Professional Documents
Culture Documents
TSUM VALLEY
A slice of Nepal’s
‘wild’ Terai
bardia
on Travelogue
ANGKOR
WAT
on Global
Treasure
gadhi
mai mela
on Festival Watch
28 58 88
TIMES 09
10 | editorial www.nextyatra.com
Editorial
Dear Readers, Also for this issue, we have for you,
exclusive coverage of the Gadhi Mai Mela
Here it is finally - our Jungle Safari Special
from Bara district in the Tarai region of the
issue! And the timing could not be more
country. Although infamous for its animal
right. As the weather in the capital city and
sacrifices, it also makes for an intriguing
in the hills in general remains as whimsical
travel story. Travel Times has chosen to
as ever, the Tarai region is blessed with
focus on that aspect of the centuries-old
plentiful sunshine this time of the year.
festival.
While the mornings and the evenings are
foggy and cool, the weather is great during But Kathmandu’s winters are not without
the day. And what better way to spend time their charms too. There’s many a thing to
Travel Times Media Pvt. Ltd.
Kupondole, Lalitpur, Nepal
in the Tarai than to be surrounded by nature do and sights to see in the foggy streets of
P.O. Box 24206, Kathmandu, Nepal at its best – in the wild. So for this issue’s this fantastic city. But to appreciate the cold
CDO Regd No : 63/065/66
Tel.: +977 1 553 6733 /209 3290 cover feature, we take you into Sauraha’s of the city, you’d need to be warm yourself
Fax: +977 1 553 6733
E-mail: info@traveltimes-mag.com lush forests. Elephant rides, a terrific safari and nothing puts the chills of the season
URL: www.traveltimes-mag.com
package, canoe rides, elephant bathing, at bay than the many clothing accessories
editorial team bird watching… the list goes on! A jungle made out Pashmina. Prasanna Pandey
Chairman Deepak Bhatta safari has to be one of the best ways to writes about this time tested popular fabric
Managing Director / Editor A. R. Tandukar
Associate Editor Shambhu Tandukar
spend a holiday ever. and why it is suitable for travelers.
Creative Head Mahesh Tandukar
Director Sales & Marketing Tilak Khatri
Also on offer are stories from other amazing So settle in comfortably and read on. And
Copy Editor Utsav Shakya safari destination. A regular at Travel Times, when you are done, make plans and hit the
Inhouse Writer Prita Malla
Dr. Ravi Shankar writes about his safari in road!
Photographer Suresh Maharjan
Bardia’s forests. First time contributor Fran
Happy Travelling.
Advisors Littmann takes us to the jungles of Thailand
A. Das gupta
Sushil Bhatta for a personal account of a Thai safari! And
Upendra Hirawat you can’t possibly avoid talk of the elusive The Editorial Team
Abhishek Anand
Deepak Jain
Royal Bengal tiger when talking of safaris in
Nepal. Read on about this amazing creature Please do send us your valuable comments and suggestions
Partners at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com
China Southern Airlines
in our Nature and Wildlife section.
Gorkha Travels
Craft Garden
Dakshinkali Hill Resort
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Contributors
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The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in
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cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions.
We welcome your feedback. Please send us comments,
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feedback@traveltimes-mag.com
Ravi Shanker Francesca Littmann
Writers are encouraged to be part of Travel Times by Dr. Ravi Shankar is a Aspiring to live a life less
sending their stories along with relevant pictures and medical doctor and clinical ordinary, former UK singing
contact address at
articles@traveltimes-mag.com
pharmacologist at KIST Medical teacher Fran is always on the
College, Lalitpur. He has traveled lookout for the next adventure,
Advertisers are requested to enquire through
marketing@traveltimes-mag.com widely throughout Nepal and has from sharing coffee and
Travel and tourism related organizations are requested to
been involved in research about conversation with locals in
send their news and events at staying well at altitude. He is Jerusalem one day, to taking
news@traveltimes-mag.com keenly interested in rational use a leap of faith for charity off a
** Acceptance of submissions at publisher’s discretion of medicines and in empowering bungee bridge near the Tibetan
Reserve your subscription today. Contact at common people about health, border the next.
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Contents
Cover Story
Jungle Safari
Get a taste of man’s original dwelling grounds. Take yourself back to the
wild.
FOODRINK
On a Korean Cuisine
adventure
First time contributor Looza
Mahazu writes about finding
bliss and devouring it in his
Travelogue
A slice of Nepal’s ‘wild’
Terai, BARDIYA
Our resident doctor writes about
being stranded on a safari in the
32 forests of Bardia National Park.
28
Global Adventures in the
Treasure Northern Thai
ANGKOR WAT Jungle
So good it continually One of our new contributors, Fran Littmann
creates controversy writes about being thrown up on by an elephant
about its date of
construction, Angkor
and more on her Thailand safari travelogue. 52
Wat is definitely a
58 global treasure. 68 Nature and
People & Wildlife
Festival Culture
Protecting the
Predator: The Royal
Watch Re-introducing the Bengal Tiger
GadhI MaI MEla THARU “God made the cat so that man
A Journey of hope. Tharus are married at birth! might have the pleasure of
Read on about the amazing caressing the tiger.”
88 culture and lifestyle of the
Tharu community.
80
Starttraveling....withTravelTimes
84 Perfect Takeaways 26 Travel Gallery
Pashmina - Perennially In Vogue Featuring a chosen image sent in by For subscription
What better gift for a loved one, intended to
spread warmth than a pashmina throw that
travelers.
( 01 5536733
literally warms the body. 72 Recommended or log on to www.traveltimes-mag.com
Restaurants
12 Travel News A guide to the most happening want to write for
Get with the latest news and events in Nepal restaurants in town.
and around the globe. travel times?
Send us your travel articles or ideas
at articles@traveltimes-mag.com
Nepal Tourism Year 2011 Under the program, a peace torch will be political parties to develop a peaceful en-
carried from Lumbini to Kathmandu and vironment.
Secretariat outlines plan the NTY 2011 secretariat head will pass the
The Nepal Tour- torch to a high-profile personality while pa- During the briefing, Ministry of Tourism
ism Year (NTY) rades from six different places in the valley and Civil Aviation Joint Secretary Laxman
2011 secretariat will be held. Bhattarai said, “There is full commitment
unveiled its pro- from the government’s side to make NTY
grams during a Speaking during the program, Federation 2011 a grand success.” Bhattarai also urged
briefing on the of- of Nepalese Chambers of Commerce and to keep tourism year as top priority allocate
ficial launch of NTY 2011 that is scheduled Industry (FNCCI) Vice-President Suraj and adequate budget for infrastructure de-
for February 26 at the Tundikhel grounds. Vaidya called for commitment from all velopment in the tourism industry.
Palpa
Nepal focuses on sexual Lonely Planet Names Nepal as one of 2010’s Top 10
minorities for tourism Countries
the best places to go and the best things to
Almost three years after the Supreme Court do around the world for the year ahead.
established gay rights in Nepal; the country
is waiting to host “one of the most extrava- Other destinations to make Lonely Planet’s
gant groups of tourists in the world” — the Top 10 Countries 2010 list are El Salvador,
sexual minorities consisting of lesbians, Germany, Greece, Malaysia, Morocco,
gays, bi-sexuals and transgenders (LGBTs). New Zealand, Portugal, Suriname and the
USA.
Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) officials hope
that LGBT – that make up about 10 per- Lonely Planet has chosen Nepal as one of Drawing on the knowledge and passion of
cent of the world population - arrivals will the world’s Top 10 Countries for 2010 in Lonely Planet’s staff, authors and commu-
contribute to the governmentsaim of bring- LONELY PLANET’S BEST IN TRAVEL nity, BEST IN TRAVEL 2010 showcases a
ing in a million foreign tourists in the Ne- 2010, published this week. year’s worth of inspiration to take travellers
pal Tourism Year 2011. out of the ordinary and into some unforget-
BEST IN TRAVEL 2010 is Lonely Planet’s table experiences.
LGBT activists say they prefer destinations fifth eagerly-awaited annual collection of
like Nepal, which is rich in culture, art, ar-
chitecture, cuisine and music. Nepal has
both natural beauty and the goodwill of the NATTA’s New Executive Board
LGBT community worldwide to emerge
as one of the world’s top destinations for NATTA 46th AGM and ing public from exploitation by unreliable
sexual minorities. Election Program were agents. The newly elected board is led by Mr.
held on 8th January 2010 Arjun Prasad Sharma, current President.
As part of the first promotional activity, Ne- at Hotel Everest.
pal is hosting a historic international con- The number of the association’s members
ference in February, which is expected to The primary purpose of has been increased considerably since its
bring together the world’s top tour opera- NATTA is to protect the establishment. Today, there are 365 active
tors, airlines and agencies selling adventure interests of those engaged in the travel trade members and 14 Allied Members in NATTA.
tourism to Kathmandu to explore opportu- business, to promote its orderly growth and NATTA also offers provisional membership.
nities for gay tourism in Nepal. developement and to safeguard the travel-
draw UFTAA representatives, 80 national In a wide ranging debate about the di-
and multinational travel agent associations rection in which the travel agent sec-
spanning the globe. This year, Nepal Asso- tor should be moving, it was the
ciation of Tour and Travel Agents (NATTA) consensus that now is the time for
won the honor of hosting the 43rd UFTAA UFTAA to assert a more independent
World Congress in Kathmandu (Nepal). stance for its members. At the conclusion
This gala event was held with the joint ef- of the business agenda, UFTAA President,
forts of Nepal Tourism Board and Nepal William TAN of NATAS (Singapore) ob-
Airlines Corporation. served that this congress marked a signifi-
cant and promising change in UFTAA’s
The three days devoted to business issues direction. He looked forward to leading a
covered a wide spectrum of topics of con- more proactive federation but stressed that
cern to the world’s travel agents. Several change can be achieved by the hard work
informative presentations were made by of those who had undertaken the reforms
OFFICIAL MAGAZINE of the Congress
members to illustrate how the imagina- that the congress needed.
tive application of new technologies offer
TIMES
yourtravelcompanion
The organizing of an Internation- Now the third time around, NATTA Hima- Under the theme Sustainability, Network-
al Travel Mart of such great magnitude in layan International Travel Mart carries with ing and Profitability, the co- organizers,
Nepal was initiated by Nepal Association of it global brand value. This tourism mart is composed of the Nepal Tourism Board
Tour and Travel Agents (NATTA) in 2005 a momentous international biennial event (NTB) and Nepal Airlines Corporation
followed by a second time in 2007 in close in Nepal for buyers as well as sellers from have spared no efforts in making this Inter-
conjunction with Nepal Tourism Board various part of the world. The 3rd NATTA national Travel Mart successful and enjoy-
and Nepal Airlines Corporation. Himalayan International Travel Mart 2009 able for all delegates.
held in capital city of Nepal, Kathmandu
The first NATTA Himalayan International from 23-25 November 2009 provided a won-
Travel Mart was organized by NATTA in derful opportunity for the tourism fraternity
2005, under the theme ‘Streaming Efforts to assemble together under a common roof
of Promoting Inter-Regional Tourism’. and interact to spread their business net- NHITM Coordinator
The Chief Guest at the event was the then work further. There were a total of 24 stalls Mr. Shambhu
Crown Prince Paras Bir Bikram Shah. with 54 local and foreign exhibitors. Pathak’s Message
There were more than 150 foreign partici-
pants including exhibitors from 18 coun- Beside the official gathering, the B2B ses-
tries and more than 400 local participants at sion at Gokarna Forest Resort and social It is a matter of great please and happiness
the Mart. The first travel mart was a grand functions, city and shopping tours as well for me to state that the 3rd NATTA Himalayan
success and widely covered by national and as the customary day long excursion set Int’l Travel Mart (23 - 25 Nov 2009) was a huge
international media. in the Shangri-La ambience of the city of success.
Kathmandu was arranged for the partici- Needless to say, tourism has today become an
Following the success of the first NATTA pants. This time along with the local sell- important global economic activity and this mart
Himalayan International Travel Mart, ers there were representatives from Bhu- has brought people together from all around
NATTA organized the second Himalayan tan, Thailand and Malaysia with their out the world. We have to thank Nepal Tourism
International Travel Mart in 2007 with the Board (NTB) and Nepal Airlines Corporation
bound tours. There were 41 international along with HAN, TAAN, NMA, TURGAN and other
theme ‘Tourism: Prosperity for Posterity’. buyers and tour operators and 24 members organization for the historic success of 3rd
The Chief Guest at the event was Honor- from the International Media. NATTA Himalayan Int’l Travel Mart.
able Minister for Culture, Tourism & Civil
Aviation, Mr. Prithivi Raj Subba. There
ORGANIZER: CO-ORGANIZER: OFFICIAL MAGAZINE
were more than 200 foreign participants
from 20 different countries and more than
400 local participants. There were altogeth-
er 35 stalls from entire tourism fraternity.
TIMES
yourtravelcompanion
TIMES 09
DUBAI ANNOUNCED PLANS FOR Singapore’s first integrated resort opens from 20 Jan 2010
TOURISM PROJECTS IN 2010 We have been single-minded about this –
no distractions or excuses - and today, we
are happy to say we have marked the first
milestone towards delivering on that prom-
ise.’’
9 Rent-A-Car, Nepal’s first car KFC and Pizza Hut in Town Consumers in Nepal are ready for international
rental company, starts its eating out experience at its two outlets at
operation Durbar Marg, Kathmandu. KFC is world famous
for its Original Recipe fried chicken -- made
Nine Nepal Pvt.
with the same secret blend of 11 herbs and
Ltd. has launched
spices Colonel Harland Sanders perfected more
a car rental service
than half a century ago.
named 9 Rent-a-Car.
Established by nine KFC’s signature dishes are the finger-licking
entrepreneurs, 9 Rent- Zinger Burger and the all-time favourite
a-Car has targeted the Chicken Bucket. The inimitable taste of their
tourism sector, Nepali products comes from a well-guarded secret
corporate houses, recipe. Also gaining popularity is KFC Krushers,
diplomatic and donor The long wait is finally over as Devyani their exciting new line of beverages.
agencies, INGOs and International, under RJ Corp has opened Pizza
expats. Hut & KFC restaurants to Kathmandu, the first NMB Bank Limited is the financial partner with
multinational chain of restaurants in Nepal from Devyani International for bringing Pizza Hut &
“We aim to provide specialised service in the 25th of November. KFC to Nepal.
city and outbound tours to those who seek
personalised service,” said Santoo Shrestha,
Managing Director of Nine Nepal.
Mahindra Two Wheelers unveils two new Power Scooters
Nepal has purchased 15 Suzuki Dzire cars to
launch the business. The company aims to
provide state-of-the-art car rental and leasing
service to the tourism sector with personalized
service. Apart from this, other sectors like
corporate, financial institutes, diplomatic and
donor agencies and INGOs can also avail of
the service. The company is offering chauffer-
driven as well as self-driven service with cars of
all makes in Nepal from super luxury segments
like Nissan Cefiro, BMW 7 Series; all model
of Sedans, Hatch back, SUVs/MUVs, Smaller
segment car and coaches. Customers can just
call 2199999 or 4466655 to rent a vehicle of
their choice in the Kathmandu Valley.
Sanjay
Pandit
Running after Dreams
At a young age when most of us have
just emerged bewildered from the
awkwardness and uncertainties of
adolescence, and have no clue what to do
with life, or our career, here is a fresh face
intent on and already making an indelible
mark in the field of Nepali athletics.
Sanjay Pandit, a student pursuing a BBA degree at Kantipur Valley College, is a long dis-
tance marathon runner who came into fame after completing the 127 km marathon from
Lalitpur to Maitripul in Tatopani in a record 11 hours and 20 minutes. Today, having already
proved himself and his abilities in the Nepali athletics arena, he aims even higher for rec-
ognition at the international level. Travel Times caught up with Sanjay who was gracious
enough to receive us in spite of his tight schedule of rigorous training for an upcoming
marathon. Excerpts from the mind of one of the youngest and most inspiring stars of Nepal
today:
What inspired you to become a marathon fession no doubt, but the satisfaction and Unfortunately, even though I sought sup-
runner? sense of victory I get when I finally cross port from various organizations and offices
My father was always strict about our daily the red ribbon after a long and tiring mara- for my marathon, I only got a few flimsy
exercise schedule. I used to practice with thon is well worth it. promises. I even went to the Nepal Olym-
him since I was a child. However there was pic Committee, National Sports Council
one instance that specifically inspired me Tell us about your achievements. and the Sports Ministry but sadly it was only
to be a marathon runner. I was returning One of my proudest moments would have limited to talk. Mr. Jeetendra Man Amatya,
from college when I saw the grand wel- to be the morning of January 23 2009 (Mar- Co-ordinator of Kantipur Valley College
come athlete Rajendra Bhandari received tyr’s Day) when I completed the 127 km is the one who has always supported and
from the Nepalese Government and the marathon from Kantipur Valley College encouraged me. It is very tough to balance
Nepalese people after returning home vic- to Maitripul in Tatopani in 11 hours and 20 studies and training for such strenuous
torious with a South Asian Games Gold minutes setting a new record. I also com- events, but with the support of my college,
medal. pleted the run from Swargadwari Pyuthan I have come this far and hope to carry on.
to Khula Mancha in Kathmandu on Feb-
ruary 11 2009, a distance of around 339 km So what do you have in mind for the
in 47 hours, 20 minutes and 6 seconds. I future? Will you continue with the sport or
The marathon is being have also participated in various marathons concentrate more on your studies?
organized in the valley to mark various oc- I am very passionate about this sport but I
organized for the main casions. have to be realistic as well. Making a liv-
objective of making people ing out of athletics is very difficult in Nepal
What are your future plans? so I intend to complete my BBA and then
aware about the climate One of the projects I am training for right pursue higher education to become a CA.
now is the marathon on January 15 2010, This doesn’t mean that I will give up on
change and global warming. starting from the base of Mt. Gaurishankar sports. I will keep running. I aim to take
in Dolkha to Dasarath Rangashala, Kath- athletics and academics together.
mandu. This run is nearly 185 km long and
I intend to finish it in around 23 hours. The
I wanted that glory, that sense of accom- marathon is being organized for the main Any words for our readers?
plishment of making one’s country proud. objective of making people aware about the I believe that if you set your mind to it, you
From then on, I had only one goal in my climate change and global warming. The can do anything. One thing I have learnt
mind; I wanted to win the hearts of people. run intends to spread the hopeful message from rigorous marathons is that to be good
I’d always been a fairly athletic person but of peace everywhere, to rekindle Nepali at something, you have to train yourself
I knew even then that I had a long way to pride, to guide today’s belligerent and igno- to become better. I was just an ordinary
go before I could prove myself as a long rant youth to truth. student with a small dream, but with dili-
distance marathon runner. I trained my- gence and determination, I was able to go
self rigorously for hours every day, making After the completion of this marathon, places, and even get to be interviewed for
multiple rounds in Dasarath Rangashala I plan to run the whole of Nepal starting magazines! (laughs) I would like to say that
and Tundikhel. I embarked on a dedicated from Mechi in the East to Mahakali in the you should never give up hope and always
and strict lifestyle with a very controlled west, a total distance of 1050 km. I believe chase – run - after your dreams.
diet while I trained for marathons. During that this would be the perfect opportunity
winters, I used to get frostbite and my fin- for me to visit all parts of our beautiful
gers and toes would swell from running so country. Besides, the media coverage dur-
hard in the early mornings. My whole body ing the event will be sure to give exposure
would turn sore and it was all excruciating- to the beautiful landscapes and people of
ly painful. Nowadays, the training sessions remote parts of the country and promote
are more intricate and strenuous. Today I Nepal’s tourism. I personally look forward
run around the Ring Road on a daily basis to the trip.
to maintain my stamina. It is a tiring pro-
To publish your photographs in this section, submit to info@traveltimes-mag.com with photo and camera details.
www.nextyatra.com | 29
Bardia
We were in trouble! Our grey raft ing were of white water madness,
Our resident doctor writes about was leaking badly. Water was al- churning rapids and excited ad-
being stranded on a safari in the ready lapping at our ankles inside venturers hanging on for life to the
the boat. Our guides rowed the raft raft. The placid Karnali in the flat
forests of Bardia National Park. to the river bank and decided to plains of the terai quickly disposed
transfer us all into a blue raft. With any such notions.
the addition of ten new passengers
however, the raft sank deeper into Reaching Bardia
the murky grey waters of the Kar- We were a group of twenty peo-
nali River. ple from Pokhara. We had hired
a mini bus for the journey. The
The Karnali drains a huge area in initial drive was along the twist-
mid western and far western Nepal ing, vertigo inducing Siddhartha
and eventually joins the holy Gan- Rajmarga (highway) to Butwal.
Text and photos by Dr. Ravi Shankar ges. We were rafting on the mighty The February morning was chilly
Karnali in the Bardia National Park but clear and we had spectacular
near Nepalgunj in mid western views of the Annapurnas. From
Nepal. Conditioned by adventure Butwal we took the Mahendra
magazines, my visions of raft- Rajmarga, the major east-west
Getting to Sauraha
The park is accessible by car or bus on the Kathmandu -Mugling-Narayanghat
Highway or via the Mahendra Rajmarg Highway from Hetauda. It is about a six
hour drive from Kathmandu to Narayanghat. Local buses are available to Tandi
Bazar, which is about an hour’s drive from Narayanghat. A 6km. walk or bullock-cart
ride brings visitors to Sauraha, the park entrance. Air-services from Kathmandu to
Meghauli and Bharatpur air field are also available. Local buses are available from
Narayanghat to Park HQ at Kasara.
The total length for the male is of 270-310 cm meanwhile that of the female is of 240–265 cm.
The tail measures 85–110 cm and the height at the shoulders is 90–110 cm. Its average weight
is 221.2 kg (487.7 lb) for the male and 139.7 kg (308 lb) for the female. The rich coat ranges
from yellow to light orange in color while the stripes might be dark brown or black. Its belly is
white, and its tail is white with black rings. It is said that the Bengal tiger’s roar can be heard
up to three kilometers (almost two miles) away.
four-horned antelope, striped hyena, in the park include the peafowl, red On a recent safari, as a group of
pangolin, Gangetic dolphin, moni- jungle fowl, and different species of excited Taiwanese tourists tried in
tor lizard and python. Other animals egrets, herons, kingfishers, flycatch- vain to get the mahutey to turn the
found in the park include the sambar, ers and woodpeckers. The best time elephant around to get some better
chital, hog deer, barking deer, sloth for bird watching is March and De- photos, I reveled in the simple life of
bear, palm civet, langur and rhesus cember. Besides this, more than 45 the jungle. This was how it was back
monkey. To sight them all is however species of amphibians and reptiles are in the day, I thought to myself. Black
quite impossible with most animals found in the park, some of which are topped roads, houses, cars – all of
preferring to be left alone and re- the marsh crocodile, cobra, green pit these came so much later in time –
maining out of sight, camouflaged viper and various species of frogs and borne out of necessity. Here amidst
wonderfully by the many colors of the tortoises. tall trees and basking in the golden
jungle. But keep your eyes open and afternoon sun, the elephants, wild
your ears on alert and you might just A safari trip can be organized for you boars, rhinos and spotted deer, all
sight something rare. by your lodge throughout the day, of them seemed at ease, without the
providing the light is still good. Morn- necessities that mankind deemed
There are over 450 species of birds ing, noon and afternoon safaris all crucial for its survival. There is food
in the park, many of whom migrate have their advantages. Because safa- to be discovered and then devoured,
from as far away as Siberia and come ris are usually planned in the winter, shelter to seek in caves and in the
into Nepal from its eastern corri- in the morning and at noon, a lot of shade of trees and as for clothing,
dor such as Illam. Using Nepal as a animals such as deer and rhinos like well that’s debatable!
warm, friendly passage, the birds then to come out of their cooler comfort
fly to Africa. Among the endangered zones to bask in the warm Tarai sun.
birds are the Bengal florican, giant These timings are excellent for easy
hornbill, lesser florican, black stork sightings and for photography.
and white stork. Common birds seen
Spotted deer
TRAVELOGUE
ventures
Ad h ern
ort
in the N gle
J u n
Thai
By Fran cesca Littman n
Although I'm not adverse to the beauties of the great outdoors, I've certainly never been one to
jump at an opportunity for physical exertion. So when I signed up for a 2-day, 1-night trek in
the humid northern Thai jungle, I surprised myself the most. The trek started with a three-hour
climb up a steep hillside. I found myself struggling to keep up and had little time to take in the
surrounding scenery, so intent was I on measuring every footstep to prevent myself from rolling
back downhill. Our guide Tee however, seemed to have no such problem, as he rocketed uphill at
lightening-speed in his flimsy flip-flops.
Finally, my body aching from the use of long-forgotten muscles, the hilltop Karen village came into
sight with its raised bamboo huts and chickens scratching about in the dirt. The villagers were
going about their daily chores, undisturbed by our arrival. Once we reached the hut where we
would be staying, we put down our bags and had a drink, before claiming our beds - consisting
of thin foam mattresses on an uneven bamboo floor, covered by holey mosquito nets. My fellow
trekkers and I soon wandered about the village. The views from both sides were
breathtaking; on one side we could see the city of Chiang
Mai in the distance and on the other was
an abundance of hills and vibrant green
vegetation.
Early next morning I awoke to a strange itch in my ear. As my eyes adjusted to the dim light of the
room, I realised the itching was the result of numerous jumbo-sized ants crawling all over my pillow.
This was enough to get me out of bed despite the sight of my fellow adventurers fast asleep. After a
particularly tasty breakfast of Thai-style scrambled eggs, toast, exotic fruits and tea and coffee,
we gathered up our belongings and bid farewell to the village as we set off on our journey. Though the
walk uphill had been physically challenging, going down was harder. I was already feeling the effects
of yesterday's muscle-challenge and was not at my best due to minimal sleep. On top of this, a dense
mist reduced our visibilities and the ground underfoot was slippery from the previous night's rain. As
we slowly made our descent, Tee hacked at bamboo canes to support us. Though I appreciated the use
of it, I couldn’t help but wonder at the impact this has on the environment, particularly as our trek was
one of many happening daily in this small part of the world.
However, our downhill jaunt was more eventful as we encountered local wildlife. At one point Tee
brought the group to a halt, telling us he was going to introduce us to ‘Mr Jonny’. He began poking
a stick into a hole on the raised edge of the track. I immediately envisioned him awakening some sort
of venomous snake from it’s slumber. Moments later as he slowly edged the stick back out, a very big,
very black and very hairy eight-legged creature appeared. It’s probably just as well the other female
members of the group were too far behind to see it, because a later discussion regarding Mr Jonny
revealed that they were scared of spiders and therefore most likely would have screamed the jungle
down. Mr Jonny had clearly felt the same
way about humans, and no sooner had he been
removed that he made a prompt withdrawal
back into the hole.
We had a brief interlude for lunch at the elephant camp before making our way to the platform
from which we would mount the solid wooden seats on the elephants’ backs. Despite being at
approximately the same level as the seat, this was still a tricky manoeuvre, as all of us clambered
‘onboard’. Once my riding partner and I were (relatively) comfortably seated, the elephant
began its slow, methodical plod that would constitute the forty-minute round-trip alongside the
river. After having felt the need to watch where I was going whilst walking through the jungle, it
was both a relief and a pleasure to now be observing the beautiful scenery on all sides from this
elevated viewpoint.
Judging by the height and size of his tusks, it seemed that the elephant I was riding was the
bull. When the guide suggested I remove myself from the safety of my seat to sit across its neck,
I was a little hesitant. After a few precarious moments as I balanced between the elephant and
the ropes that attached the seat however, I was glad I had met the challenge. To sit in direct
physical contact with one of the world’s largest land mammals, and to be able to touch its prickly-
haired skin whilst feeling the cool breeze created by the flapping of its enormous ears, was a
deeply moving experience for me; one that I shall remember for a lifetime.
Along our trek we were able to purchase bananas to feed the elephants. It brought me great
pleasure to observe his eating habits, as he raised his trunk, sniffed around and then vacuumed
the banana in with his large nostrils as soon as it came into striking distance. Needless to say the
bananas didn’t last long, and our elephant became
somewhat disgruntled when he returned his trunk
to find no further snack. He decided to voice his
disgust at the lack of food provisions by exhaling
a trunk-full of muddy elephant snot, of which I
was in the direct firing line. After a brief moment
of shock at his audacity, I found myself laughing
heartily as I attempted to wipe away the slimy
brown goo that covered me from head to toe.
Hearts still pounding from the thrill of the rapids, we arrived at the spot in the river where
we traded in our dingy and lifejackets for the bamboo raft that would take us to our pick-up
point downstream. When I had heard about bamboo rafting before coming on the trek, I had
found the concept of gently floating down the river on bound-bamboo to be a somewhat romantic
notion. Although it was a fairly relaxing experience and allowed a final opportunity to take in the
beautiful scenery, compared to the adrenalin-rush of the previous ten minutes, it didn’t quite live
up to my expectations. This could also be owed to the fact that I had not foreseen the discomfort
of sitting on uneven bamboo canes whilst being partially submerged in muddy water!
Twenty minutes later, our bamboo raft reached its final destination, where we abandoned our
floating carriage for the more solid foothold of terra firma. A few drinks and several pictures
later, we bid farewell to Tee and found ourselves packed tightly into a tuk-tuk. As we headed
back towards the city, the general mood became subdued as fatigue began to seep in, combined
with the realisation that our adventure
was drawing to a close. I looked out
from the back of the vehicle as the leafy
greenery of one jungle got gradually
replaced by the grey concrete of another.
One by one, our numbers dwindled as
we were dropped off at our various
guesthouses. Finally my turn came. As I
descended the tuk-tuk, I uttered good
wishes to my remaining fellow trekkers,
and then turned to walk, exhausted but
happy, towards the familiar steps of my
hotel.
globaltreasure
ANGKOR WAT
Angkor Wat is on everyone’s must-see list, but venturing beyond the fray to
the area’s more remote temples can yield the experience of a lifetime.
A structure that could not have been built in the era that it really
was built during. A design intended to reflect the home of the Gods.
A blueprint that mirrors the stars of 10,500 BC. Decoration that
encloses the Mahabharat and the Ramayana. A temple complex
dedicated to the heavens.
That is Angkor Wat. Located 5.5 kilometers north of the modern town of Siem Reap (the capital of Siem Reap
Province, Cambodia) this temple complex is the highlight of a trip to Cambodia, and one of the major highlights
of a trip to South East Asia. For those interested in archaeology, the place is a spectacular piece of history; the
crown jewel of the Khmer Civilization. For us lay tourists, this architectural wonder is one of the most visually
rewarding ones we could ever come across.
history
The blueprinting of this wonder-of-the-world nom- occasionally came upon the amazing ruins. Rec-
Laos
inee began in the 12th century, during the reign of ognizing the sacred nature of the temples but igno- Thailand
Suryavarman II. Dedicated to Vishnu, it was built rant of their origins, they invented fables about the
Angkor Wat
as the king’s state temple and capital city. 27 years mysterious sanctuaries, saying they had been built
Cambodia
later, the Angkor was sacked by the Chams, the by the gods in an ancient time. Centuries passed,
traditional enemies of the Khmer. Thereafter the these fables became legends, and pilgrims from the Phnom Penh
empire was restored by a new king, Jayavarman distant reaches of Asia sought out the mystic city of Vietnam
VII, who established a new capital and state temple the gods. The temple complex itself was rumored
(Angkor Thom and the Bayon respectively) a few to be nothing but a legend, until western explorers
kilometers to the north. In the late 13th century, finally uncovered it.
the Hindu King Jayavarman VIII was deposed by
his son in law, Srindravarman. Srindravarman had The temple was popularized in the w est only in
spent the previous 10 years in Sri Lanka becom- the mid-19th century in Henri Mouhot’s travel
ing ordained as a Buddhist monk. Hence, the new notes. Mouhot, like other early Western visitors,
king decided to convert the official religion of the was unable to believe that the Khmers could have
empire from Hinduism to Buddhism and conse- built the temple, and mistakenly dated it to around
quently, Angkor Wat was converted from Hindu to the same era as Rome. It was that good.
Theravada Buddhist use.
Angkor Wat underwent considerable restoration in
During the half-millennia of Khmer occupation, the 20th century, with the removal of accumulated
the city of Angkor became a pilgrimage destination earth and vegetation. Its abandonment had taken a
of importance throughout Southeast Asia. Sacked toll on the structure, but because of the moat that
by the Thais in 1431 and abandoned in 1432, Angkor surrounds it, nature’s encroachment was curbed to
was forgotten for a few centuries. Wandering Bud- a certain degree.
dhist monks, passing through the dense jungles,
province, 1
What does Angkor Wat Offer?
approximately Angkor Wat itself is a very vast temple; you can easily of the thousand Buddhas is exactly as it sounds like.
get lost here. Still, the Wat’s features will draw you It used to have hundreds of Buddha images, but to-
50% of all in and have you marveling at the sight and the very day we can see only remnants, for some were stolen
foreign tourists thought of its construction. The moat that guards and some destroyed. The still functional Buddhist
the temple will catch your eye first. The entrance shrines also attract tourists, but mostly draw devo-
in Cambodia for too is a feast for the eyes; one begins to wonder tees. Angkor Wat’s Central Towers are up next; situ-
about the symmetry of the temple - it’s one of the ated at the second level of the temple, these make
both years. reasons why the Wat is so appealing. The famous up the most magnificent sight of the temple. We
reflecting pools are sure to drop jaws and have pho- highly recommend anyone intending to visit the
tographers drooling over the perfect mirror images. Wat to spend most of their time here, strolling in
This effect is perfect in the rainy season; the pools the area and taking in the view. Here’s also where
might not be full during the dry ones. The gallery we issue a warning: anyone who dares to go further
2 3
It is no wonder
that this temple
5 was nominated
7 to be one of the
seven wonders
of the world; its
more of a wonder
that it didn’t make
it to the final
seven.
4
up should go at their own risk. The stairs to the writings describe the Mahabharat and the Rama-
third level of the temple are steep for a purpose. yana. The eight depicted scenes comprise of the
They represent the extreme difficulty of reaching battle of Kurukshetra, the army of Suryavarman II,
the heavens. Still, the steep stairs to the next level Heaven and Hell, Churning of the ocean of milk,
also are a major attraction. If you can’t make it, Vishnu conquering the Asuras, Krishna and Bana
though, don’t feel bad. There have been casualties (the demon king), the battle of the Gods and De- 1. The steep stairs at Angkor Wat
before on these steps, so the Apsara authority has mons and finally, the Battle of Lanka. 2. An enormous Sculpture
placed some metal stairs with railings on the other 3. 190 meter wide moat at Angkor
side of the courtyard. Once you’re up in the third If you’re going on a South East Asia trip, Angkor Wat
Wat is one architectural wonder you don’t want to 4. North wall of the monument,
and final level, there are numerous spots to enjoy
one part of the longest bias
the bird’s eye view of the ground structures. miss out on. It is no wonder that this temple was relief carving in the world
nominated to be one of the Seven Wonders of the 5. Carvings depicting the battle of
There’s one final thing about the Wat that grabs at- World; it’s quite a wonder that it didn’t make it to Lanka
tention: The Angkor Wat temple Bas Reliefs. These the final seven. A temple complex like no other, 6. Carvings above the doors going
to the uppermost terrace of the
are inscriptions carved on all four sides of the outer Angkor Wat is definitely one of the world’s Global
temple.
walls of the temple. In amazing detail and surpris- Treasures. 7. Mighty wall of the main area of
ingly not deteriorated by time, these drawings and Angkor Wat
heal hy
S ta y in g
on a SAFARI
Diarrheal diseases ter returning from the area. This drug has most dangerous.
Most areas of the ‘third world’ have prob- to be chewed thoroughly and is effective
lems of hygiene and sanitation. This is also against many types of worms. Boiling wa- Chemoprophylaxis or taking a drug for pre-
true of the terai. In Sauraha, the tourist cen- ter and cooking food thoroughly are other vention of the disease can be considered by
ter of Chitwan National Park many lodges precautions. travelers going to the terai. Chloroquine,
have been built in the last two decades cre- proguanil and mefloquine are commonly
ating problems of waste disposal. The best used. Chloroquine and mefloquine (taken
way to stay healthy is to drink only boiled Malaria once weekly) are started one week before
water. Chemically treating the water could Malaria made a comeback in going to an area and continued for at least a
also be an option but remember the organic Nepal and other coun- month after leaving. Proguanil (taken daily)
content of the water may be high requiring tries in the 1970s is started 2-3 days before travel and contin-
higher doses of chemicals. Iodine and mainly because of ued for a week after returning. The choice
chlorine solutions are most commonly resistance of mos- of drug depends on the resistance pattern
used to chemically purify water. Most lodg- quitoes (which act of the parasites in the area. Travelers can
es get their water supply from rivers and as a carrier for the contact physicians in their host country for
unfortunately by the time they reach malarial parasite) to the prophylaxis information. If you succumb
the terai, rivers are polluted after flowing insecticide DDT and of the parasites to to malaria, chloroquine is the mainstay of
through densely populated towns and vil- commonly used drugs. In 2003 there were treatment if the parasite is sensitive. Chlo-
lages. Especially during the summer, food a total of 9394 reported malaria cases and roquine resistance is unfortunately becom-
spoils quickly making food poisoning a pos- around 57000 probable or clinically diag- ing common. Mefloquine and a number of
sibility. Flies are common in summer and nosed malaria cases in Nepal. With increas- newly developed drugs are also available.
can spread many diseases. Do not eat from ing temperatures as a result of global warm-
road side stalls and check the fly protection ing, the disease is likely to spread to new Keep in mind the possibility of malaria
measures in your lodge kitchen and dining areas and populations. Malaria is caused if you develop a fever during your safari.
area. Salads and other raw foods can be a by a tiny parasite called plasmodium with a Paracetamol (acetaminophen) every 6 to
health hazard if not prepared properly. Eat complex life cycle. It invades the liver and 8 hours can help to bring down the fever.
them only if you are sure about your lodge’s red blood cells (RBCs) in humans. Fever Tepid sponging (wiping the body using a
food preparation methods and standards of results when the parasites are released from cloth/sponge soaked in lukewarm water) is
hygiene. I remained healthy during my vis- the ruptured RBCs. There are four types of helpful too. Evaporation of water absorbs
its to Bardia and Chitwan and was pleased malaria with Falciparum malaria being the heat from the body bringing down the fe-
to note that lodges paid particular attention ver. Visit a doctor if your fever does not
to food preparation. come down in a day. Many lodges have
doctors on call.
Worm infestations
Parasitic worm infestations, especially Heat illnesses
round worm can be problematic. Open air Heat illness can be a problem in the terai
defecation has reduced steadily with con- especially during the summer when mid-
struction of latrines so hook worms may no day temperatures can be around 40˚ C.
longer be a major problem. You can have Increased muscular activity, other illness
a single tablet of Albendazole 400 mg af- and old age are risk factors. Heat cramps
Insect bites
Insect bites can prove to be a threat too with insects such as, mosquitoes and
bed bugs. Mosquito nets are commonly provided in lodges or are fixed to
doors and windows. Unplastered homes of the eastern terai harbor sand flies
which can transmit a disease called Kala azar (black disease). This disease is
unlikely to affect tourists unless they stay for a long time in such dwellings. An
antihistamine taken orally will reduce the itching, pain and swelling of the
insect bite. A pain killer (analgesic) can also be taken.
Insect bites can also cause a severe reaction called an anaphylactic reaction.
This may occur with bee or wasp stings. Histamine (a chemical) is liberated
which causes dilation of blood vessels and makes them leaky. Swelling, redness,
itching, difficulty in breathing, low blood pressure are the features. The
narrowest part of the airway in the larynx (sound box) can be blocked, literally
choking the person to death. Injections of adrenaline, antihistamines and
corticosteroids can be life saving.
Tharu
Re-Introducing the
Tharus are married at birth! Not to take anything away from the history themselves. Problems arise when the part-
and culture of the Tharu community - some- ners they choose are unavailable because
Read on about the amazing
thing that dates back several centuries - but they too are bound into marriages right from
culture and lifestyle of the sometimes the quirkiest things affix them- birth!
Tharu community. selves in a writer’s mind. When I sat down
to write about the way of the Tharus, their I first heard about such a practice years ago,
culture, their lifestyle and their beliefs, it is while growing up in a hostel, through a Tharu
their peculiar marriage practice that crept friend. At the age of thirteen, he would brag
into my mind first. Traditionally, Tharu mar- about already having a wife in his village. It
riages are arranged during the pregnancy of is another matter that the guy is still single,
Text by Utsav Shakya two women. If the two women give birth but his stories caught my imagination, along
to babies of opposite sexes, the marriage of with that of all the other guys that shared our
these infants is fixed informally. In a lot of dormitory. Dark skinned, with jet black hair
cases, these children grow up as friends and and telling his stories in a heavy accent, he
hence ease into a marriage more times than painted quite an exotic picture of the Tharu
not. This is much appreciated by the older community, never leading on to the fact that
folks in the community. But in a lot of cases, his community suffered from severe issues of
increasingly more so now, youth eligible for marginalization and were amongst the back-
marriage have ventured away from this age ward communities of the country.
old tradition, choosing to find their partners
Lifestyle
Most Tharus live in longhouses made out decorating their walls, rice containers and
of mud, which may hold up to 15 people. other objects in their environment with
Their principal crops are barley, wheat, Tharu women transforming outer walls
maize, and rice, and many also raise poultry and verandahs into colorful paintings using
and farm animals such as chickens, ducks, bare hands. These paintings are said to be
pigs, and goats. Quite a number of them dedicated to Laxmi, the Hindu goddess of
are known to be engaged in fishing for a liv- prosperity and fertility.
ing in huge rivers that run near their settle-
ments. As a result of their isolated lifestyle The Tharu people do not have a well de-
in malarial swamps until the recent use fined Tharu language that unifies their
of DDT, they developed a unique style of communities in different parts of Nepal
1 3
1. Tharu headgear 4
2. Body art signifies coming of age in the Tharu
community
3. Traditional utensils and tools of the Tharu people
4. Tharu women celebrating a festival in traditional
attire and accessories
Tharu men and women love to adorn their to appease gods is a popular practice.
Tharu men and women bodies with art. Using the soot of a particu- Milk and silk cloth are also used in most
love to adorn their bodies lar type of wild grass and mixing in a little rituals. They also use the blood of one of
with art. Most Tharus have bit of their own mother’s milk into it, they the male members in the family for such
dip needles into this solution and tattoo rituals. Such rituals are conducted through
their hands, legs and backs themselves with it. Most Tharus have their ceremonies, and superficial cuts are made
covered with intricate body hands, legs and backs covered with intri- on the forehead, arms, throat, legs and
cate body art. Women are deemed eligible chest. Such practices however are less pro-
art. for marriage only after this ceremony. The nounced today.
and India. Instead, they speak variants of traditional Tharu marriage happens twice,
Urdu and Awadhi in Western Nepal and once when they are infants and then when Tharu deities are believed to have the abil-
in adjacent parts of India, variants of the they are teenagers. Such a practice became ity to heal diseases and sickness. Accord-
Bhojpuri language in and near central Ne- popular because for most parents getting ing to traditional legends, gods are given
pal, and a variant of the Maithili language their daughters married is a huge responsi- a bhakal, a promise of an offering of some
in and near Eastern Nepal. More standard bility and the earlier it happened, the easier form, on the condition that the sickness is
versions of these dialects are widely spoken it was for the parents. cured, or in events of misfortune, plagues
by non-Tharu neighbors in the same areas, and nightmares. Upon the fulfillment of
eroding away linguistic barriers between Tharus are adherents of Hinduism, but such conditions, animal sacrifices are held
Tharus and their neighbors. However, a also follow Islamic, Animist and Buddhist or elaborate ceremonies are organized
different kind of linguistic barrier between beliefs. Small numbers have converted to to thank the deity. A relative’s death is an
these dialects stands in the way of com- Buddhism in recent years. Such syncretism event of great significance among Tharus
munication amongst Tharus from different has led these people to practice folk Hindu- and rituals conducted vary in accordance
regions. Hindi has been largely proposed as ism. With more religious freedom, many to the regions. They approach shamans as
a lingua franca for communication across have also converted to Christianity and doctors, known as Guruba. Such shamans
the Terai. Tharu people are also notorious there are a variety of congregations active use Buddhist medicine to cure illnesses.
in their casual use of foul language amongst in the various districts that have large Tharu Tharus believe sickness comes when the
family members, specially in the villagers. populations. Traditionally, Tharus worship gods are displeased and the demons are
various gods in the form of animals such as at work so shamans will try to appease the
The aforementioned genetic resistance to dogs, crows and cows, a practice similar to gods through incantations, beating drums
malaria suggests that Tharus were already those followed by Hindus. Every village has and offering sacrifices.
living in the Terai before Indo-Europeans their own deity, commonly known as Bhu-
arrived, which gives rise to the question of inyar. Tharus in East Nepal call their de- As with many other backward communi-
which language they had been speaking at ity Gor-raja. They celebrate Fagu Purnima ties around the world and not just in Ne-
the time. Nevertheless if any linguistic fea- and Dashain as their main festivals. pal, Tharus too are slowly letting go of a lot
tures survive from that era, they have not of their practices to adapt to modern life.
been well documented. Most of their households have a statue of With increasing prices of livelihood and
a traditional god and sacrificing animals lifestyles, they have no alternative to this.
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On a
Korean cuisine
adventure
First time contributor Looza Mahazu writes about finding bliss
and devouring it in his Korean cuisine craving.
You’ve been to Thamel, right? Good. so I settled with Korean soaps, their cook- “We serve authentic fare here,” explained
It won’t be hard to find this place then. ery show and everything else that gets a Gurung, “We get all of our stuff, the season-
Take the lane that leads you to the Road channel running. Like they say, if you keep ings, the ingredients and the raw materials
House Café. Head straight and stop by its watching anything, something interesting straight from Korea. Our taste is not much
entrance, then turn left. Notice the small will pop up sooner or later. Something did different from what you’d get in Korea. It’s
brightly lit alley that slowly calls to you? come up. that similar.”
Onwards, my friend. A few steps past the
street-side shops that bloom every morning A family of four was busy preparing their Along with Sam Gyeop Sal, we ordered
in Thamel, you’ll notice a small board, to dinner; nothing surprising about that. The some Kimchi Jigae, Bibimbap and Kimbab.
your left. The board says, Korean restau- table was festooned with lots of dishes, dif- It went down well with the main course.
rant. Fear not, don’t let the name intimi- ferent varieties of sauce and greens. Pop! Kimbab, or sushi, can be served as both,
date you; go in and savor the homely ambi- The family produces a flaming stove, rest- starters or along with the main course. I was
ence of the place. If you’d rather prefer an ing it in the middle of the table and starts rather apprehensive at first: my first taste
outdoor setting, march on. See that door frying pork on it. I was flabbergasted! And I of sushi over at a Japanese place had not
in front of you? Yes, the same one from did not understand this strange custom un- gone well. The aroma of the dish did it for
where the sweet aroma is coming from. til I saw it being done for myself. me; it was just too strong for my taste. The
Kimbab I had in Hankook Sarang, howev-
I know you are mesmerized. I too had not “Ah, you must be talking about Sam Gyeop er, had a rather pleasing aroma, made even
expected such a grand sitting arrangement Sal,” says Namgya Wangdi Gurung, owner better when dipped in the soy sauce.
in the garden. This has got to be the way to of the fine Korean restaurant, Hankook Sa-
experience the culinary delights of this in- rang. “It’s a popular dish here in our restau- As in Japanese cuisine, tea plays an im-
teresting Korean eatery that goes by Han- rant too. You get to cook it as you go along.” portant part in Korean meals as well. It is
kook Sarang. The idea as it turns out is to let it cook over served as a welcoming drink and is served
a slow fire, allowing the slow heat to bring as soon as the guest has taken their seat.
My fascination with Korea and all things out the flavor of the meat. The soybean “Notice that subtle flavor?” commented a
Korean started when my television set re- paste and the Banchan that accompanies friend. “It’s supposed to get your appetite
fused to broadcast nothing but Arrirang the dish further enhance the flavor. It tastes going.”
TV one day. I had nothing to do, no books just like a regular pickle, made spicier with
to read and since it was raining all day, an extra bit of grounded black pepper, but And whet our appetites it did. We passed
leaving the house was not an option. And somehow different. It tasted ‘native’. around the Banchan, which there was al-
ways more of, tried our hands at cooking than have one taste push aside another, “The food here reminds me of home.”But
(on the dining table), tried eating rice with the different tastes fused together into a of course, this is what we liked and hence,
chopsticks (not mandatory) and tried to beautiful culinary amalgamation. recommend. We strongly suggest you to
place the distinct taste and pinpoint the not limit yourself with these dishes and
ingredients used. All in all, we had a great And if you can read Korean, somewhere in urge you to choose some interesting com-
time by a warm bonfire, eating under the the last section of the menu, in the com- binations yourself. The staff at the Hank-
stars. The best part of the meal, at least for ment section is a comment written by a ook Sarang is extremely friendly and will
me, was the subtlety of the dishes, of how Korean individual. It reads, “I love coming help you to choose that perfect dish for
the flavors melted into each other. Rather here whenever I am in Nepal,” it reads, your next culinary adventure.
Bibimbap
(Sticky Rice Mixed with Vegetables)
Kimchi jigae
Kimchi
Banchan
If you like fried pork and are a hands-on food aficionado, this
is the dish for you. The best thing about Sam Gyeop Sal is
the soybean paste that accompanies it. It gives a whole new
taste to the dish.
NATURE&WILDLIFE
The Royal
Bengal Tiger
“God made the cat so that man might have the pleasure of
caressing the tiger.”
Viewed with awe and fear because of its kg, the female, about 135-185 kg. Its coat
massive power and admired for its fiery is yellow to light orange, and the stripes
beauty, the shadowed presence of the ma- range from dark brown to black; the belly is
jestic feline permeates the forests where white, and the tail is white with black rings.
it still endures, and echoes hauntingly in The distinct markings are unique to each
those forests from which it has gone ex- individual tiger.
tinct.
The tiger is however a solitary animal. It’s
The largest of the cats and the ultimate most frequent social interactions are be-
predator on land, tigers have existed on the tween the female and her cubs. An adult
Asian sub-continent since prehistoric times, male and female are associated briefly, for
both enthralling and terrifying mankind. two to three days for the purpose of mat-
These are evident from various records and ing. This can take place all year round
descriptions in centuries-old literature and with most tigers preferring the days after
monuments, in the philosophies of Sana- the rainy season. After a gestation period of
tan Hinduism and Buddhism. approximately103 days, two to five cubs are
born to the female. Newborn cubs weigh
The majestic tiger is a fascinating specimen around a kilogram (2.2 lbs) and are blind at
to study. It is capable of killing animals sev- birth. A female with small cubs keeps a low
eral times its own size. The average size of a profile. The cubs depend on the mother
male Bengal tiger is slightly less than three for the first 18 months and then they start
meters; that of a female is about 2.5 m. The hunting on their own. The female tiger
average weight of a male tiger is 180-230 can have cubs as early as at the age of three
years; males reach maturity by the time side or rear and kills its prey with a bite to
they are four. In prime habitat, a tigress the neck or the back of the head.
Tigers gorge themselves
may give birth to cubs every two years, until often consuming 18–20
she is ten years old. The average reproduc- The tiger is the top predator in the food pyr-
tive life of a female is just about six years; amid of a forest ecosystem and consumes a
kg of meat at one time as
whereas, that of the male is less than three variety of animals and as such, it is also an they may not be successful
years. The life span of a tiger in the wild is indicator of the health of that ecosystem.
estimated to be less than twenty years. Bengal tigers are classified as obligate car-
hunting again for several
nivores, meaning that they have a strict diet days.
Tigers are very territorial. They occupy of meat. The tiger is also an opportunistic
relatively large habitats: the size usually hunter, preying upon animals of all sizes, mestic livestock are also preyed upon, if
depends on the prey density of the area. ranging from the adult Gaur, to the Langur found near its habitat. A normal tiger al-
They mark their territories with urine on and birds. The nature of the tiger’s hunt- ways avoids contact with human beings.
trees and bushes and by marking their trav- ing method and prey availability results in a Hunger though, is the most likely factor
eling route by scraping the ground. Its ideal ‘feast or famine’ feeding style. Tigers gorge that overrides the tiger’s aversion to man.
habitat includes forests with tall alluvial themselves often consuming 18–20 kg of The incidence of man-eating cases has
grasslands that have water. Such habitat meat at one time as they may not be hunt- however been associated with a number of
provides sufficient cover for concealment, ing again for several days. reasons: an incapacitated tiger, the escala-
for stalking its prey, and for hiding its kills. tion of competition among males, distur-
Tigers have dens in caves, tree hollows and In Nepal, specifically, the tiger preys upon bances in the natural predator-prey bal-
dense vegetation. Dependent on sight and a wide variety of prey species, including the ance, due to increased human interference
hearing rather than smell, the tiger stalks its Sambar deer, swamp deer, spotted deer, in and around its habitat and the tigers be-
prey and once it is close, attacks from the hog deer, barking deer, and wild pig. Do- ing pushed to a marginal habitat.
festivalwatch
Gadhi Mai
Mela
A Journey of Hope
Every five years, the people of Bariyarpur ing two Hindu festivals while in Nepal, the yapur from Birgunj rendered most visitors
in Bara district ready themselves to witness thousands of Indian devotees had made speechless. The sheer number of people
one of the most popular Hindu festivals in their way to Bariyarpur via Birgunj. who had decided on taking this journey
the country – the Gadhi Mai Mela (festi- seemed to have brought with them an al-
val). Goddess Gadhi Mai’s modest temple The scene in Birgunj was no less busy than most tangible energy and sense of faith and
resides in this dusty little town, an hour and it surely was in Bariyarpur. The industrial joy. The air seemed charged with positive
a half’s drive away from the industrial town town is no tourist haven and hotels, lodges vibes. Men, women, children, the elderly
of Birgunj, in Parsa district of southern Ne- and restaurants there cater mostly to visit- had all crowded into trucks, buses and auto
pal. During the festival, devotees throng ing businessmen and locals. Never before rickshaws to get here. An old tractor strug-
this small village to pay their respects to had hotels and lodges in Birgunj been so gled with pulling along two trailers packed
Goddess Gadhi Mai. This year visitors jam packed as during the festival. Restau- beyond capacity with devotees of all ages,
came from as far away as Bihar in India as rants and shops teemed with the unfamil- their beddings as well as the animals they
well as neighboring towns, often crowding iar faces of tourists. Whereas traffic usually had brought along to sacrifice here. Aston-
already narrow roads. A lot of Indian devo- dies down by eight in the evening there, ishing numbers of people walked all the
tees had come to Janakpur, east of Birgunj, this time around, auto-rickshaws and trac- way to the festival, some of them doing so
for another huge Hindu festival - Bibaha tors carried devotees from across the border for more than a week. A lot of them had
Panchami, the marriage of Ram and Sita, towards Bariyarpur well past midnight. chosen to walk barefoot. They considered
characters from the Hindu epic Ramayana. the whole trail to the temple to be holy
Not being able to resist the lure of attend- The festive atmosphere on the way to Bari- ground. “There is no way we would walk
in with impure chappals,” said one woman,
The festive atmosphere on the way to Bariyapur her face partially veiled with one end of her
from Birgunj rendered most visitors speechless. sari.
4
Astonishing numbers of people
walked all the way to the
festival, some of them doing so
for more than a week.
1. Devotees of all ages made it to the Gadhi
Mai Mela
2. The crowds at the Mela
3. A carnival in full swing behind the temple
premises
4. The sun sets on the fields surrounding the
temple
2 3