Professional Documents
Culture Documents
2010-2012
Submitted by:
Nalin kumar
Rajesh kumar Mishra
Roopam Nayak
This report marks the completion of the two week industrial training programme undertaken
as a part of M.F.Tech curriculum.
We are highly thankful to Mr. Devanshu Narang, C.E.O.,Sarla Fabric Pvt. Ltd. firstly for
permitting us to undertake this training at such a modern processing house and overall for
the facilities that were made available for us in all the possible ways during this period. We
are also thankful to Mr.Sachin (HR Dept.),for guiding us during the training period.
We are also indebted to all the staff members and the workers of the Sarla Fabric Pvt. Ltd.
Chapter II Weaving
WORK PROCESSES Processing
Chapter IV
• Printing
MINOR PROJECTS
• Sanforizing
UNDERTAKEN
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION
Company Profile
Group philosophy
Organizational Structure
INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY - INTRODUCTION
Overview
The Textile Sector in India ranks next to Agriculture. Textile is one of India’s oldest industries
and has a formidable presence in the national economy in as much as it contributes to about
14 per cent of manufacturing value-addition, accounts for around one-third of our gross
export earnings and provides gainful employment to millions of people. The textile industry
occupies a unique place in our country. One of the earliest to come into existence in India, it
accounts for 14% of the total Industrial production, contributes to nearly 30% of the total
exports and is the second largest employment generator after agriculture.
Textile Industry is providing one of the most basic needs of people and the holds importance;
maintaining sustained growth for improving quality of life. It has a unique position as a self-
reliant industry, from the production of raw materials to the delivery of finished products, with
substantial value-addition at each stage of processing; it is a major contribution to the
country's economy. This paper deals with structure, growth and size of the Indian textile
industry, role of textile industry in economy, key advantages of the industry, textile industry
export and global scenario and strength, weakness, opportunities and treats of the Indian
textile industry.
• Composite Mills. Relatively large-scale mills that integrate spinning, weaving and,
sometimes, fabric finishing are common in other major textile-producing countries. In
India, however, these types of mills now account for about only 3 percent of output in the
textile sector. About 276 composite mills are now operating in India, most owned by the
public sector and many deemed financially “sick.”
• Spinning. Spinning. is the process of converting cotton or manmade fiber into yarn to be
used for weaving and knitting. Largely due to deregulation beginning in the mid-1980s,
spinning is the most consolidated and technically efficient sector in India’s textile industry.
Average plant size remains small, however, and technology outdated, relative to other
major producers. In 2002/03, India’s spinning sector consisted of about 1,146 small-scale
independent firms and 1,599 larger scale independent units.
• Weaving and Knitting. Weaving and knitting converts cotton, manmade, or blended yarns
into woven or knitted fabrics. India’s weaving and knitting sector remains highly
fragmented, small-scale, and labor-intensive. This sector consists of about 3.9 million
handlooms, 380,000 “powerloom” enterprises that operate about 1.7 million looms, and just
137,000 looms in the various composite mills. “Powerlooms” are small firms, with an
average loom capacity of four to five owned by independent entrepreneurs or weavers.
Modern shuttleless looms account for less than 1 percent of loom capacity.
• Fabric Finishing. Fabric finishing (also referred to as processing), which includes dyeing,
printing, and other cloth preparation prior to the manufacture of clothing, is also dominated
by a large number of independent, small scale enterprises. Overall, about 2,300
processors are operating in India, including about 2,100 independent units and 200 units
that are integrated with spinning, weaving, or knitting units.
Government Initiatives
With a view to raise India's share in the global textiles trade to 10 per cent by 2015 (from the
current 3 per cent), the Ministry of Textiles proposes 50 new textile parks. Out of the 50, 30
have been already sanctioned by the government (with a cost of US$ 710 million). Set up
under the Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP), this initiative will not only make the
industry cost competitive, but will also enhance manufacturing capacity in the sector.
Government Initiatives
With a view to raise India's share in the global textiles trade to 10 per cent by 2015 (from the
current 3 per cent), the Ministry of Textiles proposes 50 new textile parks. Out of the 50, 30
have been already sanctioned by the government (with a cost of US$ 710 million). Set up
under the Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP), this initiative will not only make the
industry cost competitive, but will also enhance manufacturing capacity in the sector.
Apart from the above, a series of progressive measures have been planned to strengthen the
textile sector in India:
• Technology Mission on Cotton (TMC)
• Technology Upgradation fund Scheme (TUFS)
• Setting up of Apparel Training and Design Centres (ATDCs)
• 100 per cent Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) in the textile sector under automatic route.
• Setting up two design centres in Gujarat in collaboration with National Institute of Fashion
Technology.
• Setting up a Handloom Plaza in Ahmedabad with an estimated investment of US$ 24.6
million.
• Revival plans of the mills run by National Textiles Corporation (NTC). Already, for the
revival of 18 textile mills, US$ 2.21 million worth of machineries has been ordered for the
upgradation and modernisation of these mills.
• Setting up a handloom mall with an investment of US$ 24.6 million at Jehangir Mill in
Ahmedabad.
• Scrapping of the Textile Committee cess being collected from the textile and textile
machinery industry under the Textile Committee Act.
In a further bid to bolster the envisaged annual growth rate of 11 per cent, the Government
will also increase the TUF (Technology Upgradation Fund) from US$ 124 million in 2006-07
to US$ 211 million in 2007-08.
The Government of India has also included new schemes in the Annual Plan for 2007-08 to
provide a boost to the textile sector.
These include schemes for Foreign Investment Promotion to attract foreign direct investment
in textiles, clothing and machinery; Brand Promotion on Public-Private Partnership (PPP)
approach to develop global acceptability of Indian apparel brands; Trade Facilitation Centres
for Indian image branding; Fashion Hubs for creation of permanent market place for the
benefit of Indian fashion industry; Common Compliance Code to encourage acceptability
among apparel buyers and Training Centres for Human Resource Development on Public
Private Partnership (PPP) mode.
In global scenario
Developed countries' exports declined
from 52.2% share in 1990 to 37.8 % in
2005. And that of developing countries
increased from 47.8% to 62.2 % in the
same period. In 2003 the exports figures
in percentage of the world trade in
Textiles Group (for select countries)
were:
The above chart clearly shows that export of world trade in textile group. Among world textile
group EU occupies 34.80% of export, next China at 15.90%, USA at 6.40%, Republic of
Korea at 6.00% Taipei, Ch at 5.50%, India and Japan at 3.80% respectively, Pakistan at
3.40%, turkey at 3.10% and Mexico at 1.20%.
Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/2/104/indian-textile-industry-an-overview4.asp
In Clothing Sector the figures were as below
in 2007 in percentage of total experts
globally:
Export Scenario:
Textiles contributed 20% of India's exports to
about US $ 12.5 Billion. The Quota Countries Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/2/104/indian-
textile-industry-an-overview4.asp
mainly USA, EU (15) and Canada constituted
70 % of total garment exports and 40% of India's textiles exports. In non-quota countries
UAE is the largest market with 7% of textile exports and 10% of garment exports from India
The above table clearly depicts the export of
readymade garments for the last five years.
In the year of 2004-2005 the value of export
of readymade garment is 395.23 and in the
year 2008-2009 the value is 8200.00. From
2004-2005 it started increasing and in the
year 2007-2008 it declines and again in the India’s Exports: In US $ Billion Year 2008-09
year 2008-2009 it increases.
Strength
Weakness
• Indian Textile Industry is highly Fragmented Industry.
• Industry is highly dependent on Cotton.
• Lower Productivity in various segments.
• There is Declining in Mill Segment.
• Lack of Technological Development that affect the productivity and other activities in whole
value chain.
• Infrastructural Bottlenecks and Efficiency such as, Transaction Time at Ports and
transportation Time.
• Unfavourable labour Laws.
• Lack of Trade Membership, which restrict to tap other potential market.
• Lacking to generate Economies of Scale.
• Higher Indirect Taxes, Power and Interest Rates.
Opportunity
• Growth rate of Domestic Textile Industry is 6-8% per annum.
• Large, Potential Domestic and International Market.
• Product development and Diversification to cater global needs.
• Elimination of Quota Restriction leads to greater Market Development.
• Market is gradually shifting towards Branded Ready-made Garment.
• Increased Disposable Income and Purchasing Power of Indian Customer opens New
Market Development.
• Emerging Retail Industry and Malls provide huge opportunities for the
• Apparel, Handicraft and other segments of the industry.
• Greater Investment and FDI opportunities are available.
Threats
• Competition from other developing countries, especially China.
• Continuous Quality Improvement is need of the hour as there are different demand
patterns all over the world.
• Elimination of Quota system will lead to fluctuations in Export Demand.
• Threat for Traditional Market for Power loom and Hand loom Products and forcing them for
product diversification.
• International labour and Environmental Laws.
• To balance the demand and supply.
• To make balance between price and quality.
Conclusion
The Indian textile industry has a significant presence in the Indian economy as well as in the
international textile economy. Its contribution to the Indian economy is manifested in terms of
its contribution to the industrial production, employment generation and foreign exchange
earnings. The industry also contributes significantly to the world production of textile fibres
and yarns including jute. In the world textile scenario, it is the largest producer of jute, second
largest producer of silk, third largest producer of cotton and cellulosic fibre\yarn and fifth
largest producer of synthetic fibre\yarn. Textile Industry is providing one of the most basic
needs of people and the holds importance; maintaining sustained growth for improving quality
of life. The Government of India has also included new schemes in the Annual Plan for 2007-
08 to provide a boost to the textile sector. These include schemes for Foreign Investment
Promotion to attract foreign direct investment in textiles, clothing and machinery etc.
COMPANY PROFILE
Sarla Fabric Pvt Limited, established in 1994, is a part of Shahi Exports Group, one of the
largest garments Manufacturer and Exporter of India. Building upon its’ strength in state-of-
the-art fabric process house with a production capacity of 42 million meters per annum.
All kinds of Woven Fabrics like Poplin, Twill, Canvas, Cambric & Voile etc. weighing from
50 GSM to 500 GSM made of Cotton, Linen & Rayon blends and Stretch Fabrics are
processed to International standards. We process Georgette, Moss Crepe of Rayon and
Cotton Crepe. We print Reactive (Procion), Vat color discharge on reactive ground &
Pigments.
Sarla Fabric embarked upon a course of natural progression and entered into the fabric
manufacturing business in the year 2007. They have the in state-of-the-art weaving facility
with a capacity of 9 million meters per annum. The weaving plant is well equipped with the
latest technology of Air-jet Toyota looms; Beninger preparatory etc. & can weave all kind
of cotton grey fabric like Dobbies, Twills, Poplins & Yarn dyeds etc.
