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Interlinings

Interlinings are materials that are fused or sewn to specific


areas on the inside of garments or garment components.
They may provide shape, support, stabilization,
reinforcement, hand and improved performance of garment.
Also called interfacings, particularly by the home sewing
industry, interlinings are most extensively used support
material in ready – to – wear and are important factors in
garment quality.

Functions of Interlinings
Interlinings serve two major functions: (1) to produce and
retain the desired aesthetic appearance and (2) to improve
garment performance.

Interlinings may be used to reduce raveling and provide


stability for the sewing process. They are frequently used
under embroidery to stabilize fabrics during stitching.

Interlinings may be used for reinforcement and extended


durability of yokes, necklines, welt pockets, buttons,
buttonholes, and so on. Interlinings are used in large areas
to provide body, improve resiliency, and increase durability
of many low-count and lightweight fabrics. Whole fronts of
jackets or coats are frequently interlined to provide a
smooth, clean look.

Characteristics of Interlinings

Factors that contribute to the aesthetic and performance of


interlinings are material (fibre) content, weight, fabrication,
and method of application. Combinations of these factors
produce the specific performance characteristics of
particular interlinings.

Fibre Content:

Fibre content contributes to the strength, hand, weight, and


resiliency of interlining. Fibres may be blended to
incorporate the best properties of each. Polyester and nylon
fibres are often used in fibre webs, wovens and knits to
contribute strength, stability, and resiliency without adding
bulk and weight.

The main contribution of cotton and rayon is softness and


hand. Wool and hair fibres may be used in hair canvas to
provide resiliency and compatibility with wool piece goods.
Hair canvas is widely used in better tailored suits and coats
because of its resiliency and shape retention.

Weight:
Interlinings are available in a wide range of weights from
0.4 to 4.0 ounces per square yard. Heavier interlinings
provide more support for heavier; more structured garments
such as coats and suits. Lighter – weight interlinings offer
resiliency and some support, but they may provide a softer
hand. Because the fashion trend in recent years has been to
a softer: less structured look in men’s and women’s
clothing, many newer interlinings are lighter weight.
Fabrication:

Interlinings are available in four basic fabrications; fibre


webs, woven, knits, and foam laminates.

Fibre webs are the most widely used fabrication for


interlining due to low cast, versatility, and the ease of
engineering specific characteristics into the interlining.
Fibre web interlinings are most often found in washable
garments. Fibre webs are frequently made from light
weight, strong synthetic fibres such as nylon and polyester.

Woven interlinings may be produced from almost any type


of fibre. The fabrication is usually the most expensive and
subject to reveling and shrinkage.

Knit fabrics used for interlinings are primarily warp knit


tricots, raschels, and weft insertion raschels.

Foam substrates may be laminated to shell fabrics or


linings to improve body and increase stiffness, durability,
and warmth. Foam, which also provides insulation, may be
used as interlining on budget and moderate priced cloth
coats.

Fusible Interlinings:
Fusible interlinings are fabrications coated with some form
of resin or adhesive that serves as a bonding agent to hold
the interlinings to the shell fabric. Substrates may be
wovens, knits or fibre web. Fusible interlinings must be
fused to shell fabric prior to the construction of
components. Fused garment parts have more body, do not
ravel, and are easy to handle in sewing.

Fusing is the process of bonding fabric layers by


application of heat and pressure for a specific amount of
time. Most equipment used for fusing differs from the
equipment used for garment pressing and finishing. Types
of equipment used to fuse interlinings include 1. Roller
presses 2. Flat bed presses, 3. Continuous pressing
machines, and 4. Irons.

Linings:
Linings are materials that increase aesthetics and
performance by supporting and/or enclosing the interiors of
garments or garment components.

Linings are used to enhance the aesthetic value of


garments. Lining fabrics are available in fashion and basic
colors, print and special weaves, which may be used to
provide special visual effects. Lining fabrics are usually
different than the shell fabrics, but in some instances the
same fabric is used for the garment and linings.

Aesthetically, linings are used to conceal the back of shell


fabrics and the inner construction of a garment such as
seams, interlinings and other support materials.
The hand of linings should complement the aesthetics of
the shell fabric and provide comfort to the wearer.

Factors that affect the quality and performance of linings


include fabric characteristics, design and structure of
linings, compatibility with other materials and garment
structure, and suitability for end use.

Linings also extend garment life by preventing hanger


stress and body contact with the shell fabric.

Lining may also be used to provide thermal comfort. Lining


materials may be selected for breathablility or insulative
properties. Comfort of a water resistant garment may
depend on the absorbency and breathability of the lining
material used. For example, nylon mesh may be used for
lining to allow for more air circulation.

Synthetic fibres are clammy, do not breathe, and allow


buildup of static electricity. Fibre modifications with
wicking properties that increase comfort and reduce static
buildup are sometimes used for lining fabrics.

Acetate is used extensively for lining coats, jackets, skirts,


and slacks, although its performance may be short – lived.
Acetate is less expensive than some other fibres when cost
is a major consideration.

Cotton and rayon are used in lining because of their hand


and absorbency. Filament rayon makes a comfortable lining
that may be used in better suits, uniforms, and other
garments, but rayon also has low abrasion resistance.

Wool is an excellent insulating material and is used only as


an insulative lining. Wool materials are often used to line
gloves and the bodies of topcoats.

Silk is used for its aesthetic appeal, comfort, and status in


better tailored garments. Silk is lightweight, smooth,
drapeable, and absorbent, but its cost prohibits common
usage.

Weight:
Weight of lining fabric affects wearing comfort, thermal
comfort, compatibility, opacity, hand, and drapeability.
With synthetic materials such as polyester fiberfill, it is
possible to have high bulk for warmth without heavy
weight.

Fabrication:
Lining fabrications range from the lightest – weight,
balanced, plain – weave fabrics to the bulky quilted or pile
fabrics. Common fabrications found in jacket linings are
satins and twills. These provide slip ease, comfort,
flexibility, durability, and wind resistance with high –
Count and filament yarns. Skirts and slacks are best lined
with balanced plain – weave fabrics due to their flexibility
and strength.
Closures:
Plackets are structural openings that are usually dependent
on mechanical devices called closures to secure openings.
Closures are fasteners, such as zippers, buttons,
buttonholes, snap, elastics, hooks, hook-and-loop tapes, and
other devices used to open, close, and secure garments.

Purpose of Closures:
Closures may be used as single fastening units, in
multiples, or combined with other types of closures or
trims. Closures contribute to garment aesthetics and
performance. The number, type, and placement of closures
are important to garment appearance, fit, comfort,
durability, and care.

Plackets and closures may be used to add interest, carry out


style features, or enhance the piece goods and trims used in
a garment. Closures may be selected to blend with shell
fabric, create an accent, or support the overall ambiance of
the garment.

Zippers:
Zippers are mechanical slide fasteners. A zipper closes a
placket when two rows of interlocking elements (teeth,
scoops, or coils) are drawn together by a slider. Zippers
allow garments to expand for dressing and to become
smooth and fitted when closed. They may provide closer,
smoother garment fit and accept more seam stress than
buttons, snap, or other closures.
The zipper chain consists of two interlocking stringers of
teeth, scoops, or coils that lock or unlock with the
movement of the slider. Metal chains may be stringer than
continuous coils and are often used in slacks and jeans
where durability and strength are required. Metal teeth,
made of brass, nickel, steel, or zinc, are clamped onto
zipper tapes. During zipper application, metal teeth may be
removed without damaging the tape. This provides a space
for stitching or bar tacking across the zipper.

A slider is the movable part of a zipper that disengages or


interlocks the stringers to form a chain.
Flange lock sliders prevent zippers from being
accidentally opened by pressure on the stringers. Camlock
sliders, used commonly in jeans, lock if the tab is in a
straight up or down position and move easily when the tab
is at a right angle to the zipper. Automatic lock sliders
lock when the tab is in a down position, which allows the
zipper to be closed with the tab in the down position but not
opened. Pinlock sliders have a small pin or projection that
fits between the zipper teeth. Pinlock sliders are used
primarily on garments such as coats and sweatshirts and
tend to give the most operating problems. Nonlock sliders
do not lock in position and are used primarily on purses,
backpacks, upholstery, and in areas without stress.

Zipper tapes are the substrate for attachment and support of


the zipper chain. Durability of the tape is a major factor in
zipper performance. Tapes may be cotton, synthetic, or
fibre blends. Zipper tapes that shrink cause puckered
plackets and seams. Tapes may be treated with resins for
compatibility with permanent press garment and for
dimensional stability.

Zipper stops are essential in preventing the slider from


advancing and becoming disengaged from the chain.

Zipper types: There are two main types of zippers,


separable and non-separable. Separable zippers consist of
two completely separate stringers with a bottom assembly
to reengage the zipper. Separable zippers are used for
jackets and coats. Non - separating zippers open only in
one direction and have a stop across both halves of the
chain at one or both ends so that the slider will not run off
the chain. Non – Separating zippers are used in pants,
skirts, and dresses.

Exposed zippers are not covered or concealed by fabric and


may be aesthetic as well as functional. Zippers may provide
colour accent and texture variation for a style. Exposed
zipper applications are symmetric and commonly used for
neckline opening in knit garments, front openings of
jackets and sweatshirts, and pocket closures on various
types of outerwear.

Enclosed zippers are concealed by plackets located in


seams. Enclosed zipper applications may be symmetric
plackets.

The invisible zipper placket is formed by a permanently


folded zipper tape that must be flattened during stitching.
When closed, the formation of the zipper tape brings the
fabric together without a need for topstitching. Application
requires a special proprietary sewing machine.

Buttons and Buttonholes:

Buttons are small knob – or dislike devices that are secured


to garments to perform as closures when paired with
buttonholes.

Functions:
Buttons may be flat, domed, concaved, ball shaped, oblong,
round, square, or irregular. They may be produced in the
shape of objects, animals, toys, or abstract shapes to
complement a style feature. Buttons are often stamped with
logos or symbols to increase differentiation for garment
manufacturers.
Performance:
Functional buttons and buttonholes close plackets, support
other closures, or support other buttons. Closing security
and flatness of plackets depend on button shape and
spacing, and button hole size, structure, and placement.
Performance specifications may include mildew resistance,
clour fastness, heat resistance, strength, launderability, and
dry cleanability. Buttons need to be compatible with the
shell fabric, other materials in the garment, determined care
procedure, and button – setting equipment.

Characteristics:
Button quality, aesthetic, and performance are by the
materials incorporated in the buttons, the methods of
coloring, finishing, styling, craftsmanship, and method of
application.
The outer buttons used on men’s slacks and women’s skirts
often match or coordinate with the shell fabric, but inner
buttons are often a stand colour or clear and a flat style.

Button Materials and Fabrication:


Buttons may consist of one piece or a combination of
pieces and materials that are clinched, clamped, glued,
soldered or molded together.
Buttons are available in a wide variety of finishes and
textures ranging from shiny, glossy buttons to dull, matte
finishes. Button finish is selected for compatibility with
shell fabric. Buttons may be polished, antiqued, glazed,
painted and dyed after formation of the button blank.
Buttons are also made of other natural substances,
including wood, bone, shell, horn, glass, rubber, leather,
and metals including brass, nickel, copper, and silver.
Plastic buttons are made of nylon, polyester, melamine, and
urea.

Snaps:
Snaps are mechanical closures that are frequently used on
adult and children’s clothing in place of buttons,
particularly when a less formal look is desired. Snaps are
size by lignes the same as buttons but produced in fewer
sizes. The more common sizes are 15,16,18,20 and 24
lignes, although special sizes and types may be produced to
specifications.
Snap Parts: Snaps are paired mechanical closures that
consist of a closure unit and an attaching unit. A closure
unit consists of two different closure parts: a stud and
socket, that must be compatible. Studs are the projecting
half of the closure unit with an expanded rim, ball, or
flattened end that must fit the socket half of the closure
unit.
Sockets are the hollow half of the closure unit that contains
a spring to retain the stud. The spring and corresponding
shape of the stud provide the holding power for the closure
unit.

Materials: Materials used in producing snaps are primarily


metal: steel, brass, and nickel.

Application: Accurate placement and durable snap setting


are important factors in producing quality garments.
Clinched snaps usually cannot be removed and replaced
without damaging the garment.
Snaps can be applied with manual or automatic equipment.
Snap setting equipment, regardless of the complexity and
degree of automation, is dependent on pressure applied
with a chuck and die.

Elastic:
Elastic may be used o create an expandaple closure or
opening in a garment. Elastic has two functions: to expand
when stretched and to recover to its original dimension
when released. The loss or reduction of either function
inhibits the aesthetics and performance of elastic and the
garment to which it is attached. The degree of
expandability and recovery is provided by the structure of
elastomeric fibres, fabrication of the elastic, and application
methods.
Elastic may be sampled and tested, and garment prototypes
with elastic incorporated may be tested to determine if the
performance of the elastic is adequate.

Aesthetics: Elastic used as trim may be selected for its


particular colour or design. Structural design elastics
include stripes, jacquard patterns, logos, or special
constructions; applied designs are printed on elastics.

Performance: Elastic materials are selected for their


specific performance characteristics such as the amount of
stretch, holding power, flexibility, comfort, and hand.
Elastics provide a comfortable fit for waistlines, cuffs, and
necklines as long as they are sized correctly. Elastic allow
for a close body fit and expansion without a placket as long
as the garment itself is large enough. Elastic expansion
makes it easier to pull on the garments and in many cases
eliminates the need for plackets or other closures. Garments
or components with elastic expansion require fewer
materials and operations, thus reducing production costs.

Power stretch elastics, those with a greater resistance to


stretch, are often used in support clothing, protective
devices, and foundation garments.

Characteristics of Elastics:
Characteristics of elastics depend on materials, fabrication,
and size. Elastics are often produced for a specific end use,
with high or low stretch, and fabricated for a specific
garment category.

Materials: Fibre content is a major factor in the longevity,


stretch, performance, and care of elastics. The high
extendibility of elastics is due to elastomeric fibres: rubber
or spandex.

Fabrication: Common narrow elastic fabrications are


braids, knits, and wovens. Braided elastics usually have a
high degree of stretch but become narrower as stretched,
which may create problems with recovery after stitching.
Woven elastics are heavier than knitted and braided elastics
and have more width stability, better rigidity to fold over
and more holding power because the elastomer is easier to
control.
Woven elastics may be plain weaves, satin weaves, or a
novelty variation. Plain weaves are used for the commodity
insert types of elastic; satin weaves are used to produce
strapping elastic and plush elastic.
Knit elstic are produced on warp knitting machines with
individual needles fed by separate yarns. Yarns are knitted
around the elastomers to hold them in place vertically and
horizontally. This provides vertical elongation aand
horizontal stability and does not allow the elastic to become
narrower when elongated as with braided elastics. Knit
elastics are cheaper to produce as raw elastomeric fibres are
used instead of covered yarns.
Application:
Elastics applications may be exposed or enclosed. Exposed
elastic applications are often used at the waistline of
underwear and lingerie. Exposed elastic may be applied to
the outside or inside of a garment and not covered by a
casing or cover stitch. It has direct contact with the body or
other garments, which may limit its durability and aesthetic
appeal. Most exposed applications have elastics fed from a
reel and sewn directly to flat components, such as sleeves
of children’s dress, lingerie, underwear, and swimwear.

Enclosed elastic applications are concealed by a fabric


casing or cover stitching. Enclosed elastic may be more
comfortable and aesthetically pleasing because the elastic is
covered or concealed. Enclosed elastics may also be more
durable because the elastic is covered and protected but
bulkier due to the double thickness of fabric used.

Hook and Loop Tape:

Hook – and - loop fasteners consist of paired polyamide


tapes, one covered with tiny hooks and one covered by tiny
loops. The two tape structures are closed by touch and
pressure and opened or separated with peeling action.

On clothing, hook-and-loop tapes provide a means of


attachment or closure. It is used to hold accessories or
garment parts such as shoulder pads in place, or as
fasteners on jackets, shoes, slacks, shorts, swimsuits,
gloves, and lingerie. Hook-and-loop tape are often used on
clothing for children and people with disabilities because of
the ease in opening and closing compared to other types of
closures that require a higher degree of motor skills and
strength.

Materials:
Apparel hook-and-loop tapes are fabricated from nylon
filament that is knitted or woven into narrow fabric with
1/16 – inch selvages.

Application:
Hook-and-loop tapes are available in standard widths (5/8-
4 inches), and shapes may be die cut to specified
dimensions. It is available on reels for continuous
application or in dispenser packages for easy access and
handling by operators.

Hook:
Waistband hooks are paired metal fasteners, a hook and a
bar (eye), that are set prior to waistband assembly. Each
part of the fastener is held in place by a clinch plate that is
placed inside the band. The hook and bar are designed with
staple like devices on the back. The prongs on the hook or
bar penetrate the band and clamp around the plate. Hooks
attached in this manner may be used on many types of
pants and skirts at all price levels. Hooks may be used
singly in multiples, or supported by buttons.

Summary:

Closures are fasteners, including zippers, buttons,


buttonholes, snaps, elastics, hook-and-loop tapes, hooks,
and other devices that make it possible to open and close
garments. Closures are materials that are part of developing
garment designs, sourcing materials, managing inventory,
and planning apparel production. Closure failure is a
primary cause of consumer complaints. Appropriate
selection and application of closures contribute to garment
aesthetics and serviceability. Considerations when selecting
closures include garment characteristics, quality standards,
assembly methods, application procedures, and costs.
Availability of appropriate equipment and skill may closure
selection.

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