GIL_026_7691_ 08_08:GIL_026_7691_08_08 9/9/08
ISSUE 09/08
HOW TO FIT WINDOWS AND
ROOF WINDOWS
Replacing window frames in what are
classed as standard brickwork openings is a
relatively simple task. What is involved is a
little more than extracting one frame and
inserting another of identical size. Wickes
offer a variety of window styles available in
PVCu and Softwood. We have windows
available in our stores for you to Take Away
or we can provide a Made-to-Measure service
in PVCu where the product can be delivered
direct to your home. There are 25 white PVCu
windows, 12 Softwood window frames,
excluding glazing and 3 styles of Roof
windows available from our Take Away range.
KEEP INFORMED
• Look for other Good Idea Leaflets
that could help you with your
current project.
• Check that your Good Idea
Leaflets are kept up to date.
Leaflets are regularly changed to
reflect product changes so keep
an eye on issue dates.
• If you would like to be put on our
mailing list for the Wickes Booklet,
call our Freephone number which
is:
0500 300 328
• Visit our website at
www.wickes.co.uk
12:05 Page 1
26
Our Made-to-Measure offer consists of 16
different styles of casement window in PVCu,
with a variety of glass options available.
Additionally, a number of Vertical Sliding
Sash styles are also available in PVCu.
These top quality, low cost, unbeatable value
Made-to-Measure windows will cope with
non-standard brickwork openings. Simply
speak to one of our Design Consultants
In-Store who will be able to offer advice and
order the windows to suit your requirement.
All windows are durable and well made,
making them ideal for both replacement
applications and the majority of new builds.
All Wickes PVCu and Softwood windows conform to Part L of the Building Regulations.
Part L is the section of the Build Regulations for England and Wales that sets the
standards for energy efficiency in buildings. The equivalent section of the Scottish
Building Regulations is know as Part J. This legislation is designed to ensure that
homes become more efficient in terms of the amount of energy they consume.
In the past the Building Regulations mainly applied to ‘new builds’. However these
recent changes also apply to refurbishment projects. This means, if you are planning to
change existing windows you will either need to have these installed and certified by a
member of FENSA (Fenestration Self Assessment scheme) or you can have the
windows and installation checked and certified by your local Building Control Office.
If the windows are being fixed into critical locations as defined in Part N of the Building
Regulations and shown in FIG.1, then toughened glass must be used. Only Wickes PVCu
Made-to-Measure windows fitted with toughened glass can be fitted in these locations.
Building Regulation Part B may also call for certain windows to be suitable for a means of
escape route in the event of fire. Our PVCu Made-to-Measure windows can be fitted with
egress hinges to achieve this, provided the necessary size is specified.
To comply with Building Regulations, ensure all applicable sizes and designs of opening
sashes allow for a suitable fire escape route. Typically the open window should have an
unobstructed emergency exit space of 0.33m2, with a minimum height and width of 450mm.
Side hung opening sashes are the most suitable, particularly in upstairs situations. Narrow top
hung sashes or vent lights are not appropriate. For escape purposes the bottom of the frame
opening area should not be positioned more than 1100mm from floor level.
Wickes offer an egress hinge for side hung opening PVCu windows that are available to Take
Away In-Store.
GIL_026_7691_ 08_08:GIL_026_7691_08_08 9/9/08 12:05 Page 2

FIG.1 Doors and side panels Windows • Manufacturer’s 10 year guarantee*

Shaded areas • Manufacturer’s 15 year sealed units
1 2 3 show critical
locations to
guarantee*
4 9 10 which * This does not affect your statutory rights
5 requirement N1
800mm

applies. These are ‘Severe Weather’ rated and

(i.e. glazing in have a white, low maintenance frame with
800mm areas multi-chamber profiles for strength and
1500mm
8 11 numbered thermal efficiency. These chambers are
Floor Level 2,4,5,6,7,8,11
6 7 reinforced with steel where necessary for
additional strength and security. The profiles
300mm 300mm are extruded to BS 7413 and under the
quality control restraints of BS 5750 Part 2.
All outer joints are welded for strength and
NOTE: You should always fit fire detectors / TAKE AWAY WINDOWS better weatherproofing. All windows are fitted
smoke alarms in the house to give early with a high security locking system activated
warning of potential danger. Remember to FIG.2 shows the range of PVCu Windows
by a key operated handle. The manufacture
test them regularly – it is no good if they available In-Store. This window range is of the window profiles is fully certified by the
don’t work. constructed from a robust 70mm profile and British Board of Agreement.
All our PVCu windows are designed for is fitted with 28mm double glazed sealed
No hardwood subframe is required with
internal glazing, which prevents the units. If you require sills for your window these windows. They are fitted directly into
removal of the glass by intruders from these are also sold separately In-Store. the brickwork opening.
the outside. When purchasing a Wickes PVCu window
For exterior beaded windows a similar level you can be assured that it is a quality SOFTWOOD WINDOW FRAMES
of security can be obtained by glazing with product. These windows have the following Take Away windows (Stocked In-Store)
security glazing tape. features and benefits: FIG.3 shows the range of unglazed softwood
The type of frame you choose i.e. softwood • Part L compliant window frames available in our stores.
or PVCu, will depend to a large extent on the Although glass is not supplied with these
• BBA accreditation frames, double glazed sealed units can be
style of your house and personal preference. • Double glazed with low ‘E’ glass obtained quickly and easily from a local glass
• Supplied with Trickle Ventilator(s) merchant. To ensure compliance with Part L
FIG.2 PVCu WINDOWS (Stocked In-Store) • Security glazed to BS 7412 of the Building Regulations you must ensure
Frame you fit 24mm thick double glazed Low E
Dimensions
Style Product PVCu Frame FIG.3
Code W x H (mm) TIMBER (Stocked In-Store)
Frame
146-816 610 x 1040 Softwood Sealed Units
Product Dimensions
146-830 610 x 1190 Style Required
Code W x H (mm)

146-815 610 x 1040

146-829 610 x 1190 201-868 634 x 921 1x 1 +1x 4
201-867 634 x 1073 1x 1 +1x 5
146-817 610 x 1040 201-879 634 x 1226 1x 1 +1x 6
146-831 610 x 1190 201-870 921 x 921 1x 2 +1x 8
146-818^ 610 x 1040 201-871 921 x 1073 1x 2 +1x 9
146-819 905 x 1040 201-872 921 x 1226 1 x 2 + 1 x 10
146-832 905 x 1190
146-820 1190 x 1040 201-875 1221 x 1073 1 x 3 + 1 x 11
146-833 1190 x 1190
201-876 1221 x 1226 1 x 3 + 1 x 12
146-821^ 1190 x 1040

146-823 1190 x 1040 Meets current

fire escape regulations 1221 x 1073 1 x 7 + 1 x 13
146-835 1190 x 1190
201-650 / 201-651
146-822 1190 x 1040
* Window is available either as shown or opposite.
146-834 1190 x 1190

146-824 1190 x 1040 Meets current

146-836 1190 x 1190 fire escape regulations
201-931 1808 x 1073 1 x 1 + 1 x 5 + 2 x 13
146-825 1190 x 1040 201-865 1808 x 1226 1 x 1 + 1 x 6 + 2 x 14
146-837 1190 x 1190
Sizes shown are external frame dimensions, including sill.
146-826^ 1190 x 1040 For opening brickwork dimensions add 5mm.

146-827 1770 x 1040 Glass Sizes

146-838 1770 x 1190 No. No. No.
1. 460 x 183mm 6. 546 x 821mm 11. 1133 x 668mm
146-828 1770 x 1040
146-839 1770 x 1190
2. 747 x 183mm 7. 546 x 973mm 12. 1133 x 821mm
3. 1047 x 183mm 8. 833 x 516mm 13. 460 x 892mm
^ = Obscure, Double Glazed Units
Sizes shown are external frame dimensions, 4. 546 x 516mm 9. 833 x 668mm 14. 460 x 1045mm
including sill. For opening brickwork dimensions
add 10mm. 5. 546 x 668mm 10. 833 x 821mm
GIL_026_7691_ 08_08:GIL_026_7691_08_08
glass sealed units. Dimensions of the glass
units to fit the windows are shown in FIG.3.
When purchasing a Softwood window frame
you can be assured of its quality, they have
the following features and benefits:
• FSC Certified timber materials
• 10 year guarantee* against
manufacturing defects
• 10 year guarantee* against fungal
attack or rot on frame
• Gold effect ironmongery
*This does not affect your statutory rights
Wickes Softwood window frames are made
from pre-treated timber and ideal for painting
or staining to match others in the house.
FIG.4
CASEMENT WINDOW STYLE
EXAMPLES
9/9/08 12:05 Page 3
MADE TO MEASURE WINDOWS
FIG. 4 shows the styles of Made-to-Measure
Casement windows available in PVCu. The
Made-to-Measure range has all the same
benefits as the Take Away range but allows
you greater choice of styles, glass option and
size.
The maximum size of sealed units in opening
lights or fixed panels is determined by Codes
of Practice approved by the Glass and
Glazing Federation. You do not have to calculate
FIG.5
MEASURE BRICK TO BRICK IN AT LEAST THREE
PLACES VERTICALLY AND HORIZONTALLY. NOTE
SHORTEST MEASUREMENTS
glass sizes yourself. When ordered, the frames
are made to conform so that the sealed unit
sizes and the sizes of opening lights are within
the limitations.
BEFORE YOU START
Check whether or not your old frames can
simply be replaced by one of our In-Store
windows, or you need to order a
Made-to-Measure window.
To calculate the frame size needed, you must
carefully measure the existing brickwork
opening size from the outside. Do not
measure the existing window frame, which
will be less than the brick opening. If the wall
around the existing window is rendered over
the frame, some of the rendering must be
chopped back to bare brick so that accurate
measurements can be taken. Measure in at
least three places on both the height and
width. See FIG.5.
If there is any variation in height or width,
note the shortest measurement in each
direction. These are the measurements to be
put on the order form in millimetres.
Vertical Sliding Sash
Single Double
Treble Vertical bar
2 Vertical Bar All bar
DO NOT deduct anything for clearance
purposes. The necessary allowance will be
made when the frame is built, since this
varies depending upon the window type.
Frames that are Made-to-Measure fit into
brick openings measured by you, and
therefore must be measured correctly in
order to fit. Remember, it is your responsibility
for getting those measurements right. Double
check your measurements for both height
and width, or get someone else to check for
you. Use the shortest height and width
measurements.
Once a frame has been made to suit the size
you have specified, mistakes cannot be
rectified and frames cannot be altered.
ADDITIONAL PRODUCTS
REQUIRED
Fixings to secure the frames to the
surrounding brickwork are not supplied.
For timber frames you will require 8 x 80mm
Frame Fixers (510-000) or 10 x 100mm
Frame Fixers (510-002) depending upon the
gaps between the frames and brickwork. The
screws should penetrate at least 32mm into
the brickwork.
For the PVCu frames you will need our
special PVCu Window Frame Fixers
(510-001 or 156-687).
All are in packs of 10 fixers.
Wickes Professional Woodstain in the colour
of your choice will also be needed for timber
frames, unless paint is preferred in which
case you should use Wickes Master Exterior,
Primer Undercoat and Exterior Gloss.
For timber frames you will also require a
Flexistrip Glazing Tape (207-564), frame
sealant and Decorators Filler for making
good.
For PVCu frames you will need Wickes
Decorators Filler, Wickes White Frameseal
and Wickes Expanding Foam Gap Filler for
the installation.
WORK SEQUENCE
1. Removing the old window
2. PVCu VSS windows
3. PVCu frames
4. Timber frames
1. REMOVING THE OLD WINDOW
This should not be done until your new frame
is on the premises and you have checked the
size and condition. You do not want an
opening left for an intruder to gain access to
the house.
NOTE: To reduce damage to the decorative
finish, carefully score around the window,
between the frame and the decorated wall
(this will only help if the plaster is in good
condition). Always assume that some
redecoration may be necessary.
Start the frame removal by unscrewing and
completely detaching any opening lights at
the hinges or by removal from the VSS
frame.
Rake out the putty holding the glass in timber
fixed lights and extract the small metal
glazing sprigs, which will be found at
intervals round the frame up against the
glass. You will have to use an old chisel or a
similar tool to chop out the old hard putty.
GIL_026_7691_ 08_08:GIL_026_7691_08_08
Take care not to break the glass.
Remove the glass completely and put
carefully aside. It may prove useful at some
later date. With all the glass and opening
lights removed you should be left with just
the old frame still attached to the brickwork,
probably with nails, so it needs to be literally
cut out of position. Start cutting through the
transoms or mullions as in FIG. 6, removing
them completely.
FIG.6
Follow this by cutting through the side jambs
at an angle about one third of the way up
from the sill. Take care not to damage
internal plastering with the saw blade.
If external rendering covers the outside edge
of the frame this rendering will have to be
chopped back to the brickwork. This will
firstly enable the old frame to be cut out and
later to allow the new frame to be inserted.
Insert a crowbar or similar tool behind the cut
jambs and lever away from the wall.
NOTE. Place a flat piece of waste wood of a
suitable size, between the brick / plaster and
the crowbar, this will reduce any damage to
the hard surface when pressure is applied.
Once you can get sufficient grip on the jambs
use your hands to completely pull out the old
timber as seen in FIG.7. Where the jambs
are mortised into the head and sill the tenons
should break away easily.
FIG.7
Remove the head and sill in similar fashion
cutting through them, then levering away.
Take great care with the head particularly, as
to not damage the internal plastering by
using this as a solid surface to lever against.
It is likely that the old frame head will still
have projecting ends (horns) embedded into
the brickwork at each side. Once the cut
head sections have been levered off the
nails, these projecting ends should pull easily
out of the wall. The resulting holes should be
filled with a mortar mix since they cannot be
used again. Once all the timber has been
removed, check the opening by removing old
nails and traces of old mortar used to in-fill
the gap between the frame and the brickwork
to leave a clean clear opening.
If you discover or even suspect that the old
timber shows signs of dry rot you should
treat the brickwork with Wickes All Purpose
9/9/08 12:05 Page 4
Wood Treatment. Brushing this on will kill any
remaining spores embedded in the masonry.
2. PVCu VSS WINDOWS
PVCu VSS windows are only Made-to-Order
and are supplied pre-glazed.
Window features:
A. Spiral sprung balance
Pivot bars are fitted to the bottom of the
sash. This allows the sash to tilt inwards for
easier cleaning.
All balances are pre-tensioned at the factory
before the window is despatched, however
some small adjustments may be necessary
on site.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to over
tension the balance. The balances should be
regularly maintained as per manufacturer’s
instructions.
B. Travel stops
Travel stops are positioned to the top and
bottom of the window, these are essential,
and ensure that the spring balances do not
become prematurely worn or damaged.
C. Tilt latches
Tilt latches provide a secure method of
retaining the sashes in the upright position
and also allow the sash to tilt when required.
They work by engaging the jamb profile to
provide an easy sliding movement without
the risk of the sash inadvertently dropping
into the tilted position.
D. Sash locks
As well as providing a secure lock, the sash
lock incorporates a sweeping cam to push
the sash into a fully closed position ensuring
a good seal at the head and sill of the
window and at the meeting rail.
E. Removing the vertical sliding sash
• Release both tilt latches inwards and
support the weight of the sash as you tilt the
sash into the room.
• Release the bar restrictor (if fitted) by removing
both screws from the sash slides and remove
the bar from the sash. Then lower the sash to
the horizontal position.
• Using a screwdriver prise the black plastic rivet
from its location holding the pivot bar in place.
• Slide the sash off the pivot bars – this
operation may require assistance to
ensure that the sash is not damaged.
NOTE: It is important to take care and make
sure that the balances are fully retracted and
that the sash is tilted in excess of 90º when
removing as failure to do so could result in
an injury.
Do not remove the travel stops.
F. Maintenance
To ensure your VSS windows provide the
best possible service it is important that the
following maintenance schedule is adopted:
• Clean the windows at regular intervals with
a propriety brand cleaner.
• Check that the balance fixing screw is
secure – but don’t over tighten the screw.
• Check that the bottom fixing bracket is
secured to the sash and not damaged or
distorted in any way.
• Check that the top pin roll in the spiral is
engaged in the pivot shoe and the
bottom roll.
• Check that the tube is not damaged
in anyway.
• If dirt and debris has built up at the bottom
end of the balance, this should be cleaned
with a cloth and re-greased.
Care should be taken not to contaminate the
pivot shoe or the slide channel.
• Check the travel stops are in place and
that the sashes move to contact the travel
stop without undue force. This will ensure
that the balances are not being either over
extended or crushed. Check that the
sashes run smoothly, if required adjust
balances as per manufacturers
instructions.
3. PVCu FRAMES
Made-to-Measure, Take Away, and
Made-To-Order.
Frames all come with the fixed glass
temporarily in place and without the sills, but
sash frames / opening lights within the
window are factory glazed so please DO
NOT try to remove the glass. The only work
you will need to do is fit the handle. (Minor
adjustment of the hinges may be necessary
if the window is fitted out of plumb).
For the Take Away PVCu windows, Sills and
handles are sold separately.
Made-to-Measure and Made-to-Order
windows are supplied with Sills and handles.
included.
FIG.8
INTERNAL EXTERNAL
Before installation of the frame remove all
the fixed glass. This is done by removing
the vertical beads from the securing nibs
by exerting pressure in the direction shown
in FIG.8.
Where the window is too big to handle
comfortably, we suggest that the sash
panel(s) are removed by unscrewing the top
and bottom hinge from the outer frame and
stored safely to be fitted after the window
frame is installed.
It may be necessary to use a wide bladed
stripping knife to help lever the beads out of
position but take care not to damage the
PVCu frame edges. Put the sealed units
safely aside resting on timber blocks and
leaning against a wall. Do not stack them flat
one on top of the other.
Fit the sill to the frame next. Drill 5mm
diameter clearance holes right through the
sill section from the underside as in
FIG.9 with holes at 200mm maximum from
each end and at 600mm centres in between.
Rest the sill on the frame with the upstand to
the inside of the frame. Drill 3mm pilot holes
through the centre of the sill clearance holes
into the mainframe. Remove the sill.
GIL_026_7691_ 08_08:GIL_026_7691_08_08
Run a bead of white silicone frame sealant
along the face of the sill upstand.
Replace the sill bedding well down onto the
silicone and secure with screws provided
(No.8 x 13/4" pan pozi). Do not overtighten the
screws, as this may distort the sill.
If overtightened slacken off slightly to remove
any distortions. FIG.10.
FIG.9
FIG.10
Wipe excess silicone from the joints. Using
more silicone as a seal and adhesive, fit the
sill end caps, pushing them firmly into place.
Use a little masking tape to hold them in
place until the silicone has cured. Clean off
excess silicone.
Lift the frame into the prepared opening.
Ideally there will be about 5mm clearance all
round the frame. Use wedges (wooden or
plastic) stretching from the inner edge of the
frame to the outer edge to set the frame
central, level, square and plumb in the
opening. Check for squareness by measuring
the frame diagonals, as seen in FIG.11. They
must measure exactly the same. Use a sprit
level to check they are set vertical and level
FIG.12.
FIG.13 shows the positioning of wedges
which have to be removed later or covered
over. Once the frame is set drill clearance
holes through the frame and into the
brickwork for the PVCu frame fixers. Holes
will be required at 200mm from accessible
corners, at the ends of prefixed hinges and at
maximum 600mm centres in between.
Countersink the frame for the screw heads.
Tap in the fixers. Tighten the screws so that
the frame is securely held but not so tight that
the frame is distorted or so that excessive
pressure pulls the welded frame joints apart.
Apply a small amount of silicone to the screw
shanks and heads to ensure that they are
sealed against the PVCu frame.
Alternatively, for internal fixing use the plastic
fixing lugs (provided). Twist / clip the lugs in
place on the edges of the window frame and
secure into the internal brick or breeze block.
NOTE: when using an existing opening the
9/9/08 12:05 Page 5
FIG.11
A B
LENGTH OF LINE (a) MUST EQUAL LINE (b)
FIG.12
FIG.13
SILL MADE LEVEL USING WEDGES
plaster should be chipped away, the fixing
lugs inserted and the fixings re-plastered
over. With 'New Builds' the fixings should be
plastered over to finish as normal practice.
GLAZING
We suggest that you start with the fitting of
the smallest sealed unit, since this will be
easier to handle. FIG.14 shows the location
of setting and spacer blocks for the frames.
Opening sash lights do not require toeing
and heeling as they are factory glazed.
They may however require minor hinge
adjustment to perfectly align the window.
Position setting blocks in the bottom of the
frame as in FIG.14.
Thoroughly clean the glass with a dry lint free
cloth especially around the perimeter of the
face which will be against the e-gasket. If this
is not clean and dry it will not adhere
properly. It is important to install the glass the
correct way around to gain full benefits of the
Low E coating. Check the glass label for
correct orientation. Place the sealed unit into
the frame resting on the setting blocks. Try to
keep the glass just clear of the exposed
glazing tape in the frame corners. Centralise
the unit in the frame, inserting spacer blocks
as necessary to ensure the sealed unit is
properly aligned within the frame, and the
frame is square.
After the positioning of the glass, fit the top
glazing bead into the frame. Ensure that the
nibs engage correctly as in FIG.15.
Now fit the bottom glazing bead and then the
side glazing beads in similar fashion. You will
note the side beads are formed to fit over the
top and bottom glazing beads.
FIG.14
EXAMPLE WINDOW TO SHOW BLOCK POSITIONS
HINGE
SIDE
150 mm
150 mm 150 mm 150 mm
SETTING BLOCKS - 1 FLAT PACKER + 2 WEDGES
PACKING POINTS - 1 FLAT PACKER + 2 WEDGES
PACKERS TO COINCIDE WITH LOCKING POINTS
WHERE POSSIBLE IF NOT ALREADY SUPPORTED
WEDGES MUST BE ADJUSTED TO PREVENT
MOVEMENT OF THE GLASS BUT MUST NOT CAUSE
FRAME DISTORTION
It will be necessary to exert some pressure
on the glazing beads to get them to engage
correctly. Complete all glazing for the window
as above.
FIG.15
INTERNAL
EXTERNAL
MAKING GOOD
The wedges used for the original setting of
the frame must now be removed. The gap
between the frame and brickwork must be
partially filled with Wickes Expanding Gap
Foam Filler. Do not attempt to fill in one
application. Since the foam cures by reacting
to moisture in the atmosphere you should
only apply layers about 15mm thick at a time.
Only when one coat of surface has cured
should you apply the next. It is helpful to
moisten the cavity with a water spray before
using the foam to improve adhesion and
curing but do not allow excess water to lie in
hollows.
Do not overfill the cavity since this would
cause the frame to bow inwards as the foam
expands and it does expand considerably.
Fuller instructions for the use of the foam will
be found on the container. Once the foam
has fully cured the external face of it should
be covered by a coat of white silicone frame
sealant, and internally by Decorators Filler.
GIL_026_7691_ 08_08:GIL_026_7691_08_08 9/9/08
FIG.16 shows the filled cavity. Do not infill the
gap around the frame with a rigid material
such as a mortar mix. The infill material must
be flexible to allow the PVCu to expand and
contract naturally.
FIG.16
EXTERNAL
INTERNAL
NOTE: A wise precaution is to use masking
tape to prevent the foam from coming into
contact with the front of the windows. This
tape should be peeled off immediately after
the foam has been applied.
4. TIMBER FRAMES
Take Away Timber Frame(s) are not supplied
with glass. Glass to the correct size can be
easily purchased from a local glass
merchant.
NOTE: Sizes can be found in FIG. 3.
Before starting, make sure you have
everything you need to complete the job. For
site glazed windows, the glass units must be
stacked on edge on timber battens, leaning
back at a slight angle against a firm support.
Take particular care not to damage corners.
Store the glass in a dry place where there is
no risk of it being knocked.
With the brickwork opening prepared, the
frame can be lifted directly into position from
the outside. There should be a gap of about
5mm from side to side and top to bottom
between the brick opening and the frame.
These gaps will allow the frame to be aligned
correctly and set squarely. Set the frame into
the opening so that the drip groove on the
underside of the sill is well clear of the
outside wall. Get the sill level first, using
durable wedges to push the frame head up
against the lintel above. Check that it is level
using a long spirit level, adjusting the wedges
as necessary.
Now align the jambs - the vertical frame
sides. They must be perfectly vertical. Again
use a spirit level on both the outside faces
and the glazing faces to check that they are
vertical. Use wedges to hold the frame in the
correct position. Check for squareness by
measuring the frame diagonals, FIG. 11.
They must measure exactly the same.
Adjust the thickness of the wedges if
necessary to ensure accurate square
positioning. As a final check un-latch the
opening lights to make sure they do open
freely. Secure the frame to the brickwork using
the frame fixers. Drill and countersink
clearance holes in the frame and through into
the brickwork 150mm from each corner and at
maximum 600mm intervals in between all
around. Alternatively fixing straps can be used.
12:05 Page 6
Keep the clearance holes in the centre of the
glazing rebate, where they will in due course
be covered by the glass. Knock in the fixers
and drive home the fixing screws taking care
not to distort the frame.
When painting, particular care must be taken
to ensure that paint does not get onto the
wool pile seals or moving parts of the
window.
Always take particular care when installing
factory finished timber windows to ensure
that the paint finish is not damaged prior to,
or during installation.
GLAZING TIMBER FRAMES
For installing double glazed units into Wickes
Timber Casement Windows with drained and
vented bottom beads.
The Glazing Strip system is now the
recommended way of installing double glazed
units into Wickes Timber Windows. With
drained and vented bottom beads, it is quick,
clean and simple to use and will not harden
or crack. When correctly applied and
maintained, it provides a weatherproof seal
and will protect double glazed units for up to
4 times longer than traditional methods.
Step 1 Remove all dust, grease and loose
material from the rebate. Any moisture on the
timber should be wiped off using a clean
paper towel or other absorbent material to
give a dry surface. Check that the unit fits into
the frame and can be correctly positioned to
facilitate drainage and ventilation. When
standing the unit on setting blocks check
there is a minimum 5mm edge clearance at
the bottom of the unit. It is important to install
the glass the correct way around to gain full
benefits of the Low E coating. Check the
glass label for correct orientation. The spacer
bar should ideally be level with the sightline
or slightly below.
Step 2 Starting at one corner, apply Glazing
Strip to the face of the unit with the bottom
edge of the backing paper aligned with the
edge of the unit. Cut the end of the Glazing
Strip and the backing paper flush with the
end of the unit using a sharp blade. Fold back
approximately 5cm of the backing paper from
each end to expose the strip sealant.
Step 3 Begin the application of the second
length of Glazing Strip by forming a butt joint
against one of the exposed sections of
Glazing Strip already applied. Do not overlap
the strip or leave gaps between adjacent
sections of strip and do not make
indentations at the joint. Continue by aligning
the backing paper with the edge of the unit
and cut the Glazing Strip and backing paper
as before.
Step 4 Continue to apply Glazing Strip along
the perimeter of the unit as described above
until you reach the final joint. When the fourth
length reaches the exposed section of the
first length, fold the strip back on itself and
cut through the backing paper and strip at the
crease so as to form a neat joint. Replace the
backing paper onto the strip at the four
corners. Carefully turn the unit over and apply
strip to the face of the unit following the same
method used for the first side.
Step 5 Position the setting block(s) on the
bottom rail as near to the quarter points as
possible as shown. Where more than one unit
per window is to be glazed, start by glazing
the bottom unit(s).
Step 6 Remove backing paper from one side
of the unit and position the bottom of the unit
on the setting block(s). Centralise in the
frame before the Glazing Strip makes contact
with the rebate upstand. Guide the unit back
until the strip sealant touches the rebate
upstand on all sides. Press firmly all the way
round the edge of the double glazed unit to
ensure that the Glazing Strip is compressed
between the unit and rebate upstand.
Step 7 If glazing an opening sash, insert
location blocks around the unit as shown in
FIG. 14.
Step 8 Remove the backing paper from the
strip facing you. Take the bottom bead and
place onto the platform. Apply as much
pressure as possible to the bead so that the
Glazing Strip is compressed between the
bead and unit. Pin the bead with pins
positioned no more than 50mm from either
end and not more than 150mm apart. There
should be a minimum of 2 pins for every
bead. Pin the side and top beads as
described above.
Step 9 Using a trimming knife, trim off the
excess strip sealant level with the sightline at
a slight angle so that water will be shed away
from the glass. The frame and sealant may
now be painted with water / solvent based
paint or woodstain. Regular maintenance of
the frame is essential to ensure maximum
performance of the glazing system and
double glazed unit.
MAKING GOOD
Once the frames are fitted and glazed you
should make good around the frame
perimeter on the outside using our Outdoor
Sealant. Internally use Decorators Filler. Treat
the timber with two applications of Wickes
Professional Woodstain in the colour of your
choice, sanding between coats or Wickes
Master Exterior Primer, Exterior Gloss if
painting is preferred.
NOTE: To comply with Building Regulations,
ensure all applicable sizes and designs of
opening sashes allow for a suitable fire
escape route. Typically the open window
should have an unobstructed emergency exit
space of 0.33m2, with a minimum height and
width of 450mm. Side hung opening sashes
are the most suitable, particularly in upstairs
situations. Narrow top hung sashes or vent
lights are not appropriate. For escape
purposes the bottom of the frame opening
area should not be positioned more than
1100mm from floor level.
GIL_026_7691_ 08_08:GIL_026_7691_08_08
WICKES ROOF WINDOWS
Wickes Roof Windows are the
easy, affordable way to shed
light on the unused loft space
in your home. Their function is
to let natural daylight and
ventilation into pitched roof
spaces whilst minimising noise
transmittance and heat loss.
Virtually maintenance free and
inexpensive to purchase and
install, Wickes Roof Windows
are an unobtrusive and
attractive way of lighting a loft
area to make it more usable.
These windows are fully
compliant with Building
Regulation Approved
Document L
(Doc J in Scotland).
In a full loft conversion
intended for habitable use, at
least one Means Of Escape
(MOE) roof window will be
required to comply with the
Building Regulations (1992) in
relation to Means of Escape in
Case of Fire.
ROOF WINDOWS
Description
Skylight
Roof Window - Centre Pivot
Roof Window - Centre Pivot
Roof Window - Centre Pivot
Roof Window - Centre Pivot
Roof Window - Centre Pivot
Roof Window Means of Escape
Tile and Slate Flashings are available seperately for all roof windows. Skylight is supplied with Flashing
9/9/08 12:05 Page 7
ROOF WINDOWS
The RW 7/9 Wickes Roof Window and
Means of Escape Roof Window are both
available from stock.
The windows are supplied separately
from the flashings which are used to
weather the windows into the roof surface.
Different flashings are available for both
tile and slate roofs.
The main features of the Wickes Roof
Window are:
• Available from stock.
• For installation in roof pitches between
15° and 85°.
• Manufactured from sealed solid
laminated softwood with a 24mm Low
‘E’ double glazed unit already installed.
• Centre pivoting sash for easy cleaning
from inside the loft (excluding MOE).
• Entirely factory assembled - you only
need to fit it.
• Easily fitted from inside - there is no
need to walk on the roof or install
scaffolding.
• Easy and rapid installation using the
unique fixing bracket.
• Complete with detailed fixing
instructions.
• Adjustable ventilators in the frame
admit fresh air even when the window
is closed.
• Easy to operate handle in the bottom
sash rail allows for venting in latched
position.
• The exterior finish of the window in
grey / brown polyester coated
aluminium blends in well with virtually
all roofing materials.
• Virtually maintenance free.
• All timber is preserved and finished
with two coats of varnish.
• Full range of accessories available -
ask In-Store for details.
WORK SEQUENCE
Full installation instructions are provided
with the windows but some advance
details may be of help.
1. Determine the position of the roof
window.
2. Prepare the opening.
3. Remove sash from frame of window.
4. Fitting the window and Flashing Kit.
5. Install flashing.
6. Refit tiles or slates and make good.
7. Refit the sash and top sash cover.
Size All Stores Extra Stores
W x H (mm) to Take Away to Take Away
450 x 550 G G
540 x 780
540 x 980
640 x 1180
740 x 980 G G
1140 x 1180
740 x 980 G G
1. DETERME THE POSITION OF THE
ROOF WINDOW
If your roof window is being fitted as part
of a full loft conversion for habitable use
you will need to observe your local
Building Control requirements. In
particular the requirement to install at
least one window in each space created
which will open to provide a minimum of
0.33m2 of slope opening (MOE provides
0.47m2). Our Means of Escape windows
meet these requirements and should be
installed as shown in FIG.17.
FIG.17
A
B
A = 1.7 METRES MAXIMUM
B = BETWEEN 600 AND 1100mm
NOTE: MOE windows must be located no
more than 1.7 metres from the roof eaves
and between 600 and 1100mm from the
loft floor to further comply with the
Regulations.
If the loft is to be accessed by a ladder for
occasional uses such as storage, then the
windows may be installed in any sensible
location. Ensuring that no part of the roof
structure such as the rafters, purlins or
struts are weakened by the window fitting.
2. PREPARE THE OPENING
Your roof will most likely be constructed
with tiles or slates on battens supported
on rafters. It may also have felt under the
battens and in some cases the roof could
be close boarded.
Whichever of these methods of
construction is used, the basic principles
of making a new opening are the same.
To avoid cutting tiles or slates at each
side of the new window, position it if
possible, centrally to suit the tile or slate
dimensions. Remember that the course of
tiles or slates immediately below the
FIG.18
G
G
G
G
NEW TIMBER FRAMING
GIL_026_7691_ 08_08:GIL_026_7691_08_08 9/9/08 12:05 Page 8

window must not be cut. If adjustment in
height is required then the course above
the window should be cut.
You will start by cutting away felt if any is
under the tiles, giving access to the
battening and tiles / slates. With a little of
the battening removed you will be able to
slide tiles into the loft. This creates the
necessary opening for the removal of a
section of rafter or batten and the
insertion of the new framework to which
the new roof window is eventually
secured. FIG.18 shows a typical new
opening.
3. REMOVE SASH FROM FRAME OF
WINDOW - Read instructions supplied.
5. INSTALL TILE OR SLATE FLASHING WICKES SKYLIGHT
- Read instructions supplied.
6. REFIT THE TILES OR SLATE
AND MAKE GOOD
With the frame and the flashing in place,
replace the tiles around the outside of the
frame following the instructions supplied. If
you need to cut tiles or slates use an
angle grinder or a tile cropper. Wear
gloves and goggles or, preferably, a visor
to protect your face and eyes.
7. REFIT THE SASH AND
TOP SASH COVER
As stated, full and very detailed fitting
instructions are supplied with the kits.

4. FITTING THE WINDOW AND
FLASHING KIT
The window frame (without the sash) is
fitted into the new opening using the
unique fixing brackets included with every
window.
The flashing is then fitted in accordance
with the instructions supplied with every
kit to complete the weatherproofing of the
window. FIG.19.
FIG.19
WICKES SKYLIGHT
The Wickes Skylight is a low cost, easy to
fit, fully assembled window.
It may be used for a number of reasons
including the replacement of existing
skylights of similar dimensions, as a
means of egress on to roof slopes for
maintenance work, or to introduce daylight
and ventilation into lofts when the cost,
large size and weight of a roof window
would be inappropriate.
The Wickes Skylight is available from
stock and is supplied complete with the
necessary flashing attached.
Main features are:
• One size - overall dimension
(W)450 x (H)550mm including
insulation.
• For installation in roof slopes between
15° and 85° from the horizontal.
• Wood frame, aluminium cladding.
• Double glazed 19mm Low ‘E’ double
glazed unit to meet Building
Regulation Part L.
• Top hung operation with three-position
latch.
• Flashing for tiles or slate is supplied.
Full installation instructions are
supplied with the Wickes Skylight.

FLASHING MOULDED TO
SLATE / TILE SHAPE AS REQUIRED

Whilst every care has been taken to ensure that the product design, descriptions, specifications and techniques of constructing the products are accurate at the date of
printing. Wickes products will inevitably change from time to time and the customer is advised to check that the design, descriptions, specifications and techniques of
constructing any of the products described in this leaflet are still valid at the time of purchase or placing an order.
© Wickes Building Supplies Limited 2008
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be produced or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise
or stored in any retrieval system of any nature without the written permission of the copyright holder and the publisher.