Professional Documents
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As in any other industry, to 7. Monitor progress against plan and know about the steady
remain competitive manufacturers 8. Re-plan as required and return to automation of their industries.
need to: Point 5. The clothing industry is still very
● Deliver on time In an ideal world, this cycle would heavily dependent on human labour,
● Improve productivity be carried out in a systematic way. No despite increasing use of automated
● Respond quickly plan is ever perfect, but all that we processes. Add to this the whims of
● Reduce WIP have learned about total quality the fashion market, which cause
● Deliver to a price management reminds us that we must constant style changes (equivalent to
● Reduce excess costs such as aim at the ideal rather than settle for the constant engineering changes that
overhead ‘Acceptable Quality Levels’ that have manufacturing engineers so hate),
● Introduce best practices a built-in failure rate. Although the and you have huge difficulty in
● Achieve accurate and consistent first priority is the customer delivery achieving efficiencies and optimising
information. date, the factory must also consider operator skills. If you can keep a team
Fire-fighting is no longer an the best place to make each product, of operators making the same
option. Change is essential in order taking into account both skill type of product as long as possible,
to survive, and good control is and machine constraints. Production production loss is minimised.
fundamental. Failing to plan results efficiency depends upon this. In The plan must also consider the
in bottlenecks, unnecessary style the clothing industry, planning will specialist support areas. Working
changes, lack of prioritisation, and typically focus on sewing, as it can back from the sewing plan, it is
unclear order status. The result is loss account for up to 80% of the skill and necessary to calculate where the
of customer confidence and loss of resources required. However, the loading will impact resources. The
future orders. capacity constraints of supporting plan must then allow for post-sewing
“The key word is value. How areas also have to be assessed. In operations such as garment washing
can a company create the particular, the pre-production events (where relevant), otherwise the
most value for its customers must be planned to ensure that sewing plan will be acceptable but
and thus reap the profit production begins on schedule. WIP builds up in the other areas.
growth needed to sustain the Critical path analysis is a vital tool in
company?” this process – if the plan moves, so
BASIC CAPACITY
The solution is to install a must the priorities.
CALCULATIONS
systematic and detailed approach to
production planning, but the textile In the clothing industry, most COPING WITH PLANNING
industry is notoriously traditional. In companies still work to standard
too many businesses, departments minutes, which is the calculated or Most business systems offer some
still operate as functional ‘islands’. measured standard time to produce a capacity planning, often limited to
Managers may talk to each other garment. A basic calculation may be rough cut capacity planning. Many of
but work is unco-ordinated and as follows: these systems are not graphical, are
ineffective. ● 8 working hours per day = 480 complex to use, and not user-friendly.
minutes Many use spreadsheets, which are
THE PLANNING PROCESS IN ● 10 operators per team often well-applied but they have
CLOTHING MANUFACTURE ● Capacity = 4800 minutes per day several drawbacks:
● Standard Minutes for T-shirt style ● They are designed by one person
The basic process includes the a = 12 std min @ 100% efficiency = and not transparent
following stages: 4800/12 = 400 pieces per day ● They are not visual
1. Receive the order However, it may be necessary to ● They cannot be shared on
2. Plan to check if there is available take into account the skills and a network and therefore limit
capacity in sewing to achieve the efficiency of different teams, or the co-ordination
delivery date required ability of a team to make different ● They do not highlight problems
3. Plan to check the available products. For instance, if a team clearly
capacity in non-sewing areas (cut, normally make woven garments, to ● They are cumbersome and
embroidery; print, wash and pack) change to a knitted T-shirt means that difficult to manage with large
4. Plan to check sufficient lead time they are less skilled at handling that numbers of orders
to order and receive fabric, trims, item of clothing. If they can only ● They are very difficult to amend
approve sample, carry out lab tests achieve 75% efficiency, the output is when customer requirements change.
5. Confirm delivery date to customer only 300 pieces per day. The impact These systems therefore do not
and reserve capacity on the production plan is huge. give answers quickly enough for
6. Communicate plan to all Many readers will be used to the dynamic world of the fashion
departments volume manufacturing of widgets industry. A system named Fast React
designed to overcome these problems customer (to which they at that time be made as a result of changes in
is now used in over 25 countries sent about 70% of production), with 3 consumer demand
world-wide. The case study described other main customers. Now they only ● Allocate garments to appropriate
here demonstrates how the supply one customer. The changes factories to achieve customer
implementation of a comprehensive included: requirements (even though the PE is
planning system can contribute to ● From flow line production to looking at planning at an aggregated
efficiency and productivity gains. production cells, with team-working level and looks at every operator as
and multi-skilling 2200 minutes per week, they must
● JIT approach to inventory consider the skill levels in each factory)
CASE STUDY:
● Strategic partnerships with ● Control of Critical Path.
A MANUFACTURER OF
LADIES WEAR FOR THE UK fabric suppliers to gain shorter
RETAIL SECTOR lead times Duties of the Factory Planner
● Service orientation rather than
The company, which produces ladies product orientation ● Take information from PE
wear for a well-known high street ● Changed emphasis from volume and loads factory appropriately,
retailer, has 3 manufacturing sites of output to accuracy of output. scheduling and sequencing work in
in Scotland and 1 in Turkey. In These changes were facilitated line with delivery schedule
Scotland they employ 450 direct through increased emphasis on ● Work closely with Factory
staff and around 300 in-directs in planning and control activities. Manager to ensure production
management, design, technical, Planning and buying activities have efficiency
cutting room, warehouse etc. In been merged and in 1997 Fastreact ● Liase with main fabric suppliers to
Turkey 125 operators and 45 Planning Software was introduced. order fabric.
in-directs are employed. The company Lead times and margins had
also owns a UK clothing retail chain become even tighter, and the need for Duties of Planner/Buyers (unique
that supplies low end of the market, really effective control became to this case)
factory seconds. critical.
● Detailed planning of work for each
The continued success of this The Planning and Control
line, using customer information-
company in this country (against the activities at this company include:
SMS (size management system) in
trend) is largely due to the nature of ● Long term capacity planning, up
store stock replenishment
their planning and control activities. to 18 months ahead
● Purchasing of unique fabrics and
These activities form the basis of a ● Short term detailed planning of
trimmings
very flexible and responsive relation- factory units
● Loading of cutting room (which in
ship with their main customer. The 1. Planning of cutting room activities
turn dictates the work of the sewing
supply of a quality product goes 2. Planning of sewing room activities
lines)
without saying: you are not in ● Production Control
● Use MRP to schedule deliveries
the market without guaranteed ● Inventory Control - raw material
and control inventory. Hold a
quality. The company must also purchasing, finished goods; Call off etc.
maximum of 2 weeks stock, which is
provide a quality service, facilitated ● Critical Path control.
low for the clothing industry.
through their commitment to The management structure
● Production Control - ensure that
planning and control issues. It includes a Planning Executive
quantities booked into warehouse
is the company’s service, responsive- (PE), Merchandising Executive, 4
match cut quantities – the cutting
ness and reliability that keeps them in Factory Planners (one for each
room is where the statement of intent
business. Together with the factory in factory), and 2 Planner/Buyers in
becomes a reality.
Turkey, it has an ideal combination: each factory. Huge amounts of human
● Turkey - for high work content, resource are devoted to planning
less fashionable garments, where lead and control activities - which is OPERATIONAL LEVELS
times are not as crucial unusual in traditional manufacturing ● PLANNING EXECUTIVE: We need
● Scotland - responsive and flexible to make 1000 of style 9966 by the end
organisations. of June. Which factory can do this?
factories for the more fashionable,
quick turn around garment, small ● FACTORY PLANNER: We need to
Duties of the Planning Executive make 250 of style 9966 each week,
orders. for 4 weeks. Which line will we use?
● Liaise with Customer and ● PLANNER/BUYER: This week we
ACHIEVING SUCCESS Merchandising Executive to establish need to make 50 size 10s 100 size
12s etc.Is the fabric in? Are all the
requirements for this season and other accessories in? When does the
In the early nineties the company next cutting room need work? Did every-
● Agree delivery schedules thing we cut go into the warehouse?
underwent huge changes, responding
to the changing needs of their main ● Respond when changes need to
USING FASTREACT TO ● It is very easy to explore ‘what ifs’ It is very easy to make extravagant
FACILITATE PRODUCTION with this software. By moving promises to customers, but at the end
products around to see delivery of the day the business still has to
The most extensive use of this soft- consequences, the system supports a make a profit. To ensure customer
ware is at the level of the Planning simulation process. Information and satisfaction it is essential to know the
Executive and Factory Planner, requests from the merchandiser implications of bringing production
where supply and demand must be (directly from customer) can be easily forward, stepping up production,
reconciled. The software facilitates: and quickly explored, and accurate slowing down lines and so on. If the
● Loading and scheduling of the answers can be given to the customer, simulation has been carried out, the
factories appropriately to achieve after having explored the options customer can be given a confident
required customer delivery through the simulation. answer.
● Operator reconciliation Before the introduction of this
● Financial reporting tool, planning was done using Excel
● Critical Path Management.