They supply the finished products to the world class buyers. Top five Buyers where they
supply our finished Products: 1) Wal-Mart, 2) Target, 3) GAP, 4) H&M, 5) Impulse etc.
Printing Screen
Rotary Screen Engraver Luescher Germany
Engraving
Employees
Great organizations are built by the synergy of a great team. In case of SFPL, the total
number of employees is around 770
• Quality should be built into company's products to not only meet customer requirements
continuously but also exceed them. The company shall achieve this through an interface
with the market place, access to state of the art technology, R&D process development
and adoption of innovative manufacturing and marketing strategies.
• The quality policy shall be implemented through a network of systems and procedures
understood and followed throughout the company.
• The quality policy shall be integrated with the company's main objectives :
1. To remain market leader in the quality.
2. Increase market share with focus on niche segments.
3. Improved productivity.
4. Cost reduction.
5. Reduction in percentage of seconds.
The management shall be committed to provide capital and human resources to achieve the
above objectives. A Company wide quality culture shall be created through training and
motivation of people at all levels of organization.
ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE
CHAPTER II
WORK PROCESSES
Process flow
Weaving
Finishing
System Module Activity
Order development module-
Objective:-
To access activities involved in development of an order and to record orders
from developing stage.
Activity:-
1. Lab dip / design sample receiving from party.
2. Lab dip / design preparation.
3. Lab dip / design preparation sent to party for approval.
4. Approval confirmation / rejection from party.
5. Recording receive data for approval labdip.
6. Recording data related to shrinkage, design coverage, shade group and other technical
attributes.
7. Introducing process flows to execute the order.
Department involved:-
Laboratory, design
Implication:-
An order is initiated far before it is introduced in the system, an order begins
with lab dip/ design development stage and for execution of an order in an improved way if is
preferable to start recording activities of an order from beginning. Receipt of an order
depends upon processing of lab dip, how often we are successful in meeting requirement
standards of our customers / buyers. Recording of data related of data to this development
will help management to measure performance of our development process. Through
analysis of this data management can identify areas of improvement and work on it and
result there of.
Benefits:-
Production / PPC
• Production /PPC people can capitalize on experience of developing departments.
Lab
• Will help lab to generate recipe of dyed and chemical required for execution of an order.
Costing
• To determine of an order.
• Cost of an order will recorded from right stage.
Marketing
• Providing basis for arriving at job rate, commercial shrinkage and other technical
attributes.
• Process flow will help to accept a feasible due date to complete the under.
• Through analysis of received designs / lab dip, trends in market can be judged.
• Parties / customer appraisal analysis.
Top management
• Management can judge performance of departments involved in development.
• Identify areas of improvement.
PROCESS FLOW
Yarn supplier
1. Auro Spinning Mills Baddi 13. VTM Ludhiana
2. Arihant Spinning Mill Malerkotla 14. Shivatex
3. V.S.G.M. 100% E.O.U. Baddi 15. Vaibhav
4. Arist Spinning Mills Baddi 16. Nitin spinners
5. V.M.T. Spinning Co. 17. Shrivishnu
6. Pratap Industries Ltd. (7s, 10s, 14s, 16s, O.E.) 18. Sandhya
7. Fertichem Cotspin Ltd. (7s, 10s, 14s, 1s, O.E.) 19. Rajapalayam
8. Indo Rama Industries Ltd. (Polyester Yarn) 20. Aruntex
9. Glofame Spinning. 21. S. Lalitha
10. Nahar Group 22. Thanjavar
11. Arti international ludhiana 23. Rajapa
12. Dhar Industries
WEAVING DEPARTMENT
Warping
Warping is a process of making warper's beam of specified number of ends,
pattern and width from uniform cones/cheeses of specified count. All the ends in sheet should
wound at almost uniform tension. The density of wound yarn beam should be uniform across
the width & from start to end of winding sheet. This beam further goes for sizing.
Direct Warping
It consists of preparing number of full width warping beam with required length,
called as one set. The total no of ends warped in number's of beam depending on the
capacity of creel. These all beams of one set put together on sizing creel for the sizing
process, which result in formation of weaver's beam.
Sectional Warping
If forms section by section on to the section drum of specified no of ends and
width. After completion of these sections, drum is unwound on the warper's beam that is then
sent to the sizing department.
Beam diameter
Creel measurements
Height between two packages 27.2 cms
Horizontal distance 24.5 cms
Fluff removal Internal blower
Yarn Passage
Cone balloon breaker tension bars yarn stop motion zig-zag comb measuring
roller press roller warper's beam.
There is clamping and declamping device attached to pulley which get the drives through
motors attached on each side. Apart from this there is presser roll which is given drive by
hydraulic system. This roller provides pressure to beam essential for proper winding. Friction
drive is not given as it may damage the yarn.
• To comb
Motor through chain to shaft comb attached on shaft.
The comb has a zig zag shape (9 ends, 13 ends) and it moves to and fro as well as up and
down. The main function of the comb is proper beam formation i.e. close packing and also
separation of threads. To and fro movement ensures the close packing of ends while up and
down movement is to evade reed damage by friction.
Comb is driven by three motors one for to and fro motion, one for up and down and third one
for controlling the comb dent density.
• Pre tension settings –
Here setting of tension rod depth is done through scale on the creel. Screw is set at the
required scale and then the shaft containing tension rod is engaged to the screw and then
the shaft containing tension rod is engaged to the screw and then the machine runs. The
tension rods are actuated mechanically It is actuated 3 sec after the machine starts.
Creeling time :-
Yarn passed through pretension rods, drop wire time taken is 30 minutes Time for combing is
10 minutes so total time taken in creeling is 50 minutes.
Features
• Advanced microprocessor than Ben-1000 and touch screen type of control panel and
display screen.
• Monitor on the creel front to show the exact position of the broken end otherwise total no.
of ends in the creel should be checked.
• Yarn passage and drive system same as Ben-dir 1000.
• Yarn stop motion is electronic with sensors.
• Pre tensioner settings are done on computer.
• Number of ends fed in the computer = no. of end stop motions.
• Advanced microprocessor display mechanism.
• Highly efficient brake system (with very small time). So the broken end doesn't wind on the
beam.
• Lay panel.
Rewinding m/c
Make RJK
No. of spindles 32 (16 on each sides)
Tensioner spring type
Speed 500-1000 rpm
Stop Motion electrical type
Sizing
Object of sizing is to increase weaveabilty of warp yarns by improving their abrasion
resistance and strength which plays major role during shed formation at loom.
Good sizing depends upon three very import factors i.e.
• Size paste composition
• Method of preparation
• Its application to the warp yarns
The sizing paste should have film forming property on the yarn which increases its strength,
decreases its abrasion resistance; is still flexible on drying and which can be easily washed
out (desized).
Size Preparation
Size is prepared at the first floor and transferred to machine with the help of pipes. Size
preparation includes following steps -
Pre-mixer cooking vessel storage vessel sizing machines (through
pipes)
1. Pre-mixer - First all the chemicals are mixed here with the help of stirrer for 5 - 10 min.
Then mixture is transferred to cooking vessels through pipes. There is one premixer for all
cooking vessels. It has capacity of 1595 liters.
Bottom 5" have capacity of 110 Litre then capacity/inch is 29 Litre .
2. Cooking vessel - There are 2 cooking vessels each with a max.Capacity of 1200 litre
mfd by Karandas Becharadas & Sons (Ahamedabad). Cooking is done through direct and
indirect steam for 45 minutes. The conditions inside cooker are :
Pressure = 2.5-3 kg
Temperature = 130-1350C
Capacity: bottom 5" is of 90 litre then 27 litre per inch.
3. Storage vessel - From cooking vessel size is transferred to storage vessel where it is
stored at the temperature of 85-90 C and with continuous stirring for further transfer to
machine according to the requirements. Supervisor checks the viscosity and solid content
before transferring the prepared size to machine.
Size Ingredients
• Maize starch :- It is an adhesive and exhibits all the properties of native starch. It is non
foaming.
• P.V.A. Evanol: - Better binder and suitable in case of P/C blends as it has affinity for
polyester also.
• Sico-12:- It is also an acrylic binder generally used for finer count Apart from these
antistatic agents, antifungal agents are also used. Antistatic agents are used for P/C
blended yarns and antifungal used if the beam is to be kept for longer duration.
Sizing Machines
Benninger Sizing Machine
Made = 2007
Capacity = 16 beams with 1 sectional beam
Size boxes = 2 (if cover factor is<50 than use only one size box
otherwise 2)
Squeeze rolls = 2 in each size box
Size rolls = 2 in each size box
Emerson roll = 2 in each size box
Feed roll = 2
Maximum running speed = 1235 mpm
Operative running speed = 80 mpm
Drying cylinders = 4+4+2+2+2=14
Teflon coated cylinders = 4+4+2=10
Cylinder's dia. = 800 mm
Cylinder's length = 2000 mm
Beam width = 1800 mm or 70.8"
Barrel dia. = 178 mm
Cylinder temperature for zone 1= 1450C
For zone 2= 145 0C
For Zone 3 = 1350C
For Zone 4 = 1350C
For Zone 5 = 1350C
It is always recommended to keep temperature of each zone lesser by 200C
Size box temperature: 900C
Beam stretch: 0.5-0.7/100m (fine)
0.8-1/100m (coarse)
Beam pressure: 1710 N (14 X…..gm/m)
Creel tension: 800 N (5 X…..gm/m)
Leasing tension: 11.5 X……gm/m
Winding tension 16 X……gm/m
Braking motion: Pneumatic auto control
Moisture regain: 7 (cotton), 4 (polyester/cotton)
Size level control: automatic
Some Important Points
• Single dip single nip system, hence more chances of yarn being left unsized.
• Though it has system for sectional beam but generally not preferred as single dip doesn't
give better pick up thereby increasing the chances of ball formation during weaving.
• All the drying cylinders are Teflon coated except the last two, as yarn dries completely
before reaching the last two cylinders.
• Brake is applied on the creel (beam) through belts.
• There is stretch encoder at feed roll, size roll, dryer motor, drag roll motor (i.e. Headstock)
and winder motor, which calculates the speed in each zone thereby giving stretch value in
each zone (generally 0.1-0.2%).
DRAWING IN
4500 ends are drawn/shift/2 operative for plain sorts.
PASSAGE
Beam –guide bar- comb -warp stop pin- steel heald wire- profile reed - comb fixed with
parallel to heald.
HEALD WIRE SPECIFICATION
1.2 –Thin for fine count
1.8 –Thick for coarse count
If machine condition will be good then, it can be used till 15-20 years.
MATERIAL USED
Steel-tempered stainless steel
REED
Profile reed – Mayur (left hand side greater width and RHS Smaller width)
-Takayama-(same width)
DROP PIN
Type- Closed type drop pin
Material used-Copper
TYPE-YKC-11122
SIZE- 0.3*11*165
MANUFACTURER-
Yosinaka
COLOUR SPECIFICATION :- White-Fine count (1.2),Brown-Coarse count (1.8)
LOOM SHED :- Here only one loom shed having a total of 54 looms. Looms are air jet
Toyota JAT 710.
Loom no. 1-48 are cam shedding & loom no.49-54 are E-Shedding.
GRADING
Here the fabric is graded according to the fault in the fabric.
a. Fresh piece
b. Domestic
c. Rejection
d. Cut piece, rags and chindi
Machine In Folding
a. Inspection machines- there are total 9 inspection machines for The fabric inspection,
Manufacture is Almac. The speed of the inspection is kept 20-25 mpm.
b. Folding or flatting machines- There are 2 folding machines used for forming the bale of
the fabric.
c. Rolling machine- there is one rolling machine for forming the roll of the cloth
d. Bale pressing machine- There are 2 bale pressing machine for pressing the bale.
e. Mending table- There mending tables for reworking i.e. for mending the damages if
possible.
Mendable Damages
The damages which could be reworked include pick, snarling, ball formation and double
ends.
After packing most of the fabric is then send for dyeing and finishing in AURO TEXTILE
Quality Assurance (R& D Department)
The work of R&D department is research and development of processes for controlled and
better efficiency and quality of weaving and also to check the quality of the raw material and
the processes.
METHODS OF DESIZING
The two types of desizing methods practised in Sarla Fabric Pvt. Ltd. are:
• Enzymatic desizing
• Oxidative desizing
Machine Used: Osthoff, Germany.
Model: VP99
Enzymatic Desizing
Enzymes liquefy starch in enzymatic desizing process. Enzymes are fairly sensitive to
temperature changes from the optimum. Bacterial desizing agents are active over a wider
temperature range and have certain other advantages, like tolerance of variation in pH.
Enzymes suffer from one disadvantage that if the conditions of temperature and pH are not
favourable, their desizing activity is destroyed. An outstanding feature of enzyme desizing is
the specific nature of the enzyme action.
In enzymatic desizing, the following auxiliaries are used:
• PHC → Enzyme
•ANTOX → Chelating Agent
•XNI → Stain Remover
Trough Batching
Speed Dwell Time Batching
GLM Temperature Pressure
(m/min) (sec) Time (hrs)
(ºC) (bar)
<100 90-100 65 16 2.5 8-10
100-200 80 65 19 2-2.5 8-10
200-300 70-80 65 20 2-2.5 8-12
300-400 70-75 70 21 1.5-2 10-12
>400 70 70 21 1.5-2 10-12
Oxidative Desizing
In the oxidative desizing, hydrogen peroxide is used as the desizing agent. In oxidative
desizing the starch is oxidised and this process is also known as grey chemicking.
In oxidative desizing, the following chemicals are used:
•H2O2 → Desizing Agent
•ANTOX → Chelating Agent
•Hostapol MRN → Wetting Agent
•SIFA M → Stabiliser
•SPS → Oxidising Agent
•Caustic → Scouring/Maintain pH
Trough
Speed Dwell Time Batching Batching
GLM Temperature
(m/min) (sec) Pressure (bar) Time (hrs)
(ºC)
300-400
>400
FLOW OF MATERIAL
BLEACHING
• Hydrogen peroxide is a universal bleaching agent and is used extensively for the
bleaching of cotton materials. The advantages in its use are:
• It can be employed for bleaching fibres like wool, silk and jute also;
• It requires less manipulation of fabric and hence less labour;
• The loss in weight in bleaching is less than that with hypochlorite bleaching;
• Less water is required with peroxide bleaching and there is no need for souring after
bleaching;
• Peroxide bleached goods are more absorbent than hypochlorite bleached goods;
• After yellowing of white goods bleached with peroxide is less than with hypochlorite
bleached goods;
• Peroxide bleaching is safer in regard to chemical degradation and
• Continuous scouring and bleaching in one operation is possible by employing peroxide.
PROCEDURE
• All organic material will be placed at specified area at the time of receiving.
• Clean the machine as per guideline.
CBR
1) Take fresh water in all washing compartments and Impecta and clean. Drain the water and
again take fresh water for production.
2) As we are using all chemicals, which are GOTS certified, same chemicals can be used for
GOTS.
3) Guide rolls at entry points must be cleaned with hot water.
Sr No. Recipe
Quality
Flow Of Material
Recipes Of The Mercerising Machine
Jigger
This machine is used for dyeing the cotton fabric. Fabric is used in open width form in
this machine. In this, cloth moves from one roller (let-off roller) to another roller (take-up
roller) through trough or liquor. After one complete turn, the movement of fabric get reversed
i.e. Let-off becomes take-up and take-up becomes let-off roller automatically thus the
required number of turns are given to the fabric. Thus in this machine, liquor is stationary
and fabric moves.
• Machine name Jigger(old)
• Manufacture Shakti
• No. Of jigger 6(2 for sample)
• No. Of worker 1 for 1 machine
• Capacity 250kg
• Heating system indirect to direct
• Speed of fabric 40-45mt/min
• MLR 1:2,1:4
• Diameter of roller 250mm
• Width of roller 2000mm
• Time for 1 batch 10-12hr(reactive)
• Production 2000m/day per machine
Hydraulic jigger
It is almost same as old jigger, but only change is that it is fully automatic,
microprocessor control and its capacity is high.
• Machine name hydraulic jigger
• Manufacture Shakti
• No. Of machine 1
• Capacity 350kg
• Trough capacity 2000lt
• Max. Temp. 100c
• Dyeing temp. 60-70c
• Heating system direct or indirect
Steps of dyeing in jigger
S.no. Step temp.(0c) turns
1. Loading 50 -
2. Add resist salt 50 2
3. Dyeing 50 2
4. Salt addition10% 60 2
5. Dyeing 60 2
6. Salt addition30% 60 2
7. Dyeing 60 2
8. Salt addition60% 60 2
9. Fixation(soda ash) 70-80 4
10. Overflow wash R.T. 4
11. Soaping 80 4
12. Hotwash 50 2
13. Coldwash R.T 2
Continuous dyeing range
Two m/cs constitutes the whole continuous dyeing range.
A pad dry
B pad steam
Pad dry
1.M/c make Benninger (Germany)
2.Mangle make Kusters
3.Thread length 140 mts.
4.Man power required 1 operator+1helper
5.Speed 60 mts./ min
Brief description of the machine
Operation of the machine can divided into following sections
Feeding
• Fabric is fed from batch
• Fabric is guided through rollers, tensioners and scray to the padding zone.
• Presence of scray helps to feed the fabric uninterruptedly during the change of the
batch.
Padding
• Fabric is padded with dye liqour in the kuster’s mangle present in this
machine
• Capacity of the trough 60 litres
• Pneumatic and oil pressure is applied in the squeeze roller to get the uniform
expression through out the width of the fabric
• Padding pressure is
Cooling cylinders
After drying the fabric it is cooled by passing it over two cooling cylinders (cooled by passing
chilled water). This cooling is done to minimize the selvedge to selvedge variation.
Defects During Pad – Dry System
• Dropping – mainly in hot flue dryer thus check suction system properly.
• Crease marks – takes place in hot flue dryer and in ir dryer.
• Tailing effect
• Dark to light shade
• Colour spots
• Colour spurs
• Power failure
pad system
• M/c make Benninger (Germany)
• Thread length 360 mts
• Man power required two operators and one helper
• Average operational speed 50-60 mts/min.
Purpose of the machine
• In this machine color (reactive or vat) color is developed on the fabric after it is
being pigmented in the pad-dry machine.
• This machine can also be used as washing machine, when the chemical input in
the machine is cut off and steamer is also kept out of operation.
Brief description about the machine
Feed zone
Feed material is the output of the pad-dry machine in case of development
of the dyed fabric.
Fabric is guided from the guide rollers, tensioners and scray to the padding
section.
Presence of scray at the feed helps in uninterrupted feeding of material at
the feed section.
Fabric tension during is controlled automatically.
Padding zone
Name :- booster padding mangle
In this zone fabric is padded with developing chemicals
Expression of the mangle :- 90-100%
Capacity of the trough :- 60 lts.
Padding chemical temp :-. Room temp
Steaming zone
In this zone reaction of the developing chemical with the dye takes place.
Thread length in the steamer50mts.
Steam supply (dry steam) 112º C
Steam mix temp. (saturated) 90º C
Steamer inside temp. 99º C
Roof heating 112º C
Washing zone
Purpose of washing zone
For reactive dyes
• Removal of the unfixed, partially deposited and hydrolysed dyes.
For vat dyes
• Removal of the unfixed, partially deposited and hydrolysed dyes.
• Soaping causes the aggregation of dye molecules inside the fibres after which
final shade is achieved.
Cooling zone
• No. of cooling cylinders - two
• Temp. of cooling water - room temp
Drying zone
Type of drying vertical cylinder drying range
No. Of drying cylinders 10+10
Dimensions of cylinders 32” * 72”
Pressure of steam in the cylinder 50 lbs/in sq
Steam consumption 60 kg/hr/cylinder
Checking points :
• Level of the chemical liquor inside the kuster mangle is regularly checked.
• Conc. of NaOH (during development of reactive dyes) is checked.
• Conc. of hydrosulphite (during development of vat dyes) is checked.
Procedure
Take 10 ml of hydros solution to be tested. To it add 10 ml of formaldehyde solution. Make it
to 250 ml. In the volumetric flask with distilled water. Take 25 ml> of the above prepared
solution end point of titration is brick red color
Hydros (gpl) = reading of burette * 4.35
Printing
Printing department can be divided into following sections
1. Printing studio.
2. Print color kitchen.
3. Printing section.
4. Curing and steaming section.
5. Washing zone.
Printing studio:-
Objective:- the main objective of the print studio is to transfer the design obtained from the
buyer on to a perforated screen, so that the design become print able. Tracers in this
department adjusts the repeat size of the design to a factor of 64.2 cms (the circumference of
the print roller) this enables a perfect repetition of the design during printing. The tracers also
make any alteration in the design as may be demanded by the party. The screen rollers once
prepared are preserved for future use.
Flow charts:
1. Receiving of order
• Order is received in the form of a
• Swatch
• Cad paper
• Hand made by artist
• Garment cutting
It also contains sample no, production no, buyer’s name, amount of production and delivery
date.
2.Tracing the design:-the design samples comes to tracer who first makes the repeat size
of the design. The repeat size must be a factor of 64.02 cms which is the circumfrence of the
screen roller. Once the repeat size is adjusted the teacer finds number of colour present in
the design.then he traces each part of the design of different color on diferent paper called
tracing film (polyester paper) by fine nib with black ink.
3. Enlarging of repeat size:- each repeat unit of different color is enlarged on photo
sensitive paper by using violet light. Time taken in this process is 60-90 secs.
4. Developing:- the enlarged sheet is then developed in ammonia solution for 30-60 sec.
Design positive is produced on the photosensitive paper on which design part changes to
black colour. Hence the bld (bright light developed).
Flow Chart For Making Of Screen Rollers.
1.Rounding off: round screen made of nickel alloy (available from market) is rounded off by
placing it in a chamber at 180*c for 45min.
2.Coating:-ni- screen rollers are coated by photo emulsion & centiliser mixture.
3.Climetising:- here the chemical coating over the screen roller is dried by hot air at 45c for
20-25 mins.
4.Exposing:- coated Ni screen roller is mounted on a rubber which is inflated with air. Bld
negative is wrapped at one side (say lhs) of the roller other parts are covered by paper &
U.V. Light is projected on it for 3-4 mins. Same operation is done for the total width of the
screen roller. The design portion (black) of the negative prevents the U.V. Light to go through
it. So the photo emulsion under it remains soft U.V.ray falls on the other portion of the roller
& the photo emulsion over there gets hardened by chemical reaction.
5. Washing:- the roller is then washed by water in a water bath for 10 mins. Here unreacted
soft part of photo emulsion is washed off by a piece of sponge. now the design portion which
was turned to black on bld paper,becomes opaque on the screen roller, then the roller is
dried.
6.Checking:- the roller is then thoroughly checked. The pores of the design portion are
properly opened by water. Undesirable pores are also covered by colour.
7. Curing:- chemicals on the screen roller are cured in the curing m/c by hot air at 180c for
2 hrs.
8. Rechecking:- rechecking & reqd. Manipulation of the screen roller is done.
9. Preparation of rfp roll:- finally two aluminium rings are attached at both edges of the
roller with araldite. The roller is now ready for printing.
Design Department
In this design department , sample designs are developed on the computer with matching of
design as well as their creativity. They have used designing software and print out the design
on paper. If the design is very fine and complicated then it is prepared on paper by hand with
help of experts.
• Machine name hp design jet 500
• Manufacture hp
• Used for paper print
• Paper used mtltifilm,Transparent clear film
• Speed 6inch/min
• No. Of colour 4
As the name suggest this section of printing of printing department is concerned with print
paste preparation, which is made readily available for printing. Two different methods for print
paste preparation, one for pigment and other for discharge printing.
For colour discharge, we use the same recipe but with the addition of colour (non-
dischargeable).
Preparation of Hindustan gum
50kg of Hindustan gum powder is mixed with 100kg of water & fast stirring is done for 10-12
min. Then it is taken in a tumbler and slow stirring is done for 10-12 hrs. From this paste 6% is
added to the main stock paste.
Preparation of the printing paste
All the chemicals of stock paste are mixed thoroughly in the PVC container by means of a
motor driven stirrer for 1 to1.5 hrs again the vat colour as per the shade, is dissolved in water,
stirred well and mixed with the stock paste. This mixture is stirred for 10-15 min. This paste is
ready to be used for printing.
Printing section
Printing machine
• Name of m/c Rotary screen printing m/c
• Machine make Laxmi
• No. of machine 2
• Total no. of printing rollers 12
• No. of chamber in drying zone 5
• No. of dryer fans 10
• No. of exhaust fans 3
• No. of radiators 5
• Temp. of drying chambers 1090C, 1220C, 1370C, 1500C, 1380C
• Avg speed of m/c 20-40m/min
• Min. Speed of m/c 10-12m/min
• Max. Speed of m/c 40-50m/ min
• Length of machine 25.84m
• Width of machine 2.30m
• Type of blanket rubber blanket
• Length of blanket 16m
• Width of blanket 64inch
• Thickness of blanket 1mm
• Type of squeezee magnetic squeezee
• Drying medium hot air produced
By circulation of
Hot air over the
Pipes containing
Heated oil
Brief description of the m/c
Feed zone
Fabric passes over batch roll through guide rollers, there are two brass rollers followed two
suction to remove the floating fibres and dust on fabric surface
Printing zone
There is an endless rotating rubber conveyer in this zone. At first fabric is pasted with the
rubber conveyer by the pressure roller with the help of PVA then the fabric comes under the
printing roller through which the print paste is applied the pressure of the printing roller can
be adjusted by changing rod inside it. A single colour is applied by one printing roller
generally darker colour containing rollers are arranged gradually from back to front. Different
coloured print pastes are applied by different square shaped hollow and perforated rods
(squeeze) by individual pumps. The rubber conveyer is cleaned by water and doctor blade
under the machine.length of the fabric in this zone is 23 feets.fabric after printing zone enter
drying zone.
Drying zone
There are five chambers in this zone containing five radiators. Hot oil is circulated through
the radiators and the blowers circulate the hot air. For pigment printing drying temp. is around
160 deg and for discharge printing it is around 140deg.generally the temp. of first two
chambers is kept lower than the subsequent chambers. Fabric after drying goes to delivery
zone.
Delivery zone
Fabric coming from drying zone passes through guide rollers and is lapper into the trolley.
Factors to be checked at the time of printing :-
• The design printed on the fabric coming out from the printing bed is checked carefully.
• Distortion of the design occurs mainly due to chocking of the printing rollers or due to the
floating fibres attached with the printing rollers.
• Sponge wetted with water to avoid chocking is used to wash printing rollers
• Again a dummy roller is fitted at the beginning of the printing bed the surface of which is
coated by gum. When fabric passes through the surface of this roller it arrests the floating
fibres attached to the fabric
• For a broad design it is checked whether the fabric coming out from the delivery zone is
properly dried or not. Temperature of the drying chambers are increased if necessary.
• The level of the color in the PVC container is checked. It is also checked whether colors
are coming out from the squeeze properly.
• The cleaning system of the rubber conveyer under the printing bed and the PVC
application to it is also checked.
Curing & Steaming Section
Continous ager (steaming m/c.)
• Name of the m/c continous ager m/c
• Maker name gayatri m/c
• Thread length 200 m
15 m/min (normal)
6-8 m/min (min.)
50 m/min (max.)
• Drying system steaming
• Steaming time 8-2 min.
• Temperature of m/c 101º c for discharge
150-180º c for pigment
• Pressure of steam at feed 18-20 kg./cm sq
• Roof heating system by hot oil
Defects :
• Tearing of the fabric inside the m/c.
• Dropping of water droplets on the fabric. This occurs if roof temp. Is inadequate or steam
contains water molecules.
• Insufficient development. This occurs amount of safolite in the print paste is low, level of
water in tank is low or amount of steam is sufficient.
Loop Ager
Name of the m/c loop ager
Machine make Swastik textile Engineers pvt. Ltd.
Machine speed 15 m/min(normal) 1-2 m/min (min.) 30 m/min(max.)
Steaming time 6-15 min.
Temp. with in the m/c 101º c for discharge
Roof heating system steam
No. of exhaust 2
No. of loops formed inside the m/c 30
Brief description of the m/c
In this m/c the feed and delivery is located on different sides of the m/c. Fabric loop is formed
at the feed by a loop former situated at the feed. The fabric inside the m/c is moved by means
of guide bars. Since the fabric is in loop from so the length of the fabric and hence steaming
time is more roof is steam heated to avoid droppings. Water tanks are there at the right hand
side of the m/c water is heated by hot oil to produce steam. Discharging agent present in the
print paste forms a fume inside the m/c with help of saturated steam, which actually develops
the color on the fabric surface channels of exhaust system are located inside the m/c to avoid
droplets loop length and speed of the m/c is adjusted according to the nature of the fabric and
the nature of design.
Special features of the m/c :
• As the fabric passes inside the m/c in loop form, more steaming time is available.
• Loop length inside the m/c can be varied so developing time can also be varied
according to the nature of the fabric and nature of design.
Defects :
• Tearing of the fabric inside the m/c.
• Dropping of water droplets on the fabric. This occurs if roof temp. Is not proper,
steam contains water particles.
• Insufficient developing. This occurs if amount of safolite in the printing paste is low,
level of water in tank is low or amount of steam is sufficient.
• Discharging of the base color at undesirable places. This occurs due to the following
causes
• Safolite causes fumes of sulphur dioxide, which mixed with the steam and forms
fumes of sulphurous and sulphuric acid. These fumes damage the base color and
also the cellulose.
• If two neighboring loops touch each other side and if discharging agent of one loop
discharges the base solor of neighboring loops at undesirable places, patchy marks
appear in the fabric causing damage.
Washing Zone
Printed fabric is washed either in the continuous washing range or open width print washer.
Georgette or moscrepe fabric are washed in the width in the winch machine since the wet
strength of these are very low.
Stenter:-
Specification:-
Manufacturer Ramson
Process type continuous
Speed 50 m/min
Heating arrangement direct steam supply
Form of feeding open width form
Process
Fabric is feeded to the m/c from feeding end and it passes through a rubber blanket running
in contact with hot shoe. Then it enters over a blanket running over a metal drum. Various
parameters of m/c setting are given below:
(a) main steam pressure 6kg/cm2
(b) drum rubber belt 2.5kg/cm2
(c) palmer 2kg/cm2
(d)speed of m/c 50m/min
Fabric is collected in trolley or batch after passing through m/c.
TECHNOLOGIES USED
Used for
Name of Machine Make Country of origin Process
Prasanth Sectional
Sectional Warping M/c India
Gammatex Warping
Printing Screen
Rotary Screen Engraver Luescher Germany
Engraving
A brief description of the Sarla Fabric Pvt. Ltd., Ghaziabad has been given in the report.
Studies of the various processes performed in the plant for the manufacture of RFD fabric,
dyed and printed fabric has been done to the optimum level. A brief account of the various
quality measures taken in the plant has also been given. Various parameters maintained in
the plant are also mentioned. Wherever possible, aid of the flow diagrams has also been
taken. We have put in our best for the compilation of this report.
REFERENCES
www.tradeget.com
www.bharattextile.com
www.marketresearch.com
www.indialine.com