No 292 / Spring 2011

580 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10036 - madeleine@assael.com - www.assael.com

 IN THIS ISSUE

On the Cover
Pendant, earrings, and ring
in the Antigua collection in
18K rose gold with amethyst,
citrine, and diamonds by
Opera Omnia.

Cover Feature on page 6

www.operajewels.com
22
www.opera-omnia.it Lacy Looks – Ole Lynggaard

34
Marketplace SIHH – Cartier
Editor’s Letter
04 Paper Is So Last Millennium... or Is It?
20
Cover Feature Spring Flowers – Piaget

06 Opera Omnia – Seductive Sonatas

Trends & Colours
Profiles
20 Spring Flowers
08 Eco-Gold by Jewelmer 22 Lacy Looks
10 Ramon – Devotion to Excellence 24 Still Charming
26 Black is the New Black
Colour Trends 28 Pure White
12 Colours for Spring/Summer 2011 30 Colour Combos
32 Underwater Treasures
Marketplace
34 SIHH 2011 – Optimism and Neoclassicism
38
42
Vicenzaoro First Opens Under the Banner of Innovation
Jewels in the Desert
12
46 IIJS Signature 2011 Show Report

48 Index

32
3
Colour Trends – Nary Manivong
Maniv
Underwater Treasures
Treas –
Stephen WWebster

The Yearbook No 291 / Winter - Trends Guide 2011 is brought to you by CIJ International Jewellery TRENDS & COLOURS / Europa Star.
sEditor#YNTHIA5NNINAYARsContributors$IANA3:IMMERMAN42&LORA2AYAN)NNUE!NTONELLA3CORTA+IRAN.IRANKARIsAdvertising contacts Alexandra Montandon amontandon@europastar.com T. +41 22 307 7847 / Nathalie Glattfelder
nglattfelder@europastar.com T. +41 22 307 7832 /Italy - Alessandra Arati aarati@studioarati.it T. +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena csapena@europastar.es T. +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong maggietong@europastar.com
)NDIA "HUPAL0OTDARBHUPALPOTDAR MEDIA SCOPECOM453! #YNTHIA5NNINAYARCU COMMUNICATIONSINTLCOM4sGraphic Design,AURENCE#HATENOUD4ASHA5NNINAYARsManaging Director
0HILIPPE-AILLARDsOn the Web at: www.CIJintl.com and www.worldwatchweb.com - Published by Europastar HBM SA - 25 Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland - Tel: +41.22.307.7837; Fax: +41.22.300.3748; Email: contact@CIJintl.com
0RINTEDIN'ENEVABY32/ +UNDIGs#OPYRIGHTBY%UROPA3TAR)NTERNATIONAL*EWELLERY
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ International Jewellery.
 © PADULO PRIVÉ 2010 MARTIN MARGIELA, IKRAM CHICAGO ART DIRECTION PALFY/FERRARA PHOTOGRAPHY SKREBNESKI

16 EAST 52ND STREET

SUITE 701
NEW YORK
NY
10022
800.223.0774
W W W. G U M U C H I A N . C O M
E D I TO R ’ S L E T T E R

Paper is so last millennium…

or is it?
We are hearing more and more these days about the death of paper. Some argue that because of the internet, paper
will go the way of the dinosaur, that online advertising will replace print, that paper is so last millennium…

Well, not quite so fast.

A research study involving brain scans commissioned by the branding agency Millward Brown shows
that people process information differently depending on whether it is virtual or on paper. The study
suggests that “physical material is more ‘real’ to the brain. It has a meaning, and a place. It is bet-
ter connected to memory because it engages with its spatial memory networks.” The study goes on to
state that “physical materials produced more brain responses connected with internal feelings, suggesting
greater ‘internalization’ of the ads.” To sum it up, “tangible materials leave a deeper footprint in the
brain” than do virtual materials. Thus, “tangible materials involved more emotional processing in
the subjects, important from a branding and ad recall standpoint.”

Does this mean we should abandon the digital world? No, of course not. What this study shows is that both
mediums have important but different—and we could add complementary—roles when it comes to marketing and
branding. Paper incites a more emotional and long lasting response but the interactivity and immediacy of digital have
their own advantages.

To use our magazine, CIJ Trends & Colours, as an example, many of our readers—retailers, designers, and brands—
have complimented us on the attractive pages and layouts showing the trends and the many colours of jewellery from
around the world. Theirs was a physical response to the physical pages, to the print magazine they held in their hands.
Yet, after printing and mailing the last issue—the 2011 trends tracker guide—it was put online on our rather
unique website, www.CIJintl.com. The response surprised even us. It received nearly a million page
views. Obviously, both paper and digital are important parts of our world. Both have their place,
and both can be used to effectively get a message out.

In this issue, we continue our message of colour, showing the Spring/Summer 2011
colours forecasted by Pantone, along with matching jewellery. In terms of trends,
the floral theme is one of the biggest for 2011 and is featured here along with the
popular marine motifs and the luxurious lacy looks—the price of metals oblige. While
colour is, of course, the main trend, both in single shades and in multi-hues, black and white pieces
continue to be appreciated by many, as do the little charms that can be personalized in so many ways. You
can see them all on our Trends & Colours pages in this issue.

Happy reading—whether you are holding the magazine in your hand or viewing it online.

Cynthia
Cynthia Unninayar
Editor-in-Chief / CIJ Trends & Colours
04
 /[RGCTNUCTGO[RCUUKQP

1 E R M P E  ˆ  ( Y F E M  ˆ  , S R K  /S R K  ˆ  1 I P F S Y V R I  ˆ  4 E V M W
[ [ [ N I [ I P Q I V G S Q
cover story

Opera Omnia –
Seductive Sonatas
Opera Omnia continues to create colourful jewellery that combines
Antigua Collection Italian expertise in craftsmanship with a pureness of design.

By Cynthia Unninayar

Marketing maestro Massimo Zerbini is not resting on his

laurels with the success of his new brand Opera Omnia.
Having assembled a group of talented artisans and
creative designers, he continues to build this new and
distinctive brand through a style and set of values that
reflect the post-modern world of ultimate luxury. Using
precious gems and the highest quality materials, Opera
Omnia has just added two new collections, confirming its
prestigious status in terms of superior design, stone quality,
and superb manufacturing.
Innovation, new materials, high quality gemstones, diamonds and unique
combinations of gems and precious metals are a few of the phrases that
describe Opera Omnia’s latest collections of Antigua and S.Barths.
There is something magically seductive about the curved lines, sinuous
movements, and interwoven patterns that make up the fine jewellery
pieces in the Antigua collection. In an almost theatrical manner,
they interpret a variety of historical baroque patterns that represent
a mixture of cultures, symbolisms, and mysticisms. The artistry and
virtuosity of each Antigua piece is enhanced by the uncommon
combinations of different gemstones. Amethyst coupled with Madera
quartz or citrine with smoky quartz, joined in unusual settings evokes
a world of allegoric illusions and dreams. The thoughtful mix of yellow
or rose gold with precious gems creates a certain rhythm that breaks
with the past and brings it into the future.
The forces of Nature seem to come alive in a soft, yet assertive,
fashion in the S.Barths collection. Building an exclusive and absolute
relationship with Nature, the S.Barths collection presents small
sculptures that can be worn and admired. Soft fluid shapes in 18K
rose or white gold suggest the sensuality of S.Barths Island and
reflect the movement of the isle’s flowers and leaves. Colourful, airy,
and intensely feminine, these exquisite pieces bring together the
finest sapphires, rubies, and diamonds in creative and contemporary
combinations.
Opera Omnia continues its popular Saba line with a variety of new
designs. The latest creations continue the use of colour and the
geometric forms of its earlier lines, adding a very contemporary flair
in terms of design and vibrancy. Lively chromatic combinations of
pink gold, jet, multi-colour sapphires, and leather make these pieces
exceptional.
06
Massimo Zerbini
 Saba Collection
Canouan Collection

The brand’s continuing Canouan line, inspired by

the southern Antilles and the varied landscape of
green hills, secluded bays, and white sand beaches,
features such gems as white and brown
diamonds, tsavorite, amethyst, prasiolite, and
garnet in simple and clean designs.
Again drawing inspiration from the marine
environment are pieces in the Coral Reef collection. In
various shapes, these jewels are covered with diamond
pavé or hand-finished mother-of-pearl, highlighted
with pink sapphires, chalcedony, and other coloured
gemstones.
Who are the women who wear these original pieces?
Zerbini describes the Opera Omnia woman as “an
individual who is self-confident, dynamic, cosmopolitan,
and very often a self-purchaser. She is proud to reveal the
different aspects of her personality.”
For its distribution, Opera Omnia works with select retailers. The brand’s strategy
and co-marketing activities for 2011 are focused on three pillars: working closely
with retailers to support them throughout their business development; having a
consistent communication plan to help increase awareness and visibility of the
Opera Omnia brand with consumers; organizing local events to enhance the
importance of the brand, its message, and identity at the point of the sale.
Opera Omnia will be present at BaselWorld in March at the prestigious Hall
2.2, Booth E81, as well as at the exclusive Couture show in Las Vegas in
June where its latest seductive sonatas can be admired. (operajewels.com,
opera-omnia.it, Tel: +1.305.534.1974)

Coral Reef Collection S.Barths Collection

07
PROFILE

ECO-GOLD BY JEWELMER
The true beauty of the creations by Jewelmer is on two levels. First
is the brand’s exquisite jewellery made from the natural golden
pearls that it cultivates in the ocean waters of the Philippines.
Second is the brand’s active participation in protecting the
environment.
By Cynthia Unninayar

Jewelmer, the world’s leading producer of golden pearls, was

started in 1979 by the visionary French perliculture expert,
Jacques Branellec, and Filipino entrepreneur, Manuel
Cojuangco. What sets this company apart from most
others is not just the high quality of its living golden gems
and luxurious jewellery, but also the brand’s philosophy
and determination to protect the environment and
promote sustainability projects for the local population.
Jewelmer’s jewellery is a perfect blend of European and
Asian creativity, artistry, and craftsmanship, combining the
lustrous golden pearl—which needs no polishing or
enhancements to release its inner glow—with 18K gold,
diamonds, and coloured gemstones. Ranging from simple
pendants to elegant strands to sumptuous pieces worthy of the
red carpet, the jewellery of Jewelmer is like no other.
Behind these extraordinary pearls lies thirty years of research and
experimentation to provide the best environment for the oysters,
which allows them to create these golden organic gems. And, for oysters to
live and thrive, this environment means clean seawater at constant temperatures.
But, there are threats to this environment. Industrial pollution, erosion, and siltation
put the health and lives of the oysters at risk, while destructive fishing methods—
especially those using dynamite and cyanide—can dramatically harm the fragile
marine ecosystem. And, along with global warming comes rising sea temperatures—
even a two-degree change can prove fatal to the oysters.
“The pearl is an indicator of the health of the planet,” says Jacques Branellec,
managing director of Jewelmer and avowed environmentalist. “It records every
nuance in the cleanliness of the water, every change in temperature, every
disturbance caused by a dynamite blast. If we preserve nature, we will continue to
have pearls. If mankind does not respect our environment, the pearl industry might
just vanish, as it has already done in some parts of the world.”
While Jewelmer’s management readily states that maintaining a clean environment
is in its best interest, the philosophy of protecting the environment goes much
deeper and is deeply ingrained in the entire company. This social and environmental
awareness is also seen in various initiatives that Jewelmer has undertaken
to teach the local population sustainable farming techniques for a better
life, and to help stop the detrimental slash and burn activities, as well as
destructive fishing. The company also contributes to other environmental
protection and education efforts in the local islands.
A company with a conscience, Jewelmer will continue to help protect
the environment as well as provide the world with its beautiful eco-gold
ccreations. (www.Jewelmer.com)
cr
08
Profile

Ramon – Devotion
to Excellence
Barcelona-based Ramon occupies a prominent place among fine
European jewellers, producing high quality collections under its
own brand label as well as private collections for many of the finest
names on the Place Vendôme.

By Rayan Innue

“I have not been lucky by chance.” Carlos E.

Ramon—father of current chairman, Mr. Carlos
Ramon—whose personal motto was “work, work, work,” lived by
these words since he was 17 when he opened his first workshop
with only five employees. Today, the Ramon brand is recognized
globally, with over 300 international and national customers.
Its collections include a range of stylish jewellery, from whimsical
animals to sinuous gold and diamond pieces to captivating and
airy mesh circles and ovals. Ramon also varies its designs to meet
the requests of specific clients. “After all,” Carlos Ramon says, “the
customer is King.”
“There are no preconceived rules in the design of our jewellery,” he continues. “We
try for acute artistic sensitivity and extraordinary creativity as well as a search for
perfection in each design.” Harmony, balance, and sophistication are at the heart
of each collection—as is Carlos Ramon’s devotion to excellence. But there is also
a captivating sense of charm and fun in many of his pieces.
A few years ago, the company introduced spherical elements into its design
line-up, made up of a refined and airy mesh of circles in a variety of shapes.
Later, came oval forms in a number of variations in rings, earrings, bangles, and
pendants. Large, but light and airy, these gold, diamond, and gemstone pieces are
destined to the self-purchaser who knows what she wants. And, for women who
want to be truly exclusive, Ramon also produces its pieces in platinum.
In BaselWorld, Ramon will introduce 30 to 40 new pieces consisting of coloured
rings using enamel and diamonds, flower motifs, laser cut bracelets, and more
circle motifs, all reflecting high quality and distinctive designs, representative of
Ramon’s devotion to excellence. (www.ramon.es)
Carlos Ramon
C O L O U R T R E N D S

Colours for Spring/Summer 2011

In the winter edition of CIJ Trends & Colours,
our annual trends tracker guide, we talked
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also are are the opinions of fashion designers
on their must-have fashion item.

%\&\QWKLD8QQLQD\DU

Bapalal Keshavlal

Tresor

Nary Manivong, using Pantone

Blue Curacao. The must-have
fashion item: One-shoulder
corset wrap dress in Sea
Foam, and the fisherman
pants in the diamond print
will look great with a Black
or Nude strapless wrap
corset top.
Goldesign

Stephen Webster

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report Spring 2011.

12
 SWAROVSKI AG / DROESCHISTRASSE 15 / 9495 TRIESEN / LIECHTENSTEIN
T +49 308 9677 7774 / CUSTOMERSERVICE.GEMSTONES@SWAROVSKI.COM
WWW.SWAROVSKI-GEMS.COM
 C O L O U R T R E N D S
Vianna

Valerio B

Yael Sonia

Elke BBerr
errr
err

Charlotte Ronson, using

Pantone Russet. The
must-have fashion Nanette Lepore, using
item: Spanish floral Pantone Honeysuckle. The
spaghetti-strap dress must-have fashion
with ruffled handker- item: This spring is
chief hemline. about convertible
dressing – jackets
that double as shirts,
outerwear as light as Mi Piaci
a dress.

Ramon
Sevan

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report
port Spring
S 2011.

14
Visit us at:
Baselworld - The World Watch
and Jewellery Show
March 24 - 31, 2011
Hall 3.0 - Stand C60

Make every moment

sparkle All over the world, Rosy Blue works with the most
qualified people and leading edge technology,
providing your business with precisely what
you need: A Trusted Source you can depend on.

Find out more at www.rosyblue.com

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ANTWERP | DUBAI | HONG KONG | JOHANNESBURG | MUMBAI | NEW YORK | SHANGHAI | TEL AVIV | TOKYO
 C O L O U R T R E N D S
Jolie B. RRay
ay

Stuller

Casato

Bogh-Art

Cynthia Gale
Geo Art

Mathon Paris

Tibi, using Pantone Rebecca Taylor, using

Beeswax. The must-have Pantone Coral Rose. The
fashion item: It’s not must-have fashion
an item for spring, it’s item: Our tea-length,
a head-to-toe look, an smocked-waist skirt,
Ochre top with match- in Kelly Green of
ing Ochre pant. course!
Opera Omnia

Fashion
F hi sketches,
k h quotes, and
d colours
l are courtesy off Pantone Fashion Colour
olour Report
Repo
eport
rt Spring
Spr g 2011.
2011.

16
 C O L O U R T R E N D S
Toby Pomeroy

Bruner
Jorg Heinz

Utopia

Tarditi

Ella Moss by Pamela Protzel

Scott, using Pantone Silver
Brosway Cloud. The must-have
fashion item: The maxi
skirt in silk chiffon
prints and washed
cotton voiles – this
silhouette pairs nicely
with loose casual tees.

Green G

Tommy Hilfiger, using Pantone

Regatta. The must-have
fashion item: The tennis
skirt is a fresh, quirky take
Skagen Denmark on a staple American
Bastian pastime.

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report Spring 2011.

18
 David Lin Jades

Rodney Rayner
a
anna
Vianna

Daniela
Swaebe

Gumuchian

Carlos Campos, using

Pantone Lavender.
The must-have
fashion item: Our
button down wrap
dress in Rosa.

Vendorafa

Monique Lhuillier, using

Pantone Silver Peony. The Fifth Season
The must-have
fashion item: A
Antonini shimmery cocktail
dress with ombre
sequins.

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report Spring 2011.

19
T R E N D S & C O L O U R S
3

SPRING
1

FLOWERS
4 Flowers remain one of the popular themes in both
fashion and jewellery. From simple stylistic designs
to elaborate and realistic
tic petals,
petals stems,
stems and leaves
made of colourful gemstones and diamonds, flower
creations add a touch of splendour to any outfit, no
matter what season of the year.
y

4
5

7 6

8
1. Flower brooch
roooch made
m dee in gold
ma gooldd from
m a real o er by Vajra
r a flower
flflow V jraa (Korea).
Va reaa) 2.
(KKor
orea 2 Gold nd diamond ring by Manoel
Gooldldd and
Bernardes (Brazil). 3. Gemstone and diamond necklace by E & V Jewellery ell (Hong Kong). 4. South Sea
golden pearl and diamond earrings by Jewelmer (Philippines). 5. Gemstone and diamond ring by Piaget
(Switzerland). 6. Gemstone and diamond ring by Goldesign (Brazil). 7. Gemstone and diamond ring by Gay
9 Freres (France). 8. Shoe by Luciano Padovan (photo: AS). 9. Outfit by Dolce & Gabbana (photo: AS).

20
 10 10

11

12

14
14
13

155

16

10. Ruby and diamond earrings by Green G (Hong Kong). 11. Gold, enamel, and diamondd ring bbyy
Masriera (Spain). 12. Baroque South Sea pearl and diamond brooch by Assael International
natitioonall
nation 17
(USA). 13. Gemstone and diamond brooch by Unicorn (Hong Kong). 14. Gemstone brooch ch by
ch
Zorab (Thailand). 15. Sapphire and diamond ring by Goldiaq (Hong Kong). 16. Diamond
ndd and
tsavorite ring by Aspire Designs (Hong Kong). 17. Enamel and gold brooch by Hidalgoo (USA)
(USA).
18. Outfit by Isaac Mizrahi (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC). 18

21
T R E N D S & C O L O U R S
3

2
1

LACY LOOKS
The open, airy, and lacy look is a popular trend both in
jewellery and fashion. Although a style in its own right,
lacy designs also offer a larger look with a lighter weight,
especially since prices of precious metals have soared
over the last few years. With designs inspired by nature,
architecture, geometry, and freeform shapes, the lacy
look is evoked in a variety of metals, gemstones, pearls,
diamonds, and even wood.

6
1. Gold and diamond pendant by Ramon (USA). 2. Gold and diamond ring by Alberian&Aude (USA).
3. Gemstone, gold, and diamond earrings by John Apel (USA). 4. Gold and diamond pendant by Luca
Carati (Italy). 5. Gold and diamond brooch by Aspire Designs (Hong Kong). 6. Ebony, diamond, and
gold bracelet by Raffaella Mannelli (Italy). 6. Gold cuff by Carla Amorim (Brazil). 7. Outfit by
8 Zigman (photo: Dubrovnik Fashion Week).

22
 10
111
10
10
9

122

13

14

155

99.. Diaamo and gold pendant by LeVian (USA). 10. Gold pendant by Daniel Espinosa (Mexico).
DDiamond
Di
111. Gold and diamond pendant by Bapalal Keshavlal (India). 12. Diamond, pearl, and gold
pendant by Yael Designs (USA). 13. Gold and diamond cuff by Ole Lynggaard (Denmark).
14. Silver cuff by Metalsmith Sterling (Canada). 15. Gold, diamond, and ruby pendant
by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 16. Outfit by BCBG Max Azria (photo: Mercedes Benz
Fashion Week NYC). 166

23
T R E N D S & C O L O U R S

STILL
1 CHARMING
4

Charms have undergone a number of evolutions

over the years, but their popular continues unabated.
Not only found on bracelets, these little jewels grace
earrings, rings, and even pendants. Perhaps their
greatest appeal is that they can be personalized,
evoking everything from love to lifestyle, from a
favourite pet to a favourite vacation, in a variety
of metals and gemstones. They are indeed still
charming.

1. Gold and diamond charm by Garel (France). 2. Charm ring in pink gold, white gold, and diamonds by Ramon (Spain).
3. Gold, diamond, and enamel charm bracelet by Roberto Coin (Italy). 4. Onyx, silver, and enamel charm bracelet by
Luxenter (Spain). 5. Silver and enamel “Summer Lover” charm bracelet by Ti Sento (The Netherlands). 6. Outfit by
6 Alexandre Herchcovitch (photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

24
 7
8

10

11

12

7. Variety of charms on a leather bracelet by Ole Lynggaard (Denmark). 8. Charms and bracelet in 18K gold by
Commelin (France). 9. Message charm bracelet by Heather Moore (USA). 10. Gold and diamond teddy bear
charm by Salvini (Italy). 11. Gold and enamel “Dog” charm bracelet by Rosato (Italy). 12. Doggie charm bracelet in
gold and enamel by Meche (USA). 13. Outfit by Naeem Khan (photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC). 13

25
T R E N D S & C O L O U R S

2 3

4
BLACK IS THE
NEW BLACK 4

Mysterious, sensual, and sophisticated,

black continues to be one of the basic
colours for 2011, whether in the little
black dress or in the little black jewel. In
jewellery, black is interpreted by pearls,
diamonds, sapphires,, onyz,
y , jet,
j , jade,
j , and
a number of black
blackened
blac
cke ed metals.
k need metals

5
6

1. Black titanium and silver pendant by Mirella (USA). 2. Onyx and silver pendant by Scott Kay
(USA). 3. Onyx and diamond earrings by Kenzo (France). 4. Black and white diamond earrings by
John Apel (USA). 5. Blackened metal earrings by K.Brunini (USA). 6. Black jade carved dragon
7 belt buckle by David Lin Jades (USA). 7. Outfit by Brioni (photo: Tashkent Fashion Week).

26
 8 9

10

11

12
14

13

8. Onyx and tu turquoise pendant by Syna (USA). 9. Onyx and diamond earrings by Ivanka Trump (USA).
10. Black Tahitian
Ta pearl and diamond earring by Assael International (USA). 11. Black diamond and
goldld ring by Garavelli (Italy). 12. Tungsten carbide ring by Frederick Goldman (USA). 13. Black and
white diamond ring by Diamond Shadows (USA). 14. Ceramic and diamond ring by Etienne Perret
(USA). 15. Outfit by Carlos Miele (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC). 15

27
T R E N D S & C O L O U R S

2 2

PURE
WHITE
4 In the strict sense of the term, white is not 4
a colour but the presence of all colours
combined, giving it a complete energy.
With its cool qualities, white is thought
to provide clarity and purity. In jewellery,
elegant white designs are created with
jade, agate, gold, silver, pearls, ceramic,
diamonds, and quartz, among others.

1. Diamond, rock crystal, and gold pendant by Casato (Italy). 2. Diamond and South SSea
white pearl earrings by Autore (Australia). 3. Jade and diamond pendant by David Lin
Jades (USA). 4. Pearl and diamond earrings by Mathon Paris (France). 5. Agate and
gold ring by Ramon (Spain). 6. Shoes by Tosca Blu (photo: AS). 7. Outfit by Isaac
7 Mizrahi (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

28
 8

10
9
10

11
12

13

8. Diamond and South Sea pearl earrings by Staurino (Italy). 9. Quartz, gold, and diamond ring by
Bruner (Brazil). 10. Agate and gold earrings by Goldiaq (Hong Kong). 11. White ceramic, black
diamond, and gold ring by Leaderline (Italy). 12. Octea Sport Ultra White watch by Swarovski
(Austria). 13. White ceramic and coloured diamond ring by Etienne Perret (USA). 14. Outfit by
Christophe Guillarme (photo: Christophe Guillarme). 14

29
T R E N D S & C O L O U R S

3
1

COLOUR
COMBOS
Nothing evokes
okes Spring
Spr like a rainbow of colours
both in fashion
shion and
an in jewellery. From simple to
sophisticated,
t d jewellery designers from around
the world offer a multitude of wonderful and
creative colour combos.

4 4

5
1. Multi-co
Multi-coloured
M emsttone ring by Isabelle Langlois
ulti-coloured gem
gemstone Lan
a glois (France). 2. Mutli-coloured oured ge
gemstone
emst and
emstone
diamond
mondd ring
i byb HHH Gems
G (H ong)). 33.. M
(Hong KKong). Multi-coloured
ultltii-collouredd sap
sapphire
phihire andd didiamondd ne
necklace
cklklace bby
Eclatt JJewelsl (USA).
S 44. Multi-coloured
(USA) M lti l d sapphire, hi pearl,l andd didiamondd earrings i bby GGuilherme
ilh
Duque (Brazil). 5. Multi-coloured gemstone bracelet by Tresor (USA). 6. Outfit by Tsumori
6 Chisato (photo: Tashkent Fashion Week).

30
 7 7

10

11 11

12

7.7 Mu
M lti-coloured gemstone and diamond earrings by Lorenz Baumerr (F
Multi-coloured France) 88. Ge
(France). Gemstone
mstonne and
gold pendant by Marco Bicego (Italy). 9. Multi-coloured gemstone pendant by Yael Designs
(USA). 10. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond ring by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 11. Multi-
coloured gemstone and pearl earrings by Elena Martinico (Italy). 12. Chair by Cappellini (photo:
AS). 13. Outfit by Agatha Ruiz De La Prada (photo: Cibeles Madrid). 13

31
T R E N D S & C O L O U R S

3
4

UNDERWATER
TREASURES
Among the themed jewellery collections, the marine
environment is one of the most popular, evoking
fish, octopus, snails, and other creatures of the
5
deep crafted in a variety of gemstones, metals, and
diamonds. Whether representing realistic creations,
playful pieces, or stylized interpretations, they are
certainly wonderful underwater treasures.

1. “Sapphire and diamond “Jewels Verne” flying fish brooch by Stephen Webster (Britain). 2. Multi-coloured gemstone
brooch from “Les Voyages Extraordinaires” by Van Cleef & Arpels (France). 3. Opal, diamond, and gold brooch by
Oscar Heyman (USA). 4. Multi-coloured gemstone and pearl brooch by Autore (Australia). 5. Gold seahorse charm by
Commelin (France). 6. Diamond and pearl brooch by Assael International (USA). 7. Ruby, silver, and gold ring by
8 Manya & Roumen (USA). 8. Outfit by Dolores Cortes (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

32
 10

11

12

15

13 14

9. Sapphire and diamond charm by Pippo Perez (Italy). 10. Diamond and ruby manta ray ring by Aspire
Designs (Hong Kong). 11. Enamel and diamond pendant by Aaron Basha (USA). 12. Multi-coloured gemstone
and diamond brooch by Lorenz Baumer (France). 13. Multi-colored gemstone and gold ring by Misis (Italy).
14. Opal, diamond, emerald, and gold brooch by Oscar Heyman (USA). 15. Outfit by Gottex (photo: Mercedes
Benz Fashion Week NYC). Background underwater image taken by Lornie Mueller, Lithos Jewelry (USA). 15

33
 MARKETPLACE
Multi-gemstone and diamond necklace in Les Voyages
Extraordinaires collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.
White gold watch set with
rubies, diamonds, sapphires,
onyx, and emeralds in Les
Voyages Extraordinaires collection
by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Rubellite, diamond, and emerald ring in the Limelight
Garden Party collection by Piaget.
34
SIHH 2011 –
SIH
OPTI
OPTIMISM AND
NEOCLASSICISM
NEOC
The private and prestig
prestigious Salon International de la Haute
ended its 21st edition in January on a very
Horlogerie (SIHH) ende
optimistic note in Geneva
Geneva, with trends in watches that favoured
mostly a return to minima
minimalism and classicism. Some brands,
however, also offered ama
amazing bejewelled timepieces.
By Cynthi
Cynthia Unninayar
The 2011 edition of the SIHH d definitely saw a change in mood from last year.
After all the uncert
uncertainties
i of the previous couple of years, optimism was the word
of the day as the 19 exhibiting brands showcased their wares to retailers from
around the world. In fact, the show’s organizer and owner of many of the exhibiting
brands, Geneva-based Richemont, reported that its retail sales increased 23
percent at constant exchange rates, excluding acquisitions, for the last quarter of
2010, and that its growth was broad-based, with the highest rate reported in
the Asia-Pacific region.
Yet, retailers came not only from Asia (20 percent) but mainly from
Europe (60 percent), with fewer numbers from North and South
America (12 percent) and the Middle East (8 percent) to see the
latest products of the participating brands (A.Lange & Söhne, Alfred
Dunhill, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, JeanRichard,
Girard Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Montblanc,
Officine Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Ralph Lauren, Richard
Mille, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels).
While “optimism” was the key word in terms of mood, the major trends in terms
of product were “minimalism” and “classicism” with many brands thinking “thin”
this year. For a detailed explanation of these current trends in fine timekeeping
at the SIHH, please see our sister publication, Europa Star, issue 1.11, which
details many of the brands and their latest models. For this article, however, we
take a look at those brands that (while they also offered important neoclassic
models of prestige watchmaking) included examples of wonderfully creative high
jewellery timepieces, studded with diamonds and coloured gems or masterfully
decorated with enamel and other artistic crafts.
While certainly a champion of the thin movement, Piaget also produces
extraordinary bejewelled timepieces as well as beautiful jewellery. Continuing
its Limelight Garden Party theme, the
Geneva brand evokes
Diamond-set quartz watch in Cartier’s “Mille et une heures” collection.
a luxuriant garden where cherry blossoms have emerald
stems, a diamond rose savours a quiet moment, a bird
pauses to inspect a pearl, emeralds and diamonds form the
cases of elegant watches, and where rubellites are visited by
diamond-set birds. Piaget is indeed a master in both haute horlogerie
and haute joaillerie.
Van Cleef & Arpels also excels in the realm of fine watchmaking with
pieces that combine intricate mechanical complications with highly
decorated dials and cases. Famous for its jewellery, the French
brand’s bejewelled timepieces are equally as impressive. Among
the collections this year, it features Les Voyages Extraordinaires,
where remarkable watches, inspired by books by Jules Verne,
are presented in white gold cases with translucent paillonné High jewellery watch by Cartier.
enamel. Equipped with an 800P automatic movement, groups
of four of these watches are sold in a limited series of 22, and
presented in an elegant wooden cabinet whose lid is decorated
with various wood inlays. Van Cleef & Arpels has also expanded
the travel theme to include “extraordinary” dials evoking a variety
of places that Jules Verne described in Five Weeks in a Balloon,
including animals found in Africa and Antarctica, as well as a number
of underwater motifs. The brand ends its colourful and extraordinary journey
with a sumptuous high jewellery piece, where flowers and leaves are made Diamond and emerald watch
of emeralds and sapphires, creepers are composed of diamonds, and two in the Limelight Garden
Party collection by Piaget.
small monkeys with tails of black onyx and diamonds are entwined in the
branches.
Cartier has also taken a journey through time with a spectacular collection
of jewellery watches, entitled Mille Et Une Heures (1001 hours), comprising
30 timepieces. Recalling the times of ancient India and the architecture of its
sculptured palaces, these high jewellery watches feature arabesque motifs.
Another exotic collection is its Great Tradition of Artistic Crafts. For more
than 160 years, Cartier has placed artistic crafts at the core of its pieces,
and this year, the brand has created six new timepieces that reinterpret
the dignity of these artistic crafts in stone mosaics, gold cloisonné enamel,
intaglio engravings, and wood marquetry. This exceptional menagerie includes
a tortoise, polar bear, leopard, hummingbird, monkey, and brown bear, all
brought to life by the hands of the brand’s highly
skilled craftsmen. On a different note, Cartier
combines its high jewellery predilection and
its taste for technical complications in its
Tourbillon and Crocodile watch, thus adding
a new dimension to haute horlogerie
and haute joaillerie.
The overall ambiance at the SIHH
was one of luxury, of course,
but one brand created its own
enchanting environment at the show—
Baume & Mercier. The leitmotif of the Diamond and emerald ring in the Limelight
Garden Party collection by Piaget.
brand’s communication is lifestyle, more
specifically seaside living—“a way of life,
which perfectly corresponds to the genuine
values of conviviality, sharing, and durability” Multi-gemstone and diamond brooch
that are promoted by the watchmaker. in Les Voyages Extraordinaires
collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Expressing this vision through family and friends,
35
 Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 026, featuring two bejewelled snakes
mar k e t place wrapped around the tourbillon movement.

the brand’s booth convincingly reproduced

a delightful and relaxing seaside resort in
the Hamptons on Long Island in New York. In
keeping with this theme, the brand presented
a contemporary interpretation of two of its most
celebrated collections, the Capeland and Linea,
along with new and more stylish examples of Classima,
all evoking Baume & Mercier’s new dictum: Life is about
moments. Among these moments are lovely contemporary
jewellery pieces in the Linea line.
Richard Mille continues the use of coloured gemstones in certain models, but
this year, he does so in a rather provocative fashion. The Richard Mille Tourbillon
RM 026, in a limited series of 15, features a diamond-set white gold case that
harbours two snakes writhing in and around the tourbillon movement while holding it
in place. The serpents are made of rubies, emeralds, and diamonds set in white gold,
Vintage 1945 Lady diamond watch in
pink gold by Girard-Perregaux. with a red coral tongue. Why snakes? “Serpents in mythology have complex roles
that can be either good or evil. In connection with the positive properties of the black
onyx base plate, they however take on a protective role,” says the brand. Richard
Mille also makes different versions of the coupled snakes, including other coloured
Jewellery version in the Linea gems, engraved stones, or enamelled bodies. Undoubtedly, this piece is an elegant
line by Baume & Mercier.
way to unite the powers of Nature and the ingenuity of prestige timekeeping.
Other brands at the SIHH also showcased beautiful jewellery versions of their
main collections, such as Audemars Piguet with its elegant diamond-set Jules
Audemars Selfwinding models, Girard-Perregaux with its lovely Vintage 1945
Lady crafted in pink gold set with diamonds and its graceful Cat’s Eye pieces
with their sensual curves, the sparkling all-diamond-pavé case of Ralph Lauren’s
Stirrup Diamond Link watch, set with more than 1,500 diamonds, with a total
of 12 different sized stones, and the bejewelled COSC-certified Excalibur Lady
Jewellery by Roger Dubuis.
As these exquisite examples demonstrate, fine jewellery and fine watchmaking
can come together to create fine jewellery watches.

Jewellery version of Audemars Piguet’s Leopard motif in Cartier’s Great Tradition Cartier’s Tourbillon and Crocodile watch. Ralph Lauren Stirrup Diamond Link watch,
Jules Audemar Selfwinding watch. of Artistic Crafts watch collection. set with more than 1,500 diamonds.

36
 marketplace

Silver and diamond pendant by Bastian.
VicenzaOro First
Opens Under the
Banner of Innovation
The first event in the VicenzaOro trilogy of trade fairs held in the
historic Italian city of Vicenza opened its doors amid a general
feeling of optimism for the sector and an ambitious program of new
initiatives and major enhancements for the Italian jewellery industry.

By Cynthia Unninayar

“Silverfope” bracelet in an exclusive

palladium and silver alloy by Fope.

Gold and diamond “Cleopatra”

earrings by JJ Jewels.

Artist rendering of the new atrium for the future Vicenza fair.

The international gold, gems, jewellery, and related equipment event at VicenzaOro
First ended on a positive note with a record 19,000 first-time admissions and an
8-percent increase in foreign buyers plus an increase of 2.5 percent in Italian
buyers over last year, who came to see the products of 1488 exhibitors from
Italy and 30 foreign nations. Fair officials had more to be happy about than
the increased participation of prospective buyers, and announced a number of
initiatives aimed at helping the Italian jewellery industry, explaining, “with markets
changing, the Italian jewellery sector must orient itself towards new directions.
Craftsmanship, manufacturing, innovation, and new communication make up the
competitive edge of the ‘Made in Italy’ label, representing the added values of
Italian jewellery that will serve as a springboard for launching such excellence
throughout the world.”

FDV 2011/15
The major change announced by the fair was a five-year strategy, called FDV
Gold, diamond, and gemstone 2011/15, whose goals are “consolidating the fair’s identity and focusing on
bracelet by Talento. the very essence of Italian jewellery, made of fine craftsmanship and research,
38
 Enamel and silver bead bracelet by Bliss.

renewing its own exhibition concept, and

launching new initiatives with the intention
of bringing excellent ‘Made in Italy’ products
to markets worldwide. This ambitious plan is
intended to confirm Fiera di Vicenza as not only a central element
of the worldwide exhibition system with particular reference to the
jewellery sector, but also as a place of aggregation for Italian excellence
and as a generator of cultural contents, ideas, and visions capable of
offering creative thrusts to businesses.” Gold and rutilated quartz ring by Giovanni Ferraris.
It is no secret that over the last few years, the Italian (and global) jewellery
sector has suffered, mostly due to a drop in demand and an increase in the
cost of gold. Encouraging signs of recovery for Italian jewellery exports came Gold and gemstone ring by Nanis.
in 2010, and the trend seems to be continuing in 2011. To take advantage
of this trend, the FDV 2011/15 project will focus on the overall renovation
of the exhibition space, a powerful web presence, important
collateral events, the creation of a real reference network,
and the establishment of new infrastructures and fair
formats aimed at specific market segments. “A change
of route is necessary for a sector in profound
evolution whose key words are coherence and
Diamond and gold “Daphne” ring by Casato.
concreteness,” stated Fiera di Vicenza chairman,
Roberto Ditri.
Corrado Facco, the fair director added, “Our
aim is to become the main point of reference Black diamond and pink gold
bracelet by Mattia Cielo.
in Europe for jewellery alongside Basel and
at the same time back up the fair events with
initiatives that animate and stimulate the companies
and the town: shows, events, and installations to involve the
surrounding territory as is the case in the most modern fair events
all over the world.”
Another element in the fair’s future activities is its active collaboration
with international organizations such as the United Nations Institute for
Training and Research, CIBJO, and the Responsible Jewellery Council to
promote corporate social responsibility and ethical mining and manufacture.
“The guarantee of ethics along the entire supply line is a specific request
of consumers, representing a strong element of the marketing mix and a
fundamental competitive edge,” said fair organizers.

Design Directions Gemstone and gold “Boule” rings by Chimento.

The Nature theme was one of the main trends at this year’s fair, with snakes,
butterflies, flowers, leaves, and the marine environment playing key roles.
Colour was again prominent, continuing its trend in both gemstones and
enamel, along with various colours of gold. Diamond jewellery, both white and
fancy colours, remains a staple of Italian creativity, while silver has become
the “new gold” as its glacial tonality is used to create elegant and fashionable
designs. Freeform, organic, and textured looks continues to gain ground while
rough stones, both diamonds and coloured gems, namely sapphires and
emeralds, evoke a return to the natural environment. Lacy openwork pieces
were seen in many collections, offering impressive pieces with lighter weights
of precious metals.
Diamond and gold “Blooming” brooch by Zydo. 39
 marketplace

Ownership Changes Ebony, gold, and diamond bracelet

Richline Group, Inc., by Raffaella Mannelli.
a wholly-owned
subsidiary of
Lacy gold necklace by Daniela Neri.
USA-based
Berkshire
Hathaway Inc.,
announced
the acquisition of
Arezzo-based Rosato Srl. “This is a great opportunity for my
brand to grow and expand globally. I am sure we will be able to
let the real Italian jewellery design be known and appreciated,”
stated Simona Rosato. Richline president, Dave Meleski, added,
“Simona Rosato and her team are the most innovative group in
Italy and, with our financial support, they will be able to again
focus on product and brand innovation. Rosato will once again
Lacy gold cuff by DML. excite the market and enable their loyal customers to expand their
own market share.”
On another note, Gitanjali Gems Ltd, India’s largest jewellery retailer,
which had purchased Italian brand Valente Milano last September,
announced the acquisition of a 90-percent stake in Milan-based Giantti Italia
S.R.L., through its Dubai-based wholly owned subsidiary Gitanjali Ventures
DMCC. Its press release also indicated that it would “pay about $11 million for
the Italian brands Stefan Hafner, IO Si, Porrati, and Nouvelle Bague grouped
under the BLU Srl umbrella, with funds going to their creditors, and would inject
another $10 million over a year into the companies. The brands were previously
owned by now bankrupt DIT Group, a unit of Dubai debt-laden jewellery group
Damas International.”

Gem World and Glamroom

Gold mesh ring by Now staple components of the VicenzaOro scene,
The Fifth Season. the two sections of Gem World and Glamroom
grouped together gem dealers and jewellery
designers, respectively, who showcased a
wide variety of products. Among the many
interesting Glamroom participants was
returning German brand Bastian, offering
a selection of modern silver creations set
Gemstone and recycled gold earrings by EcoJewel. with diamonds, and Italian brand EcoJewel
showcasing pieces made from enamel and precious,
recycled materials (gold and silver from old jewellery and manufacturing
scraps). This year, EcoJewel also featured
elegant jewellery made from recycled gems
taken from jewellery that was destined
to be melted or dismantled—a perfect
match for the brand’s recycled gold
and silver.
Vicenza will again be in the global
spotlight for fine jewellery at its
Natural sapphire necklace by Yvel. spring fair, May 21 to 25, 2011.
(www.vicenzafiera.it)

Micro-mosaic, gemstone, and gold “Cupola” ring by Le Sibille.

40
 mar k e t p l ace

Jewels in the Desert

While many parts of the USA were buried in snow, jewellery brands
and gem dealers came to the desert city of Tucson to showcase
their products at a variety of events.

By Cynthia Unninayar Zultanite and diamond ring

by Erica Courtney.

During the month of February, the southern Arizona

city of Tucson became the prime destination for
gemstone and jewellery buyers and designers.
The shows kicked off with the prestigious by-
invitation-only Centurion jewellery event, which
took place in an elegant resort hotel. Then,
Multi-coloured gemstone earring by Bellarri.
AGTA, GJX, GLDA, and AGGJS opened their
doors to thousands of gem dealers and buyers—
Zultanite and
diamond earrings as well as an increasing number of jewellery
by Rhonda Faber designers—from around the globe. While these
Green. shows were limited to the trade, the rest of the
Diamond and eco-gold
“Globo” earrings by
city opened hotel rooms, tents, trailers, and just about
Garavelli. everything else to the public, where thousands of collectors, connoisseurs,
and the simply curious could shop for a wide variety of gemstones, minerals,
fossils, sculptures, and just about anything else related to the world of stones.

Centurion, Laid-Back Luxury

Celebrating its tenth anniversary this year was Centurion,
a show that we could very well categorize as “Laid-Back
Luxury.” In an ambiance that was warm, intimate, and relaxed,
retailers were able to examine and purchase a wide variety
of products from Centurion’s upmarket brands. And, it
seems that purchase they did, this year, as the recovery
gets underway. “Exhibitor and retailer reports coming
throughout and after Centurion 2011 reflected
great satisfaction with this year’s event quality
and results,” stated Centurion president Howard
Hauben, adding that show attendance was
strong, and up “36 percent over the 2010
show.” It was also announced that next year’s
show will move to a location in the Phoenix area.
Amethyst and gold ring by Centurion Emerging Designer, William Belack
Now in its second year, Centurion’s Emerging
Designer contest produced six winners who were
given display space at the show. They represented
diverse facets of fine jewellery design from around
the world, and offered retailers a look at new
approaches and new faces. This year, Centurion
also held its first Design Awards Competition, judged
by retailers from all over the USA who voted for more Agate
than 80 exhibitor entries in 11 categories. “The calibre of and diamond
creativity of each entry was simply amazing,” said Centurion President pendant by S&R
Designs.
Howard Hauben, who added that it will become an annual event.
42
 Silver necklace in the “Veritas”
collection by Franco Pianegonda.

Rutilated quartz and black

diamond earrings by Suna Bros.

Matching diamond wedding bands by Furrer-Jacot.

Lots of Colour
In spite of the weather issues in much of the USA,
the AGTA fair reported a five-percent increase in Platinum and diamond ring by
buyer attendance from last year. “It was nice to see Norman Silverman (winner,
an increase in traffic, but the real success of the show Centurion’s Bridal category).
was the atmosphere on the show floor, with a significant
upswing in buying activity,” stated Douglas K. Hucker, Platinum and pear-shaped diamond (34.22 cts)
necklace by Uneek Jewelry (winner, Centurion’s
AGTA CEO. Buying was reportedly strong for finished Platinum category).
products as well as loose coloured stones as retailers
realize the importance of adding colour to their product
line-up as a way to improve profitability.
Good interest and traffic was also seen in the Spectrum
of Design Pavilion, outside of the main AGTA halls. Paula
Crevoshay reported that this show’s traffic was higher than
ever in the past, declaring that “The show proved to be the most
successful from the last 30 years.”
More international in nature, the GJX housed a wide range of
gem dealers, jewellery manufacturers, small brands, and artisans,
as well as national pavilions for many nations such as Germany and Brazil,
among many others.
Yellow and white diamond bracelet
by Goldstein Diamonds.

Mikado diamond and gold bracelets by A.Link.

43
MARKETPLACE
Necklace in argentium sterling
silver, forged and woven, with
garnets by Centurion Emerging
Designer, Valerie Ostenak.

“Soufflé” pearl necklace by

Sea Hunt, diamond clasp by
Lornie Mueller, Lithos Jewelry.

Just about every colour, size, shape,

notable increase in rough and sliced coloured
Paraiba and green tourmaline
earrings by Golconda.
and cut of stone could be seen
at these Tucson shows. While no
specific trend or colour was observed, there was a
gems, from
emeralds to sapphires to diamonds, which designers will be
quick to add to their “natural” finished jewellery collections that continue
to gain in popularity. Rutilated quartz in all colours was a favourite of
many jewellers, as were the various hues of spinel and tourmaline.
The Turkish-mined zultanite was the focus of much attention at
Centurion where a number of well-known jewellery designers used
this enigmatic colour-changing variety of the mineral diaspore in a
range of beautiful creations.

Raw diamond earrings

by Todd Reed.

Golden pearl, diamond, and gold earrings by

Centurion Emerging Designer, Kavant.

Onyx and diamond ring by Umane.
In terms of pearls, the traditional strands of
all colours were in abundance, as were
lariats mixed with gems and diamonds.
A few necklaces of rare conch
pearls were seen at both Centurion
and the gem shows. Among the more
unusual pearls that attracted attention were the
very lightweight “Soufflé” pearls, so-named by Jack
Lynch of Sea Hunt Pearls. He explained that these
large freshwater pearls are half the weight of the normal
freshwater variety because they are hollow. He suggests
that the pearl growers probably placed something in the pearl
sac—perhaps some sort of mud—that would dissolve and break down during
the growth process, thus leaving a hollow but sturdy lighter weight pearl.

Conch pearl necklace by Tara.

44
marketplace

IIJS Signature 2011

Show report
The IIJS Signature 2011 opened its doors in its new
Mumbai location this year for the 4th edition of this
renowned international show. CIJ Trends & Colours’
Alexandra Montandon was there to follow events and
discover new jewellery trends.

By Alexandra Montandon

The Show
The IIJS Signature Show is particularly appreciated for its focus on precious
jewellery, loose diamonds and coloured gemstones and its recent move from Goa
to Mumbai has allowed the organisers to introduce new features to the show. A
new “Signature Club” section is specially dedication to companies manufacturing
high-end jewellery, and a new International Pavilion exhibits international
designers from around the world. Mumbai now represents the jewellery
hub of India with two shows in January and August and confirms India’s
place as a major player in the gem & jewellery industry.

Exports up an impressive 15.52 percent

The Indian jewellery industry showed a remarkable increase in exports in 2010
with figures up 15. 52 percent (US$ 37,118.42 million) compared to 2009, which
was supported by a strong domestic market. In a face-to-face interview, Mr. Rajiv
Jain, Chairman of the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC)
and Mr. Sanjay Kothari, GJEPC Vice Chairman underlined that India embraces
competition that will in turn help to encourage the Indian manufacturers to
continue to increase their quality. “If we are good enough, we fear no other country,”
explains Jain. The difficult economic situation had a positive effect as it obliged
more innovation and more creation. “The trend is less gold and more stones, the
jewellery looks bigger and is less expensive,” he continues. Both Jain and Kothari
are very confident in the role that the GJEPC can play on the world market, adding
46
that the growing community will help the global market and as Jain explains,
“As long as women are on earth, jewellery will always be worn.”

New initiatives
One of the Council initiatives is to bring together a pool of Indian artisans in
workshops who will train under the guidance of international specialists. The
goal is to help these artisans to complement their traditional crafts with more
cutting edge techniques.

Exhibitors
IIJS Signature 2011 registered 400 exhibitors with approximately 800 booths
this year. Delegations from the UK, UAE, Thailand, Libya, Vietnam, Azerbaijan,
Uzbekistan and Myanmar were all present. The feedback from the exhibitors
was extremely positive; they all found the show to be a very good platform to
meet customers. Some remarked that the new Mumbai show was more
exclusive, with fewer people in the halls, but that there was far more
time to sit down and discuss with retailers, which they appreciated.

“India Show” at BaselWorld 2011

An “India Show” will take place at BaselWorld 2011 with 60
Indian manufacturers in attendance. The Indian government
has offered its complete support to the GJEPC and its presence at
BaselWorld as part of a national government campaign to promote
Indian culture at the global level.

BaselWorld will have a taste of India this year with Indian cuisine in the
restaurant in Hall 6, traditional dance from different regions of India performed
in front of Hall 1, and a presentation of high-end jewellery pieces in the India
Gallery in Hall 2. So if you didn’t make it to Mumbai this year, don’t miss a
selection of India’s finest artistic creations at BaselWorld.
47
editorial & advertisers index

A. Link 43 Couture Show 45 Gumuchian 3, 19 Meche 25 Stuller 16

Aaron Basha 33 Cynthia Gale 16 Heather Moore 25 Metalsmith Sterling 23 Suna Bros 43
Agatha Ruiz De La Prada 31 Daniel Espinosa 23 HH Gems 30 Mi Piaci 14 Swarovski 13, 29
Alberian & Aude 22 Daniela Neri 40 Hidalgo 21 Mirella 26 Syna 27
Alexandre Herchcovitch 24 Daniela Swaebe 19 ICA Congress Brazil 37 Misis 33 Talento 38
Alpilex CIII David Lin Jades 19, 26, 28 IIJS 46-47 Monique Lhuillier 19 Tara 44
Antonini 19 Diamond Shadows 27 Isaac Mizrahi 21, 28 Naeem Khan 25 Tarditi 18
Aspire Designs 11, 21, 22, 33 DML 40 Isabelle Langlois 30 Nanette Lepore 14 The Fifth Season 19, 40
Assael Intl CII, 1, 21, 27, 32 Dolce & Gabbana 20 Ivanka Trump 27 Nanis 39 Ti Sento 24
Audemars Piguet 36 E&V Jewellery 20 Jewellery Theatre 23, 31 Nary Manivong 12 Tibi 16
Autore 28, 32 Eclat Jewels 30 Jewelmer 5, 8, 20 Norman Silverman 43 Toby Pomeroy 18
Bangkok Fair 41 EcoJewels 40 JJ Jewels 38 Ole Lynggaard 23, 25 Todd Reed 44
Bapalal Keshavlal 23, 9, 12 Elena Martinico 31 John Apel 22, 26 Opera Omnia CI, 6-7, 16 Tommy Hilfiger 18
Bastian 18, 38 Ella Moss 18 Jolie B. Ray 16 Oscar Heyman 32-33 Tosca Blu 28
BCBG Max Azira 23 Erica Courtney 42 Jorg Heinz 18 Paula Crevoshay 12 Tresor 12, 30
Bellari 42 Etienne Perret 27, 29 K. Brunini 26 Piaget 20, 34-35 Tsumori 30
BK Jewellery 17 Fope 38 Kavant 44 Pippo Perez 33 Umane 44
Bliss 39 Franco Pianegonda 43 Kenzo 26 Raffaella Mannelli 22, 40 Uneek Jewelry 43
Bogh-Art 16 Frederick Goldman 27 Le Sibile 40 Ralph Lauren 36 Unicorn 21
Bosway 18 Furrer-Jacot 43 Leaderline 29 Ramon 10, 14, 22, 24, 28 Utopia 18
Brioni 26 Garavelli 27, 42 LeVian 23 Rebecca Taylor 16 Vajra 20
Bruner 18, 29 Garel 24 Lithos Jewelry 33, 44 Rhonda Faber Green 42 Valerie Ostenak 44
Cappellini 31 Gay Frères 20 Lorenz Baumer 31, 33 Richard Mille 36 Valerio B 14
Carla Amorim 22 Geen G 18, 21 Lornie Mueller 33 Roberto Coin 24 Van Cleef & Arpels 32, 34-35
Carlos Campos 19 Giovanni Ferraris 39 Luca Carati 22 Rodney Rayner 19 Vendorafa 19
Carlos Miele 27 Girard Perregaux 36 Luciano Padovan 20 Rosato 25 Vianna 14, 19
Cartier 34-36 GJEPC CIV Luxenter 24 Rosy Blue 15 William Belack 42
Casato 16, 28, 39 Golconda 44 Manoel Bernardes 20 Sakgen Denmark 18 Yael Designs 23, 31
Charlotte Ronson 14 Goldesign 12, 20 Manya & Roumen 32 Salvini 25 Yael Sonia 14
Chimento 39 Goldiaq 21, 29 Marco Bicego 31 Scott Kay 26 Yvel 40
Chisato 30 Goldstein Diamonds 43 Masriera 21 Sevan 14 Zîgman 22
CIJ Jewellery
Christophe Guillarme Ad
29 12/6/10
Gottex4:31
33 PM Page 1 Mathon Paris 16, 28 Staurino 29 Zorab 21
Commelin 25, 32 Guilherme Duque 30 Mattia Cielo 39 Stephen Webster 12, 32 Zydo 39

GABRIEL OFIESH

SARAH ALICE BRITTON

DIANA WIDMAN

at PLANET HOLLYWOOD - JUNE 4-6, 2011

LAS VEGAS JEWELRY WEEK

NICHE: The Show is an exclusive June 4-6, 2011

collection of artist-designers from Planet Hollywood Celebrity
Ballroom (Mezzanine Level)
the U.S. and Canada presenting
fine handcrafted jewelry, glass,
REGISTER TODAY!
Complimentary registration
ceramic and wood objects to for qualified retailers.
qualified retailers from across www.NICHETheShow.com
the globe. +1.410.889.2933 ext. 272
LYNNE MEADE

80
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