SETTING UP THE SYSTEM
Spreadsheets. This precluded the
Each factory has a planning board integration of information. The To set up production, certain
which when loaded with styles looks factory plan was separate both information must be entered:
like a very colourful Gantt chart, from the financial plan and from 1. Product reference
each colour giving the Planner the operator reconciliation. Making 2. Order reference
important information (see Figure 1 changes and exploring ‘what if’ 3. Order quantity
[2]). Key features of the system scenarios was a lengthy and compli- 4. Delivery schedule required by
include: cated business. At the time, orders customer- dozen garments per week
● Transparency: it is a very visual were larger, returns in general were 5. Selling price per dozen
system that makes it easy to see what higher, changes were less frequent, 6. Cost per dozen
is going on, layout, colour but this is certainly not the case now. 7. Return per dozen
● It ties a huge amount of A new system was essential to cope 8. Work content- standard hours per
information together with the changes in the business. dozen.
FIGURE 1
A typical apparel manufacturing planning board will look like the image above. All of the
essential information on loading, order delivery, pre-production issues, work in progress, efficiency etc.
are immediately visible to all security cleared users. A planner no longer needs to spend 50% of their time
answering queries from sales, purchasing, finance or buyers, the information is clear and accessible
This order then appears in a load of working, or by common sense and ● Efficiently
list (an order book) listing the order good practice. ● Cost effectively
reference and the quantity to be Each activity or event is allocated ● Responsively
loaded onto the plan. The order can to a responsible person. Only key ● Flexibly
then be lifted from the load list events - things that must happen ● With a huge amount of effort
and placed appropriately onto the before a garment can go into on Planning and Control.
planning board. This board is set out production – are included. For The new software system
as per the factory ie. line 1, 2, 3 etc., example: contributed enormously to this
with the number of operators on each ● Label Information- unique product particular company’s success by
line specified. As the order is dropped numbers used to control products integrating essential information.
onto the board, the system works out throughout the whole client system However, it must be combined with
automatically the rate of production, ● Quality Seals from customer the very real understanding the
based on the information already in (standards- aesthetics, fit, durability planners have of the organisation’s
the system. The strip will then turn a etc) objectives and the customers’
certain colour, giving the Planner ● Wearer trials requirements. It is this combination,
information about the implications ● Fabric approved- colour, print etc. together with a willingness to change,
of their actions. If the strip colour is Each week the Planning Executive that has helped them to survive.
grey, no delivery problems are produces a ‘to do list’ for each
forecast. The colour changes as responsible executive. This list relates REFERENCES
appropriate indicating potential late exactly to where the order is on the
and very late schedules. The display planning board. If the order moves [1] Chase R, Jacobs F & Aquilano N,
on the board can be changed, and forward or backward, so too do the “Operations Management for
instead of delivery information being dates on the Critical Path. The anchor Competitive Advantage”, (10th Edt.)
relayed via colour, it can be product date is the production start date. McGraw-Hill, 2004.
information, or customer information The first event might need to take [2] Copies of the slide are available
for example. place 4 weeks before the production from the authors.
Once the board is loaded up start date. If the production start date
completely, an operator reconciliation is pulled forward for whatever reason,
is completed, showing how many the system automatically highlights About the authors
operators are available against the the potential problem. The Planning
Philippa Collins PhD is a
number needed to complete the plan. Executive is then required to make a
Senior Lecturer, School of
A plan can then be printed, which decision to
Management and Languages at
provides the work instructions. ● postpone the start date
Heriot-Watt University. Her
Responsibility then devolves to ● pull strings
research focuses on the impact
the factory manager and the ● rush the pre-production process
of technology on management
planner/buyer to ensure the plan is along!
and working practices, with
achieved. The difference now is, that the special reference to virtual
The factory works until 11:30 on a managers know what the decision organisations. She publishes
Friday, at which time all production has been. Instead of getting the regularly, including Virtual and
stops and a weekly total is calculated production line set up; the operators Networked Organisations .
for each line and style. This trained; the fabric in; before finding Sarah Glendinning MA
information is then used to update the that the label information is (Hons), MSc currently lectures
planning system. The strip size will unavailable for the next 2 weeks, this on operations management and
then be reduced to take account of total waste of effort can now be textile marketing in the School
the previous week’s production and avoided. Each week the responsible of Management and Languages,
the whole process then starts again, executive returns the list to the Heriot-Watt University. Before
responding to the ever changing Planning Executive who inputs the this she worked as a Production
customer demands. completed events on the system. This Planner and Buyer in the apparel
changes the status of the order on the manufacturing industry for
planning board. 4 years, after one year in the
MANAGEMENT OF THE electronics industry. Sarah is
CRITICAL PATH currently undertaking a
CONCLUSION Postgraduate Certificate in
Before a garment can go onto a Academic Practice, and is in the
production line, there is an enormous Only the fittest and leanest operations initial stages of researching the
amount of pre-production activity in this country will survive. If you are fashion retailing supply chain.
that must take place. This is some- still mass manufacturing clothing in
times dictated by the customers’ way the UK, then you are doing so: