail polish. With
this application, the nail polish adheres readily to the nail surface. It also
forms hard gloss, which prevents the color in the nail polish from staining the
nail tissue.
2.1.8 A top coat, or sealer, is a liquid applied over the nail polish. This product
protects the polish and minimize its chipping or cracking.
2.1.9 Nail strengtheners are designed to prevent the nails from splitting or
peeling. They are applied to the tips of the nails only. They are never applied
 over polish. The nails must usually contains formaldehyde. Cuticle shields are
used during the application of nail strengtheners to prevent the product from
touching the skin or cuticle.
2.1.10 Alum solution is a substance containing aluminum, potassium, or
ammonium sulfate. Used to contract the skin tissue, it aids in controlling
bleeding when skin tissue is broken or cut. In stick form, it may be called a
styptic pencil.

Other Supplies Needed

1. Soap (liquid or any form) for finger bath.
2. Warm water for finger bath
3. Sanitized towel for each patron (preferably white towel)
4. Cleaning tissue for use whenever necessary.
5. Antiseptic for use in finger bath, and to avoid infection when minor injuries to tissues
surrounding the nail occur.
6. Disinfectant for use when sanitizing implements, and for disinfecting the manicuring
table.
7. 70% alcohol is used in a jar sanitizer where implements are kept during manicure. It is
also used to sanitize a patrons fingers before manicure.
8. Emery board for shaping and smoothing the free edge of nail.

The Correct Procedure in Manicuring

1. Preparation
Prepare manicuring table as previously outlined
Seat clients
Wash your hands
Examine client’s hands
Sanitize clients hands
2. Procedure
Remove old polish (start with the little finger of left hand).
Shape the nails (starting with the little finger of the left hand working towards the
thumb).
Soften cuticle after filing / shaping the nail of the left hand, file the nails of the right hand.
Then immerse the left hand into the finger bowl (soap bath) to permit the softening
of the cuticle. Remove the left hand from the finger bowl.
Dry fingertips using towel.
Apply cuticle remover (solvent). Use orange wood stick.
Loosen cuticle, use spoon edge of cuticle pusher.
Note: when using the cuticle and orange wood stick, avoid too much pressure so
that live tissue at the root of the nail will not be injured.
Clean under the free edge. Use a cotton – tipped orange wood stick, dipped in soapy
water. To clean under free edge, working from the center toward each side;
employing gentle pressure.
Trim cuticle. Using nippers to remove dead cuticle.
Bleach under free edge (optional).
Apply cuticle oil or cream, and massage with a rotary movement.
Remove right hand from the finger bowl and work in step 4 – 10.
Clean nails. Brush using a downward movement.
Dry hands and nails thoroughly.

3. Completion
Re – examine nails and cuticle for defects. Remove remaining pieces of cuticle.
If required, repair split or broken nails.
Apply base coat, allow to dry.
Apply liquid polish.
Remove excess polish.
Apply top or seal coat.
Note: Top coat application is usually eliminated when liquid polish is sprayed with
enamel dryer.
Apply hand lotion.
4. Final Cleanup
Sanitize used manicuring implements and place it in their proper places. Clean and
wipe tables. Wash and dry your hands.

Shape of Nails
 1. Oval Nail – is the ideal nail shape and can be styled by either covering the entire
nail with polish, leaving the free edge white or leaving the half moon white at the
case of the nail.
2. Slender tapering (pointed) nail – is well suited for the thin delicate hand. The
nail should be tapered somewhat longer that usual to enhance the slender
appearance of the hand.
3. Square or rectangular nail – should extend only slightly past the tip of the finger
with the nail tip rounded off. The entire nail maybe polished with a slight half moon
left at the base, and a white margin left at the sides of the nail.
4. Clubbed (round nail) – should be slightly tapered and extend just a bit past the
tip of the finger. The entire nail should be polished with a thin margin left at the
side.

Types of Manicure
1. Electric manicure – is given with the aid of a portable device operated by a small
motor. It uses a variety of attachment which may include an emery wheel, cuticle
pusher, cuticle brush, and buffer.
2. Oil manicure – is beneficial for ridged and brittle nails, and for dry cuticles. It also
improves the hands by leaving the skin soft and pliable.
3. Men’s manicure – men usually prefer a conservative manicure.
4. Booth manicure – is one that is given in the booth and not at the manicuring table. It
is usually given while a client is receiving another service – for example, while she is
having a haircut or styled.

Safety Rules in Manicuring:

Observing safety rules in manicuring can be of great help in preventing accidents and
injury to the client or manicurist. The following safety rules will guide the manicurist in
protecting the client:
1. Keep all containers covered and labeled.
2. Hold or move containers with dry hands.
3. Handle sharp – pointed implements carefully, and avoid dropping them.
4. Dull over – sharpened cutting edges of sharp implements with an emery board.
5. Bevel a sharp nail edge with an emery board.
6. Do not file too deeply into nail corners.
7. Do not use a sharp, pointed implement to cleanse under the nail.
8. Avoid excessive friction in nail buffing (where permitted).
9. Apply an antiseptic immediately if the skin is accidentally cut.
10. Apply styptic powder or alum solution to stop the bleeding from a small cut. Never
use a styptic pencil.
11. Avoid pushing the cuticle back too far.
12. Avoid too much pressure at the base of the nail.
13. Do not work on a nail when the surrounding skin is inflamed or contains pus.

Unit III. Facial Care and Facial Make – up

Receiving a professional facial is one of the most enjoyable and relaxing services
available to the beauty salon patron. Those individuals who have participated in this very restful
or stimulating experience do not hesitate to return to repeat facials. When received as a regular
periodic service, facial’s result is very noticeable improvement in the patron’s skin tone, texture
of skin and appearance.
Facial care or treatments can be developed into a profitable service. The patron’s hairstyle may
be beautiful, but if the face it frame’s is covered with unattractive skin, the effect of the hairstyle
will be lost.
Note: The cosmetologist does not treat skin disease however, she must be able to
recognize the various skin ailments that she cannot attempt to treat, she must also know when
to advice the patron to see her doctor for treatment.

Facial treatments has two categories:

1. Preservative – maintaining the health of the facial skin by using correct cleansing methods
increasing circulation, relaxing the nerves, and activating the skin glands and metabolism
through massage.
2. Corrective – correcting some facial skin conditions, such as dryness, oiliness, blackheads,
aging lines, and minor conditions of acne.

Facial treatments and care are beneficial for:

1. Cleansing the skin.
2. Increasing circulation.
3. Activating glandular activity.
4. Relaxing the nerves.
5. Maintaining muscle tone.
6. Strengthening weak muscle tissue.
 7. Correcting certain skin diseases.
8. Helping prevent the formation of wrinkles and aging lines.
9. Softening and improving skin texture and complexion.
10. Giving a youthful feeling.

Reminders and Hints in Facial Massage

1. Try to get the patron to relax.
2. Provide quiet atmosphere; speak softly.
3. Maintain a clean, orderly arrangement of supplies.
4. Follow systematic procedure.
5. If your hands are cold, warm them before touching the patron.
6. Make sure your fingernails are not too long or pointed.

Facial Make – up
Makeup is applied to the face for the purpose of improving its appearance. The main
objective of a makeup application is to emphasize good facial features and to minimize defects.
There is no fixed pattern for applying facial makeup. In practicing this art, the cosmetologist
must carefully analyze each patron’s face and consider her individual needs.
The professional who applies makeup must take into consideration the structure of the patron’s
face, the inter – relationships of color, and the basic principles of optical illusions. Makeup is used
to create shadow and light, and to develop the illusion of facial beauty. The appearance of
beauty can be achieved by properly coordinating facial makeup, hairstyle and clothing colors.

Cosmetics used in Facial Makeup

1. Foundation for makeup
Probably no single item of makeup is as important as the foundation. It’s proper
application creates a pleasing facial contour, evens out skin color, provides a base for
color harmony, conceals minor imperfections, and protects the skin from soil, wind and
weather.
Skin tones determine the color of the foundation base. Skin tones are generally
classified as follows: white, ivory, cream, pink, florid, sallow, olive, tan, brown, and ebony.
Choice of foundation color. In choosing the foundation color for light skin, a shade
darker than the natural skin tone is usually desirable to impart color. When the skin is
dark, match the foundation to the natural skin tone. Selecting the correct foundation color
is of extreme importance to the success of the entire makeup application.
For either a sallow or pale skin tone, a rosy foundation and powder generally will
give the desired glow.
For a florid skin tone, a beige foundation and powder generally will give the desired
glow.
For all other skin tones (fair, medium or dark), select the depth of foundation and
powder to blend with the lightness or darkness of the skin tone.
Note: Too light foundation makes the face look pale and artificial. A little foundation goes
a long way. Using too much of it is undesirable as it gives the skin a pasty appearance.
Selecting the right foundation. Liquid and cream foundation are the most widely
used, and they give a slight sheen to the skin. Water based or cake foundations give a
matte (dull) finish.
a. Cream foundation gives the most natural look and a longer lasting
makeup. It is formulated for both dry and oily skin types.
b. Liquid (lotion) foundation is a color suspended in an emulsion of
delicate light oil. For quick and effective blending, apply it on one skin
area at a time using long, smooth strokes.
c. Cake foundation adds color, gives a smooth and velvety look, and
helps conceal minor skin discoloration. It is applied with a moistened pad.
Cake foundation is effective for an oily skin. To prevent drying, apply a
moisturizer to dry skin before applying cake makeup.
Skin blemishes can be hidden with the aid of:
1. Stick foundation. Makeup in stick form is particularly useful in
the covering or masking of minor skin blemishes. The advantage of a stick
is that it can easily be applied to a small blemish to give a relatively thick
film coverage.
2. Blemish masking creams are similar to the pigmented
foundation creams.
2. Face Powders
Face powders improve the overall attractiveness of the skin by concealing skin blemishes,
toning down excessive coloring, gloss, or shine, enhancing the natural skin coloring, and adding
delicate scent. Modern powders make the skin soft and velvety to touch.
Generally, the selected shade of face powder maybe the same shade as the foundation,
or a shade lighter. However a powder that is darker than the foundation maybe used when
deeper color is desired.
Translucent (colorless) powder blends with all foundations and will not turn color
when applied.
3. Cheek Colors and Lip Colors
 The purpose of cheek color is to give a soft glow of color to the face. It aids in creating
better facial contours by minimizing imperfect features.
Cheek color should coordinate with, or be the same color as, the lip color. However, cheek
color that is a shade lighter than the lip color generally is more desirable than a darker shade.
The color on the cheeks should be less vivid in broad daylight than in artificial light. Bright colors
call attention to that area of the face and the makeup begins to look artificial.
There are four types of cheek color: liquid, cream, dry and brush on.
1. Liquid cheek color blends well and is suitable for all skin types. Apply it over the foundation
before powdering the face.
2. Cream cheek color closely resembles pigmented foundation creams and cream makeup.
Cream cheek color is generally preferred for dry and normal skin.
3. Dry (compact) cheek color imparts a matte (dull) finish. If well – formulated, it blends
harmoniously with the facial makeup.
4. Brush – on powdered cheek color is easy to use and is applied with a special cosmetic
brush.

Lip color adds color to the lips and helps to correct the shape of the mouth. Artistry and a
keen sense of fashion are essential in selecting the appropriate lip color, shade, or tint. Also to
be considered is whether the prevailing fashion calls for a light or dark lip color, and whether a
thin or thick film application is desirable.
The basic tints and shades of lip color are blue – red, yellow – red, orange, and true red. All
shades and tints of lip color originate from these basic colors.
4. Eye Makeup
Eye colors and shadows are produced in pastel blue, pastel turquoise, lavender – mauve,
grey, blue, pastel green, metallic silver, metallic blue, and shades of chestnut, beige, and
brown.
Eye color or shadow, when applied to the upper lids, compliments the eyes by making
them look brighter and more expressive. As a general rule, the eye color or shadow should
match the color of the eyes, or be a shade lighter. The eye color or shadow should be more
subtle for daytime wear, whereas the colors or shadows for evening wear can be more
sophisticated.
Eye colors and shadows are available in stick, cream and cake form.
Eyeliners are intended for application to the eyelids, close to the lashes. There are made
in shading tones, and may either be in pencil, cake, or liquid form, packaged with a small semi
– stiff applicator brush. Color shades correspond to those for eye colors and shadows, but they
are more intense. The eyeliner should be the same color as the mascara.
Eyebrow pencils are used to modify the natural outline of the eyebrows, usually after
tweezing, and to heighten the effect. They maybe used to darken the eyebrows, to fill in where
the brow is thin or devoid of hair, and to correct misshapen brows. Eyebrow pencils cannot be
sanitized. Brush – on brow color comes in powdered form and is applied with a brush. Cream,
liquid and cake eyebrow colorings are other types that may be applied with a brush.
Mascara is available in liquid, cake, and cream form. Mascara colors come in black,
brown, and a variety of other tints and shades. When applied to the eyelashes, mascara makes
them look fuller and longer. It also can be used to darken the eyebrows. Mascara and eyebrow
pencil colors should be the same or color coordinated. Usually, the lashes look better when
darker than the brows.

MAKEUP FOR FACIAL TYPES

1. Oval – the oval facial type is generally accepted as the perfect face. The contours and
proportions of the oval face form the basis for modifying all other facial types.
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: Apply a cheek color on cheekbones in a triangular fashion. Blend color upward and
outward toward the temples, no higher than the outer corners of the eyes.
Eyebrows: They should frame the eyes in a soft, natural arch.
Lips: Accentuate the natural bowline of the upper lip. Outline the lower lip so that it appears
slightly fuller than the upper lip.
2. Pear Shape
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: Apply color to the cheekbones and extend the color downward along the jawline to
create the illusion of slenderness. Shading or a darker foundation can be applied
to a wide jawline or double chin to slenderize the width of the face.
Eyebrows: They should retain a natural slightly high arch.
Lips: Apply lip color to accent both the upper and lower lips.
3. Long
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: Apply cheek color on cheekbones no higher than the outer corners of the eyes and no
lower than the tip of the nose.
A shading cosmetic or darker foundation can be applied to the chin and forehead to create the
illusion of width to the face.
Eyebrows: They should retain a natural arch.
Lips: Apply lip color to give the illusion of fullness and width to the lips.
4. Square
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: Apply color to the cheekbones, extending the color downward on the jawline. A shading
cosmetic or a darker foundation can be applied to the heavy area of the jaw to
create the illusion of slenderness.
Eyebrows: A rounded arch will create softness which detracts from the squareness of the
jawline.
Lips: Apply lip color to create fullness and width to offset the squareness of the jawline.
5. Heart Shape
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: To minimize the width of the forehead and cheeks, apply cheek color high on the
cheekbones, extending the color to the temples. A shading cosmetic or darker
foundation can be applied to the forehead to minimize its width.
Eyebrows: They should not be spaced widely. Allow about the length of one eye between
brows. Arch high, but retain a natural look.
Lips: When applying lip color, follow the natural contour of the lips.
6. Round
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: The round face will appear longer and narrower if cheek color is applied
high on the cheekbones, extending towards the temples. The color can be blended
downward along the sides of the face at least ½ “ (1.25 cm.) outward from the
nose. A shading cosmetic or darker foundation can be applied to the jawline under
the cheeks to create the illusion of slenderness.
Eyebrows: Follow the natural contour of the eyebrow, avoiding a high rounded
arch.
Lips: Outline lips and fill in color, avoiding excessive fullness.

7. Diamond
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: Apply color on the heavy area of the cheekbones. Extend the color no higher than the
outer corners of the eyes and no lower than the wider part of the face. A lighter
foundation can be applied to the chin and forehead to create the illusion of width
or fullness to the face.
Lips: Follow the natural contour of the lips, but avoid exaggerated fullness.
CORRECTIVE MAKEUP
Facial features can be accented with proper highlighting, subdued with correct shadowing
or shading, and balanced with proper hairstyle.
A basic rule for the application of makeup is that highlighting emphasizes a feature, while
shadowing minimizes it.
A highlight is produced when a lighter shade than the original foundation is used on a
particular part of the face. Highlights bring out the parts of the facial featured to be emphasized.
A shadow is formed when the foundation used is darker than the original one. The use of
shadows (dark colors and shades) minimizes or subdues prominent features and makes them
less noticeable.
When two tones of foundations are used, care must be taken to blend them properly so
that there will be no line of demarcation.
Color harmony can be achieved when the make up tones flatter the color of the eyes,
hair and skin. To determine what is best for each patron, the makeup artist must:
1. Analyze the color of the patron’s skin, hair, and eyes.
2. Examine the front and profile views of her facial features.
3. Select and apply those makeup highlights and / or shades that will produce the desired
corrective results.

EYEBROW ARCHING
Correctly shaped eyebrows have a marked effect on the beauty and contour of the face.
The natural arch of the eyebrow follows the bony structure, or the curved line of the orbit
(eye socket). Most people have a disorderly growth of hairs both above and below the natural
line. These hairs should be removed, to give a clean – cut and attractive appearance.
Because of the sensitivity of the skin around the eyes, some patrons cannot tolerate
tweezing. For them, shaving or a wax depilatory may be used.

MAKEUP COSMETICS
 Cosmetics Forms Uses
Available
SAFETY Takes shine from face.
PRECAUTIONS: Face Cake or powder Helps
powder makeup to set. Gives 1. Wash
face matte and
(dull) finish. sanitize
Foundation Cream, liquid, Base for makeup. your hands
(Clear or cake before and
Tinted) after a
Lip color Stick, cream, Gives color and sheen to makeup
(Lipstick) liquid lips.
Cheek color Cream, dry, Gives cheeks soft, warm
(Rouge) liquid glow.
Brush - on
Mascara Cake, cream, Adds color to eyelashes.
liquid
Eyeliner Cake, pencil, Emphasizes eyes.
liquid
Eye Stick, cream, Adds color to eyelids.
shadow cake
Defines eyebrows by
Eyebrow Pencil or powder drawing fine lines
color In eyebrow area,
Astringent
Skin Liquid or cream Closes pores of oily skin.
Freshener
Moisturize Emulsion or Helps retain moisture in
r thick cream the skin.
application, or after touching any object unrelated to the procedure.
2. Properly drape patron (for her protection).
3. Sanitize all brushes after each use.
5. Do not get lotions, antiseptics, astringents, or eye makeup on patron’s eyes.
6. Sharpen eyebrow and eyeliner pencils after each use.
7. Discard all disposable items, such as sponges, after each use.
8. After each use, wash and sanitize all linens that touch patron’s skin.
9. Use spatula to remove creams from containers.
10. Keep fingernails round and smooth, to avoid scratching patron.
11. Use salt shaker type of container for powder.
12. Pour all lotions from bottle containers.
13. Do not apply liquid or cream lip color directly on patron’s lips. Use a brush.
14. Use an antiseptic on tweezed area, to avoid infection.
15. Protect patron’s hair and skin from direct contact with facial hair.

Unit IV. Basic Barbering, Hairstyling, and Hair Treatment

The art and technique of hair shaping or barbering must be mastered by the student of
cosmetology before she can be qualified to work in the better salons. Thorough instructions are
required in the proper way to shape the hair using either regular scissors, thinning shears, or
razor. Instructions must be followed by practice under the guidance of instructor. A good hair
shaping serves as a foundation for beautiful coiffures. The cosmetologist’s education in not
complete until she has acquired the artistic skill and judgment necessary for successful hair
shaping or barbering.
Modern hairstylists are designed to accentuate the patron’s good points while minimizing
her poor features. The cosmetologist must be guided by the patron’s wishes, as well as by what
is best for her personality. In selecting the proper hairstyle, the cosmetologist should take into
consideration the patron’s head shape, facial contour, and hair texture.

Definitions Pertaining to Hair Shaping or Barbering

• Back – Combing: Combing the short hairs of a strand towards the scalp. Other terms used
for back – combing are teasing, ratting, matting, and French lacing.
• Basic hair shaping: Shaping the hair to a length that is not too long nor too short, in order
that it properly fits many different hairstyles.
• Blunt Cutting: Cutting the hair straight off, without tapering.
• Effilating: a French term for slithering.
• Feather edge: When the hair at the nape is shingled in a graceful upward effect and the neck
is cleaned with scissors, razor, or clippers.
• Guideline: A strand of hair at the nape or sides of the head that is cut to a precise length. This
cut strand establishes a guide or line to be followed in shaping the balance of
the head, and helps to establish the general shaping pattern.
• Hair shaping: The process of thinning, tapering, and shortening the hair using comb, scissors,
thinning shears, or razor in order to mold the hair into a becoming shape. Hair
shaping is commonly used for haircutting.
• Hairstyling: Arranging the hair in various attractive shapes or styles. The contour of the face,
shape of the head and the season’s current styles must be considered when
styling hair.
• Hairstylist: One who has the artistic ability to suggest and create an attractive new hair
fashion.
• Layer cutting: Tapering and thinning the hair by dividing it into many layers.
• Natural hairline: When no artificial hairline is created in short hairstyles, the hair at the nape
is left in its natural hairline.
• Neck trim: Cutting and shaping the hair at the nape into a “V”, oval, or round shape, or
shingling the hair into a feather edge effect.
• Razor cutting: The use of the razor in thinning or cutting wet hair.
• Scissor cutting: Shaping the hair with scissors.
• Shingling: Cutting the hair close to the nape with the hair becoming gradually longer toward
the crown, without showing a definite line.
• Slithering: The process used in thinning and tapering the hair at the same time with scissors.
• Tapering: Shortening the hair a graduated effect. Another term used for tapering is
feathering.
• Thinning: Decreasing the thickness of the hair when it is too heavy.
• Trimming or clipping: removing split hair ends or cutting the extreme hair ends of the hair
with the scissors.