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Functions of Interlinings
Interlinings serve two major functions: (1) to produce and
retain the desired aesthetic appearance and (2) to improve
garment performance.
Characteristics of Interlinings
Fibre Content:
Weight:
Interlinings are available in a wide range of weights from
0.4 to 4.0 ounces per square yard. Heavier interlinings
provide more support for heavier; more structured garments
such as coats and suits. Lighter – weight interlinings offer
resiliency and some support, but they may provide a softer
hand. Because the fashion trend in recent years has been to
a softer: less structured look in men’s and women’s
clothing, many newer interlinings are lighter weight.
Fabrication:
Fusible Interlinings:
Fusible interlinings are fabrications coated with some form
of resin or adhesive that serves as a bonding agent to hold
the interlinings to the shell fabric. Substrates may be
wovens, knits or fibre web. Fusible interlinings must be
fused to shell fabric prior to the construction of
components. Fused garment parts have more body, do not
ravel, and are easy to handle in sewing.
Linings:
Linings are materials that increase aesthetics and
performance by supporting and/or enclosing the interiors of
garments or garment components.
Weight:
Weight of lining fabric affects wearing comfort, thermal
comfort, compatibility, opacity, hand, and drapeability.
With synthetic materials such as polyester fiberfill, it is
possible to have high bulk for warmth without heavy
weight.
Fabrication:
Lining fabrications range from the lightest – weight,
balanced, plain – weave fabrics to the bulky quilted or pile
fabrics. Common fabrications found in jacket linings are
satins and twills. These provide slip ease, comfort,
flexibility, durability, and wind resistance with high –
Count and filament yarns. Skirts and slacks are best lined
with balanced plain – weave fabrics due to their flexibility
and strength.
Closures:
Plackets are structural openings that are usually dependent
on mechanical devices called closures to secure openings.
Closures are fasteners, such as zippers, buttons,
buttonholes, snap, elastics, hooks, hook-and-loop tapes, and
other devices used to open, close, and secure garments.
Purpose of Closures:
Closures may be used as single fastening units, in
multiples, or combined with other types of closures or
trims. Closures contribute to garment aesthetics and
performance. The number, type, and placement of closures
are important to garment appearance, fit, comfort,
durability, and care.
Zippers:
Zippers are mechanical slide fasteners. A zipper closes a
placket when two rows of interlocking elements (teeth,
scoops, or coils) are drawn together by a slider. Zippers
allow garments to expand for dressing and to become
smooth and fitted when closed. They may provide closer,
smoother garment fit and accept more seam stress than
buttons, snap, or other closures.
The zipper chain consists of two interlocking stringers of
teeth, scoops, or coils that lock or unlock with the
movement of the slider. Metal chains may be stringer than
continuous coils and are often used in slacks and jeans
where durability and strength are required. Metal teeth,
made of brass, nickel, steel, or zinc, are clamped onto
zipper tapes. During zipper application, metal teeth may be
removed without damaging the tape. This provides a space
for stitching or bar tacking across the zipper.
Functions:
Buttons may be flat, domed, concaved, ball shaped, oblong,
round, square, or irregular. They may be produced in the
shape of objects, animals, toys, or abstract shapes to
complement a style feature. Buttons are often stamped with
logos or symbols to increase differentiation for garment
manufacturers.
Performance:
Functional buttons and buttonholes close plackets, support
other closures, or support other buttons. Closing security
and flatness of plackets depend on button shape and
spacing, and button hole size, structure, and placement.
Performance specifications may include mildew resistance,
clour fastness, heat resistance, strength, launderability, and
dry cleanability. Buttons need to be compatible with the
shell fabric, other materials in the garment, determined care
procedure, and button – setting equipment.
Characteristics:
Button quality, aesthetic, and performance are by the
materials incorporated in the buttons, the methods of
coloring, finishing, styling, craftsmanship, and method of
application.
The outer buttons used on men’s slacks and women’s skirts
often match or coordinate with the shell fabric, but inner
buttons are often a stand colour or clear and a flat style.
Snaps:
Snaps are mechanical closures that are frequently used on
adult and children’s clothing in place of buttons,
particularly when a less formal look is desired. Snaps are
size by lignes the same as buttons but produced in fewer
sizes. The more common sizes are 15,16,18,20 and 24
lignes, although special sizes and types may be produced to
specifications.
Snap Parts: Snaps are paired mechanical closures that
consist of a closure unit and an attaching unit. A closure
unit consists of two different closure parts: a stud and
socket, that must be compatible. Studs are the projecting
half of the closure unit with an expanded rim, ball, or
flattened end that must fit the socket half of the closure
unit.
Sockets are the hollow half of the closure unit that contains
a spring to retain the stud. The spring and corresponding
shape of the stud provide the holding power for the closure
unit.
Elastic:
Elastic may be used o create an expandaple closure or
opening in a garment. Elastic has two functions: to expand
when stretched and to recover to its original dimension
when released. The loss or reduction of either function
inhibits the aesthetics and performance of elastic and the
garment to which it is attached. The degree of
expandability and recovery is provided by the structure of
elastomeric fibres, fabrication of the elastic, and application
methods.
Elastic may be sampled and tested, and garment prototypes
with elastic incorporated may be tested to determine if the
performance of the elastic is adequate.
Characteristics of Elastics:
Characteristics of elastics depend on materials, fabrication,
and size. Elastics are often produced for a specific end use,
with high or low stretch, and fabricated for a specific
garment category.
Materials:
Apparel hook-and-loop tapes are fabricated from nylon
filament that is knitted or woven into narrow fabric with
1/16 – inch selvages.
Application:
Hook-and-loop tapes are available in standard widths (5/8-
4 inches), and shapes may be die cut to specified
dimensions. It is available on reels for continuous
application or in dispenser packages for easy access and
handling by operators.
Hook:
Waistband hooks are paired metal fasteners, a hook and a
bar (eye), that are set prior to waistband assembly. Each
part of the fastener is held in place by a clinch plate that is
placed inside the band. The hook and bar are designed with
staple like devices on the back. The prongs on the hook or
bar penetrate the band and clamp around the plate. Hooks
attached in this manner may be used on many types of
pants and skirts at all price levels. Hooks may be used
singly in multiples, or supported by buttons.
Summary: